Cosmetic composition for lightening or whitening the skin
A cosmetic composition using Japanese lily of the valley and yarrow extracts inhibits melanocyte dendrite elongation and melanin synthesis, effectively lightening, whitening, and depigmenting the skin with enhanced efficacy.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2024000273
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-01-11
- Publication Date
- 2025-07-18
AI Technical Summary
There is a need for sustainable cosmetic compositions that effectively lighten, whiten, and depigment keratinous materials, particularly the skin, by inhibiting melanocyte dendrite elongation and reducing melanin production.
A cosmetic composition comprising Japanese lily of the valley and yarrow extracts, optionally combined with additional active ingredients like alpha arbutin, licorice root extract, and vitamin E, inhibits melanocyte dendrite elongation and melanin synthesis, providing a synergistic skin lightening, whitening, and depigmenting effect.
The composition achieves improved and long-lasting skin lightening, whitening, and depigmenting effects through synergistic inhibition of melanocyte dendrite elongation and melanin production, enhancing skin elasticity and firmness.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition for lightening or whitening the skin FIELD OF THE INVENTION
[0001] The technical field of the present invention is that of cosmetic compositions. The invention relates more particularly to a cosmetic composition comprising a plant extract of Japanese lily of the valley and a plant extract of yarrow and its uses in the cosmetic field. The invention relates more specifically to a cosmetic composition for lightening or whitening keratinous materials, in particular the skin. STATE OF THE ART
[0002] The pigmentary aspect of the human epidermis is influenced by several elements, including seasonal climates, ethnic origin and gender. It is above all the specificity and density of the melanin generated by melanocytes which is responsible for it. Melanocytes are cells dedicated to the production of melanin thanks to specific organelles called melanosomes. Furthermore, it is not uncommon for some people to see dark and / or pigmented marks appear on the epidermis during their lives, particularly on the hands, thus creating skin heterogeneity. Specialists in the field are constantly seeking to create products to make the skin lighter or whiter in an attempt to meet a growing need among consumers of cosmetic products.
[0003] Japanese lily of the valley is a perennial herbaceous plant, native to East Asia, renowned for its cosmetic properties. It is now used in various cosmetic applications, particularly for its skin-protecting effect. It contains compounds such as polysaccharides, saponins, steroids, flavonoids and phenolic acids which give it moisturizing, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.
[0004] Yarrow is a plant traditionally used for its cosmetic properties. Its virtues are attributed to its active components, such as flavonoids, sesquiterpenes and tannins, which have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and healing properties. Yarrow extract is known to stimulate the production of collagen and elastin by dermal fibroblasts, thus improving the elasticity and firmness of the skin. It also promotes cell proliferation and migration, which accelerates skin renewal.
[0005] There is a need to provide new cosmetic compositions comprising natural active ingredients for lightening, whitening and / or depigmenting the keratinous materials, particularly skin, in a sustainable manner. Statement of the invention
[0006] The invention relates to a cosmetic composition for lightening or whitening the skin by inhibiting the elongation of melanocyte dendrites, comprising a Japanese lily of the valley extract and a yarrow extract.
[0007] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises between 0.05% by mass and 10% by mass of Japanese lily of the valley extract.
[0008] According to another embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises between 0.05% by mass and 10% by mass of yarrow extract.
[0009] According to yet another embodiment of the invention, the Japanese lily of the valley extract is an extract of Japanese lily of the valley roots.
[0010] According to yet another embodiment of the invention, the yarrow extract is an extract of yarrow flowers or flowering tops.
[0011] According to yet another embodiment of the invention, the composition also comprises alpha arbutin, licorice root extract, glycyrrhetinic acid, vitamin E, 3-O ethyl ascorbate, niacinamide, Halidrys Siliquosa extract, tranexamic acid, bakuchiol and / or hydroxypinacollone retinoate.
[0012] According to yet another embodiment of the invention, the composition is in the form of a gel, emulsion, cream, milk, lotion, serum, essence, oil, wax, stick, powder or encapsulated.
[0013] The invention also relates to the cosmetic use of the composition according to the invention, for lightening or whitening the skin by inhibiting the elongation of melanocyte dendrites.
[0014] The invention also relates to the cosmetic use of the composition according to the invention, for a depigmenting effect.
[0015] The invention also relates to the cosmetic use of the composition according to the invention, for an anti-aging effect.
[0016] The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic use of an extract of yarrow leaves and an extract of Japanese lily of the valley roots as skin depigmenting, whitening and / or lightening agents.
[0017] A very first advantage of the present invention lies in the skin whitening effect of the composition.
[0018] Another advantage of the present invention lies in the skin lightening effect of the composition.
[0019] Yet another advantage of the present invention lies in the skin depigmenting effect of the composition.
[0020] Yet another advantage of the present invention lies in the anti-aging effect of the composition.
[0021] Yet another advantage of the present invention lies in the use of natural active ingredients.
[0022] Yet another advantage of the present invention lies in the use of COSMOS certified active ingredients.
[0023] Other characteristics, advantages and details of the invention will be better understood upon reading the additional description which follows.
[0024] DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF EMBODIMENTS OF THE INVENTION
[0025] In the context of the present invention, the term "cosmetic composition" means a non-therapeutic cosmetic composition comprising one or more cosmetic active ingredients. A cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention designates a set of molecules exhibiting non-therapeutic cosmetic efficacy on healthy skin. The cosmetic composition according to the invention is particularly suitable for lightening, whitening and / or depigmenting keratinous surfaces, in particular the skin.
