STABLE COMPOSITION WITH EXCELLENT TEXTURE

Abstract

STABLE COMPOSITION WITH EXCELLENT TEXTURE The present invention relates to a composition comprising: (a) at least two fatty acid polyglyceryl esters; (b) at least one jojoba ester wax; (c) at least one C12-C24 fatty acid ester of a C2-C24 polyol; and (d) at least one carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant selected from amino acids modified with at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon-based chain and salts thereof, wherein at least one of (a) at least two fatty acid polyglyceryl esters has at least two hydroxyl groups in its polyglyceryl moiety. The composition according to the present invention is stable and can provide excellent texture, with both good penetration and rich feel. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: STABLE COMPOSITION WITH EXCELLENT TEXTURE Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for the skin which is stable and can provide an excellent texture such as a good feeling of penetration and a rich feeling. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] There are many needs for cosmetic skin products, such as milky lotions, which are stable without causing phase separation and the like.

[0003] On the other hand, consumers are also looking for skin cosmetic products that can also provide excellent texture such as good penetrating feeling during application to the skin and rich feeling after application to the skin. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

[0004] However, a good penetrating feeling and a rich feeling are often incompatible with each other. In other words, it is difficult for a cosmetic product having a good penetrating feeling to provide a rich feeling, and it is difficult for a cosmetic product having a rich feeling to provide a good penetrating feeling. Therefore, it is not easy for a cosmetic product to provide an excellent texture, with both a good penetrating feeling and a rich feeling.

[0005] An objective of the present invention is to provide a stable composition which can provide an excellent texture, with both a good penetration feeling and a rich feel.

[0006] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for the skin, comprising: a. at least two polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids; b. at least one jojoba ester wax; c. at least one C12-C24 fatty acid ester of a C2-C24 polyol; and d. at least one anionic carboxylic or carboxylate surfactant chosen from amino acids modified with at least one C8-C3o hydrocarbon-based chain and their salts,

[0007] in which

[0008] at least one of (a) at least two fatty acid polyglyceryl esters has at least two hydroxyl groups in its polyglyceryl moiety.

[0009] Each of the (a) fatty acid polyglyceryl esters may have an HLB value of 5 or more, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 7 or more.

[0010] The (a) fatty acid polyglyceryl esters may comprise a combination of:

[0011] (al) a first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having an HLB value of 5 to less than 11, preferably of 6 to less than 11, and more preferably of 7 to less than 11; and

[0012] (a2) a second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having an HLB value of 11 to 17, preferably from 11 to 16, and more preferably from 11 to 15,

[0013] in which

[0014] each of the (a1) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester and the (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester has at least two hydroxyl groups in its polyglyceryl moiety.

[0015] The total amount of (a) fatty acid polyglyceryl esters in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0016] The (b) jojoba ester wax may be selected from the fully hydrogenated jojoba ester of formula (II):

[0017] R1-COO-CH2-R1 (II)

[0018] in which

[0019] R1 is CH3-(CH2)y-, and y is 16, 18, 20 or 22.

[0020] The amount of the (b) jojoba ester wax(es) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0021] The (c) C12-C24 fatty acid ester of a C2-C24 polyol may be chosen from glyceryl laurate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl palmitate and a mixture thereof.

[0022] The amount of the (c) C12-C24 fatty acid ester(s) of a C2-C24 polyol in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0023] The (d) carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant chosen from amino acids modified with at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon-based chain and their salts can be represented by the following formula (III): (HD

[0024] in which: • Z represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, • X is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; • n is equal to 0 or 1; • Y is a group selected from a hydrogen atom and a group -CH3, -CH(CH3)2, -CH2CH(CH3)2, -CH(CH3)CH2CH3, -ch2c6h5, -ch2c2h4oh, -ch2 OH, -CH(OH)CH3, -(CH2)4NH2, -(CH2)3NHC(NH)NH2, -CH2C(O)O M+, -(CH 2)2C(O)OH, and -(CH2)2C(O)O M+; and • M is a hydrogen atom or a cation, such as sodium, potassium, ammonium, or triethanolamine.

[0025] The amount of the (d) carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant(s) chosen from amino acids modified with at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon-based chain and their salts in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0026] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (e) at least one saturated C12-C24 fatty alcohol, preferably chosen from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, hexadecyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and a mixture thereof.

[0027] The amount of the saturated C12-C24 fatty alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0028] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (f) water.

[0029] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (g) at least an oil.

[0030] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating a keratinous substance, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous substance. Best mode for carrying out the invention

[0031] After extensive research, the inventors have discovered a new approach to providing a stable composition that can provide excellent texture, with both good penetration and rich feel.

[0032] Thus, one aspect of the present invention is a composition, comprising: a. at least two polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids; b. at least one jojoba ester wax; c. at least one C12-C24 fatty acid ester of a C2-C24 polyol; and d. at least one anionic carboxylic or carboxylate surfactant chosen from amino acids modified with at least one C8-C3o hydrocarbon-based chain and their salts,

[0033] in which

[0034] at least one of (a) at least two fatty acid polyglyceryl esters has at least two hydroxyl groups in its polyglyceryl moiety.

[0035] The composition according to the present invention is stable and can provide an excellent texture, with both a good feeling of penetration and a rich feeling.

[0036] The composition according to the present invention is stable immediately after the preparation of the composition and for a long time after the preparation of the composition, even in the event of temperature changes from a cold temperature to a warm temperature. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention is stable over time and can be stored for a long time even in the event of temperature changes occurring between winter and summer.

[0037] The composition according to the present invention can provide a good sensation of penetration, during and after application, preferably during application.

[0038] The expression "penetration sensation" herein designates a sensation such that the ingredients of the composition penetrate the skin.

[0039] The composition according to the present invention can also provide a rich feeling, during and after application, preferably after application.

[0040] "Rich feel" herein includes a thick, moist feel to the touch, or a greasy or waxy feel to the touch, as well as a springy feel to the fingers as if the composition repels the fingers.

[0041] Accordingly, the composition according to the present invention can also provide excellent texture when used.

[0042] The composition according to the present invention and the like will be explained in a manner more detailed below. [Composition]

[0043] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition and more preferably a cosmetic composition for the skin, comprising: a. at least two polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids; b. at least one jojoba ester wax; c. at least one C12-C24 fatty acid ester of a C2-C24 polyol; and d. at least one anionic carboxylic or carboxylate surfactant chosen from amino acids modified with at least one C8-C3o hydrocarbon-based chain and salts thereof,

[0044] wherein

[0045] at least one of (a) at least two fatty acid polyglyceryl esters has at least two hydroxyl groups in its polyglyceryl moiety. (Polyglyceryl ester of fatty acid)

[0046] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least two fatty acid polyglyceryl esters wherein at least one of (a) at least two fatty acid polyglyceryl esters has at least two hydroxyl groups in its polyglyceryl moiety.

[0047] In other words, the composition according to the present invention comprises two or more fatty acid polyglyceryl esters, wherein one or more fatty acid polyglyceryl esters have at least two hydroxyl groups in their polyglyceryl moiety.

[0048] Each of the (a) polyglyceryl fatty acid esters may be selected from mono-, di-, triesters or more, preferably mono- or diesters, and more preferably monoesters, of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids.

