SILICONE-FREE COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS

Abstract

SILICONE-FREE COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS This disclosure relates to compositions including squalene, at least one bio-based branched hydrocarbon, at least one bio-based pentaerythrityl ester, and processes for using such compositions. The cosmetic composition is silicone-free. The cosmetic composition spreads easily and has favorable sensory properties without the use of silicones. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: SILICONE-FREE COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[0001] This disclosure generally relates to a cosmetic composition and methods of using cosmetic compositions. More specifically, this disclosure relates to compositions containing a mixture of emollients that contributes to a sensory texture comparable to the structure of compositions containing silicones. CONTEXT OF THE INVENTION

[0002] A variety of compositions, particularly cosmetic compositions, have been developed to allow easy and comfortable application to a targeted substrate. These compositions include one or more active ingredients that have demonstrated biological efficacy against skin aging.

[0003] However, in addition to the benefits of these products on the skin, consumers also seek a pleasant sensory experience during and / or after application. Therefore, these products traditionally contain silicone compounds. Silicones are well known in cosmetic products for providing a smooth application with minimal drag, a soft final feel, minimal greasiness, and no stickiness. All of these characteristics are desirable in the products.

[0004] However, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, that is to say, whose design and development take environmental issues into account, is becoming a major concern to help meet global challenges.

[0005] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions and / or preparation processes and / or ingredients to meet these environmental challenges.

[0006] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or with a good index of naturalness and / or of natural origin and more particularly, of plant origin while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.

[0007] There is therefore, in particular, a need for new skincare compositions having a sensoriality comparable to existing skincare compositions, while being free of silicone compounds.

[0008] In particular, there is a need for skincare compositions free of silicone compounds that have a sensory experience comparable to existing skincare compositions at the time of application, as well as a pleasant sensation after application. BRIEF SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

[0009] This summary is provided to present a selection of concepts in a simplified form, which are described in greater detail below in the detailed description of the invention. This summary is not intended to identify key features of the claimed subject matter, nor to be used as an aid in determining the scope of the claimed subject matter.

[0010] Indeed, the inventors have discovered, surprisingly, that the specific combination of squalene, a bio-based branched hydrocarbon, and a bio-based pentaerythrityl ester in specific proportions resolves the aforementioned technical problems. This combination advantageously eliminates silicone compounds without altering the sensory qualities of the composition, both during and after application.

[0011] These compositions also include sustainable ingredients, which helps to address environmental challenges.

[0012] Cosmetic compositions typically include: a. squalene b. at least one bio-based branched hydrocarbon; c. at least one bio-based pentaerythrityl ester; and

[0013] in which the cosmetic composition is substantially free of silicone.

[0014] Such a composition according to the present disclosure may be in the form of emulsions, dispersions, gels, balms, and sticks. In some embodiments, the cosmetic compositions are in the form of a gel.

[0015] In some embodiments, squalene is present from approximately 0.1 to approximately 20% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, squalene is present from approximately 0.15 to approximately 18% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

[0016] In one or more embodiments, at least one bio-based branched alkane is selected from the group consisting of a C9-12 alkane, a C15-19 alkane, a C15-23 alkane, branched isomers of undecane, branched isomers of tridecane, and mixtures thereof. In some embodiments, the at least one bio-based branched alkane is present from approximately 0.1% to approximately 20% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the at least one bio-based branched alkane is present from approximately 0.5% to approximately 18% by weight based on the weight of the composition.

[0017] In some embodiments, at least one bio-based pentaerythrityl ester is chosen from the group consisting of pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; Dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate / hexacaprate; pentaerythrityl distearate; dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl isostearate / caprate / caprylate / adipate; pentaerythrityl tetrabehenate; pentaerythrityl tetralaurate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate and mixtures thereof. In one or more embodiments, at least one bio-based pentaerythrityl ester is present from approximately 0.1 to approximately 20% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, at least one bio-based pentaerythrityl ester is present from approximately 0.15 to approximately 18% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

[0018] In some embodiments, the cosmetic compositions are free of silicones.

[0019] In one or more embodiments, cosmetic compositions may include water.

[0020] In one or more embodiments, the cosmetic compositions may include one or more additional components selected from the group consisting of active ingredients selected from humectant, antimicrobial, antioxidant, preservative, vitamin, vitamin derivative, UV filter, plant extract; and dye / pigment, filler, thickener, polymer, penetrant, perfume, dispersant, film-forming agent; ceramide; opacifier and their combinations.

[0021] In various embodiments, the cosmetic compositions may include one or more active ingredients selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, disodium EDTA, sodium citrate, sodium hyaluronate, capryloyl salicylic acid, lactic acid, methyl dihydro jasmonate, acetyl trifluoromethyl phenyl valyglycine, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxycinnamate, n-hydroxysuccinimide, palmitoyl oligopeptide, chrysin, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, yeast extract, citric acid and their combinations.

[0022] In certain embodiments, the compositions may include one or more active ingredients selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, disodium EDTA, sodium citrate, sodium hyaluronate, capryloyl salicylic acid, lactic acid, methyl dihydro jasmonate, acetyl trifluoromethyl phenyl valyglycine, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxycinnamate, n-hydroxysuccinimide, palmitoyl oligopeptide, chrysin, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, yeast extract, citric acid and their combinations.

