Aqueous composition comprising a wax, a neutralized C12-C20 monoalkyl phosphate, a liquid polyester derived from a dimer diol and an unsaturated fatty acid dimer, a latex and a polyol

The composition of wax, C12-C20 monoalkyl phosphate surfactant, neutralized by a base, and other components enhances mascara deposition on keratin fibers, addressing crumbling issues and ensuring reproducible cosmetic effects.

FR3159099A1Pending Publication Date: 2025-08-15LOREAL SA
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Patent Information

Application Number
FR2024001276
Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2024-02-09
Publication Date
2025-08-15

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing mascara compositions fail to provide adequate mechanical properties for deposition on keratin fibers, such as resistance to crumbling, and lack reproducibility and adjustability of cosmetic effects.

Method used

A composition comprising a wax, anionic surfactant of the C12-C20 monoalkyl phosphate type, neutralized by a base, a liquid polyester derived from a diol dimer and unsaturated fatty acid dimer, water, a film-forming polymer in solid particles, and a water-soluble liquid polyol, which enhances the resistance to crumbling and adjustability of mascara application.

Benefits of technology

The formulation provides a deposit on keratin materials with improved resistance to crumbling and reproducible cosmetic effects, ensuring lasting performance and consistent application.

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Abstract

Aqueous composition comprising a wax, a neutralized C12-C20 monoalkyl phosphate, a liquid polyester derived from a diol dimer and an unsaturated fatty acid dimer, a latex and a polyol The present invention relates to a composition comprising:(1) at least one linear fatty acid monoester of the following formula (I):[Chem 1](I)in which R1 and R2 are linear and saturated and have, independently of each other, a number of carbon atoms greater than or equal to 20, with R1 representing an acyl radical, and R2 representing an alkyl radical, and(2) at least one anionic surfactant, and(3) at least one base capable of partially or totally neutralizing said anionic surfactant, and(4) at least one liquid polyester (4) obtained from a) at least one alcohol dimer (diol dimer), preferably saturated, the alcohol of which is in C16-C32 and b) at least one unsaturated fatty acid dimer; the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; and(5) water;and(6) at least one film-forming polymer in the form of solid particles suspended in the aqueous phase; and(7) at least one water-soluble liquid polyol.;
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Description

Title of the invention: Aqueous composition comprising a wax, a neutralized C12-C20 monoalkyl phosphate, a liquid polyester derived from a diol dimer and an unsaturated fatty acid dimer, a latex and a polyol Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of care and / or makeup of keratin materials, and aims to propose compositions more particularly dedicated to makeup of eyelashes or eyebrows.

[0002] Generally speaking, compositions dedicated to the makeup of keratin fibers, for example eyelashes, aim to densify the thickness and visual perception of the eyelashes and ultimately the look. These mascaras are described as aqueous or cream mascaras, when they are formulated in aqueous base and anhydrous mascaras when they are formulated in the state of dispersion in an organic solvent medium.

[0003] A wide variety of cosmetic effects can be achieved by applying mascara to keratin fibers, particularly eyelashes, such as, for example, a volumizing, lengthening, thickening, and more particularly a loading makeup effect.

[0004] These effects are essentially adjusted through the quantity and nature of the particles and particularly those of the waxes present in the mascaras. Generally speaking, mascaras in fact have a significant quantity of wax(es) and in particular from 10 to 35% by weight of waxes, more generally from 15 to 30% by weight, relative to their total weight.

[0005] For obvious reasons, the improvement of mascara textures which determine the manifestation of one or more makeup effects is a constant concern of the cosmetic formulator.

[0006] Furthermore, it is expected that the specific effects attached to a particular formulation, for example charging and also providing excellent separation of the made-up eyelashes, are reproduced almost identically by all the manufacturing batches of the same formulation.

[0007] In addition, the consumer expects a mascara with lasting performance, that is to say a mascara that resists friction (absence of grains also called "flakes"). Prior art

[0008] Aqueous mascaras comprising waxes, an anionic surfactant of the stearic acid type, a latex, black iron oxides are known on the market. - the commercial product Master Volume Mascara from Annabelle Cosmetics (Mintel ID 9953346); - the commercial product Volumizing & Curling Effects Mascara from KIKO (Mintel ID 10903016); - the Limitless Mascara product from EYEKO (Mintel ID 10323020) - the Double Lash Volumizing Mascara + Lash Grow product from Emani (Mintel ID 8158363)

[0009] During its research, the applicant found that these compositions were not fully satisfactory in terms of the mechanical properties of the deposition of the product on keratin fibers, in particular resistance to crumbling.