[0026] In the context of the present invention, the term “extract” means a set of molecules extracted from a raw material, native or resulting from transformations.
[0027] Thus, by "Japanese lily of the valley extract" is meant a set of several molecules obtained by an action on the plant raw material, in this case Japanese lily of the genus Ophiopogon and in particular of the species Ophiopogon japonicus. The Japanese lily of the valley extract is for example an extract obtained from the leaves, flowers, stems and / or roots of Japanese lily of the valley. According to one embodiment of the invention, the Japanese lily of the valley extract is an extract obtained from the roots of Japanese lily of the valley (INCI name: Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract). In addition, the Japanese lily of the valley extract according to the invention comprises molecules such as steroidal saponins, polysaccharides, flavonoids and homoisoflavonoids.
[0028] Thus, by "yarrow extract" is meant a set of molecules obtained by an action on the plant raw material, in this case yarrow of the genus Achillea and in particular of the species A'Achillea millefolium. The yarrow extract is for example an extract obtained from the leaves, flowers, stems and / or roots of yarrow. According to one embodiment of the invention, the yarrow extract is an extract obtained from the flowers or floral tops of yarrow (INCI name: Achillea Millefolium Flower Extract). In addition, the yarrow extract according to the invention comprises molecules such as lactones, polyacetylenes and flavonoids.
[0029] In the context of the present invention, the term "keratinous material" means any biological material comprising keratin. Human skin and more particularly facial skin are particularly designated in the context of the present invention.
[0030] In the context of the present invention, the term "lightening or whitening the skin" means any action on the skin aimed at making it lighter or whiter, whether instantly or in the long term. In cosmetics, this lightening or whitening effect is generally achieved by seeking to reduce the amount of melanin in the skin. The invention makes it possible in particular to lighten or whiten the skin by inhibiting the elongation of the melanocytic dendrites of the melanocytes present in the skin.
[0031] In the context of the present invention, "melanocyte dendrite elongation" refers to the growth of these structures which are present in melanocytes, the cells producing the pigment melanin responsible for skin color. These dendrites play a key role in the transfer of melanin to surrounding cells. Inhibiting the elongation of melanocyte dendrites limits or prevents their growth, which reduces the production and transfer of melanin and therefore lightens, whitens and / or depigments the skin.
[0032] The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition comprising an extract of Japanese lily of the valley and an extract of yarrow. The inventor has surprisingly discovered that the combination of the two active ingredients, namely Japanese lily of the valley extract and yarrow extract, makes it possible to confer a whitening, lightening and / or depigmenting effect on the skin on the compositions comprising them. Furthermore, the inventor has discovered that a composition comprising an extract of Japanese lily of the valley and an extract of yarrow makes it possible to inhibit the elongation of melanocyte dendrites of human melanocytes.
[0033] The cosmetic composition according to the invention has cosmetic effects, in particular for lightening, whitening and / or depigmenting the skin, when used in topical application to the skin. The whitening, lightening and / or depigmenting effect on the skin is linked to a synergistic effect of the Japanese lily of the valley extract and the yarrow extract.
[0034] The Japanese lily of the valley extract is preferably an extract obtained from the roots of Japanese lily of the valley. It is for example packaged in an alcoholic solution. The Japanese lily of the valley extract according to the invention can be obtained by any suitable method known to those skilled in the art. According to one embodiment of the invention, the Japanese lily of the valley extract is an extract of Japanese lily of the valley roots.
[0035] The yarrow extract is preferably an extract obtained from yarrow flowers. It is for example packaged in an aqueous solution comprising glycerin. The yarrow extract according to the invention can be obtained by any suitable process known to those skilled in the art. According to one embodiment of the invention, the yarrow extract is an extract of leaves or flowering tops of yarrow.
[0036] The inventor has discovered that a cosmetic composition comprising yarrow extract and between 0.05% and 10% by mass of Japanese lily of the valley extract exhibits an improved and long-lasting skin lightening or whitening effect. For example, the composition according to the invention comprises 0.05%, 0.1%, 0.3%, 0.5%, 0.7%, 1%, 2%, 3%, 4%, 5%, 6%, 7%, 8%, 9% or 10% by mass of Japanese lily of the valley extract.
[0037] The inventor has discovered that a cosmetic composition comprising Japanese lily of the valley extract and between 0.05% and 10% by mass of yarrow extract exhibits an improved and long-lasting skin lightening or whitening effect. For example, the composition according to the invention comprises 0.05%, 0.1%, 0.3%, 0.5%, 0.7%, 1%, 2%, 3%, 4%, 5%, 6%, 7%, 8%, 9% or 10% by mass of yarrow extract.
[0038] Furthermore, a composition comprising between 0.05% and 10% by mass of yarrow extract and between 0.05% and 10% by mass of Japanese lily of the valley extract exhibits an improved and long-lasting skin lightening, whitening and / or depigmenting effect. The inventor has found that the synergistic effect of yarrow extract and Japanese lily of the valley extract is optimal when the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises an equal amount of Japanese lily of the valley extract and yarrow extract, for example 5% by mass of Japanese lily of the valley extract and 5% by mass of yarrow extract.
[0039] Preferably, the Japanese lily of the valley extract and the yarrow extract come from organic and ecological sources. According to one embodiment of the invention, the Japanese lily of the valley extract and the yarrow extract are COSMOS certified.
[0040] The cosmetic composition according to the invention is preferably in the form of a gel, emulsion, cream, milk, lotion, serum, essence, oil, wax, stick, powder or encapsulated. This makes it possible to adapt the composition according to the invention to any type of use and in particular to different skin types. For example, a composition in the form of a serum is particularly suitable for topical application to facial skin.