[0049] The fatty acid for the fatty acid fraction or the fatty acid fraction of each of the (a) fatty acid polyglyceryl esters may independently comprise 4 or more carbon atoms, preferably 6 or more carbon atoms, and more preferably 8 or more carbon atoms. The fatty acid for the fatty acid moiety or fatty acid moiety of each of the (a) fatty acid polyglyceryl esters may independently comprise 26 or fewer carbon atoms, preferably 22 or fewer carbon atoms, and more preferably 18 or fewer carbon atoms. The fatty acid for the fatty acid moiety or fatty acid moiety of each of the (a) fatty acid polyglyceryl esters may independently comprise from 4 to 26, preferably from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0050] The fatty acid for the fatty acid moiety of each of the (a) polyglyceryl esters fatty acid may be saturated or unsaturated, and may be selected from caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid and linoleic acid.

[0051] It is preferable that the fatty acid for the fatty acid moiety of at least one of the (a) fatty acid polyglyceryl esters has at least one branched carbon chain. The fatty acid having at least one branched carbon chain may be selected from branched fatty acids such as isostearic acid. It may be more preferable that the fatty acid for the fatty acid moiety of one of the (a) fatty acid polyglyceryl esters is a branched fatty acid.

[0052] It is preferable that each of the (a) fatty acid polyglyceryl esters independently comprises 2 to 10 glycerol units, preferably 3 to 8 glycerol units, and more preferably 4 to 6 glycerol units.

[0053] According to the present invention, at least one of the (a) fatty acid polyglyceryl esters has at least two hydroxyl groups in its polyglyceryl moiety. All of the (a) fatty acid polyglyceryl esters may have at least two hydroxyl groups in their fatty acid polyglyceryl moiety.

[0054] It may be preferable that the composition according to the present invention comprises two fatty acid polyglyceryl esters, wherein one of the two fatty acid polyglyceryl esters has at least two hydroxyl groups in its polyglyceryl moiety. Both (a) fatty acid polyglyceryl esters may have at least two hydroxyl groups in their fatty acid polyglyceryl moiety.

[0055] Examples of (a) fatty acid polyglyceryl esters include PG2 stearate, PG2 isostearate, PG2 oleate, PG3 distearate, PG3 dii-sostearate, PG3 dicocoate, PG5 trioleate, PG10 pentaoleate, PG2 caprate, PG2 laurate, PG4 oleate, PG4 laurate, PG4 isostearate, PG6 isostearate, PG6 distearate, PG10 trilaurate, PG10 distearate, PG10 tristearate, PG10 diisostearate, PG10 triisostearate, PG 10 tricocoate, PG 10 dioleate, PG5 laurate, PG3 cocoate, PG3 caprate, PG4 caprate, PG5 myristate, PG5 stearate, PG5 oleate, PG6 caprylate, PG6 tricaprylate, PG6 caprate, PG6 dicaprate, PG6 laurate, PG6 dioleate, PG10 laurate, PG10 myristate, PG10 dimyristate, PG10 stearate, PG10 isostearate, PG10 oleate, PG10 cocoate, PG10 dicocoate,and their mixtures. ,

[0056] Each of the (a) fatty acid polyglyceryl esters may have an HLB value of 5 or more, preferably 6 or more, and preferably 7 or more.

[0057] The term HLB (“hydrophilic-lipophilic balance”) is well known to those skilled in the art, and reflects the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in the molecule.

[0058] In one embodiment of the present invention, the (a) fatty acid polyglyceryl esters may comprise or be a combination of:

[0059] (al) a first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having an HLB value of 5 to less than 11, preferably of 6 to less than 11, and more preferably of 7 to less than 11; and

[0060] (a2) a second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having an HLB value of 11 to 17, preferably from 11 to 16, and more preferably from 11 to 15,

[0061] in which

[0062] each of the (a1) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester and the (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester has at least two hydroxyl groups in its polyglyceryl moiety.

[0063] As (al) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester, mention may be made of PG2 stearate (HLB: 5.0), PG2 isostearate (HLB: 8), PG2 oleate (HLB: 7.2), PG3 distearate (HLB: 5), PG3 diisostearate (HLB: 5), PG3 dicocoate (HLB: 7), PG5 trioleate (HLB: 7.0), PG 10 pentaoleate (HLB: 6.4), PG2 caprate (HLB: 9.5), PG2 laurate (HLB: 8.5), PG4 oleate (HLB: 8.8), PG4 laurate (HLB: 10.3), PG5 isostearate (HLB: 10.4), PG6 isostearate (HLB: 10.3), PG7 isostearate (HLB: 10.4), PG8 isostearate (HLB: 10.4), PG9 isostearate (HLB: 10.4), PG10 isostearate (HLB: 10.4), PG11 isostearate (HLB: 10.4), PG12 isostearate (HLB: 10.4), PG13 isostearate (HLB: 10.4), PG14 isostearate (HLB: 10.4), PG15 isostearate (HLB: 10.4), PG16 isostearate (HLB: 10.4), PG17 isostearate (HLB: 10.4), PG18 isostearate (HLB: 10.4), PG19 isostearate (HLB: 10.4), PG20 isostearate (HLB: 10.4), PG21 isostearate (HLB: 10.4), PG22 isost PG4 (HLB: 8.2), PG6 isostearate (HLB: 10.8), PG6 distearate (HLB: 8), PG-6 tricaprylate (HLB: 10.6), PG-6 dicaprate (HLB: 10.2), PG6 dioleate (HLB: 9.8), PG 10 trilaurate (HLB: 10.4), PG 10 distearate (HLB: 9 to 11), PG 10 distearate (HLB: 8), PG10 diisostearate (HLB: 10), PG10 triisostearate (HLB: 8), PG10 tricocoate (HLB: 9), and mixtures thereof.

[0064] As (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester, mention may be made of PG10 dioleate (HLB: 11.9), PG5 laurate (HLB: 15.8), PG3 cocoate (HLB: 12), PG3 caprate (HLB: about 14), PG4 caprate (HLB: 14), PG5 myristate (HLB: 15.4), PG5 stearate (HLB: 15), PG5 oleate (HLB: 12.7), PG6 caprylate (HLB: 14.6), PG6 caprate (HLB: 13.1), PG6 laurate (HLB: 14.1), PG 10 laurate (HLB: 15.2), PG10 myristate (HLB: 15.4), PG10 caprylate (HLB: 14.6), PG10 caprate (HLB: 13.1), PG ... PG 10 (HLB: 14.9), PG10 myristate (HLB: 12.3), PG10 stearate (HLB: 15.1), PG10 isostearate (HLB: 13.9), PG10 oleate (HLB: 13.0), PG10 cocoate (HLB: 16), PG10 dicocoate (HLB: 12) and mixtures thereof.

[0065] It is particularly preferred that the (a) fatty acid polyglyceryl esters are a combination of PG2 isostearate and PG4 caprate.

[0066] The total amount of (a) polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0067] Furthermore, the total amount of (a) fatty acid polyglyceryl esters in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0068] Thus, the total amount of (a) polyglyceryl fatty acid esters in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Jojoba Ester Wax)

[0069] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one jojoba ester wax. Only one type of jojoba ester wax may be used, but two or more different types of jojoba ester waxes may be used in combination.

