NEW COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS, THEIR PREPARATION PROCESS AND THEIR USE
A powder-based deodorant composition addresses the issues of skin irritation and staining by using natural ingredients, providing a dry and effective odor masking solution.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2024000378
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-01-15
- Publication Date
- 2025-07-18
AI Technical Summary
Existing deodorants contain harmful ingredients like aluminum salts, preservatives, and alcohol, which can cause skin irritation and staining, and they often leave the skin moist and wet, failing to meet consumer preferences for a dry, effective, and safe deodorant solution.
A novel cosmetic composition in powder form, free of water and preservatives, comprising oil, zinc, a powder adhesion agent, antioxidants, prebiotics/probiotics, and deodorant active ingredients, formulated without heating to provide a mattifying effect and avoid skin moisture and staining.
The composition effectively masks odors without wetting the skin, is safe for sensitive skin, and does not stain clothing, offering a dry and comfortable application experience.
Smart Images

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Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: NEW COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS, THEIR PREPARATION PROCESS AND THEIR USE FIELD OF THE INVENTION
[0001] The present invention relates to novel cosmetic compositions, their manufacturing process and their use, in particular as a deodorant. The present invention also relates to a device comprising said novel cosmetic compositions. PREVIOUS ART
[0002] Everyone sweats: this process is essential for the body to function. It helps, for example, to maintain a constant body temperature of 37°C. As a result, when the body temperature rises, the brain, via the nervous system, orders the secretion of sweat by the sweat glands so that the heat is evacuated, and the temperature of the skin and the body drops. In normal times (without sustained physical effort or excessive heat), the body produces about 0.5 L of sweat per day, particularly in the armpits, hands, feet, face and groin, areas where many sweat glands are present.
[0003] In 1888, the American brand "Mum®" is said to have created the first antibacterial deodorant. This product was a zinc oxide-based paste applied under the armpits. Other products followed and were distributed in different ways, including powders, liquids, creams, sticks, squeeze bottles, roll-ons, aerosols and pumps, with different forms becoming more or less popular over time. Among their ingredients, aluminum salts quickly established themselves as an active element until they were called into question (risk of cancer, etc.).
[0004] The same fate has been reserved for preservatives, alcohols, parabens, triclosan, phthalates, silicone, etc., and other disadvantages are listed by consumers regarding the use of modern deodorants. For example, the presence of stains and the nonsense of applying a wet product when a dry skin sensation is sought. BRIEF OVERVIEW
[0005] To meet current needs and provide the ideal deodorant, the inventor has formulated a new cosmetic composition in powder form. Also, one of the primary aims of the invention is to provide this new cosmetic composition in powder form. worm and its cold preparation process (i.e. without heating). Another aim of the invention is to propose its use as a deodorant. Another aim of the invention is to provide a device allowing its application. DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0006] According to a first aspect, the subject of the invention is a pulverulent cosmetic composition consisting of or comprising: • an oil, in oily form; • zinc, in powder form; • a powder adhesion agent, in powder form; • an antioxidant, in powder or liquid form, or in paste form; • a prebiotic, in powder form, and / or a probiotic, in the form of powder; and • a deodorant active ingredient.
[0007] Surprisingly, by formulating the powdery cosmetic composition as described above (cosmetic composition in powder form as described above), which is cold-manufactured and is in particular free of preservatives and / or water, the inventor has developed the ideal deodorant in powder form, effective, with a mattifying effect, and which does not moisten the armpits and does not stain clothing once the product is applied.
[0008] Note that the powdery cosmetic composition as described above is not an antiperspirant and / or antiperspirant composition.
[0009] According to another embodiment, the invention relates to the powdery cosmetic composition as described above, said oil being chosen from: jojoba oil, sweet almond oil, bitter almond oil, argan oil, sesame oil, camellia oil, safflower oil, moringa oil, castor oil, coconut oil, apricot oil, linseed oil, pomegranate oil, grape seed oil, prickly pear oils, marula oil, evening primrose oil, avocado oil, raspberry oil, borage oil, olive oil, neem oil, sunflower oil, walnut oil, hazelnut oil, amla oil, oil plum oil, coffee oil, hemp oil, vanilla macerate, oil powder, fermented oil, mineral oil, hydrogenated oil, mineral and hydrogenated oil, fatty acid ester and mixtures thereof,
[0010] in particular said oil being sunflower oil (Helianthus annuus seed oil).
[0011] According to another embodiment, the invention relates to the powdery cosmetic composition as described above, said oil being sunflower oil (Helianthus annuus seed oil).
[0012] According to another embodiment, the subject of the invention is the pulverulent cosmetic composition as described above, in which the total amount of said oil is from 0.5% to 1.5% (in particular from 0.8% to 1.2%) by mass relative to the total mass of said pulverulent cosmetic composition, and is in particular 1%. In particular, the subject of the invention is the pulverulent cosmetic composition as described above, in which the total amount of said oil is 1% by mass relative to the total mass of said pulverulent cosmetic composition.
[0013] According to another embodiment, the subject of the invention is the powdery cosmetic composition as described above, said zinc being zinc PCA and / or a zinc salt. The invention can therefore use zinc PCA, or a zinc salt (e.g. zinc gluconate, zinc bisglycinate, zinc citrate, zinc sulfate, zinc acetate, zinc pyrophosphate, etc.), or a mixture of zinc PCA and a zinc salt. In particular, the subject of the invention is the powdery cosmetic composition as described above, said zinc being zinc PCA, which is a zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid which is marketed for example under the name Zincidone® sold by Solabia.
[0014] According to another embodiment, the subject of the invention is the pulverulent cosmetic composition as described above, in which the total amount of said zinc is from 0.1% to 1% (in particular from 0.3% to 0.7%) by mass relative to the total mass of said pulverulent cosmetic composition, and is in particular 0.5%. In particular, the subject of the invention is the pulverulent cosmetic composition as described above, in which the total amount of said zinc is 0.5% by mass relative to the total mass of said pulverulent cosmetic composition.
[0015] The expression "powder adhesion agent" designates a support which allows good adhesion of the powders. This is an agent allowing the adhesion of the different constituents and ingredients of the powder, and to modify the rheology of the powdery cosmetic composition of the invention during its use. These are more particularly viscosity modifying additives allowing the texture of the powdery cosmetic composition of the invention to be modified during its use. The powder adhesion agents which can be used in the present invention are in particular carbohydrate-based biopolymers.According to another embodiment, the invention therefore relates to the powdery cosmetic composition as described above, said powder adhesion agent being chosen from: corn starch, acacia powder, maltodextrin powder, tapioca powder, rice powder, rice starch, rice bran extract, arrowroot powder, almond milk powder, oat powder, an oat extract and a mixture thereof.
[0016] in particular said adhesion agent being corn starch and / or maltodextrin powder.
[0017] According to another embodiment, the invention relates to the powdery cosmetic composition as described above, said adhesion agent being corn starch and / or maltodextrin powder. The invention can therefore use corn starch, or maltodextrin powder, or a mixture of corn starch and maltodextrin powder.
[0018] According to another embodiment, the subject of the invention is the powdery cosmetic composition as described above, in which the total amount of said powder adhesion agent is from 55% to 60% (in particular from 57% to 58%) by mass relative to the total mass of said powdery cosmetic composition. In particular, the subject of the invention is the powdery cosmetic composition as described above, in which: • the total quantity of said corn starch is from 55% to 60% (in particular from 57% to 58%) by mass relative to the total mass of said pulverulent cosmetic composition, and is in particular 57.5%; and / or • said probiotic is mixed with one of said powder adhesion agents, in particular maltodextrin powder, the total quantity of said “probiotic / powder adhesion agent” mixture is from 0.1% to 0.5% (in particular from 0.2% to 0.4%) by mass relative to the total mass of said powdery cosmetic composition, and is in particular 0.3%.
