TRANSPARENT COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR THE CARE AND TREATMENT OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS

Abstract

TRANSPARENT COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR THE CARE AND TREATMENT OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS. The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular a transparent cosmetic composition comprising at least one beta-hydroxy acid; at least one alcohol; at least one polyoxybutylene, polyoxyethylene, polyoxypropylene, or glycerol; at least one hydrophilic polymer; at least one thickener comprising a combination of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, and pullulan; and at least one hydrotrope. The present invention also relates to a stable, transparent aqueous composition comprising a combination of beta-hydroxy acids. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: TRANSPARENT COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR THE CARE AND TREATMENT OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS FIELD OF INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition. The present invention relates in particular to a transparent aqueous composition comprising hydroxy acids for the care and treatment of keratinous materials. CONTEXT OF THE INVENTION

[0002] Cosmetic products, preferably skincare and bodycare products, are among the most sought-after cosmetic products in everyday life. Consumers with diverse skin types and textures seek products that best suit their needs and provide the greatest benefits. As a result, the market is flooded with a variety of skincare products. However, these skincare products are not suitable for all skin types and do not meet consumer expectations in terms of aesthetics, sensory appeal, and performance.

[0003] Formulating cosmetic compositions to meet consumers' sensory and aesthetic requirements while offering superior performance efficacy is demanding. In particular, there are challenges related to formulating transparent and stable skincare products with an increased amount of skin actives such as keratolytic agents. These keratolytic agents are generally lipophilic in nature and may solubilize less readily when introduced at higher concentrations in cosmetic compositions with a high water content. Indeed, keratolytic agents can crystallize and / or settle, leading to a decrease in their bioavailability and / or compositions lacking transparency.

[0004] Consequently, there is a need in the state of the art to formulate a transparent aqueous cosmetic composition that could provide a superior sensory effect and superior performance in the treatment of various skin-related problems such as acne, sebum reduction, pore minimization and shine control, while also providing skin care.

[0005] Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, which are designed and developed taking environmental issues into account, is becoming a major objective in an effort to address global challenges. It is, by Consequently, it is essential to offer more sustainable compositions, preparation processes and ingredients to address these environmental concerns.

[0006] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or materials with a high naturalness index and / or materials of natural origin, and more specifically, materials of plant origin, while reducing the use of petrochemical compounds. Summary of the invention

[0007] In one aspect of the present invention, a transparent composition is proposed comprising: a) at least one beta-hydroxy acid; b) at least one alcohol; c) at least one polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol; d) at least one hydrophilic polymer; e) at least one thickener comprising a combination of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum and pullulan; and f) at least one hydrotrope.

[0008] In another aspect of the present invention, a method for treating keratinous material, preferably skin, is proposed, the method comprising the application of a composition comprising: a) at least one beta-hydroxy acid; b) at least one alcohol; c) at least one polyoxybutylene, polyoxyethylene, polyoxypropylene, glycerol; d) at least one hydrophilic polymer; e) at least one thickener comprising a combination of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, and pullulan; and f) at least one hydrotrope, to the keratinous material, preferably skin.

[0009] In a further aspect of the present invention, it is proposed to use a composition comprising: a) at least one beta-hydroxy acid; b) at least one alcohol; c) at least one polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol; d) at least one hydrophilic polymer; e) at least one thickener comprising a combination of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum and pullulan; and f) at least one hydrotrope, for treating acne and / or providing skin care.

[0010] These features, aspects, and advantages, as well as others, of the present subject matter will be better understood with reference to the following description and the attached claims. The purpose of this summary is to present a selection of concepts in a simplified form. This summary is not intended to identify key features or essential features of the claimed subject matter, nor is it intended to be used to limit the scope of the claimed subject matter. DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0011] A person skilled in the art will be aware that the present invention is subject to variations and modifications other than those specifically described. It is understood that the present invention includes all such variations and modifications. The invention includes also all these steps, features, compositions and all these compounds designated or indicated in this patent memorandum, individually or collectively, and any combination of one or more of these steps or features.

[0012] Definitions

[0013] For convenience, before describing the present invention in more detail, certain terms used in the patent specification and examples are defined here. These definitions should be read in light of the rest of the invention and understood as by a person skilled in the art. The terms used here have meanings recognized and known to a person skilled in the art; however, for convenience and completeness, specific terms and their meanings are set out below.

[0014] The terms “include” and “comprising” are used in an inclusive and open sense, meaning that additional elements may be included. They are not intended to be interpreted as “consists solely of”.

[0015] The expression "at least one" is used to mean one or more and therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.

[0016] Throughout this patent memorandum, unless the context otherwise requires, the term "include", and variations such as "includes" and "comprising", shall be understood to imply the inclusion of any element or step or group of elements or steps stated, but not the exclusion of any other element or step or group of elements or steps.

[0017] The term "including" is used to mean "including, but not limited to". "Including" and "including, but not limited to" are used interchangeably.

[0018] The term “INCI” is an abbreviation for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, which is a system of names provided by the International Nomenclature Committee of the Personal Care Products Council to describe the ingredients of personal care products.