[0070] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" denotes a deformable or non-deformable lipophilic compound, which is solid at room temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid-liquid change of state, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C, which may range up to 120°C. In particular, waxes suitable for use in the present invention may have a melting point greater than or equal to 60°C and in particular greater than or equal to 70°C.

[0071] The expression “lipophilic compound” designates a compound having an acid number and a hydroxyl number of less than 150 mg KOH / g.

[0072] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on the thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the ISO 11357-3; 1999 standard. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by TA Instruments or the calorimeter sold under the name DSC Q100 by TA Instruments with the TA universal analysis software.

[0073] The measurement protocol is as follows:

[0074] A 5 mg sample of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature ramp going from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C / minute, it is then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature ramp going from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute. During the second temperature ramp, the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the wax sample is measured as a function of temperature. The melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of temperature.

[0075] The (b) jojoba ester wax may be a saturated form of jojoba esters, which may be the fully hydrogenated jojoba ester of formula (II):

[0076] R1-COO-CH2-R1 (II)

[0077] in which

[0078] R1 is CH3-(CH2)y-, and y is 16, 18, 20 or 22.

[0079] (b) Jojoba ester wax can be obtained by hydrogenation of jojoba wax ester (jojoba oil) of the following formula:

[0080] CH3-(CH2)7-CH=CH-CH2-(CH2)x-COO-CH2-(CH2)y-CH2-CH=CH-(CH2)7-CH3

[0081] in which

[0082] x and y are 6, 8, 10 or 12.

[0083] Jojoba wax esters are composed of straight-chain monounsaturated fatty alcohols and monounsaturated fatty acids. The only double bond is located in the middle (n-9 position), starting from the final methyl group (-CH3) of the respective fatty acid or alcohol chain.

[0084] Such wax esters are composed of fatty alcohols and fatty esters with an even number of carbon atoms, primarily 20 and 22 carbon atoms. The resulting material includes esters having chain lengths of 38, 40, 42 and 44 carbon atoms, with a small amount of esters of 36 and 46 carbon atoms present. The typical composition of wax esters is shown below.

[0085] [Tables 1] Wax Esters (X, Y) Typical % Wax Ester Chain Length (Area per GPC) (6, 6) 36 1 (6, 8) (8, 6) 38 8 (6,10) (8, 8)(10, 6) 40 39 (10, 8) (8,10) 42 38 (10, 10) 44 13 (12, 10) (10, 12) 46 1

[0086] Jojoba wax ester may be derived from the seeds of the jojoba plant (Simmondsia chinensis).

[0087] Examples of jojoba wax esters include the product sold under the name Floraesters® 70 by International Flora Technologies Ltd, and the product sold under the name Jojoba Esters-70 by Vantage.

[0088] The amount of the (b) jojoba ester wax(es) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0089] Furthermore, the amount of the (b) jojoba ester wax(es) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0090] Thus, the amount of the (b) jojoba ester wax(es) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0091] (C12-C24 fatty acid ester of a C2-C24 polyol)

[0092] The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one C12-C24 fatty acid ester of a C2-C24 polyol. Only one type of C12-C24 fatty acid ester of a C2-C24 polyol may be used, but two or more different types of C12-C24 fatty acid ester of a C2-C24 polyol may be used in combination.

[0093] The (c) C12-C24 fatty acid ester of a C2-C24 polyol is different from each of the (a) fatty acid polyglyceryl esters explained above.

[0094] The C12-C24 fatty acid for the (c) C12-C24 fatty acid ester of a C2-C24 polyol, preferably the C12-C24 fatty acid ester of glycerol, may be an unsaturated or saturated acid, for example, stearic acid, oleic acid or palmitic acid.

[0095] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “polyol” must be understood as designating any organic molecule including at least two free hydroxyl groups.

[0096] The polyol for the fatty acid ester of a polyol may be a compound of linear, branched or cyclic alkyl type, saturated or unsaturated, carrying on the alkyl chain at least two OH functions and in particular at least three OH functions.

[0097] The polyols which are advantageously suitable for the fatty acid ester of a polyol are those preferably having 3 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0098] Advantageously, the polyol may be chosen, for example, from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, poly-glycerin-3 and glycerol, and mixtures thereof.

[0099] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, said polyol is chosen from 1,3-propanediol, polyglycerin-3, glycerol and pentylene glycol, and mixtures thereof. It is preferably glycerol.

[0100] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises at least one C12-C24 fatty acid ester of glycerol.

[0101] Examples of C12-C24 fatty acid esters of glycerol include glyceryl laurate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl palmitate and a mixture thereof.

[0102] Commercially available products include glyceryl stearate, such as the product sold under the name Tegin MO by Evonik Goldschmidt, and glyceryl laurate, such as the product sold under the name Imwitor 3120 by Hiils.

[0103] Monoglyceride stearates (INCI name: Glyceryl Stearate) can also be used, for example those sold under the name Dimodan HP by Danisco, or those sold under the name Tegin 90 by Evonik Goldschmidt.

[0104] Preferably, the C12-C24 fatty acid ester of glycerol is glyceryl stearate.

[0105] The amount of the (c) C12-C24 fatty acid ester(s) of glycerol in the com position according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0106] Furthermore, the amount of the (c) C12-C24 fatty acid ester(s) of glycerol in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0107] Thus, the amount of the (c) ester(s) of C12-C24 fatty acid of glycerol in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0108] (Carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant)

[0109] The composition according to the present invention comprises (d) at least one carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant selected from amino acids modified with at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon-based chain and their salts. Only one type of such anionic surfactant may be used, but two or more different types of such anionic surfactants may be used in combination.

[0110] The term "hydrocarbon-based chain" is intended to denote a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated organic group consisting primarily of hydrogen atoms and carbon atoms, in which one or more carbon atoms may be replaced by an oxygen atom or a nitrogen atom. Examples of C8-C30 hydrocarbon-based chains include C8-C30 acyl radicals.

[0111] Examples of amino acids include alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, phenylalanine, serine, tyrosine, valine, and sarcosine.

[0112] More specifically, the following compounds may be mentioned as anionic carboxylate surfactants chosen from salts of amino acids modified with at least one fatty chain: dipotassium capryloyl glutamate, dipotassium undecylenoyl glutamate, disodium capryloyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, lauroyl glutamate disodium, disodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium undecylenoyl glutamate, potassium capryloyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium myristoyl glutamate, potassium stearoyl glutamate, potassium undecylenoyl glutamate, sodium capryloyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate, sodium palmitoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium undecylenoyl glutamate, cocoyl methyl [3-alaninate, lauroyl [3-alaninate, lauroyl methyl [3-alaninate, myristoyl [3-alaninate, lauroyl methyl [3-alaninate, potassium cocoyl alaninate, cocoyl methyl [3-alaninate and myristoyl methyl [sodium 3-alaninate, palmitoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium myristoyl glycinate, potassium lauroyl glycinate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, potassium lauroyl sarcosinate,potassium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sodium oleoyl sarcosinate, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, ammonium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl aspartate, sodium myristoyl aspartate, sodium cocoyl aspartate, sodium caproyl aspartate, lauroyl aspartate disodium, myristoyl aspartate disodium, cocoyl aspartate disodium, caproyl aspartate disodium, lauroyl aspartate potassium, myristoyl aspartate potassium, cocoyl aspartate potassium, caproyl aspartate potassium, lauroyl aspartate dipotassium, myristoyl aspartate dipotassium, cocoyl aspartate dipotassium, caproyl aspartate dipotassium, and mixtures thereof. ,

[0113] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from compounds having the following structure (III): o (m) '"'W 'V' XY

[0114] in which: • Z represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, • X is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; • n is equal to 0 or 1; • Y is a group selected from a hydrogen atom and a group -CH3, -CH(CH3)2, -CH2CH(CH3)2, -CH(CH3)CH2CH3, -ch2c6h5, -ch2c2h4oh, -ch2 OH, -CH(OH)CH3, -(CH2)4NH2, -(CH2)3NHC(NH)NH2, -CH2C(O)OM+, -(CH 2)2C(O)OH, and -(CH2)2C(O)OM+; and • M is a hydrogen atom or a cation, such as sodium, potassium, ammonium, or triethanolamine.

