Composition of Criste Marine and water from saline evaporation basins

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition comprising an extract of Criste Marine and water from saline evaporation basins, its manufacturing process, and its use as an anti-aging active ingredient and as an anti-aging cosmetic composition.

Description

Title of the invention: Composition of Marine Criste and water from saline evaporation basins

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition comprising an extract of Criste Marine and water from saline evaporation basins, its manufacturing process, and its use as an anti-aging active ingredient and as an anti-aging cosmetic composition.

[0002] The skin is an essential organ of the human body, playing a crucial role as a physical barrier as well as in our physical appearance and overall well-being. It is composed of three main layers: the epidermis, the dermis, and the hypodermis (or subcutis).

[0003] The skin is constantly exposed to various aggressions, both internal and external. Endogenous factors include the natural aging process, which leads to progressive changes at the cellular and tissue level of the skin. Exogenous factors include sun exposure, pollution, smoking, oxidative stress and other environmental aggressions.

[0004] Skin aging is a complex and multifactorial process, characterized by a series of undesirable changes.

[0005] Among these changes, we can mention the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. The main cause of their appearance is the decrease in the production of collagen and elastin in the skin, with age. These proteins are responsible for the firmness and elasticity of the skin. Exposure to the sun, repeated movements of facial muscles and genetic factors, which are causes of degradation of these proteins and contribute to the formation of these wrinkles and fine lines. Fine lines are small, fine lines that usually form around the eyes (crow's feet) and the mouth. Wrinkles, on the other hand, are deeper and more pronounced folds that usually appear on the forehead, between the eyebrows (frown lines) and around the mouth.

[0006] Another effect of aging is the loss of skin elasticity, which is mainly due to the decrease in elastin production in the dermis, resulting in less supple and firm skin. Sun exposure and certain lifestyle habits can also accelerate this process. Among the visible effects, the skin loses its firmness and its ability to return to its original shape after being stretched. This can lead to sagging skin, wrinkles, and a less toned appearance of the skin.

[0007] Yet another commonly observed effect is the loss of evenness of the complexion. Skin aging can in fact cause a decrease in cell renewal, an accumulation of dead cells on the surface of the skin, as well as a Increased sensitivity to sun damage or other environmental stressors. Uneven skin tone is characterized by dark spots (hyperpigmentation), red spots (erythrosis), age spots (solar lentigines), and skin imperfections. Skin may appear dull and less luminous.

[0008] Another effect of skin aging is the loss of skin volume in specific areas. With age, the face can lose volume due to the decrease in subcutaneous fat, bone resorption, and the redistribution of fatty tissue. Visible effects include a more sunken face, less prominent cheekbones, sagging cheeks, and a more hollow appearance under the eyes.

[0009] Another aspect of this skin aging effect is also the thinning of the skin, due to the decrease in the production of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid. The sebaceous glands also produce less sebum, which can contribute to thinner skin. The skin may then appear more fragile, delicate and sensitive. It may be prone to more frequent bruising and have a more translucent appearance.

[0010] Yet another commonly observed effect is the dilation of pores. Skin aging can thus lead to a loss of collagen and elastin around the pores, which can make them more visible and dilated. Enlarged pores can give the skin a rough and uneven appearance, especially on the T-zone of the face (forehead, nose and chin).

[0011] Another effect of skin aging is also dry skin, caused by the skin's loss of ability to retain water with age. Environmental factors such as sun exposure, wind, and climate changes can also contribute to dry skin. Dry skin can then appear dull, scaly, rough, and itchy. Fine lines may be more visible on dehydrated skin.

[0012] Also, another effect can be the alteration of the definition of the contours of the face, caused by a loss of certain volumes, a decrease in elasticity and sagging skin. The face can then appear less sculpted and less defined. The contours of the cheeks and jaw may become less clear.

[0013] Another aspect of skin aging is the appearance of skin folds that can be caused by repeated movements of facial muscles and the loss of collagen and elastin. These skin folds can appear around the mouth, nose, and other areas of the face that are subject to these repeated movements.