[0023] In accordance with another aspect of the disclosure, the cosmetic composition may include: a. of about 0.1 to about 20% by weight of squalene; b. of approximately 0.1 to approximately 20% by weight of at least one branched hydrocarbon bio-based; c. approximately 0.1 to approximately 20% by weight of at least one bio-based pentaerythrityl ester; and

[0024] in which the cosmetic composition is substantially free of silicone.

[0025] Cosmetic compositions are useful for treating skin, for example, the skin of a human face and neck. Thus, this disclosure relates to skin treatment methods comprising the application of the cosmetic composition of this disclosure to the skin. Cosmetic compositions are also useful in methods for treating dry skin, repairing skin damage due to photoaging, and reducing the appearance of wrinkles, age spots, and uneven skin texture. The aforementioned methods may be non-therapeutic.

[0026] Other features and advantages of the present invention will become apparent from the following more detailed description, taken together with the accompanying drawings which illustrate, by way of example, the principles of the invention.

[0027] This disclosure describes examples of embodiments according to general inventive concepts and is not intended to limit the scope of the invention in any way. Indeed, the invention as described herein is broader than, and not limited by, the examples of embodiments presented herein, and the terms used herein have their full ordinary meaning. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0028] “Cosmetically acceptable” means compatible with any keratinous substrate. For example, a "cosmetically acceptable vector" refers to a vector compatible with any keratinous substrate.

[0029] “At least one”, as used herein, means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.

[0030] By "substantially silicone-free", as used herein, is meant that the composition comprises less than 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 1% by weight of silicone. Preferably, the composition is completely silicone-free. Silicone is understood to mean any silicone compound.

[0031] By “bio-based”, as used here, means that the RM is composed of at least 50% by molecular weight of renewable carbons or recycled raw materials / by-products.

[0032] The transitional terms “comprising”, “consisting essentially of” and “consisting of”, when used in the appended claims, in their original and amended form, define the scope of the claims with respect to This concerns any additional elements or steps not mentioned, if any, which are excluded from the scope of the claim(s). The term "comprising" is intended to be inclusive or broad and does not exclude any additional element, process, step, or material not mentioned. The term "consisting of" excludes any element, step, or material other than those specified in the claims and, in the latter case, impurities ordinarily associated with the specified material(s). The expression "consisting essentially of" limits the scope of a claim to the specified elements, steps, or material(s) and to those that do not materially affect the fundamental and innovative feature(s) of the claimed invention.All the processes and materials described herein that incorporate the present invention can, in alternative embodiments, be defined more specifically by any one of the transitional terms "comprising", "consisting essentially of" and "consisting of".

[0033] Apart from the operational examples, or unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and / or reaction conditions should be understood as being modified in all cases by the term "about", meaning to within 10% of the number indicated (for example, "about 10%" means 9% to 11% and "about 2%" means 1.8% to 2.2%).

[0034] All percentages and ratios are calculated by weight unless otherwise stated. All percentages are calculated on the basis of the total composition unless otherwise stated. In general, unless expressly stated otherwise herein, "weight" or "quantity" as used herein with respect to the percentage of an ingredient refers to the quantity of raw material comprising the ingredient, the raw material being described herein as comprising less than and up to 100% of the ingredient's activity. Therefore, the percentage by weight of an active ingredient in a composition is represented as the quantity of raw material containing the active ingredient that is used and may or may not reflect the final percentage of the active ingredient, the final percentage of the active ingredient depending on the percentage by weight of the active ingredient in the raw material.

[0035] All ranges and quantities indicated herein are assumed to include subranges and quantities using any disclosed point as a boundary. Thus, a range of "1% to 10%, such as 2% to 8%, such as 3% to 5%" is assumed to encompass ranges of "1% to 8%", "1% to 5%", "2% to 10%", and so on. All numbers, quantities, ranges, etc., are assumed to be modified by the term "approximately", whether or not it is expressly stated. Similarly, a given range of "approximately 1% to 10%" is assumed to have its boundaries of both 1% and 10% modified by the term "approximately". Furthermore, it is understood that when a quantity of a component is Given, it is supposed to indicate the quantity of active ingredient, unless otherwise specifically stated.

[0036] Although the numerical ranges and parameters presenting the general scope of the disclosure are approximations, unless otherwise indicated, the numerical values ​​presented in the specific examples are reported as accurately as possible. However, every numerical value inherently contains some errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation observed in their respective test measurements. The following example serves to illustrate embodiments of this disclosure but is not intended to be exhaustive.

[0037] This disclosure relates to cosmetic compositions containing a specific combination of squalene, a bio-based branched hydrocarbon, and a bio-based pentaerythrityl ester in specific proportions. This combination advantageously eliminates silicone compounds without altering the sensory qualities of the composition, both during and after application.

[0038] The cosmetic compositions of this disclosure typically include: a. squalene b. at least one bio-based branched hydrocarbon; c. at least one bio-based pentaerythrityl ester; and

[0039] in which the cosmetic composition is substantially free of silicone.

[0040] Cosmetic compositions are generally formulated in the form of emulsions, dispersions, or gels. In some embodiments, cosmetic compositions are in the form of a gel.

