Composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials

A composition with polydatin, vitamin B12, and a hydrotrope stabilizes stilbenoids against light degradation, maintaining their effectiveness in cosmetic products.

FR3158042B3Active Publication Date: 2026-02-13LOREAL SA
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Patent Information

Application Number
FR2024001516
Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Utility models
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2024-01-05
Filing Date
2024-02-16
Publication Date
2026-02-13
Estimated Expiration
2034-02-16
Patent Text Reader

Abstract

Composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials. The present invention relates to a composition, preferably for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising: a) polydatin and / or its derivatives, b) at least 0.0001% by weight of at least one vitamin B12, relative to the total weight of the composition, and c) at least one hydrotrope. Figure for the abstract: none
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Description

Title of the invention: Composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, and also relates to a process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] Stilbenoids are hydroxylated derivatives of stilbene, and most stilbenoids are produced from plants. Stilbenoids, for example, polydatin and / or its derivatives, possess potential biological activities primarily through the modulation of key signaling pathways involved in inflammation, oxidative stress, and apoptosis.

[0003] As such, polydatin and / or its derivatives is / are a promising ingredient for whitening, anti-inflammation, and antioxidant properties, and can therefore be included in cosmetic products as an active ingredient. However, it is difficult for such products to be light-stable. As artisans know, when exposed to sunlight, trans-conformations can isomerize into czs-conformations and can further cyclize into di- or tri-hydroxyphenanthrene.

[0004] Therefore, there is a need for a composition comprising polydatin and / or its derivatives, preferably for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, which can offer good photostability of the polydatin and / or its derivatives. Summary of the invention

[0005] The inventors have discovered that such a need can be satisfied by the composition according to the present invention.

[0006] According to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a composition, preferably for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising: a. polydatene and / or its derivatives, and b. at least 0.0001% by weight of at least one vitamin B12, relative to the total weight of the composition, and c. at least one hydrotrope.

[0007] According to a second aspect, the present invention relates to a process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, preferably skin, comprising the application of the above composition to the keratinous materials.

[0008] According to a third aspect, the present invention relates to the use of vitamin B12, preferably cyanocobalamin, to improve the photostability of polydatin and / or its derivatives, preferably that included in the composition above.

[0009] Other subjects and features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become even clearer upon reading the detailed description and examples that follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0010] In what follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between...and..." and "from...to...".

[0011] The articles “a” and “an,” as used herein, mean one or more when applied to any particular feature in embodiments of the present invention described in the specification and the claims. The use of “a” and “an” does not limit the meaning to a single feature unless such a limitation is specifically stated. Furthermore, the expression “at least one” used in this description is equivalent to the expression “one or more.”

[0012] Throughout this application, the term "comprising" shall be interpreted as encompassing all the specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no material features or even any features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (such as "essentially consisting of" or "consisting of"). In the case of "essentially consisting of," any additional composition, material, and / or component that materially affects the fundamental and innovative features is excluded from such an embodiment, but any composition, material, and / or component that does not materially affect the fundamental and innovative features may be included in the embodiment.

[0013] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values ​​expressing a quantity of ingredients and other substances used in the description and claims shall be understood as being modified by the term "approximately". Accordingly, unless otherwise indicated, the numerical values ​​and parameters described herein are approximate values ​​that may be modified according to the desired performance obtained as required. The term "approximately" referring to a certain value is intended to denote a range to within ±5% of the value, for example: ±3%, ±2%, ±1%, and ±0.5% of the value.

[0014] As used herein, the expression "keratinous material(s)" refers to the skin and lips. "Skin" includes all skin on the body, including the scalp. Preferably, keratinous material refers to the skin. Polydatene and / or its derivatives

[0015] The composition according to the present invention comprises polydaten and / or its derivatives.

[0016] As a family, stilbenoids are interesting antioxidants for use in personal or consumer products because of their high efficiency in quenching reactive oxygen species. All stilbenoids contain the core structure of stilbene, consisting of two aromatic rings linked by a central alkene.

[0017] Such stilbenoids may include piceatannol from the roots of Norway spruce, pinosylvin from trees of the pine family, pterostilbene from almonds, pines, and vaccinium berries, resveratrol from grapes, astringin from the bark of Norway spruce, and polydatin (or piceide), called stilbenoid glucosides, from fruit juices, particularly grape juice, in which polydatin (or piceide) is resveratrol-3-O-beta-glucoside, and resveratrol can be produced from polydatin (or piceide) via Aspergillus oryzae. Notably, polydatin is found in plant and fruit juices at a much higher concentration than other stilbenoids.

