Composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials

A composition with polydatin, vitamin B12, and a hydrotrope stabilizes stilbenoids against photoinstability, ensuring their efficacy in cosmetic applications.

FR3158042A3Active Publication Date: 2025-07-11LOREAL SA
View PDF 0 Cites 0 Cited by

Patent Information

Application Number
FR2024001516
Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Utility models
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2024-01-05
Filing Date
2024-02-16
Publication Date
2025-07-11
Estimated Expiration
2034-02-16

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Stilbenoids, such as polydatin, are prone to photoinstability when exposed to sunlight, leading to isomerization and cyclization, which complicates their use in cosmetic products for skin care and makeup.

Method used

A composition comprising polydatin, vitamin B12, and a hydrotrope is formulated to enhance the photostability of stilbenoids, using a small amount of vitamin B12 to stabilize polydatin and other derivatives.

Benefits of technology

The composition effectively improves the photostability of polydatin, maintaining its effectiveness even under sunlight exposure.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.
Patent Text Reader

Abstract

Composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials The present invention relates to a composition, preferably for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising: a) polydatin and / or its derivatives, b) at least 0.0001% by weight of at least one vitamin B12, relative to the total weight of the composition, and c) at least one hydrotrope. Figure for abstract: none
Need to check novelty before this filing date? Find Prior Art

Description

Title of the invention: Composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, and also relates to a process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] Stilbenoids are hydroxylated derivatives of stilbene, and most stilbenoids are produced from plants. Stilbenoids, for example, polydatin and / or its derivatives, possess potential biological activities mainly through the modulation of essential signaling pathways involved in inflammation, oxidative stress and apoptosis.

[0003] As such, polydatin and / or its derivatives is (are) a promising ingredient for whitening, anti-inflammation and anti-oxidation, and can therefore be included in cosmetic products as an active ingredient. However, it is difficult for such products to be light stable. As craftsmen know, when exposed to sunlight, trans-conformations can isomerize into czs-conformations and can further cyclize into di- or tri-hydroxyphenanthrene.

[0004] Therefore, there is a need for a composition comprising polydatin and / or its derivatives, preferably for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, which can provide good photostability of polydatin and / or its derivatives. Summary of the invention

[0005] The inventors have discovered that such a need can be satisfied by the composition according to the present invention.

[0006] According to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a composition, preferably for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising: a. polydatin and / or its derivatives, and b. at least 0.0001% by weight of at least one vitamin B12, relative to the total weight of the composition, and c. at least one hydrotrope.

[0007] According to a second aspect, the present invention relates to a process for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials, preferably skin, comprising the application of the above composition to the keratinous materials.

[0008] According to a third aspect, the present invention relates to the use of vitamin B12, preferably cyanocobalamin, to improve the photostability of polydatin and / or its derivatives, preferably that included in the above composition.

[0009] Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become even more apparent upon reading the detailed description and examples which follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0010] In the following and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in this range, in particular in the expressions "between...and..." and "from... to...".

[0011] The articles "a" and "an", as used herein, mean one or more when applied to any feature in embodiments of the present invention described in the specification and claims. The use of "a" and "an" does not limit the meaning to a single feature, unless such a limitation is specifically stated. Furthermore, the expression "at least one" as used in this specification is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0012] Throughout this application, the term "comprising" should be interpreted to encompass all of the specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no material features or features other than the specifically cited features are present (such as "consisting essentially of" or "consisting of"). In the case of "consisting essentially of", any additional composition, material and / or component that materially affects the fundamental and novel characteristics are excluded from such an embodiment, but any composition, material and / or component that does not materially affect the fundamental and novel characteristics may be included in the embodiment.

[0013] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing an amount of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term "about". Accordingly, unless otherwise specified, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values which may be modified depending on the desired performance obtained as required. The term "about" denoting a certain value is intended to denote a range within ± 5% of the value, for example: within ± 3%, ± 2%, ± 1% and ± 0.5% of the value.

[0014] As used herein, the term "keratinous material(s)" refers to the skin and lips. By "skin" is included all skin of the body, including the scalp. Preferably, the keratinous material refers to the skin. Polydatine and / or its derivatives

[0015] The composition according to the present invention comprises polydatin and / or its derivatives.

[0016] As a family, stilbenoids are attractive antioxidants for use in personal or consumer products due to their high efficiency in quenching reactive oxygen species. Stilbenoids all contain the core stilbene structure, consisting of two aromatic rings connected by a central alkene.