[0115] According to a preferred embodiment, in formula (III) above: • Z represents a linear or branched C8-C22 alkyl or alkenyl group; • X is a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; • n is equal to 0; • Y is a hydrogen atom, a -(CH2)2C(O)OH group or a -(CH2)2 C(O)O M+ group; and • M is a cation, such as sodium, potassium, ammonium, or triethanolamine.

[0116] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one acyl glutamic acid (INCI name: acyl glutamic acid) or one of its salts (acyl glutamates).

[0117] Preferably, the acyl glutamic acid(s) is(are) chosen from acyl glutamic acids in which the acyl group comprises from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms and even more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, lauroylglutamic acid, myristoylglutamic acid, palmitoylglutamic acid, stearoylglutamic acid, behenoylglutamic acid, olivoylglutamic acid, cocoylglutamic acid, and the salts of these acids, in particular the salts of alkali metals such as Na, Li or K, preferably Na or K, the salts of alkaline earth metals such as Mg, or the ammonium salts of said acids.

[0118] Preferably, as salts of amino acids modified with at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon-based chain, mention may be made of glutamate salts, and in particular dipotassium capryloyl glutamate, dipotassium undecylenoyl glutamate, disodium capryloyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, disodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium undecylenoyl glutamate, potassium capryloyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium myristoyl glutamate, potassium stearoyl glutamate, potassium undecylenoyl glutamate, sodium capryloyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, myristoyl glutamate sodium, sodium olivoyl glutamate, sodium palmitoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium undecylenoyl glutamate.

[0119] Preferably, the acylglutamic acid(s) or one of their salts is(are) selected from lauroylglutamic acids, cocoylglutamic acids, sodium stearoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate and mixtures thereof.

[0120] More preferably, acyl glutamic acid or one of its salts is sodium stearoyl glutamate (INCI name).

[0121] These compounds are sold under the name Amisoft by Ajinomoto and in particular under the references Amisoft CA, Amisoft LA, Amisoft HS 11 PF, Amisoft MK-11, Amisoft LK-11 and Amisoft CK-11, or alternatively under the name Eumulgin SG by Cognis.

[0122] Also exemplified are triethanolamine cocoyl glutamate sold under the name Amisoft CT12 by Ajinomoto, and triethanolamine lauroyl glutamate sold under the name Acylglutamate LT-12 by Ajinomoto.

[0123] As acylglutamic acid salts, mention may also be made of sodium hydrogenated tallow glutamate, such as the product sold under the reference Acylglutamate HS 11 by Ajinomoto and disodium hydrogenated tallow glutamate, such as the product sold under the reference Acylglutamate HS-21 by Ajinomoto.

[0124] Mention may also be made of commercial mixtures of surfactants comprising at least one glutamic acid derivative or a salt of said derivative, for example the mixture of acyl glutamate salts such as Amisoft LS-22 sold by Ajinomoto.

[0125] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the monosodium salt of n-stearoyl-L-glutamic acid (INCI name: sodium stearoyl glutamate), such as the product sold by Ajinomoto under the reference Amisoft HS 11 PF, is used.

[0126] It is particularly preferable that the (d) carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant used in the composition according to the present invention is sodium stearoyl glutamate.

[0127] The amount of the (d) carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and even more preferably 0.3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0128] Furthermore, the amount of the (d) carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0129] Thus, the amount of the (d) carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Saturated fatty alcohol C12-C24)

[0130] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (e) at least one C12-C24 saturated fatty alcohol. Only one type of C12-C24 saturated fatty alcohol may be used, but two or more different types of C12-C24 saturated fatty alcohol may be used in combination.

[0131] The (e) C12-C24 saturated fatty alcohol may be linear or branched, and preferably linear. Preferably, the (e) C12-C24 saturated fatty alcohol comprises from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0132] The (e) C12-C24 saturated fatty alcohol suitable for use in the present invention is preferably selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, hexadecyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and a mixture thereof.

[0133] It is more preferable that the (e) C12-C24 saturated fatty alcohol is selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol.

[0134] As cetyl alcohols which may be particularly suitable for use in Use in the present invention may be made, for example, of the products sold under the names Ecorol® 16 / 98 F and Ecorol® 16 / 98 P sold by Ecogreen Oleochemicals, Togoalkanol® 16 sold by Evonik Goldschmidt, Lanette® 16 sold by Cognis, Vegarol® 1698 sold by WF, Alkonat® 1698 P sold by Oxiteno, Cetyl Alcohol 98% Min sold by Emery Oleochemicals, Ginol® 16 (98%) sold by Godrej Industries, Nacol® 16-98 sold by Sasol, Kalcol® 6098 sold by Kao, and Acilol® 16 sold by Aegis Chemical.

[0135] As stearyl alcohols which are particularly suitable for use in the present invention, it is possible to use, for example, those sold under the names Tegoalkanol® 18 sold by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, Ecorol® 18 / 98 F and Ecorol® 18 / 98 P sold by the company Ecogreen Oleochemicals, Lanette® 18 sold by the company Cognis, Kalcol® 8098 sold by the company Kao, Acilol® 18 sold by the company Aegis Chemical, Nacol® 18-98 sold by the company Sasol and NAA® sold by the company Nihon Yushi.

[0136] As cetearyl (cetylstearyl) alcohols which are particularly suitable Related to use in the present invention, for example, those sold under the names Ecorol® 68 / 50 F and Ecorol® 68 / 50 P sold by Ecogreen Oleochemicals, Lanette® O OR and Lanette® O OR Flakes sold by Cognis, Alkonat® 1618 C50 P sold by Oxiteno, Nafol® 16-18 EN sold by Sasol, Alcohol Cetoestearilico 50 / 50 sold by Industria Quimica Del Centre, Conol® 30 CK sold by New Japan Chemical, Ce- tylstearyl Alcohol 50:50 sold by Evonik Goldschmidt, Kalcol® 6850 sold by Kao, Vegarol® 1618 (50:50) sold by WF and Ginol® 1618 50:50 OR sold by Godrej Industries.

[0137] The amount of the saturated C12-C24 fatty alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, more preferably 1% by weight or more, and even more preferably 2% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0138] Furthermore, the amount of the saturated C12-C24 fatty alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0139] Thus, the amount of the saturated C12-C24 fatty alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Water)

[0140] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (f) water.