[0019] The term "aliphatic" refers to a linear branched acyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group which may optionally include a heteroatom and optionally be substituted.

[0020] All percentages, parts, and ratios are based on the total weight of the compositions of the present invention, unless otherwise stated. Ratios, concentrations, quantities, and other numerical data may be presented here in a range format. It should be understood that this range format is used solely for convenience and conciseness and should be interpreted flexibly as including not only the numerical values ​​explicitly cited as the range limits, but also as including all individual numerical values ​​or subranges encompassed within that range. if each numerical value and subrange were explicitly quoted. For example, a percentage range by weight of about 0.01% to 20% should be interpreted as including not only the explicitly quoted limits of about 0.01% to about 20%, but also as including subranges, such as 0.02% to 0.05%, 1% to 10%, and so on, as well as individual quantities, including fractional quantities, within the specified ranges, such as 1.5%, 5.3%, and 9.25%, for example.

[0021] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meanings as those commonly understood by a person skilled in the art of this invention. Although all processes and materials similar or equivalent to those described herein may be used in the practice or testing of the invention, preferred processes and materials are hereby described.

[0022] The present invention shall not be limited in scope by the specific embodiments described herein, which are intended for illustrative purposes only. Functionally equivalent products, compositions, and processes clearly fall within the scope of the invention as described herein.

[0023] The embodiments presented here propose a cosmetic composition, in particular a transparent aqueous composition. The composition of the present invention provides care for keratinous matter, particularly skin. The composition is useful for treating acne, minimizing pores, reducing sebum levels, and / or reducing skin shine. In particular, the present invention provides a transparent aqueous composition comprising beta-hydroxy acids, alcohol, polyoxybutylene, polyoxyethylene, polyoxypropylene, glycerol, a hydrophilic polymer, and a thickener. The composition of the present invention is stable and comprises a higher quantity of beta-hydroxy acid in aqueous form. Thus, the beta-hydroxy acid is available to the skin in higher quantities, resulting in beneficial effects by providing superior sensory effects and performance.The composition of the present invention further offers improved sensory effects such as reduced stickiness and good fluidity, and also provides superior performance such as acne reduction, pore minimization, reduced sebum levels, and reduced skin shine. Accordingly, the transparent composition of the present invention comprises at least one beta-hydroxy acid, at least one alcohol, at least one polyoxybutylene, polyoxyethylene, polyoxypropylene, or glycerol, at least one hydrophilic polymer, at least one thickener comprising a combination of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, and pullulan, and at least one hydrotropic agent.

[0024] The embodiments herein also propose a method for treating keratinous material, preferably skin, by applying the composition on keratinous material, preferably skin. Embodiments relating to the use of the composition to provide care and treat keratinous material, preferably skin, are also proposed here. Composition

[0025] The embodiments hereof propose a transparent composition comprising at least one beta-hydroxy acid, at least one alcohol, at least one polyoxybutylene, polyoxyethylene, polyoxypropylene, or glycerol, at least one hydrophilic polymer, at least one thickener comprising a combination of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, and pullulan, and at least one hydrotrope. The thickener of the composition also includes a phospholipid and / or a lysophospholipid.

[0026] The composition according to the embodiments herein is an aqueous, anti-acne, sebum-controlling, pore-reducing composition which has the advantages of providing a light, non-sticky and aqueous texture to the skin on which it is applied, and is a preferred cosmetic composition for consumers, preferably for consumers with acne, oily skin and open pores. Beta-hydroxy acid

[0027] According to one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one beta-hydroxy acid.

[0028] The expression "beta-hydroxy acid", according to the present invention, refers to a carboxylic acid having a hydroxyl functional group and a carboxylic functional group separated by two carbon atoms.

[0029] In one embodiment, the beta-hydroxy acid is chosen from salicylic acid and its derivatives of formula (I):

[0030] wherein, R is a linear, branched or cyclic saturated aliphatic group or an unsaturated aliphatic group containing one or a number of double bonds, which may or may not be conjugated, these groups containing from 2 to 22, preferably from 3 to 11 carbon atoms and being able to be substituted, for example, by at least one substituent selected from (a) halogen atoms, (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified by an acid having 1 to 6 carbon atoms or (d) a carboxyl functional group which is free or esterified by a lower alcohol having 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0031] R' is a hydroxy group or an ester functional group of formula (II): ----O---C---Ri (II) O

[0032] wherein Ri is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched aliphatic group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0033] In one embodiment, the composition comprises at least two beta-hydroxy acids selected from salicylic acid, its derivatives of formula (I), or their combinations.

[0034] In one embodiment, the beta-hydroxy acid is selected from salicylic acid and its derivatives including 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid (capryloyl salicylic acid), 5-n-decanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid and 4-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid.

[0035] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least two beta-hydroxy acids selected from salicylic acid, 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-decanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid, or 4-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid.

[0036] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention includes salicylic acid, capryloyl salicylic acid or one of their combinations.

[0037] In an even more preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention includes a combination of salicylic acid and capryloyl salicylic acid.

