COMPOSITION SUITABLE FOR KERATINOUS FIBERS

Abstract

COMPOSITION SUITABLE FOR KERATINOUS FIBERS The present invention primarily relates to a composition for keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising: (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides, and mixtures thereof; (b) at least one compound, different from the (a) compound, selected from the group consisting of keto acids, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof; and (c) at least one quat ester. The present invention can improve the straightening of keratinous fibers such as hair based on heating the keratinous fibers with glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof, providing longer-lasting remodeling effects. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: COMPOSITION SUITABLE FOR KERATINOUS FIBERS Technical field

[0001] The present invention mainly relates to a composition which is suitable for remodeling, preferably for smoothing, keratinous fibers such as hair. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] Straightening keratinous fibers, such as hair, by heating the keratinous fibers with an iron is popular to make unruly keratinous fibers easier to style and to make the keratinous fibers less bulky and more attractive. Such a straightening method using a heated iron is convenient for quick styling, but the hairstyle only lasts for a short period of time, for example until the next shampoo. A long-lasting straightening method is required for many consumers.

[0003] Furthermore, conventional permanent straightening processes using a reducing agent and an alkaline agent, as well as an oxidizing agent, with heating, can provide keratinous fibers with a long-lasting hairstyle, but they have several disadvantages such as a long processing time, damage to the keratinous fibers and a bad odor.

[0004] WO 2014 / 131469 discloses a process for straightening keratinous fibers by heating with an iron, without the aid of reducing and oxidizing agents, in which glyoxylic acid is used to straighten the keratinous fibers.

[0005] US-A-2023 / 742 discloses a semi-permanent hair straightening composition including 15% to 20% by weight of glyoxylic acid and 0.1% to 5% by weight of levulinic acid. Cetrimonium chloride is also included in the compositions disclosed in its Examples section. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

[0006] There remains a need to improve the remodeling of keratinous fibers based on a treatment of the keratinous fibers with glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof.

[0007] An objective of the present invention is to provide a composition which is useful for remodeling keratinous fibers such as hair, based on treating the keratinous fibers with glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof, which can provide the keratinous fibers with longer-lasting remodeling effects.

[0008] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition for keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising: a. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides, and mixtures thereof; b. at least one compound, different from (a) compound, selected from the group consisting of ketoacids, their salts, and their mixtures; and c. at least one quat ester.

[0009] The amount of the (a) compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than 15% by weight, preferably less than 14% by weight, and more preferably less than 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0010] The (b) compound may be chosen from levulinic acid, one of its salts and one of its mixtures.

[0011] The amount of the (b) compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 8% by weight or less, and more preferably 6% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0012] The (c) ester quat may be selected from the group consisting of distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate and a mixture thereof.

[0013] The amount of the (c) ester(s) quat(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0014] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (d) water.

[0015] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (e) at least an oil.

[0016] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (f) at least one fatty alcohol.

[0017] The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be 7 or less, preferably 6 or less, and more preferably 5 or less.

[0018] The composition according to the present invention may not comprise any ammonia or thiol compound, or may comprise less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight of ammonia or thiol compound, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0019] The composition according to the present invention may not comprise any reducing agent or oxidizing agent, or may comprise less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight of a reducing agent or an oxidizing agent, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0020] The composition according to the present invention may be intended for the remodeling, preferably the smoothing, of keratinous fibers such as hair.

[0021] The present invention also relates to a process for remodeling, preferably smoothing, keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising the following steps: i. application of the composition according to the present invention to keratinous fibers; ii. optional rinsing of the keratinous fibers with or without drying of the keratinous fibers after rinsing; and iii. remodeling, preferably smoothing, of keratinous fibers, preferably at a temperature above 50°C, more preferably above 100°C, and even more preferably above 150°C.

[0022] The present invention also relates to a kit for remodeling, preferably smoothing, keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising:

[0023] at least one device selected from the group consisting of an iron, a curler, a comb, a dryer and a combination thereof, preferably at least one heating iron, a heating curler, a heating comb or a heating dryer which is capable of providing the keratinous fibers with a temperature above 50°C, preferably above 100°C, and more preferably above 150°C; and

[0024] the composition according to the present invention. Best mode for carrying out the invention

[0025] After diligent research, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a composition which is useful for remodeling keratinous fibers such as hair, based on treating the keratinous fibers with glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof, and which can provide the keratinous fibers with longer-lasting remodeling effects.

[0026] Thus, the present invention mainly relates to a composition for keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising: a. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides, and mixtures thereof; b. at least one compound, different from (a) compound, selected from the group consisting of ketoacids, their salts, and their mixtures; and c. at least one quat ester.

[0027] The present invention can improve the remodeling of keratinous fibers such as hair, based on treatment of the keratinous fibers with glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof, providing longer lasting remodeling effects.

[0028] Reshaping of keratinous fibers, such as hair, herein includes straightening or curling the keratinous fibers.

[0029] The present invention can provide keratinous fibers such as hair with longer-lasting remodeling effects. In particular, the present invention can further maintain the straightened or curled shape of keratinous fibers, or can prevent or reduce loss of the straightened or curled shape of keratinous fibers over time.

[0030] For example, if keratinous fibers are originally wavy, the present invention may provide better prevention against the keratinous fibers returning to their original wavy shape, after straightening the keratinous fibers, particularly after shampooing.

[0031] The present invention can also provide keratinous fibers with sufficient immediate remodeling effects. For example, keratinous fibers treated with the present invention for straightening may exhibit less volume or less frizz due to the reduction of curls of the keratinous fibers. The remodeling effects provided by the present invention can last for a long time, for example, even after shampooing the keratinous fibers. Thus, the present invention can also provide a shape of keratinous fibers with good shampoo resistance.