[0041] As mentioned above, the specific combination of squalene, at least one bio-based branched hydrocarbon and at least one bio-based pentaerythrityl ester is thought to have a sensory property comparable to cosmetic compositions containing silicones.

[0042] Suitable components, such as those listed below, may be included or excluded from formulations for cosmetic compositions depending on the specific combination of other components, the form of the cosmetic compositions and / or the use of the formulation (e.g., a lotion, a serum, a gel, a cream, etc.). Squalane

[0043] The cosmetic compositions include squalene.

[0044] Squalane (C30H62, chemical name 2,6,10,15,19,23-hexamethyltetracosane) is a saturated hydrocarbon composed of a chain of 30 saturated carbon atoms with the following formula:

[0045] [Chim. 1]

[0046] It is obtained by hydrogenation of squalene (C30H50). Originally, squalene was extracted from shark liver oil. Squalane, due to its saturated chemical structure, is much more stable than squalene, which peroxidizes very easily.

[0047] The squalane used in the invention is preferably of vegetable origin. Preferably, the squalane is derived from vegetable oils, preferably olive oil, wheat germ oil, bran oil, rice oil or olive starches.

[0048] Preferably, in the present invention, squalane is extracted from olive oil.

[0049] For example, the product marketed under the name Neossance Squalane by Amyris will be used.

[0050] Squalene is typically present in the cosmetic composition in an amount of approximately 0.1% by weight to approximately 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. For example, cosmetic compositions may include an amount of squalene ranging from 0.1% by weight to approximately 20% by weight, approximately 0.15% by weight to approximately 20% by weight, approximately 0.2% by weight to approximately 20% by weight, approximately 0.25% by weight to approximately 20% by weight, approximately 0.3% by weight to approximately 19% by weight, approximately 0.4% by weight to approximately 19% by weight, approximately 0.5% by weight to approximately 18% by weight, or approximately 1% by weight to approximately 15% by weight, including intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.In addition, or alternatively, the amount of squalene may be from 0.1% by weight to 20% by weight, from 0.2% by weight to 20% by weight, from 0.3% by weight to 20% by weight, from 0.35% by weight to 20% by weight, from 0.35% by weight to 15% by weight, from 0.5% by weight to 14% by weight, from 0.6% by weight to 14% by weight, or from 0.8% by weight to 12% by weight, including intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, based on the total weight of the composition.Similarly, in certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition may include an amount of squalene that is approximately 20% by weight, approximately 19% by weight, approximately 18% by weight, approximately 17% by weight, approximately 16% by weight, approximately 15% by weight, approximately 14% by weight, approximately 13% by weight, approximately 12% by weight, approximately 11% by weight, approximately 10% by weight, approximately 9% by weight, approximately 8% by weight, approximately 7% by weight, approximately 6% by weight, approximately 5% by weight, approximately 4% by weight, approximately 3% by weight, approximately 2% by weight, approximately 1% by weight, approximately 0.5% by weight, or approximately 0.1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition cosmetics. In one embodiment, the quantity of squalene may be 2% or approximately 2% of the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Bio-based branched hydrocarbon

[0051] The cosmetic composition according to this disclosure may include a mixture of branched alkanes having from 9 to 19 carbon atoms.

[0052] As an example of alkanes suitable for the invention, one can cite mixtures of alkanes having 15 to 19 carbon atoms having a molecular weight between 200 g / mol and 250 g / mol.

[0053] Preferably, the alkanes are branched.

[0054] Preferably, the alkanes are of vegetable origin.

[0055] Preferably, a mixture comprising 95 to 99% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture, of C15-C19 branched alkanes, and 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture, of C12-C14 and C20-C26 alkanes. Such a mixture preferably has a molecular weight of about 216 g / mol. Such a mixture is marketed by Seppic under the reference Emogreen L15.

[0056] Alternatively, preferably, a mixture comprising 95 to 99% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture of C15-C19 branched alkanes, and 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture of C12-C14 and C20-C26 alkanes. Such a mixture preferably has a molecular weight of about 248 g / mol. Such a mixture is marketed by Seppic under the reference Emogreen L19.

[0057] Alternatively, preferably, a mixture comprising 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture, of C15-C19 branched alkanes, and 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture, of C12-C14 and C20-C26 alkanes. Such a mixture is marketed by Seppic under the reference Emosmart L19.

[0058] The cosmetic composition includes a bio-based branched hydrocarbon typically in an amount of about 0.1% by weight to about 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In some cases, the amount of bio-based branched hydrocarbon present in the cosmetic composition may be from about 0.1% by weight to about 20% by weight, from about 0.15% by weight to about 20% by weight, from about 0.2% by weight to about 20% by weight, from about 0.25% by weight to about 20% by weight, from about 0.3% by weight to about 19% by weight, from about 0.4% by weight to about 19% by weight, from about 0.5% by weight to about 18% by weight, or from about 1% by weight to about 15% by weight, including intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0059] In one embodiment, the amount of bio-based branched hydrocarbon may be 1% or about 1% of the total weight of the cosmetic composition. bio-based pentaerythrityl ester

[0060] The cosmetic composition according to this disclosure may include at least one or more bio-based pentaerythrityl esters.