[0017] Such stilbenoids may include piceatannol from Norway spruce roots, pinosylvin from trees in the pine family, pterostilbene from almonds, pines, and vaccinium berries, resveratrol from grapes, astringin from Norway spruce bark, and polydatin (or piceid), referred to as stilbenoid glucosides, from fruit juices, particularly grape juices, in which polydatin (or piceid) is resveratrol-3-O-beta-glucoside, and resveratrol can be produced from polydatin (or piceid) via Aspergillus oryzae. Notably, polydatin is found in plant and fruit juices at a much higher level than other stilbenoids.

[0018] Stilbenoids are also known for their photoinstability. When exposed to sunlight or other radiation, stilbenoids, which are active in the / rans-conformations, can photoisomerize to c A-conformations, and can further cyclize to dihydroxyphenantrene or trihydroxyphenantrene.

[0019] Polydatin is a stylbenoid found in Polygonum cuspidatum, commonly known as Asian knotweed or Japanese knotweed. Preferably, polydatin is extracted from the root and / or rhizome of Polygonum cuspidatum and may also be found in a variety of other sources, such as grapes, peanuts, hop cones, red wines, hop pellets, cocoa-containing products, chocolate products, and many everyday diets.

[0020] Polydatin can be obtained in raw material reagents that comprise an amount ranging from less than 50% up to 99% or more. It is possible to obtain certain isolates and extracts that contain polydatin that is pure or essentially pure.

[0021] Preferably, polydatin and / or its derivatives according to the present invention is (are) chosen from polydatin, resveratrol, pterostilbene, pinosylvin and their mixtures. More preferably, polydatin and / or its derivatives according to the present invention is (are) chosen from polydatin, resveratrol and a mixture thereof. Resveratrol, pterostilbene, pinosylvin and trans-polydatin have the following structures respectively:

[0022] More preferably, the polydatin and / or its derivatives is the polydatin extracted from the root and / or rhizome of Polygonum cuspidatum, and in particular that sold under the name Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract by the company Guilin Layn Natural Ingredients.

[0023] Advantageously, polydatin and / or its derivatives is (are) present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Vitamin B12

[0024] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least 0.0001% by weight of at least one vitamin B12, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0025] Vitamin B12, also known as cobalamin, is a water-soluble vitamin involved in metabolism. It is one of the eight B vitamins. It is required by animals, which use it as a cofactor in DNA synthesis and in the metabolism of fatty acids and amino acids. Vitamin B12 is a cobalt coordination complex, which occupies the center of a corrin ligand and is further bound to a benzimidazole ligand.

[0026] A number of related species are known that behave in a similar manner, all functioning specifically as vitamins. This collection of compounds is often referred to as "cobalamins." These chemical compounds have a similar molecular structure, each exhibiting vitamin activity in a vitamin-deficient biological system. Generally, vitamin B12 includes four cobalamins, namely cyanocobalamin, hydroxocobalamin (Bi2ci), me- ethylcobalamin (MeBi2), and 5'-deoxyadenosylcobalamin (AdoB^), and has the following structure:

[0027] Preferably, the vitamin B12 included in the composition according to the present invention is cyanocobalamin.

[0028] As vitamin B12 suitable for use in the present invention, there may be used, for example, that sold under the name Vitamin B12 Cryst Food Grade Product Code 5016420 by DSM Nutritional Products.

[0029] Advantageously, vitamin B12 is present in an amount ranging from 0.0005% by weight to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.001% by weight to 0.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.002% by weight to 0.1% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.002% by weight to 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Hydrotrope

[0030] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one hydrotrope.

[0031] Preferably, the composition includes two or more hydrotropes. Preferably, the hydrotrope is present in an amount effective to increase the transdermal penetration of polydatin and / or its derivatives.

[0032] Most hydrotropes have an aromatic structure with an ionic moiety, while some of them are linear alkyl chains, as listed below. Although hydrotropes substantially resemble surfactants and have the ability to reduce surface tension, their small hydrophobic units and relatively shorter alkyl chain distinguish them as a distinct class of amphiphiles. Therefore, their hydrophobicity is not sufficient to create well-organized self-associated structures, such as micelles, even at high concentration.