[0032] The present invention can cause less damage to keratinous fibers compared to conventional permanent remodeling processes because the present invention does not need to use reducing / oxidizing agents. Therefore, it can be easy to comb the keratinous fibers treated by the present invention. Thus, the keratinous fibers treated with the present invention can be easy to style. Also, the keratinous fibers treated by the present invention can be stronger than those treated by conventional permanent remodeling technologies.

[0033] In addition, the present invention can use little or no ammonia or thiol compound, and therefore, the odor during use of the present invention can be reduced compared to conventional processes that require the use of ammonia or a thiol compound. In addition, the present invention can exhibit good ease of use, for example, a short processing time.

[0034] The present invention will be described in detail below. [Composition]

[0035] The composition according to the present invention comprises:

[0036] (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides, and mixtures thereof;

[0037] (b) at least one compound, different from (a) compound, selected from the group consisting of in ketoacids, their salts, and their mixtures; and

[0038] (c) at least one quat ester.

[0039] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is a cosmetic composition, more preferably a cosmetic composition for the remodeling of keratinous fibers, and even more preferably a cosmetic composition for the remodeling of keratinous fibers in a single step. It is particularly preferable that the keratinous fibers are hair.

[0040] (Glyoxylic acid and its derivatives)

[0041] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof.

[0042] A single type of (a) compound may be used, or two or more different types of (a) compounds may be used in combination.

[0043] The (a) compound is selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof. In other words, the (a) compound is selected from glyoxylic acid and its derivatives.

[0044] Examples of glyoxylic acid solvates that may be mentioned include glyoxylic acid hydrates such as glyoxylic acid monohydrate.

[0045] Examples of salts of glyoxylic acid that may be mentioned are alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts of glyoxylic acid such as sodium or potassium glyoxylate, and magnesium or calcium glyoxylate.

[0046] Examples of glyoxylic acid esters that may be mentioned are glyoxylic acid alkyl esters such as methyl glyoxylate and ethyl glyoxylate.

[0047] Examples of glyoxylic acid amides that may be mentioned include N-glyoxyloylcarbocysteine and N-glyoxyloyl keratin amino acids.

[0048] It is preferable to use glyoxylic acid as (a) compound.

[0049] The amount of the (a) compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0050] The amount of the (a) compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than 15% by weight, preferably less than 14% by weight, and more preferably less than 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0051] Thus, the amount of the (a) compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to less than 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to less than 14% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to less than 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0052] In one embodiment, the amount of the (a) compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 12% by weight or less, preferably 11% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0053] Thus, in this embodiment, the amount of the (a) compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 12% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 11% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0054] (Ketoacid)

[0055] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one compound, different from the (a) compound, selected from ketoacids, their salts, and their mixtures. Two or more (b) compounds may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of (b) compound or a combination of different types of (b) compounds may be used.

[0056] The keto acids may be chosen from α-keto acids, β-keto acids, γ-keto acids and mixtures thereof.

[0057] The α-keto acids may be compounds represented by the general formula (I):

[0058] R1-C(=O)-COOH (I)

[0059] in which

[0060] R1 denotes a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, optionally substituted by OH, COOH or a halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom.

[0061] Examples of α-keto acids include pyruvic acid.

[0062] The [3-keto acids] can be represented by the general formula (II):

[0063] R2-C(=O)-R3-COOH (II)

[0064] in which • R2 denotes a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, optionally substituted by OH, COOH or a halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom; and • R3 denotes a methylene group, optionally substituted by a halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom.

[0065] Examples of [3-keto acids] include acetoacetic acid.

[0066] γ-keto acids can be represented by the general formula (III):

[0067] R2-C(=O)-R4-COOH (III)

[0068] in which • R2 denotes a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, optionally substituted by OH, COOH or a halogen atom such as a chlorine atom or bromine; and • R4 denotes an ethylene group, optionally substituted by a halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom.

[0069] Examples of γ-ketoacids include levulinic acid.

[0070] The ketoacid salts may be alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts of ketoacid such as sodium or potassium salts of ketoacid, and magnesium or calcium salts of ketoacid.

[0071] It is preferable to use, as the (b) compound(s), γ-ketoacid, and more preferably, levulinic acid and / or one of its salts such as sodium levulinate.

[0072] The amount of the (b) compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0073] The amount of the (b) compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 8% by weight or less, and more preferably 6% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0074] Thus, the amount of the (b) compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 8% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0075] In one embodiment, the amount of the (b) compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 4% by weight or less, and more preferably 3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0076] Thus, the amount of the (b) compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 4% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0077] In another embodiment, the (b) compound(s) may be present in a lower amount than the (a) compound(s), in the composition according to the present invention. For example, the weight ratio between the amount of the (a) compound(s) and the (b) compound(s) included in the composition according to the present invention may range from 1:1 to 15:1, preferably from 1:1 to 10:1, and more preferably from 1:1 to 4:1.

[0078] (Ester Quat)

[0079] The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one quat ester. Two or more ester quats may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of ester quat or a combination of different types of ester quats may be used.

[0080] The term "ester quat" herein refers to a chemical compound comprising both at least one quaternary nitrogen atom and at least one ester bond in its cationic portion. Preferably, this refers to a class of surface-active quaternary ammonium compounds having the general formula R*R2R3R4N+A , wherein at least one, preferably two, groups, preferably hydrocarbon groups, R1 to R4 has 6 or more carbon atoms, preferably 8 or more carbon atoms, and more preferably 10 or more carbon atoms, and at least one ester bond such as -C(=O)-O- and -OC(=O)-, and A denotes any anionic counterion.

[0081] It is preferable that the (c) ester quat is selected from diester quats which have a quaternary nitrogen atom and two groups, preferably two hydrocarbon groups, wherein each of the groups has 6 or more carbon atoms, preferably 8 or more carbon atoms, and more preferably 10 or more carbon atoms, and at least one ester bond, preferably one ester bond, as mentioned above. It is more preferable that, in the diester quats, the oxygen atom of the ester bond is bonded to the quaternary nitrogen atom via a C 1-3 alkyl group such as an ethyl group.