[0061] Esters of pentaerythritol and mono- or di-fatty acids, in C6-C22, such as the mixture of ester of pentaerythritol and isostearic, capric, caprylic and adipic acids (Croda Supermol-L).

[0062] Polyesters comprising at least three ester functions, mono- or polycarboxylic acids, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, linear, branched or cyclic, optionally hydroxylated, in C4-C40 and respectively polyols or monoalcohols in C2-C40, preferably in C3-C40; said polyester optionally comprising at least one free hydroxyl.

[0063] For example, we can cite oils comprising three ester functions, the acid comprising three monohydroxylated carboxylic functions and the C2-C4 monoalcohol.

[0064] For example, linear fatty acid esters with a total carbon index ranging from 35 to 70, such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate (MW = 697 g / mol), may be cited.

[0065] Also suitable are fatty alcohol esters or branched fatty acids, such as pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate (MW=697 g / mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (MW=1202 g / mol), polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate (MW=1232 g / mol), and also those described in EP-A-0 955 039, such as pentaerythrityl tetradecyl-2-tetradecanoate (MW=1538 g / mol).

[0066] By way of example of a bio-based pentaerythrityl ester suitable for the invention, one may mention pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate / hexacaprate; pentaerythrityl distearate; dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl isostearate / caprate / caprylate / adipate; pentaerythrityl tetrabehenate; pentaerythrityl tetralaurate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate and mixtures thereof.

[0067] The bio-based pentaerythrityl ester that may be mentioned includes pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, such as the commercial product sold under the trade name CRODAMOL PTIS-LQ-(MV) by Croda or JOLEE 7181 by Oleon or PAESTER PETIS and PAESTER PETIS / MB by Patech Fine Chemicals; dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate / hexacaprate, such as the commercial product sold under the trade name DUB DPHCC or DUB DPHCC MB by Stearinerie Dubois, pentaerythrityl distearate, such as the commercial product sold under the trade name CUTINA PES by BASF, dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate, such as the commercial product sold under the trade name COSMOL 168 EV or SALACOS 168 EV by Nisshin Oillio; pentaerythrityl isostearate / caprate / caprylate / adipate, such as the commercial product sold under the trade name SP SUPERMOL L MBAL-LQ-(RB) or SUPERMOL L-LQ-(RB) by Croda.

[0068] In some embodiments, at least one bio-based pentaerythrityl ester is present from about 0.1 to about 20% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In one or more embodiments, at least one bio-based pentaerythrityl ester is present from approximately 0.15 to approximately 18% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0069] The cosmetic composition includes bio-based pentaerythrityl ester typically in an amount of about 0.1% by weight to about 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In some cases, the amount of bio-based pentaerythrityl ester present in the cosmetic composition may be from about 0.1% by weight to about 20% by weight, from about 0.15% by weight to about 20% by weight, from about 0.2% by weight to about 20% by weight, from about 0.25% by weight to about 20% by weight, from about 0.3% by weight to about 19% by weight, from about 0.4% by weight to about 19% by weight, from about 0.5% by weight to about 18% by weight, or from about 1% by weight to about 15% by weight, including intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0070] In one embodiment, the amount of bio-based pentaerythrityl ester may be 1% or about 1% of the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0071] The cosmetic composition includes a bio-based branched hydrocarbon typically in an amount of about 0.1% by weight to about 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In some cases, the amount of bio-based branched hydrocarbon present in the cosmetic composition may be from about 0.1% by weight to about 20% by weight, from about 0.15% by weight to about 20% by weight, from about 0.2% by weight to about 20% by weight, from about 0.25% by weight to about 20% by weight, from about 0.3% by weight to about 19% by weight, from about 0.4% by weight to about 19% by weight, from about 0.5% by weight to about 18% by weight, or from about 1% by weight to about 15% by weight, including intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0072] In one embodiment, the amount of bio-based branched hydrocarbon may be 0.8% or about 0.8% of the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Cosmetically acceptable vector system

[0073] The cosmetic compositions include a cosmetically acceptable carrier system. The term "cosmetically acceptable" means a carrier that is compatible with any keratinous substrate, and for this purpose includes water and optionally water-based solvents, subject to any exclusions as disclosed herein.

[0074] Cosmetic compositions may include any constituent normally used in the intended topical application and administration. These may include, in particular, water, solvents, fatty compounds (namely those described by the International Federation of Cosmetic Chemistry Societies, for example, in Cosmetic Raw Material Analysis and Quality Volume I: Hydrocarbons, Glycerides, Waxes and Other Esters (Redwood Books, 1994), polyols, pigments, fillers, silicones, surfactants, thickeners, gelling agents, preservatives and mixtures thereof in all proportions. Organic solvent

[0075] According to the disclosure, one or more organic solvents are present in the composition. The organic solvent present in the cosmetic composition, according to the disclosure, includes, but is not limited to, butylene glycol, a C12-15 alkyl benzoate, glycerin, propylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, or combinations thereof. Although these solvents are given by way of example, it would be appreciated if other solvents compatible with cosmetic applications known in the art could be used.