[0033] Common hydrotropic molecules include: sodium 1,3-benzenedisulfonate, sodium benzoate, sodium 4-pyridinecarboxylate, sodium salicylate, sodium benzene sulfonate, caffeine, sodium p-toluene sulfonate, butyl monoglycol sulfate sodium, 4-aminobenzoic acid HCl, sodium cumene sulfonate, N,N -diethyl nicotinamide, V-picolylnicotinamide, V-allylnicotinamide, 2-methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine, resorcinol, butyluronide, pyrogallol, V-picolylactamidc 3,5, procaine HCl, proline HCl, nicotinamide, pyridine, 3-picolylamine, sodium ibuprofen, sodium xylenesulfonate, ethyl carbamate, pyridoxal hydrochloride, sodium benzoate, 2-pyrrolidone, ethylurea, N,N- dimethylacetamide, V-methylacetamide and isoniazid.

[0034] Cosmetically acceptable hydrotropes refer to hydrotropes that can be used in cosmetic compositions. Although hydrotropes represent a broad class of molecules used in various fields, cosmetic applications will be limited due to safety and tolerability restrictions. Hydrotropes suitable for use in cosmetics include, but are not limited to, vitamin B3, caffeine, sodium PCA (pyrrolidone carbonic acid sodium salt), sodium salicylate, urea, and hydroxyethylurea. The suitability of hydrotropes for use in cosmetic compositions may be determined using tests known in the art for determining skin effects and human toxicity. Although these hydrotropes are given by way of example, it will be appreciated that other hydrotropes compatible with cosmetic applications known in the art may be used. In some cases, vitamin B3 is selected from the group consisting of niacinamide, nicotinic acid, nicotinyl alcohol, their esters or salts, or combinations thereof.

[0035] Preferably, the hydrotrope is selected from the group consisting of vitamin B3, caffeine, sodium PCA, sodium salicylate, urea, hydroxyethylurea and combinations thereof. More preferably, the hydrotrope is selected from niacinamide, caffeine and a combination thereof. Even more preferably, the hydrotrope is a combination of niacinamide and caffeine.

[0036] Advantageously, the hydrotrope is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. UV filter

[0037] According to the present invention, the composition may comprise at least one UV filter.

[0038] As regards the UV filter, we can cite organic and inor- UV filters. organic / mineral. In some cases, the organic UV filter is selected from homosalate, octisalate, octocrylene, oxybenzone, octinoxate and combinations thereof. In some cases, the inorganic / mineral UV filter is selected from ZnO, TiO2 and one of their combinations.

[0039] Preferably, the UV filter is chosen from bio-sourced UV filters.

[0040] The expression “bio-sourced UV filter” designates a UV filter which comes from renewable natural sources.

[0041] Preferably, the bio-sourced UV filter is chosen from benzylidene camphor derivatives. One or more benzylidene camphor derivatives may be used in the composition according to the present invention. Thus, a single benzylidene camphor derivative or a combination of different benzylidene camphor derivatives may be used.

[0042] Examples of benzylidene camphor derivatives include: • 3-benzylidene camphor, for example, that sold under the brand name “Mexoryl SD” by Chimex; • 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, for example, that sold under the brand name “Eusolex 6300” by Merck; • benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid, for example, that sold under the brand name “Mexoryl SL” by Chimex; • benzalkonium camphor methosulfate, for example, that sold under the brand name “Mexoryl SO” by Chimex; • terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, for example, that sold under the brand name “Mexoryl SX” by Chimex or by NOVEAL; and • polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor, for example, that sold under the brand name “Mexoryl SW” by Chimex.

[0043] According to the present invention, the composition may comprise at least one benzylidene camphor derivative selected from 3-benzylidene camphor, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid, benzalkonium camphor methosulfate, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor and combinations thereof.

[0044] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid.

[0045] Advantageously, the UV filter is present in an amount of 0.001% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably 0.01% by weight to 2% by weight and more preferably 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Polymer of natural origin

[0046] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one polymer of natural origin.

[0047] As regards polymers of natural origin, polysaccharides may be widely mentioned. Preferably, the polymer of natural origin is chosen from gums, for example, natural gums, for example acacia Senegal gum, Caesalpinia spinosa gum, agar-agar, carob gum, carrageenan (lambda, iota kappa), gellan gum, guar gum, acacia gum, gum arabic, gum ghatti, karaya gum, tragacanth gum, hydroxypropyl guar, sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof.

[0048] Preferably, the naturally occurring polymer is xanthan gum.

[0049] Advantageously, the polymer of natural origin is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Conservative

[0050] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one preservative.

