Spiraea ulmaria extract and its cosmetic uses to regulate the abundance of Staphylococcus hominis

Abstract

The present invention relates to the use of a cosmetic active ingredient comprising an extract of Spiraea ulmaria, the latter comprising molecules such as proanthocyanidols and ellagitannins including tellimagrandins. The invention relates to particular uses of this active ingredient which preserves the diversity and balance of the skin microbiota, acts on and controls the abundance of Staphylococcus hominis and / or inhibits the CS lyase activity of Staphylococcus hominis in order to reduce the production of malodorous volatile thiol compounds and / or strengthens the barrier function, in order to limit skin sensitivity and soothe sensitive skin.

Description

Title of the invention: Extract of Spiraea ulmaria and its cosmetic uses for regulating the abundance of Staphylococcus hominis Technical field

[0001] The invention relates to the field of cosmetics and well-being and concerns the use of a cosmetic active ingredient comprising an extract of Spiraea ulmaria, this comprises molecules such as proanthocyanidols and ellagitannins, in particular tellimagrandins. The invention relates to particular uses of this active ingredient with a dual action, in particular to regulate the abundance of Staphylococcus hominis, inhibit the CS lyase activity of Staphylococcus hominis, and strengthen the barrier function, while preserving the diversity and balance of the skin microbiota. State of the art

[0002] On a daily basis, the human body evacuates an average of 0.5 liters of sweat per day. Contrary to popular belief, perspiration is not only a normal phenomenon but also a vital one. It helps regulate body temperature. Regarding the underarm area, the use of deodorant has long been a daily routine. Once reduced to a basic anti-odor solution, deodorant is now positioned to combine hygiene and skin care.

[0003] Three main strategies are used to protect against unpleasant odors related to perspiration, namely preventing the secretion of sweat, eliminating bacteria from the axillary microbiota or masking unpleasant odors. The antiperspirant strategy is not very physiological since it prevents sweat from being released on the surface of the skin. The antiseptic strategy uses broad-spectrum antimicrobial agents that do not respect the balance of the axillary skin microbiota. In addition, the antiseptic products used are skin irritants, allergens, or even suspected of being endocrine disruptors. In addition, the perfumes used to mask unpleasant odors from perspiration constitute an additional source of irritation for the skin of the armpits.

[0004] Thus, the daily use of deodorant impacts the skin of the armpits, which is particularly prone to irritation and consequently has increased skin sensitivity. However, consumers do not have alternative solutions to replace deodorant.

[0005] In addition, the skin sensitivity induced by the thinness of the skin of the armpits is also accentuated by perspiration. Indeed, this skin area is attacked by the humidity accumulated in the hollow of the arm due to the production of sweat which promotes irritations of this delicate area, just like shaving, friction, the use of certain hygiene products (chemicals, perfumes, etc.) or heat. These irritations constitute an additional source of discomfort for the armpits and justify the need to develop dedicated care products.

[0006] In this context, there is a need for new cosmetic and well-being solutions that respect the condition of the skin in the axillary areas, i.e., taking into account its fineness, its potential to react to aggressions and respect for its microbiota. These solutions are intended to strengthen the skin barrier in order to relieve sensitive skin while preserving the skin microbiota, particularly that of the armpits, i.e., by maintaining its diversity and balance.

[0007] Among a multitude of potential candidates, the inventor was particularly interested in meadowsweet to develop a new cosmetic active ingredient. Extracts of meadowsweet are already known to combat unpleasant odors; they act according to a broad-spectrum antimicrobial strategy and therefore destroy the entire microbial population indiscriminately, thus unbalancing the skin microbiota.

[0008] However, the inventor, during his research work, developed a new hygiene and care active ingredient, from meadowsweet, which overcomes the drawbacks of the prior art and makes it possible to act on the abundance of S. hominis and strengthen the skin barrier in order to soothe sensitive skin while preserving the diversity of the skin microbiota of the axillary area. This new active ingredient is, moreover, natural and respectful of axillary skin physiology. Summary of the invention

[0009] Thus, the invention relates to the use of a cosmetic active ingredient comprising an extract of Spiraea ulmaria, said extract comprising proanthocyanidols and el-lagitanins, in particular tellimagrandins.

[0010] Preferably, the active ingredient according to the invention comprises at least tellima-grandin I and tellimagrandin II, thus constituting all or part of the tellimagrandins of the Spiraea ulmaria extract. The presence of these molecules, unlike the extracts known from the prior art, makes it possible to act on, regulate, limit, reduce, control the abundance of S. hominis, as well as to limit, reduce, inhibit its thiol-producing enzymatic activity, while preserving the diversity of the skin microbiota. The presence of these molecules also makes it possible to strengthen the skin barrier function by reducing the inflammation of damaged skin in order to relieve underarm irritations.

[0011] According to a preferred subject of the invention, the proanthocyanidols are chosen from the molecules of the group consisting of procyanidin B5, procyanidin C2 and its derivatives, dimeric procyanidin B2 3-gallate, tetrameric procyanidin, and their mixture.

[0012] In addition, the extract advantageously comprises peptides and carbohydrates.

[0013] Preferably, the extract constituting the cosmetic active ingredient according to the present invention is a hydroglycolic extract of Spiraea ulmaria (or also called Fi-lipendula ulmaria).

[0014] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the active ingredient according to the invention is obtained by a process comprising the following steps: a. Solubilization of Spiraea ulmaria in a mixture consisting of water and butylene glycol (25:75), b. Separation of soluble and insoluble phases, c. Filtration of the soluble phase, d. Selective elimination of polyphenols by absorption, and e. Sterilizing filtration.

[0015] The presence and enrichment of tellhnagrandins in the extract of Spiraea ulmaria thus makes it possible to obtain a cosmetic active ingredient exhibiting at least one of the following cosmetic efficacies while preserving the diversity of the skin microbiota, namely controlling, limiting the abundance of Staphylococcus hominis and / or inhibiting, reducing, limiting the CS lyase activity of S. hominis in order to reduce the production of malodorous volatile thiol compounds and / or preserving the barrier function in order to limit the skin sensitivity of the axillary area.

[0016] Thus, the invention also relates, according to another aspect, to the cosmetic use of a cosmetic active ingredient comprising an extract of Spiraea ulmaria, said extract comprising proanthocyanidols and ellagitannins, preferentially tellimagrandins, these having a specific antibacterial activity on Staphylococcus hominis and / or inhibiting, reducing CS lyase activity in order to reduce the production of volatile thiol compounds and / or preserving the barrier function, while respecting the diversity of the skin microbiota.

[0017] Preferably, the active ingredient according to the invention controls and limits the abundance of Staphylococcus hominis without modifying the diversity of the bacterial communities in the area where it is used.

[0018] According to a complementary aspect, the invention also aims to strengthen the skin barrier function and reduce the markers of skin inflammation in order to relieve skin irritations of the armpits. The invention thus relates to the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention, for its use in combating skin irritation.