[0076] According to the various embodiments, the organic solvent may be present in a given composition in an amount from approximately 10% to approximately 30%, alternatively from approximately 12% to approximately 28%, alternatively from approximately 15% to approximately 25%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range of these values ​​by weight, based on the weight of the composition. However, a person skilled in the art will appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention. Water

[0077] According to the various embodiments, water may be present in a given composition in an amount from approximately 2% to approximately 90%, from approximately 3% to approximately 90%, from approximately 5% to approximately 85%, from approximately 10% to approximately 80%, alternatively from approximately 15% to approximately 75%, alternatively from approximately 20% to approximately 70%, alternatively from approximately 30% to approximately 65%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range of these values ​​by weight, based on the weight of the composition. However, a person skilled in the art will appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention. Polymeric thickener

[0078] According to the various embodiments, the composition may include one or more polymeric thickeners. In some embodiments, the one or more thickeners may be selected from one or more natural gums and synthetic polymers; for example, the thickener may be selected from the group consisting of starches (maize, rice, tapioca, potato), gums (xanthan gum, carrageenan, gellan gum, sclerotium, tarabiotech fermentation). In some particular embodiments, the thickener may be selected from the crosslinked acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate polymer, carbomer, xanthan gum, hydroxypropyl guar gum, ceratonia siliqua (carob) gum, ammonium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate, the crosslinked polymer ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-25 methacrylate and polyacrylate-6 crosslinked polymer.

[0079] In some embodiments, the polymeric thickener may be one of a carbomer, a C10-30 acrylate / alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, a polyacrylate-6 crosslinked polymer, microcrystalline cellulose (and) cellulose gum, xanthan gum, sodium carboxymethyl starch, sclerotium gum (and) xanthan gum, xanthan gum (and) ceratonia siliqua (carob) gum (50 / 50), dehydroxanthan gum, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, sclerotium gum (and) xanthan gum (75 / 25), sclerotium gum, xanthan gum (and) lecithin (and) pullulan, or combinations thereof.

[0080] In some embodiments, the composition may comprise two or more polymeric thickeners. The amount of each of the at least one polymeric thickener, if any, may be present in the cosmetic composition in a range of approximately 0.01% to approximately 2%, or approximately 0.01% to approximately 1.5%, or approximately 0.3% to approximately 1.2%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range, or subrange of these values ​​by weight, based on the weight of the composition. However, those skilled in the art will appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.

[0081] In certain embodiments, the total amount of polymeric thickener in the cosmetic composition, if any, is present from approximately 0.01% to approximately 5%, or from approximately 0.02% to approximately 2%, or from approximately 0.03% to approximately 1.5%, or from approximately 0.1% to approximately 0.2%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range, or subrange of these values ​​by weight, based on the weight of the composition. However, those skilled in the art will appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.

[0082] Thus, one or more polymeric thickeners, as appropriate, are present by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of approximately 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2.0, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4, 2.5, 2.6, 2.7, 2.8, 2.9, 3.0, 3.5, 4.0, 4.5 to approximately 5.0 percent, including intermediate increments and ranges. Optional active compounds

[0083] According to the disclosure, embodiments of the cosmetic composition may include one or more additional compounds selected from among the active compounds, in particular keratinous tissue actives, such as, but not limited to, skin actives. In some embodiments, optional active compounds may be selected from the group consisting of: vitamins, for example, vitamin E, camosin, hyaluronic acid, panthenol, at least one filter solar, at least one hydroxy acid, and their combinations. In some embodiments, an active compound is selected from the group consisting of alpha-, beta-, or polyhydroxy acids chosen from the group consisting of lactic acid, glycolic acid, salicylic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, mandelic acid, lactobionic acid, gluconolactone, galactose, and their combinations. To avoid ambiguity, the cosmetic composition may include one or more of any of the optional active compounds. For example, the cosmetic composition may include one or more of a hydroxy acid, one or more of a vitamin, and the like.

[0084] Vitamin E can be selected from the group consisting of alpha-tocopherol, beta-tocopherol, delta-tocopherol, gamma-tocopherol, and alpha-tocotrienol, beta-tocotrienol, delta-tocotrienol, gamma-tocotrienol, and their derivatives. Salts or derivatives of tocopherols include pharmaceutically acceptable compounds such as acetate, sulfate, succinate, nicotinate, palmitate, allophanate, phosphate, quinone, or halogenated derivatives, esters, or stereoisomers, for example. The invention encompasses the use of vitamin E derivatives in which substitutions, additions, and other modifications have been made in the 6-chromanol ring and / or the side chain, provided that the derivatives maintain the antioxidant activity of vitamin E.Additional tocopherols can be constructed by conjugating various other fractions, such as those containing oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and / or phosphorus, to the ring structure or side chain. Tocopherol derivatives can also be made by altering the side chain length compared to that found in tocopherols such as alpha-, beta-, delta-, and gamma-tocopherol. Tocopherols can also vary in stereochemistry and bond saturation in the ring structure and side chain. Additional tocopherol derivatives, including prodrugs, can be obtained by conjugating sugars or other fractions to the side chain or ring structure.Tocopherols include, but are not limited to, stereoisomers (e.g., + and - stereoisomers of alpha-tocopherol; (+ / -) indicates a racemic mixture) or mixtures of structurally distinct tocopherols (e.g., alpha-plus gamma-tocopherol). Tocopherols can be obtained from Roche, Nutley, NJ, for example.