[0018] Stilbenoids are also known for their photo-instability. When exposed to sunlight or other radiation, stilbenoids, which are active in the / trans-conformations, can photoisomerize into c A-conformations, and can further cyclize into dihydroxyphenantrene or trihydroxyphenantrene.

[0019] Polydatin is a stylbenoid found in Polygonum cuspidatum, commonly known as Asian knotweed or Japanese knotweed. Preferably, polydatin is extracted from the root and / or rhizome of Polygonum cuspidatum and can also be found in a variety of other sources, such as grapes, peanuts, hop cones, red wines, hop pellets, cocoa-containing products, chocolate products, and many everyday diets.

[0020] Polydatin can be obtained in raw material reagents comprising an amount ranging from less than 50% up to 99% or more. It is possible to obtain certain isolates and extracts containing pure or essentially pure polydatin.

[0021] Preferably, polydatin and / or its derivatives according to the present invention is / are selected from polydatin, resveratrol, pterostilbene, pinosylvin and mixtures thereof. More preferably, polydatin and / or its derivatives according to the present The invention is / are selected from polydatin, resveratrol, and mixtures thereof. Resveratrol, pterostilbene, pinosylvin, and trans-polydatin have the following structures, respectively:

[0022] More preferably, polydatin and / or its derivatives is polydatin extracted from the root and / or rhizome of Polygonum cuspidatum, and in particular that sold under the name Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract by the company Guilin Layn Natural Ingredients.

[0023] Advantageously, polydatin and / or its derivatives is / are present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Vitamin B12

[0024] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least 0.0001% by weight of at least one vitamin B12, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0025] Vitamin B12, also known as cobalamin, is a water-soluble vitamin involved in metabolism. It is one of the eight B vitamins. It is required by animals, which use it as a cofactor in DNA synthesis and in the metabolism of fatty acids and amino acids. Vitamin B12 is a cobalt coordination complex, which occupies the center of a corrin ligand and is further linked to a benzimidazole ligand.

[0026] A number of related species are known and behave similarly, all functioning particularly as vitamins. This collection of compounds is often called "cobalamins." These chemical compounds have a similar molecular structure, each exhibiting vitamin activity in a vitamin-deficient biological system. Generally, vitamin B12 includes four cobalamins, namely cyanocobalamin, hydroxocobalamin (Bi2Ci), me- thylcobalamin (MeBi2), and 5'-deoxyadenosylcobalamin (AdoB^), and has the following structure:

[0027] Preferably, the vitamin B12 included in the composition according to the present invention is cyanocobalamin.

[0028] As a vitamin B12 suitable for use in the present invention, one may use, for example, that sold under the name Vitamin B12 Cryst Food Grade Product Code 5016420 by the company DSM Nutritional Products.

[0029] Advantageously, vitamin B12 is present in an amount ranging from 0.0005% by weight to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.001% by weight to 0.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.002% by weight to 0.1% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.002% by weight to 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Hydrotropic

[0030] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one hydrotrope.

[0031] Preferably, the composition includes two or more hydrotropes. Preferably, the hydrotrope is present in an amount effective in increasing the transdermal penetration of polydatin and / or its derivatives.

[0032] Most hydrotropes have an aromatic structure with an ionic fraction, while some are linear alkyl chains, as listed below. Although hydrotropes closely resemble surfactants and have the ability to reduce surface tension, their small hydrophobic motifs and relatively shorter alkyl chain distinguish them as a separate class of amphiphiles. Consequently, their hydrophobicity is insufficient to create well-organized self-associating structures, such as micelles, even at high concentrations.

[0033] Common hydrotropic molecules include: sodium 1,3-benzenedisulfonate, sodium benzoate, sodium 4-pyridinecarboxylate, sodium salicylate, sodium benzene sulfonate, caffeine, sodium p-toluene sulfonate, butyl monoglycolsulfate sodium, 4-aminobenzoic acid HCl, sodium cumene sulfonate, N,N-diethyl nicotinamide, V-picolylnicotinamide, V-allylnicotinamide, 2-methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine, resorcinol, butylureh, pyrogallol, V-picolylacctamid 3,5, procaine HCl, proline HCl, nicotinamide, pyridine, 3-picolylamine, sodium ibuprofen, sodium xylenesulfonate, ethyl carbamate, pyridoxal hydrochloride, sodium benzoate, 2-pyrrolidone, ethylurea, N,N-dimethylacetamide, V-methylacetamide and isoniazid.

