W / O emulsion comprising a volatile alkane, a non-volatile mixture of C15-C19 alkanes, a non-cyclic volatile silicone oil, a hydrophobic silica aerogel and a silicone emulsifier

A water-in-oil emulsion using volatile alkanes, non-volatile C15-C19 alkanes, and hydrophobic silica aerogel particles addresses the environmental concerns and sensory challenges of traditional cosmetic compositions, achieving stable and soft skin coverage without cyclic volatile silicone oils or microplastics.

FR3158228A1Active Publication Date: 2025-07-18LOREAL SA
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Patent Information

Application Number
FR2024000244
Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2024-01-11
Publication Date
2025-07-18
Estimated Expiration
2044-01-11

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing cosmetic compositions for skin care and makeup, particularly foundations, often rely on cyclic volatile silicone oils and microplastic fillers, which are not biodegradable and pose environmental concerns, while also facing challenges in stability and sensory properties such as ease of spreading, non-greasy feel, and homogeneous coverage.

Method used

A water-in-oil emulsion composition comprising volatile alkanes, non-volatile C15-C19 alkanes, non-cyclic volatile silicone oils, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, and silicone emulsifying surfactants with HLB < 8.0, without cyclic volatile silicone oil or microplastic fillers, to achieve stability, non-greasy, dry, and soft sensory properties with good coverage.

Benefits of technology

The composition provides stable, non-greasy, and soft sensory properties with effective coverage of skin imperfections, while being environmentally friendly by avoiding cyclic volatile silicone oils and microplastics.

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Abstract

W / O emulsion comprising a volatile alkane, a non-volatile mixture of C15-C19 alkanes, a non-cyclic volatile silicone oil, a hydrophobic silica aerogel and a silicone emulsifier The present invention is a composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) at least one continuous oily phase comprising (i) at least one volatile alkane and (ii) at least one non-volatile mixture of C15-C19 alkanes; and (ii) at least one volatile non-cyclic silicone oil, and b) at least one aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase c) at least hydrophobic silica aerogel particles; and d) at least one silicone emulsifying surfactant with HLB ≤ 8.0; said composition not containing cyclic volatile silicone oil or microplastic filler.
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Description

Title of the invention: W / O emulsion comprising a volatile alkane, a non-volatile mixture of C15-C19 alkanes, a non-cyclic volatile silicone oil, a hydrophobic silica aerogel and a silicone emulsifier Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of care and / or makeup of keratin materials, and aims to propose compositions more particularly dedicated to the care and / or makeup of the skin.

[0002] The skin is not a smooth, solid-colored surface and has reliefs and microreliefs such as pores, fine lines, wrinkles, spots, scars, dry areas, which form a somewhat bumpy surface. Quite often, this surface, with its irregularities, forms a whole that is pleasant to look at, but the irregularities are such that sometimes the surface is considered unsightly.

[0003] Cosmetic makeup and / or care compositions are commonly used to camouflage, smooth and / or unify imperfections in the skin's texture such as pores, wrinkles and / or fine lines and / or scars. In this regard, numerous formulations, solid or fluid, anhydrous or not, have been developed to date.

[0004] The application of a makeup composition such as a foundation is the most effective approach to beautifying uneven skin by hiding spots and discolorations, reducing the visibility of relief imperfections such as pores and wrinkles, and masking spots and traces of acne; in this regard, coverage is one of the main properties sought.

[0005] In the cosmetic field, water-in-oil emulsions, also called inverse emulsions, are particularly appreciated by consumers in the field of foundations, sunscreen products or moisturizing creams, with regard to their cosmetic properties, in particular with regard to their comfort after application which is reflected in particular by a deposit effect after drying that is non-greasy, dry, powdery and at the same time soft. These same inverse emulsions also make it possible to contain a significant quantity of fillers and / or pigments and to obtain good coverage and homogeneity during application compared to direct emulsions. However, such compositions have the disadvantage of generally being difficult to stabilize.

[0006] Skin makeup compositions, especially liquid foundations, generally contain volatile solvents such as volatile silicone oils. cyclics also called cyclomethicones such as octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane (D4), decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane (D5), dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane (D6). They provide a non-greasy, dry, powdery and at the same time soft, like silky touch and promote the spreading of the product on the skin. However, cyclic volatile silicone oils are synthetic polymers of the polyorganosiloxane type which are not biodegradable.

[0007] Care and / or makeup compositions for keratin materials such as skin often also contain fillers.

[0008] By "filler" is meant colorless or white, solid particles of all shapes, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition.

[0009] They are used as opacifiers; mattifiers, for a very specific soft and silky touch, to give body or rigidity to the composition and / or softness and uniformity to the makeup.

[0010] Many care and / or makeup products include organic fillers and most often consist of synthetic polymer particles called microplastics.

[0011] According to the definition of the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA), "microplastic filler" means a synthetic microparticle in solid form composed of polymer, the size of which is less than 5 mm, insoluble and non-biodegradable. Microplastic fillers are generally dry and soft to the touch.

[0012] There remains a need to find new formulas for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion without cyclic volatile silicone oil and without microplastic filler having good covering properties to correct imperfections with a homogeneous result, good sensory properties such as ease of spreading, a deposit effect after drying, non-greasy, dry powdery and at the same time soft, and good stability in temperature stability tests.

[0013] Unexpectedly, the inventors have found that it is possible to achieve these objectives with a composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: (a) at least one continuous oily phase comprising (i) at least one volatile alkane and (ii) at least one non-volatile mixture of C15-C19 alkanes; and (iii) at least one volatile non-cyclic silicone oil, and b) at least one aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase

[0014] c) at least hydrophobic silica aerogel particles; and

[0015] d) at least one silicone emulsifying surfactant with HLB < 8.0; said composition not containing cyclic volatile silicone oil or microplastic filler.

[0016] This discovery is the basis of the invention. Objects of the invention

[0017] Thus, a first object of the present invention is a composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) at least one continuous oily phase comprising (i) at least one volatile alkane and (ii) at least one non-volatile mixture of C15-C19 alkanes; and (ii) at least one volatile non-cyclic silicone oil, and b) at least one aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase

[0018] c) at least hydrophobic silica aerogel particles; and

[0019] d) at least one silicone emulsifying surfactant with HLB < 8.0; said composition not containing cyclic volatile silicone oil or microplastic filler.

[0020] A second subject of the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for coating, in particular for making up keratin materials, in particular the skin such as the face, hands, eyelids, cheeks, comprising at least: the step of applying the composition, a composition as defined above on said keratin materials. Definitions

[0021] In the context of the present invention, the term “keratin material” is understood to mean in particular skin such as the face, body, hands, cheeks, eyelids, and the contour of the eyes.

[0022] By "physiologically acceptable" is meant compatible with the skin and / or its appendages, which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness), likely to deter the consumer from using this composition.

[0023] By water-in-oil emulsion is meant a composition comprising an immiscible oily phase and an aqueous phase; the aqueous phase being dispersed in the form of droplets in the oily phase (called continuous) so as to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous composition.

[0024] By “composition without cyclic volatile silicone oil” is meant any composition comprising less than 1.0% by weight of cyclic volatile silicone oil, or even less than 0.5% by weight, or even less than 0.1% by weight relative to the weight, total weight of the composition or even free of cyclic volatile silicone oil.

[0025] By “microplastic-free composition” is meant any composition comprising less than 1.0% by weight of microplastic(s), or even less than 0.5% by weight, or even less than 0.1% by weight relative to the weight, to the total weight of the composition or even free of microplastic.

[0026] By oil is meant a fatty organic body which is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg or 105 Pa).

[0027] For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (103 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).

[0028] For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile alkane" means any alkane capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile alkane is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (103 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).