[0019] Finally, according to another object, the invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least 0.1% of an active ingredient according to any one of the preceding embodiments, by weight of the total weight of the composition.

[0020] Other characteristics and advantages will emerge from the detailed description of the invention, the examples and the figures which follow. Brief description of the Figure

[0021] [Fig.l] represents the chromatographic profile (LC / MS) of the extract according to the invention at 280nm.

[0022] [Fig.2] represents the differences in the intensities of Procyanidin B5 between the extract according to the invention (in solid line), the product of example 2 (with dashes) and the product of example 3 (in dotted line).

[0023] [Fig.3] represents the differences in the intensities of Tellimagrandin I between the extract according to the invention (in solid line), the product of example 2 (with dashes) and the product of example 3 (in dotted line). Detailed description of the invention

[0024] Definition

[0025] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "Spiraea ulmaria extract" means a mixture of at least two molecules obtained from a raw material, namely meadowsweet, i.e. the species Spiraea ulmaria also known as Filipendula ulmaria, regardless of the extraction method of said molecules. It may, for example, be an extract obtained by aqueous and / or hydroalcoholic and / or hydroglycolic extraction. Preferably, the extract is a hydroglycolic extract of Spiraea ulmaria.

[0026] For the purposes of the invention, the term "hydroglycolic extract of Spiraea ulmaria" means an extract from the plant species Spiraea ulmaria, also called Filipendula ulmaria or meadowsweet, obtained by a process comprising at least one extraction step in a mixture consisting of water and butylene glycol of Spiraea ulmaria, preferably 25% water and 75% butylene glycol.

[0027] By "active ingredient" within the meaning of the invention, we mean an extract comprising at least one molecule, preferably a set of molecules having a cosmetic effect, in particular when applied topically, in particular the cosmetic effect is a soothing, anti-irritant effect, controlling the diversity of the skin microbiota, or fighting against axillary skin dysbiosis.

[0028] For the purposes of the invention, the term “sensitive skin” means generally thin skin, characterized by an altered barrier function and a high sensitivity threshold (or a reduced tolerance threshold) resulting in occasional inflammations (erythema).

[0029] By "conserving the diversity of the skin microbiota" within the meaning of the invention, we mean an action which aims to control the abundance of S. hominis, by not modifying the viability of the aerobic and anaerobic flora of the skin microbiota.

[0030] By "Staphylococcus hominis" or "S. hominis" is meant a commensal bacterium of the skin whose presence is not linked to any pathology. It is also the best-known example, among the bacteria of the skin microbiota, for its ability to transform one of the odorless molecules contained in sweat into a smelly volatile compound of the thiol family.

[0031] Cosmetic uses

[0032] According to a first aspect, the invention relates to the cosmetic use of the cosmetic active ingredient according to any one of the embodiments described below, namely its cosmetic use to specifically target the bacteria responsible for odors. For this, the cosmetic use of the cosmetic active ingredient controls and reduces the relative abundance of S. hominis and / or reduces, inhibits the CS lyase activity of S. hominis while preserving the diversity of the skin microbiota. Thus, the active ingredient does not destroy the entire skin microbiota. According to another object, the invention targets the biological pathways for reinforcing the barrier function, by reducing the expression of markers of skin irritation and by reinforcing the physical and immune barrier function and by limiting the TEWL (transepidermal water loss).

[0033] Thus, the invention makes it possible to meet consumer expectations not met by the prior art. To achieve this dual action, the extract constituting the active ingredient according to the invention is enriched with proanthocyanidols and ellagitannins, more particularly the extract comprises tellimagrandins, more preferably tellimagrandin I and tellimagrandin II.

[0034] The active ingredient according to the invention also makes it possible to regulate, control, or limit the abundance of Staphylococcus hominis while preserving the diversity and balance of the skin microbiota. Thus, according to a preferred object, the invention aims at the cosmetic use of the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention to control, or limit the abundance of Staphylococcus hominis. For this purpose, the active ingredient according to the invention is not broad-spectrum antibacterial and / or antiseptic and does not destroy all of the bacterial flora. It regulates the abundance of Staphylococcus hominis by maintaining the diversity of the bacterial communities making up the axillary skin microbiota. Consequently, the active ingredient according to the invention also participates in the fight against skin odors, unlike the extracts of Spiraea ulmaria known from the prior art which destroy the bacterial flora indiscriminately.Advantageously, the invention also aims to combat odors by preserving the diversity of the skin microbiota and regulating the abundance of Staphylococcus hominis. Preferably, the active ingredient according to the invention significantly reduces the relative abundance of S. hominis without modifying the diversity of the aerobic or anaerobic bacterial flora.

[0035] According to a variant, the invention also relates to the active ingredient according to the invention for its use in preserving the diversity of the skin microbiota, and / or limiting the abundance of Staphylococcus hominis, and / or inhibiting the CS lyase activity of Staphylococcus hominis.

[0036] According to one subject of the invention, the invention relates to the active ingredient according to the invention for its use in combating skin irritation, or in reducing skin irritation.

[0037] Active ingredient according to the invention

[0038] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic active ingredient comprising at least one extract obtained from Spiraea ulmaria, said extract comprising proanthocyanidols and ellagitannins, preferably tellima-grandins.

[0039] In the context of the invention, meadowsweet (Spiraea ulmaria L. or Filipendula ulmaria) is one of the most recognized plants for its medicinal virtues since it is attributed numerous properties. The flowering tops are particularly renowned for their analgesic, antipyretic and anti-inflammatory actions. However, no extract of Spiraea ulmaria enriched with ellagitannins is known to have specific antibacterial efficacy on Staphylococcus hominis, to inhibit or limit the CS lyase activity of Staphylococcus hominis, to strengthen the barrier function and to reduce the markers of skin inflammation while preserving the diversity of the skin microbiota of the auxiliary zone.

[0040] Meadowsweet is naturally rich in polyphenols and the inventor has remarkably exploited it in order to obtain an extract enriched in proanthocyanidols as well as in ellagitannins of interest, particularly in tellimagrandins.

[0041] The polyphenols composing the extract according to the invention are mainly ellagitannins, proanthocyanidols and gallotannins.

[0042] Thus, the extract advantageously comprises at least one phenolic constituent chosen from the phenolic constituents of the group consisting of casuarinine, rugosine A, rugosine D, rugosine derivatives, rugosine E, tellimagrandine I, tellimagrandine II, tri-galloylhexoside derivative, digalloylhexoside, Procyanidin B5, Procyanidin C2, Pro-cyanidin C2 derivative, Procyanidin dimer B2 3-gallate, Procyanidin tetramer, and their mixture.

[0043] Very preferably, the extract comprises at least tellimagrandin I and tellimagrandin IL.

[0044] The extract comprises proanthocyanidols, these are preferentially from the group consisting of procyanidin B5, procyanidin C2 and its derivatives, dimeric procyanidin B2 3-gallate, tetrameric procyanidin, and their mixture.