[0085] In some embodiments, additional active ingredients may also include at least one hydroxy acid selected from alpha-, beta-, or polyhydroxy acids. Thus, in various embodiments, a hydroxy acid may be selected from the group consisting of lactic acid, glycolic acid, salicylic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, mandelic acid, lactobionic acid, gluconolactone, galactose, and combinations thereof.

[0086] In some embodiments, additional active ingredients may also include one or more of the antioxidants selected from the group consisting of mangiferin, baicalin, resveratrol, tannic acid, polyphenols, amino acids and their derivatives, imidazoles, carnosine derivatives, carotenoids, carotenes (such as α-carotene, [3-carotene and lycopene), vitamin A, coenzyme Q10, bioflavonoids, glutathione, plant extracts (such as rosemary extract, olive leaf extracts), green tea extracts, and combinations thereof.

[0087] In certain particular embodiments, the cosmetic composition includes a combination of active compounds present in the cosmetic composition comprising a hydroxy acid, tocopherol, panthenol, hyaluronic acid or one of their combinations.

[0088] In general, each of the optional active compounds is present in the cosmetic composition in an amount of about 0.1% to about 30%, and in some embodiments, about 0.5% to about 30%, and in some embodiments, about 0.5% to about 15%, and in some embodiments, about 0.1% to about 1%, and in some embodiments, about 1% to about 2%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range of these values ​​by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0089] Vitamin E and its derivatives, including, but not limited to, tocopherol, may be present in the cosmetic composition in an amount of about 0.5% to about 2%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.5% to about 1%, and in some embodiments, from about 1% to about 2.0%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range of these values ​​by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0090] One or more of hyaluronic acid, panthenol and carnosine may be present in the cosmetic composition in an amount of about 0.1% to about 5%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.1% to about 3%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.5% to about 1.0%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range of these values ​​by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0091] Hyaluronic acid may be present in the cosmetic composition in an amount of about 0.01% to about 1%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.01% to about 0.1%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.05% to about 0.07%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range of these values ​​by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0092] Panthenol may be present in the cosmetic composition in an amount of approximately 0.1% to approximately 1%, and in some embodiments, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 0.5%, and in some embodiments, from approximately 0.2% to approximately 0.4%. %, and in certain embodiments, from about 0.2% to about 0.25%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range of these values ​​by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0093] A hydroxy acid may be present in the cosmetic composition in an amount of about 0.25% to about 10%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.5% to about 8%, and in some embodiments, from about 1% to about 5%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.25% to about 0.5%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range of these values ​​by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0094] Carnosine may be present in the cosmetic composition in an amount of about 0.10% to about 1%, and in some embodiments, about 0.20% to about 0.5%, and in some embodiments, about 0.20% to about 0.25%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range of these values ​​by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0095] Thus, in various embodiments, the optional active compounds, if any, are present in a cosmetic composition according to the disclosure, and each of the individual components in the ranges as described above, of approximately 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0.80, 0.90, 1.0, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28 at approximately 30 percent by weight, including increments and intermediate ranges. Optional additives

[0096] The compositions may also include at least one additive used in the cosmetic field that does not affect the properties of the compositions according to the invention, such as emulsifiers, emollients, perfumes, pH adjusters (citric acid, sodium chloride; neutralizing agents or pH adjusters (e.g., triethanolamine (TEA) and sodium hydroxide), and combinations thereof), other cosmetically acceptable additives, such as, but not limited to, pearlescent agents, silica, and coloring agents; essential oils; fruit extracts, for example, Pyrus Malus (apple) fruit extract and Aloe Barbadensis leaf juice powder. Although the optional additives are given by way of example, it would be appreciated if other optional components compatible with known cosmetic applications could be used.

[0097] According to the various embodiments, the quantity of one or more additives, alone or in combination, present in the cosmetic composition may be present in the cosmetic composition, according to the disclosure, in a range of approximately 0.001% to approximately 20%, by weight, from approximately 0.005% to approximately 0.01%, or from approximately 0.01% to approximately 0.1%, or from approximately 0.15% to approximately 5%, or from approximately 0.40% to approximately 4%. %, or about 0.5% to about 2.5% by weight, or about 1% to about 2%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range of these values ​​by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0098] Thus, any one or combination of additives may be present, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, each or the combination being present in approximately 0.001, 0.002, 0.003, 0.004, 0.005, 0.006, 0.007, 0.008, 0.009, 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0.80, 0.90, 1.0, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 at approximately 20 percent, by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition, including increments and intermediate ranges.

[0099] Although the optional additives are given by way of example, it will be appreciated if other suitable optional components compatible with known cosmetic applications may be used. It will be appreciated by a qualified person that all optional additives are present only to the extent and in quantities that do not materially and negatively affect the fundamental and innovative feature(s) of the claimed disclosure. Thus, in certain embodiments that include optional additives, these optional additives will not materially and negatively affect the solubility of the skin actives in the cosmetic composition. Thus, in certain embodiments that include optional additives, these optional additives will not materially and negatively affect the cosmetic cleansing composition forming a monophasic solution.