[0014] Finally, a final observed effect may be the appearance of varicose veins and visible blood vessels. With age, the skin loses its elasticity, which can lead to dilation of the small blood vessels under the skin's surface. Exposure to Sun exposure and certain genetic factors can also contribute to their appearance. Spider veins and visible blood vessels can give the skin a reddish appearance, especially on the face and cheeks.

[0015] The cause is the extracellular matrix (ECM), which provides the structure and firmness of the skin. The ECM plays a crucial role in the biomechanical properties of the skin. The ECM is a complex three-dimensional network of proteins, glycoproteins, and polysaccharides that surrounds skin cells and maintains their structure. It acts as a dynamic, supportive "skeleton," giving the skin its strength, elasticity, and flexibility. The main components of the ECM are collagen, elastin, and proteoglycans. Collagen, in particular, plays a key role in providing tensile strength, while elastin gives the skin its ability to regain its shape after deformation. Proteoglycans retain water, promoting skin hydration and contributing to its smooth, supple appearance. The ECM also interacts with skin cells, regulating their function and behavior.ECM balance is essential for maintaining skin integrity, and any alteration of its components can lead to dermatological problems such as wrinkles, loss of elasticity, and wound healing problems. Understanding the role of ECM in the biomechanical properties of the skin is crucial for the development of treatments and cosmetic products aimed at improving the health and appearance of the skin.

[0016] Also, aging skin loses its ability to protect itself effectively against external aggressions, making it more vulnerable to damage caused by the environment.

[0017] Faced with these undesirable effects of skin aging, there is a growing need for solutions aimed at repairing and reducing its visible signs. People are looking for effective products and treatments to maintain or restore healthy, firm, hydrated and radiant skin.

[0018] Currently, various solutions are offered on the market to meet this growing demand. There are cosmetic products containing specific active ingredients to target the signs of aging. Some medical treatments, such as filler injections or surgical procedures, are also used to reduce wrinkles and fine lines.

[0019] However, despite advances in this field, there are still challenges to be overcome in developing completely effective and safe solutions. Some current solutions can be expensive, invasive or have undesirable side effects.

[0020] Therefore, it is clear that research and development of new approaches, both innovative and effective, to repair and reduce the effects of skin aging, remain an important area of interest and investigation for the cosmetic and medical industry.

[0021] In this context, natural cosmetic compositions, particularly those certified COSMOS, are attracting increasing interest to solve the problems of skin aging in an effective and environmentally friendly manner. These formulations favor the use of ingredients of natural origin, thus avoiding the use of substances potentially harmful to the skin and the environment. COSMOS certified products meet strict standards of quality and sustainability, guaranteeing an approach that respects nature and biodiversity. These compositions incorporate natural active ingredients recognized for their anti-aging properties, such as plant extracts, vegetable oils rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and essential fatty acids.Thanks to their gentle and non-aggressive formulation, COSMOS-certified natural cosmetic products can provide deep hydration, restore the skin barrier, improve skin elasticity, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. They can thus help preserve the skin's youthfulness and radiance while respecting its natural balance. By choosing COSMOS-certified natural cosmetic compositions, consumers benefit from a holistic approach to combat the effects of skin aging, while contributing to the preservation of the environment and biodiversity.

[0022] Thus, there is a growing need to provide natural cosmetic compositions offering deep skin hydration, restoration of the skin barrier, improvement of skin elasticity, reduction of wrinkles and fine lines, thereby helping to preserve the youthfulness and radiance of the skin while respecting its natural balance.

[0023] The composition according to the present invention meets these objectives.

[0024] The object according to the present invention thus relates to a composition comprising an extract of Criste marine (or Crithmum maritimum) and water from a saline evaporation basin.

[0025] It has in fact been discovered that this composition has anti-aging properties for the skin.

[0026] Crithmum maritimum also called sea fennel, sea fennel, sea fennel or rock fennel (is a perennial plant belonging to the Apiaceae (Umbelliferae) family). Sea fennel typically grows on cliffs and seaside rocks. It is a halophilic plant that is resistant to drought. Sea fennel draws water from deep down and stores it in its fleshy leaves. Sea fennel can be used as a condiment.