[0045] Finally, the inventor continued the analysis of the extract according to the invention and thus found that it advantageously comprises peptides and carbohydrates.

[0046] To improve and optimize the extraction of compounds of interest, namely proanthocyanidols and ellagitannins, in particular tellimagrandins, the extract is obtained using a hydroglycolic extraction, by a mixture consisting of water and butylene glycol (25:75). Thus, the extract of Spiraea ulmaria according to the invention is a hy- droglycolic.

[0047] Finally, the extract is capable of being obtained by a process comprising at least the following steps: a. Solubilization of Spiraea ulmaria in a mixture of water and butylene glycol (25:75), b. Separation of soluble and insoluble phases, c. Filtration of the soluble phase, d. Selective elimination of polyphenols by absorption, and e. Sterilizing filtration.

[0048] Also, a first form of the active ingredient according to the invention is obtained comprising at least the extract of Spiraea ulmaria as described previously.

[0049] The cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention may also advantageously comprise at least one other ingredient such as a preservative, an antioxidant, a stabilizer, an atomization support, a mineral filler, a polymer, a plasticizer, a surfactant and / or their combination.

[0050] The extract according to the invention present in the cosmetic active ingredient can then be presented in liquid form or in solid form or in film form.

[0051] When it is in liquid form, the active ingredient according to the invention may consist of the extract of Spiraea ulmaria accompanied by a stabilizer and / or preservation system.

[0052] The extract in liquid form is preferably in the form of a clear liquid solution, with a characteristic odor and an amber color.

[0053] When it is in liquid form, the dry matter content of the extract can be determined by weighing the residues resulting from drying the extract according to the invention at 105°C in an oven until a constant weight is obtained. Preferably, the extract according to the invention in liquid form has a dry matter content of between 10 and 25 g / L, preferably between 12 and 20 g / L.

[0054] The polyphenol content of the active ingredient according to the invention was characterized by the inventor. This quantification is carried out by colorimetric assay compared to a standard range of gallic acid. The polyphenol content of the active ingredient according to the invention is between 12.5 and 33.5% by weight of dry matter. An analysis of the polyphenols constituting the extract was carried out by liquid chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry and UV detection. The identification of the main species was carried out by comparison of the exact masses of the ions detected in MS and of the fragments obtained in MS / MS with the standards of these molecules.

[0055] The inventor also sought to determine and quantify the content of sugars, polyphenols, ash, proteins and organic acids forming the active ingredient according to the invention.

[0056] Total sugars are measured using the DUBOIS method (Dubois M. et al., Analytical chemistry, 28, 3, 350-356, 1956). The carbohydrate composition and their respective molar masses were determined respectively by ion chromatography and Size Exclusion Chromatography (UPLC-SEC). The carbohydrates of the active ingredient according to the invention are 50% monosaccharides and 50% oligosaccharides and polysaccharides. Furthermore, the molar mass of the carbohydrates is between 180 and 3,780 Da.

[0057] Carbohydrates are preferentially composed of glucose, fructose, sucrose, xylose, and glucuronic acid.

[0058] The protein content is determined by the KJELDHAL method (reference: Official method of analysis of the AOC 1975, 12th ed. W Horwitz, ED, New York, p. 15-60). The molar mass of the proteins present in the extract according to the invention was also determined by molecular filtration FPLC (Fast Protein Liquid Chromatography). It emerges that the majority of the peptides in the extract according to the invention advantageously have a molar mass of less than 2,000 Da.

[0059] The raw ash content is determined by weighing the residues from incineration at 550°C in an electric muffle furnace. The organic acid content is determined by ion chromatography, and the quantification of polyphenols is carried out by colorimetric assay.

[0060] In the case where it is in solid form, the active ingredient according to the invention could consist of the extract of Spiraea ulmaria as previously described and of a support chosen from maltodextrin, gum arabic or soy lecithin. According to a particularly suitable embodiment, the extract represents at least 10% by weight of the active ingredient and the support at most 90% by weight of the active ingredient.

[0061] In the case of a solid form in which the active ingredient is associated with a support, the contents of polyphenols, sugars and proteins relative to the dry matter in the active ingredient can be modified since the supports (maltodextrin, gum arabic) are exclusively saccharides.

[0062] The active ingredient according to the invention can also be presented in the form of a film as described in patent FR3079145. In this case, the extract of Spiraea ulmaria represents at least 0.1% by weight of the film.

[0063] When presented in film form, the active ingredient comprises: at least the extract of Spiraea ulmaria according to the invention. at least one mineral charge, and at least one polymer of natural origin, and at least one plasticizer, and at least one surfactant.

[0064] The polymer of natural origin can be chosen from: pectin, tamarind gum, alginate, pullulan, psyllium, xanthan, guar, tara, carob, agar, gum arabic, gellan, dextran, carrageenan, cellulose, konjac and chitosan.

[0065] The plasticizer can be chosen from: glycerol, sorbitol, sucrose, erythritol, urea, propylene glycol and butylene glycol.

[0066] The mineral filler can be chosen from: calcium carbonate, green clay, kaolin, perlite, talc, magnesium silicate, mica, diatomaceous sericite, silica, calcium sulfate, calcium chloride, potassium chloride, iron oxide and zinc oxide.

[0067] Finally, the active ingredient may further comprise a pigment for coloring the film.

[0068] Process for preparing the extract according to the invention

[0069] The extraction process comprises at least one extraction step from Spiraea ulmaria, such as at least one hydroglycolic extraction, preferably at least one hydroglycolic extraction using a mixture consisting of water and butylene glycol (25:75).

[0070] According to a particularly suitable embodiment, the active ingredient according to the invention is obtained by implementing the following steps: a. Solubilization of Spiraea ulmaria in a mixture consisting of water and butylene glycol (25:75), b. Separation of the soluble and insoluble phases, c. Filtration of the soluble phase, d. Selective elimination of polyphenols by absorption, and e. Sterilizing filtration.

[0071] The solubilization is carried out with a mixture containing 25% water and 75% butylene glycol chosen to improve the extraction of the polyphenols of interest. The separation of the soluble and insoluble phase is carried out by any means known to those skilled in the art, for example by centrifugation, filtration or decantation. The separation of the soluble and insoluble phases is carried out to recover the soluble phase containing the polyphenols of interest.

[0072] One or two successive steps of selective elimination by absorption are carried out on the extract obtained at this stage. This step can be carried out using an ion exchange resin, activated carbon or polyvinyl polypyrrolidone (PVPP).

[0073] The extract obtained at this stage is an extract of Spiraea ulmaria, and constitutes a form of the active ingredient according to the invention, then appearing in liquid form.

[0074] The steps of the processes described above, taken individually, are customary in the field of extractions of active ingredients from natural raw materials and those skilled in the art are able to adjust the reaction parameters on the basis of their general knowledge.