[0010] Thus, one of the objectives of the present invention is to access mascara compositions whose mechanical properties of the deposition of the product on the keratin fibers such as the resistance to crumbling are improved, finely adjustable and reproducible.

[0011] The inventors, during their research, unexpectedly discovered that the objectives as defined above were achieved by using a composition comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: (1) at least one wax, and (2) at least one anionic surfactant of the C12-C20 monoalkyl phosphate type; and (3) at least one base capable of partially or totally neutralizing said anionic surfactant, and (4) at least one liquid polyester obtained from a) at least one alcohol dimer (diol dimer), preferably saturated, the alcohol of which is C16-C32, preferably C16-C22, and b) at least one unsaturated fatty acid dimer; the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; and (5) water; and (6) at least one film-forming polymer in the form of solid particles suspended in the aqueous phase; and (7) at least one water-soluble liquid polyol.

[0012] Unexpectedly, the inventors have in fact found that the formulation comprising at least one wax (1), at least one anionic surfactant of the C12-C20 mono-alkyl phosphate type (2) in a form partially or totally neutralized by a base (3), at least one liquid polyester (4) obtained from an unsaturated fatty acid dimer and a diol dimer, water (5), at least one film-forming polymer (6) in the form of solid particles suspended in the aqueous phase and at least one water-soluble liquid polyol (7) made it possible to produce, after application to keratin materials such as eyelashes, a deposit having good resistance to crumbling.

[0013] This discovery is the basis of the invention. Objects of the invention

[0014] Thus, according to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to a composition comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: (1) at least one wax and (2) at least one anionic surfactant of the C12-C20 mono-alkyl phosphate type, and (3) at least one base capable of partially or totally neutralizing said anionic surfactant, and (4) at least one liquid polyester (4) obtained from a) at least one alcohol dimer (diol dimer), preferably saturated, the alcohol of which is C16-C32, preferably C16-C22, and b) at least one unsaturated fatty acid dimer; the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; and (5) water; and (6) at least one film-forming polymer in the form of solid particles suspended in the aqueous phase; and (7) at least one water-soluble liquid polyol.

[0015] A second subject of the present invention is a cosmetic process for making up and / or caring for human keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular the eye contour, the eyelash contour, the eyebrow contour; keratin fibers such as the eyelashes and eyebrows, consisting of applying to said keratin materials a composition as defined above. Definitions

[0016] In the context of the present invention, the term "keratin material" is understood to mean in particular the skin, in particular the skin surrounding the eyelashes, the skin surrounding the eyebrows; keratin fibers such as the eyelashes and eyebrows. This term keratin fibers, within the meaning of the present invention, also extends to synthetic false eyelashes.

[0017] By "physiologically acceptable" is meant compatible with the skin and / or its appendages, which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness), likely to deter the consumer from using this composition.

[0018] According to another of its aspects, the present invention relates to a process, in particular a cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin surrounding the eyelashes, the skin surrounding the eyebrows, the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows, comprising at least one step consisting of applying to said keratin materials, in particular the eyelashes and / or eyebrows.

[0019] By "particulate matter" is meant any compound in the form of insoluble and dispersible particles in the composition of the invention. Waxes

[0020] The composition(s) according to the invention comprises at least one wax (1).

[0021] This wax (1) allows you to obtain thick and loading textures.

[0022] By "wax" is meant a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25°C), deformable or not, with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 40°C and up to 120°C. In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention may have a melting point greater than or equal to 45°C, and in particular greater than or equal to 55°C.

[0023] By "lipophilic compound" is meant a compound having an acid number and a hydroxyl number of less than 150 mg KOH / g.

[0045] For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in standard ISO 11357-3; 1999.

[0024] The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name “MDSC 2920®” by the company TA Instruments.

[0025] The measurement protocol is as follows: a 5 mg sample of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C / minute, then is cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 7 10°C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the wax sample as a function of temperature is measured. The melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of temperature.