[0027] Saline evaporation ponds, also called salt marshes or salines, are installations intended to extract and collect salt (typically marine) from a resource such as seawater. Typically, resource water (such as seawater) is carried by gravity during medium and high tides through a network of intake channels called étiers, to intermediate reservoirs or basins, called mudflats and ademes. From there, the water is then carried into collection basins called crystallizers or oeillets. Throughout this journey, the salinity increases steadily until it reaches the crystallizers. This phenomenon is amplified in the warm season.

[0028] According to certain embodiments, the composition according to the invention comprising an extract of Criste marine and water from a saline evaporation basin has a pH value of between around 3.0 and around 5.0, in particular around 4.0.

[0029] According to certain embodiments, the composition according to the invention comprising an extract of Criste marine and water from a saline evaporation basin has a mass proportion of dry matter of between around 15.0% and around 20% relative to the mass of composition according to the invention, in particular of between around 17.0% and around 19% relative to the mass of composition according to the invention, preferably of between around 18.0% and around 19% relative to the mass of composition according to the invention, more preferably of around 18.2% relative to the mass of composition according to the invention.

[0030] According to certain embodiments, the composition according to the invention comprising an extract of Criste marine and water from a saline evaporation basin has a concentration of total phenols, as measured by the Folin-Ciocalteu method, of between the order of 0.5 g / L and the order of 1.0 g / L of composition according to the invention, in particular of between the order of 0.6 g / L and the order of 0.7 g / L of composition according to the invention, preferably of the order of 0.66 g / L of composition according to the invention. The standard used in the Folin-Ciocalteu method is gallic acid monohydrate.

[0031] According to certain embodiments, the composition according to the invention comprising an extract of Criste marine and water from a saline evaporation basin has a concentration of reducing sugars, according to the Nelson Somogyi method, of between around 5.0 g / L and around 15.0 g / L, in particular between around 9.0 g / L and around 11.0 g / L, of composition according to the invention. The standard used for the Nelson Somogyi method is a 1 / 1 mixture by mass of D-glucose and D(-)-fructose.

[0032] According to certain embodiments, the composition according to the invention comprising a Criste marine extract and water from a saline evaporation basin has a protein concentration, as measured by the Kjeldahl method, comprising between the order of 5.0 g / L and the order of 15.0 g / L of composition according to the invention, in particular between the order of 8.0 g / L and the order of 10.0 g / L of composition according to the invention, preferably between the order of 8.0 g / L and the order of 9.0 g / L of composition according to the invention, in particular of the order of 8.75 g / L of composition according to the invention. The conversion factor of total nitrogen into protein is 6.25 ([protein]=6.25x[N]).

[0033] Advantageously, the water from evaporation basins is Guérande mother water.

[0034] A mother water is a residual water, remaining in an evaporation basin after collection of salt - typically in September in the northern hemisphere - from salt marshes, ultra-concentrated - in particular such saturated water - in salt and minerals. A mother water is so concentrated that it acquires a thick or even almost viscous character. In addition, it contains many natural elements. According to the invention, a Guérande mother water is a mother water collected in the locality of Guérande, in France.

[0035] In a particular embodiment, the Criste marine extract is an aqueous extract.

[0036] By "aqueous extract" of Criste marine, we mean a product extracted from Criste marine in a dispersed or solubilized state in a fluid - in particular a liquid - comprising water.

[0037] Advantageously, the aqueous extract of Criste marine comprises a level of polyphenols of between about 1 g / L and about 3 g / L of aqueous extract of Criste marine, in particular of between about 1 g / L and about 2 g / L of aqueous extract of Criste marine. According to certain embodiments, the aqueous extract of Criste marine comprises a level of polyphenols of between about 0.5 g / L and about 2 g / L of aqueous extract of Criste marine, preferably of about 0.66 g / L of aqueous extract of Criste marine.

[0038] Polyphenols are organic compounds widely present in the plant kingdom, comprising at least two phenolic groups associated in a more or less complex structure and generally of high molecular weight. Polyphenols can exhibit antioxidant properties, these antioxidant properties having beneficial effects on health. These antioxidant properties of polyphenols can be linked to the chemical aromaticity of the phenolic groups.

