Cosmetic water-in-oil emulsion comprising a volatile oil, a hydrophobic film-forming polymer, a polyoxyalkylenated linear polydimethylmethylsiloxane and a vitamin B3.
A water-in-oil emulsion with volatile oils, a hydrophobic film-forming polymer, and vitamin B3 addresses the limitations of water-soluble UV filters, offering effective skin imperfection masking and a natural appearance without uneven coverage.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2024000443
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-01-17
- Publication Date
- 2025-07-18
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic compositions containing water-soluble organic UV filters, such as benzylidene camphorsulfonic acid and benzoxazole sulfonic acid groups, limit the range of products and result in uneven skin coverage, making it difficult to effectively mask skin imperfections and provide a natural appearance.
A water-in-oil emulsion comprising volatile oils, a hydrophobic film-forming polymer, and vitamin B3, without water-soluble organic UV filters, to achieve a blurring effect that smooths and masks skin imperfections, providing good coverage and a natural appearance.
The composition effectively masks skin imperfections, reduces relief marking, and provides a natural appearance while maintaining stability during storage and temperature variations.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Cosmetic water-in-oil emulsion comprising a volatile oil, a hydrophobic film-forming polymer, a polyoxyalkylenated linear polydimethylmethylsiloxane and a vitamin B3. Technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to the field of care and / or makeup of keratin materials, and aims to propose compositions more particularly dedicated to the care and / or makeup of the skin.
[0002] The skin is not a smooth, solid-colored surface and has reliefs and microreliefs such as pores, fine lines, wrinkles, spots, scars, dry areas, which form a somewhat bumpy surface. Quite often, this surface, with its irregularities, forms a whole that is pleasant to look at, but the irregularities are such that sometimes the surface is considered unsightly.
[0003] Cosmetic makeup and / or care compositions are commonly used to camouflage, smooth and / or unify imperfections in the skin's texture such as pores, wrinkles and / or fine lines and / or scars. In this regard, numerous formulations, solid or fluid, anhydrous or not, have been developed to date.
[0004] The application of a makeup composition such as a foundation is the most effective approach to beautify uneven skin by hiding spots and dyschromia, reducing the visibility of relief imperfections such as pores and wrinkles, and masking spots and acne marks; in this regard, coverage is one of the main properties sought. These compositions generally use high quantities of pigments based on metal oxides such as iron oxides and titanium oxides combined with particles called fillers having a soft focus effect. However, these compositions tend to accumulate in reliefs such as pores and wrinkles, leading to an uneven deposit on the skin, marking imperfections and giving a matte finish perceived as unnatural on the skin.
[0005] Water-in-oil emulsions are galenic forms that are highly sought after for their ease of application to the skin and their sensoriality in cosmetics in the field of care, particularly in sunscreen compositions, in anti-aging compositions and in makeup such as foundations.
[0006] Emulsions can be defined as heterogeneous systems comprising at least two immiscible liquid phases, or having a very low miscibility between them. In these systems, one of the phases is dispersed in the form of fine droplets in the other phase, so as to observe a macroscopically homogeneous mixture with the naked eye. Conventionally, the formulator of cosmetic compositions uses emulsified systems combining an aqueous phase for freshness and an oily phase for comfort. They allow the association within the same composition of cosmetic ingredients or active ingredients having distinct affinities with respect to these two aqueous and oily phases, immiscible at room temperature.
[0007] Inverse emulsion type compositions (water-in-oil emulsion, the aqueous phase being in a dispersed form in the continuous fatty phase) have numerous advantages, with regard to the good level of coverage and the homogeneous appearance that they provide compared to direct emulsions (oil-in-water emulsions).
[0008] In published patent application WO2022199974, a composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising: (a) at least one continuous oily phase comprising at least one non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oil, and b) at least one aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase, comprising at least one water-soluble organic UV filter comprising at least one benzylidene camphorsulfonic acid group and / or at least one water-soluble organic UV filter comprising at least one benzoxazole sulfonic acid group, and (d) at least one inorganic base capable of partially or totally neutralizing said water-soluble organic UV filter(s); and
[0009] e) at least one hydrophobic film-forming polymer, and f) at least one emulsifying surfactant chosen from linear polyoxyalkylenated polydimethylmethyl-siloxanes with HLB < 8.0.
[0010] Also proposed in the published patent application WO2023094277 are compositions in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising: a) at least one continuous oily phase comprising at least one volatile oil chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile silicone oils and their mixtures, and b) at least one aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase, comprising at least one water-soluble organic UV filter comprising at least one benzylidene camphorsulfonic acid group and / or at least one water-soluble organic UV filter comprising at least one benzoxazole sulfonic acid group, and c) at least one organic or inorganic base capable of partially or totally neutralizing said water-soluble organic UV filter(s); and
[0011] d) at least one hydrophobic film-forming polymer, and e) at least one emulsifying surfactant chosen from linear polyoxyalkylenated polydimethylmethylsiloxanes with HLB < 8.0, and (f) at least one vitamin B 3; said composition not containing non-volatile ester oil.
[0012] However, the obligatory presence of one or more of said water-soluble organic UV filters in these compositions to obtain a blurring effect, to smooth and effectively mask skin imperfections and to substantially reduce or even eliminate the effects of relief marking, greatly limits the extent of the range of products.
[0013] There therefore remains a need to find new compositions for caring for and / or making up keratin materials in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion not containing a water-soluble organic UV filter comprising at least one benzylidene camphorsulfonic acid group or a water-soluble organic UV filter comprising at least one benzoxazole sulfonic acid group, making it possible to obtain a good blurring effect to smooth and effectively mask skin imperfections and to substantially reduce or even eliminate the effects of marking reliefs.
[0014] During its research, the applicant surprisingly discovered that this objective could be achieved with a composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising: a) at least one continuous oily phase comprising at least one volatile oil chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile silicone oils and their mixtures, and b) at least one aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase, the quantity of water being greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and (c) at least one hydrophobic film-forming polymer, and d) at least one emulsifying surfactant chosen from linear polyoxyalkylenated polydimethylmethylsiloxanes with HLB < 8.0, and e) at least 3.0% by weight of a vitamin B3 and / or one of its derivatives relative to the total weight of the composition; said composition not containing a water-soluble organic UV filter comprising at least one benzylidene camphorsulfonic acid group nor a water-soluble organic UV filter comprising at least one benzoxazole sulfonic acid group.
[0015] During its research, the applicant surprisingly discovered that, in the composition of the invention, vitamin B3 and / or one of its derivatives produced a blurring effect.
[0016] The compositions according to the invention are stable during storage, in particular to temperature variations, and make it possible to smooth and effectively mask waterproof materials. skin imperfections thanks to good coverage performance and to substantially reduce or even eliminate the effects of relief marking and masking on keratin materials such as skin. They allow for good homogenization of the complexion, a natural appearance as well as satisfactory cosmetic properties for consumer comfort.
[0017] In the context of the present invention, the expression "blurring effect" designates a blurred effect which camouflages the micro-reliefs of the skin. This effect makes it possible in particular to optically attenuate skin defects such as spots, wrinkles or fine lines.
[0018] This discovery is the basis of the invention.
[0019] The present invention relates to a composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, in particular comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, comprising: a) at least one continuous oily phase comprising at least one volatile oil chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile silicone oils and their mixtures, and b) at least one aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase, the quantity of water being greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; d) at least one hydrophobic film-forming polymer, and c) at least one emulsifying surfactant chosen from linear polyoxyalkylenated polydimethylmethyl-siloxanes with HLB < 8.0, and f) at least 3.0% by weight of a vitamin B3 and / or one of its derivatives relative to the total weight of the composition; said composition not containing a water-soluble organic UV filter comprising at least one benzylidene camphorsulfonic acid group nor a water-soluble organic UV filter comprising at least one benzoxazole sulfonic acid group.
[0020] The invention also relates to a process for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, characterized in that it comprises the application to the keratin materials of a composition as defined above.
[0021] The invention relates more particularly to a process for making up and / or caring for the skin, characterized in that it comprises the application to the skin of an emulsion as defined above.
[0022] The invention also relates to the use of at least one vitamin B3 and / or one of its derivatives in a composition as defined above as an agent producing a blurring effect on keratin materials after application. Definitions
[0023] In the context of the present invention, by keratin materials is meant the skin and especially areas such as the face, cheeks, hands, body, legs and thighs, eye area, eyelids.
[0024] By physiologically acceptable, we mean compatible with the skin and / or its appendages, which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness) likely to deter the consumer from using this composition.
[0025] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "emulsifying surfactant" means an amphiphilic surfactant compound, i.e. one having two parts of different polarity. In general, one is lipophilic (soluble or dispersible in an oily phase), the other is hydrophilic (soluble or dispersible in water). Emulsifying surfactants are characterized by the value of their HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance), the HLB being the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in the molecule. The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and is described for example in The HLB System. A time-saving guide to Emulsifier Selection (published by ICI Americas Inc; 1984). For emulsifying surfactants, the HLB generally ranges from 3 to 8 for the preparation of W / O emulsions. The HLB of the surfactant(s) used according to the invention can be determined by the GRIFFIN method or the DA VIES method.
[0026] By water-in-oil emulsion is meant a composition comprising an immiscible oily phase and an aqueous phase; the aqueous phase being dispersed in the form of droplets in the oily phase (called continuous) so as to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous composition.
[0027] By oil is meant a fatty organic body which is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg or 105 Pa).
[0028] By non-volatile oil is meant an oil remaining on the keratin material at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) for at least several hours and in particular having a vapor pressure of less than 10-3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).
[0029] By "water-soluble organic UV filter" is meant any organic compound filtering UV radiation in the wavelength range 280 to 400 nm capable of being completely dissolved in the molecular or miscible state in a liquid aqueous phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in semi-cellular form) in a liquid aqueous phase.
[0030] By composition not containing non-volatile ester oil is meant any composition comprising less than 2.0% by weight of non-volatile ester oil, or even less than 1.0% by weight, or even less than 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition or even free of non-volatile ester oil.
[0031] By “composition not containing a water-soluble organic UV filter comprising at least one benzylidene camphorsulfonic acid group or water-soluble organic UV filter comprising at least one benzoxazole sulfonic acid group, any composition comprising less than 2.0% by weight of said organic UV filter(s), or even less than 1.0% by weight, or even less than 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition or even free of said organic UV filter(s).