[0082] In one embodiment of the present invention, the (c) ester quat may be represented by the following general formula (1):

[0083] RW-O-CH2CH2-N+(R3)2-CH2CH2-O-OCR2 A (1)

[0084] in which • each of R'CO and OCR2 independently denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, acyl group having 10 to 28 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably 14 to 20 carbon atoms, • R3 independently denotes a C, 4 alkyl group such as a methyl group, or a C, 4 hydroxyalkyl group such as a hydroxyethyl group (-CH2CH2OH), and • A is a counterion.

[0085] In a preferable embodiment, the radicals R1 and R2 in formula (1) are each independently linear alkyl groups having 9 to 27 carbon atoms, preferably 11 to 23 carbon atoms, and more preferably 13 to 19 carbon atoms.

[0086] In formula (1), the counterion A- may be chosen from chloride, bromide, methosulfate MeSO4 (where Me is methyl, CH3), tosylate, phosphate, sulfate, hydrogen sulfate, lactate and citrate, more preferably from chloride and methosulfate MeSO4. The counterion A- may in particular be chloride.

[0087] In a more preferred embodiment, in formula (1) above, R'CO and OCR2 may be derived from • (la) octadecanoic acid: this gives, for example, distea-roylethyl dimonium chloride, • (1b) eicosanoic acid: this gives, for example, dieico- chloride soylethyl dimonium, • (the) docosanoic acid: this gives, for example, didoco-soylethyl dimonium chloride, • (Id) tetracosanoic acid: this gives, for example, ditetra-cosoylethyl dimonium chloride, • (le) oleic acid: this gives, for example, di-oleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, • (If) C20-22 fatty acid: this gives, for example, dibehenoylethyl dimonium chloride, • (1g) C18-22 fatty acid: this gives, for example, stearyl chloride roylethyl behenoylethyl dimonium or distearoylethyl dimonium chloride or distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and • (Ih) C16-22 fatty acid: this gives, for example, dipalmitoylethyl dimonium chloride or dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate.

[0088] Preferably, the (c) ester quat is selected from the group consisting of distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dibehenoylethyl dimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyl dimonium chloride and a mixture thereof.

[0089] It is particularly preferable that the (c) ester quat is selected from the group consisting of distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and a mixture thereof. As distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, Varisoft EQ 65 MB, marketed by Evonik, can be used. As dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, Varisoft EQ 90, marketed by Evonik, can be used.

[0090] The amount of the (c) ester(s) quat(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0091] The amount of the (c) ester(s) quat(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0092] Thus, the amount of the (c) ester(s) quat(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0093] (Water)

[0094] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (d) water.

[0095] Thus, if the composition according to the present invention comprises (d) water, the composition according to the present invention is not anhydrous.

[0096] The amount of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or more, preferably 30% by weight or more, and more preferably 40% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0097] Furthermore, the amount of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 95% by weight or less, preferably 90% by weight or less, and more preferably 85% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0098] The amount of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may be from 20% to 95% by weight, preferably from 30% to 90% by weight, and more preferably from 40% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0099] (Oil)

[0100] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (e) at least one oil. Two or more oils may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of oil or a combination of different types of oils may be used.

[0101] Herein, "oil" means a fatty compound or a fatty substance which is in the form of a liquid, a paste or a solid at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oil(s), those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0102] The (e) oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil or the like; a polar oil such as an oil of vegetable or animal origin and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.

[0103] The (e) oil may be chosen from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils.

[0104] Examples of oils of plant origin include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, jojoba esters, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0105] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.

[0106] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

[0107] Preferably, for the monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

[0108] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.

[0109] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C4-C26 non-sugar dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

[0110] Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol dii-sononanoate.

[0111] As ester oils, esters and diesters of sugars of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids may be used. It is recalled that the term "sugar" designates compounds based on oxygen-bearing hydrocarbons containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

[0112] Examples of suitable sugars which may be cited include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose and their derivatives, in particular alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0113] The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched, saturated or C6-C30, and preferably C12-C22, fatty acids. unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0114] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters and their mixtures.

[0115] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

[0116] More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, and in particular monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

[0117] An example that can be cited is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0118] Examples of preferable ester oils include, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, stearate isocetyl, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

[0119] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).

[0120] Examples of silicone oils include, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.

[0121] Preferably, the silicone oils are chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

[0122] These silicone oils may also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones which may be used in accordance with the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or several organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.

[0123] Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968) by Walter Noll, Academie Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0124] When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from: i. cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of formula:

[0125] Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,r-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; i. linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of 5x106 m2 / s or less at 25 °C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25 °C according to ASTM 445 Appendix C.

[0126] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may mainly be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.

[0127] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be mentioned, without limitation: • Silbione® oils from the 47 and 70 047 ranges or Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000; • oils from the Mirasil® range sold by the company Rhodia; Dow Corning's 200 series oils, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm2 / s; General Electric Viscasil® oils and certain General Electric SF range oils (SF 96, SF 18).

[0128] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 range from the company Rhodia.

[0129] Among the silicones containing aryl groups are polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes. Examples that may be cited include products sold under the following names: Silbione® oils from the 70 641 range from Rhodia; oils from the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 ranges from Rhodia; Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid; Bayer's PK range of silicones, such as PK20; some General Electric's SF range of oils, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

[0130] Organomodified liquid silicones may in particular contain poly-ethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Examples include KF-6017 silicone offered by Shin-Etsu, and Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from Union Carbide.

[0131] The hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from: linear or branched, optionally cyclic, C6-C16 lower alkanes. Examples that may be cited include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins, e.g., isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; and linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam® and squalane.