[0019] In particular, the invention also relates to the powdery cosmetic composition as described above, in which: • the total quantity of said corn starch is from 55% to 60% (in particular from 57% to 58%) by mass relative to the total mass of said powdery cosmetic composition, and is in particular 57.5%; and • said probiotic is mixed with one of said powder adhesion agents, in particular maltodextrin powder, the total quantity of said “probiotic / powder adhesion agent” mixture is from 0.1% to 0.5% (in particular from 0.2% to 0.4%) by mass relative to the total mass of said powdery cosmetic composition, and is in particular 0.3%.
[0020] The term “antioxidant” designates substances used to prevent the rancidity of said oil, which is caused by the oxidation of vegetable oils and butters in contact with air. This phenomenon is accelerated by light (UV), temperature, contact with pro-oxidant metals (Iron or Copper), the presence of pigments such as chlorophyll or the presence of enzymes (lipases, etc.). Oxidation is easily identifiable because it is responsible for a change in the appearance of the vegetable oil (rancid smell, change in color). There are several methods to determine the oxidative stability of lipids: • Measurement of absorbed oxygen: This method allows the course of oxidation to be monitored simultaneously and the oxidation index of the treated oil to be measured. Absorbed oxygen is measured by volumetric or electrochemical methods. • Oven method or Shaal test: The test consists of oxidizing the fat in a lit oven at 60°C. The detection of oxidation is shown by measuring the peroxide index on samples taken every 4, 8, or 24 hours. This method has the advantage of being close to real storage conditions (case of transparent bottles of oils stored in daylight and at room temperature). • Rancimat Test: This test is widely used to assess the oxidative stability of fats. The TIR specification (Rancimat Test Induction Time, expressed in hours) corresponds to the time during which the fat has resisted oxidative stress. The principle of the test consists of prematurely aging the fats by thermal decomposition at 98°C, under intensive bubbling of air. The organic acids, degradation products of this advanced oxidation, are carried by an air current and collected in a measuring cell filled with distilled water. The induction time is determined by conductimetry and corresponds to the TIR. The Rancimat test offers the advantage of monitoring several samples in parallel, with reduced analysis times.
[0021] Advantageously, the invention relates to a powdery cosmetic composition as described above, said powdery cosmetic composition exhibiting an absence of rancidity of the oil.
[0022] In the invention, the use of said antioxidant does not affect the microbial stability of the powdery cosmetic composition of the invention. It should be noted that as antioxidants, the following may be mentioned: a tocopherol (e.g. vitamin E), a mixture of tocopherols (e.g. Covi-ox® T 90 C sold by BASF), ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and an ascorbic acid derivative (e.g. ascorbyl glucoside). According to another embodiment, the subject of the invention is therefore the powdery cosmetic composition as described above, said antioxidant being chosen from: a tocopherol, a mixture of tocopherols (e.g. Covi-ox® T 90 C), ascorbic acid (vitamin C), an ascorbic acid derivative (e.g. ascorbyl glucoside) and a mixture thereof,
[0023] in particular said antioxidant being a tocopherol, a mixture of tocopherols (eg Covi-ox® T 90 C) or vitamin E.
[0024] According to another embodiment, the invention relates to the composition powdery cosmetic composition as described above, in which the mass percentage of water relative to the total mass of said powdery cosmetic composition is less than or equal to 10%. In particular, the subject of the invention is the powdery cosmetic composition as described above, in which the mass percentage of water relative to the total mass of said powdery cosmetic composition is from 0% to 10%, in particular from 0% to 5%. Given the current context, water has become a rare and precious resource that must be safeguarded at all costs for future generations. Since its presence has no place in a deodorant, the development of the cosmetic composition of the invention in the form of a dry powder has made it possible to achieve this goal.Advantageously, the absence of water in the invention allows it to be manufactured cold, which preserves the active ingredients; to remove preservatives; and also to avoid plastic bottles.
[0025] According to another embodiment, the invention relates to the powdery cosmetic composition as described above, said antioxidant being a tocopherol, a mixture of tocopherols (eg Covi-ox® T 90 C) or vitamin E.
[0026] According to another embodiment, the subject of the invention is the pulverulent cosmetic composition as described above, in which the total amount of said antioxidant is from 0.1% to 1% (in particular from 0.3% to 0.7%) by mass relative to the total mass of said pulverulent cosmetic composition, and is in particular 0.5%. In particular, the subject of the invention is the pulverulent cosmetic composition as described above, in which the total amount of said antioxidant is 0.5% by mass relative to the total mass of said pulverulent cosmetic composition.
[0027] In cosmetics, the term "prebiotic" refers to ingredients that promote the balance of the skin microbiome, the community of microorganisms living on the surface of the skin. They nourish good bacteria, thus strengthening the skin barrier and improving the skin's resistance to external aggressions.
[0028] The term "probiotic" in cosmetics refers to beneficial microorganisms incorporated into products to promote a balanced skin microbiome. They can strengthen the skin barrier, reduce inflammation and improve skin health.
[0029] As mentioned above, the powdery cosmetic composition of the invention comprises a prebiotic, in powder form, and / or a probiotic, in powder form. The invention can therefore use a prebiotic alone, or a probiotic alone, or a mixture of a prebiotic and a probiotic. Advantageously, the subject of the invention is the powdery cosmetic composition as described above comprising a prebiotic, in powder form, and a probiotic, in powder form. That is to say a mixture of a prebiotic and a probiotic, in powder form.
[0030] According to another embodiment, the invention relates to the pulverulent cosmetic composition as described above, said prebiotic being chosen from: the oligosaccharide of α-glucan, rinulin, hydroxypropyltrimonium-inulin and a mixture thereof,
[0031] said α-glucan oligosaccharide being in particular made up of 2 to 50 sugar units (in particular 2 to 30) and more particularly 2 to 10 sugar units.
[0032] According to another embodiment, the invention relates to the pulverulent cosmetic composition as described above, said prebiotic being an oligosaccharide of α-glucan consisting of 2 to 50 sugar units (in particular 2 to 30) and more particularly 2 to 10 sugar units.
[0033] It is specified that by "α-glucan oligosaccharide" (or α-glucan oligosaccharide) is meant an oligosaccharide consisting of a chain of D-glucose units linked together by α-form glycosidic bonds. α-glucan oligosaccharides are synthesized by a transglucosylation reaction catalyzed by enzymes of the glucan-sucrase family. Among the oligosaccharides which can be used and are commercially available, the following may be mentioned: • Bioecolia® (INCI: a-glucan oligosaccharide) from the company Solabia; • Ecoskin® (INCI: Alpha-glucan oligosaccharide, Polymnia sonchifolia root juice, Maltodextrin, Lactobacillus) from the company Solabia; and • Biolin / P (INCI: Inulin (and) Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide) from the company Gobiotics.
[0034] According to another embodiment, the subject of the invention is the pulverulent cosmetic composition as described above, in which the total quantity of said prebiotic is from 0.1% to 1% (in particular from 0.5% to 0.9%) by mass relative to the total mass of said pulverulent cosmetic composition, and is in particular 0.7%.
[0035] According to another embodiment, the subject of the invention is the powdery cosmetic composition as described above, said probiotic being a lactic ferment, in particular said lactic ferment being Lactobacillus plantarum HEAL19 (DSM 15313) and / or Lactobacillus plantarum HEAL99 (DSM 15316). Advantageously, the subject of the invention is the powdery cosmetic composition as described above, said probiotic being Lactobacillus plantarum HEAL19 (DSM 15313) and / or Lactobacillus plantarum HEAL99 (DSM 15316). These probiotics are described in International Application No. PCT / EP2019 / 067007 filed on 06 / 26 / 2019. Note that the invention can use Lactobacillus plantarum HEAL19 (DSM 15313) alone, or Lactobacillus plantarum HEAL99 (DSM 15316) alone, or a mixture "Lactobacillus plantarum HEAL19 (DSM 15313) / Lactobacillus plantarum HEAL99 (DSM 15316)'. For example, the probiotic used is Symreboot® L19 sold by Symrise, Safic Alcan.