[0032] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention does not comprise non-volatile ester oil.
[0033] By non-volatile ester oil is meant any non-volatile oil consisting of a single ester compound or a mixture of ester compounds. Said ester oil or mixture of ester oils is in particular consisting of one or more mono-, di-, triester(s) of a carboxylic acid having from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and of a mono-alcohol or of a polyol such as a glycol, in particular an alkylene glycol, for example the mixtures of esters with the INCI name: Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate and Butylene Glycol Di-caprylate / Dicaprate
[0034] By composition not containing non-volatile ester oil is meant any composition comprising less than 2.0% by weight of non-volatile ester oil, or even less than 1.0% by weight, or even less than 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition or even free of non-volatile ester oil. Continuous oil phase
[0035] The composition of the invention comprises a continuous oily phase comprising at least one volatile oil chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile silicone oils and their mixtures.
[0036] Said phase is liquid (in the absence of structuring agent) at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). It is organic, namely comprising at least carbon and hydrogen atoms and immiscible in water.
[0037] The oily phase comprises at least one volatile oil and optionally ingredients soluble or miscible in said phase.
[0038] By oil is meant a fatty substance which is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760mm Hg or 105 Pa).
[0039] The total concentration in oily phase of the composition of the invention preferably varies from 20 to 95% by weight, and more particularly ranging from 30 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Volatile oils
[0040] For the purposes of the invention, the term “volatile oil” means any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature (25°C). and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (103 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1,300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).
[0041] The volatile oil or oils is (are) preferably present from 5 to 45% by weight, more preferably ranging from 10 to 40% by weight and even more preferably ranging from 12 to 35% relative to the total weight of the composition, a) Volatile hydrocarbon oils
[0042] By "hydrocarbon oil" is meant an oil comprising mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether, carboxylic functions.
[0043] As an example of a volatile hydrocarbon oil that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars® or Permethyls®, branched C8-C16 esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Soit® by the company SHELL, may also be used; volatile linear alkanes such as those described in Cognis company patent application DE10 2008 012 457.
[0044] Isododecane will be used more particularly. b) Volatile silicone oils
[0045] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group, and more particularly an organopolysiloxane.
[0046] Among the volatile silicone oils that can be used in the compositions, mention may be made, for example, of volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, those having a viscosity <8 mm2 / s (8 centistokes), and having in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
[0047] Among these oils, linear volatile silicone oils with a viscosity ranging from 1 to 8 mm2 / s (1 to 8 centistokes) will be used more preferably, such as - octamethyltrisiloxane, notably sold under the name XIAMETER PMX-200 SILICONE FLUID ICS® by DOW CORNING; - decamethyltetrasiloxane, notably sold under the name XIAMETER PMX-200 SILICONE FLUID 1.5CS® by the company DOW CORNING; - dodecamethylpentasiloxane such as the commercial products sold under the names KF-96L-2CS®, DM-FLUID-2CS® by Shin Etsu; BERB-DM2® by BRB International or XIAMETER PMX-200 SILICONE FLUID 2CS® by DOW CORNING, - their mixtures.
[0048] Dodecamethylpentasiloxane will be used more particularly.
[0049] As cyclic volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and their mixtures.
[0050] According to a particular form of the invention, a mixture of at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil and at least one volatile silicone oil will be used, and more particularly a mixture of isododecane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane. Aqueous phase
[0051] The aqueous phase comprises water and optionally water-soluble or water-miscible ingredients such as water-soluble solvents.
[0052] A water suitable for the invention may be a floral water such as cornflower water and / or a mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or a thermal water.
[0053] In the present invention, the term water-soluble solvent denotes a compound which is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).
[0054] The water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition of the invention can also be volatile.
[0055] Among the water-soluble solvents which may be used in the composition in accordance with the invention, mention may in particular be made of lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, propanediol, pentylene glycol, glycerin and dipropylene glycol, C3-C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes.
[0056] The amount of water is at least 20% by weight, and preferably varies from 20 to 60% by weight, more particularly from 20 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. Hydrophobic film-forming polymer
[0057] By polymer, we mean in the sense of the invention a compound corresponding to the repetition of one or more units (these units being derived from compounds called monomers). This or these units are repeated at least twice and preferably at least 3 times.
[0058] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrophobic film-forming polymer" is intended to denote a film-forming polymer lacking an affinity for water and as such not suitable for formulation in the solute state in an aqueous medium. In particular, the term "hydrophobic polymer" is intended to mean a polymer having a solubility in water at 25°C of less than 1% by weight.
[0059] By film-forming polymer is meant a polymer capable of forming, on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a macroscopically continuous film on a support, in particular on keratin materials, and preferably a cohesive film, and better still a film whose cohesion and mechanical properties are such that said film can be isolated and handled in isolation, for example when said film is produced by casting onto a non-stick surface such as a Teflon-coated or silicone-coated surface.
[0060] In particular, the hydrophobic film-forming polymer is a polymer chosen from the group comprising film-forming polymers soluble in an organic solvent medium, in particular liposoluble polymers; this means that the polymer is soluble or miscible in the organic medium and will form a single homogeneous phase when it is incorporated into the medium.
[0061] As hydrophobic film-forming polymer, mention may in particular be made of: - silicone resins; - ethylenic block copolymers; - vinyl polymers comprising at least one unit derived from carbosiloxane dendrimer; - silicone acrylate copolymers - their mixtures.
[0062] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises, from 0.5 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, more particularly from 2 to 7% by weight of active material of hydrophobic film-forming polymer(s), relative to the total weight of the composition. I Silicone resins
[0063] More generally, the term resin means a compound whose structure is three-dimensional. Silicone resins are also called silicone resins or siloxane resins. Thus, for the purposes of the present invention, a polydimethylsiloxane is not a silicone resin.
[0064] The nomenclature of silicone resins (also called siloxane resins or silicone resins) is known as MDTQ, the resin being described in terms of the different siloxane monomeric units it comprises, each of the letters MDTQ characterizing a type of unit.
[0065] The letter M represents the Monofunctional unit of formula RlR2R3SiOi / 2, the silicon atom being linked to a single oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this unit.
[0066] The letter D signifies a functional Di unit RIR2SiO2 / 2 in which the silicon atom is linked to two oxygen atoms.
[0067] The letter T represents a Trifunctional unit of formula RlSiO3 / 2.
[0068] Such resins are described for example in Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, vol. 15, John and Wiley and Sons, New York, (1989), pp. 265-270, and US 2,676,182, US 3,627,851, US 3,772,247, US 5,248,739 or US 5,082,706, US 5,319,040, US 5,302,685 and US 4,935,484.
[0069] In the M, D, T units defined above, R, namely RI and R2, represents a hydrocarbon radical (in particular alkyl) having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or even a hydroxyl group.
[0070] Finally, the letter Q signifies a tetrafunctional unit SiO4 / 2 in which the silicon atom is linked to four oxygen atoms themselves linked to the rest of the polymer.
[0071] Various silicone resins with different properties can be obtained from these different units, the properties of these polymers varying according to the type of monomers (or units), the nature and number of the radical R, the length of the polymer chain, the degree of branching and the size of the pendant chains.
[0072] As silicone resins which can be used in the compositions according to the invention, it is possible to use, for example, silicone resins of the MQ type, of the T type or of the MQT type. MQ Resins
[0073] As an example of silicone resins of MQ type, mention may be made of alkylsiloxy-silicates of formula [(Rl)3SiOi / 2]x(SiO4 / 2)y (MQ units) in which x and y are integers ranging from 50 to 80, and such that the group RI represents a radical as defined previously, and preferably is an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms or a hydroxyl group, preferably a methyl group.
[0074] As an example of solid silicone resins of the MQ type of trimethylsiloxy-silicate type, we can cite those marketed under the reference SR1000® by the company General Electric, under the reference TMS 803® by the company Wacker, under the name KF-7312®J by the company Shin-Etsu, DC 749®, DC 593® by the company Dow Corning.
[0075] As silicone resins comprising MQ siloxysilicate units, mention may also be made of phenylalkylsiloxysilicate resins, such as phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate (Silshine 151® marketed by the company General Electric). The preparation of such resins is described in particular in US patent 5,817,302. T resins
[0076] As an example of T-type silicone resins, mention may be made of polysilsesquioxanes of formula (RSiO3 / 2)x (T units) in which x is greater than 100 and such that the R group is an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, said polysilsesquioxanes being able to further comprise Si-OH terminal groups.
[0077] Preferably, polymethylsilsesquioxane resins in which R represents a methyl group can be used, such as, for example, those marketed: - by the company Wacker under the reference Resin MK® such as Belsil PMS MK®: polymer comprising repeating units CH3SiO3 / 2 (T units), which may also comprise up to 1% by weight of (CH3)2SiO2 / 2 units (D units) and having an average molecular weight of approximately 10,000 g / mol, or - by the company SHIN-ETSU under the references KR-220L® which are composed of T units of formula CH3SiO3 / 2 and have Si-OH (silanol) end groups, under the reference KR-242A® which comprise 98% of T units and 2% of dimethyl D units and have Si-OH end groups or under the reference KR-251® comprising 88% of T units and 12% of dimethyl D units and have Si-OH end groups. MQT resins
[0078] As a resin comprising MQT units, those cited in document US 5,110,890 are known in particular.
[0079] A preferred form of MQT type resins are MQT-propyl resins (also called MQTPr). Such resins which can be used in the compositions according to the invention are in particular those described and prepared in the application WO 2005 / 075542.
[0080] The MQ-T-propyl resin preferably comprises the units: (i) (Rl3SiO1 / 2)a ; (ii) (R22SiO2 / 2)b; (iii) (R3SiO3 / 2)c; and (iv) (SiO4 / 2)d with : - RI, R2 and R3 independently representing a hydrocarbon radical (in particular alkyl) having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or even a hydroxyl group and preferably an alkyl radical having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms or a phenyl group, - a being between 0.05 and 0.5,- b being between zero and 0.3,- c being greater than zero, - d being between 0.05 and 0.6, -a + b + c + d= 1, and a, b, c and d being mole fractions, provided that more than 40 mol% of the R3 groups of the siloxane resin are propyl groups.