[0132] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, and decene / butene copolymers; and mixtures thereof.

[0133] It is preferable that the (e) oil is chosen from polar oils, more preferably ester oils, and even more preferably monoester oils.

[0134] The amount of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0135] Furthermore, the quantity of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 40% by weight or less, preferably 30% by weight or less, and more preferably 20% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0136] The amount of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 3% to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0137] (Fatty alcohol)

[0138] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (f) at least one fatty alcohol. A single type of fatty alcohol may be used, or two or more different types of fatty alcohols may be used in combination.

[0139] The term "fatty" herein means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols that have 6 or more carbon atoms, preferably 8 or more, and more preferably 10 or more, are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. The fatty alcohol may be saturated or unsaturated. The fatty alcohol may be linear or branched. Two or more fatty alcohols may be used in combination.

[0140] The (f) fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R is chosen from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, for example from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R is chosen from C12-C24 alkyl and C12-C24 alkenyl groups. R may be substituted or not by at least one hydroxyl group.

[0141] Non-limiting examples of the (f) fatty alcohols that may be cited include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and a mixture thereof.

[0142] Examples of suitable fatty alcohols include, but are not limited to, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0143] Fatty alcohol may represent a mixture of fatty alcohols, meaning that several species of fatty alcohol may coexist, as a mixture, in a commercial product.

[0144] According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is chosen from a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol (cetearyl alcohol).

[0145] It is preferable that the (f) fatty alcohol is selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol.

[0146] The quantity of the fatty alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0147] Furthermore, the amount of the fatty alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0148] The amount of the fatty alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0149] (Non-ionic surfactant)

[0150] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (g) at least one nonionic surfactant. A single type of nonionic surfactant may be used, or two or more different types of nonionic surfactants may be used in combination.

[0151] Non-ionic surfactants are compounds well known per se (see, for example, in this regard, "Handbook of Surfactants" by M.R. Porter, Blackie & Son publishers (Glasgow and London), 1991, pages 116-178). Thus, they may, for example, be chosen from alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols and fatty acid esters, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, knowing that the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups may range from 2 to 50, and that the number of glycerol groups may range from 1 to 30. Maltose derivatives may also be mentioned.Mention may also be made, in a non-limiting manner, of copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides comprising, for example, from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising, for example, from 1.5 to 5 glycerol groups, such as from 1.5 to 4; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan comprising from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; ethoxylated oils of plant origin; fatty acid esters of sucrose; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; mono or diesters of polyethoxylated fatty acids of (C6-C24)alkylpolyglycosides of glycerol; N-(C6-C24)alkylglucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-C14)alkylamine oxides or N-(C10-C14)acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides; silicone surfactants; and mixtures thereof.

[0152] The non-ionic surfactants may preferably be chosen from monooxyalkylenated, polyoxyalkylenated, monoglycerolated or poly- non-ionic surfactants. glycerolated. The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, and are preferably oxyethylene units.

[0153] Examples of monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants that may be cited include:

[0154] monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated (C8-C24)alkylphenols,

[0155] saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated C8-C30 alcohols,

[0156] saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated C8-C30 amides,

[0157] polyoxyethylenated esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C30 acids and of monoalkylene glycol or polyalkylene glycols,

[0158] monooxyalkylated or polyoxyalkylated esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C30 acids and of sorbitol,

[0159] saturated or unsaturated, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated vegetable oils, and

[0160] condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide, among others, alone or in mixture.

[0161] The surfactants preferably contain a number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide between 1 and 100, preferably between 1 and 50, and more preferably between 1 and 20.

[0162] According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, the monooxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants may be chosen from monooxyethylenated fatty alcohol (ethylene glycol ether of fatty alcohol), monooxyethylenated fatty ester (ethylene glycol ester of fatty acid), and mixtures thereof.

[0163] Examples of monooxyalkylenated fatty esters that may be cited include glycol distearate.

[0164] According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, the polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants may be chosen from polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol (ether of polyethylene glycol and fatty alcohol), polyoxyethylenated fatty ester (ester of polyethylene glycol and fatty acid), and mixtures thereof.

[0165] Examples of polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols (or C8-C30 alcohols) which may be cited include adducts of ethylene oxide with lauryl alcohol, in particular those containing from 2 to 20 oxyethylene units and more particularly those containing from 2 to 10 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Laureth-2 to Laureth-20); adducts of ethylene oxide with behenyl alcohol, in particular those containing from 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Beheneth-2 to Beheneth-20); adducts of ethylene oxide with cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), in particular those containing from 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Ceteareth-2 to Ceteareth-20); adducts of ethylene oxide with cetyl alcohol, in particular those containing from 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Ceteth-2 to Ceteth-20); adducts of ethylene oxide with stearyl alcohol, in particular those containing from 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Steareth-2 to Steareth-20); adducts of ethylene oxide with isostearyl alcohol, in particular those containing from 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Isosteareth-2 to Isosteareth-20) and mixtures thereof.

[0166] Examples of unsaturated polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols (or C8-C30 alcohols) that may be cited include adducts of ethylene oxide with oleyl alcohol, in particular those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene units and more particularly those containing 2 to 10 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Oleth-2 to Oleth-20); and mixtures thereof.

[0167] It is preferable that the (g) non-ionic surfactant is chosen from monooxyalkylenated, polyoxyalkylenated non-ionic surfactants, more preferably polyoxyalkylenated non-ionic surfactants, and even more preferably polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols.

[0168] The amount of the (g) non-ionic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0169] Furthermore, the amount of the (g) non-ionic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0170] The amount of the (g) non-ionic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0171] (pH)

[0172] The composition according to the present invention may have a pH of 7 or less, preferably 6 or less, and more preferably 5 or less, which is measured at 25°C.