[0041] The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients. Optionally, said composition may contain one or more other additional cosmetic active ingredients.
[0042] Thus, according to one embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises, as additional active ingredient, alpha arbutin, licorice root extract, glycyrrhetinic acid, vitamin E, 3-O ethyl ascorbate, niacinamide, Halidrys Siliquosa extract, tranexamic acid, Bakuchiol and / or hydroxypinacollone retinoate.
[0043] Alpha arbutin (INCI name: alpha-arbutin) is a hydroquinone derivative. Alpha arbutin blocks the synthesis of melanin by melanocytes by inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase. In addition, a composition according to the invention comprising Japanese lily of the valley extract, yarrow extract and alpha arbutin makes it possible to lighten or whiten the skin not only by inhibiting the elongation of melanocyte dendrites, but also by inhibiting the synthesis of melanin. These are complementary modes of action and the whitening or lightening effect of the cosmetic composition is then greatly improved, whether it is the instantaneous or long-term effect. The composition according to the invention comprises between 0.1% and 5% by mass of alpha arbutin, preferably 2% by mass.
[0044] Licorice root extract (INCI name: Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract) is a lightening or depigmenting agent containing glabridin. It makes it possible to block the synthesis of melanin by melanocytes by inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase. In addition, a composition according to the invention comprising Japanese lily of the valley extract, yarrow extract and licorice root extract makes it possible to lighten or whiten the skin not only by inhibiting the elongation of melanocyte dendrites, but also by inhibiting the synthesis of melanin. These are complementary modes of action and the whitening or lightening effect of the cosmetic composition is then greatly improved, whether it is the instantaneous or long-term effect. The composition according to the invention comprises between 0.1% and 5% by mass of liquorice root extract, preferably 2% by mass.
[0045] Glycyrrhetinic acid (INCI name: Glycyrrhetinic Acid) is a component of licorice root. Glycyrrhetinic acid also blocks the synthesis of melanin by melanocytes by inhibiting tyrosinase activity. In addition, a composition according to the invention comprising Japanese lily of the valley extract, yarrow extract and glycyrrhetinic acid extract makes it possible to lighten or whiten the skin not only by inhibiting the elongation of melanocyte dendrites, but also by inhibiting the synthesis of melanin. These are complementary modes of action and the whitening or lightening effect of the cosmetic composition is then greatly improved, whether it is the instantaneous or long-term effect. The composition according to the invention comprises between 0.1% and 5% by mass of glycyrrhetinic acid, preferably 2% by mass.
[0046] 3-O ethyl ascorbate (INCI name: 3-O Ethyl Ascorbic Acid) is a molecule derived from vitamin C, soluble in water and oil. 3-O ethyl ascorbate inhibits the production of melanin by melanocytes and depigments the skin. In addition, a composition according to the invention comprising Japanese lily of the valley extract, yarrow extract and 3-0 ethyl ascorbate makes it possible to lighten or whiten the skin, not only by inhibiting the elongation of melanocyte dendrites, but also by inhibiting the synthesis of melanin. These are complementary modes of action and the whitening or lightening effect of the cosmetic composition is then greatly improved, whether it is the instantaneous or long-term effect. The composition according to the invention comprises between 0.1% and 5% by mass of 3-0 ethyl ascorbate, preferably 2% by mass. This molecule also gives the composition an anti-aging effect through its antioxidant properties.
[0047] Niacinamide (INCI name: Niacinamide) is a derivative of vitamin B3. Niacinamide inhibits the transfer of melanin to keratinocytes and stimulates collagen synthesis, which makes it possible to whiten, lighten and reduce the appearance of pigment spots on the skin. In addition, a composition according to the invention comprising Japanese lily of the valley extract, yarrow extract and niacinamide makes it possible to lighten or whiten the skin not only by inhibiting the elongation of melanocyte dendrites, but also by inhibiting the transfer of melanin to keratinocytes. These are complementary modes of action and the whitening or lightening effect of the cosmetic composition is then greatly improved, whether it is the instantaneous or long-term effect. The composition according to the invention comprises between 0.1% and 10% by mass of niacinamide, preferably 7% by mass.This molecule also gives the composition an anti-aging effect through its antioxidant properties.
[0048] Halidrys siliquosa (INCI name: Halidrys Siliquosa Extract) is a brown algae found in particular on the Northeast Atlantic coasts. Halidrys siliquosa extract inhibits melanin synthesis by reducing the activity of ty-rosinase. Halidrys siliquosa extract also inhibits the activity of ty-rosinase-related-protein 1 (TRP-1) and therefore reduces the amount of melanin transferred to keratinocytes. Furthermore, a composition according to the invention comprising Japanese lily of the valley extract, yarrow extract and Halidrys siliquosa extract makes it possible to lighten or whiten the skin not only by inhibiting the elongation of melanocyte dendrites, but also by inhibiting the synthesis of melanin and the transfer of melanin to keratinocytes.These are complementary modes of action and the whitening or lightening effect of the cosmetic composition is then greatly improved, whether it is the instantaneous or long-term effect. The composition according to the invention comprises between 0.1% and 5% by mass of Halidris siliquosa extract, preferably 2% by mass.