[0026] The waxes (1) can be hydrocarbon, silicone and / or fluorinated and be of vegetable, mineral, animal and / or synthetic origin.

[0027] The wax(es) (1) may be present in a content ranging from 5 to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, better still from 8 to 40% and even better still from 10 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0028] In particular, hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax; rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricurry wax, Japanese wax, berry wax, shellac wax and sumac wax; montan wax can be used as wax.

[0029] We can also cite waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal oils. or vegetable having fatty chains, linear or branched, in C8-C32.

[0030] Among these, mention may be made in particular of hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil, di-(trimethylol-1,1,1 propane) tetrastearate sold under the name "HEST 2T-4S®" by the company HETERENE, di-(trimethylol-1,1,1 propane) tetrabehenate sold under the name HEST 2T-4B® by the company HETERENE.

[0031] It is also possible to use the wax obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol sold under the name "PHYTOWAX Olive 18 L 57®" or the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol sold under the name "PHYTOWAX RICIN 16L64® and 22L73®", by the company SOPHIM. Such waxes are described in application FRA-2792190.

[0032] It is also possible to use a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearoyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture, in particular a C20-C40 alkyl 12-(12'-hydroxystearoyloxy)stearate, of formula (I): [Chem 1] in which n is an integer ranging from 18 to 38, or a mixture of compounds of formula (1). Such a sticky wax is notably sold under the names “KESTER WAX K 82 P” and “KESTER WAX K 80 P” by the company KOSTER KEUNEN. g H ■ 'W x / l U • * . ] '°ÔH s

[0033] Mention may also be made of the fatty alcohol(s), in particular chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols, in C14-C30, preferably in C14-C24, and even better in C14-C20.

[0034] The fatty alcohol(s) (9) is (are) in particular chosen from linear and saturated C14-C30 fatty alcohols, preferably linear and saturated C14-C24 fatty alcohols, better still linear and saturated C14-C20 fatty alcohols.

[0035] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the fatty alcohol (9) is in the form of a mixture of several different fatty alcohols, preferably a mixture of several linear and saturated fatty alcohols in C14-C30, better in C[4-C24, even better in C14-C20.

[0036] Preferably, the fatty alcohol (9) according to the invention is chosen from cetyl alcohol (Ci6), stearic alcohol (Ci8) and their mixtures (also called cetearyl alcohol).

[0037] According to a particular embodiment, the fatty alcohol according to the invention is a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearic alcohol. Such a mixture is notably marketed under the name LANNETTE O OR / MB® by the company BASF.

[0038] According to a preferred embodiment, a wax chosen from beeswax, Camauba wax, rice bran wax, cetyl alcohol, hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated palm oil, and mixtures thereof will be used.

[0039] According to a particular embodiment, a mixture comprising beeswax, Camauba wax, rice bran wax, cetyl alcohol, hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated palm oil, and mixtures thereof will be used.

[0040] Anionic surfactant mono-alkyl phosphate C^-C?»

[0041] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one anionic surfactant (2) of the C12-C20 mono-alkyl phosphate type, partially or totally neutralized by a base (3).

[0042] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "surfactant" means an amphiphilic chemical compound, i.e. one having in its structure two parts of different polarity. In general, one is lipophilic (soluble or dispersible in an oily phase). The other is hydrophilic (soluble or dispersible in water). Surfactants are characterized by the value of their HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilicity Balance), the HLB being the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in the molecule. The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and is described for example in "The HLB System. A time-saving guide to Emulsifier Selection" (published by ICI Americas Inc; 1984).

[0043] According to a preferred form of the invention, the anionic surfactants of the C12-C20(2) mono-alkyl phosphate type in accordance with the invention have an HLB greater than or equal to 8. The HLB of the anionic surfactant(s) used according to the invention can be determined by the GRIFFIN method.

[0044] Anionic surfactant means any negatively charged amphiphilic molecule.