[0029] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 2.66 Pa, preferably less than 0.13 Pa. For example, the vapor pressure can be measured according to the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetry effusion method, as a function of the vapor pressure (OECD standard 104).

[0030] By "non-volatile alkane" is meant an alkane remaining on the skin at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 2.66 Pa, preferably less than 0.13 Pa. For example, the vapor pressure can be measured according to the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetry effusion method, as a function of the vapor pressure (OECD standard 104) Oily phase

[0031] A cosmetic composition in accordance with the present invention comprises a continuous oily phase containing (i) at least one volatile alkane and (ii) at least one non-volatile mixture of C15-C19 alkanes; and (iii) at least one volatile non-cyclic silicone oil.

[0032] The oily phase comprises at least one oil and optionally ingredients soluble or miscible in said phase.

[0033] Oil is understood to mean any fatty substance in liquid form at room temperature (20-25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760mm Hg or 105 Pa).

[0034] A composition of the invention may comprise an oily phase in a content varying from 25 to 85% by weight, in particular from 30 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Volatile alkanes (i)

[0035] The volatile alkanes (i) according to the invention may be chosen from branched C8-C16 alkanes. Mention may in particular be made of C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar® or Permetyl®.

[0036] The volatile alkanes (i) according to the invention may also be chosen from linear alkanes, C6-Ci4

[0037] As an example of linear C6-Ci4 alkanes (i) suitable for the invention, mention may be made of those described in the patent applications of the company Cognis WO2007 / 068371 and WO2008 / 155059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes differing by at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from copra or palm oil.

[0038] As examples of linear C6-Ci4 alkanes (i) suitable for the invention, mention may also be made of n-hexane (C6); n-heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (Ci0), n-undecane (Cn), n-dodecane (Ci2), n-tridecane (Cn), n-tetradecane (Ci4), and mixtures thereof.

[0039] Mention may in particular be made of n-dodecane (Ci2) and n-tetradecane (CM) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12 97® and PARAFOL 14 97®, as well as their mixtures.

[0040] According to another embodiment, a mixture of n-dodecane and n-tetradecane is used. In particular, the dodecane / tetradecane mixture in the weight ratio 85 / 15 marketed by the company BIOSYNTHIS under the reference VEGELIGHT 1214® can be used.

[0041] According to yet another embodiment, a mixture of volatile linear C9-C12 alkanes with INCI name: C9-12 ALKANE is used, such as the product marketed by the company BIOSYNTHIS under the reference VEGELIGHT SILK®.

[0042] According to yet another embodiment, a mixture of n-undecane (Cn) is used. and n-tridecane (Cn) like those obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO2008 / 155059 from the company Cognis and like that sold under the trade name CETIOL ULTIMATE® by the company BASF.

[0043] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the volatile alkane is isododecane.

[0044] Preferably, the volatile alkane or volatile alkanes is (are) present in an amount varying from 3 to 14% by weight, in particular from 5 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0045] Non-volatile mixture of linear alkanes in G-Glni

[0046] The oily phase of the composition according to the invention comprises ii) at least one non-volatile mixture of C15-C19 alkanes such as the products marketed under the references EMOGREEN L19® and EMOSMART L19® from SEPPIC.

[0047] The mixture (ii) of Cb-Cb alkanes (ii) is preferably present in the composition of the invention at contents ranging from 6 to 13% by weight, preferably from 5 to 11% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Non-cyclic volatile silicone oils (iii)

[0048] According to the invention, the non-cyclic volatile silicone oils (iii) according to the invention are preferably chosen from: - non-cyclic linear silicones of formula (I): [Chem 1]: R3SiO-(R2SiO)n-SiR3 (I) in which R, identical or different, denotes: - a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more fluorine atoms or by one or more hydroxyl groups, or - a hydroxyl group, one of the radicals R possibly being a phenyl group, n is an integer ranging from 0 to 8, preferably ranging from 2 to 6, and better still ranging from 3 to 5, the silicone compound of formula (I) containing at most 15 carbon atoms. - the following branched silicones of formula (II) or (III): [Chem 2] R3SiO-[(R3SiO)RSiO]-(R2SiO)x-SiR3 (II) Or [Chem 3] [R3SiO]4Si (III) in which R, identical or different, denotes: - a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more fluorine atoms or by one or more hydroxyl groups, or - a hydroxyl group, one of the radicals R being able to be a phenyl group, x is an integer ranging from 0 to 8, the silicone compound of formula (II) or (III) containing at most 15 carbon atoms.

[0049] Preferably, for the compounds of formulas (I), (II), (III), the ratio between the number of carbon atoms and the number of silicon atoms is between 2.25 and 4.33.

[0050] The silicones of formulas (I) to (III) can be prepared according to the known methods of the synthesis of silicone compounds.

[0051] Examples of non-cyclic volatile silicones that can be used according to the invention are indicated below; these silicones can be used alone or as a mixture.