[0051] The preservative may be selected from the group consisting of organic acids, parabens, formaldehyde donors, phenol derivatives, quaternary ammoniums, diols having five or more carbon atoms, isothiazolinones and combinations thereof.

[0052] Preferably, the preservative is selected from phenol derivatives, diols having five or more carbon atoms, and combinations thereof. More preferably, the preservative is selected from mixtures of a phenol derivative and a diol having five or more carbon atoms.

[0053] More preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises a combination of caprylyl glycol and phenoxyethanol.

[0054] Advantageously, the preservative is present in an amount ranging from 0.001% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.01% by weight to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% by weight to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous solvent

[0055] The composition of the present invention may comprise at least one aqueous solvent.

[0056] Preferably, the aqueous solvent of the composition according to the present invention comprises water and one or more water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible compounds, for example C2-C6 polyols, or monoalcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol.

[0057] The term "polyol" should be understood to mean any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. Examples of polyols that may be cited include glycols, for example butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, isoprene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol (i.e., glycerin), and polyethylene glycols.

[0058] Preferably, the composition according to the present application comprises at least one C2-C6 polyol chosen from butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, isoprene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerin and polyethylene glycols.

[0059] More preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises both water and a C2-C6 polyol, preferably glycerol (i.e. glycerin).

[0060] Advantageously, the C2-C6 polyol is present in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0061] Advantageously, the water is present in an amount ranging from 20% to 90% by weight, and preferably from 30% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional ingredients

[0062] The composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more additional ingredients, chosen from those conventionally used in cosmetic products.

[0063] The composition according to the present invention may comprise any of the following additives: pH correcting agents, perfumes, chelating agents and other actives in addition to the above vitamin B12.

[0064] According to the present invention, the composition may comprise at least one other active agent selected from flavonoids, flavoglycosides and peptides. Representative examples of said other active agents include hesperidin methyl chalcone, dipeptide-2 and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7.

[0065] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises a mixture of hesperidin methyl chalcone, dipeptide-2 and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7.

[0066] A person skilled in the art can adjust the type and amount of additional ingredients present in the compositions according to the present invention by means of routine operations, so that the desired properties of these compositions are not adversely affected by the additional ingredients. Composition

[0067] The composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition, preferably for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, and more preferably a skin care composition.

[0068] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is a composition comprising polydatin and / or its derivatives, which comprises a relatively lower amount, even of only 0.0001% by weight of vitamin B12, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition can effectively improve the photostability of polydatin and / or its derivatives included therein, even when said polydatin and / or its derivatives is / are present in a relatively higher amount, for example, 0.1% by weight or more.

[0069] Preferably, for the composition according to the present invention, vitamin B12 and polydatin and / or its derivatives are present in a weight ratio of 1:2000 to 1:1, preferably 1:400 to 1:2, more preferably 1:300 to 1:20, and even more preferably 1:200 to 1:80.

[0070] The photostabilizer according to the present invention, i.e. vitamin B12, is environmentally friendly, and only a relatively small amount of this photostabilizer can effectively improve the photostability of a relatively higher amount of polydatin and / or its derivatives in the composition comprising them.

[0071] Preferably, the present invention relates to a composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a. 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight of polydatin and / or its derivatives, b. 0.0005% by weight to 1% by weight of at least one vitamin B12, c. 0.1% by weight to 20% by weight of at least one hydrotrope, and optionally d. 0.001% by weight to 5% by weight of at least one UV filter.

[0072] More preferably, the present invention relates to a composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a. 0.05% by weight to 5% by weight of polydatin and / or derivatives thereof, chosen from polydatin, resveratrol, pterostilbene, pinosylvin and mixtures thereof, b. 0.001% by weight to 0.5% by weight of at least one vitamin B12, selected from the group consisting of cyanocobalamin, hydroxocobalamin (B 12a), methyl-cobalamin (MeBi2), 5'-deoxyadenosylcobalamin (AdoB^), and combinations thereof, c. 0.5% by weight to 15% by weight of at least one hydrotrope selected from the group consisting of vitamin B3, caffeine, sodium PCA, sodium salicylate, urea, hydroxyethylurea and combinations thereof, and optionally d. 0.01% by weight to 2% by weight of at least one benzylidene camphor derivative.