[0075] Cosmetic compositions according to the invention

[0076] The active ingredient according to the invention is intended to be integrated into a cosmetic composition, in particular a composition comprising at least 0.1% by weight of said active ingredient and a physiologically acceptable medium, preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium.

[0077] These compositions may be presented in particular in the form of oil-in-water emulsions, water-in-oil emulsions, multiple emulsions (Water / Oil / Water or Oil / Water / Oil) which may optionally be microemulsions or nanoemulsions, or in the form of solutions, suspensions, hydrodispersions, aqueous gels, powders, or in the form of a film. They may be more or less fluid and have the appearance of creams, emulsions, gels, masks or any other aspects known to those skilled in the art.

[0078] Preferably, these may be compositions comprising between 0.1 and 20% of the active ingredient according to the invention, in particular in liquid form, more preferably between 0.5 and 10%.

[0079] These compositions comprise, in addition to the active ingredient, a physiologically acceptable medium such as a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say which does not cause feelings of discomfort for the user such as redness, tightness or tingling.

[0080] The compositions according to the invention may also contain as an ingredient at least one compound chosen from: oils, which may be chosen in particular from silicone oils, linear or cyclic, volatile or non-volatile, waxes, such as ozokerite, polyethylene wax, beeswax or camauba wax, silicone elastomers, surfactants, preferably emulsifying surfactants, whether non-ionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric, co-surfactants, such as linear fatty alcohols, thickeners and / or gelling agents, humectants, such as polyols like glycerin, colorants, preservatives, fillers, the tensors, sequestrants, perfumes, and their mixtures, without this list being exhaustive.

[0081] Examples of such ingredients are cited in particular in the CTFA Dictionary (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook) published by the Personal Care Product Council.

[0082] Of course, the person skilled in the art will take care to choose the possible complementary compounds, active or non-active, and their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the mixture are not, or not significantly, altered by the envisaged addition.

[0083] The invention is now illustrated by non-limiting examples of active ingredients and compositions according to the invention and by results. Examples

[0084] Example 1: Active ingredient according to the invention

[0085] The active ingredient of Example 1 is obtained from Meadowsweet of the species Spiraea ulmaria. The active ingredient of Example 1 is obtained by the following process: a. Solubilization of Spiraea ulmaria in a mixture consisting of water and butylene glycol (25:75), b. Separation of soluble and insoluble phases, c. Filtration of the soluble phase, d. Selective elimination of polyphenols by absorption, and e. Sterilizing filtration.

[0086] The active ingredient according to example 1 consists of an extract of Spiraea ulmaria having in particular the following characteristics: - Dry Matter Content = 15.9 g / L - Polyphenol content (by colorimetric assay) = 26% by weight of dry matter - Total Sugar Content (according to the Dubois method) = 52% by weight of dry matter - Protein content (according to the Kjeldhal method) = 6% by weight of dry matter - Mineral ash content = 13% by weight of dry matter - Organic acid content = 3% by weight of dry matter

[0087] Example 2: Active ingredient outside the invention

[0088] The product of Example 2 is obtained from an extract of the species Spiraea ulmaria by the following process: a. Solubilization of Spiraea ulmaria in a mixture of water and butylene glycol (50:50), b. Selective elimination of a portion of the polyphenols by adsorption, c. Separation of soluble and insoluble phases, d. Filtration of the soluble phase, e. Sterilizing filtration.

[0089] The product of Example 2 consists of an extract of Spiraea ulmaria having including the following characteristics: - Dry Matter Content: 19.1 g / L - Polyphenol content: 4.76% by weight of dry matter.

[0090] The chromatographic profile of the product of Example 2 was compared with that of the active ingredient according to the invention. It is clear that the polyphenol composition of the two products is very different. In fact, the product of Example 2 does not contain, in particular, Procyanidin B5 (see [Fig.2]), nor Tellimagrandin I (see [Fig.3]).

[0091] Example 3: Active ingredient outside the invention

[0092] The product of Example 3 is obtained from an extract of the species Spiraea ulmaria by the following process: a. Solubilization of Spiraea ulmaria in a mixture of water and butylene glycol (10:90), b. Separation of soluble and insoluble phases, c. Filtration of the soluble phase, d. Selective elimination of polyphenols by absorption, and e. Sterilizing filtration.

[0093] The chromatographic profile of the product of Example 3 was also compared with that of the active ingredient according to the invention. It clearly appears that the polyphenol composition of the two products is, again, very different. Indeed, the product of Example 3 comprises in particular less Procyanidin B5 (see [Fig.2]), as well as Tellimagrandin I (see [Fig.3]).

[0094] TEST IA - Evaluation of the effectiveness of the active ingredient according to the invention on the abundance of Staphylococcus hominis

[0095] The objective of this study is to evaluate the direct and specific antibacterial action on strains of Staphylococcus hominis and more particularly the growth inhibition capacity of these strains. This study made it possible to compare the active ingredient according to the invention and the product of example 2.

[0096] The direct antibacterial action of the active ingredient according to the invention and of the product of Example 2 at 1% was evaluated by spectrophotometry by monitoring the bacterial growth of 5 isolates of Staphylococcus hominis taken from malodorous panelists and a reference strain of S. hominis (DSM 20328).

[0097] The protocol is as follows. The strains were cultivated in liquid medium and aerobically at 37°C. The strains were inoculated in the presence or absence of the active ingredient according to the invention or of the product of Example 2 at 1% and incubated with stirring for 20 hours in a spectrophotometer. Bacterial growth is monitored by continuous measurement of the optical density at 600nm.

[0098] The growth of S. hominis under different conditions is compared according to the Maximum ODs reached. The growth results (OD max) of the 6 strains of S. hominis in the presence and absence of the active ingredient according to the invention or of the product of Example 2 at 1% are presented in Table 1 below.

[0099] [Tables 1] Control EXTRACT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION PRODUCT OF EXAMPLE 2 Bacterial growth (OD max) Bacterial growth (OD max) Capacity to inhibit bacterial growth (%) Bacterial growth (OD max) Capacity to inhibit bacterial growth (%) Reference strain 0.52 0.10 -81 0.57 +10 Isolate 1 0.61 0.07 -88 0.62 +3 Isolate 2 0.45 0.16 -64 0.43 -4 Isolate 3 0.47 0.10 -78 0.47 -1 Isolate 4 0.28 0.09 -70 0.29 +5 Isolate 5 0.54 0.13 -76 0.57 +7

[0100] The active ingredient according to the invention at 1% has a direct antibacterial action on S. hominis and controls its abundance by significantly reducing their growth by more than 60%, unlike the product of example 2 which only has a maximum growth inhibition of 10%.

[0101] This result proves that the active ingredient according to the invention has a specific antibacterial action on Staphylococcus hominis.