[0052] Among the silicones of formula (I), we can cite: a) The following disiloxanes (L2): hexamethyldisiloxane, notably sold under the name DC 200 FLUID® 0.65 is by DOW CORNING company 1,3-di-tert-butyl-1,1,3,3-tetramethyl disiloxane; 1,3-dipropyl 1,1,3,3-tetramethyl disiloxane; heptyl pentamethyl disiloxane; 1,1,1-triethyl 3,3,3-trimethyl disiloxane; hexaethyl disiloxane; 1,1,3,3-tetramethyl l,3-bis(2-methylpropyl) disiloxane; pentamethyl octyl disiloxane; 1,1,1-trimethyl 3,3,3-tris(1-methylethyl)disiloxane; 1-butyl 3-ethyl 1,1,3-trimethyl 3-propyl disiloxane; pentamethyl pentyl disiloxane; 1-butyl 1,1,3,3-tetramethyl 3-(l-methyl ethyl) disiloxane; 1,1,3,3-tetramethyl l,3-bis(1-methyl propyl) disiloxane; 1,1,3-triethyl 1,3,3-tripropyl disiloxane; (3,3-dimethylbutyl)pentamethyl disiloxane; (3-methyl butyl) pentamethyl disiloxane; (3-methyl pentyl) pentamethyl disiloxane; 1,1,1-triethyl 3,3-dimethyl 3-propyl disiloxane; 1-(1,1-dimethylethyl) 1,1,3,3,3-pentamethyl disiloxane; 1,1,1-trimethyl 3,3,3-tripropyl disiloxane; 1,3-dimethyl l,l,3,3-tetrakis(l-methyl ethyl) disiloxane; 1,1-dibutyl 1,3,3,3-tetramethyl disiloxane; 1,1,3,3-tetramethyl l,3-bis(1-methyl ethyl) disiloxane; 1,1,1,3-tetramethyl 3,3-bis(l-methyl ethyl) disiloxane; 1,1,1,3-tetramethyl 3,3-dipropyl disiloxane; 1,1,3,3-tetramethyl l,3-bis(3-methyl butyl) disiloxane; butyl pentamethyl disiloxane; pentaethyl methyl disiloxane; 1,1,3,3-tetramethyl 1,3-dipentyl disiloxane; 1,3-dimethyl 1,1,3,3-tetrapropyl disiloxane; 1,1,1,3-tetraethyl 3,3-dimethyl disiloxane; 1,1,1-triethyl 3,3,3-tripropyl disiloxane; 1,3-dibutyl 1,1,3,3-tetramethyl disiloxane; hexyl pentamethyl disiloxane; (b) the following trisiloxanes (L3): octamethyltrisiloxane, notably sold under the name XIAMETER PMX-200 SILICONE FLUID ICS® by DOW CORNING; 3-pentyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane; 1-hexyl 1,1,3,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane; 1,1,1,3,3,5,5-heptamethyl 5-octyl trisiloxane; 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl 3-octyl trisiloxane, notably sold under the name "SILSOFT 034®" by the company OSI; 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl 3-hexyl trisiloxane, notably sold under the name mination "DC 2-1731® by the DOW CORNING company; 1,1,3,3,5,5-hexamethyl 1,5-dipropyl trisiloxane; 3-(l-ethylbutyl) 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane; 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl 3-(l-methylpentyl) trisiloxane; 1,5-diethyl 1,1,3,3,5,5-hexamethyl trisiloxane; 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl 3-(l-methylpropyl) trisiloxane; 3-(1,1-dimethylethyl) 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane; 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl 3,3-bis(l-methylethyl) trisiloxane; 1,1,1,3,3,5,5-hexamethyl l,5-bis(l-methylpropyl) trisiloxane; 1,5-bis(1,1-dimethylethyl)-1,1,3,3,5,5-hexamethyltrisiloxane; 3-(3,3-dimethyl butyl) 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane; 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl 3-(3-methylbutyl) trisiloxane; 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl 3-(3-methylpentyl) trisiloxane; 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl 3-(2-methylpropyl) trisiloxane; 1-butyl 1,1,3,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane; 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl 3-propyl trisiloxane; 3-isohexyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane; 1,3,5-triethyl 1,1,3,5,5-pentamethyl trisiloxane; 3-butyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane; 3-tert-pentyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane; 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl 3,3-dipropyl trisiloxane; 3,3-diethyl 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl trisiloxane; 1,5-dibutyl 1,1,3,3,5,5-hexamethyl trisiloxane; 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexaethyl 3,3-dimethyl trisiloxane; 3,3-dibutyl 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl trisiloxane; 3-ethyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane; 3-heptyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane; 1-ethyl 1,1,3,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane; cl the following tetrasiloxanes (L4): decamethyltetrasiloxane; 1,1,3,3,5,5,7,7-octamethyl 1,7-dipropyl tetrasiloxane; 1,1,1,3,3,5,7,7,7-nonamethyl 5-(l-methylethyl) tetrasiloxane; 1-butyl 1,1,3,3,5,5,7,7,7-nonamethyl tetrasiloxane; 3,5-diethyl 1,1,1,3,5,7,7,7-octamethyl tetrasiloxane; 1,3,5,7-tetraethyl 1,1,3,5,7,7-hexamethyl tetrasiloxane; 3,3,5,5-tetraethyl 1,1,1,7,7,7-hexamethyl tetrasiloxane; 1,1,1,3,3,5,5,7,7-nonamethyl 7-phenyl tetrasiloxane; 3,3-diethyl 1,1,1,5,5,7,7,7-octamethyl tetrasiloxane; 1,1,1,3,3,5,7,7,7-nonamethyl-5-phenyl tetrasiloxane; (d) the following pentasiloxanes (L5): dodecamethylpentasiloxane; 1,1,3,3,5,5,7,7,9,9-decamethyl-1,9-dipropyl pentasiloxane; 3,3,5,5,7,7-hexaethyl-1,1,1,9,9,9-hexamethyl pentasiloxane; 1,1,1,3,3,5,7,7,9,9,9-undecamethyl 5-phenyl pentasiloxane; 1-butyl 1,1,3,3,5,5,7,7,9,9,9-undecamethyl pentasiloxane; 3,3-diethyl 1,1,1,5,5,7,7,9,9,9-decamethyl pentasiloxane; 1,3,5,7,9-pentaethyl 1,1,3,5,7,9,9-heptamethyl pentasiloxane; 3,5,7-triethyl 1,1,1,3,5,7,9,9,9-nonamethyl pentasiloxane; 1,1,1-triethyl 3,3,5,5,7,7,9,9,9-nonamethyl pentasiloxane; (e) the following hexasiloxanes (L6): 1-butyl 1,1,3,3,5,5,7,7,9,9,11,11,11-tridecamethyl hexasiloxane; 3,5,7,9-tetraethyl 1,1,1,3,5,7,9,11,11,11-decamethyl hexasiloxane; tetradecamethyl hexasiloxane; (f) hexadecamethyl heptasiloxane (L7); g) octadecamethyl octasiloxane (L8).

[0053] Among the silicones of formula (II), we can cite: (a) the following tetrasiloxanes (L4): 2-[3,3,3-trimethyl l,l-bis[(trimethylsylil)oxy]disiloxanyl] ethyl; 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl 3-(2-methylpropyl) 3-[(trimethylsilyl)oxy] trisiloxane; 3-(1,1-dimethylethyl) 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl 3-[(trimethylsilyl)oxy] trisiloxane; 3-butyl 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl 3-[(trimethylsilyl)oxy]trisiloxane; 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl 3-propyl 3-[(trimethylsilyl)oxy] trisiloxane; 3-ethyl 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl 3-[(trimethylsilyl)oxy] trisiloxane; 1,1,1-triethyl 3,5,5,5-tetramethyl 3-(trimethylsiloxy)trisiloxane; 3-methyl 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl 3-[trimethylsilyl)oxy] trisiloxane; 3-[(dimethylphenylsilyl)oxy] 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane; 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl 3-(2-methylpentyl) 3-[(trimethylsilyl)oxy] trisiloxane; 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl 3-(4-methylpentyl)-3-[(trimethylsilyl)oxy]trisiloxane; 3-hexyl 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl 3-[(trimethylsilyl)oxy] trisiloxane; 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl-3-[(trimethylsilyl)oxy] trisiloxane; (b) the following pentasiloxanes (L5): 1,1,1,3,5,5,7,7,7-nonamethyl 3-(trimethylsiloxy)tetrasiloxane; 1,1,1,3,3,7,7,7-octamethyl 5-phenyl 5-[(trimethylsilyl)oxy]tetrasiloxane; cl the following heptasiloxane (L7): 1,1,1,3,5,5,7,7,9,9,11,11,1 l-tridecamethyl-3-[(trimethylsilyl)oxy]hexasiloxane.

[0054] Among the silicones of formula (III), we can cite: 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamthyl 3,3-bis (trimethylsiloxy) trisiloxane.

[0055] Other volatile silicone oils chosen from: (a) the following tetrasiloxanes (L4): 2,2,8,8-tetramethyl-5-[(pentamethyldisiloxanyl)methyl]-3,7-dioxa-2,8-disilanonane; 2,2,5,8,8-pentamethyl 5-[(trimethylsilyl)methoxy] 4,6-dioxa-2,5,8-trisilanonane; 1,3-dimethyl l,3-bis[(trimethylsilyl)methyl] 1,3-disiloxanediol; 3-ethyl 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl 3-[3-(trimethylsiloxy)propyl] trisiloxane; 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl-3-phenyl-3-[(trimethylsilyl)oxy] trisiloxane (Dow 556 Fluid®); (b) the following pentasiloxanes (L5): 2,2,7,7,9,9,11,11,16,16-decamethyl 3,8,10,15-tetraoxa-2,7,9,11,16-pentasilaheptadecane; silicic acid tetrakis[(trimethylsilyl)methyl] ester; (c) the following hexasiloxanes (L6): 3,5-diethyl 1,1,1,7,7,7-hexamethyl 3,5-bis[(trimethylsilyl)oxy] tetrasiloxane, 1,1,1,3,5,7,7,7-octamethyl 3,5-bis[(trimethylilyl)oxy] tetrasiloxane; d) the following heptasiloxane (L7): 1,1,1,3,7,7,7-heptamethyl 3,5,5-tris[(trimethylsilyl)oxy] tetrasiloxane; (e) the following octasiloxanes (L8): 1,1,1,3,5,5,9,9,9-nonamethyl-3,7,7-tris[(trimethylsilyl)oxy]pentasiloxane; 1,1,1,3,5,7,9,9,9-nonamethyl 3,5,7-tris[(trimethylsilyl)oxy]pentasiloxane; 1,1,1,7,7,7-hexamethyl 3,3,5,5-tetrakis[(trimethylsilyl)oxy]tetrasiloxane.