[0073] More preferably still, the present invention relates to a composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a. 0.1% by weight to 3% by weight of polydatin, b. 0.002% by weight to 0.01% by weight of cyanocobalamin, c. 1% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one hydrotrope selected from niacinamide, caffeine and a combination thereof, and optionally d. 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight of terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid. Process and use

[0074] The composition according to the present invention can be used in a process of care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, such as skin, by being applied to the keratinous materials.

[0075] The composition according to the invention can be applied by any means allowing uniform distribution, preferably using a finger or a palm.

[0076] According to a second aspect, the present invention relates to a process for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials, preferably skin, comprising the application of the above composition to the keratinous materials, and optionally massaging the skin for 2 seconds to 20 seconds.

[0077] According to a third aspect, the present invention relates to the use of vitamin B12, preferably cyanocobalamin, for improving the photostability of polydatin and / or its derivatives, preferably that included in the above composition according to the present invention.

[0078] Preferably, the composition comprises an amount of 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05% by weight to 5% by weight, and more preferably 0.1% by weight to 3% by weight of polydatin and / or its derivatives, and an amount of 0.0001% by weight or more, preferably 0.0005% by weight to 1% by weight, more preferably 0.001% by weight to 0.5% by weight, even more preferably 0.002% by weight to 0.1% by weight, and even more preferably 0.002% by weight to 0.01% by weight of vitamin B12, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0079] Preferably, the composition further comprises at least one hydrotrope selected from the group consisting of vitamin B3, caffeine, sodium PCA, sodium salicylate, urea, hydroxyethylurea and combinations thereof, more preferably at least one hydrotrope selected from niacinamide, caffeine and one of their combinations, and even more preferably a combination of niacinamide and caffeine.

[0080] The present invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples described below, which are given by way of non-limiting illustrations. EXAMPLES

[0081] The main raw materials used, their trade names and their suppliers are listed in Table 1.

[0082] [Table 1]

[0083] [Tables 1] INCI name Trade name Supplier NIACINAMIDE NIACINAMIDE PC (CODE 5016013) DSM NU- TRITIONAL PRODUCTS CAFFEINE CAFFEINE POWDER BASF CYANOCOBALAMIN VIT AMIN B12 CRYST FOOD GRADE PRODUCT CODE: 5016420 DSM NU- TRITIONAL PRODUCTS POLYGONUM CUSPIDATUM ROOT EXTRACT POLYGONUM CUSPIDATUM ROOT EXTRACT GUILIN LAYN NATURAL INGREDIENTS TEREPHTHALYLIDENE DICAMPHOR SULFONIC ACID MEXORYL SX NOVEAL HESPERIDIN METHYL CHALCONE (AND) DIPEPTIDE-2 (AND) PALMITOYL TE-TRAPEPTIDE-7 EYELISS SEDERMA (CRODA) Comparative Examples 1 and 2 and Inventive Example 1

[0084] The compositions according to Comparative Examples (CE.) 1 and 2 and Inventive Example (Ex.) 1 comprising the ingredients indicated in Table 2 were prepared, all quantities being expressed as percentages by weight of active material relative to the total weight of each composition, unless otherwise indicated as raw material (RM).

[0085] [Table 2]

[0086] [Tables2] Components Ex. 1 EC. 1 EC. 2 Phase A XANTHAN GUM 0.2 0.2 0.2 PHENOXYETHANOL 0.3 0.3 0.3 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.3 0.3 0.3 GLYCERIN 7.0 7.0 7.0 WATER QS QS QS Phase B CAFFEINE 2.0 2.0 2.0 NIACINAMIDE 5.0 5.0 5.0 POLYGONUM CUSPIDATUM ROOT EXTRACT 0.5 0.5 0.5 Phase C HESPERIDIN METHYL CHALCONE (AND) DIPEPTIDE-2 (AND) PALMITOYL TE-TRAPEPTIDE-7 3.0 MP 3.0 MP 3.0 MP TEREPHTA-LYLIDENE DICAMPHOR SULFONIC ACID 0.5 0.5 0.5 Phase D CYANOCOBALAMIN 0.0045 0.00008 0 Preparation process

[0087] The compositions were prepared from a process comprising the following steps: 1. adding the materials of phase A into a container, and heating the resulting mixture to a temperature of 80°C with stirring until complete dissolution; 2. addition of phase B materials to the container at a temperature of 65°C with stirring until completely dissolved; 3. adding the phase C materials to the container at a temperature of 30°C with stirring until completely dissolved; and 4. addition of the materials of phase D into the container at a temperature of 30°C until complete dissolution, in order to obtain the final composition. Test method