[0173] The composition according to the present invention may have a pH of 2.8 or higher, which is measured at 25°C.

[0174] The composition according to the present invention may have a pH of 2.8 to 7, preferably of 3.0 to 6, and more preferably of 3.2 to 5, which is measured at 25°C.

[0175] (Alkaline agent)

[0176] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one agent alkaline. Two or more alkaline agents can be used in combination. Thus, a single type of alkaline agent or a combination of different types of alkaline agents can be used.

[0177] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention includes an alkaline agent(s), if the (a) compound or the (b) compound can serve to reduce the pH of the composition.

[0178] The alkaline agent may be an inorganic alkaline agent. It is preferable that the alkaline agent be non-volatile. It is preferable that the inorganic alkaline agent be selected from the group consisting of alkali metal hydroxides; alkaline earth metal hydroxides; and alkali metal phosphates and monohydrogen phosphates such as sodium phosphate or sodium monohydrogen phosphate.

[0179] Examples of the inorganic alkali metal hydroxides include sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, and potassium hydroxide. Examples of the alkaline earth metal hydroxides include calcium hydroxide and magnesium hydroxide. As the inorganic alkali agent, sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide are preferable.

[0180] The alkaline agent may be an organic alkaline agent. It is preferable that the organic alkaline agent is selected from the group consisting of monoamines and diamines.

[0181] Examples of monoamines include alkanolamines such as mono-, di-, and triethanolamine, comprising 1 to 3 hydroxyalkyl groups (C1-C4). In particular, the alkanolamines may be chosen from monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, and tris(hydroxymethylamino)methane.

[0182] Diamines can be described by the structure (B) below: FC R. <B) N. / NW-N / X Rs Rd

[0183] wherein W denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally substituted by a hydroxyl or C1-C4 alkyl radical, and Ra, Rb, Rc and Rd independently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical, an example of which may be 1,3-propanediamine and its derivatives.

[0184] The amount of the alkaline agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0185] Furthermore, the amount of the alkaline agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0186] Thus, the amount of the alkaline agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0187] (Acid)

[0188] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one acid which is different from the (a) compound or the (b) compound. Two or more acids may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of acid or a combination of different types of acids may be used.

[0189] The acid may be used to correct the pH of the composition according to the present invention.

[0190] As acid, mention may be made of all inorganic or organic acids which are commonly used in cosmetic products, such as citric acid, lactic acid, sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid or hydrochloric acid (HCl).

[0191] The amount of the acid or acids in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0192] Furthermore, the amount of the acid or acids in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0193] Thus, the amount of the acid or acids in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0194] (Other optional ingredients)

[0195] The composition according to the present invention may also comprise at least one other optional ingredient, chosen in particular from: anionic and amphoteric surfactants; thickeners; sunscreens; moisturizers; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidants; antibacterial agents such as benzoic acid; preservatives such as phenoxyethanol; chelating agents; pearlescent agents and opacifiers; plasticizers or coalescers; fillers; emulsifiers; polymers, particularly conditioning polymers, such as cationic polymers; and perfumes. The composition may, of course, include several cosmetic ingredients from the list above.

[0196] The composition according to the present invention may include one or more cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, which may be alcohols: in particular monovalent alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol; diols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and caprylyl glycol; other polyols such as glycerol; and ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers and butylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers.

[0197] Depending on their nature and the purpose of the composition, the above optional ingredient(s) may be present in normal amounts which can be easily determined by a person skilled in the art and which may be, for each ingredient, between 0.01% and 80% by weight. A person skilled in the art will take care to choose the ingredients included in the composition, as well as their amounts, so that they do not harm the properties of the compositions used for the present invention.

[0198] (Ammonia and thiol compound)

[0199] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is free of ammonia or thiol compound. The expression "free of ammonia or thiol compound" means that the composition according to the present invention does not include a substantial amount of ammonia or thiol compound. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention includes 1% by weight or less, more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, and even more preferably 0.1% by weight or less of ammonia or thiol compound, in particular no ammonia or thiol compound.

[0200] Due to the very small amount or absence of ammonia and / or thiol compound, the bad odor during use of the composition according to the present invention can be reduced or prevented.

[0201] The thiol compound herein refers to a compound which has at least one thiol group (-SH).

[0202] The thiol compound may be a reducing agent. The thiol reducing agent may be selected from the group consisting of thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, in particular its esters such as glycerol or glycol monothioglycolate; thiolactic acid and its derivatives, in particular its esters such as glycerol monothiolactate; 3-mercaptopropionic acid and its derivatives, in particular its esters such as glycerol 3-mercaptopropionate and ethylene glycol 3-mercaptopropionate; cysteamine and its derivatives, in particular its C1-C4 acyl derivatives such as N- acetylcysteamine and N-propionylcysteamine; mono-thioglycerol and its derivatives, in particular its esters; cysteine and its derivatives, in particular its esters such as N-acetylcysteine, N-alkanoylcysteine and cysteine alkyl esters; thioglycerin and its derivatives, in particular its s-alkyl derivatives; and its salts.

[0203] As the above salts, there may be mentioned, for example, ammonium salts; primary, secondary or tertiary amine salts; alkali metal salts and alkaline earth metal salts. As the primary, secondary or tertiary amine, for example, there may be mentioned monoethanolamine, di-isopropanolamine or triethanolamine, respectively.

[0204] Other examples of thiol reducing agent include, but are not limited to, N-mercapto alkyl sugar amides such as N-(mercapto-2-ethyl)gluconamide, [3-mercaptopropionic acid and its derivatives; thiomalic acid; panthetine; N-(mercaptoalkyl)co-hydroxyalkyl amides such as those described in European Patent Application No. 0 354 835 and N-mono- or N,N-dialkylmercapto 4-butyramides such as those described in European Patent Application No. 0 368 763; aminomer-captoalkyl amides such as those described in European patent application No. 0 432 000 and alkylaminomercaptoalkylamides such as those described in European patent application No. 0 514 282; 2-hydroxypropyl thioglycolate (2 / 3) and the mixture based on 2-hydroxymethylethyl thioglycolate (67 / 33) described in French patent application No. 2 679 448.