[0039] Advantageously, the process for extracting Criste marine is an enzymatic extraction process.

[0040] Indeed, an enzymatic extraction process is a particularly effective means of targeting the deterioration of structuring molecules of the Criste marine, thus allowing the release of the components of interest.

[0041] Advantageously, an enzymatic extraction method as described in patent application WO2011 / 045387 can be adapted within the framework of the present invention.

[0042] According to certain embodiments, the enzymatic extraction method comprises a step of adding an enzymatic composition to an aqueous suspension of Criste marine and incubating the mixture of the aqueous suspension of Criste marine and the enzymatic composition, the enzymatic composition comprising at least one cellulase, at least one hemicellulase and at least one pectinase.

[0043] According to certain embodiments, at least one cellulase is selected from the group consisting of betaglucosidases, endocellulases and exocellulases. According to certain embodiments, at least one hemicellulase is selected from the group consisting of arabinanases, xylanases and galactanase. According to certain embodiments, at least one pectinase is selected from the group consisting of endopolygalacturonases and pectin methylesterases.

[0044] According to certain embodiments; - the ratio between the activity of pectinase and the activity of cellulase being at least 0.14, preferably between 0.3 and 2.5, and more preferably between 0.35 and 0.45, and - the ratio between the activity of pectinase and the activity of hemicellulase being at least 7.103, preferably between 1.102 and 0.5, and more preferably between 1.102 and 2.10 2, - the pectinase activity being less than 120 pmol / min / ml, and preferably less than 100 pmol / min / ml.

[0045] According to certain embodiments, the incubation of the mixture of the aqueous suspension of Criste marine and the enzymatic composition is carried out at a temperature of between about 25°C and about 75°C, in particular between about 40°C and about 60°C, more preferably between about 45°C and about 55°C, for example about 50°C. The temperature is adapted according to the optimal activity temperature of each enzyme in the enzymatic composition.

[0046] According to certain embodiments, the mixture of the aqueous suspension of Criste marine and the enzymatic composition is incubated for a period of time of the order of 2 hours and of the order of 20 hours, preferably between the order of 2 hours and the order of 4 hours.

[0047] According to certain embodiments, the enzymatic extraction process used to obtain the extract of Criste marine is a process of enzymatic extraction in aqueous medium of the extract of Criste marine and comprises the following successive steps: a) addition of water to particles of Criste marine having a particle size suitable so as to form an aqueous suspension of Criste marine, b) addition to the aqueous suspension of Criste marine of an enzymatic composition comprising at least one cellulase, at least one hemicellulase and at least one pectinase, the ratio between the activity of the pectinase and the activity of the cellulase being at least 0.14, preferably between 0.3 and 2.5, and more preferably between 0.35 and 0.45, and the ratio between the activity of pectinase and the activity of hemicellulase being at least 7.103, preferably between 1.102 and 0.5, and more preferably between 1.102 and 2.102, the pectinase activity being less than 120 pmol / min / ml, and preferably less than 100 pmol / min / ml, c) incubation with stirring of the suspension of Criste marine and the enzymatic composition to form in the reaction medium a hydrolyzate of Criste marine, for a duration depending on the biological activity sought, d) fractionation of the reaction medium to form an aqueous phase containing the extract of Criste marine, a solid phase and, where appropriate, an oily phase, e) optionally separation of an emulsion from the oily phase or the aqueous phase, and recycling of the emulsion in the reaction medium.

[0048] Preferably, the mass ratio between the extract of Criste marine and the water from a saline evaporation basin is between 1:1 and 2:1, preferably approximately 1.5:1.

[0049] More preferably, the quantity of the extract - in particular of the aqueous extract - of Criste Marine is between around 50% and around 70%, in particular between around 55% and around 65%, in particular around 60% by mass relative to the total quantity of composition.

[0050] In one embodiment, the quantity of water from the saline evaporation basin is between around 30% and around 50% by mass relative to the total quantity of composition, in particular between around 35% and around 45% by mass relative to the total quantity of composition, in particular around 40% by mass relative to the total quantity of composition.

[0051] The composition according to the present invention can be used as an anti-aging active product.