[0081] Preferably, the siloxane resin comprises the units:
[0082] (i) ((Rl)3SiO1 / 2)a ; (iii) (R3SiO3 / 2)c; and (iv) (SiO4 / 2)d. with : - RI and R3 independently representing an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, RI preferably being a methyl group and R3 preferably being a propyl group, - a being between 0.05 and 0.5, preferably between 0.15 and 0.4, - c being greater than zero, preferably between 0.15 and 0.4, - d being between 0.05 and 0.6, preferably between 0.2 and 0.6, or between 0.2 and 0.55, -a + b + c + d = leta, b, cetd being molar fractions, provided that more than 40 mol% of the R3 groups of the siloxane resin are propyl groups.
[0083] The siloxane resins which can be used according to the invention can be obtained by a process comprising the reaction of: A) an MQ resin comprising at least 80 mol% of ((Rl)3SiOi / 2)a and (SiO4 / 2)d units; with - RI representing an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group,
[0084] - a and d being greater than zero; - the a / d ratio being between 0.5 and 1.5; and of: B) a propyl resin T comprising at least 80 mol% of (R3SiO3 / 2)c units ; with - R3 representing an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group, - c being greater than zero, provided that at least 40 mol% of the R3 groups are propyl groups,
[0085] where the mass ratio A / B is between 95:5 and 15:85, preferably the mass ratio A / B is 30:70.
[0086] Advantageously, the mass ratio A / B is between 95:5 and 15:85. Preferably, the ratio A / B is less than or equal to 70:30. These preferred ratios have proven to allow comfortable deposits due to the absence of percolation of the rigid particles of MQ resin in the deposit.
[0087] Thus, preferably, the silicone resin is chosen from MQ type resins, in particular chosen from (i) alkylsiloxysilicates, which may be trimethylsiloxysilicates, of formula [(Rl)3SiOi / 2]x(SiO4 / 2)y, in which x and y are integers ranging from 50 to 80, and such that the group RI represents a hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or a hydroxyl group, and preferably is an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl group, and (ii) phenylalkylsiloxysilicate resins, such as phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate resin.
[0088] Advantageously, a composition according to the invention comprises, as hydrophobic film-forming polymer, at least one trimethylsiloxysilicate resin such as those marketed under the reference SILSOFT 74 by the company MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS, SR1000® by the company General Electric, under the reference TMS 803® by the company Wacker, under the name KF-7312®J by the company Shin-Etsu, DC 749®, DC 593® by the company Dow Corning. Silsesquioxane resins
[0089] Among the silsesquioxane resins which can be used in the compositions in accordance with the invention, mention may be made of alkyl silsesquioxane resins which are homopolymers and / or copolymers of silsesquioxane having a siloxane average unit of formula RI nSiO(4_n) / 2, where each RI independently denotes a hydrogen atom or a C1-C10 alkyl group where more than 80 mol% of the RI radicals represent a C3-C10 alkyl group, n is a number from 1.0 to 1.4, and more particularly, a silsesquioxane copolymer will be used in which more than 60 mol% comprises RISiO 3 / 2 units in which RI has the definition indicated above.
[0090] Preferably, the silsesquioxane resin is chosen such that RI is a C1-C10 alkyl group, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group, and more particularly a propyl group. More particularly, a polypropylsilsesquioxane or T-propyl silsesquioxane resin (INCI name: POLYPROPYLSIL-SESQUIOXANE (and) ISODODECANE such as the product sold under the trade name Dow Corning® 670 Fluid by the company Dow-Coming will be used. II Ethylene block copolymers
[0091] The hydrophobic film-forming polymer may be a block ethylenic copolymer, containing at least one first block having a glass transition temperature (Tg) greater than or equal to 40°C and being derived in whole or in part from one or more first monomers, which are such that the homopolymer prepared from these monomers has a glass transition temperature greater than or equal to 40°C, and at least one second block having a glass transition temperature lower than or equal to 20°C and being derived in whole or in part from one or more second monomers, which are such that the homopolymer prepared from these monomers has a glass transition temperature less than or equal to 20°C, said first block and said second block being linked together by a random intermediate segment comprising at least one of said first monomers constituting the first block and at least one of said second monomers constituting the second block, and said block copolymer having a polydispersity index I greater than 2.
[0092] Polymers of this type suitable for the invention are described in document EP1411069.
[0093] As an example of such polymers, mention may be made more particularly of MEXOMERE PAS® (Acrylic Acid / Isobutyl Acrylate / Isobornyl Acrylate Copolymer diluted to 50% in isododecane) marketed by the company CHIMEX.
[0094] The block ethylenic copolymer may in particular be a diblock, triblock, multiblock, radial, star copolymer, or mixtures thereof as described in application US-A-2002 / 005562 and in patent US-A-5,221,534.
[0095] The copolymer may have at least one block whose glass transition temperature is preferably less than 20°C, preferably less than or equal to 0°C, preferably less than or equal to -20°C, more preferably less than or equal to -40°C. The glass transition temperature of said block may be between -150°C and 20°C, in particular between -100°C and 0°C. The copolymer is amorphous and formed by polymerization of an olefin. The olefin may in particular be an elastomeric ethylenically unsaturated monomer.
[0096] As an example of olefin, mention may be made of ethylenic carbide monomers, having in particular one or two ethylenic unsaturations, having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethylene, propylene, butadiene, isoprene, or pentadiene.
[0097] Advantageously, the hydrocarbon block copolymer is an amorphous block copolymer of styrene and olefin.
[0098] Particularly preferred are block copolymers comprising at least one styrene block and at least one block comprising units chosen from butadiene, ethylene, propylene, butylene, isoprene or one of their mixtures.
[0099] According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrocarbon block copolymer is hydrogenated to reduce the residual ethylenic unsaturations after the polymerization of the monomers.
[0100] In particular, the hydrocarbon block copolymer is a copolymer, optionally hydrogenated, with styrene blocks and C3-C4 ethylene / alkylene blocks.
[0101] As diblock copolymer, preferably hydrogenated, mention may be made of styrene-ethylene / propylene copolymers, styrene-ethylene / butadiene copolymers, co styrene-ethylene / butylene polymers. Diblock polymers are notably sold under the name Kraton® G1701E by the company Kraton Polymers.
[0102] As triblock copolymer, preferably hydrogenated, mention may be made of styrene-ethylene / propylene-styrene copolymers, styrene-ethylene / butadiene-styrene copolymers, styrene-ethylene / butylene-styrene copolymers, styrene-isoprene-styrene copolymers, styrene-butadiene-styrene copolymers. Triblock polymers are sold in particular under the names Kraton® G1650, Kraton® G1652, Kraton® DI 101, Kraton® DI 102, Kraton® DI 160 by the company Kraton Polymers.
[0103] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the hydrocarbon block copolymer is a styrene-ethylene / butylene-styrene triblock copolymer.
[0104] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, it is possible in particular to use a mixture of a styrene-butylene / ethylene-styrene triblock copolymer and a styrene-ethylene / butylene diblock copolymer, in particular those sold under the name Kraton® G1657M by the company Kraton Polymers.
[0105] It is also possible to use a mixture of hydrogenated styrene-butylene / ethylene-styrene triblock copolymer and hydrogenated ethylene-propylene-styrene star polymer, such a mixture being in particular in isododecane. Such mixtures are for example sold by the company PENRECO under the trade names VERSAGEL® M5960 and VERSAGEL® M5670.
[0106] III Vinyl polymer comprising at least one unit derived from carbosiloxane dendrimer
[0107] The hydrophobic film-forming polymer may also be chosen from vinyl polymers comprising at least one unit derived from carbosiloxane dendrimer.
[0108] The vinyl polymer(s) in particular have a backbone and at least one side chain, which comprises a carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived unit having a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure.
[0109] In particular, vinyl polymers comprising at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer unit may be used as described in applications WO03 / 045337 and EP963751 from Dow Corning.
[0110] The term carbosiloxane dendrimer structure in the context of the present invention represents a molecular structure having branched groups having high molecular weights, said structure having high regularity in the radial direction starting from the bond to the backbone. Such carbosiloxane dendrimer structures are described as a highly branched siloxane-silylalkylene copolymer in Japanese patent application Kokai Laid-Open No. 9-171 154. A vinyl polymer having at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived unit has a side molecular chain containing a carbo-siloxane dendrimer structure, and can be derived from the polymerization of: - from 0 to 99.9 parts by weight of a vinyl monomer; and - from 100 to 0.1 parts by weight of a carbosiloxane dendrimer containing an organic group polymerizable using radicals, represented by the general formula: [Chem 1] lr? n ■ < । V "SiX! | I....... L j * in which Y represents an organic group polymerizable by means of radicals, R1 represents an aryl group or an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and X' represents a silylalkyl group which, when i = 1, is represented by the following formula: [Chem 2] wherein R1 is as defined above, R2 represents an alkylene group having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, R3 represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, Xi+1 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, an aryl group, or the silylalkyl group defined above with i = i + 1; i is an integer from 1 to 10 which represents the generation of said silylalkyl group, and ai is an integer from 0 to 3; where said radical-polymerizable organic group contained in component (A) is chosen from: organic groups containing a methacrylic group or an acrylic group and which are represented by the following formulas: [Chem 3] CC Q CH; - C........C —O-------R5— [YES] and [Chem 4] y CHs ~ C..........C—NK - R5— in which R4 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group,
[0112] R5 represents an alkylene group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and organic groups containing a styryl group and which are represented by the following formula: [Chem 5] wherein R6 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group, R7 represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, R8 represents an alkylene group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, b is an integer from 0 to 4, and c is 0 or 1, such that if c is 0,
[0113] -(R8)c- represents a bond.
[0114] The vinyl-type monomer which is component (A) in the vinyl polymer is a vinyl-type monomer which contains a radical-polymerizable vinyl group.
[0115] There is no particular limitation with respect to such a monomer.