[0205] (Reducing agent and oxidizing agent)

[0206] The composition according to the present invention may comprise a reducing agent; however, it is preferable that the composition according to the present invention comprises a reduced amount of reducing agent or oxidizing agent, preferably being free of reducing agent or oxidizing agent.

[0207] The expression "free of reducing agent or oxidizing agent" means that the composition according to the present invention does not include a substantial amount of reducing agent or oxidizing agent. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention includes 1% by weight or less, more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, and even more preferably 0.1% by weight or less of a reducing agent or an oxidizing agent, in particular no reducing agent or no oxidizing agent.

[0208] The reducing agent may be a thiol reducing agent or a non-thiol reducing agent. The thiol reducing agent is as described above.

[0209] The non-thiol reducing agent herein refers to a reducing agent without a thiol group. The non-thiol reducing agent may be selected from the group consisting of sulfites, bisulfites, sulfinates, phosphines, sugars, reductones and hydrides. The non-thiol reducing agent may be selected from ammonium sulfites and bisulfites, as well as metal sulfites and bisulfites, more preferably from metal sulfites and bisulfites. alkali or alkaline earth metal and more preferably among sodium sulfites and bisulfites.

[0210] The oxidizing agent may be selected from hydrogen peroxide, alkali metal bromates, ferricyanides, peroxygen salts, and compounds capable of producing hydrogen peroxide by hydrolysis. For example, the oxidizing agent may be selected from an aqueous solution of hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, and persalts such as perborates and persulfates.

[0211] (Shape)

[0212] The compositions used for the present invention may be in any form suitable for topical application, and in particular in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or alcoholic-aqueous or oily solution or suspension; a solution or dispersion of the lotion or serum type; an emulsion, in particular of liquid or semi-liquid consistency, of the O / W, W / O or multiple type (if the composition according to the present invention includes at least one oil); a suspension or emulsion of soft consistency of the cream (O / W) or (W / O) type; an aqueous gel or any other cosmetic form.

[0213] The compositions used for the present invention may be in any galenic form. For example, the compositions used for the present invention may be in the form of any treatment for hair in general, such as a cream, lotion, gel or the like.

[0214] The composition according to the present invention can be used for the treatment, preferably the remodeling and more preferably the smoothing of keratinous fibers such as hair. [Process]

[0215] The present invention also relates to a process for remodeling, preferably for smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising the following steps: i. application of the composition according to the present invention to keratinous fibers: ii. optional rinsing of the keratinous fibers, with or without drying of the keratinous fibers after rinsing; and iii. remodeling, preferably smoothing of keratinous fibers, preferably at a temperature above 50°C, more preferably above 100°C, and even more preferably above 150°C.

[0216] The details of the composition used in the process according to the present invention are explained in the section entitled [Composition] above.

[0217] The process according to the present invention is intended for the remodeling, preferably for the smoothing, of keratinous fibers, such as hair, more preferably for smoothing for a long period of time and even more preferably, smoothing even after several shampoos. In this sense, the process according to the present invention may be a semi-permanent remodeling, preferably smoothing, process.

[0218] It is preferable to clean the keratinous fibers before step (i). This cleaning step can be carried out, for example, by shampooing the keratinous fibers, then rinsing the keratinous fibers. After rinsing, the keratinous fibers can be dried. It is preferable that the keratinous fibers are wet just before step (i).

[0219] In step (i), the composition according to the present invention, which is explained above, is applied to keratinous fibers such as hair. The application of the composition according to the present invention can be carried out by any means, such as a brush or a comb.

[0220] The bath ratio between the composition applied according to the present invention and the keratinous fibers can range from 0.1 to 10, more particularly from 0.5 to 5, and is preferably between 0.3 and 2. The expression "bath ratio" is intended to designate the weight ratio between the total weight of the composition applied and the total weight of the keratinous fibers.

[0221] It may be possible, after application of the composition according to the present invention, to leave the keratinous fibers as they are for a certain period of time; typically from 1 minute to 1 hour, preferably from 2 to 30 minutes, and more preferably from 3 to 10 minutes, if necessary, in order to allow the composition to penetrate into the keratinous fibers.

[0222] After step (i), the process according to the present invention may comprise the optional step (ii) of rinsing the keratinous fibers with or without drying the keratinous fibers after rinsing.

[0223] Thus, if step (ii) is present, the keratinous fibers are rinsed in order to remove the composition according to the present invention from the keratinous fibers. The rinsing step can be carried out with water. It is preferable that the keratinous fibers are dried after rinsing. The drying of the keratinous fibers can be carried out with a conventional drying means such as a hair dryer.

[0224] Furthermore, if step (ii) is not present, the keratinous fibers can be treated by step (iii) after step (i) without rinsing.

[0225] In step (iii), the keratinous fibers, which are preferably dry, are subjected to remodeling, preferably straightening, preferably at a temperature above 50°C, more preferably above 100°C, and even more preferably above 150°C, with at least one device chosen from the group consisting of an iron, a comb, a heated dryer and one of their combinations, preferably with a combination of a comb and a heated dryer. This temperature can be in lower than 250°C, preferably lower than 240°C, and more preferably lower than 230°C. Thus, this temperature may be higher than 50°C and lower than 250°C, preferably higher than 100°C and lower than 240°C, and more preferably higher than 150°C and lower than 230°C.