[0052] In one embodiment, the composition according to the present invention is diluted in an anti-aging composition.

[0053] Thus, the composition according to the present invention can be in any form suitable for its administration.

[0054] Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention is characterized in that it is a topical composition.

[0055] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is characterized in that it is a cream, a lotion, an ointment, a milk, a cream, a gel, an emulsion, a dispersion, a solution, a suspension, a cleanser, a foundation, a mousse, a serum, a sprayable formulation, a body and bath oil, an ointment, a colloid or a lacquer.

[0056] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the present invention is characterized in that it is a cosmetic composition.

[0057] An object according to the present invention also relates to a method of manufacturing a composition according to the invention.

[0058] Thus, a method of manufacturing a composition, as defined above, comprises the following successive steps: a2) water from a saline evaporation basin is added to an aqueous extract of Criste marine to obtain an anti-aging composition, and b2) where appropriate, an incorporation of the anti-aging composition obtained in step (a2) into a cosmetic matrix during a step of cooling said matrix.

[0059] Furthermore, an object according to the present invention relates to a use of a cosmetic composition according to the present invention as an anti-aging cosmetic composition.

[0060] An object according to the present invention also relates to a use of a composition according to the present invention as an anti-aging cosmetic active agent.

[0061] The invention will be clearly understood upon reading the following description and the exemplary embodiments.

[0062] EXAMPLES

[0063] PREPARATION OF AN AQUEOUS EXTRACT OF MARINE SALT IN A PRODUCTION PILOT

[0064] ENZYMATIC HYDROLYSIS

[0065] 55 kg of Criste Marine with a humidity level of 16.0% are coarsely ground Fully macro-cutting to reduce particle size. 53 kg of coarsely ground Criste Marine are recovered and subjected to size reduction by micro-cutting. Micro-cutting requires pre-humidification of the Criste Marine to prevent it from catching fire. 52 kg of finely ground Criste Marine are obtained, not including the mass of water added for pre-humidification.

[0066] The enzymatic hydrolysis is carried out in a thermostatically controlled tank with a maximum capacity of 600L with agitation control. For this enzymatic hydrolysis step, 214 kg of mains water are added to the 52 kg of crushed Criste marine. The mixture is stirred and heated to a temperature of 80°C for a sufficient time to inactivate endogenous enzymes. After cooling to 50°C, a quantity of 2.6 kg of an enzyme mixture comprising at least one cellulase, at least one hemicellulase and at least one pectinase is added to the aqueous suspension of Criste marine. The resulting suspension is thick and no water is added, however.

[0067] After 4 hours of enzymatic hydrolysis, the suspension is more fluid and attests to the hydrolysis. The enzymes are then inactivated by bringing the reaction mixture to a temperature of 80°C.

[0068] FRACTIONATION OF THE HYDROLYSIS SUSPENSION

[0069] A fractionation of the hydrolysis suspension is carried out in a “Tricanter” in 3-phase mode under the conditions described in Table 1 below. This fractionation made it possible to form an aqueous phase which was filtered at 0.2 pm. The quantities obtained are presented in Table 4 below. Pilot Extraction Raw Material Dried Criste Marine Raw Material (kg) 52 Water (kg) 214 Cellulase, Hemicellulase and Pectinase Enzyme Mix Enzymes (g) 2600 Deactivation of Endogenous Enzymes (before reaction) yes Deactivation of Enzymes (after reaction) yes Reaction Time (h) 4(2+2) Temperature (°C) 50 Centrifugation Tricanter Centrifugation Speed 75% Centrifugation Time 85% (screw speed) 10% (pump flow) Aqueous Phase Yield per kg of Material 180 kg 3.4 Wet Flour (kg) 86.0 Table 1: Experimental conditions and yields

[0070] 96% of the initial mass used is recovered. A clear increase is observed measurement of the yield of the aqueous phase compared to a test carried out on a laboratory scale.