[0141] The amount of (f) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or more, preferably 40% by weight or more, and more preferably 50% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0142] Furthermore, the amount of (f) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 90% by weight or less, preferably 80% by weight or less, and more preferably 70% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0143] The amount of (f) water in the composition according to the present invention may range from 30% to 90% by weight, preferably from 40% to 80% by weight, more preferably from 50% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Oil)

[0144] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (g) at least one oil. If two or more oils are used, they may be the same or different.

[0145] Herein "oil" means a fatty compound or a fatty substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (not solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0146] The (g) oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil or the like; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.

[0147] The (g) oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils.

[0148] Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0149] Examples of animal oils include, for example, squalene and squalane.

[0150] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.

[0151] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C2e aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

[0152] Preferably, for the monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and the acid from which the esters are derived is branched.

[0153] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.

[0154] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and non-sugar C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

[0155] Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol dii-sononanoate.

[0156] As ester oils, esters and diesters of sugars of C6-C30 and preferably C[2-C22] fatty acids can be used. It is recalled that the term "sugar" denotes Oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

[0157] Examples of suitable sugars that may be cited include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and their derivatives, including alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0158] The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of the sugars described above and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30, and preferably C12-C22, fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0159] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0160] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

[0161] More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, and in particular monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

[0162] An example that can be cited is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0163] Examples of preferable ester oils include, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate and mixtures thereof.

[0164] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, tri- glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).

[0165] Examples of silicone oils include, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopenta-siloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.

[0166] Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

[0167] These silicone oils may also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones that may be used for the present invention are silicone oils as defined above, and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.

[0168] Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Chemistry and Technology of Silicones by Walter Noll (1968), Academie Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0169] When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:

[0170] (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These include, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Cyclocopolymers of the type such as dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of formula: ।— D’t: — D’--D” - D’--- CH,. --------------------------- CH, rr with: D5S: —Si-U — and with DU -St-O — CH, CsH,t

[0171] Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-l,r-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; and

[0172] (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atonies and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5 x 106 m2 / s at 25 °C. An example is deca-methyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25 °C according to ASTM 445 Appendix C.

[0173] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may mainly be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.

[0174] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be mentioned, without limitation: - Silbione® oils from the 47 and 70 047 ranges or Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000; - oils from the Mirasil® range sold by the company Rhodia; - Dow Corning's 200 range oils, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm2 / s; and - General Electric Viscasil® oils and certain oils in the SF range (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

[0175] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 range from the company Rhodia.

[0176] Among the silicones containing aryl groups, mention may be made of polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyl silicone oil.

[0177] The phenyl silicone oil can be chosen from phenyl silicones of the following formula:

[0178] in which • Ri to Rio are, independently of each other, radicals based on C1-C30 hydrocarbons, preferably radicals based on C1-C12 hydrocarbons, and more preferably radicals based on saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C rC6 hydrocarbons, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radicals, and • m, n, p and q are, independently of one another, whole numbers from 0 to 900 inclusive, preferably from 0 to 500 inclusive, and more preferably from 0 to 100 inclusive,

[0179] provided that the sum n+m+q is different from 0.

[0180] Examples that may be cited include products sold under the following names: - Silbione® oils from the 70 641 range from Rhodia; - oils from the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 ranges from Rhodia; - Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow Corning; - Bayer PK range silicones, such as the PK20 product; - certain oils from the General Electric SF range, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

[0181] As phenyl silicone oil, phenyl trimethicone (Rià Rio are methyl; p, qetn = 0; m=l in the above formula) is preferable.

[0182] The hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from: - C5-C10 alkanes, linear or branched, optionally cyclic. Examples that may be cited include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins, e.g. isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; and - linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam® and squalane.

[0183] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, petrolatum or vaseline, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, and decene / butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.

[0184] It is also preferable that the (g) oil is chosen from oils with a molecular weight of less than 600 g / mol.

[0185] Preferably, the (g) oil has a low molecular weight such as less than 600 g / mol, selected from ester oils with a short hydrocarbon chain or chains (C1-C12) (e.g., isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate and ethylhexyl palmitate), silicone oils (e.g., volatile silicones such as cyclohexasiloxane), hydrocarbon oils (e.g., isododecane, isohexadecane, and squalane), and ether oils such as dicaprylyl ether.

[0186] The (g) oil may be chosen from polar oils, preferably from ester oils, and more preferably from the group consisting of isopropyl myristate, diisopropyl sebacate and one of their mixtures.

[0187] The amount of the (g) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0188] Furthermore, the amount of the (g) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or less, preferably 45% by weight or less, and more preferably 40% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0189] The quantity of the (g) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 3% to 45% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Gemini surfactant)

[0190] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (h) at least one gemini surfactant. Only one type of gemini surfactant may be used, but two or more different types of gemini surfactants may be used in combination.

[0191] The (h) gemini surfactant is different from the (d) carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant explained above.

[0192] The (h) gemini surfactant or dimeric surfactants used for the present invention are well known. For a detailed description of the various chemical structures and their physicochemical properties, reference may be made to the following publications:

[0193] Milton J. Rosen, Gemini Surfactants, Properties of surfactant molecules with two hydrophilic groups and two hydrophobic groups, Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine, Vol. 113, December 1998, pp. 49-55; And

[0194] Milton J. Rosen, Recent Developments in Gemini Surfactants, Allured's Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine, July 2001, Vol. 116, no. 7, pp. 67-70.

[0195] The (h) gemini surfactant may be selected from compounds with two or more fatty amide groups (hereinafter, it may be referred to as an "amide compound"). The amide compound may be represented by the following formula (A): y (A) CHs(CHPi — CO NH ÇH j^O CH ~ Y' (CH^ NH pO (CH^a CHgîCHgï^COWH -ÇH (CH^ Y*

[0196] in which • Y1 independently denotes a carboxylic acid group or an alkali salt of a carboxylic acid group such as a sodium salt of a carboxylic acid group, • j 1, kl, j2 and k2 denote an integer such that (j 1, kl, j2, k2) = any one of (2,0,2,0), (2,0,0,2), (0,2,2,0) and (0,2,0,2), and • 1 denotes an integer from 6 to 16, preferably from 8 to 14, and more preferably initially from 10 to 12.

[0197] Preferably, in formula (A), L denotes an integer from 8 to 12, j 1 = j2 = 0 and kl = k2 = 2.

[0198] Most preferably, in formula (A), Y1 is -COONa, j 1 = j2 = 0, kl = k2 = 2; and L = 10.

[0199] The amide compound may be prepared, for example, by reacting a long-chain acidic n-acyl amino acid anhydride with a basic amino acid, such as lysine, in water and / or a mixed solvent of water and organic solvent(s), or in inert organic solvent(s) such as tetrahydrofuran, benzene, toluene, xylene tetrachloromethane, chloroform, acetone or the like, or without any solvent, at -5°C to 200°C, preferably 5°C to 100°C, and more preferably 0°C to 60°C.

[0200] As the amide compound, mention may be made of sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, sodium dimyristoylglutamide lysine and sodium distearoylglutamide lysine.