[0038] These beta-hydroxy acids are keratolytic agents, particularly useful for the treatment of acne and for improving the overall texture and quality of the skin.

[0039] In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one beta-hydroxy acid which may be in an amount of 0.05% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0040] In some embodiments, the composition according to the present invention may include at least one beta-hydroxy acid which may be in an amount of 8.0% by weight or less, preferably 7.0% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0041] In a preferred embodiment, the beta-hydroxy acid in the composition is present in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 7% by weight. weight, and more preferably 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0042] In a preferred embodiment, the salicylic acid in the composition is present in an amount ranging from 0.05 to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 7% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 5%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0043] In a preferred embodiment, the capryloyl salicylic acid in the composition is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 0.5%, preferably from 0.05 to 1% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Alcohol

[0044] According to one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one alcohol.

[0045] The term "alcohol" according to the present invention refers to linear or branched hydrocarbons, saturated or unsaturated with at least one hydroxyl group, or to dialkylenes with at least one hydroxyl group.

[0046] In one embodiment, the alcohol is chosen from among the C1-C4 alcohols. In a preferred embodiment, the alcohol is ethanol.

[0047] In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one alcohol which may be in an amount of 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0048] In some embodiments, the composition of the present invention may include at least one alcohol which may be in an amount of 20.0% by weight or less, preferably 15.0% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0049] In a preferred embodiment, the alcohol in the composition is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0050] Polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene β-cerol

[0051] According to one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol.

[0052] In one embodiment, polyoxybutylene, polyoxyethylene, polyoxypropylene, and glycerol are selected in the formula (III) shown below

[0053] Gly-{O(PO)s(EO)t-(BO)uH}3 (III)

[0054] in which, Gly designates a residue obtained by elimination of hydroxyl groups from glycerin;

[0055] - PO designates an oxypropylene group;

[0056] - EO designates an oxyethylene group;

[0057] - s and t denote the average number of moles of addition of PO and EO, respectively, and have a value ranging from 1 to 50; the weight ratio between PO and EO (PO / EO) ranges from 1 / 5 to 5 / 1;

[0058] - BO designates an oxyalkylene group having 4 carbon atoms; and

[0059] - u denotes the average number of moles of BO addition, and ranges from 0.5 to 5.

[0060] In certain embodiments, polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol is chosen according to formula (III)

[0061] - s goes from 2 to 15, preferably from 3 to 7;

[0062] -1 goes from 3 to 20, preferably from 6 to 10;

[0063] - u goes from 1 to 5, preferably from 2 to 4.

[0064] The polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol represented by formula (III) can be obtained by adding propylene oxide and ethylene oxide to glycerin, in the ratio of 3 to 150 molar equivalents of each of the propylene oxide and ethylene oxide with respect to glycerin, and then by adding the alkylene oxide having 4 carbon atoms in the ratio of 1.5 to 15 molar equivalents thereof with respect to glycerin.

[0065] In the case of the addition of the aforementioned alkylene oxides to glycerin, the addition reactions are carried out with an alkali catalyst, a phase-transfer catalyst, a Lewis acid catalyst, or similar. In general, an alkali catalyst such as potassium hydroxide is preferably used.

[0066] In some embodiments, the polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol represented by formula (III) is chosen from those obtained by adding 6 to 10 mol of ethylene oxide and 3 to 7 mol of propylene oxide to glycerin, and then by adding 2 to 4 mol of butylene oxide.

[0067] In a preferred embodiment, the polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol represented by formula (III) is the PEG / PPG / polybutylene glycol-8 / 5 / 3 glycerin obtained by adding 8 mol of ethylene oxide and 5 mol of propylene oxide to the glycerin, and then by adding 3 mol of butylene oxide.

[0068] PEG / PPG / polybutylene glycol-8 / 5 / 3 glycerin is commercially available under the trade name WILBRIDE S-753 from NOF Corporation.

[0069] In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol which may be in an amount of 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0070] In some embodiments, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol which may be in an amount of 20.0% by weight or less, preferably 15.0% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0071] According to a preferred embodiment, polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Hydrophilic polymer

[0072] According to one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one hydrophilic polymer.

[0073] The expression "hydrophilic polymer" refers to non-hydrophobic and non-amphiphilic polymers, preferably to acrylic polymers.

[0074] In one embodiment, the hydrophilic polymer comprises at least one monomer bearing a sulfonic group, in particular polymers obtained from an ethylenically unsaturated monomer bearing a sulfonic group, which may be in free form or partially or totally neutralized.

[0075] In some embodiments, the hydrophilic polymers are partially or totally neutralized with a mineral base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or aqueous ammonia, or an organic base such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine, basic amino acids, for example arginine and lysine, and mixtures of these compounds. They are generally neutralized.

[0076] The term “neutralized” refers to polymers that are totally or almost totally neutralized, that is to say, neutralized to at least 90%.

[0077] The hydrophilic polymers used in the composition generally have a number average molecular weight ranging from 1000 to 20,000,000 g / mol, preferably ranging from 20,000 to 5,000,000 g / mol and even more preferably from 100,000 to 1,500,000 g / mol.