[0056] Preferably, the non-cyclic volatile silicone oils according to the invention have a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 0.5 to 8 centistokes (from 0.5 to 8 mm2 / s).

[0057] The viscosity measurement method used in the invention to characterize the silicone oils according to the invention may be the “kinematic viscosity at 25°C raw product CID-012-01”, or the “Viscosity Ubbelohde DIN 51562-1 PV04001 25°C”.

[0058] Among the non-cyclic volatile silicone oils according to the invention, the linear non-cyclic volatile silicone oils will be chosen more particularly, and more particularly: - octamethyltrisiloxane, notably sold under the name XIAMETER PMX-200 SILICONE FLUID ICS by the company DOW CORNING; - decamethyltetrasiloxane, notably sold under the name XIAMETER PMX-200 SILICONE FLUID 1.5CS® by the company DOW CORNIN - dodecamethylpentasiloxane such as the commercial products sold under the names KF-96L-2CS®, DM-FLUID-2CS® by Shin Etsu; BERB-DM2® by BRB International or SILICONE FLUID 2CS® by Dow Corning; - their mixtures, and more particularly dodecamethylpentasiloxane.

[0059] Preferably, the non-cyclic volatile silicone oil(s) is (are) present in an amount varying from 4 to 15% by weight, in particular from 7 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Non-volatile silicone oils (iv)

[0060] According to a particular form, the oily phase of the composition of the invention additionally comprises iv) at least one non-volatile silicone oil.

[0061] As non-volatile silicone oils, we can cite: - polydimethylsiloxanes (INCI name: Dimethicone) in particular, with a viscosity ranging from 50 to 500 mm2 / s (est), in particular 350 mm2 / s (est) such as the commercial products sold under the names BELSIL DM 350® from WACKER, XIAMETER PMX-200 SILICONE FLUID® 350CS by DOW CORNING; polydimethylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 50 to 150 mm2 / s (est), in particular 100 mm2 / s (est) such as the commercial products sold under the names BELSIL DM 100® from WACKER, XIAMETER PMX-200 SILICONE FLUID 100CS® by DOW CORNING. - phenyl silicone oils such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenyl ethyl trimethyl-siloxysilicates.

[0062] Preferably, the non-volatile silicone oil(s) is (are) present in an amount varying from 4 to 15% by weight, in particular from 7 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous phase

[0063] The aqueous phase comprises water and optionally water-soluble or water-miscible ingredients such as water-soluble organic solvents.

[0064] Among the water-soluble solvents which may be used in the composition in accordance with the invention, mention may in particular be made of lower monoalcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol and dipropylene glycol, C 3 and C 4 ketones and C 2 -C 4 aldehydes.

[0065] A water suitable for the invention may be a floral water such as cornflower water and / or a mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or a thermal water.

[0066] Water suitable for the invention may also be demineralized water.

[0067] A composition of the invention may comprise water in a content varying from 20 to 50% by weight, and even more preferably from 30 to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Hydrophobic silica aerogel

[0068] The composition of the invention contains at least hydrophobic silica aerogel particles.

[0069] Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.

[0070] They are generally synthesized by sol-gel process in liquid medium and then usually dried by extraction of a supercritical fluid, the most commonly used being supercritical CO2. This type of drying makes it possible to avoid contraction of the pores and the material. The sol-gel process and the different drying methods are described in detail in Brinker CL, and Scherer GW, Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academie Press, 1990.

[0071] Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from 500 to 1500 m2 / g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m2 / g and better still from 600 to 800 m2 / g, and a size expressed as volume average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 pm, better still from 1 to 1000 pm, preferably from 1 to 100 pm, in particular from 1 to 30 pm, more preferably from 5 to 25 pm, better still from 5 to 20 pm and even better still from 5 to 15 pm.

[0072] The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the method nitrogen absorption method called BET (Brunauer - Emmet - Teller) described in "The Journal of the American Chemical Society", vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794 / 1 (Annex D). The BET specific surface corresponds to the total specific surface of the particles considered.

[0073] The sizes of silica aerogel particles can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial granulometer of the Master Sizer 2000® type from Malvern. The data are processed on the basis of Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is accurate for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is described in particular in the work of Van de Hulst, HC, "Light Scattering by Small Particles", Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0074] According to an advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (MS) ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.

[0075] The silica aerogel particles used in the present invention may advantageously have a packed density r ranging from 0.02 to 0.10 g / cm3, preferably from 0.03 to 0.08 g / cm3, in particular ranging from 0.05 to 0.08 g / cm3.

[0076] In the context of the present invention, this density can be assessed according to the following protocol, known as the packed density: 40 g of powder are poured into a graduated cylinder; then the cylinder is placed on the STAV 2003® device from Stampf Volumeter; the cylinder is then subjected to a series of 2500 tampings (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between 2 consecutive tests is less than 2%); then the final volume Vf of tamped powder is measured directly on the cylinder. The tamped density is determined by the ratio m / Vf, in this case 40 / Vf (Vf being expressed in cm3 and m in g).

[0077] According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit volume SV ranging from 5 to 60 m2 / cm3, preferably from 10 to 50 m2 / cm3 and better still from 15 to 40 m2 / cm3.

[0078] The specific surface area per unit volume is given by the relation: SV = SM xr where r is the packed density expressed in g / cm3 and SM is the specific surface area per unit mass expressed in m2 / g, as defined above.

[0079] Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used according to the invention have an oil absorption capacity measured at the Wet Point ranging from 5 to 18 ml / g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml / g and better still from 8 to 12 ml / g.

[0080] The absorption capacity measured at the Wet Point, and noted Wp, corresponds to the quantity of oil that must be added to 100 g of particles to obtain a paste homogeneous.

[0081] It is measured according to the so-called Wet Point method or method for determining powder oil uptake described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the quantity of oil adsorbed on the available surface of the powder and / or absorbed by the powder by measuring the Wet Point, described below: A quantity m = 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate and then the oil (isononyl isononanoate) is added drop by drop. After adding 4 to 5 drops of oil to the powder, mix with a spatula and continue adding oil until conglomerates of oil and powder form. From this point on, the oil is added one drop at a time and the mixture is then kneaded with the spatula. The addition of oil is stopped when a firm and smooth paste is obtained. This paste should spread on the glass plate without cracking or lumps forming. The volume Vs (expressed in ml) of oil used is then noted. The oil uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs / m.

[0082] The aerogels used according to the present invention are hydrophobic silica aerogels, preferably silylated silica (INCI name: SILICA SILYLATE).

[0083] By “hydrophobic silica” is meant any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example with halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with Si-Rn silyl groups, for example trimethylsilyl groups.

[0084] Concerning the preparation of surface-modified hydrophobic silica aerogel particles by silylation, reference may be made to document US 7,470,725.

[0085] Particles of hydrophobic silica aerogels modified on the surface by trimethylsilyl groups will preferably be used, preferably with the INCI name SILICA SILYLATE.

[0086] As hydrophobic silica aerogels which can be used in the invention, mention may be made, for example, of the aerogel marketed under the name VM-2260® or VM-2270® (INCI name: SILICA SILYLATE), by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have an average size of approximately 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.

[0087] Mention may also be made of the aerogels marketed by the company Cabot under the references Aerogel TLD 201®, Aerogel OGD 201®, Aerogel TLD 203®, ENOVA Aerogel MT 1100®, ENOVA Aerogel MT 1200®.