[0045] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the anionic surfactant of the C12-C20(2) mono-alkyl phosphate type is present in a content ranging from 3.5 to 20.0% by weight, more preferably from 4.0 to 20.0% by weight, better still from 4.5% to 15.0% by weight, even better still from 5.0 to 15.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0046] By "mono-alkyl" designation, it is meant that the phosphate element is associated with a single C12-C20 alkyl chain, unless otherwise specified. The mono-alkyl phosphate(s) (including phosphine oxide(s)) usable in the compositions according to the present application is / are chosen from phosphates of mono-alkyl C14-C20, preferably C16-C18 and mixtures thereof.

[0047] Preferably, they are chosen from mono-cetyl phosphate, mono-stearyl phosphate and mono-cetearyl phosphate.

[0048] In particular, the anionic surfactant will be used in its form neutralized by potash (KOH), namely the potassium salt of monocetyl phosphate, with the INCI name: POTASSIUM CETYL PHOSPHATE, for example marketed under the names AMPHISOL K® (DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS), AMPHISOL A® (DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS), ARLATONE MAP® (Uniqema), CRODAFOS MCA® (Croda). Base (3)

[0049] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one base (3). This base may be organic or inorganic.

[0050] According to a first variant, the base (3) is at least one organic base.

[0051] Preferably, the base of organic origin is chosen from amino acids such as arginine; alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, tri-isopropanolamine, aminomethyl propanol; primary (poly)hydroxyalkylamines such as 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)propane-1,3-diol (also called tromethamine) and aminomethylpropanediol; and mixtures thereof.

[0052] According to a particular embodiment, the base is a primary (poly)hydroxyalkylamine.

[0053] According to another particular embodiment, the base is an amino acid, in particular arginine.

[0054] By “primary (poly)hydroxyalkylamine” is meant in particular a primary dihydroxyalkylamine, it being understood that by primary is meant a primary amine function, i.e. -NH2, and the alkyl group being a hydrocarbon chain in CrC8, linear or branched, preferably a branched C4, such as 1,3-dihydroxy-2 methyl propyl. The primary (poly)hydroxyalkylamine is preferably 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methyl-2-propylamine (also called aminomethylpropanediol or AMPD).

[0055] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the base of organic origin is T aminomethylpropanediol.

[0056] Such an aminomethylpropanediol suitable for the invention is, for example, T AMPD ULTRA PC® marketed by the company Angus (Dow Corning).

[0057] According to a second variant, the base is at least one inorganic base.

[0058] This inorganic base is chosen from alkali metal hydroxides and ammonium (NH4+).

[0059] Preferably, the inorganic base is chosen from sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, and mixtures thereof.

[0060] The amount of base is adjusted to obtain sufficient neutralization to confer effective ionicity to the associated fatty acid (2).

[0061] Preferably, the base (3) is present in an amount sufficient to neutralize some or all of the carboxylic functions of the fatty acid(s) (2) comprising from 14 to less than 20 carbon atoms.

[0062] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the base (3) is present in a content ranging from 0.2 to 3.0% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 2.0% by weight of base(s), in particular potassium hydroxide (KOH) relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0063] The anionic surfactant of the C12-C20(2) mono-alkyl phosphate type and the base (3) making up the neutralized ionic surfactant according to the invention can be introduced into the composition in the form of a single commercial material, or one after the other in the form of two separate commercial materials.

[0064] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the compositions according to the invention contain at least the anionic surfactant mono-cetyl phosphate in its form neutralized by potash (KOH), namely the potassium salt of mono-cetyl phosphate, with the INCI name POTASSIUM CETYL PHOSPHATE. Liquid polyester (4)

[0065] As indicated above, the composition comprises at least one liquid polyester (4) obtained from a) at least one alcohol dimer (diol dimer), preferably saturated, the alcohol of which is C16-C32, preferably C16-C22, and b) at least one unsaturated fatty acid dimer; the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0066] Liquid polyester means a polyester that begins to flow under its own weight in less than one minute at room temperature (25°C).

[0067] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "dimer diol" is more particularly intended to denote saturated diols produced by hydrogenation of the corresponding diacid dimers, a diacid dimer being as defined above.

[0068] It is noted that the dimer diol may also have other components, for example, a triol trimer, a monoalcohol and ether compounds, depending on the degree of purification of the dimer acid and / or the lower alcohol ester thereof used as the starting material. Products having a dimer diol content of more than 70% by weight can be used, but it is preferred to use a high purity dimer diol, such as a compound having a dimer diol content of more than 90% by weight.