[0036] According to another embodiment, the subject of the invention is the powdery cosmetic composition as described above, in which said prebiotic and said probiotic are present.
[0037] The term "deodorant active" refers to ingredients capable of masking unpleasant odors and eliminating the bacteria that cause them. Among them may be mentioned: talc, perlite, alcohol, triclosan, an aluminum salt, sodium bicarbonate, magnesium hydroxide (Mg(OH)2), magnesium carbonate hydroxide (Mg5(CO3)4(OH)2) or even triethyl citrate; some of which are known antibacterials. These are: triclosan, sodium bicarbonate, magnesium hydroxide (Mg(OH)2) and magnesium carbonate hydroxide (Mg5(CO3)4(OH)2). In the invention, a deodorant active may therefore be a non-antibacterial deodorant active, or an antibacterial deodorant active, or a mixture of non-antibacterial deodorant active and antibacterial deodorant active. Advantageously, said non-antibacterial deodorant active ingredient is different from an aluminum salt.
[0038] According to another embodiment, the subject of the invention is the powdery cosmetic composition as described above, in which the total amount of said deodorant active ingredient is from 1% to 55% (in particular from 30% to 40%) by mass relative to the total mass of said powdery cosmetic composition, and is in particular 35.5%. In particular, the subject of the invention is the powdery cosmetic composition as described above, in which the total amount of said deodorant active ingredient is 35.5% by mass relative to the total mass of said powdery cosmetic composition.
[0039] According to another embodiment, the subject of the invention is the powdery cosmetic composition as described above, said deodorant active being an antibacterial deodorant active. In particular, the subject of the invention is the powdery cosmetic composition as described above, said deodorant active being an antibacterial deodorant active, in powder form, chosen from: sodium bicarbonate, magnesium hydroxide (Mg(OH)2), magnesium carbonate hydroxide (Mg5(CO3)4(OH)2) and a mixture thereof. By way of example, the antibacterial used is CareMag® D sold by Azelis / Clariant.
[0040] According to another embodiment, the subject of the invention is the powdery cosmetic composition as described above, in which the total quantity of said antibacterial deodorant active ingredient is from 30% to 40% (in particular from 30% to 35%) by mass relative to the total mass of said powdery cosmetic composition, and is in particular 33.5%. In particular, the subject of the invention is the powdery cosmetic composition as described above, in which the quantity total mass of said antibacterial deodorant active ingredient is 33.5% by mass relative to the total mass of said powdery cosmetic composition.
[0041] According to another embodiment, the subject of the invention is the powdery cosmetic composition as described above, in which said antibacterial deodorant active ingredient is: • sodium bicarbonate, the total quantity of which is from 15% to 20% (in particular from 16% to 18%) by mass relative to the total mass of said powdery cosmetic composition, and is in particular 16.75%; and • a mixture of magnesium hydroxide (Mg(OH)2) and magnesium carbonate hydroxide (Mg5(CO3)4(OH)2) the total quantity of which is from 15% to 20% (in particular from 16% to 18%) by mass relative to the total mass of said powdery cosmetic composition, and is in particular 16.75%.
[0042] In particular, the subject of the invention is the powdery cosmetic composition as described above, in which said antibacterial deodorant active ingredient is: • sodium bicarbonate, the total quantity of which is 16.75% by mass relative to the total mass of said powdery cosmetic composition; and • a mixture of magnesium hydroxide (Mg(OH)2) and magnesium carbonate hydroxide (Mg5(CO3)4(OH)2) the total quantity of which is 16.75% by mass relative to the total mass of said powdered cosmetic composition.
[0043] In view of the above, it is understood that the invention can implement a pulverulent cosmetic composition consisting of or comprising: • an oil, in oily form; • zinc, in powder form; • a powder adhesion agent, in powder form; • an antioxidant, in powder or liquid form, or in paste form; • a prebiotic, in powder form, and / or a probiotic, in the form of powder; and • a deodorant active ingredient (in particular an antibacterial deodorant active ingredient), in the form of powder.
[0044] According to another embodiment, the subject of the invention is the powdery cosmetic composition as described above, said deodorant active being a non-antibacterial deodorant active. In particular, the subject of the invention is the powdery cosmetic composition as described above, said deodorant active being a non-antibacterial deodorant active,
[0045] said non-antibacterial deodorant active being triethyl citrate, or one of its derivatives, which is in oily liquid form. Advantageously, the invention has the following characteristics: object the powdery cosmetic composition as described above, said deodorant active ingredient being a non-antibacterial deodorant active ingredient,
[0046] said non-antibacterial deodorant active ingredient being triethyl citrate which is in oily liquid form. For example, the triethyl citrate used is CITROFOL® AI EXTRA sold by AMI INGREDIENTS (BASF).
[0047] According to another embodiment, the subject of the invention is the powdery cosmetic composition as described above, in which the total amount of said non-antibacterial deodorant active ingredient, in particular said triethyl citrate (eg CITROFOL® AI EXTRA), is from 1% to 15% (in particular from 1% to 10%, very particularly from 1% to 5%) by mass relative to the total mass of said powdery cosmetic composition, and is in particular 2%. In particular, the subject of the invention is the powdery cosmetic composition as described above, in which the total amount of said non-antibacterial deodorant active ingredient, in particular said triethyl citrate (eg CITROFOL® AI EXTRA), is 2% by mass relative to the total mass of said powdery cosmetic composition.
[0048] According to another embodiment, the subject of the invention is the powdery cosmetic composition as described above, said deodorant active being a mixture of an antibacterial deodorant active and a non-antibacterial deodorant active. In particular, the subject of the invention is the powdery cosmetic composition as described above, said deodorant active being a mixture of an antibacterial deodorant active and a non-antibacterial deodorant active,
[0049] said antibacterial deodorant active ingredient, in powder form, being chosen from: sodium bicarbonate, magnesium hydroxide (Mg(OH)2), magnesium carbonate hydroxide (Mg5(CO3)4(OH)2) and a mixture thereof, the total quantity of which is in particular from 30% to 40% (in particular from 30% to 35%) by mass relative to the total mass of said powdery cosmetic composition,
[0050] and said non-antibacterial deodorant active ingredient being triethyl citrate which is in oily liquid form, the total quantity of which is in particular from 1% to 15% (in particular from 1% to 10%, very particularly from 1% to 5%) by mass relative to the total mass of said pulverulent cosmetic composition.
[0051] According to another embodiment, the subject of the invention is the powdery cosmetic composition as described above, said powdery cosmetic composition further comprising another deodorant active ingredient chosen from: • talc, in powder form; • perlite, in powder form; • alcohol, especially ethanol, in liquid form; • triclosan, in powder form; and • an aluminum salt, in particular alum, in powder form.
[0052] According to another embodiment, the invention relates to the powdery cosmetic composition as described above, said powdery cosmetic composition further comprising a perfume (in particular 100% of natural origin) which is in liquid form. By way of example, the invention uses a perfume from the Actiscent® range sold by ROBERTET, and in particular the perfume ACTISCENT® COSMOS FLEUR DE SOIE G 122 12737.
[0053] According to another embodiment, the subject of the invention is the pulverulent cosmetic composition as described above, in which the total amount of said perfume is from 1% to 3% by mass relative to the total mass of said pulverulent cosmetic composition, and is in particular 2%. In particular, the subject of the invention is the pulverulent cosmetic composition as described above, in which the total amount of said perfume is 2% by mass relative to the total mass of said pulverulent cosmetic composition.