[0078] The hydrophilic polymers according to the invention may be cross-linked or non-cross-linked. The hydrophilic polymer is selected from (meth)acrylamido(Ci-C22)alkylsulfonic acids, which may be in a partially or totally neutralized form.

[0079] In one embodiment, the hydrophilic polymer is chosen from (meth)acrylamido(Ci-C22)alkylsulfonic acids, preferably from acrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidoethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS), 2-methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-trimethylpentanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamidododecylsulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptanesulfonic acid or combinations thereof.

[0080] In a preferred embodiment, the hydrophilic polymer is acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid or 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS), more preferably 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS).

[0081] In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one hydrophilic polymer which may be in an amount of 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0082] In some embodiments, the composition of the present invention may include at least one hydrophilic polymer which may be in an amount of 20.0% by weight or less, preferably 15.0% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0083] In a preferred embodiment, the hydrophilic polymer is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and much more preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Thickener

[0084] According to one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises a thickener comprising a combination of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum and pullulan.

[0085] In one embodiment, the thickener in the composition is a combination of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum and pullulan.

[0086] In some embodiments, the thickener may comprise a phospholipid.

[0087] In some embodiments, the thickener may comprise a lysophospholipid.

[0088] Sclerotium gum is a very high molecular weight homopolysaccharide obtained by fermentation of a glucose-based substrate by the filamentous fungus Sclerotium rolfssii. The backbone of sclerotium gum consists of [3-D] glucose residues linked by [3(1-3)] glycosidic bonds to a [3(1-6)-D-glucose side chain every three glucose residues, which prevents chain aggregation. Sclerotium gum is also called sclerotium gum(s) or scleroglucan gum or scleroglucan and yields glucose only after Hydrolysis. Sclerotium gum is commercially available and, in particular, is marketed under the name ACTIGUM CS by SANOFI BIO INDUSTRIES, and specifically ACTIGUM CS 11, and under the names AMIGEL and AMIGUM by ALBAN MULLER INTERNATIONAL, or alternatively under the name Tinoderm SG-L by BASF. This sclerotium gum can also be modified, in particular by enzymatic treatments or by the use of modified strains. However, in a preferred embodiment, the sclerotium gum is not modified.

[0089] In one embodiment, the sclerotium gum is present in an amount ranging from 15 to 85% by weight, and preferably from 15 to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the thickener.

[0090] The pullulan present in the thickener of the composition is a polysaccharide and is obtained by the fermentation of starch by Aureobasidium pullulans. The pullulan used in the composition is produced under the reference Pullulan PF 20 by the Hayashibara Group in Japan, or otherwise under the name Pullulan by Sigma-Aldrich.

[0091] In one embodiment, pullulan is present in an amount ranging from 5 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the thickener.

[0092] The xanthan gum present in the composition is a high molecular weight polysaccharide. The xanthan gum backbone is formed of D-glucose units to which side chains are attached, one side chain for every two glucose residues. The side chain is composed of three sugars: α-D-mannose, α-glucuronic acid, and a terminal α-D-mannose. These xanthan gums are obtained by the fermentation of a hydrocarbon substrate by the bacterium Xanthomonas campestris. The resulting mixture is purified with alcohol (ethanol or isopropanol), pressed, dried, and ground. The resulting powder can be sterilized by irradiation or high pressure.Xanthan gum is commercially available and marketed, in particular, under the names KELTROL, KELTROL T, KELTROL TF, KELTROL BT, KELTROL CG-BT, KELTROL RD, and KELTROL CG by NUTRASWEET KELCO; under the names RHODICARE S, RHODICARE H, and RHODICARE XC by RHODIA CHIMIE; under the name Satiaxane CX 91 by the Cargill Group; and under the name Rheocare XG by BASF. Xanthan gum can also be modified to facilitate its use. This type of gum (INCI name = dehydroxanthan gum) is marketed under the name Amaze XT by Akzo Nobel. Other modified xanthan gums exist and can potentially be obtained, particularly through enzymatic treatments or the use of modified strains. However, in a preferred embodiment, the xanthan gum is not modified. .

[0093] In one embodiment, xanthan gum is present in an amount ranging from 5 to 50% by weight, and preferably from 10 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the thickener.