[0102] Test IB - Study of the capacity of the extract according to the invention to inhibit the CS lyase of Staphylococcus hominis

[0103] The inventor compared the capacity of the extract according to the invention and the product of Example 3 to inhibit, reduce the CS lyase of Staphylococcus hominis. This bacterial enzyme is decisive in the conversion of non-volatile precursors into volatile odorous molecules of the thiol type. For this, the enzymatic activity of the CS lyase of S. hominis was specifically measured by fluorescence from native protein extracts from isolates of S. hominis.

[0104] The protocol is as follows. S. hominis isolates are cultured on nutrient agar plates to form bacterial lawns, after incubation at 37°C. Then, the bacterial lawns are harvested and washed with PBS. Then, the collected cells are vigorously ground. After centrifugation, the native protein extracts are recovered and sterile filtered.

[0105] The protein assay is carried out as follows. The amount of protein in the S. hominis protein extracts is determined by bicinchonic acid assay using a kit. This assay involves a bicinchonic acid solution and a copper sulfate solution. The proteins reduce the Cu 2+ ions to Cu+ which form a colored complex with the bicinchonic acid. The resulting color is read at 562 nm and compared to that of a curve established with a standard.

[0106] The CS lyase activity assay is performed as follows. The CS-Lyase activity of S. hominis protein extracts is determined using a spectrophotometer, using benzylcysteine as a substrate. The thiols released by benzylcysteine for 30 minutes under the action of CS-Lyase complex with monobromobimane, inducing an increase in fluorescence at 460 nm after excitation at 405 nm. The specific activity of CS-Lyase is calculated by dividing this increase in fluorescence (AF) by the amount of protein in mg of the protein extract; it is expressed as: AF s-1 mg-1.

[0107] The effects of the active ingredient according to the invention and of the product of example 3 are determined by comparing the specific activity of the bacterial extract obtained in the presence of the active ingredient according to the invention or of the product of example 3, with that obtained without the active ingredient (control).

[0108] The results are presented in Table 2, below.

[0109] [Tables2] Enzymatic activity of CS lyase (AF s-1 mg-1) % inhibition Control 1480 EXTRACT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION 690 53% Product of Example 3 1241 16%

[0110] The active ingredient according to the invention reduces the activity of Staphylococcus hominis CS lyase by 53% while the product according to Example 3 reduces it by only 16%. Thus confirming the effectiveness of the active ingredient according to the invention on S. hominis to reduce the enzymatic activity of CS lyase.

[0111] Furthermore, a metabolomic analysis was carried out on the active ingredient according to the invention as well as on the product according to example 3. It then showed that the ellagitannins and the proanthocyanidols have a higher concentration in the active ingredient according to the invention than in the product according to example 3. In particular, the molecules identified in the extract according to the invention and absent in the product according to example 3 are the following: Tellimagrandin I, Tellimagrandin II, Pro-cyanidin B5, Procyanidin C2, Procyanidin C2 derivative, Procyanidin dimer B2 3-gallate, and Procyanidin tetramer.

[0112] Thus, the metabolomic analysis demonstrates that it is the proanthocyanidols and the tellimagrandin-type el-lagitanins which are responsible for the effectiveness of the extract according to the invention in reducing the CS lyase of S. hominis.

[0113] IC Test - Study of the efficacy of the active ingredient according to the invention on the axiliary microbiota

[0114] The objective of this study is to quantitatively evaluate the impact of the placebo formula and the formula containing the active ingredient according to the invention on the bacterial viability of the axillary microbiota.

[0115] The impact of the placebo formula and the active ingredient according to the invention formulated at 1% was evaluated by quantitatively comparing the microbial load of each axillary microbiota sample on both the aerobic flora and the anaerobic flora.

[0116] The protocol is as follows. A skin microbiota sample was taken from the armpits of 10 panelists in order to obtain representative samples of the axillary flora.

[0117] The 10 axillary microbiota samples were inoculated onto agar plates pretreated with water, the formula containing the active ingredient according to the invention at 1% or the placebo formula. These cultures were carried out on non-selective agar plates under both aerobic and anaerobic conditions in order to be able to study the total flora of the axillary microbiota. At the end of the culture times, the bacterial colonies were counted in order to enumerate the total flora of the axillary microbiota for each of the samples and in each of the conditions. The results are given in colony-forming units and expressed in log10 CFU / mL.

[0118] The results are presented in Table 3, below.

[0119] [Tables3] Aerobic flora Anaerobic flora Aerobic counts (log10UFC / mL) Aerobic counts (log10UFC / mL) Samples Placebo EXTRACT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION Placebo EXTRACT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION Average 6.22 6.19 6.42 6.40

[0120] The active ingredient according to the invention formulated at 1% does not significantly affect the viability of the aerobic and anaerobic flora of the axillary microbiota, confirming the specificity of action of the active ingredient according to the invention on S. hominis.

[0121] The active ingredient according to the invention preserves the diversity and balance of the microbiota.

[0122] Test 2A - In vitro evaluation of the efficacy of the active ingredient according to the invention on the barrier function

[0123] The objective of this study is to evaluate the capacity of the extract according to the invention to strengthen the barrier function. An intact skin barrier results from the particular structure of the stratum corneum obtained thanks to the processes of proliferation and differentiation of keratinocytes and the cohesion of the upper layers of the epidermis ensured by tight junctions.

[0124] The integrity of the epidermal barrier function was therefore analyzed by measuring transepithelial electrical resistance (TEER) and by quantifying, by immunohistofluorescence, the synthesis of loricrin, an epidermal differentiation protein, and Claudin-1, the main constituent of tight junctions. This study was carried out on reconstructed epidermis attacked by a Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) solution.

[0125] The protocol is as follows. The keratinocytes are seeded on inserts and then incubated at 37°C. For several days, the culture medium is changed regularly. After 15 days, the reconstructed epidermis are treated with an SLS solution, then incubated in the presence of the extract according to the invention at 0.10% or 0.25% (V / V). The supernatants are recovered and assayed by ELISA method.

[0126] After incubation with the extract according to the invention, the transepithelial electrical resistance (TEER) is measured. Then, the reconstructed epidermis are fixed, dehydrated and embedded in paraffin, then sections are made using a microtome. The synthesis of loricrin and claudin-1 is measured by immunohistofluorescence.

[0127] The results on transepithelial electrical resistance, loricrin synthesis, and claudin-1 synthesis are respectively presented in Tables 4, 5 and 6, below.

[0128] [Tables4] Transepithelial electrical resistance (W / cm2) Increase in transepithelial electrical resistance (%) RECONSTRUCTED EPIDERMIS attacked Control 1443 EXTRACT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION 0.10% 1749 +21 EXTRACT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION 0.25% 1851 +28

[0129] Reconstructed epidermis attacked with an SLS solution exhibit an altered barrier function, characterized by low transepithelial electrical resistance. Tested at 0.25% on attacked reconstructed epidermis, the extract according to the invention significantly increases transepithelial electrical resistance by 28%.