[0034] Cosmetically acceptable hydrotropes refer to hydrotropes that can be used in cosmetic compositions. Although hydrotropes represent a broad class of molecules used in various fields, cosmetic applications will be limited due to safety and tolerability restrictions. Hydrotropes suitable for use in cosmetics include, but are not limited to, vitamin B3, caffeine, sodium PCA (sodium salt of pyrrolidone carbonic acid), sodium salicylate, urea, and hydroxyethyl urea. The suitability of hydrotropes for use in cosmetic compositions can be determined using tests known in the art for determining their effects on the skin and their toxicity to humans. Although these hydrotropes are given as examples, it is appreciated if other hydrotropes compatible with known cosmetic applications can be used. In some cases, vitamin B3 is chosen from the group consisting of niacinamide, nicotinic acid, nicotinyl alcohol, their esters or salts, or combinations thereof.

[0035] Preferably, the hydrotrope is selected from the group consisting of vitamin B3, caffeine, sodium PCA, sodium salicylate, urea, hydroxyethylurea, and combinations thereof. More preferably, the hydrotrope is selected from niacinamide, caffeine, and one of their combinations. Even more preferably, the hydrotrope is a combination of niacinamide and caffeine.

[0036] Advantageously, the hydrotrope is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. UV filter

[0037] According to the present invention, the composition may include at least one UV filter.

[0038] With regard to the UV filter, we can mention organic and inorganic UV filters. Organic / mineral UV filters are used. In some cases, the organic UV filter is chosen from homosalate, octisalate, octocrylene, oxybenzone, octinoxate, and combinations thereof. In some cases, the inorganic / mineral UV filter is chosen from ZnO, TiO2, and combinations thereof.

[0039] Preferably, the UV filter is chosen from bio-based UV filters.

[0040] The expression "bio-based UV filter" refers to a UV filter that comes from renewable natural sources.

[0041] Preferably, the bio-based UV filter is selected from benzylidene camphor derivatives. One or more benzylidene camphor derivatives may be used in the composition according to the present invention. Thus, a single benzylidene camphor derivative or a combination of different benzylidene camphor derivatives may be used.

[0042] Examples of camphor benzylidene derivatives include: • 3-benzylidene camphor, for example, that sold under the brand name “Mexoryl SD” by Chimex; • 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, for example, that sold under the brand name "Eusolex 6300" by Merck; • benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid, for example, that sold under the brand name "Mexoryl SL" by Chimex; • benzalconium camphor methosulfate, for example, that sold under the brand name "Mexoryl SO" by Chimex; • terephthalylidene diamphrulfonic acid, for example, that sold under the brand name "Mexoryl SX" by Chimex or by NOVEAL; and • polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor, for example, that sold under the brand name “Mexoryl SW” by Chimex.

[0043] According to the present invention, the composition may comprise at least one benzylidene camphor derivative selected from 3-benzylidene camphor, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid, benzalconium camphor methosulfate, terephthalylidene diamphrum sulfonic acid, polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor and their combinations.

[0044] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises terephthalylidene dicamphric sulfonic acid.

[0045] Advantageously, the UV filter is present in an amount of 0.001% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably 0.01% by weight to 2% by weight and more preferably 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Naturally derived polymer

[0046] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one polymer of natural origin.

[0047] With regard to polymers of natural origin, polysaccharides are a common example. Preferably, the polymer of natural origin is chosen from among gums, for example, natural gums such as acacia gum from Senegal, Caesalpinia spinosa gum, agar-agar, locust bean gum, carrageenan (lambda, iota kappa), gellan gum, guar gum, acacia gum, gum arabic, ghatti gum, karaya gum, tragacanth gum, Hydroxypropyl guar, sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof.

[0048] Preferably, the naturally occurring polymer is xanthan gum.

[0049] Advantageously, the naturally sourced polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Conservative

[0050] The composition according to the present invention may include at least one preservative.

[0051] The preservative may be chosen from the group consisting of organic acids, parabens, formaldehyde donors, phenol derivatives, quaternary ammonium compounds, diols having five or more carbon atoms, isothiazolinones and their combinations.