[0054] According to another embodiment, the subject of the invention is the powdery cosmetic composition as described above, said powdery cosmetic composition further comprising an apple extract, in powder form, in particular said apple extract being Pyrus malus Fiber. In particular, the subject of the invention is the powdery cosmetic composition as described above, said apple extract being Pyrus malus Fiber. By way of example, the apple extract used is VITACEL® CS 5 APPLE sold by AMI INGREDIENTS (BASF). Surprisingly, by formulating the powdery cosmetic composition as described above with an apple extract, the inventor has developed a naturally flesh-colored deodorant (nude appearance). Advantageously, the powdery cosmetic composition as described above is therefore free of synthetic colorant.
[0055] According to another embodiment, the subject of the invention is the pulverulent cosmetic composition as described above, in which the total amount of said apple extract is from 1% to 5% by mass relative to the total mass of said pulverulent cosmetic composition, and is in particular 2% or 4%. In particular, the subject of the invention is the pulverulent cosmetic composition as described above, in which the total amount of said apple extract is 2% or 4% by mass relative to the total mass of said pulverulent cosmetic composition
[0056] In view of the above, it is understood that according to another embodiment, the invention relates to the powdery cosmetic composition as described above, said powdery cosmetic composition further comprising: • a perfume which is in liquid form; and / or • an apple extract, in powder form, in particular said extract of apple being Pyrus malus Fiber.
[0057] According to another embodiment, the subject of the invention is the powdery cosmetic composition as described above, said powdery cosmetic composition further comprising a sugar, in powder form, in particular said sugar being chosen from: xylitylglucoside, anhydroxylitol, xylitol, glucose, fructose, maltitol, mannitol, galactose, lactose, sucrose and a mixture thereof. In particular, the subject of the invention is the powdery cosmetic composition as described above, said sugar being chosen from: xylitylglucoside, anhydroxylitol, xylitol, glucose, fructose, maltitol, mannitol, galactose, lactose, sucrose and a mixture thereof.
[0058] According to another embodiment, the subject of the invention is the pulverulent cosmetic composition as described above, in which the total quantity of said sugar is from 0.01% to 3% by mass relative to the total mass of said pulverulent cosmetic composition.
[0059] According to another embodiment, the subject of the invention is the powdery cosmetic composition as described above, said powdery cosmetic composition further comprising a mushroom, in powder form, in particular said mushroom (adaptogen) being chosen from: the genus Tremella, reishi, the genus Cordyceps, chaga, shiitake, maitake, Agaricius blazei and a mixture thereof. In particular, the subject of the invention is the powdery cosmetic composition as described above, said mushroom (adaptogen) being chosen from: the genus Tremella, reishi, the genus Cordyceps, chaga, shiitake, maitake, Agaricius blazei and a mixture thereof.
[0060] According to another embodiment, the subject of the invention is the powdery cosmetic composition as described above, in which the total quantity of said mushroom (adaptogen) is from 0.01% to 3% by mass relative to the total mass of said powdery cosmetic composition.
[0061] According to another embodiment, the subject of the invention is the powdery cosmetic composition as described above, said powdery cosmetic composition consisting of or comprising: • an oil, in particular sunflower oil (Helianthus annuus seed oil); • an apple extract, in particular Pyrus malus Fiber; • zinc, in particular zinc PCA; • a prebiotic, in particular α-glucan oligosaccharide; • a probiotic, in particular a lactic ferment, in association with a adhesion agent for powders, in particular maltodextrin powder; • an adhesion agent for powders, in particular corn starch; • an antibacterial deodorant active ingredient, in particular sodium bicarbonate and a mixture of magnesium hydroxide (Mg(OH)2) and magnesium carbonate hydroxide (Mg5(CO3)4(OH)2); • an antioxidant, in particular a tocopherol, a mixture of tocopherols (eg Covi-ox® T 90 C) or vitamin E; and • a perfume.
[0062] According to another embodiment, the invention relates to the powdery cosmetic composition as described above, in which: • the total quantity of said oil is between 0.5% and 1.5% by mass relative to the total mass of said powdery cosmetic composition, and is in particular 1%; • the total quantity of said apple extract is between 1% and 5% by mass relative to the total mass of said powdery cosmetic composition, and is in particular 4%; • the total quantity of said zinc is between 0.1% and 1% by mass relative to the total mass of said powdery cosmetic composition, and is in particular 0.5%; • the total quantity of said prebiotic is between 0.1% and 1% by mass relative to the total mass of said powdered cosmetic composition, and is in particular 0.7%; • said probiotic is mixed with one of said powder adhesion agents, in particular maltodextrin powder, the total quantity of said “probiotic / powder adhesion agent” mixture in powder form is between 0.1% and 0.5% by mass relative to the total mass of said powdery cosmetic composition, and is in particular 0.3%; • the total quantity of said powder adhesion agent is between 55% and 60% by mass relative to the total mass of said powdery cosmetic composition, and is in particular 57.5%; • the total quantity of said antibacterial deodorant active ingredient is between 30% and 40% by mass relative to the total mass of said powdery cosmetic composition, and is in particular 33.5%; • the total quantity of said antioxidant is from 0.1% to 1% by mass relative to the total mass of said powdery cosmetic composition, and is in particular 0.5%; and • the total quantity of said perfume is between 1% and 3% by mass relative to the total mass of said powdery cosmetic composition, and is in particular 2%.
[0063] According to another embodiment, the subject of the invention is the pulverulent cosmetic composition as described above, said pulverulent cosmetic composition- worm being made up of or comprising: • 1% by mass of said sunflower oil (Helianthus annuus seed oil) per relative to the total mass of said powdery cosmetic composition; • 4% by mass of said Pyrus malus Fiber relative to the total mass of said powdery cosmetic composition; • 0.5% by mass of said PCA zinc relative to the total mass of said com powdery cosmetic position; • 0.7% by mass of said oligosaccharide of α-glucan relative to the total mass of said powdery cosmetic composition; • 0.3% by mass of said lactic ferment mixed with said malt powder- todextrin relative to the total mass of said powdery cosmetic composition; • 57.5% by mass of said corn starch relative to the total mass of said powdery cosmetic composition; • 16.75% by mass of said sodium bicarbonate relative to the total mass of said powdery cosmetic composition; • 16.75% by mass of said mixture of magnesium hydroxide (Mg(OH)2) and magnesium carbonate hydroxide (Mg5(CO3)4(OH)2) relative to the total mass of said powdery cosmetic composition; • 0.5% by mass of tocopherol, of a mixture of tocopherols (eg Covi-ox® T 90 C) or vitamin E relative to the total mass of said powdered cosmetic composition; and • 2% by mass of said perfume relative to the total mass of said composition powdered cosmetics.
[0064] According to another embodiment, the subject of the invention is the powdery cosmetic composition as described above, said powdery cosmetic composition consisting of or comprising: • an oil, in particular sunflower oil (Helianthus annuus seed oil); • an apple extract, in particular Pyrus malus Fiber; • zinc, in particular zinc PCA; • a prebiotic, in particular α-glucan oligosaccharide; • a probiotic, in particular a lactic ferment, in association with a adhesion agent for powders, in particular maltodextrin powder; • an adhesion agent for powders, in particular corn starch; • an antibacterial deodorant active ingredient, in particular sodium bicarbonate and a mixture of magnesium hydroxide (Mg(OH)2) and magnesium carbonate hydroxide (Mg5(CO3)4(OH)2); • a non-antibacterial deodorant active ingredient, in particular triethyl citrate (eg CITROFOL® AI EXTRA); • an antioxidant, in particular a tocopherol, a mixture of tocopherols (eg Covi-ox® T 90 C) or vitamin E; and • a perfume.