[0130] [Tables5] Loricrin synthesis (x!0s AU) Capacity to restore loricrin synthesis (%) RECONSTRUCTED EPIDERMIS not attacked Control 283 EXTRACT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION 0.25% 289 RECONSTRUCTED EPIDERMIS attacked Control 135 EXTRACT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION 0.10% 185 +34 EXTRACT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION 0.25% 232 +66

[0131]

[0132]

[0133]

[0134]

[0135]

[0136]

[0137] [Tableauxô] Claudin-1 synthesis (xl0s AU) Capacity to restore claudin-1 synthesis (%) RECONSTRUCTED EPIDERMIS not attacked Control 386 EXTRACT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION 0.25% 406 RECONSTRUCTED EPIDERMIS attacked Control 240 EXTRACT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION 0.10% 281 +28 EXTRACT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION 0.25% 309 +47 Reconstructed epidermis attacked with an SLS solution exhibit an altered barrier function, characterized by a significant decrease in the synthesis of loricrin and claudin-1. Tested at 0.25% on attacked reconstructed epidermis, the extract according to the invention restores the synthesis of loricrin by 66% and claudin-1 by 47%. The extract according to the invention thus improves the skin barrier function of damaged epidermis and helps to relieve skin irritations in the armpits. Test 2B - In vitro evaluation of the effectiveness of the active ingredient according to the invention on the barrier function following skin aggression The objective of this study is to evaluate the effect of the extract according to the invention on the attacked barrier function, by following the inflammatory markers: - of interleukin-1 a (IL-1 a), and - interleukin-8 (IL-8). A first study was carried out on reconstructed epidermis attacked by a solution of Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS). The synthesis of inflammatory cytokines IL-1a was measured by ELIS A in the culture supernatants. The protocol is as follows. Keratinocytes are seeded onto inserts and then incubated at 37°C. For several days, the culture medium is changed regularly. After 15 days, the reconstructed epidermis are treated with an SLS solution, then incubated in the presence of the extract according to the invention at 0.10% or 0.25% (V / V). The supernatants are collected and assayed by ELISA method.

[0138] The results on the synthesis of IL-1a are presented in Table 7, below.

[0139] [Tables?] IL-1a synthesis (pg / mL) Capacity to limit IL-1a synthesis (%) RECONSTRUCTED EPIDERMIS not attacked Control 45 RECONSTRUCTED EPIDERMIS attacked Control 250 EXTRACT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION 0.10% 210 +20 EXTRACT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION 0.25% 184 +32

[0140] Chemical aggression using an SLS solution on reconstructed epidermis induces a significant increase in the secretion of inflammatory cytokines IL-1a, reflecting the aggression of the barrier function. Tested at 0.25% on reconstructed epidermis attacked with an SLS solution, the extract according to the invention significantly limits the synthesis of interleukin-1a by 32%.

[0141] A second study was carried out on keratinocytes attacked by a solution of Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS). The synthesis of inflammatory cytokines IL-8 was measured by ELISA in the culture supernatants.

[0142] The protocol is as follows. The keratinocytes are incubated at 37°C. Then, they are treated with an SLS solution, before being incubated in the presence of the extract according to the invention or the product of Example 2 at 0.10% or 0.25% (V / V). The supernatants are recovered and assayed by ELISA method.

[0143] The results on the synthesis of IL-8 are presented in Table 8, below.

[0144] [Tables8] IL-8 synthesis (pg / mg) Capacity to limit IL-8 synthesis (%) Undamaged keratinocytes Control 168 Affected keratinocytes Control 3250 EXTRACT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION 0.10% 901 +76 EXTRACT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION 0.25% 264 +97 Product of Example 2 0.10% 1847 +45 Product of Example 2 0.25% 1398 +60

[0145] Chemical aggression using an SLS solution on keratinocytes induces a significant increase in the secretion of inflammatory cytokines IL-8, reflecting the aggression of the barrier function. Tested at 0.25% on keratinocytes attacked with an SLS solution, the extract according to the invention significantly limits the synthesis of interleukin-8 by 97% while the product of example 2 only limits the synthesis to 60%.

[0146] Thus, the extract according to the invention has a soothing role on attacked keratinocytes and on attacked epidermis and helps to relieve skin irritations of the armpits.

[0147] Test 2C - In vitro evaluation of the efficacy of the active ingredient according to the invention on the immune barrier function

[0148] The objective of this study is to evaluate the capacities of the active ingredient according to the invention to boost the expression of [3-defensins 2 and 3 (HBD2 and HBD3), Toll like Receptor 2 (TLR2), ribonuclease 7 (RNase 7), and cathelicidins (CAMP) thus making it possible to strengthen the epidermal immune barrier function.

[0149] One of the main functions of the skin is to form an effective barrier against the pathogenic microbes it continually encounters. Keratinocytes are the first sentinels of this immune barrier. They possess receptors, including TLR2, which allow them to detect and distinguish between resident microorganisms of the commensal flora and transient pathogenic microorganisms. To neutralize and eliminate them, keratinocytes synthesize antimicrobial peptides such as HBD2, HBD3, CAMP and RNase 7. The latter are widely expressed by keratinocytes and are characterized by broad-spectrum antimicrobial action.

[0150] The expression of the different markers studied was evaluated by quantitative PCR on human keratinocytes.

[0151] The protocol is as follows. The keratinocytes are seeded and incubated at 37°C. Then they are treated with the active ingredient according to the invention at 0.1% and 0.25% (V / V) or with the product according to example 2 before being incubated at 37°C. Then, the cells are recovered and the total RNAs extracted. The RNAs were reverse-transcribed and the complementary DNAs obtained were analyzed by the quantitative PCR technique. The expression of the mRNAs of the antimicrobial peptides (HBD2, HDB3, TLR2, RNase7, CAMP) was studied in parallel with reference mRNAs for normalization.

[0152] Fluorescence (SYBR Green) is measured continuously using a thermocycler.

[0153] The results obtained are presented in Tables 9 and 10, below.