[0088] Preferably, use will be made of the aerogel marketed under the name VM-2270 (INCI name SILICA SILYLATE), by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have an average size ranging from 5-15 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.

[0089] Silica aerogel particles, in particular silylated silica aerogel, may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5 to 13%, preferably in a content ranging from 1 to 5% by weight, in particular ranging from 1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0090] Silicone emulsifying surfactants with HLB < 8.0

[0091] The composition of the invention contains at least one silicone emulsifying surfactant with an HLB of less than or equal to 8.0.

[0092] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "emulsifying surfactant" means an amphiphilic surfactant compound, i.e. one having two parts of different polarity. In general, one is lipophilic (soluble or dispersible in an oily phase), the other is hydrophilic (soluble or dispersible in water). Emulsifying surfactants are characterized by the value of their HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance), the HLB being the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in the molecule. The term HLB is well known and is described for example in The HLB System. A time-saving guide to Emulsifier Selection (published by ICI Americas Inc; 1984). For emulsifying surfactants, the HLB is less than or equal to 8.0 for the preparation of W / O emulsions. The HLB of the surfactant(s) used according to the invention can be determined by the GRIFFIN method or the DA VIES method.

[0093] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “silicone emulsifying surfactant” means a polyorganosilioxane comprising in its structure at least one hydrophilic chain, in particular at least one polyoxyalkylenated chain (i.e. polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylated) or a polyglycerolated chain.

[0094] The silicone emulsifying surfactant(s) with HLB < 8.0 is (are) preferably present in the composition at contents ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0095] Among the silicone emulsifying surfactants with HLB < 8, mention may be made of dimethicone copolyols such as that having the INCI name DIMETHICONE (and) PEG / PPG-18 / 18 DIMETHICONE (HLB = 2) sold under the brand name X-22-6711D® by the company SHIN ETSU, alkyl-dimethicone copolyols such as Cetyl Dimethicone copolyol such as CETYL PEG / PPG-10 / 1 DIMETHICONE (HLB = 5) such as the product sold under the name AB IL EM 90® by the company Evonik and the mixture of cetyl dimethicone copolyol, polyglycerol isostearate (4 moles) and hexyl laurate sold under the name AB IL WE 09® by the company EVONIK with the INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 ISOSTEARATE (AND) CETYL PEG / PPG-10 / 1 DL METHICONE (AND) HEXYL LAURATE.

[0096] According to a particular form, the composition of the invention comprises at least one mixture of silicone emulsifying surfactants with HLB < 8.0 which is a mixture of DIMETHICONE, PEG / PPG-18 / 18 DIMETHICONE and CETYL PEG / PPG-10 / 1 DIMETHICONE and more particularly a mixture of DIMETHICONE, PEG / PPG-18 / 18 DIMETHICONE and CETYL PEG / PPG-10 / 1 DIMETHICONE and PO-LYGLYCERYL-4 ISOSTEARATE.

[0097] According to a particular form of the invention, the silicone emulsifying surfactant with HLB < 8.0 can be chosen from emulsifying silicone elastomers.

[0098] By "silicone elastomer" is meant a flexible, deformable organopolysiloxane having viscoelastic properties and in particular the consistency of a sponge or a flexible sphere. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material resists deformation and has a limited capacity for extension and contraction. This material is capable of returning to its original shape following stretching.

[0099] The emulsifying silicone elastomer may be chosen from polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers, polyglycerolated silicone elastomers, and mixtures thereof. Polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers

[0100] The polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer is a crosslinked organopolysiloxane which can be obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and of a polyoxyalkylenated having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups.

[0101] Preferably, the polyoxyalkylenated crosslinked organopolysiloxane is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction (A1) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (Bl) of polyoxyalkylenated having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups, in particular in the presence (Cl) of platinum catalyst, as for example described in patents US5236986 and US5412004.

[0102] In particular, the organopolysiloxane can be obtained by reaction of polyoxyalkylene (in particular polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene) with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations and of methylhydrogenopolysiloxane with trimethylsiloxy terminations, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

[0103] The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of the compound (Al) may be alkyl groups having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetyl, stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group.

[0104] The compound (Al) can thus be chosen from methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes with trimethylsiloxy endings, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy endings, cyclic dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers, dimethylsiloxane-me- ethylhydrogensiloxane-laurylmethylsiloxane with trimethylsiloxy ends.

[0105] Compound (Cl) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is notably chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, black platinum, and supported platinum.

[0106] Advantageously, the polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers can be formed from divinyl compounds, in particular polyoxyalkylenates having at least two vinyl groups, reacting with Si-H bonds of a polysiloxane.

[0107] The polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer according to the invention is preferably mixed with at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or one silicone oil to form a gel. In these gels, the polyoxyalkylenated elastomer may be in the form of non-spherical particles.

[0108] Polyoxyalkylenated elastomers are notably described in patents US5236986, US5412004, US5837793, US5811487.

[0109] As polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers, those with the following INCI names can be used: Dimethicone / PEG-10 / 15 -Cro spolymer, PEG-15 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-10 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-12 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-10 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-10 Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-12 Dimethicone / PPG-20 Crosspolymer, and mixtures thereof.

[0110] They are notably marketed under the names KSG® by the company Shin Etsu “KSG-210®” (INCI Name: Dimethicone and Dimethicone / PEG-10 / 15 -Cross spoly mer “KSG-310®” INCI Name: PEG-15 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer and Mineral Oil; “KSG-320®” INCI Name: PEG-15 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer and Iso-dodecane; “KSG-330®” INCI Name: PEG-15 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer and Triethyl-hexanoin; "KSG-340®" INCI Name: Squalane (and) PEG-10 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) PEG-15 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

[0111] We can also cite the product sold under the name Dow Corning EL-7040 Hydro Elastomer Blend® by the company DOW CORNING for the compound with the INCI name: PEG-12 Dimethicone / PPG-20 Crosspolymer. Polyglycerolated silicone elastomers

[0112] The polyglycerolated silicone elastomer is a crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer which can be obtained by addition crosslinking reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and polyglycerolated compounds having ethylenically unsaturated groups, in particular in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

[0113] Preferably, the elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each linked to a silicon, and (B) of glycerolated compounds having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups, in particular in the presence (C) of platinum catalyst.

[0114] In particular, the organopolysiloxane can be obtained by reaction of a polyglycerolated compound with dimethylvinylsiloxy endings and of methylhydrogenopolysiloxane with trimethylsiloxy endings, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

[0115] Compound (A) is the basic reagent for the formation of elastomeric organopolysiloxane and crosslinking is carried out by addition reaction of compound (A) with compound (B) in the presence of catalyst (C).

[0116] Compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane having at least 2 hydrogen atoms linked to distinct silicon atoms in each molecule.

[0117] Compound (A) may have any molecular structure, in particular a linear chain or branched chain structure or a cyclic structure.

[0118] Compound (A) may have a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1 to 50,000 centistokes, in particular to be easily miscible with compound (B).

[0119] The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of compound (A) may be alkyl groups having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetyl, stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group. Preferably, said organic group is selected from methyl, phenyl, lauryl groups.

[0120] Compound (A) can thus be chosen from methylhydrogenpolysiloxanes with trimethylsiloxy endings, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy endings, cyclic dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane copolymers, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane-laurylmethylsiloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy endings.

[0121] Compound (B) may be a polyglycerolated compound corresponding to formula (B1) next: CmH2m4 -0-[ Gly ]n-CmH2m(B') in which m is an integer ranging from 2 to 6, n is an integer ranging from 2 to 200, preferably ranging from 2 to 100, preferably ranging from 2 to 50, preferably n ranging from 2 to 20, preferably ranging from 2 to 10, and preferentially ranging from 2 to 5, and in particular equal to 3; Gly denotes: -ch2-CH(OH)-CH2-O- or -CH2-CH(CH2OH)-O-

[0122] Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of compound (B) and the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms per molecule of compound (A) is at least 4.