[0226] The reshaping may be performed by providing the keratinous fibers with any mechanical force such as mechanical tension. The mechanical tension may be applied to the keratinous fibers by any reshaping means to deform the keratinous fibers into an intended shape. For example, the mechanical power may be provided by at least one reshaping means selected from the group consisting of at least one iron, at least one curler, at least one comb, and a combination thereof. Any conventional iron, curler, or comb may be used as the reshaping means. A dryer that can blow gas such as air may also be used as the reshaping means.

[0227] The reshaping means may comprise at least one heating element. Thus, the reshaping means may be at least one heating iron and / or at least one heating curler and / or at least one heating comb and / or at least one heating dryer which may blow hot gas such as hot air. It may be preferable to use at least one heating iron and / or at least one heating curler.

[0228] As a heating iron, any conventional heating iron can be used. The heating iron may have at least one plate, preferably two plates, which can be heated, for example, by electrical heating. The heated plate(s) can be applied to the keratinous fibers and moved in the direction of the keratinous fibers to straighten them.

[0229] It is preferable that the heating iron has two plates, and that the keratinous fibers are sandwiched between the two plates of the heating iron, wherein at least one of the plates can be heated, and then the two plates are moved in the direction of the keratinous fibers to straighten them.

[0230] It is preferable that the heating iron, in particular a portion thereof in contact with keratinous fibers, such as a heating plate or heating plates, has a temperature greater than 50°C and less than 250°C, more preferably greater than 100°C and less than 240°C, and even more preferably greater than 150°C and less than 230°C.

[0231] Step (iii) may be carried out by one or more passes of the heating iron in the direction of the keratinous fibers. Step (iii) may be controlled not only by the temperature of the heating iron but also by the number of passes of the heating iron.

[0232] The heating time may depend on the temperature of the heating iron, but also on the number of passes of the heating iron. It may be, for example, from 1 second to 10 minutes, and preferably from a few seconds to 5 minutes.

[0233] As a heating curler, any conventional heating curler can be used. If the keratin fibers are wound around a heating curler, this winding can be carried out over the entire length of the keratin fibers or, for example, over half the length of the keratin fibers. Depending, for example, on the desired hairstyle shape and the amount of curls, the winding can be carried out with more or less thick strands.

[0234] It is preferable that the heating coil, in particular a portion thereof in contact with keratinous fibers, such as a heating plate or heating plates, has a temperature greater than 50°C and less than 250°C, more preferably greater than 100°C and less than 240°C, and even more preferably greater than 150°C and less than 230°C.

[0235] Step (iii) may be carried out by holding the keratinous fibers on a heating iron so that mechanical tension is applied to the keratinous fibers. Step (iii) may be controlled not only by the temperature of the heating iron but also by the strength of the mechanical tension.

[0236] The heating time may depend on the temperature of the heating element but also on the strength of the mechanical tension. It may be, for example, from 1 second to 10 minutes, and preferably from a few seconds to 5 minutes.

[0237] If necessary, before step (ii), mechanical tension may be applied to the keratinous fibers as explained above. [Necessary]

[0238] The present invention also relates to a kit for remodeling, preferably smoothing, keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising:

[0239] at least one device selected from the group consisting of an iron, a curler, a comb, a dryer and a combination thereof, preferably at least one heating iron, a heating curler, a heating comb or a heating dryer which is capable of providing the keratinous fibers with a temperature above 50°C, preferably above 100°C, and more preferably above 150°C; and

[0240] the composition according to the present invention.

[0241] Any conventional iron or curler, including any conventional heated iron or curler, may be used as the above iron or curler in the kit according to the present invention.

[0242] The heating element in the kit is not limited as long as it can heat the keratinous fibers to a temperature above 50°C, preferably above 100°C, and more preferably above 150°C. This temperature may be below 250°C, preferably below 240°C, and more preferably below 230°C. Thus, this temperature may be above 50°C and below 250°C, preferably above 100°C and below 240°C, and more preferably- partially above 150°C and below 230°C.

[0243] The hair straightener or curler, as well as the composition, in the kit according to the present invention can be used as explained in the section entitled [Process] above.

[0244] The details of the composition used in the kit according to the present invention are explained in the section entitled [Composition] above. [Use]

[0245] The present invention may relate to a use of (c) at least one quat ester in a composition for remodeling, preferably smoothing, keratinous fibers such as hair, preferably with heating, comprising: a. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides, and mixtures thereof; and b. at least one compound, different from (a) compound, selected from the group consisting of ketoacids, their salts and mixtures thereof

[0246] in order to prolong the remodeling effects for the keratinous fibers treated with the composition, in particular in order to further maintain the straightened shape of the keratinous fibers, or to prevent or reduce waviness of the keratinous fibers.

[0247] The heating is not limited as long as it can heat the keratinous fibers to a temperature above 50°C, preferably above 100°C, and more preferably above 150°C. This temperature may be below 250°C, preferably below 240°C, and more preferably below 230°C. Thus, this temperature may be above 50°C and below 250°C, preferably above 100°C and below 240°C, and more preferably above 150°C and below 230°C.

[0248] The above composition may further comprise (d) water and / or (e) at least one oil and / or (f) at least one fatty alcohol and / or (g) at least one non-ionic surfactant.

[0249] The above explanations regarding the (a) compound, the (b) compound and the (c) ester quat, as well as the (d) water, the (e) oil, the (f) fatty alcohol and the (g) nonionic surfactant, can be applied to those in the above composition used for use according to the present invention.

[0250] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises:

[0251] from 0.1% to less than 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof;

[0252] from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of (b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of levulinic acid, one of its salts and one of its mixtures; and

[0253] from 0.01% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of (c) at least one quat ester selected from the group consisting of distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and a mixture thereof.

[0254] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises:

[0255] from 1% to less than 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof;

[0256] from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of (b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of ketoacids, their salts and their mixtures; and

[0257] from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of (c) at least one quat ester selected from the group consisting of distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and a mixture thereof. EXAMPLES

[0258] The present invention will be described in more detail by means of examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 [Preparation]

[0259] Each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1. The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients are all based on "% by weight" as raw materials.