[0154] [Tables9] HBD2 expression (%) Ability to boost HBD2 expression (%) HBD3 expression (%) Ability to boost HBD3 expression (%) Control 100 100 EXTRACT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION 0.10% 187 +87 270 +170 EXTRACT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION 0.25% 609 +509 336 +236 Product of Example 2 0.25% 197 +97 93 0 Product of Example 2 1% 53 +53 119 +19 TLR2 expression (%) Ability to boost TLR2 expression (%) RNase7 expression (%) Ability to boost RNase7 expression (%) CAMP expression (%) Ability to boost CAMP expression (%) Control 100 100 100 EXTRACT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION 0.10% 172 +72 237 +137 209 +109 EXTRACT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION 0.25% 251 +151 623 +523 891 +791 Product of Example 2 0.25% 84 0 59 0 77 0 Product of Example 2 1% 90 0 52 0 170 +70

[0156]

[0157]

[0158]

[0159]

[0160] Unlike the product of example 2, the active ingredient according to the invention boosts the expression of [3-defensins 2 and 3 (HBD2 and HBD3), Toll like Receptor 2 (TLR2), ribonuclease 7 (RNase 7), and cathelicidins (CAMP). The active ingredient according to the invention thus makes it possible to strengthen the immune barrier function of the epidermis. Test 3 - In vivo evaluation of the efficacy of the active ingredient according to the invention on axillary skin sensitivity The objective of this study was: - to study the impact of the extract according to the invention formulated at 1% on the barrier function of volunteers. - to evaluate in vivo the capacity of the extract according to the invention formulated at 1% to reduce the manifestations of axillary sensitivity in Caucasian volunteers reporting having sensitive armpits This study was conducted in 18 female, Caucasian subjects, aged 19 to 62 years (age average 43 years). The study of the barrier function was carried out by measuring transepidermal water loss (TEWL) using a Téwamètre® before and after 7 and 28 days of daily application of the cosmetic formula containing the extract according to the invention at 1%.

[0161] The results corresponding to the effect of the extract according to the invention formulated at 1% in gel on the quality of the skin barrier measured at the armpits are presented in Table 11 and 12, below.

[0162] [Tables 11] Average PIE (g / h / m2) D0 D7 Average 15 11.4 Variation / D0 - -24.0%

[0163] From 7 days of daily application, the extract according to the invention formulated at 1% in gel significantly improves the quality of the skin barrier of Caucasian volunteers in the armpits by reducing water loss by 24.0%. This reduction was observed in 87% of the volunteers.

[0164] [Tables 12] Average PIE (g / h / m2) D0 D28 Average 16.1 10.4 Variation / D0 - -35.7%

[0165] This effect intensifies after 28 days of treatment with a decrease in water loss of 35.7%. These effects are observed in all subjects.

[0166] The results corresponding to the effect of the extract according to the invention to reduce the manifestations of axillary sensitivity are presented in Table 13 and Table 14 below.

[0167] [Tables 13] Number of days of unpleasant sensations / 28 days Average Variation / D0 Usual hygiene conditions 6.1 - Application of gel with 1% of PAsi 3.2 -48.2%

[0168] [Tables 14] % of unpleasant sensations / total number of hair removals Average Variation / D0 Usual hygiene conditions 67 - Application of gel with 1% of PAsi 25 -62.9%

[0169] During 28 days of daily application and in comparison with a period of 28 days without application, the extract according to the invention formulated at 1% in gel significantly reduces the frequency of appearance of unpleasant sensations in the armpits: daily by 48.2% (effect observed in 89% of subjects) and after shaving or hair removal by 62.9% (for 80% of volunteers). Thus, the extract according to the invention limits the manifestations of axillary sensitivity.

[0170] The inventor has thus found that the use of the extract according to the invention makes it possible to limit the insensible water losses of subjects presenting increased sensitivity in the armpits: on average, the TEWL of sensitive subjects after use of the extract for 28 days decreases to 10.4 g / h / m2, thus approaching the TEWL of subjects not presenting a sensitive skin problem in this area, which is on average 7.6 g / h / m2. The extract according to the invention strengthens the skin barrier.

[0171] Consequently, during 28 days of daily use by Caucasian volunteers with sensitivity in the armpits, and in comparison with a period without treatment, the extract according to the invention formulated at 1% in gel reduces the frequency of appearance of unpleasant sensations perceived on a daily basis or after hair removal or shaving.

[0172] Test 4 - In vivo evaluation of the short-term efficacy of the active ingredient according to the invention on Staphylococcus hominis

[0173] The objective of this study is to evaluate the capacity of the extract according to the invention, formulated at 1% in gel to act against perspiration odors by controlling the abundance of Staphylococcus hominis, without destruction of the axillary cutaneous microbial flora, after a single application (immediate effect) in the context of practicing a sporting activity.

[0174] This study was conducted on 12 subjects (7 women and 5 men), Caucasian, aged 30 to 69 years (mean age 52 years) and presenting a light to very strong sweat odor after a sports session.

[0175] The immediate effect of the extract according to the invention was evaluated after a single application on the morning of the sporting activity.

[0176] Several parameters were analyzed: - the odors retained on the T-shirts worn by the subjects were evaluated by a panel of experts qualified in sensory measurement of odors - volatile thiol compounds collected from the T-shirts worn by the subjects were analyzed by gas chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry (GC-MSMS) - the relative abundance of Staphylococcus hominis and Corynebacterium avidum was studied on microbiota samples from the subjects - The diversity of bacterial communities in the axillary zone was monitored.

[0177] The results relating to the abundance of the species S. hominis are presented in Table 15, below.

[0178] [Tables 15] Relative abundance of S. hominis (%) Capacity of the extract according to the invention to reduce S. hominis (%) Odor group Without application of the EXTRACT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION 21.9 After a single application of the EXTRACT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION 16.1 -26%

[0179] The relative abundance of the bacterial species S. hominis, involved in the generation of malodorous compounds, is significantly reduced after a single application of the extract according to the invention. This result demonstrates an immediate action on one of the main bacterial species responsible for bad odors.

[0180] The inventor also found that the extract according to the invention allowed a reduction in the generation of odorous volatile thiol compounds. These results are presented in Table 16.

[0181] [Tables 16] Quantity of 3M3SH (ppm) Capacity of the extract according to the invention to reduce the quantity of 3M3SH (%) Odor group Without application of the EXTRACT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION 36.0 During the first application 8.5 +76.3%

[0182] In the context of a single application of the gel, in the morning before the sports session, the extract according to the invention formulated at 1% in gel significantly reduces the quantity of malodorous volatile thiol compounds.

[0183] The results relating to the abundance of the species C. avidum as well as the diversity of the bacterial flora (Shannon Index) are presented in Table 17, below.

[0184] [Tables 17] Relative abundance of C. avidum (%) Shannon index Odor group Before application of the EXTRACT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION 2.0 2.07 After a single application of the EXTRACT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION 2.4 2.16

[0185] Unlike the relative abundance of the bacterial species S. hominis, the relative abundance of C. avidum is not modified by the application of the active ingredient according to the invention. This result is confirmed by the Shannon index representing the diversity of the bacterial flora which is also unchanged.

[0186] The use of the extract according to the invention in a single application acts both on the abundance of S. hominis and on its thiol-producing enzymatic activity, while preserving the diversity of the bacterial communities of the axillary zone, thus preserving the balance of this zone and participating in preserving the cutaneous microbiota.

[0187] Test 5 - In vivo evaluation of the long-term efficacy of the active ingredient according to the invention on S. hominis

[0188] The objective of this study is to evaluate the capacity of the extract according to the invention, formulated at 1% in gel to act against perspiration odors following use prolonged (long-term effect) in the context of practicing a sporting activity. The study is conducted in a similar way to that described in the previous trial.