[0065] According to another embodiment, the invention relates to the powdery cosmetic composition as described above, in which: • the total quantity of said oil is between 0.5% and 1.5% by mass relative to the total mass of said powdery cosmetic composition, and is in particular 1%; • the total quantity of said apple extract is between 1% and 5% by mass relative to the total mass of said powdery cosmetic composition, and is in particular 2%; • the total quantity of said zinc is between 0.1% and 1% by mass relative to the total mass of said powdery cosmetic composition, and is in particular 0.5%; • the total quantity of said prebiotic is between 0.1% and 1% by mass relative to the total mass of said powdered cosmetic composition, and is in particular 0.7%; • said probiotic is mixed with one of said powder adhesion agents, in particular maltodextrin powder, the total quantity of said “probiotic / powder adhesion agent” mixture in powder form is between 0.1% and 0.5% by mass relative to the total mass of said powdery cosmetic composition, and is in particular 0.3%; • the total quantity of said powder adhesion agent is between 55% and 60% by mass relative to the total mass of said powdery cosmetic composition, and is in particular 57.5%; • the total quantity of said antibacterial deodorant active ingredient is between 30% and 40% by mass relative to the total mass of said powdery cosmetic composition, and is in particular 33.5%; • the total quantity of said triethyl citrate (eg CITROFOL® AI EXTRA) is between 1% and 15% by mass relative to the total mass of said powdery cosmetic composition, and is in particular 2%; • the total quantity of said antioxidant is from 0.1% to 1% by mass relative to the total mass of said powdery cosmetic composition, and is in particular 0.5%; and • the total quantity of said perfume is between 1% and 3% by mass relative to the total mass of said powdery cosmetic composition, and is in particular 2%.
[0066] According to another embodiment, the subject of the invention is the powdery cosmetic composition as described above, said powdery cosmetic composition consisting of or comprising: • 1% by mass of said sunflower oil (Helianthus annuus seed oil) per relative to the total mass of said powdery cosmetic composition; • 2% by mass of said Pyrus malus Fiber relative to the total mass of said powdery cosmetic composition; • 0.5% by mass of said PCA zinc relative to the total mass of said com powdery cosmetic position; • 0.7% by mass of said oligosaccharide of α-glucan relative to the total mass of said powdery cosmetic composition; • 0.3% by mass of said lactic ferment mixed with said malt powder- todextrin relative to the total mass of said powdery cosmetic composition; • 57.5% by mass of said corn starch relative to the total mass of said powdery cosmetic composition; • 16.75% by mass of said sodium bicarbonate relative to the total mass of said powdery cosmetic composition; • 16.75% by mass of said mixture of magnesium hydroxide (Mg(OH)2) and magnesium carbonate hydroxide (Mg5(CO3)4(OH)2) relative to the total mass of said powdery cosmetic composition; • 2% by mass of triethyl citrate (eg CITROFOL® AI EXTRA) per relative to the total mass of said powdery cosmetic composition; • 0.5% by mass of a tocopherol, a mixture of tocopherols (eg Covi-ox® T 90 C) or vitamin E relative to the total mass of said powdery cosmetic composition; and • 2% by mass of said perfume relative to the total mass of said composition powdered cosmetics.
[0067] According to another embodiment, the subject of the invention is the powdery cosmetic composition as described above, said powdery cosmetic composition being free of preservatives, talc, perlite, alcohols (with the exception of that present in said perfume), aluminum salts, parabens, triclosan, phthalates, silicones and / or colorants. In particular, the subject of the invention is the powdery cosmetic composition as described above, said powdery cosmetic composition being free of aluminum salts and / or preservatives.
[0068] According to another embodiment, the subject of the invention is the pulverulent cosmetic composition as described above, said pulverulent cosmetic composition being characterized by a particle size having particle sizes ranging from 0.13 pm to 127 pm, in particular centered at a diameter of 11 pm (said particle size being measured by laser diffraction - Example No. 2).
[0069] According to another embodiment, the invention relates to the powdery cosmetic composition as described above, said powdery cosmetic composition being characterized by a water activity of from 0.160 Aw to 0.200 Aw at a temperature of from 24°C to 27°C, in particular of 0.183 ± 0.014 Aw at a temperature of 26.1 ± 0.27°C (said water activity being measured using the HygroPalm AW1 apparatus - Example No. 3).
[0070] According to another embodiment, the invention relates to the powdery cosmetic composition as described above, said powdery cosmetic composition being characterized by an apparent density of from 0.40 g / cm3 to 0.50 g / cm3, in particular from 0.44 to 0.48 g / cm3, at a temperature of 20°C (said apparent density being measured using the SOTAX TD1 apparatus - Example No. 4).
[0071] According to another embodiment, the invention relates to the powdery cosmetic composition as described above, said powdery cosmetic composition being characterized by a packed density of from 0.60 g / cm3 to 0.70 g / cm3, in particular 0.68 g / cm3, at a temperature of 20°C (said packed density being measured using the SOTAX TD1 apparatus and the USP2 method - Example No. 4);
[0072] According to another embodiment, the subject of the invention is the powdery cosmetic composition as described above, said powdery cosmetic composition being characterized by a pH of from 5 to 6 after dissolution in an aqueous solvent (eg aqueous solution (water, alcohol) comprising 10% by mass of the powdery cosmetic composition of the invention).
[0073] According to another embodiment, the subject of the invention is the powdery cosmetic composition as described above, said powdery cosmetic composition being characterized by: • a particle size distribution having particle sizes ranging from 0.13 pm to 127 pm, in particular centered at a diameter of 11 pm (said particle size distribution being measured by laser diffraction - Example No. 2);
[0074] and / or • a water activity of from 0.160 Aw to 0.200 Aw at a temperature of from 24°C to 27°C, in particular of 0.183 ± 0.014 Aw at a temperature of 26.1 ± 0.27°C (said water activity being measured using the HygroPalm AW1 device - Example No. 3);
[0075] and / or • an apparent density of from 0.40 g / cm3 to 0.50 g / cm3, in particular from 0.44 to 0.48 g / cm3, at a temperature of 20°C (said apparent density being measured using the SOTAX TD1 apparatus - Example No. 4);
[0076] and / or • a tapped density of from 0.60 g / cm3 to 0.70 g / cm3, in particular 0.68 g / cm3, at a temperature of 20°C (said tapped density being measured using the SOTAX TD1 apparatus and the USP2 method - Example No. 4);
[0077] and / or • a pH of between 5 and 6 after dissolution in an aqueous solvent (eg aqueous solution (water, alcohol) comprising 10% by mass of the powdery cosmetic composition of the invention).
[0078] According to another embodiment, the subject of the invention is the powdery cosmetic composition as described above, said powdery cosmetic composition being characterized by: • a particle size distribution having particle sizes ranging from 0.13 pm to 127 pm centered at a diameter of 11 pm (said particle size distribution being measured by laser diffraction - Example No. 2);
[0079] and / or • a water activity of 0.183 ± 0.014 Aw at a temperature of 26.1 ± 0.27°C (said water activity being measured using the HygroPalm AW1 device - Example No. 3);
[0080] and / or • an apparent density of from 0.44 to 0.48 g / cm3, at a temperature of 20°C (said apparent density being measured using the SOTAX TD1 device - Example No. 4);
[0081] and / or • a tapped density of 0.68 g / cm3, at a temperature of 20°C (said tapped density being measured using the SOTAX TD1 apparatus and the USP2 method - Example No. 4);
[0082] and / or • a pH of between 5 and 6 after dissolution in an aqueous solvent (eg aqueous solution (water, alcohol) comprising 10% by mass of the powdery cosmetic composition of the invention).
[0083] According to another aspect, the invention relates to the use of a powdery cosmetic composition as described above as a deodorant. By "deodorant", reference is made to a cosmetic product intended solely to mask unpleasant body odors. The invention is therefore not to be confused with an antiperspirant which, in addition to masking unpleasant odors, slows the flow of perspiration.
[0084] According to another embodiment, the invention relates to the use as described above, in which an amount of from 0.15 g to 0.20 g is applied in sweating areas, especially the armpits.