[0116] The following are examples of this vinyl-type monomer: vinyl methacrylate methyl, ethyl methacrylate, n-propyl methacrylate, isopropyl methacrylate, or a lower alkyl methacrylate analog; glycidyl methacrylate; butyl methacrylate, butyl acrylate, n-butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, tert-butyl acrylate, tert-butyl methacrylate, n-hexyl methacrylate, cyclohexyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, octyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl acrylate, stearyl methacrylate, or a higher methacrylate analog; vinyl acetate, vinyl propionate, or a lower fatty acid vinyl ester analog; vinyl caproate, vinyl 2-ethylhexoate, vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate, or a higher analogous fatty acid ester;styrene, vinyl toluene, benzyl methacrylate, phenoxyethyl methacrylate, vinyl pyrrolidone, or analogous aromatic vinyl monomers; methacrylamide, N-methylolmethacrylamide, N-methoxymethylmethacrylamide, isobutoxymethoxymethacrylamide, N,N-dimethylmethacrylamide, or analogous vinyl monomers that contain amide groups; hydroxyethyl methacrylate, hydroxypropyl alcohol methacrylate, or; vinyl-like monomers that contain hydroxyl groups; acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid, crotonic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, or vinyl-like monomers that contain a carboxylic acid group; tetrahydrofurfuryl methacrylate, butoxyethyl methacrylate, ethoxydiethylene glycol methacrylate, polyethylene glycol methacrylate, polypropylene glycol monomethacrylate, hydroxybutyl vinyl ether, cetyl vinyl ether, 2-ethylhexyl vinyl ether, or a vinyl-like monomer with ether linkages; methacryloxypropyltrimethoxysilane, polydimethylsiloxane having a methacrylic group on one of its molecular ends, polydimethylsiloxane having a styryl group on one of its molecular ends, or a silicone analogous compound having unsaturated groups; butadiene; vinyl chloride;vinylidene chloride; methacrylonitrile; dibutyl fumarate; anhydrous maleic acid; anhydrous succinic acid; methacryl glycidyl ether; an organic salt of an amine, an ammonium salt, and an alkali metal salt of methacrylic acid, itaconic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, or fumaric acid; a radically polymerizable unsaturated monomer having a sulfonic acid group such as a styrene sulfonic acid group; a quaternary ammonium salt derived from methacrylic acid such as 2-hydroxy-3-methacryloxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride; and a methacrylic acid ester of an alcohol having a tertiary amine group such as a methacrylic acid ester of diethylamine. ;
[0117] Multifunctional vinyl-type monomers can also be used.
[0118] The following are examples of such compounds: trimethylolpropane trimethacrylate, pentaerythritol trimethacrylate, ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, tetraethylene glycol dimethacrylate, polyethylene glycol dimethacrylate, 1,4-butanediol dimethacrylate, 1,6-hexanediol dimethacrylate, neopentyl glycol dimethacrylate, trimethylolpropanetrioxyethylmethacrylate, tris-(2-hydroxyethyl)isocyanurate dimethacrylate, tris-(2-hydroxyethyl)isocyanurate trimethacrylate, styryl-capped polydimethylsiloxane having divinylbenzene groups on both ends, or analogous silicone compounds having unsaturated groups.
[0119] To facilitate the preparation of the mixture of the raw material of cosmetic products, the number average molecular weight of the vinyl polymer which contains a carbosiloxane dendrimer, can be chosen in the range between 3,000 g / mol and 2,000,000 g / mol, preferably between 5,000 g / mol and 800,000 g / mol. It can be a liquid, a gum, a paste, a solid, a powder, or any other form. Preferred forms are solutions formed by dilution in solvents such as a silicone oil or organic oil, dispersion, or powder.
[0120] A vinyl polymer contained in the dispersion or solution may have a concentration in a range of 0.1 to 95% by weight, preferably 5 to 70% by weight. However, for ease of handling and mixture preparation, the range should preferably be 10 to 60% by weight.
[0121] According to a preferred embodiment, a vinyl polymer suitable for the invention may be one of the polymers described in the examples of application EP0963751.
[0122] According to a preferred embodiment, a vinyl polymer grafted with a carbosiloxane dendrimer can be obtained from the polymerization: - from 0.1 to 99 parts by weight of one or more acrylate or methacrylate monomer(s); and - from 100 to 0.1 parts by weight of an acrylate or methacrylate monomer of a tri[tri(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl dimethylsiloxy]silylpropyl carbosiloxane dendrimer.
[0123] According to one embodiment, a vinyl polymer having at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived unit may comprise a tri[tri(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl dimethylsiloxy]silylpropyl carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived unit corresponding to one of the formulas [Chem 6] [Chem 7] r œ, / 1 He II / O l CHj \ Œ5 J 3
[0124] According to a preferred embodiment, a vinyl polymer having at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived unit used in the invention comprises at least one butyl acrylate monomer.
[0125] According to one embodiment, a vinyl polymer may further comprise at least one fluorinated organic group. A fluorinated vinyl polymer may be one of the polymers described in the examples of application WO 03 / 045337.
[0126] According to a preferred embodiment, a grafted vinyl polymer within the meaning of the present invention may be carried in an oil or a mixture of oil(s), preferably volatile oil(s) in particular, chosen from silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils and their mixtures.
[0127] According to a particular embodiment, a silicone oil suitable for the invention may be cyclopentasiloxane.
[0128] According to another particular embodiment, a hydrocarbon oil suitable for the invention may be isododecane.
[0129] The vinyl polymers grafted with at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived unit which may be particularly suitable for the present invention are the polymers sold under the names TIB 4-100®, TIB 4-101®, TIB 4-120®, TIB 4-130®, TIB 4-200®, FA 4002 ID® (TIB 4-202®), TIB 4-220®, FA 4001 CM® (TIB 4-230®) by the company Dow Corning. Preferably, the polymers sold under the names FA 4002 ID® (TIB 4-202), and FA 4001 CM® (TIB 4-230®) by the company Dow Corning will be used.
[0130] Preferably, the vinyl polymer grafted with at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived unit usable in a composition of the invention is an acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer with the INCI name: ACRYLATES / POLYTRIMETHYL SILOXYMETHACRYLATE COPOLYMER, in particular that marketed in isododecane under the name Dow Corning FA 4002 ID® silicone acrylate by the company Dow Corning. IV. Silicone acrylate copolymers
[0131] According to a particular embodiment, a composition used according to the invention may comprise, as hydrophobic film-forming polymer, at least one copolymer comprising carboxylate groups and polydimethylsiloxane groups.
[0132] By copolymer comprising carboxylate groups and polydimethylsiloxane groups is meant in the present application, a copolymer obtained from (a) one or more carboxylic monomers (acid or ester), and (b) one or more polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) chains.
[0133] In the present application, the term "carboxylic monomer" means both carboxylic acid monomers and carboxylic acid ester monomers. Thus, the monomer (a) may be chosen, for example, from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, itaconic acid, crotonic acid, their esters and mixtures of these monomers.
[0134] As esters, the following monomers may be mentioned: acrylate, methacrylate, maleate, fumarate, itaconoate and / or crotonoate. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the monomers in the form of esters are more particularly chosen from linear or branched alkyl acrylates and methacrylates, preferably C1-C24 and better still C1-C22, the alkyl radical being preferentially chosen from methyl, ethyl, stearyl, butyl, ethyl-2-hexyl radicals, and mixtures thereof.
[0135] Thus, according to a particular embodiment of the invention, the copolymer comprises as carboxylate groups, at least one group chosen from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, methyl, ethyl, stearyl, butyl, 2-ethylhexyl acrylates or methacrylates, and mixtures thereof.
[0136] In the present application, the term polydimethylsiloxanes (also called organopolysiloxanes or, in abbreviation, PDMS), in accordance with general acceptance, is intended to denote any organosilicon polymer or oligomer with a linear structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and consisting essentially of a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are linked together by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond ASi-O-SL), comprising methyl radicals directly linked via a carbon atom to said silicon atoms.The PDMS chains that can be used to obtain the copolymer used according to the invention comprise at least one polymerizable radical group, preferably located on at least one of the ends of the chain, that is to say that the PDMS can have for example a polymerizable radical group on both ends of the chain or have a polymerizable radical group on one end of the chain and a trimethylsilyl terminal group on the other end of the chain. The polymerizable radical group can be in particular an acrylic or methacrylic group, in particular a group. CH2= CRI - CO - O - R2, where RI represents a hydrogen or a methyl group, and R2 represents -CH2-, -(CH2)n- with n = 3, 5, 8 or 10, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2-; -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2-, -CH2-CH2-O-CH2, -CH2-O-CH2-CH2-CH2-.
[0137] The copolymers used in the composition of the invention are generally obtained according to the usual polymerization and grafting methods, for example by radical polymerization (A) of a PDMS comprising at least one polymerizable radical group (for example on one of the ends of the chain or on both) and (B) of at least one carboxylic monomer, as described for example in documents US-A-5,061,481 and US-A-5,219,560.
[0138] The copolymers obtained generally have a molecular weight ranging from approximately 3,000 g / mol to 200,000 g / mol and preferably from approximately 5,000 g / mol to 100,000 g / mol.
[0139] The copolymer used in the composition of the invention may be present as such or in dispersed form in a solvent such as lower alcohols containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as isopropyl alcohol, or oils such as volatile silicone oils (for example cyclopentasiloxane).
[0140] As copolymers which can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of copolymers of acrylic acid and stearyl acrylate with polydimethylsiloxane grafts, copolymers of stearyl methacrylate with polydimethylsiloxane grafts, copolymers of acrylic acid and stearyl methacrylate with polydimethylsiloxane grafts polydimethylsiloxane, copolymers of methyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate and stearyl methacrylate with polydimethylsiloxane grafts. Mention may in particular be made, as copolymers which can be used in the composition of the invention, of the copolymers marketed by the company SHIN-ETSU under the names KP-561® (CTFA name: ACRYLATES / DIMETHICONE), KP-541® where the copolymer is dispersed at 60% by weight in isopropyl alcohol (CTFA name: ACRYLATES / DIMETHICONE AND ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL), KP-545® where the copolymer is dispersed at 30% in cyclopentasiloxane (CTFA name: ACRYLATES / DIMETHICONE AND CYCLOPENTASILOXANE).
[0141] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, KP561® is preferably used; this copolymer is not dispersed in a solvent, but is in waxy form, its melting point being approximately 30°C.
[0142] Mention may also be made of the polydimethylsiloxane grafted acrylic acid copolymer dissolved in isododecane marketed by the company Shin Etsu under the name KP-550®.
[0143] According to a particularly preferred form, a composition according to the invention comprises, as hydrophobic film-forming polymer, at least one trimethylsiloxysilicate resin such as those marketed under the reference SR1000® by the company General Electric, under the reference TMS 803® by the company Wacker, under the name KF-7312®J by the company Shin-Etsu, DC 749®, DC 593® by the company Dow Corning.