[0094] The phospholipids and / or lysophospholipids present in the thickener are lecithin and / or lysolecithin. Lecithin can be obtained from various sources, particularly soybeans, sunflower seeds, milk, eggs, rice, corn, and the like. Commercially available lecithins include Solec SF 10 from The Solae Company, Emulmetik 300 and Solec from Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, or from Cargill, Natterman, or Lipoid. Lecithins are generally obtained from oil, which can be extracted from seeds by pressing or using suitable solvents. Once the oil is obtained, the lecithin is extracted, for example, by degumming the oil. It can then be filtered. Advantageously, the lecithin contains at least 60% polar lipids that are insoluble in acetone. It contains various phospholipids, including phosphatidylcholine, phosphatidylethanolamine, phosphatidylinositol and phosphatidic acid.Hydrogenated lecithin can be obtained through various processes. For example, one method involves dissolving lecithin in a solvent system and then hydrogenating it for 1 to 20 hours under 10 to 200 kg / cm² of hydrogen pressure at a temperature of 50–90 °C in the presence of a catalyst. Hydrogenation improves the stability of lecithin, particularly with regard to oxidation and other degradation. These hydrogenated lecithins are available from Lucas Meyer Cosmetics under the references Emulmetik 320 and Emulmetik 950 (this list is not exhaustive). Other hydrogenated lecithins are available from Natterman and Lipoid. Lysolecithin, on the other hand, can be obtained, for example, by the enzymatic hydrolysis of phospholipids, resulting in the removal of one or two fatty acid chains. These processes are well known to those in the trade.Lysolecithin is also commercially available, particularly under the name SLP-LPC70 from Tsuji Oil Mill Co., Ltd, Kyowa lysolecithin from Kyowa Hakko Kogyo Co., Ltd, or under the names Emulmetik 120, Emulmetik 350 and Emulmetik 355 from Lucas Meyer Cosmetics.

[0095] Preferably, the phospholipids and / or lysophospholipids are lecithin. The lecithin may be used in hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated form, preferably unsaturated. The lecithin may also be in the form of lysolecithin. In a preferred embodiment, the thickener of the composition contains unsaturated lysolecithin. It may comprise unsaturated lysolecithin in purified form or as a mixture with other phospholipids and / or lysophospholipids, in particular lecithin.

[0096] In one embodiment, the phospholipid is present in an amount ranging from 15 to 70% by weight, and preferably from 15 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the thickener.

[0097] In a preferred embodiment, the thickener is a combination of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, pullulan, and phospholipid. In a further preferred embodiment, the thickener is a combination of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, pullulan, and lecithin.

[0098] In one embodiment, the thickener comprises a) 15 to 70% by weight of phospholipid; b) 15 to 85% by weight of sclerotium gum; c) 5 to 50% by weight of xanthan gum; and d) 5 to 30% by weight of pullulan.

[0099] In a preferred embodiment, the thickener comprises a) 15 to 50% by weight of phospholipid; b) 15 to 45% by weight of sclerotium gum; c) 10 to 50% by weight of xanthan gum; and d) 5 to 20% by weight of pullulan. In a preferred embodiment, the thickener is the product SILGEL® marketed by LUCAS MEYER COSMETICS.

[0100] In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one thickener which may be in an amount of 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0101] In some embodiments, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one thickener which may be in an amount of 20.0% by weight or less, preferably 15.0% by weight or less, and more preferably 10.0% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0102] In a preferred embodiment, the thickener in the composition is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, much more preferably from 0.1% to 5%, most preferably from 0.15% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Hydrotrope

[0103] According to one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one hydrotrope.

[0104] In some embodiments, the composition may include one or more hydrotropes.

[0105] Most hydrotropes have an aromatic structure with an ionic fraction, while some of them are linear alkyl chains, as listed below. Although hydrotropes are substantially similar to surfactants and have the ability to reduce surface tension, their small hydrophobic motifs and relatively shorter alkyl chain distinguish them as a distinct class. of amphiphiles. Therefore, their hydrophobicity is not sufficient to create well-organized self-associating structures, such as micelles, even at high concentrations.

[0106] Common hydrotropic molecules include: sodium 1,3-benzenedisulfonate, sodium benzoate, sodium 4-pyridinecarboxylate, sodium salicylate, sodium benzene sulfonate, caffeine, sodium p-toluene sulfonate, sodium butyl monoglycolsulfate, 4-aminobenzoic acid HCl, sodium cumene sulfonate, N,N-diethyl nicotinamide, IV-picolylnicotinamide, IV-allylnicotinamide, 2-methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine, resorcinol, butylurea, pyrogallol, Af-picolylacetamide 3,5, procaine HCl, proline HCl, nicotinamide, pyridine, 3-picolylamine, sodium ibuprofen, sodium xylenesulfonate, ethyl carbamate, pyridoxal hydrochloride, sodium benzoate, 2-pyrrolidone, ethylurea, N, AM i met hy I acct ami de, A-methylacetamide and isoniazid.

[0107] Cosmetically acceptable hydrotropes refer to hydrotropes that can be used in cosmetic compositions. Although hydrotropes represent a broad class of molecules used in various fields, cosmetic applications will be limited due to safety and tolerability restrictions. Hydrotropes suitable for use in cosmetics include, but are not limited to, vitamin B3, caffeine, sodium PCA (sodium salt of carbonic acid pyrrolidone), sodium salicylate, urea, and hydroxyethyl urea. The suitability of hydrotropes for use in cosmetic compositions can be determined using tests known in the art for determining skin effects and human toxicity. Although these hydrotropes are given by way of example, it would be appreciated if other hydrotropes compatible with cosmetic applications known in the art could be used.In some cases, vitamin B3 is chosen from the group consisting of niacinamide, nicotinic acid, nicotinic alcohol, their esters or salts, or combinations thereof.