[0052] Preferably, the preservative is chosen from phenol derivatives, diols having five or more carbon atoms, and combinations thereof. More preferably, the preservative is chosen from mixtures of a phenol derivative and a diol having five or more carbon atoms.

[0053] More preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises a combination of caprylyl glycol and phenoxyethanol.

[0054] Advantageously, the preservative is present in an amount ranging from 0.001% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.01% by weight to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% by weight to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous solvent

[0055] The composition of the present invention may include at least one aqueous solvent.

[0056] Preferably, the aqueous solvent of the composition according to the present invention comprises water and one or more water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible compounds, for example C2-C6 polyols, or monoalcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol.

[0057] The term "polyol" should be understood as designating any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. Examples of polyols that may be cited include glycols, for example butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, isoprene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol (i.e. glycerin) and polyethylene glycols.

[0058] Preferably, the composition according to the present application comprises at least one C2-C6 polyol selected from butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, isoprene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerin and polyethylene glycols.

[0059] More preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises both water and a C2-C6 polyol, preferably glycerol (i.e. glycerin).

[0060] Advantageously, the C2-C6 polyol is present in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0061] Advantageously, water is present in an amount ranging from 20% to 90% by weight, and preferably from 30% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional ingredients

[0062] The composition according to the present invention may include one or more additional ingredients, chosen from those classically used in cosmetic products.

[0063] The composition according to the present invention may include any of the following additives: pH correcting agents, perfumes, chelating agents and other active ingredients in addition to the vitamin B12 mentioned above.

[0064] According to the present invention, the composition may comprise at least one other active ingredient selected from flavonoids, flavoglycosides, and peptides. Representative examples of said other active ingredients include hesperidin methyl chalcone, dipeptide-2, and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7.

[0065] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises a mixture of hesperidin methyl chalcone, dipeptide-2 and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7.

[0066] A person skilled in the art can adjust the type and quantity of additional ingredients present in the compositions according to the present invention by means of routine operations, so that the desired properties of these compositions are not negatively affected by the additional ingredients. Composition

[0067] The composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition, preferably for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, and more preferably a skin care composition.

[0068] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is a composition comprising polydatin and / or its derivatives, which includes a relatively small amount, even as little as 0.0001% by weight of vitamin B12, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition can effectively improve the photostability of the polydatin and / or its derivatives included therein, even when said polydatin and / or its derivatives are present in a relatively larger amount, for example, 0.1% by weight or more.

[0069] Preferably, for the composition according to the present invention, vitamin B12 and the Polydatin and / or its derivatives are present in a weight ratio of 1:2000 to 1:1, preferably 1:400 to 1:2, more preferably 1:300 to 1:20, and even more preferably 1:200 to 1:80.

[0070] The photostabilizer according to the present invention, i.e. vitamin B12, is environmentally friendly, and only a relatively small amount of this photostabilizer can effectively improve the photostability of a relatively larger amount of polydatin and / or its derivatives in the composition comprising them.

[0071] Preferably, the present invention relates to a composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a. 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight of polydatin and / or its derivatives, b. 0.0005% by weight to 1% by weight of at least one vitamin B12, c. 0.1% by weight to 20% by weight of at least one hydrotrope, and optionally d. 0.001% by weight to 5% by weight of at least one UV filter.

[0072] More preferably, the present invention relates to a composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a. 0.05% by weight to 5% by weight of polydatin and / or derivatives thereof, selected from polydatin, resveratrol, pterostilbene, pinosylvin and mixtures thereof, b. 0.001% by weight to 0.5% by weight of at least one vitamin B12, chosen from the group consisting of cyanocobalamin, hydroxocobalamin (B12a), methylcobalamin (MeBi2), 5'-deoxyadenosylcobalamin (AdoB^), and their combinations, c. 0.5% by weight to 15% by weight of at least one hydrotrope selected from the group consisting of vitamin B3, caffeine, sodium PCA, sodium salicylate, urea, hydroxyethyl urea and their combinations, and optionally d. 0.01% by weight to 2% by weight of at least one camphor benzylidene derivative.