[0144] Advantageously, a composition according to the invention comprises, as hydrophobic film-forming polymer, at least one trimethylsiloxysilicate resin such as those marketed under the reference SR1000® by the company General Electric, under the reference TMS 803® by the company Wacker, under the name KF-7312®J by the company Shin-Etsu, DC 749®, DC 593® by the company Dow Corning.
[0145] Linear polyoxyalkylenated polydimethylmethylsiloxane emulsifying surfactant
[0146] The composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion in accordance with the invention comprises at least one linear polyoxyalkylenated polydimethylmethylsiloxane of HLB < 8, preferably linear polyoxypropylenated and / or polyoxyethylenated, in particular corresponding to the following formula (I): [Chem 8] ch3 ch3 ch ch3 R.—SiO---TsiÔl-----pSiOl-----Si---R,. X, L| ■A “D i CH3 CH3 R2 (I) in which: Rb R2, R3, independently of each other, represent a radical C1-C6 alkyl or a radical -(CH2)x-(OCH2CH2)y-(OCH2CH2CH2)z-OR4, at least one radical R2 or R3 not being an alkyl radical; R4 being a hydrogen, a C1-C3 alkyl radical or a C2-C4 acyl radical; A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200; B is an integer from 0 to 50; provided that A and B are not equal to zero at the same time; x is an integer ranging from 0 to 6; y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30; z is an integer ranging from 0 to 30.
[0147] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, in the compound of formula (I), Ri = R3 = methyl radical, x = 0 to 3, R4 is hydrogen.
[0148] As examples of compounds of formula (I), the following emulsifying surfactants with INCI names may be mentioned: - PEG / PPG-8 / 8 DIMETHICONE such as the products sold under the trade names SILUBE J208-4I®, SILUBE J208-6I®, SILUBE J208-8I® by the company; - PEG / PPG-18 / 18 DIMETHICONE used alone such as products sold under the trade names ANDISIL SP 1818® by AB Specialty Silicones, JEESILC DMC 19® by Jeen International Corporation; SILSURF J-1013-V-CG® by Siltech LLC; XIAMETER OFX-0190 FLUID® by Dow Chemical Company; - the mixture CYCLOPENTASILOXANE (and) PEG / PPG-18 / 18 DIMETHICONE such as the products sold under the trade names DOWSIL 5225C FORMULATION AID® by Dow Chemical Company); EMUSIL WO-5115® by Innospec Performance Chemicals Company; GRANSURF 10C® by Grant Industries, Inc.; JEESILC DMC522® by Jeen International Corporation; SILSURF 400R® by Siltech LLC; - the mixture CYCLOTETRASILOXANE (and) CYCLOPENTASILOXANE (and) PEG / PPG-18 / 18 DIMETHICONE such as the commercial products sold under the name DOWSIL 3225C FORMULATION AID® by Dow Chemical; EMULSIL WO-3115® by Innospec Performance Chemicals; JEESILC DMC252® and JEESILC DMC322® by Jeen International Corporation; - the DIMETHICONE (and) PEG / PPG-18 / 18 DIMETHICONE mixture such as the commercial products DOWSIL ES-5226 DM FORMULATION AID® and DOWSIL ES-5227 DM FORMULATIONS AID® from Dow Chemical; GRANSURF 50C® and GRANSURF 50C-HM® from Grant Industries, Inc. and X-22-6711D from SHIN ETSU. - the mixture PEG / PPG-19 / 19 DIMETHICONE (and) C13-C16 ISOPARAFFIN (and) C10-C13 ISOPARAFFIN such as the commercial product DOW CORNING® BY 25-337 from Dow Chemical; ; - PEG-3 DIMETHICONE such as the commercial product KF-6015® from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.; - PEG-10 DIMETHICONE such as commercial products KF-6017® from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co Ltd.; SERASOL SC 86® and SERASOL SC 86A® from KCC Corporation); - their mixtures.
[0149] According to a particular form of the invention, the composition of the invention comprises at least PEG / PPG-18 / 18 DIMETHICONE, preferably in association with a silicone oil, in particular a linear silicone oil of the dimethicone type (INCI name: DIMETHICONE (and) PEG / PPG-18 / 18 DIMETHICONE) such as the commercial products DOWSIL ES-5226 DM FORMULATION AID® and DOWSIL ES-5227 DM FORMULATIONS AID® from Dow Chemical; GRANSURF 50C® and GRANSURF 50C-HM® from Grant Industries, Inc. and X-22-6711D from SHIN ETSU.
[0150] According to another particular form, the composition of the invention comprises at least one mixture of PEG / PPG-18 / 18 DIMETHICONE and PEG-10 DIMETHICONE, preferably a mixture of PEG / PPG-18 / 18 DIMETHICONE, DIMETHICONE and PEG-10 DIMETHICONE.
[0151] The linear polyoxyalkylenated polydimethylmethylsiloxane(s) in accordance with the invention are preferably present in the composition of the invention at concentrations ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.5 to 7% by weight and even more preferably from 1 to 4% relative to the total weight of the composition. Vitamin B3, derivatives and salts
[0152] Vitamin B3 means any molecule having the general formula:
[0153] [Chem.9] zR in which R is -CONH2 (i.e., niacinamide, isoniacinamide), -COOH (i.e.: nicotinic acid) or -CH2OH (i.e.: nicotinyl alcohol) as well as its organic or inorganic acid derivatives and salts or its inorganic or organic base salts such as those mentioned above.
[0154] Examples of vitamin B3 derivatives include: - nicotinic acid esters such as those with the following INCI names: Niacinamide Ascorbate Niacinamide Glycolate, Niacinamide Hydroxybenzoate, Niacinamide Hy-droxycitrate, Niacinamide Lactate, Niacinamide Malate, Niacinamide Mandalate, Niacinamide Salicylate, Niacinamide Thioctate supplied by Bioderma Tech. Co LTD; - quaternary ammonium salts such as Methyl Niacinamide Chloride (INCI name) such as the commercial product MNA Chloride® from Pharmena; - reaction products of niacinamide with polypeptides such as those from yeast: INCI name Niacinamide / Yeast Polypeptide such as the commercial product sold under the trade name Vitazyme B3® by Arch Personal Care Products, LP / Lonza Personal Care.
[0155] Niacinamide will be used more particularly as the commercial products sold under the name Niacinamide PC® (DSM Nutritional Products, Inc.) OriStar NA® (Orient Stars LLC) RonaCare Nicotinamide® (Merck KGaA / EMD Chemicals) RonaCare Nicotinamide ® (EMD Chemicals)
[0156] Vitamin B3 and / or one of its derivatives are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention, in concentrations of active material ranging from 3 to 20% by weight, better still from 5 to 15% by weight, even more preferably from 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Powdered coloring matter
[0157] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition additionally comprises at least one pulverulent coloring material.
[0158] The powdery coloring materials can be chosen from coloring pigments, pearlescent agents, optical effect pigments and their mixtures.
[0159] The term “pigments” means white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous medium, intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the resulting deposit.
[0160] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.
[0161] By "mineral pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the inorganic pigment chapter. Among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti 2O3, TiO, ZrO2 in mixture with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, ZnS.
[0162] The size of the pigment useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and can range up to 10 qm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 qm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 qm.
[0163] According to a particular form of the invention, the pigments have a size ca characterized by a D
[50] greater than 100 nm and up to 10 qm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 qm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 pm.
[0164] The sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial granulometer of the MasterSizer 3000® type from Malvem, making it possible to understand the particle size distribution of all the particles over a wide range from 0.01 pm to 1000 pm. The data are processed on the basis of the classical Mie scattering theory. This theory is the most suitable for size distributions ranging from submicron to multi-micron, it makes it possible to determine an “effective” particle diameter. This theory is notably described in the work of Van de Hulst, HC, “Light Scattering by Small Particles”, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
[0165] D
[50] represents the maximum size that 50% by volume of the particles has.
[0166] In the context of the present invention, the mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxides, titanium dioxides, and mixtures thereof. By way of example, mention may be made more particularly of titanium dioxides and iron oxides, coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, for example marketed under the reference NAI® by the company MIYOSHI KASEI.
[0167] As mineral pigments which can be used in the invention, mention may also be made of nacres.
[0168] By “mother-of-pearl” is meant colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular, produced by certain molluscs in their shell or synthesized and which present a color effect by optical interference.
[0169] The nacres may be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic coloring materials.
[0170] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.
[0171] Examples of mother-of-pearls that may also be mentioned include natural mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride.
[0172] The mother-of-pearls can more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery color or reflection.
[0173] Among the pigments which can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of those with an optical effect different from a simple conventional tint effect, i.e. unified and stabilized as produced by conventional coloring materials, such as, for example, monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of the invention, “stabilized” means devoid of any effect of color variability with the angle of observation or in response to a change in temperature.
[0174] For example, this material may be chosen from metallic sheen particles, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffracting pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brightening agents, as well as fibers, in particular interference fibers. Of course, these different materials may be combined so as to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even a new effect in accordance with the invention.
[0175] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one uncoated pigment.
[0176] According to another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound.
[0177] This type of pigment is particularly advantageous. To the extent that they are treated with a hydrophobic compound, they exhibit a predominant affinity for an oily phase which can then carry them.
[0178] The coating may also comprise at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.
[0179] For the purposes of the invention, “coating” a pigment according to the invention generally designates the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surface agent, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment.
[0180] The surface-treated pigments may be prepared according to surface treatment techniques of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical or mechanical nature well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products may also be used.
[0181] The surfactant can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond.
[0182] According to one variant, the surface treatment consists of a coating of the pigments.
[0183] The coating may represent from 0.1 to 20% by weight, and in particular 0.5 to 5% by weight of the total weight of the coated pigment.
[0184] The coating can be carried out for example by adsorption of a liquid surface agent on the surface of the solid particles by simple mixing with stirring of the particles and said surface agent, optionally hot, prior to the incorporation of the particles into the other ingredients of the makeup or care composition.
[0185] The coating can be carried out for example by chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the solid pigment particles and creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the particles. This method is notably described in US patent 4,578,266.
[0186] The chemical surface treatment may consist of diluting the surfactant in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture, then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent, so that the surfactant is deposited on the surface of the pigments.