[0049] Tranexamic acid (INCI name: Tranexamic Acid) is an analogue of lysine synthesis. Tranexamic acid is a depigmenting agent that inhibits tyrosinase activity and therefore the production of melanin by melanocytes. In addition, a composition according to the invention comprising Japanese lily of the valley extract, yarrow extract and tranexamic acid makes it possible to lighten or whiten the skin not only by inhibiting the elongation of melanocyte dendrites, but also by inhibiting melanin synthesis. These are complementary modes of action and the whitening or lightening effect of the cosmetic composition is then greatly improved, whether it is the instantaneous or long-term effect. The composition according to the invention comprises between 2% and 5% by mass of tranexamic acid, preferably 3% by mass.
[0050] Bakuchiol (INCI name: Bakuchiol) is a compound derived from Babchi seeds. Bakuchiol reduces melanin synthesis by melanocytes. In addition, a composition according to the invention comprising Japanese lily of the valley extract, yarrow extract and bakuchiol makes it possible to lighten or whiten the skin not only by inhibiting the elongation of melanocyte dendrites, but also by inhibiting melanin synthesis. These are complementary modes of action and the whitening or lightening effect of the cosmetic composition is then greatly improved, whether it is the instantaneous or long-term effect. The composition according to the invention comprises between 2% and 5% by mass of bakuchiol, preferably 3% by mass. This molecule also gives the composition an anti-aging effect through its antioxidant properties.
[0051] Hydroxypinacolone retinoate (INCI name: Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate) is a retinol derivative. Hydroxypinacolone retinoate is a depigmenting agent that inhibits tyrosinase activity and therefore the production of melanin by melanocytes. In addition, a composition according to the invention comprising Japanese lily of the valley extract, yarrow extract and hydroxypinacolone retinoate makes it possible to lighten or whiten the skin not only by inhibiting the elongation of melanocyte dendrites, but also by inhibiting the synthesis of melanin. These are complementary modes of action and the whitening or lightening effect of the cosmetic composition is then greatly improved, whether it is the instantaneous or long-term effect. The composition according to the invention comprises between 0.1% and 5% by mass of hydroxypinacolone retinoate, preferably 2% by mass.
[0052] Vitamin E (INCI name: Tocopherol) is known for its antioxidant properties. Vitamin E also helps reduce melanin production by inhibiting tyrosinase activity. In addition, a composition according to the invention comprising Japanese lily of the valley extract, yarrow extract and vitamin E helps lighten or whiten the skin not only by inhibiting the elongation of melanocyte dendrites, but also by inhibiting melanin synthesis. These are complementary modes of action and the whitening or lightening effect of the cosmetic composition is then greatly improved, whether it is the instantaneous or long-term effect. The composition according to the invention comprises between 0.1% and 5% by mass of vitamin E, preferably 2% by mass.
[0053] Furthermore, the cosmetic composition according to the invention exhibits cosmetic effects, in particular whitening, lightening, and depigmentation of the skin, when used topically on the skin. These effects are linked to a synergistic effect of the Japanese lily of the valley extract and the yarrow extract. The effects of the composition can also be enhanced by additional cosmetic active ingredients possibly present in the composition.
[0054] Furthermore, a combination comprising a yarrow leaf extract and a lily of the valley root extract exhibits a skin whitening, lightening and / or depigmenting effect.
[0055] The inventor carried out tests to demonstrate the inhibitory effect on the elongation of melanocyte dendrites of the composition according to the invention.
[0056] More particularly, the inventor evaluated the in vitro effect of 3 products on the elongation of melanocyte dendrites of human melanocytes (HEMAs), in the presence of UVB irradiation. The three products analyzed are as follows: - Product PI: Japanese lily of the valley extract, - Product P2: yarrow extract, and - Product P3: solution comprising 50% by mass of Japanese lily of the valley extract and 50% by mass of yarrow extract.
[0057] Melanocytes are maintained in basal culture medium in an incubator at 5% CO2 and a temperature of 37°C. The culture medium is changed every four days.
[0058] The melanocytes are cultured in a medium allowing maintenance of cellular homeostasis. The melanocytes at low confluence are treated or not with one of the products PI to P3 at different concentrations: 0.01%, 0.1% and 1%. After 24 hours of incubation with the products PI, P2 or P3, the culture supernatant is removed and PBS buffer is deposited on the melanocytes. The cultures are then subjected or not to UVB irradiation (72 mJ / cm). The PBS culture supernatant is then removed and a 24-hour incubation of the cells in their culture medium is continued. The supernatant is then removed and the cells are washed. The cells are then fixed with a paraformaldehyde solution. The results are observed using a microscope.
[0059] The number of dendrites per cell as well as the length of each dendrite per cell are determined. This makes it possible to determine the average length of the dendrites per cell which is then equal to the sum of the lengths of the dendrites of a cell, divided by the number of dendrites of the cell.
[0060] The average length of the dendrites is then compared to a control batch which has not undergone any treatment with one of the products PI to P3.
[0061] In the absence of UVB irradiation, the results are as follows:
[0062] [Tables 1] Product Concentration (mass percentage) Average dendrite length per cell (in micrometers) Percent change from control Control Distilled water 14.80 0 PI 0.01 15.91 7.5 0.1 15.14 2.3 1 13.81 -6.7 P2 0.01 19.45 31.4 0.1 14.95 1.0 1 15.05 1.7 P3 0.01 17.32 17.0 0.1 14.71 -0.6 1 11.89 -19.6
[0063] It is noted that product P3 exhibits greater inhibition than products PI and P2, starting from a mass concentration of 0.1%.
[0064] This demonstrates the synergistic effect of Japanese lily of the valley extract and yarrow extract in inhibiting the elongation of melanocyte dendrites. A dose effect is also observed with an increase in inhibition when the concentration of product P3 increases from 0.1% by mass to 1% by mass.