[0071] FILTRATION OF THE AQUEOUS PHASE

[0072] The crude aqueous phase obtained was filtered at a threshold of 1.5-3 qm and then at 0.22 qm after formulation. Table 2 shows the filtration data. [Tables 2] Extract type Quantity obtained Crude extract after centrifugation 180 kg Extract after filtration 1.5-3pm 150 kg Table 2: Aqueous phase filtration data

[0073] CHARACTERIZATION OF THE AQUEOUS PHASE (“PILOT PA”)

[0074] The aqueous phase obtained was characterized, the results are presented in Table 3. [Tables 3] Pilot PA Extraction PH 4.81 Dry matter (%) 9.96 Total phenols (g / L) Folin-Ciocalteu method 1.2 Reducing sugars (g / L) Nelson-Somogyi method 17.3 Proteins (g / L) Kjeldahl method 14.0 Table 3: Characterization of the aqueous phase. “PA”: aqueous phase

[0075] FILTRATION AND FORMULATION OF THE AQUEOUS PHASE

[0076] The aqueous phase “PA Pilote” obtained by fractionation of the enzymatic hydrolyzate carried out on the production pilot was filtered to a porosity of 0.2qm (sterilizing filtration). The mass of the aqueous phase after filtration is 142 kg.

[0077] After filtration, this aqueous phase was formulated with 0.4% sodium benzoate (0.56 kg) and 0.2% citric acid (0.28 kg).

[0078] After dissolving the preservatives, 94.7 kg of mother liquors were added to have a proportion of 60% formulated aqueous phase and 40% mother liquors.

[0079] The total mass of the formulated product (“PAF PILOTE”) is 237 kg. The product is stored at room temperature for a period of one month for maturation. After one month of maturation at room temperature, the 237 kg of formulated product present a significant precipitate. A final filtration is carried out on a 40cm*40cm plate filter at 1.0 pm then on a 40cm*40cm plate filter at 0.22 pm.

[0080] Following this filtration, the composition according to the invention containing an aqueous extract of Criste marine, filtered (210 kg final) is packaged in 21 cans of 10 kg.

[0081] The extract was then characterized, the results are presented in Table 4. [Tables 4] Extraction PAF PILOTE 030505 PH 4.02 Dry matter (%) 18.25 Total phenols (g / L) Folin-Ciocalteu method 0.66 Reducing sugars (g / L) 10.17 Proteins (g / L) Kjeldahl method 8.75 Table 4: Characterization of the finished product PAF PILOTE 030505

[0082] This preparation underwent an objectification test via a method of measuring the expression of targeted genes (anti-aging) by genomic chip.

[0083] PRODUCT TESTS

[0084] The objective was to evaluate the effectiveness of a product according to the present invention on gene expression within human skin cells. To do this, microfluidic technology was used. Microfluidic technology is the result of the intersection of the world of nanotechnologies and gene analysis by RT-qPCR. This technology has several advantages: it generates a large amount of data during the same experiment, which makes it possible to anticipate and guide the development of the product according to the results obtained. It is also possible to choose the genes of interest according to the project as well as the biological models.

[0085] BIOLOGICAL MODEL

[0086] The study was carried out on primary cultures of human fibroblasts from normal skin and on primary cultures of human keratinocytes from normal epidermis, respectively representative of normal dermis and epidermis.

[0087] EVALUATION OF THE COMPOSITION ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION “PAF PILOTE 030505”

[0088] The conditions tested are: - Untreated NHEK - NHEK + AA Expert Asset 0.1% - Untreated NHDF - NHDF + AA Expert Asset 0.1%

[0089] The composition “PAF PILOTE 030505” according to the invention is diluted in the appropriate culture medium to 1%. The stock solution is filtered (0.22qm). The composition “PAF PILOTE 030505” is then diluted to a concentration of 0.1%.

[0090] The diluted “PAF PILOTE 030505” composition was incubated with the cells for 24 hours.

[0091] TRANSCRIPTOMIC CHIP ANALYSIS METHODS

[0092] In these examples, the expression of messenger RNA is measured by the quantitative RT-PCR (reverse transcription followed by polymerase chain reaction) technique, after in vitro incubation of the different cell types in the absence or presence of the composition "PAF PILOTE 030505" according to the invention. This study is carried out on a primary culture of normal skin human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF "Normal Human Dermal Fibroblast") or on a primary culture of normal skin human keratinocytes (NHEK "Normal Human Epidermal Keratinocyte). The cells are cultured at a concentration of 10,000 cells per well of 96-well plates, in the presence of standard culture medium chosen according to the cell type. The compound is then added at a mass concentration of 0.1%, for 24 hours.