[0187] When the pigment comprises a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, the latter is preferably present in the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention.
[0188] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments may be coated according to the invention with at least one compound chosen from silicone surfactants; fluorinated surfactants; fluoro-silicone surfactants; metallic soaps; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural plant or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.
[0189] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments can be coated with a hydrophilic compound.
[0190] According to a particular embodiment, the coloring matter is an organic, synthetic, natural or naturally occurring pigment.
[0191] By "organic pigment" is meant any pigment which meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the organic pigment chapter. The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone compounds.
[0192] The organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole derivatives,phenolics as described in patent FR 2 679 771.,
[0193] The pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least by comprising an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the fixation of the organic pigments on the core.
[0194] The pigment may also be a lake. By lake is meant insolubilized dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
[0195] The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.
[0196] Among the organic dyes, we can cite cochineal carmine. Other products known under the following names include: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).
[0197] Examples of lacquers include the product known under the name D&C Red 7 (CI 15850:1).
[0198] Preferably, the pulverulent coloring material(s) is / are present, preferably, in the composition in a content ranging from 1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 5 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0199] Organopolysiloxane elastomer carried in a non-volatile oil.
[0200] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer (also called silicone elastomer) carried in at least one silicone or hydrocarbon oil as described previously.
[0201] For the purposes of the invention, the term "conveyed" means that the elastomer is provided in the composition in a pre-dispersed form in at least one silicone or hydrocarbon oil. More particularly, the elastomer is in the form of a homogeneous mixture of elastomer particles dispersed in at least one silicone or hydrocarbon oil, stable for at least 24 hours at 20°C.
[0202] Preferably, this elastomer is in the form of a gel in at least one silicone or hydrocarbon oil.
[0203] By "organopolysiloxane elastomer" or "silicone elastomer" is meant a flexible, deformable organopolysiloxane, having viscoelastic properties and in particular the consistency of a sponge or a flexible sphere. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material resists deformation and has a limited capacity for extension and contraction. This material is capable of returning to its original shape following stretching.
[0204] It is more particularly a crosslinked silicone elastomer. In these gels, the organopolysiloxane particles may be spherical or non-spherical particles.
[0205] But preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer used in the composition according to the invention is carried in at least one silicone oil chosen in particular from non-phenylated silicone oils, phenylated silicone oils having or not having a dimethicone fragment, or mixtures thereof.
[0206] More advantageously, the silicone oil(s) are chosen from non-phenylated silicone oils, in particular from oils bearing the INCI name “dimethicone”.
[0207] The elastomer present in the composition according to the invention is chosen from non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomers
[0208] The term “non-emulsifying” defines organopolysiloxane elastomers not containing a hydrophilic chain, and in particular not containing polyoxyalkylene units (in particular polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene), nor polyglyceryl units.
[0209] The organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by addition crosslinking reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and diorganopolysiloxane having ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, in particular in the presence of a platinum catalyst; or by condensation crosslinking dehydrogenation reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane with hydroxyl terminations and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon, in particular in the presence of an organotin; or by condensation crosslinking reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane with hydroxyl terminations and a hydrolyzable organopolysiloxane; or by thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane, in particular in the presence of an organoperoxide catalyst; or by crosslinking of organopolysiloxane by high-energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays, electron beam.
[0210] Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B) of diorganopolysiloxane having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to the silicon, in particular in the presence (C) of platinum catalyst. In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations and methylhydrogenpolysiloxane with trimethylsiloxy terminations, in the presence of platinum catalyst.
[0211] Compound (A) is the basic reagent for the formation of elastomeric organopolysiloxane and crosslinking is carried out by addition reaction of compound (A) with compound (B) in the presence of catalyst (C).
[0212] Compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane having at least two hydrogen atoms bonded to distinct silicon atoms in each molecule. Compound (A) may have any molecular structure, in particular a linear chain or branched chain structure or a cyclic structure.
[0213] Compound (A) may have a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1 to 50,000 mm2 / s (1 to 50,000 centistokes), in particular to be easily miscible with compound (B).
[0214] The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of compound (A) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group.
[0215] Compound (A) can thus be chosen from methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes with trimethylsiloxy endings, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogeno-siloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy endings, and cyclic dimethylsiloxa-nemethylhydrogeno-siloxane copolymers.
[0216] Compound (B) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two lower alkenyl groups (for example C2-C4); the lower alkenyl group may be chosen from vinyl, allyl, and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located in any position of the organopolysiloxane molecule but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule.
[0217] The organopolysiloxane (B) may have a branched chain, straight chain, cyclic or network structure but the straight chain structure is preferred. The compound (B) may have a viscosity ranging from liquid to gum state.
[0218] Preferably, compound (B) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25°C. In addition to the aforementioned alkenyl groups, other organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms in compound (B) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group.The organopolysiloxanes (B) may be chosen from methylvinylpolysiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxanes with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations, dimethyl-siloxane-methylphenylsiloxane copolymers with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations, dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations, dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers with tri-terminals. methylsiloxy, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane methylvinyl-siloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy ends, methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)polysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy ends, and dimethylsiloxane-methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)siloxane copolymers with dimethylvinylsiloxy ends. In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by reacting dimethylpolysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy ends and methylhydrogenpolysiloxane with trimethylsiloxy ends, in the presence of platinum catalyst.
[0219] According to another variant, the compound (B) may be an unsaturated hydrocarbon compound, having at least two lower alkenyl groups (for example C2-C4); the lower alkenyl group may be chosen from vinyl, allyl, and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located in any position of the molecule but are preferably located at the ends. By way of example, mention may be made of hexadiene, and in particular 1,5-hexadiene. Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of the compound (B) and the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms per molecule of the compound (A) is at least 5.
[0220] It is advantageous that the compound (A) is added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in the compound (A) and the total amount of all ethylenically unsaturated groups in the compound (B) is in the range of 1.5 / 1 to 20 / 1.
[0221] Compound (C) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is notably chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, black platinum, and supported platinum.
[0222] The catalyst (C) is preferably added from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, more preferably from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of compounds (A) and (B).
[0223] As non-emulsifying elastomers, it is possible, for example, to use those sold under the names “DC 9040®”, “DC 9041®”, “DC 9509®”, “DC 9505®” by the company Dow Corning.
[0224] It is also possible to use those sold under the names “KSG-6®”, “KSG15®”, “KSG-16®”, “KSG-18®”, “KSG-41®”, “KSG-42®”, “KSG-43®”, “KSG-44®”, “X-25-7034H®” by the company Shin Etsu; Gransil SR 5CYC gel®, Gransil SR DMF 10 gel®, Gransil SR DC556 gel® from the company Gransil RPS of Grant Industries; 1229-02-167®, 1229-02-168® and “SFE 839®”, GRANSIL DMG-6 (INCI name: DIMETHICONE (and) POLYSILICONE-11) from General Electric.
[0225] According to a particularly preferred form, an elastomer will be used of organopolysiloxane carried in a dimethicone with the INCI name: DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE / VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER such as the products sold under the trade names* KSG-6®”, KSG-16® “X-25-7034H®” by the company Shin Etsu.
[0226] The composition according to the invention may comprise such an organopolysiloxane elastomer, alone or as a mixture, in an active material content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 2% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.5 to 1.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additives
[0227] The compositions according to the invention may also comprise additives commonly used in care and / or makeup products such as moisturizing agents such as polyols such as glycerin, propanediol, pentylene glycol; fillers; water-soluble or fat-soluble coloring materials; thickening or gelling agents; preservatives, chelating agents, perfumes and mixtures thereof. Charges
[0228] The compositions in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one filler, of organic or mineral nature, making it possible, in particular, to give them additional properties of mattness, coverage, hold and / or improved stability.
[0229] By filler is meant colorless or white, solid particles of all shapes, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. Of mineral or organic nature, they make it possible to give body or rigidity to the composition and / or softness, and uniformity to the makeup.
[0230] The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be of lamellar, globular, spherical, fiber forms or any other intermediate form between these defined forms.
[0231] The fillers according to the invention may or may not be surface-coated, and, in particular, they may be surface-treated with silicones, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance promoting the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition.
[0232] Examples of mineral fillers include talc, mica, perlite, silica, hollow silica microspheres, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, glass or ceramic microcapsules, silica and titanium dioxide composites, such as the TSG® series marketed by Nippon Sheet Glass, and hydrophobic silica aerogels.
[0233] Examples of organic fillers include starch powders. (Aluminium Octenyl Succinate Starch - DRY FLO®), polyamide powders (Nylon® Orgasol from Atochem), polyethylene, polymethyl methacrylate, polytetrafluoroethylene powders (Teflon®), acrylic acid copolymers (Polytrap® from Dow Corning), lauroyl lysine, hollow polymeric microspheres such as polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile like Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), Hexamethylene Diisocyanate / Trimethylol Hexyllactone copolymer powder (Plastic Powder® from Toshiki), silicone resin microbeads (Tospearl® from Toshiba for example), synthetic or natural micronized waxes, metallic soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms carbon, for example, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, Polypore® L 200 (Chemdal Corporation),crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, in particular silsesquioxane resin, as described for example in patent US5538793. It may also be cellulose powder such as that marketed by Daito in the Cellulobeads® range. Silica particles
[0234] According to a preferred form, the composition according to the invention comprises, in addition to the silica particles chosen from the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, silica particles different from the previous ones, and their mixtures. Hydrophobic silica aerogels
[0235] Hydrophobic silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (in particular by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air. They are generally synthesized by sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then usually dried by extraction of a supercritical fluid, the most commonly used being supercritical CO2. This type of drying makes it possible to avoid contraction of the pores and the material. The sol-gel process and the different drying methods are described in detail in Brinker CL, and Scherer GW, Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academie Press, 1990.
[0236] The hydrophobic silica aerogels used according to the present invention are preferably silylated silica aerogels (INCI name Silica Silylate).
[0237] By hydrophobic silica is meant any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example with halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with Si-Rn silyl groups, for example trimethylsilyl groups.
[0238] Concerning the preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles modified on the surface by silylation, reference may be made to document US 7,470,725.
[0239] In particular, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles modified on the surface by trimethylsilyl groups (trimethylsiloxylated silica) will be used.
[0240] By hydrophobic aerogel particles is meant any particle of the aerogel type having a water absorption capacity at WET POINT of less than 0.1 ml / g, i.e. less than 10 g of water per 100 g of particle.