[0189] In this trial, volunteers applied the gel repeatedly for 7 days. The long-term effect of the extract according to the invention was evaluated 24 hours after the last application of the gel.

[0190] The inventor found that the extract according to the invention also tends to reduce the generation of odorous volatile thiol compounds in the “long term”. These results are presented in Table 18, below.

[0191] [Tablesl8] Quantity of 3M3SH (ppm) Capacity of the extract according to the invention to reduce the quantity of 3M3SH (%) Odor group Without application of the EXTRACT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION 36.0 After 7 days of daily application 20.7 +42.4%

[0192] After 7 days of daily use and after physical activity without having applied the gel containing the extract according to the invention on the morning of the sporting activity, the extract according to the invention makes it possible to reduce the quantity of volatile thiol compounds generated by 42.4%.

[0193] The results relating to the diversity of bacterial flora are presented in Table 19, below.

[0194] [Tablesl9] Shannon Index Odorant group Before application of T EXTRACT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION 2.07 After 7 days of application 2.00

[0195] These results demonstrate that the use of the extract according to the invention in repeated application does not modify the diversity of the bacterial communities of the axillary zone, thus preserving the balance of the microbiota of this zone.

[0196] The use of the extract according to the invention in repeated application acts on the thiol-producing enzymatic activity, while preserving the diversity of the bacterial communities of the axillary zone.

[0197] Finally, examples of composition according to the invention are described below.

[0198] Example of composition according to the invention 4

[0199] An example of a formulation comprising the active ingredient according to the invention in the form of a deodorant spray is presented in Table 20 below.

[0200] [Tables20] Ingredients % A Purified Water qsp 100 Aqua (Water) & Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate 0.50 B Citric Acid Solution 10% qs pH C Phenethyl Alcohol & Ethylhexylglycerin 0.50 Pentylene Glycol 5.00 Propanediol 5.00 Propylene Glycol 5.00 INVENTION EXTRACT 1.00

[0201] The composition of Example 4 can in particular be obtained by the following process: a. Homogenize A with gentle stirring. b. Adjust the pH with B to 4.8 - 5.2. c. Homogenize C with gentle stirring. d. Add C with moderate stirring and continue stirring until homogeneous.

[0202] The composition then comes in the form of a translucent, pale yellow deodorant solution.

[0203] Example of composition according to the invention 5

[0204] An example of a formulation comprising the active ingredient according to the invention in the form of a deodorant gel is presented in Table 21, below. Ingredients % A Purified Water qsp 100 BC Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.30 Sodium Soda Solution 28% 0.14 D Water & Trisodium Ethylenediamine Di-succinate 0.50 E Pentylene Glycol 5.00 Propanediol 5.00 Ethylhexylglycerin 0.30 1,2-Hexanediol 2.00 INVENTION EXTRACT 1.00

[0206] The composition of Example 5 can in particular be obtained by the following process: a. Add B to A with gentle stirring and maintain stirring until homogeneous. b. Add C and shake until a smooth gel is obtained. c. Add D and E successively with gentle stirring.

[0207] The composition then appears in the form of a slightly translucent, pale yellow flexible gel.

[0208] Example of composition according to the invention 6

[0209] An example of a formulation comprising the active ingredient according to the invention in the form of a roll-on deodorant is presented in Table 22, below. Ingredients % Al Purified Water 40.00 Sodium Gluconate 0.20 Sodium Benzoate 0.30 A2 Citric Acid Monohydrate 0.10 A3 Pentylene Glycol 5.00 Acacia Senegal Gum & Xanthan Gum 0.50 B Lauryl Glucoside & Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate & Myristyl Glucoside 3.00 Isopropyl Palmitate 3.00 Triethyl Citrate 3.00 Zinc Ricinoleate 1.50 C Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 0.60 D Diatomaceous Earth 2.00 E INVENTION EXTRACT 1.00 F Purified Water qs 100

[0211] The composition of Example 6 can in particular be obtained by the following process: a. Add A2 then A3 in Al with stirring and heat to 80°C. b. Heat B to 80°C while stirring. c. Emulsify B in A under shear stirring for 10 minutes. d. Add C with sustained stirring. e. At room temperature, with gentle stirring, add D, E and F.

[0212] The composition then appears in the form of a very fluid emulsion of beige color.

[0213] Example of composition according to the invention 7

[0214] An example of a formulation comprising the active ingredient according to the invention in the form of a deodorant stick is presented in Table 23, below. Ingredients % A Cocoglycerides 28.00 Coco-Caprylate / Caprate 28.00 Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax 11.00 CIO-18 Triglycerides 16.00 Glyceryl Undecylenate 1.00 B Calcium Carbonate 5.00 Diatomaceous Earth 2.00 Microcrystalline Cellulose 5.00 C Silica 3.00 INVENTION EXTRACT 1.00

[0216] The composition of Example 7 can in particular be obtained by the following process: a. Heat A to 80°C with gentle stirring. b. Sprinkle B while stirring gently. Stir until smooth. c. At 65°C, add C, previously homogenized, and stir until homogeneous. d. Pour immediately into sticks.

[0217] The composition then comes in the form of a smooth, shiny stick of light beige color.

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic use of a cosmetic active ingredient comprising an extract of Spiraea ulmaria, said extract comprising proanthocyanidols and ellagitannins, for preserving the diversity of the skin microbiota, and limiting the abundance of Staphylococcus hominis and / or inhibiting the CS lyase activity of Staphylococcus hominis.

2. Cosmetic use according to the preceding claim for strengthening the barrier function.

3. Cosmetic use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the ellagitannins comprise tellimagrandins.

4. Cosmetic use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the extract comprises at least tellimagrandin I and tellimagrandin II.

5. Cosmetic use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the proanthocyanidols are chosen from the molecules of the group consisting of procyanidin B5, procyanidin C2 and its derivatives, dimeric procyanidin B2 3-gallate, tetrameric procyanidin, and their mixture.

6. Cosmetic use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the extract is a hydroglycolic extract of Spiraea ulmaria.

7. Cosmetic use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the extract comprises peptides and carbohydrates.

8. Cosmetic active ingredient comprising a hydroglycolic extract of Spiraea ulmaria, said extract comprising proanthocyanidols and ellagitannins.

9. Cosmetic active ingredient according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the ellagitannins comprise tellimagrandins.

10. Cosmetic active ingredient according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it is obtained by a process comprising the following steps: a. Solubilization of Spiraea ulmaria in a mixture consisting of water and butylene glycol (25:75), b. Separation of the soluble and insoluble phases, c. Filtration of the soluble phase, d. Selective elimination of polyphenols by absorption, and e. Sterilizing filtration.

11. Cosmetic active ingredient according to one of claims 8 to 10, for its use in combating skin irritation.

12. Cosmetic composition comprising at least 0.1% of an active ingredient according to one of claims 8 to 10, by weight of the total weight of the composition.

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