[0065] Thus, in the absence of UVB irradiation and from a concentration greater than or equal to 0.1% by mass, the composition according to the invention makes it possible to inhibit the elongation of melanocyte dendrites.
[0066] In the presence of UVB irradiation, the results are as follows:
[0067] [Tables2] Product Concentration (mass percentage) Average dendrite length per cell (in micrometers) Percent change from control Control Distilled water 19.97 PI 0.01 16.42 -17.8 0.1 17.57 -12.0 1 17.51 -12.3 P2 0.01 20.11 0.7 0.1 18.67 -6.5 1 15.94 -20.2 P3 0.01 18.47 -7.5 0.1 15.26 -23.6 1 11.64 -41.7
[0068] It is noted that product P3 exhibits greater inhibition than products PI and P2, starting from a mass concentration of 0.1%.
[0069] This demonstrates the synergistic effect of Japanese lily of the valley extract and yarrow extract in inhibiting the elongation of melanocyte dendrites. A dose effect is also observed with an increase in inhibition when the concentration of product P3 increases from 0.1% by mass to 1% by mass.
[0070] Thus, in the presence of UVB irradiation and from a concentration greater than or equal to 0.1% by mass, the composition according to the invention makes it possible to inhibit the elongation of melanocyte dendrites.
[0071] Furthermore, it is found that the average length of the dendrites of the melanocytes treated with the product P3 at a concentration of 1% and in the presence of irradiation is lower than that of the non-irradiated control batch. The composition according to the invention makes it possible to compensate for the stimulatory effect of UVB on the length of the melanocyte dendrites.
[0072] The following description relates to examples of cosmetic compositions according to the invention.
[0073] Example 1: Depigmenting cosmetic cream.
[0074] The composition according to Example 1 comprises the following ingredients.
[0075] [Table 3] Phase Ingrédients (Dénomination INCI) Pourcentage massique (%) Al AQUA 40,99 Al GLYCERIN 5 A2 MICROCRYSTALLINE CELLULOSE (AND) CELLULOSE GUM 1,5 A3 ACACIA SENEGAL GUM (AND) XANTHAN GUM 0,5 A4 HYDROXYACETOPHENONE 0,5 B CETEARYL ALCOHOL (AND) GLYCERYL STEARATE (AND) JOJOBA ESTERS (AND) HE-LIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED WAX (AND) SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (AND) WATER (AND) POLYGLYCERIN-3 4 B C15-19 ALKANE 10 B TOCOPHEROL 0,5 B CETYL ALCOHOL 2 B GLYCERYL STEARATE CITRATE 2 C GLYCYRRHETINIC ACID 0,1 C PROPYLENE GLYCOL 2,7 D NIACINAMIDE 4 D AQUA 10 E ARBUTIN 0,25 E AQUA 4 F TRANEXAMIC ACID 0,5 F AQUA 3,5 G GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA ROOT EXTRACT 0,01 G PROPYLENE GLYCOL 0,4 H AQUA 5 H 3-O-ETHYL ASCORBIC ACID 0,5 H TRISODIUM CITRATE 0,2 H CITRIC ACID 0,03 I ACHILLEA MILLEFOLIUM FLOWER EXTRACT 0,95 J OPHIOPOGON JAPONICUS ROOT EXTRACT 0,05 K 1,2-HEXANEDIOL (AND) CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0,5 L CITRIC ACID 0,32
[0076] The composition according to example 1 is obtained according to the following procedure: 1. Preparation of aqueous phase A (A = A1+A2+A3+A4): a. Mix the ingredients of phase Al, b. Bring the Al mixture to a temperature of 75°C, c. Add phase A2 to phase Al, d. Shake the mixture Al+A2, e. Add phase A3 to mixture A1+A2, f. Shake the Al+A2+A3 mixture, g. Add phase A4 to mixture A1+A2+A3, h. Stir the Al+A2+A3+A4 mixture. 2. Preparation of the fatty phase (phase B): a. Mix the ingredients of phase B, b. Heat phase B. 3. Preparation of phase C: a. Mix the ingredients of phase C, b. Bring phase C to a temperature of 60°C while stirring. 4. Preparation of phase D: a. Mix the ingredients of phase D, b. Shake phase D. 5. Mix phase A and phase B and shake. 6. Add phase C to mixture A+B at a temperature of 60°C. 7. Add phase D to the A+B+C mixture at a temperature of 60°C. 8. Bring the mixture A+B+C+D to room temperature. 9. Prepare phase E by mixing the ingredients of phase E. 10. Add phase E to mixture A+B+C+D. 11. Prepare phase F by mixing the ingredients of phase F. 12. Add phase F to the A+B+C+D+E mixture. 13. Prepare phase G by mixing the ingredients of phase G. 14. Add phase G to mixture A+B+C+D+E+F. 15. Prepare phase H by mixing the ingredients of phase H. 16. Add phase H to mixture A+B+C+D+E+F+G. 17. Add the ingredients of phases I and J to the mixture A+B+C+D+E+F+G+H. 18. Add phase K to the mixture A+B+C+D+E+F+G+H+I+J to obtain the composition according to example 1. 19. Adjust, if necessary, the pH of the composition between 5 and 5.5 with phase L.
[0077] Example 2: Depigmenting cosmetic serum.
[0078] The composition according to Example 2 comprises the following ingredients.