[0085] According to another aspect, the invention relates to a process for the cold manufacture (i.e. without heating) of a pulverulent cosmetic composition as described above at a temperature of from 18°C to 28°C (in particular from 20°C to 24°C) and at normal atmospheric pressure (approximately 1013 hPa or 1 atm), said process comprising at least the following steps:
[0086] 1) weigh all the powders together;
[0087] 2) weigh the ingredient(s) in oily form (eg oil), add it(them) to the powders then mix carefully to avoid lumps;
[0088] 3) weigh the ingredient(s) in liquid form (eg perfume), add it(them) to the powders then mix carefully to avoid lumps;
[0089] 4) weigh the ingredient(s) in pasty form (eg Covi-ox® T 90 C), add the to the powders then mix carefully to avoid lumps;
[0090] 5) transferring the powder into a blender-type mixer; and
[0091] 6) mix the powder vigorously for one minute to obtain a mixture homogeneous.
[0092] According to another aspect, the invention relates to a device consisting of or comprising: • a box which can be closed using a removable lid, said box containing said powdery cosmetic composition as described above, above which is arranged a grid with at least one hole, in particular at least 5 holes (and very particularly 7 holes); and • a puff, in particular a cotton puff, allowing the application of said powdery cosmetic composition as described above to the areas of perspiration, said puff being able to be housed between said removable cover and said grid.
[0093] According to another embodiment, the invention relates to the device as described above, in which said box, said cover and said grid are made of aluminum.
[0094] According to another embodiment, the invention relates to the device as described above, in which said box contains a quantity of from 30 g to 40 g of said powdery cosmetic composition as described above.
[0095] In any respect, it should be noted that the different aspects of the invention, just like the different embodiments thereof, are interdependent. The latter can therefore be combined with each other as much as necessary to obtain preferred aspects and / or embodiments of the invention not explicitly described. This is also valid for all the definitions provided in the present description, which applies to all aspects of the invention and its embodiments.
[0096] Further, the present invention is illustrated, but not limited to, the figures and following examples. LIST OF FIGURES
[0097] [Fig.l]
[0098] [Fig.l] is a photograph of an example of a device according to the invention.
[0099] [Fig.2]
[0100] [Fig.2] is a photograph of an example of a device according to the invention with a demonstration of the application of the powdery cosmetic composition according to the invention to a powder puff.
[0101] [Fig.3]
[0102] [Fig.3] represents the texture analysis carried out on Formulation No. 1 of Example 6. The black curve (No. 7) represents the Volume Density (%) and the gray curve (No. 2) represents the Cumulative Volume (%). The curves correspond to the average curve of the three replicas. EXAMPLES
[0103] Example No. 1 - General procedure for manufacturing powdery cosmetic compositions according to the invention
[0104] The manufacturing was carried out cold without heating at a temperature of 18°C to 28°C (in particular 20°C to 24°C) and at normal atmospheric pressure (approximately 1013 hPa or 1 atm). The following steps were implemented:
[0105] Weigh all the powders together.
[0106] Weigh the ingredient(s) in oily form (e.g. oil), add them to the powders then mix carefully to avoid lumps.
[0107] Weigh the ingredient(s) in liquid form (e.g. the perfume), add them to the powders then mix carefully to avoid lumps.
[0108] Weigh the ingredient(s) in pasty form (eg Covi-ox® T 90 C), add them to the powders then mix carefully to avoid lumps.
[0109] Transfer the powder into a blender-type mixer.
[0110] Mix the powder vigorously for one minute to obtain a homogeneous mixture. Example No. 2 - Granulometry measurement ANALYSIS PROTOCOL Dry particle size distribution
[0111] Granulometric Distribution: Malvern Instruments - Mastersizer 3000
[0112] Dry sample preparer: Malvern Instruments - Aéro S
[0113] Laser diffraction measures particle size distributions by measuring the angular variation in the intensity of scattered light as a laser beam passes through a sample of dispersed particles. Large particles scatter the light at small angles to the laser beam and small particles scatter light at larger angles. The data relating to the scattered intensity as a function of angle are analyzed to calculate the size of the particles that created the diffraction pattern using Mie theory. The particle size is represented by the diameter of the equivalent sphere, having the same volume as the particle. The measurements carried out in Laser Granulometry are inspired by the ISO 13320:2009 standard. The analyses were carried out in triplicate. Analysis parameter Dry route
[0114] Theory: Mie
[0115] Refractive index: 1.52 - Absorption: 0.10
[0116] Pressure: 3.5 bars
[0117] Sieve: Small mesh
[0118] Sieve Vibration: 40%
[0119] Sieve Opening: 4
[0120] Obscuration rate: between 0.5 and 15% Index
[0121] Dv10 = 10% of the particles in the sample analyzed are less than X pm.
[0122] Dv50 = 50% of the particles in the sample analyzed are less than X pm.
[0123] Dv90 = 90% of the particles in the sample analyzed are less than X pm.
[0124] D(4:3) = Average particle size relative to volume.
[0125] Example No. 3 - Measurement of water activity (Aw) METHOD OF OPERATION Device Description
[0126] The HygroPahn AW 1 is a portable device for measuring water activity and temperature. The measurement was carried out by a HygroClip AW-DIO sensor which is a measuring chamber into which the sample contained in a suitable cuvette was introduced. Carrying out the test
[0127] Fill the container to the correct level and do not put the lid on.
[0128] Place the sample in the cuvette.
[0129] Place the HygroClip AW-DIO sensor on the bowl.
[0130] Connect the HygroClip AW-DIO sensor to the HygroPalm AW 1 and switch on the device.
[0131] The device has been programmed to AwQuick mode. To change the mode: • Press MENU • Then, press ENTER, • Select the desired mode using the arrows, • Validate by pressing ENTER 3 times. • Return to the main screen.
[0132] To start the measurement, press ENTER.
[0133] The red LED on the HygroClip AW-DIO sensor is flashing during measurement. If the LED is not flashing, check the sensor connection.
[0134] The humidity trend display appears after 60 seconds. Two arrows signify stable temperature and humidity values. When the equilibrium state is reached, the device has frozen the display and two black rectangles then indicate the end of the measurement.
[0135] Repeat the measurement 2 more times and take the average of the three measurements.
[0136] Enter the result.
[0137] Precautions to take for sampling:
[0138] The measurement of water activity must be carried out in a room at stable temperature.
[0139] Do not place the appliance next to a heater, a water pipe or a open window.
[0140] The samples must be in the same climatic conditions as the sensor. It will therefore be necessary to respect an adaptation time to the ambient temperature before taking a measurement.
[0141] Do not take measurements just after manufacturing
[0142] Example No. 4 - Measurement of (apparent) density and tapped density METHOD OF OPERATION Setting up and switching on the device
[0143] Turn on the device (SOTAX TD1) by placing the switch on the back of the device in position I and wait for the device to start (home screen display).
[0144] The device is supplied with 2 graduated cylinders, one of 100 mL and the other of 250 mL. Sample preparation
[0145] The material used must be perfectly dry before use.
[0146] Insert approximately 230 mL of the sample to be analyzed into the 250 mL graduated cylinder, taking care not to pack the powder. Record the weight of this quantity of powder introduced.
[0147] Carrying out measurements of packed and unpacked densities
[0148] Unpacked density or apparent density
[0149] Once the test tube is filled with approximately 100 g of the sample, read the volume and calculate the mass (g) / volume (mL) ratio. This ratio corresponds to the mass volume of the sample. The density is calculated by dividing this value by the mass volume of water (i.e. 1 g / mL at room temperature [20°C]).
[0150] [Math.l] unpacked density - powder mass Q?) volume read (mL)
[0151] Packed density
[0152] The measurement of the packed density is carried out with the test tube filled to 230 mL (the same as for the unpacked density).
[0153] Place the test tube on the support and fix it with the black ring, by rotating it.