[0100] In certain particular embodiments, the cosmetic composition may include optional additives, for example, one or more of phenoxyethanol, terephthalylidene diamphrulfonic acid, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, sodium citrate, sodium chloride, sodium hydroxyacetophenone benzoate, potassium sorbate, citric acid, caprylyl glycol, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, or combinations thereof. In some embodiments, phenoxyethanol is present as a preservative in the cosmetic composition in a range of approximately 0.5% to approximately 2%, and in some embodiments in a range of approximately 1% to approximately 2%.

[0101] According to the various embodiments, the quantity of one or more active ingredients and additives, alone or in combination, when present in the cosmetic composition according to the disclosure, may be present in a range of approximately 0.001% to approximately 20%, and in some embodiments, from approximately 0.05% to approximately 0.01%, and in some embodiments, from approximately 0.01% to approximately 0.1%, and in some embodiments, from approximately 0.15% to approximately 5%, and in some embodiments, from approximately 0.40% to approximately 4%, and in some embodiments, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 2.5%, and in some embodiments, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 0.5%, and in some embodiments, from approximately 1% to approximately 2%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range of these values ​​by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. However, those skilled in the art will appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.

[0102] Thus, any one or a combination of active ingredients and additives may be present, each or the combination being present in approximately 0.001, 0.005, 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0.80, 0.90, 1.0, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 at approximately 20 percent, by weight, including increments and intermediate ranges.

[0103] The following examples are intended to further illustrate the present invention. They are not intended to limit the invention in any way. Unless otherwise indicated, all parts are by weight. EXAMPLES

[0104] Example 1 - Preparation of the sample composition

[0105] A sample composition shown in the table below can be prepared as follows:

[0106] [Tables 1] FUNCTION INCI NAME Inventive Example Comparative Example Fatty Compound SQUALANE 2.2 Bio-based C15-19 Branched Hydrocarbon ALKANE 1 Bio-based Pentaerythrityl Ester PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRAISOS TEARATE 0.8 WATER QSQS Silicone CAPRYLYL METHICONE 4 Silicone DIMETHICONE 0.2 Polymer ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER 0.15 0.3 Polymer XANTHAN GUM 0.35 0.3 Surfactant POLYGLYCERYL-4 CAPRATE; L AURETH-4 0.9-1.4 0.9-1.4 Preservative PHENOXYETHANOL 0.1-0.5 0.1 - 0.5 Chelating agent: TRISODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMIN E DISUCCINATE <0.15 <0.15 Solvent: BUTYLENE GLYCOL; ALCOHOL DENAT.; PENTYLENE GLYCOL; GLYCERIN 2-15 4 Cutaneous active ingredient: CAFFEINE; CARNOSINE; ARGININE; SODIUM THIOSULFATE; CAPRYLIC SALICYLIC ACID; SODIUM HYALURONATE; HYDROXYACETOPHENONE; NIACINAM AID 0.5 - 20 0.5 - 20 pH adjuster: CITRIC ACID <0.6 <0.5

[0107] Water, the chelating agent(s), preservative(s), and water-miscible solvents (excluding alcohol) are mixed together in a tank of sufficient size for the batch. The polymers are then added to the batch with agitation and homogenization to ensure thorough dispersion. After some time, the batch becomes slightly more viscous and gel-like due to the thickening capacity of the polymers. Next, surfactants and either silicones or bio-based oils are added to the batch with agitation and homogenization. The batch is allowed to homogenize until a dense emulsion is formed. Then, water-soluble actives are added with agitation and homogenization until all the actives are solubilized. Any water-insoluble actives are dissolved in alcohol, if present, and then added to the batch with agitation and homogenization.

[0108] Example 2 - Testing of different emollient mixtures

[0109] In this section, several emollient mixtures were tested and compared. The results for each attribute were rated on a scale of 1 to 5 and tabulated. See Table 2.

[0110] [Table 2]

[0111] Comparison data for emollient mixtures Body Test Action Time Greasy Appearance Comfort Final Sensation 1 Branched Alkane (BA) 1 2 1 2 Squalane (S) 2 4 5 2 4 3 Pentaerythrityl Ester (PE) 5 3 3 5 5 4 BA + S 1 2 4 1 2 5 BA + PE 6 S + PE 4 4 4 4 4 7 BA + S + PE (inventive) 2 5 3 4 4 8 Silicone reference 2 5 2 4 4 Results 1 = light, fluid, liquid 1 = volatile, rapid absorption, short friction 1 = minimal oily appearance 1 = no comfort 1 = dry, vaporous 5 = heavy, thick 5 = persistent, slippery, long friction 5 = oily, shiny 5 = high comfort 5 - neat, silky

[0112] The above examples have demonstrated the difference in terms of sensory properties and spreadability that a mixture of emollients can provide. The objective of the present disclosure was to develop a mixture of emollients with favorable sensory properties and spreadability, similar to those of light and medium silicones, in the same basic formulation.

[0113] Since the chemistry of silicones and the resulting sensory property are quite unique, it is not obvious how to replace these compounds and there is no clear and universal replacement product using carbon-based emollients; therefore, a mixture was sought and developed.