[0079] [Tables4] Phase Ingrédients (Dénomination INCI) Pourcentage massique (%) Al AQUA 28,45 Al GLYCERIN 5 A2 MICROCRYSTALLINE CELLULOSE (AND) CELLULOSE GUM 1,5 A3 ACACIA SENEGAL GUM (AND) XANTHAN GUM 1 A4 HYDROXYACETOPHENONE 0,5 B POLYGLYCERYL-6 STEARATE (AND) POLY-GLYCEERYL-6 BEHENATE 2 B C15-19 ALKANE 10 B TOCOPHEROL 0,5 B BAKUCHIOL 0,1 B POLYGLYCERYL-6 DISTEARATE (AND) JOJOBA ESTERS (AND) POLYGLYCERYL-3 BEESWAX (AND) CETYL ALCOHOL 2 B CETYL ALCOHOL 2 B GLYCERYL STEARATE CITRATE 2 C GLYCYRRHETINIC ACID 0,1 C PROPYLENE GLYCOL 2,7 D NIACINAMIDE 4 D AQUA 10 E ARBUTIN 0,25 E AQUA 4 F TRANEXAMIC ACID 2 F AQUA 13,5 G GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRAROOT EXTRACT 0,01 G PROPYLENE GLYCOL 0,4 H GLYCERIN (AND) WATER (AND) HALIDRYS 0,5 SILIQUOSA EXTRACT I AQUA 5 I 3-O-ETHYL ASCORBIC ACID 0,5 I TRISODIUM CITRATE 0,2 I CITRIC ACID 0,03 J ACHILLEA MILLEFOLIUM FLOWER EXTRACT 0,05 K OPHIOPOGON JAPONICUS ROOT EXTRACT ( 0,95 L 1,2-HEXANEDIOL (AND) CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0,5 M CITRIC ACID 0,26
[0080] The composition according to example 2 is obtained according to the following procedure: 1. Preparation of aqueous phase A (A = A1+A2+A3+A4): a. Mix the ingredients of phase Al, b. Bring the Al mixture to a temperature of 75°C, c. Add phase A2 to phase Al, d. Shake the mixture Al+A2, e. Add phase A3 to mixture A1+A2, f. Shake the Al+A2+A3 mixture, g. Add phase A4 to mixture A1+A2+A3, h. Stir the Al+A2+A3+A4 mixture. 2. Preparation of the fatty phase (phase B): a. Mix the ingredients of phase B, b. Heat phase B. 3. Preparation of phase C: a. Mix the ingredients of phase C, b. Bring phase C to a temperature of 60°C while stirring. 4. Preparation of phase D: a. Mix the ingredients of phase D, b. Shake phase D. 5. Mix phase A and phase B and shake. 6. Add phase C to mixture A+B at a temperature of 60°C. 7. Add phase D to the A+B+C mixture at a temperature of 60°C. 8. Bring the mixture A+B+C+D to room temperature. 9. Prepare phase E by mixing the ingredients of phase E. 10. Add phase E to mixture A+B+C+D. 11. Prepare phase F by mixing the ingredients of phase F. 12. Add phase F to the A+B+C+D+E mixture. 13. Prepare phase G by mixing the ingredients of phase G. 14. Add phase G to mixture A+B+C+D+E+F. 15. Add the ingredient from phase H to the mixture A+B+C+D+E+F+G. 16. Prepare Phase I by mixing the Phase I ingredients. 17. Add phase I to the mixture A+B+C+D+E+F+G+H. 18. Add the ingredients of phases J and K to the mixture A+B+C+D+E+F+G+H+I. 19. Add phase L to the mixture A+B+C+D+E+F+G+H+I+J+K to obtain the composition according to example 2. 20. Adjust, if necessary, the pH of the composition between 5 and 5.5 with phase M.
[0081] Example 3: Depigmenting cosmetic serum.
[0082] The composition according to Example 3 comprises the following ingredients.
[0083] [Tables5] Phase Ingrédients (Dénomination INCI) Pourcentage massique (%) Al AQUA 28,45 Al GLYCERIN 5 A2 MICROCRYSTALLINE CELLULOSE (AND) CELLULOSE GUM 1,5 A3 ACACIA SENEGAL GUM (AND) XANTHAN GUM 1 A4 HYDROXYACETOPHENONE 0,5 B POLYGLYCERYL-6 STEARATE (AND) POLY-GLYCEERYL-6 BEHENATE 2 B C15-19 ALKANE 10 B TOCOPHEROL 0,5 B POLYGLYCERYL-6 DISTEARATE (AND) JOJOBA ESTERS (AND) POLYGLYCERYL-3 BEESWAX (AND) CETYL ALCOHOL 2 B CETYL ALCOHOL 2 B GLYCERYL STEARATE CITRATE 2 C GLYCYRRHETINIC ACID 0,1 C PROPYLENE GLYCOL 2,7 D NIACINAMIDE 4 D AQUA 10 E ARBUTIN 0,25 E AQUA 4 F TRANEXAMIC ACID 2 F AQUA 13,5 G GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA ROOT EXTRACT 0,01 G PROPYLENE GLYCOL 0,4 H DIMETHYL ISOSORBIDE (AND) HYDROXYPL NACOLONE RETINOATE 0,1 I GLYCERIN (AND) WATER (AND) HALIDRYS SILIQUOSA EXTRACT 0.5 J AQUA 5 J 3-O-ETHYL ASCORBIC ACID 0.5 J TRISODIUM CITRATE 0.2 J CITRIC ACID 0.03 K ACHILLEA MILLEFOLIUM FLOWER EXTRACT 0.5 L OPHIOPOGON JAPONICUS ROOT EXTRACT 0.5 M 1,2-HEXANEDIOL (AND) CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.5 N CITRIC ACID 0.26