[0260] [Tables 1] Ex. 1 Ex. Comp. 1 Ex. Comp. 2 Ex. Comp. 3 Cetearyl alcohol 5 5 5 5 Isopropyl myristate 10 10 10 10 Glyoxylic acid (50% by weight of MA) (1) 20 20 20 20 Levulinic acid (60% by weight of MA) (2) 5 5 5 5 Distearoylethyl dimonium chloride (65% by weight of MA) (3) 1 - - - Cetrimonium chloride (25% by weight of MA) (4) - - 2.6 - Steareth-20 - - - 1.5 pH adjuster qs pH 3 qs pH 3 qs pH 3 qs pH 3 Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 Smoothing effects (TO / Tlsh) 5 / 4 5 / 2 5 / 3 5 / 4 Surface (TO / Tlsh) 813 / 1159 765 / 1484 898 / 1334 892 / 1419

[0261] MA: Active ingredient

[0262] (1) sold by the company WEYLCHEM under the name GLYOXO-HIGH PURE 50 (containing 50% active ingredient).

[0263] (2) sold by the company DR STRAETMANS (EVONIK) under the name DERMOSOFT 700 B (containing 60% active ingredient).

[0264] (3) sold by the company EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT under the name VARISOFT EQ 65 MB (containing 65% active ingredient)

[0265] (4) sold by the company BASF under the name DEHYQUART A OR (containing 25% of active ingredient) [Evaluations]

[0266] Each of the above compositions was used to straighten a strand of hair, and then the strand of hair was evaluated, according to the following protocols.

[0267] 1) A strand of natural black Chinese hair, slightly wavy, of a length 27 cm was washed with a SLES shampoo composition shown in Table 2 below. The hair strand was rinsed thoroughly with tap water. faucet.

[0268] [Tables2] % by weight Hexylene glycol 1 Sodium chloride 1 Water qsp 100 Cocobetaine 9 Sodium laureth sulfate (70% by weight) 15 Preservatives 0.7 Polyquaternium-10 0.3

[0269] 2) Each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 has was applied in an amount of 1 g to the wet hair strand.

[0270] 3) The lock of hair was left for 10 minutes at room temperature (25°C).

[0271] 4) The lock of hair was rinsed thoroughly with tap water.

[0272] 5) The lock of hair was dried with a hair dryer (Nobby NB3100, TESCOM DENKI Co., Ltd, Japan) for approximately 90 seconds until dry.

[0273] 6) The lock of hair was subjected to straightening in 3 passes with a straightening iron (ADST Premium DS2, Hakko Limited, Japan) at 180°C, 4 seconds / pass.

[0274] 7) The level of smoothing of the hair strand was visually assessed immediately after step 6 (for the smoothing effect at T0) according to the following criteria.

[0275] 5: Very good

[0276] 4: Good

[0277] 3: Passable

[0278] 2: Bad

[0279] 1: Very bad

[0280] The results are shown to the left of “ / ” in the “Smoothing Effects (TO / Tlsh)” row of Table 1.

[0281] 8) A photo of the hair strand was taken just after step 6, and the surface (expressed as the number of pixels) of the hair strand was determined using free public domain software, Image J. The results are shown to the left of “ / ” in the “Area (TO / Tlsh)” row of Table 1.

[0282] 9) The lock of hair was washed again with the shampoo composition SLS shown in Table 2, thoroughly rinsed with tap water and dried in the hair dryer (for about 90 seconds until dry).

[0283] 10) The level of smoothness and the surface area of the hair strand were assessed at new as above (Tlsh). The results are shown to the right of “ / ” in the “Smoothing Effects (TO / Tlsh)” and “Surface (TO / Tlsh)” rows of Table 1.

[0284] The evaluation results in Table 1 show that the use of an ester quat with a combination of glyoxylic acid and levulinic acid is more effective in maintaining the straightened shape of the hair or reducing the increase in hair volume, which reflects the straightening or waviness of the hair, than the use of only the combination of glyoxylic acid and levulinic acid (Comparative Example 1), the combination of glyoxylic acid, levulinic acid and a cationic surfactant that is not an ester quat (Comparative Example 2) or the combination of glyoxylic acid, levulinic acid and a non-ionic surfactant (Comparative Example 3).

Claims

Claims

1. A composition for keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising: (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides, and mixtures thereof; (b) at least one compound, different from (a) compound, selected from the group consisting of ketoacids, their salts, and mixtures thereof; and (c) at least one quaternary ester.

2. Composition according to claim 1, in which compound (b) is selected from levulinic acid, one of its salts and one of their mixtures.

3. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein the (c) quaternary ester is selected from the group consisting of distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and a mixture thereof.

4. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the composition further comprises (d) water.

5. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the composition further comprises (e) at least one oil.

6. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the composition further comprises (f) at least one fatty alcohol.

7. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the pH of the composition is 7 or less, preferably 6 or less, and more preferably 5 or less.

8. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, for the remodeling, preferably the smoothing, of keratinous fibers, such as hair.

9. A process for remodeling, preferably smoothing, keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising the steps of: (i) applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 to the keratinous fibers; (ii) optionally rinsing the keratinous fibers with or without drying the keratinous fibers after rinsing; and (iii) remodeling, preferably smoothing, the keratinous fibers, preferably at a temperature above 50°C, more preferably above 100°C, and even more preferably above 150°C.

10. Kit for remodeling, preferably smoothing, keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising: at least one device selected from the group consisting of an iron, a curler, a comb, a dryer and one of their combinations, preferably at least one heating iron, a heating curler, a heating comb or a heating dryer which is capable of providing the keratinous fibers with a temperature above 50°C, preferably above 100°C, and more preferably above 150°C; and the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8.