[0114] A mixture of emollients was developed in a particular base by way of example. The base formula was an oil-in-water emulsion serum containing a cross-linked polymer ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER (i.e., Pemulen EZ4U) as a stabilizing polymer, with xanthan gum as a thickener to increase viscosity. It also contained various active ingredients, a penetration enhancer, preservatives, solvents, and an oil phase. In the comparative case (i.e., Comparative Example 1), the oil phase consisted of silicone emollients. In the inventive case (i.e., Inventive Example 1), the oily phase was composed of renewable carbon-based emollients designed to give a sensory property similar to the comparative example that contained the silicone mixture.When selecting carbon-based emollients, several key sensory attributes were tested, including spreadability during application, lightness / volatility, action time, comfort, and post-application feel.

[0115] It is well known in the art that the unique spreading ability and durability of silicones arise from silicone bonds having greater bond rotation / flexibility and from the raw material itself having a lower surface tension than that found in carbon-based emollients. Thus, carbon-based emollients with good spreading ability and low tackiness were needed. Without developing a theory, it is thought that the numerous branching points in the molecules can surprisingly increase spreading ability compared to the corresponding linear (i.e., unbranched) molecule due to packing and molecular forces large enough to make a noticeable difference. Therefore, branched carbon-based emollients were chosen for the study.

[0116] Squalane was chosen for its overall glide and spreadability, with a medium contact time and a smooth texture without excessive oiliness. The molecule has 6 branch points (6 methyl groups at regular intervals) and an intermediate molecular weight. However, the use of squalane alone resulted in a formula that was slightly too oily and not very comfortable, as illustrated in Table X, Test 2.

[0117] Branched renewable hydrocarbons (C9-12 alkane, C15-19 alkane) were chosen for Test 1 because they allowed for rapid dissipation while remaining lightweight. However, it was observed that when used alone, the action time was almost too short; there was

[0118] minimal comfort and the final sensation is too dry with pulling.

[0119] Pentaerythritol is a unique polyol in that it contains 4 -OH groups, each These esters can react with a fatty acid to form a pentaerythrityl ester. Due to the branching within these esters, they have a high molecular weight but remain liquid and spreadable. For example, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate contains four distinct C:18 chains, each with its own branch point. These esters provided a richer sensation with excellent comfort and an increased overall duration of action when blended with lighter volatile emollients. When used alone, as demonstrated in Test 3, the sensory property was too heavy and rich, with a poor duration of action.

[0120] However, when squalane, branched hydrocarbon and pentaterythityl ester were mixed together, as shown in Table 2, Test 7, the mixture demonstrated the balance of important sensory attributes needed to replace silicones.

[0121] Surprisingly, the blend of emollients based on renewable carbon exhibited similar positive sensory attributes to the silicone-containing formula, with a low stickiness even in the presence of high levels (>10%) of active ingredients and glycerin. The blend of emollients also resulted in a low-greasy appearance, which is another advantage as carbon-based oils can often be perceived as greasier than silicones.

[0122] Although the disclosure has been described with reference to a preferred embodiment, those skilled in the art will understand that various changes can be made and that equivalents can replace elements without departing from the scope of the invention. Furthermore, numerous modifications can be made to adapt a particular situation or subject matter to the teachings of the invention without departing from its essential scope. Therefore, it is intended that the invention is not limited to the particular embodiment disclosed as being the best envisaged way of carrying out this invention, but that the invention includes all embodiments within the scope of the appended claims.

Claims

Demands

1. Cosmetic composition comprising: a. 0.1 to 20% by weight of squalene; b. 0.1 to 20% by weight of at least one bio-based branched hydrocarbon; c. 0.1 to 20% by weight of at least one bio-based pentaerythrityl ester; and wherein the cosmetic composition is substantially free of silicone; and wherein all percentages by weight are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein at least one bio-based branched alkane is selected from the group selected from a C9-12 alkane, a C15-19 alkane, a C15-23 alkane, branched isomers of undecane, branched isomers of tridecane and mixtures thereof.

3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein at least one bio-based pentaerythrityl ester is selected from the group consisting of pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate / hexacaprate; pentaerythrityl distearate; dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl isostearate / caprate / caprylate / adipate; pentaerythrityl tetrabehenate; pentaerythrityl tetralaurate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate and mixtures thereof.

4.

5. Composition according to claim 1, further comprising water. Composition according to claim 4, wherein the water is present from 2% to 90% based on the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to claim 1, further comprising one or more additional components selected from the group consisting of active ingredients selected from humectant, antimicrobial, antioxidant, preservative, vitamin, vitamin derivative, UV filter, plant extract; and dye / pigment, filler, thickener, polymer, penetrant, perfume, dispersant, film-forming agent; ceramide; opacifier and combinations thereof.

7. Composition according to claim 1, further comprising one or more active ingredients selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, disodium EDTA, sodium citrate, sodium hyaluronate, capryloyl salicylic acid, lactic acid, methyl dihydro jasmonate, acetyl trifluoromethyl phenyl valyglycine, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxycinnamate, n-hydroxysuccinimide, palmitoyl oligopeptide, chrysin, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, yeast extract, citric acid and combinations thereof.

8. A skin treatment method comprising applying a cosmetic composition according to claim 1 to the skin.