[0108] In one embodiment, the hydrotrope is selected from vitamin B3, caffeine, sodium salt of carbonic acid pyrrolidone, sodium salicylate, urea, hydroxyethylurea, or combinations thereof, preferably selected from niacinamide, caffeine, or one of their combinations and more preferably niacinamide.

[0109] In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one hydrotrope which may be in an amount of 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0110] In certain embodiments, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one hydrotrope which may be in an amount of 20.0% by weight or less, preferably 15.0% by weight or less, and more preferably 10.0% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0111] In a preferred embodiment, the hydrotrope in the composition is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Water

[0112] According to one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises water.

[0113] In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention is a transparent aqueous composition.

[0114] In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises water which may be in an amount of 60% by weight or more, and preferably 65% ​​by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0115] In some embodiments, the composition of the present invention comprises water which may be in an amount of 95% by weight or less, and preferably 85% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0116] In a preferred embodiment, the water in the composition is present in an amount ranging from 60 to 95% by weight, and preferably from 65 to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Glycol

[0117] According to one embodiment, the composition of the present invention may optionally include at least one glycol.

[0118] In one embodiment, glycol includes in particular glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol; glycol ethers such as mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol (Ci-C4)alkyl ethers, mono-, di- or triethylene glycol (Ci-C4)alkyl ethers, or combinations thereof.

[0119] In a preferred embodiment, the glycol in the composition is a combination of glycerin, dipropylene glycol and / or butylene glycol.

[0120] In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one glycol which may be in an amount of 2% by weight or more, and preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0121] In some embodiments, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one glycol which may be in an amount of 20% by weight or less, and preferably 15% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0122] In a preferred embodiment, the glycol in the composition is present in an amount ranging from 2 to 20% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic additives

[0123] According to one embodiment, the composition of the present invention may optionally include at least one cosmetic additive.

[0124] The expression "cosmetic additive" refers to cosmetically acceptable active ingredients, commonly used in the field, particularly suitable for keratinous materials.

[0125] In one embodiment, the cosmetic additive may be skin care actives, emollients, carriers, adjuvants which are known in the art to be compatible with keratinous material and are cosmetically acceptable, for example, fillers or viscosity-increasing agents, gelling agents, additional gums, additional resins, additional thickening agents, structuring agents such as waxes, dispersants, antioxidants, essential oils, preservatives, chelating agents, perfumes, neutralizers, antiseptics, additional UV filtering agents, cosmetic actives such as vitamins, moisturizers or collagen-protecting agents, or combinations thereof.

[0126] Cosmetic additives, in various embodiments herein, may be present independently in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0127] In a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention contains less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, and more preferably less than 1% by weight of a surfactant. In a still more preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention does not contain any surfactant. Preparation of the composition

[0128] In one embodiment, the present invention provides a process for preparing the composition. The compositions according to the invention can be manufactured by known processes, generally used in the cosmetic or dermatological field.

[0129] The process includes mixing the essential and optional components described above by any known process.

[0130] In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention can be prepared by a process including the steps of: a) mixing at least one beta-hydroxy acid with water and optionally with at least one glycol and / or other cosmetic additives, and heating the mixture to a temperature in the range of 60 to 80 °C; and b) sequential addition of at least one polyoxybutylene, polyoxyethylene, polyoxypropylene, or glycerol, at least one thickener, and at least one hydrophilic polymer, and cooling the mixture to a temperature in the range of 40 to 60 °C. The process further includes the addition of at least one hydrotrope and lowering the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, followed by mixing in at least one alcohol, optionally at least one other beta-hydroxy acid, and optionally other cosmetic additives under stirring at a temperature in the range of 25 to 35 °C, to obtain a homogeneous, transparent composition.

[0131] The composition, according to the present invention, can be in various forms such as gel, solution, cream, serum or lotion.

[0132] The composition according to the present invention has a pH of 4.8 or more, and more preferably of 5 or more.

[0133] The composition according to the present invention has a pH of 5.4 or less, and more preferably of 5.2 or less.

[0134] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention has a pH in a range of 4.8 to 5.4.

[0135] The composition of the present invention is a transparent composition. The term "transparent composition" means a composition which transmits at least 40% of light at a wavelength of 700 nm without scattering it, when said transparency is measured according to the method disclosed herein.

[0136] In a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention transmits 40% to 100% of light at a wavelength of 700 nm without scattering it.

[0137] The composition of the present invention has a viscosity in a range of 10 UD to 80 UD, preferably in a range of 10 to 20 UD, when said viscosity is measured according to the method disclosed herein. Method / Use of the composition

[0138] In one embodiment, the present invention proposes a method for treating a keratinous material, the method comprising applying the composition of the present invention to the keratinous material, preferably the skin.

[0139] In certain embodiments, the present invention proposes a non-therapeutic method for treating keratinous material, comprising applying the composition of the present invention to the keratinous material, preferably to the skin.

[0140] In another embodiment, the present invention proposes using the composition to provide skincare and / or treat acne. The composition of the present invention offers improved hydration and brightening effects on the skin. Advantageously, the composition of the present invention is useful for to minimize pores, reduce sebum levels and / or reduce skin shine. More advantageously, the composition of the present invention significantly reduces the visibility of fine lines and pores, and further improves skin plumpness, smooth skin texture, radiance, clarity and hydration.