[0241] The absorption capacity measured at the Wet Point, and noted WP, corresponds to the quantity of a solvent (expressed in grams or milliliters) that must be added to 1 g of particles to obtain a homogeneous paste. It is measured according to the so-called Wet Point method or method for determining the uptake of solvent (water or oil) of powder described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the quantity of solvent adsorbed on the available surface of the powder and / or absorbed by the powder by measuring the Wet Point, described below:
[0242] A glass plate (25 x 25 mm) is placed on a balance and a quantity m of 1 g of powder is weighed onto the glass plate and then a solvent (water or isononyl isononanoate for example) is added drop by drop. The solvent is gradually added to the powder, mixing the mixture regularly (every 3 to 4 drops) using the spatula. The addition of solvent is stopped when a homogeneous paste is obtained. This paste must be spread on the glass plate without cracking or lumps forming. The mass of solvent required to obtain the Wet Point is noted. The average will be taken over 3 tests. Knowing the density of the solvent, the volume Vs (expressed in ml) of solvent used is deduced. The solvent intake corresponds to the ratio Vs / m.
[0243] Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles according to the invention preferably have an oil absorption capacity measured at the WET POINT ranging from 5 to 18 ml / g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml / g and better still from 8 to 12 ml / g.
[0244] The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention preferably have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from 200 to 1500 m2 / g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m2 / g and better still from 600 to 800 m2 / g, and a size expressed as volume average diameter (D [0.5]) of less than 1500 pm and preferably ranging from 1 to 30 pm, preferably from 5 to 25 pm, better still from 5 to 20 pm and even better still from 5 to 15 pm.
[0245] The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method called the BET (BRUNAUER - EMMET - TELLER) method described in The journal of the American Chemical Society, vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794 / 1 (Annex D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles considered.
[0246] The sizes of the aerogel particles according to the invention can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial granulometer of the type Master Sizer 2000® from Malvern. Data is processed based on Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is accurate for isotropic particles, allows for the determination of an effective particle diameter in the case of non-spherical particles. This theory is described in particular in the book by Van de Hulst, HC, Light Scattering by Small Particles Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
[0247] The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention may advantageously have a packed density ranging from 0.02 to 0.10 g / cm3, preferably from 0.02 to 0.08 g / cm3.
[0248] In the context of the present invention, this density can be assessed according to the following protocol, known as the packed density: 40 g of powder are poured into a graduated cylinder; then the cylinder is placed on the STAV 2003® device from STAMPF VOLUMETER; the cylinder is then subjected to a series of 2500 tampings (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between 2 consecutive tests is less than 2%); then the final volume Vf of tamped powder is measured directly on the cylinder. The tamped density is determined by the ratio m / Vf, in this case 40 / Vf (Vf being expressed in cm3 / mg).
[0249] According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit volume SV ranging from 5 to 60 m2 / cm3, preferably from 10 to 50 m2 / cm3 and better still from 15 to 40 m2 / cm3.
[0250] The specific surface area per unit volume is given by the relation: SV = SM.p where p is the packed density expressed in g / cm3 and SM is the specific surface area per unit mass expressed in m2 / g, as defined above.
[0251] According to a particular embodiment, the aerogel particles used are inorganic and more particularly hydrophobic silica aerogel particles having the properties stated above.
[0252] As hydrophobic silica aerogels which can be used in the invention, mention may be made, for example, of the aerogel marketed under the name VM-2260 (INCI name Silica Silylate), by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have an average size of approximately 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.
[0253] Mention may also be made of the aerogels marketed by the company Cabot under the references AEROGEL TLD 201®, AEROGEL OGD 201® and AEROGEL TLD 203®, ENOVA® AEROGEL MT 1100, ENOVA AEROGEL MT 1200®.
[0254] More particularly, use will be made of the aerogel marketed under the name VM-2270® (INCI name Silica Silylate), by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have an average size ranging from 5-15 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.
[0255] The aerogel marketed under the name Enova® Aerogel MT 1100® (INCI name Silica Silylate) by the company CABOT will also be used, the particles of which have an average size ranging from 2-25 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.
[0256] The hydrophobic aerogel particles represent from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 8% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.3 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition Other silica particles
[0257] Other usable silicas may be natural and untreated. Examples include the silicas offered under the names SILLITIN N85®, SILLITIN N87®, SILLITIN N82®, SILLITIN V85® and SILLITIN V88® by the company HOFFMANN MINERAL.
[0258] They can be pyrogenated.
[0259] Pyrogenic silicas can be obtained by high-temperature hydrolysis of a volatile silicon compound in an oxyhydrogen flame, producing a finely divided silica. This process makes it possible in particular to obtain hydrophilic silicas which have a significant number of silanol groups on their surface. It is possible to chemically modify the surface of said silica, by chemical reaction generating a reduction in the number of silanol groups. In particular, it is possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.
[0260] The hydrophobic groups can be: (a) trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained in particular by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisiloxane. Silicas thus treated are called Silica Silylate according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995).; (b) dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are called Silica Dimethyl Silylate according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995).
[0261] As silica powders other than silica aerogels, we can more particularly cite: - porous silica microspheres sold under the name SILICA BEADS SB-700® by the company MYOSHI; SUNSPHERE® H51, SUNSPHERE® H33 by the company ASAHI GLASS; - amorphous silica microspheres coated with polydimethylsiloxane sold under the name SA SUNSPHERE® H 33®, SA SUNSPHERE® H53® by the company AGC SITECH; - precipitated silica microspheres, for example coated with mineral wax such as than polyethylene and in particular sold under the name ACEMATT OK 412® by the company EVONIK DEGUSSA.
[0262] As silica powder, we will more particularly use porous silica microspheres such as those sold under the name SILICA BEADS SB-700® by the company MYOSHI; SUNSPHERE® H51, SUNSPHERE® H33 by the company AGC SITECH.
[0263] The silica particles other than the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles are present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, and most preferably ranging from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0264] According to a preferred form, the composition according to the invention will comprise a mixture comprising at least hydrophobic silica aerogel particles such as those described previously and other silica particles such as those described previously, in particular porous silica microspheres. Additional coloring matters
[0265] A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additional coloring material and preferably at a rate of at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0266] For obvious reasons, this quantity is likely to vary significantly with regard to the intensity of the desired color effect and the color intensity provided by the coloring materials considered and its adjustment clearly falls within the skills of those skilled in the art.
[0267] The additional coloring materials suitable for the invention may be water-soluble but also fat-soluble.
[0268] By water-soluble coloring matter, within the meaning of the invention, is meant any generally organic, natural or synthetic compound, soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and capable of coloring.
[0269] As water-soluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes such as, for example, FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanin (beetroot), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocyanin, black carrot, hibiscus, elderberry), caramel, riboflavin.
[0270] Water-soluble colorants are, for example, beetroot juice and caramel.
[0271] By liposoluble coloring matter, within the meaning of the invention, is meant any generally organic, natural or synthetic compound, soluble in an oily phase or solvents miscible with a fatty substance and capable of coloring.
[0272] As liposoluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of liposoluble dyes, synthetic or natural, such as, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, carotenes ([3-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan brown, quinoline yellow, annatto, curcumin. Cosmetic compositions
[0273] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a composition as defined above.
[0274] By physiologically acceptable medium is meant a medium which is particularly suitable for the application of a composition of the invention to the skin.
[0275] The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the support on which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the aspect in which the composition is to be packaged. Applications
[0276] According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a composition for caring for the skin, body or face, in particular the face.
[0277] According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a makeup composition for keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body or face, in particular the face.
[0278] Thus, according to a sub-mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention can advantageously be presented in the form of a base composition for makeup.
[0279] A composition of the invention can advantageously be presented in the form of a foundation.
[0280] According to another sub-mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a makeup composition for the skin and in particular for the face. It may thus be an eyeshadow or a blush.
[0281] Such compositions are in particular prepared according to the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.
[0282] Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression comprising a must be understood as being synonymous with comprising at least one, unless otherwise specified.
[0283] Expressions between ... and... and ranging from ... to ... must be understood terminals included, unless otherwise specified.
[0284] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples and figures presented below. Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities indicated are expressed as a mass percentage.
[0285] Examples 1 to 3 (outside the invention) and examples 4 and 5 (invention)
[0286] Compositions 1 to 3 outside the invention and compositions 4 to 6 according to the invention were produced.
[0287] [Tables 1] Phas e Ingredients Exl* Ex2* Ex3* Ex4 Ex5 Ex6 Al DIMETHICONE (and) PEG / PPG-18 / 18 DL METHICONE (25% by weight of active ingredient) (X-22-6711D® - SHIN ETSU) 11.50 (2.9% by weight of active ingredient) 11.5 (2.9% by weight of active ingredient) 11.50 (2.9% by weight of active ingredient) 11.50 (2.9% by weight of active ingredient) 11.50 (2.9% by weight of active ingredient) 11.50 (2.9% by weight of active ingredient) ISODODECANE 4.25 4.25 4.25 4.25 4.25 4.25 PEG-10 DL METHICONE (KF-6017®- SHIN ETSU) 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 A2 TRIMETHYLSILOXY SILICATE AND ISODODECANE (75% by weight of active ingredient) (SILSOFT 74® -MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS) 7.00 7.00 7.00 7.00 7.00 7.00 A3 DIMETHICONE (and) POLYSILICONE-11 (16% by weight of active ingredient) (GRANSIL DMG-6® -GRANT INDUSTRIES) 9.10 9.10 9.10 9.10 9.10 9.10 A4 SILICA (SUNSPHERE H 51®-AGC SI-TECH) 1,7 1,7 1,7 1,7 1,7 1,7 SILICA SILYLATE (DOW CORNING VM-2270® AEROGEL FINE PARTICLES - DOW CORNING) 0,6 0,6 0,6 0,6 0,6 0,6 NIACINAMIDE 2,31 5,8 9,3 9,3 B WATER qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 GLYCERIN 2,9 2,9 2,9 2,9 2,9 2,9 PROPYLENE GLYCOL 4,0 4,0 4,0 4,0 4,0 4,0 SODIUM CHLORIDE 0,8 0,8 0,8 0,8 0,8 0,8 PHENYLBENZIMID AZOLE SULFONIC ACID (EUSOLEX 232®- MERCK) 4,15 SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0,7 0,7 0,7 0,7 0,7 0,7 NIACINAMIDE - - 2,3 3,5 5,8 9,2 PHENOXYETHANOL 0,8 0,8 0,8 0,8 0,8 0,8 C DIMETHICONE (DOWSIL SH 200® C FLUID 5 CST DOW CORNING). 14,0 14,0 14,0 14,0 14,0 14,0 DIMETHICONE (DOWSIL SH 200 C FLUID 350 CST- DOW CHEMICALS) 3,7 3,7 3,7 3,7 3,7 3,7 D ALCOHOL DENAT. 5,75 5,75 5,75 5,75 5,75 5,75 *hors invention Protocole de préparation des compositions : Préparation de la phase aqueuse :
[0288] All the ingredients of phase B were weighed and stirred with a Rayneri (deflocculator). The pH was adjusted with sodium hydroxide and the amount of water lost was added. Preparation of the oil phase:
[0289] The dimethicones of phase C were weighed, then the isododecane and surfactants of phase Al were mixed under Moritz (rotor / stator) for 5 min, adjusting the speed to obtain a vortex, then placed under an ice water bath. The silicone elastomer of phase A3 was weighed and mixed for 15 minutes, adjusting the speed to always obtain a vortex. The film-forming polymer of phase A3 and the fillers of phase A4 were then weighed. It is possible to pre-disperse the DOW CORNING VM-2270® AEROGEL FINE PARTICLES DOW CORNING in isododecane to facilitate implementation. The mixture was then mixed for 15 minutes, adjusting the speed to always obtain a vortex. Emulsification
[0290] The emulsion was made under Moritz and always under an ice water bath by introducing the aqueous phase into the fatty phase. It was left for 20 min at speed 1300 rpm (increase little by little / vortex).