[0154] Place this assembly on the device.
[0155] A support may be used for the placement of the test piece. Its presence defines the proposed method for carrying out the measurement (see below).
[0156] Press the button to enter the menu.
[0157] Turn the dial to go to “Method” and press to validate. • If the support has been placed, only the USP2 method can be used (example above). • In the absence of support, both methods USP1 and USP2 are available.
[0158] The 2 methods differ in the speed of the strokes: 300 strokes / min for USP1 and 250 strokes / min for USP2.
[0159] A “User” method can also be chosen and allows the method (number of moves) to be manually defined.
[0160] Validate the method by pressing the button. The screen displays the method details. Go to the bottom of the screen with the wheel and press to validate "Save and exit".
[0161] Enter the “Start” menu and enter the initial mass of the powder introduced and the initial volume (values used to calculate the unpacked density) by turning the dial. Confirm by pressing “Continue”.
[0162] When validating, a message appears to check the presence of the support with the test piece. Validate “Start test”.
[0163] The device begins to pack. At the end of each series of strokes, read the value on the graduated cylinder and enter it on the screen by turning the dial and pressing to validate and continue the method.
[0164] Using the example of the USP2 method, the one that was implemented, it is necessary to enter the values read on the test piece after the series of: 10 shots, 490 shots, 750 shots and 1,250 shots.
[0165] After these series, restart a series of 1,250 strokes until the value read on the test tube between 2 successive series is less than 2 mL. This indicates the end of the measure
[0166] At the end of the measurement, the results appear on the screen: • Reminder of the method • Tap density and untapped density. • Compressibility index providing information on the powder's ability to compact (“compressibility index”) • Hausner index (“Hausner ratio”): this is an adimensional quantity equal to the ratio of the packed density to the unpacked density, which provides information on the flow properties of the powder. • Reminder of volumes read after each series of shots. Example No. 5 - pH Measurement
[0167] The powdery cosmetic composition according to the invention was weighed and diluted in water to obtain an aqueous solution comprising 10% by mass of the powdery cosmetic composition. The pH was then measured at room temperature (ranging from 18°C to 28°C, in particular 20°C), using a pH meter.
[0168] Example No. 6 - Formulation No. 1 of a powdery cosmetic composition according to the invention
[0169] [Tables 1] Trade name Supplier INCI name % Sodium bicarbonate B CEF Humens / DKSH Sodium bicarbonate 16.75 Sunflower oil Actibio Helianthus annuus seed oil 1 Maisita 9060 Agrana Zea mays (Corn) Starch 57.5 CareMag® D Azelis / Clariant Magnesium Hydroxide (and) Magnesium Carbonate Hydroxide 16.75 VITACEL® CS 5 APPLE AMI INGREDIENTS (BASF) Pyrus Malus Fiber 4 Symreboot® L19 Symrise, Safic Alcan Maltodextrin Lac-tobacillus Ferment 0.3 Zincidone® Solabia Zinc PCA 0.5 Bioecolia® Solabia a-glucan oligosaccharide 0.7 ACTISCENT® COSMOS SILK FLOWER G 122 12737 ROBERTET Parfum 2 COVI-OX® T90 EU C BASF Tocopherol 0.5 Total 100
[0170] Table 1. List of ingredients of Formulation No. 1
[0171] The analysis of the granulometry showed ([Fig.3] - Table 2) that: • the analyzed sample has particle sizes ranging from 0.13 qm to 127 pm ; • the main population is centered at a diameter of about 11 pins; • there are 3 minor populations that were detected at approximately: 0.4 pm, 2 pm and 67 pm ; and • the percentage of particles with diameters less than 10 pm is 45%.
[0172] [Tables3] Granulometry Dv0 (pm) Dv10 (pm) Dv50 (pm) Dv90 (pm) Sample tested 0.13 1.71 10.9 25.5
[0173] Table 3. Granulometry analysis
[0174] After carrying out all the texture analyses, the powdery cosmetic composition obtained was finally presented in the form of a flesh-colored powder (nude appearance) and characterized by: • a particle size distribution having particle sizes ranging from 0.13 pm to 127 pm, in particular centered at a diameter of 11 pm; • a water activity of 0.183 ± 0.014 Aw at a temperature of 26.1 ± 0.27°C; • an apparent density of 0.44 to 0.48 g / cm3 at a temperature of 20°C; • a packed density of 0.68 g / cm3 at a temperature of 20°C; and • a pH between 5 and 6 at a temperature of 20°C.
[0175] Example No. 7 - Formulation No. 2 of a powdery cosmetic composition according to the invention
[0176] [Tables3] Trade name Supplier INCI name % Sodium bicarbonate B CEF Humens / DKSH Sodium bicarbonate 16.75 Sunflower oil Actibio Helianthus annuus seed oil 1 Maisita 9060 Agrana Zea mays (Corn) Starch 57.5 CareMag® D Azelis / Clariant Magnesium Hydroxide (and) Magnesium Carbonate Hydroxide 16.75 VITACEL® CS 5 APPLE AMI INGREDIENTS (BASF) Pyrus Malus Fiber 2 Symreboot® L19 Symrise, Safic Alcan Maltodextrin Lac-tobacillus Ferment 0.3 Zincidone® Solabia Zinc PCA 0.5 Bioecolia® Solabia a-glucan oligosaccharide 0.7 ACTISCENT® COSMOS SILK FLOWER G 122 12737 ROBERTET Parfum 2 COVI-OX® T90 EU C BASF, Azelis Tocopherol 0.5 Citrafol® AI Extra AMI INGREDIENTS (BASF) Triethyl citrate 2 Total 100
[0177] Table 3. List of ingredients of Formulation No. 2
[0178] The powdery cosmetic composition obtained is in the form of a flesh-colored powder (nude appearance) and characterized by a texture similar to that of Formulation No. 1.
[0179] Example No. 8 - Usage test carried out with Formulation No. 1 (Example No. 6)
[0180] The cosmetic composition produced in Example No. 6 was tested in a test for evaluating the clinical and dermatological tolerance and acceptability of a cosmetic product after use over a period of 21 days under normal conditions of use.
[0181] The tests were carried out by the company SGS IDEA Clinic, France. INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE CHOSEN FOR THE STUDY
[0182] (1) Place a generous amount of powder on the puff.
[0183] (2) Tap the puff on your clean armpit.
[0184] (3) If you are faced with intense physical effort, you can reapply it during the day. POPULATION PROVIDED FOR IN THE PROTOCOL
[0185] Number of volunteers to be included
[0186] A minimum of 20 volunteers were included. Approximately 10% of additional volunteers were recruited in order to obtain the adequate number of volunteers at the end of the study.
[0187] Inclusion criteria • healthy volunteers; • female or male volunteers; • volunteers aged 18 to 70; • volunteers with any skin type in the armpits; • volunteers who reported having sensitive skin in their armpits; • volunteers shaving or waxing their armpits; • volunteers using deodorants and not antiperspirants; • volunteers presenting a normal clinical examination beforehand; • volunteers without severe allergies and without flare-ups of atopy; • volunteers free from any dermatological lesions on the armpits; • volunteers free from a history of significant allergies to cosmetic or household products; • volunteers who have already used a product in the same category as the product studied; • volunteers who have signed written, free, informed and express consent; • in the case where the volunteers were women: non-pregnant women or not likely to be, non-breastfeeding women; • volunteers able to understand the requirements of the study.
[0188] Non-inclusion criteria • volunteers with an incompatible general pathology; • volunteers with progressive dermatological pathology; • volunteers undergoing treatment such as anti-inflammatories, corticosteroids, antihistamines or any treatment reducing or inhibiting inflammatory or allergic reactions; prohibited medications will be described in the current internal manual; • volunteers in exclusion period between two studies.