[0141] Although the subject has been described in great detail with reference to certain examples and implementations thereof, it is understood that other implementations are possible and included within the scope of the present invention. EXAMPLES

[0142] The invention will now be illustrated by examples of operation, which are intended to illustrate the functioning of the invention and are not intended to impose restrictive limitations on the scope of the present invention. Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as that commonly understood by a person skilled in the art of this invention. Although processes and materials similar or equivalent to those described herein may be used in the practice of the disclosed processes and compositions, examples of processes, devices, and materials are described herein. It should be understood that this invention is not limited to the compositions, processes, and experimental conditions described in particular, to the extent that such processes and conditions may be applicable. The present invention will be described in more detail by means of examples.However, these examples should not be interpreted as limiting the scope of the present invention. Example 1 Cosmetic composition

[0143] Composition Cl (according to the invention) was prepared by mixing the components sequentially in the specified weights (% by weight) as listed in Table 1 below.

[0144] The components of phase A were mixed and heated to a temperature of 65 to 75 °C, then the components of phases B, C, and D were successively mixed and stirred until homogeneous. The resulting mixture was cooled to a temperature of 45 to 60 °C, and then the component of phase E was added. The mixture was then cooled to room temperature, and to this cooled mixture, the components of phases F, G, and H were then successively mixed at a temperature of 25 to 35 °C to obtain a homogeneous composition.

[0145] Similarly, compositions C2, C3 and C4 were prepared using the corresponding weight components as listed in Table 1 below.

[0146] [Tables 1] Phase Components / INCI (% by weight) Cl C2 C3 C4 A Glycol Dipropylene glycol (Dipropylene Glycol) 3 3 3 3 A Butylene glycol (Butylene Glycol) 3 3 3 3 A Glycerin (Glycerin) 5 5 5 5 A Beta-hydroxy acid Salicylic acid (Salicylic Acid) 2 2 2 2 A Water 68.7 68.9 68.4 68.4 A Chelating agent 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 A Preservative 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 B pH adjuster 0.59 0.59 0.59 0.59 C Polyoxybutylene Polyoxyethylene Polyoxypropylene Glycerol PEG / PPG / Polybutylene Glycol-8 / 5 / 3 Glycerin (PE G / PPG / Polybutylene Glycol-8 / 5 / 3 Glycerin) 2 2 2 2 D Hydrophilic polymer Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate (AMPS) 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 D Thickener Xanthan Gum - 0.1 0.1 0.1 D Hydroxypropyl Guar - - 0.5 - D Sodium Acrylates Copolymer (and) Lecithin - - - 0.5 D Xanthan Gum (and) Sclerotium Gum (and) Lecithin (and) Pullulan 0,23 E Hydrotrope Niacinamide 2 2 2 2 , F Active ingredient (cosmetic additive) 4.81 4.81 4.81 4.81 G Cosmetic additive Perfume (Fragrance) 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 H Alcohol Ethanol 7 7 7 7 H Beta-hydroxy acid Capryloyl salicylic acid 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Example 2 Composition evaluation

[0147] The compositions prepared in Example 1 were subjected to a series of evaluations to measure their pH, transparency, viscosity, and stickiness. The performance of the compositions was also measured by determining skin color, skin hydration, and the reduction of sebum levels. Composition transparency

[0148] The transparency of the compositions was determined by measuring the transmittance using a UV-Vis 1800 spectrophotometer (Shimadzu) and the measurement procedure is as follows.

[0149] The undiluted sample composition was poured into a square spectrophotometer cuvette with sides of 10 mm, and the light transmitted through the sample composition was measured using the spectrophotometer at a wavelength of 700 nm. The measurement was performed in transmission mode, and the percentage of light transmitted through the sample composition at a wavelength of 700 nm was then determined. A reference base was established with distilled water. The test composition was considered transparent when the transmittance reached at least 40%, preferably at least 50%, of light at a wavelength of 700 nm without scattering. Viscosity measurements

[0150] The viscosity of the compositions was measured using a Rhéomat 200 PLUS viscometer equipped with a measuring system comprising a pin 2 (M2) and its corresponding cup, and a thermostatically controlled bath.

[0151] The measurement was carried out as follows: Pin 2 was installed in the viscometer and the machine was set to zero. The cup was filled with the composition under test and then placed in the thermostatically controlled bath. Pin 2 was then immersed in the cup, and the temperature was increased to 25 °C. The viscosity measurement was taken when pin 2 reached the correct temperature. The measurement was recorded after 10 minutes. Evaluation of sticky texture

[0152] 0.1 mL of the test composition was applied to half of the faces of Trained panel consumers (16 women). Stickiness was assessed immediately after product application and again 2 minutes later. Stickiness was rated on a scale of 0 to 15, with 15 being the stickiest. Performance evaluation

[0153] A study was conducted on 60 women aged 20 to 40 years, from all ethnic backgrounds. The subjects participated in a baseline visit on day 0, then in 3 additional visits on days 7 (7 days), 14 (14 days), and 28 (28 days – end of the study). After the baseline visit, the subjects applied the composition according to the invention once a day (at night): after washing their face with a regular facial cleanser and patting it dry, the subjects applied the composition according to the invention evenly with their index finger using circular motions for approximately 1 minute or until the composition was completely absorbed by the skin.