[0073] More preferably, the present invention relates to a composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a. 0.1% by weight to 3% by weight of polydatene, b. 0.002% by weight to 0.01% by weight of cyanocobalamin, c. 1% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one hydrotropic agent chosen from niacinamide, caffeine and one of their combinations, and optionally d. 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight of terephthalylidene diamphrulfonic acid. Process and use

[0074] The composition according to the present invention can be used in a process of care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, such as skin, by being applied to the keratinous materials.

[0075] The composition according to the invention can be applied by any means allowing uniform distribution, preferably using a finger or palm.

[0076] According to a second aspect, the present invention relates to a process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, preferably skin, comprising the application of the above composition to the keratinous materials, and optionally the massage of the skin for 2 to 20 seconds.

[0077] According to a third aspect, the present invention relates to the use of vitamin B12, preferably cyanocobalamin, to improve the photostability of polydatin and / or its derivatives, preferably that included in the above composition according to the present invention.

[0078] Preferably, the composition comprises an amount of 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05% by weight to 5% by weight, and more preferably 0.1% by weight to 3% by weight of polydatin and / or its derivatives, and an amount of 0.0001% by weight or more, preferably 0.0005% by weight to 1% by weight, more preferably 0.001% by weight to 0.5% by weight, even more preferably 0.002% by weight to 0.1% by weight, and even more preferably 0.002% by weight to 0.01% by weight of vitamin B12, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0079] Preferably, the composition further comprises at least one hydrotrope selected from the group consisting of vitamin B3, caffeine, sodium PCA, sodium salicylate, urea, hydroxyethylurea and their combinations, more preferably at least one hydrotrope selected from niacinamide, caffeine and one of their combinations, and even more preferably a combination of niacinamide and caffeine.

[0080] The present invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples described below, which are given by way of non-limiting illustrations. EXAMPLES

[0081] The main raw materials used, their trade names and their suppliers are listed in Table 1.

[0082] [Table 1]

[0083] [Tables 1] INCI name Trade name Supplier NIACINAMIDE NIACINAMIDE PC (CODE 5016013) DSM NU- TRITIONAL PRODUCTS CAFFEINE CAFFEINE POWDER BASF CYANOCOBALAMIN VIT AMIN B12 CRYST FOOD GRADE PRODUCT CODE: 5016420 DSM NU- TRITIONAL PRODUCTS POLYGONUM CUSPIDATUM ROOT EXTRACT POLYGONUM CUSPIDATUM ROOT EXTRACT GUILIN LAYN NATURAL INGREDIENTS TEREPHTHALYLIDENE DICAMPHOR SULFONIC ACID MEXORYL SX NOVEAL HESPERIDIN METHYL CHALCONE (AND) DIPEPTIDE-2 (AND) PALMITOYL TE-TRAPEPTIDE-7 EYELISS SEDERMA (CRODA) Comparative Examples 1 and 2 and Inventive Example 1

[0084] The compositions according to Comparative Examples (CE.) 1 and 2 and Inventive Example (Ex.) 1 comprising the ingredients indicated in Table 2 were prepared, all quantities being expressed as percentages by weight of active material relative to the total weight of each composition, unless otherwise indicated as raw material (RM).

[0085] [Table 2]

[0086] [Tables2] Components Ex. 1 EC. 1 EC. Phase A XANTHAN GUM 0.2 0.2 0.2 PHENOXYETHANOL 0.3 0.3 0.3 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.3 0.3 0.3 GLYCERIN 7.0 7.0 7.0 WATER QS QS QS Phase B CAFFEINE 2.0 2.0 2.0 NIACINAMIDE 5.0 5.0 5.0 POLYGONUM CUSPIDATUM ROOT EXTRACT 0.5 0.5 0.5 Phase C HESPERIDINE METHYL CHALCONE (ET) DIPEPTIDE-2 (ET) PALMITOYL TE-TRAPEPTIDE-7 3.0 MP 3.0 MP 3.0 MP TEREPHTHALYLIDENE DICAMPHOR SULFONIC ACID 0.5 0.5 0.5 Phase D CYANOCOBALAMIN 0.0045 0.00008 0 Preparation process

[0087] The compositions were prepared using a process comprising the following steps: 1. Adding the materials from phase A into a container, and heating the resulting mixture to a temperature of 80 °C with stirring until complete dissolution; 2. Addition of the materials from phase B into the container at a temperature of 65 °C with stirring until complete dissolution; 3. Adding the materials from phase C to the container at a temperature of 30 °C with stirring until completely dissolved; and 4. Addition of the materials from phase D into the container at a temperature of 30 °C until complete dissolution, in order to obtain the final composition. Test procedure