[0201] Sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine is particularly preferable. Sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine is marketed under the names Pellicer L-10 and L-30 by Asahi Kasei Fine Chem. Col., Ltd. in the form of an aqueous solution at a concentration of 29% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution; or under the name Pellicer LB-30G by Asahi Kasei Fine Chem. Co., Ltd. as a mixture of sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine and butylene glycol.

[0202] In another embodiment, the (h) gemini surfactants may also conform to the following formula (I):

[0203] in which: • R1 and R3 represent, independently of one another, an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 25 carbon atoms; • R2 represents a spacer group consisting of a linear or branched alkylene chain containing from 1 to 12 carbon atoms; • X and Y represent, independently of each other, a group -(C2H4O)a-(C3H6O)bZ, in which: • Z represents a hydrogen atom or the radical -CH2-COOM, -SO3M, -P(O)(OM)2, -C2H4-SO3M, -C3H6-SO3M or -CH2(CHOH)4CH2OH, where M represents H or an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal or ammonium or alkanolammonium ion, • a varies from 0 to 15, b varies from 0 to 10, and the sum of a+b varies from 1 to 25; and • n varies from 1 to 10.

[0204] The gemini surfactant of formula (I) is preferably such that each of the groups Ri - CO- and R3-CO- comprise from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, and preferably represent a coconut fatty acid residue (comprising mainly lauric acid and myristic acid).

[0205] Furthermore, this surfactant is preferably such that, for each of the radicals X and Y, the sum of a and b has an average value which varies from 10 to 20 and is preferably equal to 15. A preferred group for Z is the —SO3M group, where M is preferably an alkali metal ion such as the sodium ion.

[0206] The spacer R2 advantageously consists of a linear alkylene chain CrC3 and preferably an ethylene chain (CH2CH2). Finally, n is advantageously equal to 1.

[0207] A surfactant of this type is in particular that identified by the INCI name: Sodium di-cocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate, having the following structure: O [I UPEG-15)—“Oî Na cocoyl •—-C—N Œ2 CIE cocoyl — CN ^(pEG.45) —SO4Na O

[0208] it being understood that PEG represents the group -CH2CH2O and that “cocoyl” represents the coconut fatty acid residue.

[0209] This surfactant has a molecular structure that is very similar to that of ceramide-3.

[0210] Preferably, the gemini surfactant of formula (I) may be used in admixture with other surfactants and, in particular in admixture with (a) an ester of a C 6-C 22 fatty acid (preferably C 14-C 20 such as stearate) and glyceryl, (b) a diester of a C 6-C 22 fatty acid (preferably C 14-C 20 such as stearate) and citric acid and glycerol (in particular an ester of C 6-C 22 fatty acid and glyceryl monocitrate), and (c) a C 10-C 30 fatty alcohol (preferably behenyl alcohol).

[0211] Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention comprises a mixture of sodium PEG-15 dicocoylethylenediamine sulfate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate monocitrate and behenyl alcohol.

[0212] For example, the gemini surfactant of formula (I) may be used in admixture with other surfactants in the form of products sold by Sasol under the trade name Ceralution®, such as in particular the following products:

[0213] Ceralution® H: Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate and Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate (INCI name),

[0214] Ceralution® F: Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate and Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate (INCI name),

[0215] Ceralution® C: Aqua, Capric / Caprylic triglyceride, Glycerin, Ceteareth-25, Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Gum Arabia, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben (INCI name).

[0216] The gemini surfactant of formula (I) may represent from 3% to 50% by weight of the above mixtures. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention may comprise, as gemini surfactant of formula (I), a raw material bearing the INCI name: Behenyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate citrate and sodium dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate, sold under the trade name Ceralution® H by Sasol.

[0217] The amount of the gemini surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0218] Furthermore, the amount of the gemini surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0219] Thus, the amount of the gemini surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Extra wax)

[0220] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one additional wax. Only one type of additional wax may be used, but two or more different types of additional waxes may be used in combination.

[0221] The additional wax is different from the (b) jojoba ester wax explained above.

[0222] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" denotes a deformable or non-deformable lipophilic compound, which is solid at room temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid-liquid change of state, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C, which may range up to 120°C. In particular, waxes suitable for use in the present invention may have a melting point greater than or equal to 60°C and in particular greater than or equal to 70°C.

[0223] The expression “lipophilic compound” designates a compound having an acid number and a hydroxyl number of less than 150 mg KOH / g.

[0224] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on the thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the ISO 11357-3; 1999 standard. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by TA Instruments or the calorimeter sold under the name DSC Q100 by TA Instruments with the TA universal analysis software.

[0225] The measurement protocol is as follows:

[0226] A 5 mg sample of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature ramp going from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C / minute, it is then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature ramp going from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute. During the second temperature ramp, the variation of the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the wax sample is measured as a function of temperature. The melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature.

[0227] The additional waxes may be hydrocarbon waxes, silicone waxes and / or fluoro waxes, and may be of vegetable, animal, mineral and / or synthetic origin.

[0228] As additional waxes, hydrocarbon-based waxes, for example, beeswax, lanolin wax or Chinese insect wax; rice wax, camauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto wax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax, Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, polymethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters, may be used in particular.

[0229] Mention may in particular beeswax, for example the product sold under the name White beeswax BR G889 by Koster Keunen, camauba wax, for example sold under the name Cerauba Tl Bio by the company Baerlocher, helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax sold under the name Sunflower Wax by the company Koster Keunen, or one of their mixtures.

[0230] It is preferable that the additional wax is chosen from vegetable waxes, and more preferably that it is Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax.

[0231] The amount of the additional wax(es) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0232] Furthermore, the amount of the additional wax(es) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0233] Thus, the amount of the additional wax(es) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Additional optional ingredients)

[0234] The composition according to the present invention may also comprise an effective amount of additional optional ingredient(s), already known previously in cosmetic compositions, for example, anionic surfactants, ca tionic or amphoteric; organic and inorganic powders such as fillers; thickeners; sequestering agents such as EDTA and trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate; preservatives; vitamins or provitamins, e.g. tocopherol and panthenol; perfumes; plant extracts; etc.

[0235] The composition according to the present invention may include one or more cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, which may be alcohols: in particular monovalent alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol and phenylethyl alcohol; diols such as ethylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and butylene glycol; other polyols such as glycerol, polyglycerol, sugar and sugar alcohols; and ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers and butylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers.

[0236] The organic solvent(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.0001% by weight or more, preferably 0.0005% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.001% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0237] The organic solvent(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0238] The organic solvent(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.0001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.0005% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.001% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Methods of implementation)

[0239] According to a particular preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition: i. from 1% to 5% by weight of (a) at least two fatty acid polyglyceryl esters in which at least one of (a) at least two fatty acid polyglyceryl esters has at least two hydroxyl groups in its polyglyceryl moiety; ii. from 0.1% to 1% by weight of (b) at least one jojoba ester wax of formula (II):

[0240] R1-COO-CH2-R1 (II)

[0241] in which

[0242] R1 is CH3-(CH2)y-, and y is 16, 18, 20 or 22; i. from 0.1% to 1% by weight of (c) at least one C12-C24 fatty acid ester of a C2-C24 polyol selected from glyceryl laurate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl palmitate and a mixture thereof; and ii. from 0.1% to 1% by weight of (d) at least one anionic carboxylic or carboxylate surfactant chosen from glutamates.