[0123] It is advantageous that the compound (A) is added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in the compound (A) and the total amount of all ethylenically unsaturated groups in the compound (B) is in the range of 1 / 1 to 20 / 1.

[0124] Compound (C) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is notably chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, black platinum, and supported platinum.

[0125] The catalyst (C) is preferably added from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, more preferably from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of compounds (A) and (B).

[0126] The polyglycerol silicone elastomer according to the invention is generally mixed with at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or one silicone oil to form a gel. In these gels, the polyglycerol elastomer is often in the form of non-spherical particles.

[0127] Such elastomers are notably described in patent application WO2004 / 024798.

[0128] As polyglycerolated silicone elastomers, the following compounds with INCI names can be used: Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer, Lauryl Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer, and mixtures thereof.

[0129] They are notably sold by the company Shin Etsu under the following names: “KSG-710®”; INCI name: Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer and Di-methicone “KSG-810®”; INCI name: Ore Oil and Lauryl Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer; “KSG-820®”; INCI name: Isododecane and Lauryl Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer; “KSG-830®”; INCI name: Triethylhexanoin and Lauryl Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer; “KSG-840®”; INCI name: Squalane and Lauryl Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer. Powdered coloring matter

[0130] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition additionally comprises at least one pulverulent coloring material.

[0131] The powdery coloring materials can be chosen from coloring pigments, pearlescent agents, optical effect pigments and their mixtures.

[0132] The term “pigments” means white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous medium, intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the resulting deposit.

[0133] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.

[0134] By "mineral pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the inorganic pigment chapter. Among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti 2O3, TiO, ZrO2 in mixture with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, ZnS.

[0135] The size of the pigment useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and can range up to 10 qm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 qm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 qm.

[0136] According to a particular form of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D

[50] greater than 100 nm and which can range up to 10 qm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 qm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 qm.

[0137] The sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial granulometer of the MasterSizer 3000® type from Malvem, making it possible to understand the particle size distribution of all the particles over a wide range from 0.01 qm to 1000 qm. The data are processed on the basis of the classical Mie scattering theory. This theory is the most suitable for size distributions ranging from submicron to multi-micron, it makes it possible to determine an “effective” particle diameter. This theory is notably described in the work of Van de Hulst, HC, “Light Scattering by Small Particles”, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0138] D

[50] represents the maximum size that 50% by volume of the particles has.

[0139] In the context of the present invention, the mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxides, titanium dioxides, and mixtures thereof. By way of example, mention may be made more particularly of titanium dioxides and iron oxides, coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, for example marketed under the reference NAI® by the company MIYOSHI KASEI.

[0140] As mineral pigments which can be used in the invention, mention may also be made of nacres.

[0141] By “mother-of-pearl” is meant colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular, produced by certain molluscs in their shell or synthesized and which present a color effect by optical interference.

[0142] The nacres may be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic coloring materials.

[0143] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.

[0144] Examples of mother-of-pearls that may also be mentioned include natural mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride.

[0145] The mother-of-pearls can more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery color or reflection.

[0146] Among the pigments that can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of those with an optical effect different from a simple conventional tint effect, that is to say unified and stabilized as produced by conventional coloring materials, such as, for example, monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of the invention, "stabilized" means devoid of any effect of variability of the color with the angle of observation or in response to a change in temperature.

[0147] For example, this material may be chosen from metallic sheen particles, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffracting pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brightening agents, as well as fibers, in particular interference fibers. Of course, these different materials may be combined so as to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even a new effect in accordance with the invention.

[0148] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one uncoated pigment.

[0149] According to another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound.

[0150] This type of pigment is particularly advantageous. To the extent that they are treated with a hydrophobic compound, they exhibit a predominant affinity for an oily phase which can then carry them.

[0151] The coating may also comprise at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.

[0152] For the purposes of the invention, “coating” a pigment according to the invention generally designates the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surface agent, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment.

[0153] The surface-treated pigments may be prepared according to surface treatment techniques of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical or mechanical nature well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products may also be used.

[0154] The surfactant can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond.

[0155] According to one variant, the surface treatment consists of a coating of the pigments.

[0156] The coating may represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and in particular 0.5% to 5% by weight of the total weight of the coated pigment.

[0157] The coating can be carried out for example by adsorption of a liquid surface agent on the surface of the solid particles by simple mixing with stirring of the particles and said surface agent, optionally hot, prior to the incorporation of the particles into the other ingredients of the makeup or care composition.

[0158] The coating can be carried out for example by chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the solid pigment particles and creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the particles. This method is notably described in US patent 4,578,266.

[0159] The chemical surface treatment may consist of diluting the surfactant in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent, so that the surfactant is deposited on the surface of the pigments.

[0160] When the pigment comprises a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, the latter is preferably present in the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention.

[0161] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments may be coated according to the invention with at least one compound chosen from silicone surfactants; fluorinated surfactants; fluoro-silicone surfactants; metallic soaps; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural waxes plant or animal tutelages; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and their mixtures.

[0162] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments can be coated with a hydrophilic compound.

[0163] According to a particular embodiment, the coloring matter is an organic, synthetic, natural or naturally occurring pigment.

[0164] By "organic pigment" is meant any pigment which meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the organic pigment chapter. The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone compounds.

[0165] The organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole derivatives,phenolics as described in patent FR 2 679 771.,

[0166] The pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the fixing of the organic pigments on the core.

[0167] The pigment may also be a lake. By lake is meant insolubilized dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

[0168] The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.

[0169] Among the organic dyes, we can cite cochineal carmine. We can also cite the products known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Bine 1 (CI 42 090).

[0170] Examples of lacquers include the product known under the name D&C Red 7 (CI 15850:1).

[0171] Preferably, the pulverulent coloring material(s) is / are present, preferably, in the composition in a content ranging from 1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 5 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0172] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a composition as defined above.

[0173] The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the support on which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the aspect in which the composition is to be packaged.

[0174] The compositions according to the invention may also comprise additives commonly used in care and / or makeup products such as: - additional active ingredients such as vitamins A, C, E, hyaluronic acid or one of its salts - sunscreens; - fat-soluble or water-soluble coloring matters - additional fillers other than hydrophobic silica aerogel particles; - lipophilic thickeners; - hydrophilic thickeners - co-emulsifiers, - perfumes - conservatives

[0175] - antioxidant agents,

[0176] - chelating agents,

[0177] - neutralizing agents,

[0178] - and mixtures thereof.

[0179] It is a matter of routine operation for a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and quantity of the additives present in the compositions in accordance with the invention, so that the desired cosmetic properties thereof are not affected. Additional coloring matters

[0180] A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one material additional water-soluble or fat-soluble coloring agent and preferably at a rate of at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0181] For obvious reasons, this quantity is likely to vary significantly with regard to the intensity of the desired color effect and the color intensity provided by the coloring materials considered and its adjustment clearly falls within the skills of those skilled in the art.

[0182] The additional coloring materials suitable for the invention may be liposoluble.

[0183] By "liposoluble coloring matter", within the meaning of the invention, is meant any generally organic, natural or synthetic compound, soluble in an oily phase or solvents miscible with a fatty substance and capable of coloring.

[0184] As liposoluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of liposoluble dyes, synthetic or natural, such as, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, carotenes (b-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan brown, quinoline yellow, annatto, curcumin.

[0185] The additional coloring materials suitable for the invention may be water-soluble.