[0189] Study requirements
[0190] Throughout the study, volunteers were asked: • to attend all visits without having applied any hygiene and / or care product to the armpits; • not to expose yourself voluntarily or involuntarily to UV rays (natural or artificial); • not to change their hygiene and cosmetic habits; • not to use new cosmetic products; • not to use another cosmetic product of the same class as the product studied; • to use the product studied as a replacement for their usual product, if its category allows it; • not to perform aesthetic or dermatological procedures; • not to plan surgical intervention; • not to go to the beautician (for treatment, hair removal, etc.) armpit level); • in the case where the volunteers were women: to continue to use a medically acceptable contraceptive method in order to avoid any onset of pregnancy. METHODOLOGY
[0191] The study was single-center, open and comparative between J21 and J1. This study, carried out on sensitive skin, followed the latest ARPP recommendations.
[0192] Visit to Jl • Inform volunteers about the progress of the study; • Collect the written, free, express, informed and signed consent of volunteers; • Check compliance with inclusion and non-inclusion criteria; • Assign eligible volunteers an inclusion number according to their order of arrival in the study; • Record the clinical examination (site examined: armpits) and the current treatments taken by the volunteers; • Give the volunteers the previously weighed product studied as well as the instructions for use; • Remind volunteers of the constraints linked to the study, in particular to carry out the last application the day before the next • appointment and attend the visit without having applied any product to the site examined; • Set a new meeting for volunteers on D21.
[0193] Visit on D21 • Check compliance with protocol requirements; • Check compliance with applications; • Recover the remaining product in its initial packaging, in order to check its consumption; • Collect volunteers’ impressions on the cosmetic qualities of the product; • Record the clinical examination and any treatments taken by the volunteers since the last visit; • Collect any clinical and / or functional signs from the volunteers RESULTS AND ANALYSES
[0194] Population analyzed
[0195] Number of volunteers included: 22
[0196] Number of volunteers analyzed: 22 • 17 women and 5 men • average age of 48 years, between 19 and 70 years • all skin types in the armpits • volunteers who reported having sensitive skin in the armpit area • volunteers shaving or waxing their armpits • volunteers using deodorants and not antiperspirants
[0197] Results - discussion
[0198] Evaluation of clinical and dermatological tolerance
[0199] No clinical signs of intolerance were observed.
[0200] No discomfort was reported. Cosmetic acceptability
[0201] Volunteers evaluated the product for its properties after use over a period of 21 days: • Overall satisfaction: 73% • Purchase intention: 12 out of 22 volunteers • Items relating to the acceptability and effectiveness of the product (positive responses > 75%*): - I found the product pleasant to apply to the armpits - When applied, the powder spreads easily - As soon as I apply the product, my skin feels soft - Upon application, the powder leaves a dry and soft touch to the skin of my armpits - Upon application, the armpit is not greasy or sticky - Throughout the day, I don't feel more wetness on my armpits than with my usual deodorant - I did not experience any irritation in the areas where the product was applied. - I was able to use this product on my waxed or shaved skin without any irritation. - I enjoyed using this product - My armpit skin is not dry - I felt a sense of comfort throughout the day - I find the soft powder texture revolutionary - The scent is sweet and pleasant CONCLUSION
[0202] Under the conditions of the study, the cosmetic composition produced in Example No. 6 exhibited: • excellent dermatological tolerance, according to the adopted scale, on the skin of the armpits; • an absence of feeling of discomfort or reaction in volunteers who declared having sensitive skin: the cosmetic composition produced in example No. 6 is suitable for sensitive underarm skin; • and very good cosmetic acceptability, with 73% favorable opinions.
[0203] Example No. 9 - Usage test carried out with Formulation No. 2 (Example No. 7)
[0204] The cosmetic composition produced in Example No. 7 was tested in a test for evaluating the clinical and dermatological tolerance and acceptability of a cosmetic product after use over a period of 21 days under normal conditions of use.
[0205] The tests were carried out by the company SGS IDEA Clinic, France.
[0206] The tests were carried out following a protocol identical to that of Example No. 8.
[0207] Under the conditions of the study, results identical or even better than those of the cosmetic composition produced in Example No. 6 were obtained. The cosmetic composition produced in Example No. 7 therefore presented: • excellent dermatological tolerance; • no feeling of discomfort or reaction and is therefore suitable for sensitive underarm skin; • and excellent cosmetic acceptability.
Claims
Claims
1. Powdery cosmetic composition comprising: • an oil, in oily form; • zinc, in powder form; • a powder adhesion agent, in powder form; • an antioxidant, in powder or liquid form, or in pasty form; • a prebiotic, in powder form, and / or a probiotic, in powder form; and • a deodorant active ingredient.
2. Powdery cosmetic composition according to claim 1, said oil being chosen from: jojoba oil, sweet almond oil, bitter almond oil, argan oil, sesame oil, camellia oil, safflower oil, moringa oil, castor oil, coconut oil, apricot oil, linseed oil, pomegranate oil, grape seed oil, prickly pear oils, marula oil, evening primrose oil, avocado oil, raspberry oil, borage oil, olive oil, neem oil, sunflower oil, walnut oil, hazelnut oil, amla oil, plum oil, coffee oil, hemp, a vanilla macerate, an oil powder, a fermented oil, a mineral oil, a hydrogenated oil, a mineral and hydrogenated oil, a fatty acid ester and mixtures thereof, in particular said oil being sunflower oil (Helianthus annuus seed oil).
3. A powdery cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, said zinc being zinc PCA and / or a zinc salt.
4. A powdery cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, said powder adhesion agent being chosen from: corn starch, acacia powder, maltodextrin powder, tapioca powder, rice powder, rice starch, rice bran extract, arrowroot powder, almond milk powder, oat powder, an oat extract and a mixture thereof, in particular said adhesion agent being corn starch and / or maltodextrin powder.
5. Powdery cosmetic composition according to any one of the re- claims 1 to 4, said antioxidant being chosen from: a tocopherol, a mixture of tocopherols, ascorbic acid (vitamin C), an ascorbic acid derivative and a mixture thereof, in particular said antioxidant being a tocopherol, a mixture of tocopherols or vitamin E.
6. Powdery cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, said prebiotic being chosen from: α-glucan oligosaccharide, rinulin, rhydroxypropyltrimonium-inulin and a mixture thereof, said α-glucan oligosaccharide being in particular made up of 2 to 50 sugar units and more particularly of 2 to 10 sugar units.
7. Powdered cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, said probiotic being a lactic ferment, in particular said lactic ferment being Lactobacillus plantarum HEAL19 (DSM 15313) and / or Lactobacillus plantarum HEAL99 (DSM 15316).
8. A powdery cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, said powdery cosmetic composition further comprising: • a perfume which is in liquid form; and / or • an apple extract, in powder form, in particular said apple extract being Pyrus malus Fiber.
9. Powdery cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, said powdery cosmetic composition being characterized by: • a particle size having particle sizes of from 0.13 pm to 127 pm, in particular centered at a diameter of 11 pm; and / or • a water activity of from 0.160 Aw to 0.200 Aw at a temperature of from 24°C to 27°C, in particular of 0.183 ± 0.014 Aw at a temperature of 26.1 ± 0.27°C; and / or • an apparent density of from 0.40 g / cm3 to 0.50 g / cm3, in particular from 0.44 to 0.48 g / cm3, at a temperature of 20°C; and / or • a packed density of from 0.60 g / cm3 to 0.70 g / cm3, in particular 0.68 g / cm3, at a temperature of 20°C; and / or • a pH between 5 and 6 after dissolution in an aqueous solvent.
10. Device consisting of or comprising: • a box resealable using a removable lid, said box containing said powdery cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 above which is arranged a grid with at least one hole, in particular at least 5 holes; and • a puff, in particular a cotton puff, allowing the application of said powdery cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 to the areas of perspiration, said puff being able to be housed between said removable cover and said grid.
Citation Information
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