[0088] Each of the compositions according to Inventive Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 was spread onto eight glass plates at a concentration of 2 mg / cm². For each composition, four of the eight glass plates were placed under xenon light, while the other four glass plates were placed without xenon light. Each glass plate was left for 20 minutes at a temperature of 40 °C. Then, each glass plate was immersed separately in 30 mL of methanol, and each of the respective methanol solutions was sonicated for 15 minutes to extract the polydatin. Each of the resulting methanol solutions was measured by HPLC (reverse phase) to quantify the residual amount of polydatin. The residual amounts of polydatin from the four glass plates placed under xenon light were averaged to obtain the polydatin (%) with xenon light.The residual amount of polydatin from the four glass plates placed without xenon light was averaged to obtain the polydatin (%) without Xe light. The photostability of polydatin for each composition was calculated using the following equation: .

[0089] Photostability (%) = (polydatene (%) with Xe light) / (polydatene (%) without Xe light)

[0090] The composition according to Inventive Example 1 was more stable in light so that 68% of polydaten remained even after exposure to light.

[0091] The compositions according to Comparative Examples 1 and 2 were less stable in light so that the photostability of polydaten was 60% or less for each composition. Composition performance

[0092] [Table 3]

[0093] [Tables3] Properties Ex.l EC. 1 EC. 2 Photostability 68% Success 60% Failure 54% Failure

[0094] A photostability (%) of 60% or less is considered a failure of polydaten stabilization.

[0095] According to the data in Table 3, it can be seen that the composition of Inventive Example 1, containing 0.0001% by weight or more of vitamin B12, offers improved photostability of the polydatin it contains when exposed to light. In contrast, the compositions of Comparative Examples 1 and 2, which do not contain vitamin B12 or contain less than 0.0001% by weight of vitamin B12, cannot offer the desired photostability of the polydatin they contain when exposed to light.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition, preferably for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising: a) polydatin and / or its derivatives, b) at least 0.0001% by weight of at least one vitamin B12, relative to the total weight of the composition, and c) at least one hydrotrope.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein polydatin and / or its derivatives is / are selected from polydatin, resveratrol, pterostilbene, pinosylvin and mixtures thereof, and is / are preferably selected from polydatin, resveratrol and one of their mixtures, and more preferably polydatin extracted from the root and / or rhizome of Polygonum cuspidatum.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein vitamin B12 is selected from the group consisting of cyanocobalamin, hydroxo-cobalamin (Bi2a), methylcobalamin (MeBi2), 5'-deoxyadenosylcobalamin (AdoB^) and their combinations, and is preferably cyanocobalamin.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the hydrotrope is selected from the group consisting of vitamin B3, caffeine, sodium PCA, sodium salicylate, urea, hydroxyethylurea and combinations thereof, and preferably selected from niacinamide, caffeine and one of their combinations, and more preferably a combination of niacinamide and caffeine.

5. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one UV filter; which is preferably selected from benzylidene camphor derivatives, more preferably selected from the group consisting of 3-benzylidene camphor, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid, benzalconium camphor methosulfate, terephthalylidene dicamphre sulfonic acid, polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor and combinations thereof, and is even more preferably terephthalylidene dicamphre sulfonic acid; wherein the UV filter is preferably present in an amount of 0.001% by weight to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% by weight to 2% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein vitamin B12 is present in an amount from 0.0005% by weight to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.001% by weight to 0.5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.002% by weight to 0.1% by weight, even more preferably from 0.002% by weight to 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein vitamin B12 and polydatin and / or its derivatives are present in a weight ratio of 1:2000 to 1:1, preferably 1:400 to 1:2, more preferably 1:300 to 1:20, and even more preferably 1:200 to 1:

80.

8. Composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in relation to the total weight of the composition, comprising a. 0.1% by weight to 3% by weight of polydatin, b. 0.002% by weight to 0.01% by weight of cyanocobalamin, c. 1% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one hydrotrope selected from niacinamide, caffeine and one of their combinations, and optionally d. 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight of terephthalylidene dicamphre sulfonic acid.

9. Process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, preferably skin, comprising the application of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 on keratinous materials.

10. Use of vitamin B12, preferably cyanocobalamin, to improve the photostability of polydatin and / or its derivatives, preferably that included in the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8.