[0084] The composition according to example 3 is obtained according to the following procedure: 1. Preparation of aqueous phase A (A = A1+A2+A3+A4): a. Mix the ingredients of phase Al, b. Bring the Al mixture to a temperature of 75°C, c. Add phase A2 to phase Al, d. Shake the mixture Al+A2, e. Add phase A3 to mixture A1+A2, f. Shake the Al+A2+A3 mixture, g. Add phase A4 to mixture A1+A2+A3, h. Stir the Al+A2+A3+A4 mixture. 2. Preparation of the fatty phase (phase B): a. Mix the ingredients of phase B, b. Heat phase B. 3. Preparation of phase C: a. Mix the ingredients of phase C, b. Bring phase C to a temperature of 60°C while stirring. 4. Preparation of phase D: a. Mix the ingredients of phase D, b. Shake phase D. 5. Mix phase A and phase B and shake. 6. Add phase C to mixture A+B at a temperature of 60°C. 7. Add phase D to the A+B+C mixture at a temperature of 60°C. 8. Bring the mixture A+B+C+D to room temperature. 9. Prepare phase E by mixing the ingredients of phase E. 10. Add phase E to mixture A+B+C+D. 11. Prepare phase F by mixing the ingredients of phase F. 12. Add phase F to the A+B+C+D+E mixture. 13. Prepare phase G by mixing the ingredients of phase G. 14. Add phase G to mixture A+B+C+D+E+F. 15. Add the ingredients of phases H and I to the mixture A+B+C+D+E+F+G. 16. Prepare phase J by mixing the ingredients of phase I. 17. Add phase J to mixture A+B+C+D+E+F+G+H+I. 18. Add the ingredients of phases K and L to the mixture A+B+C+D+E+F+G+H+I+J. 19. Add phase M to the mixture A+B+C+D+E+F+G+H+I+J+K+L to obtain the composition according to example 3. 20. Adjust, if necessary, the pH of the composition between 5 and 5.5 with phase N.
[0085] Example 4: Depigmenting cosmetic cream.
[0086] The composition according to Example 4 comprises the following ingredients.
[0087] [Table 6] Phase Ingrédients (Dénomination INCI) Pourcentage massique (%) Al AQUA 33,99 Al GLYCERIN 5 A2 MICROCRYSTALLINE CELLULOSE (AND) CELLULOSE GUM 1,5 A3 ACACIA SENEGAL GUM (AND) XANTHAN GUM 0,5 A4 HYDROXYACETOPHENONE 0,5 B CETEARYL ALCOHOL (AND) GLYCERYL STEARATE (AND) JOJOBA ESTERS (AND) HE-LIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED WAX (AND) SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (AND) WATER (AND) POLYGLYCERIN-3 4 B C15-19 ALKANE 10 B TOCOPHEROL 0,5 B CETYL ALCOHOL 2 B GLYCERYL STEARATE CITRATE 2 C GLYCYRRHETINIC ACID 0,1 C PROPYLENE GLYCOL 2,7 D NIACINAMIDE 4 D AQUA 10 E ARBUTIN 0,25 E AQUA 4 F TRANEXAMIC ACID 0,5 F AQUA 3,5 G GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA ROOT EXTRACT 0,01 G PROPYLENE GLYCOL 0,4 H AQUA 5 H 3-O-ETHYL ASCORBIC ACID 0,5 H TRISODIUM CITRATE 0,2 H CITRIC ACID 0,03 I ACHILLEA MILLEFOLIUM FLOWER EXTRACT 7 J OPHIOPOGON JAPONICUS ROOT EXTRACT 1 K 1,2-HEXANEDIOL (AND) CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0,5 L CITRIC ACID 0,32
[0088] The composition according to example 4 is obtained according to the following procedure: 1. Preparation of aqueous phase A (A = A1+A2+A3+A4): a. Mix the ingredients of phase Al, b. Bring the Al mixture to a temperature of 75°C, c. Add phase A2 to phase Al, d. Shake the mixture Al+A2, e. Add phase A3 to mixture A1+A2, f. Shake the Al+A2+A3 mixture, g. Add phase A4 to mixture A1+A2+A3, h. Stir the Al+A2+A3+A4 mixture. 2. Preparation of the fatty phase (phase B): a. Mix the ingredients of phase B, b. Heat phase B. 3. Preparation of phase C: a. Mix the ingredients of phase C, b. Bring phase C to a temperature of 60°C while stirring. 4. Preparation of phase D: a. Mix the ingredients of phase D, b. Shake phase D. 5. Mix phase A and phase B and shake. 6. Add phase C to mixture A+B at a temperature of 60°C. 7. Add phase D to the A+B+C mixture at a temperature of 60°C. 8. Bring the mixture A+B+C+D to room temperature. 9. Prepare phase E by mixing the ingredients of phase E. 10. Add phase E to mixture A+B+C+D. 11. Prepare phase F by mixing the ingredients of phase F. 12. Add phase F to the A+B+C+D+E mixture. 13. Prepare phase G by mixing the ingredients of phase G. 14. Add phase G to mixture A+B+C+D+E+F. 15. Prepare phase H by mixing the ingredients of phase H. 16. Add phase H to mixture A+B+C+D+E+F+G. 17. Add the ingredients of phases I and J to the mixture A+B+C+D+E+F+G+H. 18. Add phase K to the mixture A+B+C+D+E+F+G+H+I+J to obtain the composition according to example 4. 19. Adjust, if necessary, the pH of the composition between 5 and 5.5 with phase L.