[0243] The composition according to the present invention in the form of the particularly preferred embodiment above may further comprise, relative to the total weight of the composition, any one, preferably all: i. from 1% to 5% by weight of (e) at least one saturated C12-C24 fatty alcohol selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol; ii. from 0.1% to 1% by weight of at least one additional wax, different from (b) jojoba ester wax, selected from vegetable waxes, preferably Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax; iii. from 0.001% to 10% by weight of at least one polyol, preferably chosen from glycerol and polyglycerol; and iv. from 0.001% to 10% by weight of vitamins such as tocopherol.

[0244] The composition according to the present invention in the form of the particularly preferred embodiment above may further comprise, relative to the total weight of the composition, any one, preferably all: i. from 50% to 70% by weight of (f) water; and ii. from 5% to 40% by weight of (g) at least one oil.

[0245] The composition according to the present invention in the form of the particularly preferred embodiment above may further comprise: i. from 0.1% to 1% by weight of at least one gemini surfactant, different from (d) anionic carboxylic or carboxylate surfactant.

[0246] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the composition according to the present invention may comprise, as ingredients (b) to (e), as well as the additional wax, a mixture of glyceryl stearate, sodium steroyl glutamate, cetearyl alcohol, jojoba esters and sunflower seed wax, bearing the INCI name Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Jojoba Esters (and) Glyceryl Stearate (and) Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate (and) Helianthus Annuus Seed Cera (and) Poly-glycerin-3, sold under the name Emulium® Dolcea MB by Gattefosse. (Preparation)

[0247] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and the optional ingredient(s), if necessary, as explained above.

[0248] The method and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means may be used for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention. The conventional method and means may include a homogenizer, for example a turbine mixer. (Shape)

[0249] The composition according to the present invention can be presented in various forms.

[0250] Since the composition according to the present invention includes (b) jojoba ester wax(es), which may be similar to oil(s), if the composition according to the present invention includes (f) water, the composition according to the present invention may be in the form of an emulsion, preferably an O / W emulsion or a W / O emulsion, and more preferably an O / W emulsion.

[0251] If the composition according to the present invention includes (g) at least one oil and (f) water, the composition according to the present invention may of course be in the form of an emulsion, preferably an O / W emulsion or a W / O emulsion, and more preferably an O / W emulsion.

[0252] The composition according to the present invention in the form of an H / W emulsion comprises dispersed fatty phases such as oily phases dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase. The dispersed fatty phases may be in the form of oil droplets in the aqueous phase.

[0253] The appearance of the composition according to the present invention in the form of an emulsion may be transparent or translucent. [Process and use]

[0254] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for a keratinous substance such as the skin.

[0255] The composition according to the present invention can be used for a non-therapeutic process, such as a cosmetic process, of treating a keratinous substance such as the skin, hair, mucous membranes, nails, eyelashes, eyebrows and / or the scalp, by being applied to the keratinous substance.

[0256] Thus, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating a keratinous substance, preferably the skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous substance.

[0257] The present invention may also relate to a use of the composition according to the present invention as a cosmetic product or in a cosmetic product such as care products, for the skin of the body and / or face and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp and / or hair and / or nails and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows.

[0258] In other words, the composition according to the present invention can be used, as such, as a cosmetic product. Alternatively, the composition according to the present invention can be used as an element of a cosmetic product. For example, the composition according to the present invention can be added or combined with any other element to form a cosmetic product.

[0259] The care product may be a lotion, a cream and the like.

[0260] The present invention may also relate to a use of (a) at least two fatty acid polyglyceryl esters wherein at least one of (a) at least two fatty acid polyglyceryl esters has at least two hydroxyl groups in its polyglyceryl moiety

[0261] in a composition comprising:

[0262] (b) at least one jojoba ester wax;

[0263] (c) at least one C12-C24 fatty acid ester of a C2-C24 polyol;

[0264] (d) at least one carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant chosen from amino acids modified with at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon-based chain and their salts; and

[0265] optionally

[0266] (e) at least one saturated C12-C24 fatty alcohol,

[0267] in order to stabilize the composition and / or to improve the sensation of penetration provided by the composition when it is applied to a keratinous substance such as the skin.

[0268] The present invention may also relate to a use of:

[0269] (b) at least one jojoba ester wax;

[0270] (c) at least one C[2-C24] fatty acid ester of a C2-C24 polyol;

[0271] (d) at least one carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant chosen from amino acids modified with at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon-based chain and their salts; and

[0272] optionally

[0273] (e) at least one saturated C[2-C24] fatty alcohol;

[0274] in a composition comprising (a) at least two fatty acid polyglyceryl esters wherein at least one of (a) at least two fatty acid polyglyceryl esters has at least two hydroxyl groups in its polyglyceryl moiety,

[0275] in order to stabilize the composition and / or to cause a rich sensation provided by the composition when applied to a keratinous substance such as skin.

[0276] It may be preferable that the composition used in the above use according to the present invention includes (f) water.

[0277] It may be preferable that the composition used in the above use according to the present invention includes (g) at least one oil.

[0278] It may be preferable that the composition used in the above use according to the present invention includes (h) at least one gemini surfactant.

[0279] The composition used in the above use according to the present invention may include any other optional ingredient, as cited above.

[0280] The explanations concerning ingredients (a) to (d), as well as ingredients (e) to (h) and other optional ingredients, for the composition according to the present invention can be applied to those in the composition used in the above use according to the present invention. EXAMPLES

[0281] The present invention will be described in more detail by means of examples which should not, however, be interpreted as limiting the scope of the present invention. [Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3]

[0282] The following compositions, in the form of an O / W emulsion, according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 shown in Table 1, were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 1 as follows: 1. mixing the ingredients of lines A of Table 1 at 75 to 80°C to form a uniform mixture (Phase A); 2. mixing the ingredients of rows B of Table 1 at 75 to 80°C to form a uniform mixture (Phase B); 3. addition of the uniform mixture (Phase B) to the uniform mixture (Phase A), followed by their homogenization at 75 to 80 °C to obtain a uniform mixture (Phases A and B); 4. addition of the ingredients from rows C of Table 1 to the uniform mixture (Phases A and B), followed by their homogenization at 75 to 80 °C to obtain a uniform mixture (Phases A, B and C); 5. uniform cooling of the mixture (Phases A, B and C) to 30°C; 6. adding the ingredients from lines D to F of Table 1 to the uniform mixture (Phases A, B and C), followed by their homogenization at 30°C to obtain a uniform mixture (phases A to F); and 7. cooling the uniform mixture (Phases A to F) to room temperature to obtain a composition according to any one of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3.

[0283] The numerical values of the component amounts shown in Table 1 are all based on "% by weight" of raw materials. Items (a) to (g) in Table 1 correspond to those in the claims.