[0088] Each of the compositions according to Inventive Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 was spread on eight glass plates at a rate of 2 mg / cm2. For each composition, four of the eight glass plates were placed under xenon light, while the other four glass plates were placed without xenon light. Each glass plate was left for 20 minutes at a temperature of 40 °C. Then, each of the glass plates was separately immersed in 30 mL of methanol and each of the respective methanol solution was sonicated for 15 minutes to extract polydatin. Each of the resulting methanol solutions was measured by HPLC (reverse phase) to quantify the residual amount of polydatin. The residual amounts of polydatin from the four glass plates placed under xenon light were averaged to obtain the polydatin (%) with Xe light.The residual amount of polydatin from the four glass plates placed without xenon light was averaged to obtain the polydatin (%) without Xe light. The photostability of polydatin for each composition was calculated by the following equation: .

[0089] Photostability (%) = (polydatin (%) with Xe light) / (polydatin (%) without Xe light)

[0090] The composition according to Inventive Example 1 was more light stable such that 68% of polydatin remained even after exposure to light.

[0091] The compositions according to Comparative Examples 1 and 2 were less stable to light such that the photostability of polydatin was 60% or less for each composition. Performance of the compositions

[0092] [Table 3]

[0093] [Tables3] Properties Ex.l EC. 1 EC. 2 Photostability 68% Pass 60% Fail 54% Fail

[0094] A photostability (%) of 60% or less is considered a failure of polydatin stabilization.

[0095] From the data in Table 3, it can be seen that the composition of Inventive Example 1 comprising an amount of 0.0001 wt% or more of vitamin B12 provides improved photostability of the polydatin contained therein when exposed to light. In contrast, the compositions of Comparative Examples 1 and 2 which do not comprise Vitamin B12 or comprise an amount of less than 0.0001 wt% of Vitamin B12 cannot provide desirable photostability of the polydatin contained therein when exposed to light.

Claims

Claims

1. Composition, preferably for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising: a) polydatin and / or its derivatives, b) at least 0.0001% by weight of at least one vitamin B12, relative to the total weight of the composition, and c) at least one hydrotrope.

2. Composition according to claim 1, in which the polydatin and / or its derivatives is (are) chosen from polydatin, resveratrol, pterostilbene, pinosylvin and their mixtures, and is (are) preferably chosen from polydatin, resveratrol and one of their mixtures, and more preferably polydatin extracted from the root and / or rhizome of Polygonum cuspidatum.

3. A composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the vitamin B12 is selected from the group consisting of cyanocobalamin, hydroxo-cobalamin (Bi2a), methylcobalamin (MeBi2), 5'-deoxyadenosylcobalamin (AdoB^) and combinations thereof, and is preferably cyanocobalamin.

4. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the hydrotrope is selected from the group consisting of vitamin B3, caffeine, sodium PCA, sodium salicylate, urea, hydroxyethylurea and combinations thereof, and preferably selected from niacinamide, caffeine and a combination thereof, and more preferably a combination of niacinamide and caffeine.

5. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one UV filter; which is preferably selected from benzylidene camphor derivatives, more preferably selected from the group consisting of 3-benzylidene camphor, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid, benzalkonium camphor methosulfate, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor and combinations thereof, and is even more preferably terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid; wherein the UV filter is preferably present in an amount of 0.001% by weight to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.01% by weight to 2% by weight, and even more preferably 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which vitamin B12 is present in an amount ranging from 0.0005% by weight to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.001% by weight to 0.5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.002% by weight to 0.1% by weight, even more preferably from 0.002% by weight to 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein vitamin B12 and polydatin and / or its derivatives are present in a weight ratio of 1:2000 to 1:1, preferably 1:400 to 1:2, more preferably 1:300 to 1:20, and even more preferably 1:200 to 1:

80.

8. Composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, relative to the total weight of the composition, comprising a. 0.1% by weight to 3% by weight of polydatin, b. 0.002% by weight to 0.01% by weight of cyanocobalamin, c. 1% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one hydrotrope chosen from niacinamide, caffeine and one of their combinations, and optionally d. 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight of terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid.

9. Process for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials, preferably skin, comprising the application of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 to the keratinous materials.

10. Use of vitamin B12, preferably cyanocobalamin, for improving the photostability of polydatin and / or its derivatives, preferably that included in the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8.