[0186] By "water-soluble coloring matter", within the meaning of the invention, is meant any generally organic, natural or synthetic compound, soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and capable of coloring.

[0187] As water-soluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes such as, for example, FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanin (beetroot), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocyanin, black carrot, hibiscus, elderberry), caramel, riboflavin. Additional charges

[0188] The compositions in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one additional filler other than the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles.

[0189] Preferably, they will be chosen from mineral or organic fillers, natural or of natural origin.

[0190] The additional fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be of lamellar, globular, spherical, fiber forms or any other intermediate form between these defined forms.

[0191] The additional fillers according to the invention may or may not be surface coated. cially, and, in particular, they can be surface-treated with silicones, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance promoting the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition. b) Mineral charges

[0192] Examples of additional mineral fillers include talcs, natural or synthetic micas such as synthetic fluorphlogopites, silica such as amorphous silica microspheres such as the commercial product sold under the name SOLESPHERE H 51® or SUNSPHERE H 51® by the company AGC SI-TECH, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, glass or ceramic microcapsules, silica and titanium dioxide composites, such as the TSG® series marketed by Nippon Sheet Glass.

[0193] Preferably, the additional mineral filler(s) is (are) present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, more particularly from 3 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. b) Organic charges

[0194] Examples of organic fillers include natural micronized waxes; metallic soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; lauroyl lysine, cellulose powders such as that marketed by Daito in the Cellulobeads® range. Lipophilic thickeners

[0195] Depending on the viscosity of the composition that it is desired to obtain, one or more lipophilic thickeners, i.e. soluble or dispersible in the oily phase, can be incorporated into a composition of the invention.

[0196] Preferably, the lipophilic thickeners will be chosen from natural or naturally derived gelling agents.

[0197] As lipophilic gelling agents, we can cite for example modified clays such as modified magnesium silicate (BENTONE GEL VS38® from RHEOX), hectorite modified by DISTEARYL dimethyl ammonium chloride (CTFA name: Disteardimonium Hectorite) such as the product marketed under the name “BENTONE 38 CE®” by the company RHEOX.

[0198] According to a particular embodiment, said composition additionally comprises j) at least one natural or naturally occurring hydrophilic gelling agent and / or at least one natural or naturally occurring lipophilic gelling agent, and more preferably at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from modified clays, and more particularly a hectorite modified by distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (INCI name: DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE) such as the product marketed under the name “BENTONE 38 CE®” by the company RHEOX or the product “BENTONE 38VCG” from the company ELEMENTIS. Hydrophilic thickeners

[0199] Depending on the viscosity of the composition that it is desired to obtain, one or more hydrophilic thickeners, i.e. soluble or dispersible in the aqueous phase, can be incorporated into a composition of the invention.

[0200] Preferably, the lipophilic thickeners will be chosen from natural or naturally derived gelling agents.

[0201] As an example of hydrophilic thickeners, we can cite celluloses such as carboxymethylcellulose such as that with the INCI name: CELLULOSE GUM such as the commercial product BLANOSE CMC 7M8SF® from the company ASHLAND).

[0202] We can cite native starches and chemically modified starches such as that with the INCI name ALUMINUM STARCH OCTENYLSUCCINATE (DRY FLO PLUS® - AKZO NOBEL).

[0203] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a composition as defined above.

[0204] The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the support on which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the aspect in which the composition is to be packaged.

[0205] According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a skin care composition, in particular for the body or the face, in particular the face.

[0206] According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a makeup composition for keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body or face, in particular the face.

[0207] Thus, according to a sub-mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention can advantageously be presented in the form of a base composition for makeup.

[0208] A composition of the invention can advantageously be presented in the form of a foundation.

[0209] According to another sub-mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a makeup composition for the skin and in particular for the face. It may thus be an eyeshadow or a blush.

[0210] Such compositions are in particular prepared according to general knowledge of the man of art. Packaging and applicators

[0211] The compositions according to the invention may be packaged in a container delimiting at least one compartment which comprises said composition, said container being closed by a closing element.

[0212] The container may be in any suitable form. It may in particular be in the form of a bottle, a tube, a pot, a case.

[0213] The closing element may be in the form of a removable stopper, a lid, a cover, in particular of the type comprising a body fixed to the container and a cap hinged to the body. It may also be in the form of an element ensuring the selective closing of the container, in particular a pump, a valve, or a flap.

[0214] The container may be associated with an applicator, in particular in the form of a brush, as described for example in patent FR 2 722 380. The applicator may be in the form of a block of foam or elastomer. The applicator may be free (sponge) or integral with a rod carried by the closure element, as described for example in patent US 5,492,426. The applicator may be integral with the container, as described for example in patent FR 2 761 959.

[0215] The product may be contained directly in the container, or indirectly.

[0216] The closure element may be coupled to the container by screwing. Alternatively, the coupling between the closure element and the container is achieved by means other than screwing, in particular via a bayonet mechanism, by snap-fastening, or by tightening. By "snap-fastening" is meant in particular any system involving the crossing of a bead or cord of material by elastic deformation of a portion, in particular of the closure element, then by return to the non-elastically stressed position of said portion after crossing the bead or cord.

[0217] The container may be at least partly made of thermoplastic material. Examples of thermoplastic materials include polypropylene or polyethylene.

[0218] The container may have rigid walls or deformable walls, in particular in the form of a tube or a tube bottle.

[0219] The container may comprise means for causing or facilitating the dispensing of the composition. For example, the container may have deformable walls so as to cause the composition to exit in response to an overpressure inside the container, which overpressure is caused by elastic (or non-elastic) crushing of the walls of the container.

[0220] The container may be equipped with a wiper arranged in the vicinity of the opening of the container. Such a wiper makes it possible to wipe the applicator and possibly the rod of which it can be integral. Such a wringer is described for example in patent FR 2 792 618.

[0221] Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression "comprising a" must be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.

[0222] The expressions “between ... and ...” and “ranging from ... to ...” must be understood inclusively, unless otherwise specified.

[0223] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples presented below. Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities indicated are expressed as a mass percentage. Examples 1 to 6

[0224] Comparative Examples 1 to 6 were prepared, Example 1 being according to the invention and Examples 2 to 6 outside the invention.