[0093] The supernatant is removed and the cells are taken up in a specific buffer for the extraction of messenger RNA (mRNA). The mRNAs are purified and reverse-transcribed in the presence of a commercial reverse transcriptase. The complementary DNA (cDNA) obtained is quantified by RT-PCR, using appropriate primers.

[0094] GENES STUDIED

[0095] Effects on the genes of interest: effect of the compound PAF PILOTE 030505 in accordance with the invention on the expression of two genes in fibroblasts (normal humans): COL3A1 and COL5A1 and of one gene in keratinocytes (normal humans): TINF2.

[0096] COL3A1 is a gene coding for Type III Collagen, essential to the extracellular matrix and regularly found associated with type I.

[0097] COL5A1 is a gene coding for Type V Collagen, located in connective tissues, it is also associated with type I.

[0098] TINF2 is a gene coding for the TINF2 protein, which participates in the “Shelterin” protein complex, which protects telomeres.

[0099] The results obtained compared to the basal level (absence of compound), are shown in Table 5 below: [Tables 5] Genes tested Gene expression compared to basal level COL3A1 +120% COL5A1 +130% TINF2 +260% Table 5: Effect of the compound PAF PILOTE 030505 on the expression of COL3A1, COL5A1 by NHEK cells and TINF2 by NHEF cells, treated or not with the compound PAF PILOTE 030505

[0100] ANALYSIS OF RESULTS

[0101] The specificity of each primer pair is verified for all cellular conditions by analysis of the dissociation curves and the problematic points presenting double peaks are removed from the analysis.

[0102] Each CT is then brought back to the reference genes and the control cell condition to calculate the AACT and the relative expression is calculated as a function of the AACT using the formula 2-AACT.

[0103] For each cell condition, the standard error of the mean (SEM) is calculated and points with excessively large SEMs (>40% difference between the SEM and the mean of the 3 values) are removed from the analysis.

[0104] The genes are then classified by cell type to eliminate data that do not match the cellular models.

[0105] The percentages of activation and inhibition of gene expression are presented.

[0106] The results are expressed as a percentage of overexpression or underexpression relative to the reference condition.

[0107] The genes are then classified by biological activity to facilitate reading.

[0108] RESULTS

[0109] The results are presented below. Presented here are gene expression changes greater than 50% induction and less than 50% inhibition.

[0110] The product was tested on a DNA chip which made it possible to highlight activities of interest which could justify several cosmetic claims. (See table below). [Tableauxô] Active 0.1% Moisturizing + Plumping / anti-wrinkle + Dermal regeneration / anti-wrinkle +++ Restructuring Firming ++ Regenerating, revitalizing ++ Preventive anti-aging 0 Soothing 0 Barrier function ++ Complexion radiance + Table 6: Cosmetic Activities

[0111] The tested product activates the expression of genes involved in the organization and structure of the extracellular matrix. An increase in genes promoting collagen production was observed, as well as genes improving the structure of the dermis. The product appears to truly act on this specific function.

[0112] The product activates several genes involved in cohesion and the basal lamina. The restructuring of the basal lamina which constitutes the Dermo-epidermal Junction (DEJ) and the strengthening of the anchoring of cells to this basal lamina is an anti-aging concept of interest.

[0113] The product activates the expression of genes involved in hydration and barrier function. These genes play a crucial role in the formation of the skin barrier and the maintenance of the integrity and water balance of the skin.

[0114] Hydration and barrier function are synergistic functions, these effects suggest that the product could protect the skin from dehydration.

[0115] Finally, the product promotes the expression of two natural pigmentation inhibitors which could induce an anti-pigmenting effect.

Claims

Claims

1. Composition comprising an extract of Criste marine and water from an evaporation basin of a saltworks.

2. Composition according to claim 1 characterized in that it has a pH value of between around 3.0 and around 5.

0.

3. Composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that it has a mass proportion of dry matter of between around 15.0% and around 20% relative to the mass of the composition.

4. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it has a concentration of total phenols, as measured by the Folin-Ciocalteu method, of between around 0.5 g / L and around 1.0 g / L of composition.

5. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it has a concentration of reducing sugars of between around 5.0 g / L and around 15.0 g / L of composition.

6. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it has a protein concentration, as measured by the Kjeldahl method, of between the order of 5.0 g / L and the order of 15.0 g / L of composition.

7. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the water from an evaporation basin is a Guérande mother water.

8. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the extract of Criste marine is an aqueous extract.

9. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the aqueous extract of Criste marine comprises a level of polyphenols of between around 1 g / L and around 3 g / L of aqueous extract of Criste marine, preferably around 1.2 g / L of aqueous extract of Criste marine.

10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the Criste Marine extraction process is an enzymatic extraction process.

11. Composition according to claim 10, characterized in that the enzymatic extraction method comprises a step of adding an enzymatic composition to an aqueous suspension of Criste marine and incubating the mixture of the aqueous suspension of Criste marine and the enzymatic composition, the enzymatic composition comprising at least one cellulase, at least one hemicellulase and at least one pectinase.

12. Composition according to claim 11, characterized in that: - the ratio between the activity of the pectinase and the activity of the cellulase being at least 0.14, preferably between 0.3 and 2.5, and more preferably between 0.35 and 0.45, and - the ratio between the activity of the pectinase and the activity of the hemicellulase being at least 7.103, preferably between 1.102 and 0.5, and more preferably between 1.102 and 2.102, - the activity of the pectinase being less than 120 pmol / min / ml, and preferably less than 100 pmol / min / ml.

13. Composition according to one of claims 10 or 11, characterized in that the process for the enzymatic extraction of Criste Marine is a process for the enzymatic extraction in aqueous medium of oils, proteins and fermentable sugars and comprises the following successive steps: a) addition of water to Criste Marine having an appropriate particle size, b) addition of an enzymatic mixture containing at least one cellulase, at least one hemicellulase and at least one pectinase, the ratio between the activity of the pectinase and the activity of the cellulase being at least 0.14, preferably between 0.3 and 2.5, and more preferably between 0.35 and 0.45, and the ratio between the activity of the pectinase and the activity of the hemicellulase being at least 7.103, preferably between 1.10 2 and 0.5, and more preferably between 1.102 and 2.102, the activity of the pectinase being less than 120 pmol / min / ml, and preferably less than 100 pmol / min / ml, c) incubation with stirring of the Criste Marine and the enzymatic mixture to release into the reaction medium oils, proteins and fermentable sugars, for a duration depending on the desired yields, d) separation of the reaction medium to obtain free oil, an aqueous phase containing proteins and fermentable sugars, and a solid phase, e) optionally separation of an emulsion of the free oil or the aqueous phase, and recycling of the emulsion into the reaction medium, and f) separation of the proteins and fermentable sugars from the aqueous phase.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the mass ratio between the extract of Criste Marine and the water from the saline evaporation basin is between 1:1 and 2:1, preferably approximately 1.5:

1.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the quantity of Criste Marine extract is between around 50% and around 70% by mass relative to the total quantity of composition.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the quantity of water from the saline evaporation basin is between around 30% and around 50% by mass relative to the total quantity of composition.

17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is a topical composition.

18. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17, characterized in that it is a cream, a lotion, an ointment, a milk, a cream, a gel, an emulsion, a dispersion, a solution, a suspension, a cleanser, a foundation, a mousse, a serum, a sprayable formulation, a body and bath oil, an ointment, a colloid or a lacquer.

19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is a cosmetic composition.

20. Process for manufacturing a composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the following successive steps a2) water from a saline evaporation basin is added to an aqueous extract of Criste Marine to obtain an anti-aging composition, and b2) optional incorporation where appropriate of the anti-aging composition obtained in step (a2) into a cosmetic matrix during a step of cooling said matrix.

21. Use of a cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 19 as an anti-aging cosmetic composition.

22. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 19 as an anti-aging cosmetic active ingredient.