[0284] [Tables2] Phase e Ingredient Ex. 1 Ex. Comp. 1 Ex. Comp. 2 Ex. Comp. 3 B (a) Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate (HLB: 8) 1.7 - 1.7 - (a) Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate (HLB: 14) 1.8 - 1.8 1.8 Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate (HLB: 3) - - - 1.7 (b) Jojoba Esters 0.63 0.63 - 0.63 (e) Cetearyl Alcohol 1.095 1.095 - 1.095 (c) Glyceryl Stearate 0.63 0.63 - 0.63 (d) Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate 0.27 0.27 - 0.27 Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax / Helianthus Annuus Seed Cera 0.27 0.27 - 0.27 Polyglycerin-3 0.0148 5 0.01485 - 0.01485 Tocopherol 0.0015 0.0015 - 0.0015 A (f) Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 (h) Sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine (29% aqueous solution by weight) 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Glycerin 7 7 7 7 Chlorphenesin 0.27 0.27 0.27 0.27 Hydroxyacetophenone 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Caprylyl glycol 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Phytic acid 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Niacinamide 2 2 2 2 (d) Sodium stearoyl glutamate 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 B (e) Cetyl Alcohol 1 1 1 1 Pentaerythrityl Tetra-di-t-butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate 0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07 (g) Isopropyl Myristate 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.3 (g) Diisopropyl Sebacate 5 5 5 5 Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 Capryloyl Salicylic Acid 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 C Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Xanthan Gum 0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07 D Boron Nitride 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Silica 1 1 1 1 Titanium dioxide (and) mica 2 2 2 2 E Biosaccharide gum-2 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 F Ethanol 3 3 3 3 Penetration sensation Very good Bad e Good Good Rich sensation Very good Very good Very bad Good Stability Very good Bad e Very bad Very bad

[0285] Table 1 [Evaluations] (Sensation of penetration)

[0286] Five professional panelists evaluated the "penetration sensation" after application of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3. Each panelist took each composition and applied it to his or her face to evaluate the penetration sensation during application, and rated it from 1 (poor) to 5 (very good), and it was then classified into the following 4 categories based on the average of the rating:

[0287] Very good: From 5.0 to 4.0 (the sensation of penetration is felt during application)

[0288] Good: From 3.9 to 3.0 (the sensation of penetration is felt slightly during application)

[0289] Bad: From 2.9 to 2.0 (a weak sensation of penetration is felt during application)

[0290] Very poor: From 1.9 to 1.0 (the sensation of penetration is not felt during application)

[0291] The results are shown in Table 1. (Rich feeling)

[0292] Five professional panelists evaluated the “rich feeling” after application of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3. Each panelist took each composition and applied it to their face to evaluate the rich feeling (rich texture) after application, and rated it from 1 (poor) to 5 (very good), and it was then classified into the following 4 categories based on the average of the rating:

[0293] Very good: From 5.0 to 4.0 (richness is felt after application)

[0294] Good: From 3.9 to 3.0 (richness is slightly felt after application)

[0295] Bad: From 2.9 to 2.0 (low richness is felt after application)

[0296] Very poor: From 1.9 to 1.0 (the richness is not felt after application)

[0297] The results are shown in Table 1. (Stability)

[0298] Each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 was poured into a glass bottle and kept under temperature change conditions at 4°C, 25°C, 40°C and 45°C for 2 months. Each sample was then investigated in terms of degree of change (transparency, color, odor and pH) and was evaluated in accordance with the following criteria:

[0299] Very good: Almost the same conditions as in production.

[0300] Good: Slight changes in transparency, color, odor and pH have were observed. No separation or creamy appearance was observed.

[0301] Bad: Changes in transparency, color, odor, and pH were clearly observed. Separations, creaminess, and crystallizations were also clearly observed.

[0302] Very poor: Changes in transparency, color, odor, and pH were significantly noticed. Separations, creaminess, and crystallizations were significantly noticed.

[0303] The results are shown in Table 1. (Summary)

[0304] As evident from Table 1, the composition according to the present invention (Example 1) was able to provide both a good penetrating sensation and a good rich sensation; and was stable to temperature changes for 2 months, which could be attributed to a combination of ingredients (a), (b), (c) and (d).

[0305] Thus, the composition according to the present invention can provide excellent texture and stability, in particular, for a long period, even in the event of temperature changes.

[0306] Cetearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol, as ingredients (e), in the composition according to Example 1 can be considered negligible, since they are simple fatty substances.

[0307] The Helianthus annuus seed wax (sunflower / helianthus annuus seed cera) in the composition according to Example 1 can also be considered negligible, since these are simple fatty substances.

[0308] Furthermore, polyglycerin-3 and tocopherol in the composition according to Example 1 can be considered negligible, since the amount of each of these ingredients is very small.

[0309] In contrast, the compositions according to Comparative Examples 1 and 3 which did not include ingredient (a) showed poor sensation of penetration at touch as well as instability.

[0310] The composition according to Comparative Example 2 which did not include ingredients (b) and (c) showed inferior texture in terms of rich feel, as well as instability.

Claims

Claims

1. Composition, preferably cosmetic composition, and more preferably cosmetic composition for the skin, comprising: (a) at least two fatty acid polyglyceryl esters; (b) at least one jojoba ester wax; (c) at least one C12-C24 fatty acid ester of a C2-C24 polyol; and (d) at least one carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant selected from amino acids modified with at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon-based chain and their salts, wherein at least one of (a) at least two fatty acid polyglyceryl esters has at least two hydroxyl groups in its polyglyceryl moiety.

2. The composition of claim 1, wherein each of the (a) fatty acid polyglyceryl esters has an HLB value of 5 or more, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 7 or more.

3. A composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the (a) fatty acid polyglyceryl esters comprise a combination of: (a1) a first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having an HLB value of from 5 to less than 11, preferably from 6 to less than 11, and more preferably from 7 to less than 11; and (a2) a second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having an HLB value of from 11 to 17, preferably from 11 to 16, and more preferably from 11 to 15, wherein each of the (a1) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester and the (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester has at least two hydroxyl groups in its polyglyceryl moiety.

4. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the total amount of (a) fatty acid polyglyceryl esters in the composition is from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the (b) jojoba ester wax is selected from fully hydrogenated jojoba ester of formula (II): R'-COO-CHz-R1 (II) in which R1 is CH3-(CH2)y-, and y is 16, 18, 20 or 22.

6. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the (c) C12-C24 fatty acid ester of a C2-C24 polyol is selected from glyceryl laurate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl palmitate and a mixture thereof.

7. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the (d) carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant selected from amino acids modified with at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon-based chain and their salts is represented by the following formula (III): n (III) Jlx ......(CHj> ^.COOM Z."ï X ¥ in which: - Z represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, - X is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; - n is equal to 0 or 1; Y is a group selected from a hydrogen atom and a group -CH3, -CH(CH3)2, -CH2CH(CH3)2, -CH(CH3)CH2CH3, -CH2C6H5, -CH2C2H4 OH, -CH2OH, -CH(OH)CH3, -(CH2)4NH2, -(CH2)3NHC(NH)NH2, -ch2 C(O)O M+, -(CH2)2C(O)OH, and -(CH2)2C(O)O M+; and - M is a hydrogen atom or a cation such as sodium, potassium, ammonium or triethanolamine.

8. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the composition further comprises (e) at least one C12-C24 saturated fatty alcohol, preferably selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, hexadecyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and a mixture thereof.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, in

10. wherein the composition further comprises (g) at least one oil. A cosmetic process for treating a keratinous substance, comprising the step of applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 to the keratinous substance.