[0225] [Tables 1] Phase Ingrédients Exl Ex 2* Ex3* EX4* Ex5* EX6* Al POLYGLYCERYL-4 ISOSTEARATE (ISOLAN GI 34® -EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT) 2,10 2,10 2,10 2,10 2,10 2,10 PEG-30 DIPOLYHY-DROXYSTEARATE (CITHROL® DPHS-SO-(MV) - CRODA) 3,50 ACETYLATED GLYCOL STEARATE (CETACENE® 135-160 - VEVY) 0,07 0,07 0,07 0,07 0,07 0,07 TRIHYDROXYSTEARI N (THIXCIN R PC® - ELEMENTIS) 0,20 0,20 0,20 0,20 0,20 0,20 C15-19 ALKANE EMOGREEN L19® - SEPPIC) 9,60 13,90 13,20 9,60 9,60 DIMETHICONE (and) PEG / PPG-18 / 18 DL METHICONE (X-22-6711D® - SHIN ETSU) Tensioactif émulsionnant siliconé 0,60 0,60 0,60 0,60 0,60 0,00 CETYL PEG / PPG-10 / 1 DIMETHICONE (ABILEM90® -EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT) Tensioactif émulsionnant siliconé 2,90 2,90 2,90 2,90 2,90 0,00 A2 DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE (BENTONE 38 VCG® -ELEMENTIS) 0,70 0,70 0,70 0,70 1,10 0,70 DIMETHICONE 2cst DODECAMETHYLPEN TASILOXANE ‘DM-®FLUID-2CS -SHIN ETSU) huile de silicone volatile non cyclique 9,60 13,80 13,20 9,60 9,60 DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONOL (BRB 1740® - BRB INTERNATIONAL) 3,10 3,10 3,10 3,10 3,10 3,10 PROPYLENE CARBONATE 0,20 0,20 0,20 0,20 0,20 0,20 A3 SILICA SILYLATE (VM-2260® - DOW CORNING) Aerogel de silice hydrophobe 0,40 0,40 0,40 0,40 0,00 0,40 ALUMINUM STARCH OCTENYLSUCCINATE (DRY FLO PLUS® -AKZO NOBEL) 2,00 2,00 2,00 2,00 2,00 2,00 ISODODECANE 8,50 14,50 14,50 8,50 8,50 B MAGNESIUM SULFATE 0,70 0,70 0,70 0,70 0,70 0,70 SORBITOL 5,00 5,00 5,00 5,00 5,00 5,00 PHENOXYETHANOL 0,70 0,70 0,70 0,70 0,70 0,70 CELLULOSE GUM (BLANOSE CMC 7M8SF® - ASHLAND) 0,50 0,50 0,50 0,50 0,50 0,50 ALCOHOL 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 WATER 35,61 35,61 35,61 35,61 35,61 35,61 GLYCERIN 2,00 2,00 2,00 2,00 2,00 2,00 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0,30 0,30 0,30 0,30 0,30 0,30 c IRON OXIDES CI 77491 (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE (NAI-C33-8001-10® -MIYOSI KASEI) 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 IRON OXIDES CI77499 (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE (NALC33-7001-10® -MIYOSI KASEI) 0.09 0.09 0.09 0.09 0.09 0.09 IRON OXIDES CI77492 (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE (NALC33-9001-10® -MIYOSI KASEI) 0.85 0.85 0.85 0.85 0.85 0.85 SYNTHETIC FLUOR-PHLOGOPITE (SYNAFIL S 1050 -ECKART) 1.22 1.22 1.22 1.22 1.22 1.22 TITANIUM DIOXIDE CI 77891 (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE (NALWHITE A® -MIYOSI KASEI) 9.87 9.87 9.87 9.87 9.87 9.87 (*) excluding invention Preparation of the compositions

[0226] The components of phase Al were weighed and the mixture was stirred at 85°C to obtain a homogeneous phase, then cooled to 65°C.

[0227] Then the components of A2 were weighed and introduced into Al, and the whole was cooled to 30°C. The components of A3 were then added,

[0228] The previously prepared aqueous phase B was emulsified in phase A with stirring for 20 minutes at 2500 rpm.

[0229] To prepare C, the pigments were ground in an air jet mill with 11.1% of their weight in synthetic fluorphlogopite. Then C was introduced into the A+B emulsion with stirring for 10 minutes at 1500 rpm.

[0230] Unlike Example 1 according to the invention, Example 6 outside the invention with a non-silicone emulsifying surfactant showed a surface phase shift which appeared after 1 month at room temperature, which was accentuated when the emulsion was stored at a higher temperature, for example, at 37°C.

[0231] A panel of 14 people tested the foundations, on the face, with a quantity of 0.075 ml of each example.

[0232] The following cosmetic criteria were rated on a scale of 0 to 15. The higher the rating, the greater the cosmetic effect.

[0233] The results obtained are shown in the following table.

[0234] [Tables2] Evaluated criteria example 1 according to the invention example 2 comparative example 3 comparative example 4 comparative example 5 comparative Ease of spreading during application 11 8 14 6 14 Speed of drying 7 2 3 12 1 Powdery dry skin effect 2 minutes after application 9 6 3 4 6 Oily skin 2 minutes after application 6 14 10 7 9 Slippery skin 2 minutes after application 9 10 6 5 13 Soft skin 2 minutes after application 12 9 6 6 13 Film present 2 minutes after application 9 12 14 13 7 Homogeneity of the makeup result 13 12 13 10 10

[0235] Example 1 according to the invention presented a good compromise of all the cosmetic criteria tested, unlike: - example 2 outside the invention not containing volatile alkane (Isododecane) which was considered to take too long to dry, leaving a relatively oily film on the skin after drying; - example 3 outside the invention not containing non-cyclic volatile silicone oil (DIMETHICONE 2 est) produced a film that was not very soft, not very slippery and did not leave a dry, powdery sensation; - example 4 outside the invention not containing C15-19 Alkane produced a film that was not very soft, not very slippery, a less homogeneous makeup result, not leaving a dry powdery sensation; - example 5 outside the invention not containing hydrophobic silica aerogel SILICA SILYLATE was judged to take too long to dry, with a passable dry powdery sensation and a less uniform makeup result.

Claims

Claims

1. Composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) at least one continuous oily phase comprising (i) at least one volatile alkane and (ii) at least one non-volatile mixture of C15-C19 alkanes; and (ii) at least one volatile non-cyclic silicone oil, and b) at least one aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase c) at least hydrophobic silica aerogel particles; and d) at least one silicone emulsifying surfactant with HLB < 8.0; said composition not containing any cyclic volatile silicone oil or microplastic filler.

2. Composition according to claim 1, comprising the oily phase in a content varying from 25 to 85%, in particular from 30 to 50%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the volatile alkane is isododecane.

4. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the volatile alkane or alkanes are present in an amount ranging from 3 to 14% by weight, in particular from 5 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the mixture (ii) of C15-C19 alkanes is present at contents ranging from 6 to 13% by weight, preferably from 8 to 11% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, where the non-cyclic volatile silicone oil is chosen from: - octamethyltrisiloxane, - decamethyltetrasiloxane, - dodecamethylpentasiloxane - mixtures thereof, and more particularly dodecamethylpentasiloxane.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the non-cyclic volatile silicone oil(s) is (are) present at contents ranging from 4 to 15% by weight, preferably from 7 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the oily phase additionally comprises at least one non-volatile silicone oil.

9. Composition according to claim 8, where the non-volatile silicone oil or oils is (are) present in an amount varying from 4 to 15% by weight, in particular from 7 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising water in a content varying from 20 to 50% by weight, and even more preferably from 30 to 48% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface-modified by trimethylsilyl groups, preferably with the INCI name SILICA SILYLATE.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the silica aerogel particles are present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 1.3%, preferably in a content ranging from 0.1 to 1% by weight, in particular ranging from 0.1 to 0.6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, where the silicone emulsifying surfactant(s) is (are) present at contents ranging from 0.1 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one mixture of silicone emulsifying active surfactants of HLB <8.0 which is a mixture of DIMETHICONE, PEG / PPG-18 / 18 DIMETHICONE and CETYL PEG / PPG-10 / 1 DL METHICONE and more particularly a mixture of DIMETHICONE, PEG / PPG-18 / 18 DIMETHICONE and CETYL PEG / PPG-10 / 1 DL METHICONE and POLYGLYCERYL-4 ISOSTEARATE.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one powdery coloring material.

16. Composition according to claim 15, where the pulverulent coloring matter(s) is (are) present in a content ranging from 1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 5 to 25% by weight and even more particularly from 5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

17. Composition according to claim 15 or 16, where the pulverulent coloring material(s) is (are) chosen from iron oxides, titanium dioxides, and mixtures thereof.

18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one additive chosen from: - active ingredients such as vitamins, for example vitamins A, E, C, B3, adenosine, hyaluronic acid and its salts; - ceramides - inorganic UV filters; - additional coloring materials; - fillers; - hydrophilic gelling agents; - lipophilic gelling agents; - perfumes - preservatives - and mixtures thereof.

19. Cosmetic process for coating, in particular for making up keratin materials, in particular the skin such as the face, hands, eyelids, cheeks, comprising at least the application to said keratin materials of a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims.

Citation Information

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