[0089] Example 5: Depigmenting cosmetic serum.
[0090] The composition according to Example 5 comprises the following ingredients.
[0091] [Tables?] Phase Ingrédients (Dénomination INCI) Pourcentage massique (%) Al AQUA 21,45 Al GLYCERIN 5 A2 MICROCRYSTALLINE CELLULOSE (AND) CELLULOSE GUM 1,5 A3 ACACIA SENEGAL GUM (AND) XANTHAN GUM 1 A4 HYDROXYACETOPHENONE 0,5 B POLYGLYCERYL-6 STEARATE (AND) POLY-GLYCEERYL-6 BEHENATE 2 B C15-19 ALKANE 10 B TOCOPHEROL 0,5 B POLYGLYCERYL-6 DISTEARATE (AND) JOJOBA ESTERS (AND) POLYGLYCERYL-3 BEESWAX (AND) CETYL ALCOHOL 2 B CETYL ALCOHOL 2 B GLYCERYL STEARATE CITRATE 2 C GLYCYRRHETINIC ACID 0,1 C PROPYLENE GLYCOL 2,7 D NIACINAMIDE 4 D AQUA 10 E ARBUTIN 0,25 E AQUA 4 F TRANEXAMIC ACID 2 F AQUA 13,5 G GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA ROOT EXTRACT 0,01 G PROPYLENE GLYCOL 0,4 H DIMETHYL ISOSORBIDE (AND) HYDROXYPL NACOLONE RETINOATE 0,1 I GLYCERIN (AND) WATER (AND) HALIDRYS SILIQUOSA EXTRACT 0.5 J AQUA 5 J 3-O-ETHYL ASCORBIC ACID 0.5 J TRISODIUM CITRATE 0.2 J CITRIC ACID 0.03 K ACHILLEA MILLEFOLIUM FLOWER EXTRACT 1 L OPHIOPOGON JAPONICUS ROOT EXTRACT 7 M 1,2-HEXANEDIOL (AND) CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.5 N CITRIC ACID 0.26
[0092] The composition according to example 5 is obtained according to the following procedure: 1. Preparation of aqueous phase A (A = A1+A2+A3+A4): a. Mix the ingredients of phase Al, b. Bring the Al mixture to a temperature of 75°C, c. Add phase A2 to phase Al, d. Stir the Al+A2 mixture, e. Add phase A3 to mixture A1+A2, f. Shake the Al+A2+A3 mixture, g. Add phase A4 to mixture A1+A2+A3, h. Stir the Al+A2+A3+A4 mixture. 2. Preparation of the fatty phase (phase B): a. Mix the ingredients of phase B, b. Heat phase B. 3. Preparation of phase C: a. Mix the ingredients of phase C, b. Bring phase C to a temperature of 60°C while stirring. 4. Preparation of phase D: a. Mix the ingredients of phase D, b. Shake phase D. 5. Mix phase A and phase B and shake. 6. Add phase C to mixture A+B at a temperature of 60°C. 7. Add phase D to the A+B+C mixture at a temperature of 60°C. 8. Bring the mixture A+B+C+D to room temperature. 9. Prepare phase E by mixing the ingredients of phase E. 10. Add phase E to mixture A+B+C+D. 11. Prepare phase F by mixing the ingredients of phase F. 12. Add phase F to the A+B+C+D+E mixture. 13. Prepare phase G by mixing the ingredients of phase G. 14. Add phase G to mixture A+B+C+D+E+F. 15. Add the ingredients of phases H and I to the mixture A+B+C+D+E+F+G. 16. Prepare phase J by mixing the ingredients of phase I. 17. Add phase J to mixture A+B+C+D+E+F+G+H+I. 18. Add the ingredients of phases K and L to the mixture A+B+C+D+E+F+G+H+I+J. 19. Add phase M to the mixture A+B+C+D+E+F+G+H+I+J+K+L to obtain the composition according to example 5. 20. Adjust, if necessary, the pH of the composition between 5 and 5.5 with phase N.
[0093] The invention further relates to the use as a depigmenting, whitening and / or lightening cosmetic agent of a combination comprising an extract of yarrow leaves and an extract of Japanese lily of the valley roots.
Claims
Claims
1. A cosmetic composition for lightening or whitening skin by inhibiting the elongation of melanocyte dendrites, comprising a Japanese lily of the valley extract and a yarrow extract.
2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises between 0.05% by mass and 10% by mass of Japanese lily of the valley extract.
3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it comprises between 0.05% by mass and 10% by mass of yarrow extract.
4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the Japanese lily of the valley extract is an extract of Japanese lily of the valley roots.
5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the yarrow extract is an extract of yarrow flowers or floral tops.
6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises alpha arbutin, licorice root extract, glycyrrhetinic acid, vitamin E, 3-O ethyl ascorbate, niacinamide, Halidrys Siliquosa extract, tranexamic acid, bakuchiol and / or hydroxypinacollone retinoate.
7. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a gel, emulsion, cream, milk, lotion, serum, essence, oil, wax, stick, powder or encapsulated.
8. Cosmetic use of a composition according to any one of the preceding claims, for lightening or whitening the skin by inhibiting the elongation of melanocyte dendrites.
9. Cosmetic use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, for a depigmenting effect.
10. Cosmetic use of an extract of yarrow leaves and an extract of Japanese lily of the valley roots as skin depigmenting, whitening and / or lightening agents.
Citation Information
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