[0291] The alcohol was then added under Rayneri and allowed to disperse for 5 min while maintaining the temperature below 40°C. HAZE measurements
[0292] Counter-example 1 outside the invention with water-soluble organic UV filter PHE-NYLBENZIMIDAZOLE SULFONIC ACID (EUSOLEX 232®- MERCK) and without niacinamide, counter-example 2 without said UV filter and without niacinamide, counter-example 3 without said UV filter and with less than 3% by weight of niacinamide and the Examples 4 to 6 according to the invention with more than 3% by weight of niacinamide and without said UV filter were subjected to HAZE performance measurements after spreading in the form of films, according to the following protocol: Spreading protocol
[0293] Each composition to be tested was spread using an automatic spreader to a film with a thickness of 25 sqm, on a transparent polyester sheet. The resulting deposit was left for 1 hour at room temperature (25°C). HAZE measurement protocol
[0294] HAZE measurements were carried out using HAZE GARDE® equipment (HAZE GARD PLUS BRANT INDUSTRIE SARL - BYK_GARDNER).
[0295] . The laser was switched on 1 hour before the measurements. After a calibration phase of the device, the previously dried film was positioned for 1 hour, in the device on the laser path. HAZE measurements were automatically performed by the device.
[0296] Three spreads of each composition were made and 10 HAZE measurements were made per composition to determine a HAZE mean and standard deviation. The results are shown in the table below.
[0297] [Tables2] HAZE Exl* without niacinamide 4.15% by weight of Phenylimi dazole Sulfonic Acid Ex2* without niacinamide without Phenylimidazole Sulfonic Acid Ex3* 2.3% by weight of niacinamide without Phenylimidazole Sulfonic Acid Ex4 3.5% of niacinamide without Phenylimidazole Sulfonic Acid Ex5 5.8% of niacinamide without Phenylimidazole Sulfonic Acid Ex6 9.2% of niacinamide without Phenylimidazole Sulfonic Acid AVERAGE on 3 tests 61 52 53 58 60 69 STANDARD DEVIATION on 3 tests 3.53 3.25 1.34 1.23 1.7 1.10 *excluding invention
[0298] Haze tests showed that examples 4 to 6 according to the invention without water-soluble UV filter Phenylimidazole Sulfonic Acid and comprising niacinamide in an amount of at least 3% by weight, isododecane, polyoxyalkylenated linear polydimethylsiloxane emulsifying surfactants of HLB < 8.0 and a volatile dimethicone (5cst) produced i) a blurring equivalent to or even superior to that obtained with example 1 outside the invention comprising the water-soluble UV filter Phenylimidazole Sulfonic Acid and without niacinamide; and ii) better blurring of imperfections compared to that obtained with example 2 outside the invention without said UV filter and without niacinamide; and iii) better blurring of imperfections compared to that obtained with example 3 outside the invention without said UV filter and comprising less than 3% by weight of niacinamide (i.e. 2.3%).
Claims
Claims
1. Composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, in particular comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, comprising: a) at least one continuous oily phase comprising at least one volatile oil chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile silicone oils and mixtures thereof, and b) at least one aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase, the amount of water being greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and c) at least one hydrophobic film-forming polymer, and d) at least one emulsifying surfactant chosen from polyoxyalkylenated linear polydimethyl-methylsiloxanes of HLB < 8.0, and e) at least 3.0% by weight of a vitamin B3 and / or one of its derivatives relative to the total weight of the composition;said composition not containing non-volatile ester oil and said composition not containing a water-soluble organic UV filter comprising at least one benzylidene camphorsulfonic acid group or a water-soluble organic UV filter comprising at least one benzoxazole sulfonic acid group.;
2. A composition according to claim 1, not comprising a non-volatile ester oil.
3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the volatile hydrocarbon oil or oils are chosen from C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin, in particular the volatile hydrocarbon oil is isododecane.
4. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the volatile silicone oil or oils are chosen from linear silicone oils with a viscosity ranging from 1 to 8 mm2 / s, in particular chosen from octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly dodecamethylpentasiloxane.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a mixture of at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil and at least one volatile silicone oil, in particular a mixture of isododecane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane. ^Claim 6] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total concentration of oily phase varies from 20 to 95% by weight, and more particularly varies from 30 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. ^Claim 7] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the volatile oil or oils are present at concentrations ranging from 5 to 45% by weight, more preferably ranging from 10 to 40% by weight and even more preferably ranging from 12 to 35% relative to the total weight of the composition. ^Claim 8] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amount of water varies from 20 to 60% by weight, more particularly from 20 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.^Claim 9] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, where the hydrophobic film-forming polymer is chosen from: - silicone resins; - block ethylenic copolymers; - vinyl polymers comprising at least one unit derived from carbosiloxane dendrimer; - silicone acrylate copolymers; - mixtures thereof; and more particularly chosen from a trimethylsiloxysilicate resin. ^Claim 10] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 0.5% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, more particularly from 2 to 7% by weight of active material of hydrophobic film-forming polymer(s), relative to the total weight of the composition. ^Claim 11] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the linear polyoxyalkylenated polydimethylmethylsiloxane emulsifying surfactants correspond to the following formula (I): CH, CH.CH3 GH3 R — SiO----'Râ CH3 CH3 R2 B ch3 (I) in which: Ri, R2, R3, independently of each other, represent a CrC6 alkyl radical or a radical -(CH2)x-(OCH2CH2)y-(OCH2CH2CH2)z-OR 4, at least one radical RB R2 or R3 not being an alkyl radical; R4. being hydrogen, a C1-C3 alkyl radical or a C2-C4 acyl radical; A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200; B is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; provided that A and B are not equal to zero at the same time; x is an integer ranging from 0 to 6; y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30; z is an integer ranging from 0 to 30.
12. Composition according to claim 11, where the linear polyoxyalkylenated polydimethylmethylsiloxane emulsifying surfactants of formula (I) are chosen from those for which Ri = R3 = methyl radical, x = 0 to 3, R4 is hydrogen.
13. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the linear polyoxyalkylenated polydimethylmethylsiloxane emulsifying surfactant is selected from - PEG / PPG-8 / 8 DIMETHICONE; - PEG / PPG-18 / 18 DIMETHICONE; - the mixture CYCLOPENTASILOXANE (and) PEG / PPG-18 / 18 DL METHICONE; - the mixture CYCLOTETRASILOXANE (and) CYCLOPENTASILOXANE (and) PEG / PPG-18 / 18 DIMETHICONE; - the mixture DIMETHICONE '(and) PEG / PPG-18 / 18 DIMETHICONE - the mixture PEG / PPG-19 / 19 DIMETHICONE (and) C13-C16 ISO-PARAFFIN (and) C10-C13 ISOPARAFFIN; - PEG-3 Dimethicone; - PEG-10 Dimethicone; - their mixtures.
14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising PEG / PPG-18 / 18 DIMETHICONE, preferably in association with a silicone oil, and more particularly a silicone oil of the dimethicone type.
15. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a mixture of PEG / PPG-18 / 18 DIMETHICONE and PEG-10 DIMETHICONE, preferably a mixture of PEG / PPG-18 / 18 DIMETHICONE, DIMETHICONE and PEG-10 DL METHICONE.
16. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the linear polyoxyalkylenated polydimethylmethylsiloxane(s) are present at concentrations ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.5 to 7% by weight, and even more preferably from 1 to 4% relative to the total weight of the composition.
17. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the vitamin B3 is niacinamide.
18. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein vitamin B3 is present in active ingredient concentrations ranging from 3 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 3 to 15% by weight, even more preferably from 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, additionally comprising at least one pulverulent coloring matter; preferably chosen from titanium dioxides and / or iron oxides, in particular coated with a hydrophobic surface treatment agent, in particular with an N-acylated amino acid and / or one of its salts, in particular with a glutamic acid derivative and / or one of its salts, in particular a stearoyl glutamate, such as for example aluminum stearoyl glutamate.
20. Composition according to claim 19, wherein the pulverulent coloring matter(s) is (are) present, preferably, in the composition in a content ranging from 1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 5 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, additionally comprising at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer carried in at least one silicone or hydrocarbon oil, in particular in gel form, and more particularly with the INCI name: DI-METHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE / VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER.
22. Composition according to claim 21, comprising a content of non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer active material, varying from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
23. Cosmetic process for coating, in particular for making up keratin materials, in particular the skin such as the face, hands, eyelids, cheeks, comprising at least the application to said keratin materials of a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims.
24. Use of at least one vitamin B3 and / or one of its derivatives in a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims, as an agent producing a blurring effect on keratin materials after application
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