[0154] At each visit (Day 0, Day 7, Day 14, Day 28) and before any assessment, subjects washed their faces with water only and without applying any product to their faces before the visit. Subjects were then acclimatized for at least 15 minutes to a temperature of 20 to 23 °C and a humidity of 40 to 60%.

[0155] The skin condition of the subjects' facial skin was then assessed by an investigator, and a clinical score was assigned to the following parameters: fine lines, skin plumpness, skin hydration, skin smoothness, (visual) radiance, luminosity and radiance, skin clarity, and pore visibility. Each parameter was scored on a scale from 0 to 9.

[0156] In addition, the subject's occasional skin sebum level was measured using a Sebumeter® SM 815 (Courage & Khazaka) on the forehead, which allows measurement of cutaneous sebum using a special sebum-sensitive tape that becomes transparent upon contact with cutaneous sebum (measurement based on photometry of grease spots).

[0157] Skin color was measured using a Minolta CM700d spectrocolorimeter®, using the L*a*b* color system (CIE lab 1976). Skin hydration level was measured using a Corneometer® CM825 (Courage & Khazaka, Germany) to determine the moisture level of the outermost layers of the stratum corneum. Results

[0158] The Cl (according to the invention) and C2-C4 (comparative) compositions were all found to be transparent and to have a viscosity between 10 and 20 UD.

[0159] However, the Cl composition according to the invention proved to be slippery during application and non-sticky after application, while the compositions Comparative C2-C4 products were considered sticky during and / or after application.

[0160] Furthermore, the Cl composition according to the invention was considered to be more aqueous and resulted in a sensation of rapid absorption on the skin, while the comparative C2-C4 compositions showed slower absorption on the skin.

[0161] The pH of the Cl composition was further measured and was found to be in the pH range of 4.8 to 5.4.

[0162] Further evaluations conducted on the Cl composition demonstrated that said composition was capable of treating acne while providing improved hydration to the skin. The Cl composition also proved effective in reducing the appearance of fine lines and pores, reducing sebum levels, and reducing skin shine. Finally, the Cl composition was found to significantly improve skin plumpness, smooth skin texture, radiance, clarity, and hydration.

Claims

1. Demands Transparent composition including: a. at least one beta-hydroxy acid, preferably chosen from salicylic acid and its derivatives of formula (I): in which, R is a linear, branched or cyclic saturated aliphatic group or an unsaturated aliphatic group containing one or a number of double bonds, which may be conjugated or not, these groups containing from 2 to 22, preferably from 3 to 11 carbon atoms and being able to be substituted, for example, by at least one substituent selected from (a) halogen atoms, (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified by an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or (d) a carboxyl functional group which is free or esterified by an inferior alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; R' is a hydroxy group or an ester functional group of formula (II): --o—c—R^n) O in which Ri is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched aliphatic group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms; b. at least one C1-C4 alcohol, preferably ethanol; c. at least one polyoxybutylene, polyoxyethylene, polyoxypropylene, or glycerol, selected from formula (III) shown below: Gly-{O(PO)s(EO)t-(BO)uH}3 (III) wherein, - Gly refers to a residue obtained by removing hydroxyl groups from glycerin; - PO designates an oxypropylene group; - EO designates an oxyethylene group; - s and t denote the average number of moles of addition of PO and EO, respectively, and have a value ranging from 1 to 50; the weight ratio between PO and EO (PO / EO) ranges from 1 / 5 to 5 / 1; - BO denotes an oxyalkylene group having 4 carbon atoms; and - u denotes the average number of moles of addition of BO, and ranges from 0.5 to 5; d. at least one hydrophilic polymer selected from (meth)acrylamido(C1-C22)alkylsulfonic acids, preferably from acrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidoethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-trimethylpentanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamidododecylsulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptanesulfonic acid, or combinations thereof; e. at least one thickener comprising a combination of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum and pullulan; and f.at least one hydrotrope chosen from vitamin B3, caffeine, sodium salt of carbonic acid pyrrolidone, sodium salicylate, urea, hydroxyethylurea, or combinations thereof, and preferably chosen from niacinamide, caffeine, or one of their combinations.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the thickener comprises a) 15 to 50 wt% of phospholipid; b) 15 to 45 wt% of sclerotium gum; c) 10 to 50 wt% of xanthan gum; and d) 5 to 20 wt% of pullulan.

3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2, wherein the thickener is present in an amount from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the beta-hydroxy acid is present in an amount from 0.05% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 7% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein alcohol is present in an amount from 0.1 to 20%, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol is present in an amount from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the hydrophilic polymer is present in an amount from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the hydrotrope is present in an amount from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. A non-therapeutic cosmetic process for treating keratinous material, preferably skin, the process comprising applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 to keratinous material, preferably skin.