[0069] Thus, a diol dimer can be produced by catalytic hydrogenation of a diacid dimer, itself obtained by dimerization of at least one unsaturated fatty acid, in particular C16 to C32, such as those mentioned above, in particular C16 to C22, and more particularly in Ci8.

[0070] According to a particular embodiment, the diol dimer derives from the hydrogenation of the acid functions of the dilinoleic diacid.

[0071] More particularly, it is the diol dimer obtained by dimerization of linoleic acid, followed by hydrogenation of the acid functions. The diol dimer may be in saturated form, that is to say, it may not contain any carbon-carbon double bonds. According to another embodiment, the possible carbon-carbon double bonds of the diol dimer are all or partly hydrogenated, after esterification reaction of the diacid dimer with the diol dimer. Hydrogenated forms, in particular fully hydrogenated forms, are preferred.

[0072] In the context of the present invention, the term “unsaturated fatty acid” means fatty acids comprising 1 to 6 unsaturations (carbon-carbon double bond).

[0073] As representatives of these unsaturated fatty acids, mention may in particular be made of palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, elaidic acid, gadoleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, erucic acid, brassidic acid, arachidonic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0074] The unsaturated fatty acid dimer is more particularly obtained by polymerization reaction, in particular dimerization, of at least one unsaturated monocarboxylic acid. It derives in particular from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid, in particular C16-C22, and more particularly C18.

[0075] Advantageously, the liquid polyester (4) used in the present invention is obtained from a diacid dimer obtained by dimerization of linoleic acid, optionally followed by hydrogenation of the carbon-carbon bonds, total or partial, advantageously total.

[0076] It can also be obtained from a mixture which contains it. In such a case, it is preferred to use a mixture in which the content of this dimer diacid is greater than 70%, more particularly greater than 90% by weight, or even more preferably greater than 95% by weight; the remainder of the mixture may be trimers and / or monomers of unsaturated fatty acids.

[0077] Advantageously, the polyester used in the composition according to the invention has an average molecular weight of between 500 and 2000 g / mol, preferably between 1000 and 2000 g / mol, and preferentially between 1200 and 1800 g / mol.

[0078] More particularly, the polyesters (4) have a viscosity of between 3000 and 400,000 mm2 / s (cSt) at 40°C.

[0079] By way of illustration of the esters suitable for the invention, the following products (INCI name) may be mentioned in particular: DIMER DILINOLEYL DIMER DILINOLEATE marketed in particular by the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL under the trade names LUSPLAN DD-DA5® and DD-DA7®.

[0080] As indicated previously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least 0.5% by weight of liquid polyester(s) as defined previously, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0081] More particularly, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid polyester (4) at a content of between 0.5% and 10% by weight, more particularly between 2 and 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Water (5)

[0082] A composition according to the invention comprises water (5).

[0083] Aqueous phase means a phase comprising water and possibly all solvents and ingredients soluble or miscible in water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C) such as lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol.

[0084] The aqueous phase may contain demineralized water, or even floral water such as cornflower water and / or mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or thermal water.

[0085] In particular, a composition according to the invention comprises at least 30.0% by weight, better still at least 40.0% by weight, or even a content of 50 to 60% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition. Film-forming polymer (6) in aqueous suspension

[0086] The composition of the present invention comprises at least one film-forming polymer (6) in the form of solid particles suspended in the aqueous phase of the composition.

[0087] In the present application, the term “film-forming polymer” means a polymer capable of forming, on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a continuous deposit on a support, at a temperature of 20°C.

[0088] Said solid particles of film-forming polymer (6) can either be used as such and are suspended in the aqueous phase of the composition or in the form of particles in aqueous dispersion (latex or pseudo-latex).

[0089] Such a film-forming polymer (6) present in the form of particles in aqueous dispersion, generally bears the name (pseudo)latex, i.e. latex or pseudolatex. The techniques for preparing these dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art.

[0090] The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more types of particles, these particles being able to vary in their size, in their structure and / or in their chemical nature.

[0091] The film-forming polymer(s) (6) may be present in a dry matter content ranging from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0092] These solid particles may be of anionic, cationic or neutral nature and may constitute a mixture of solid particles of different natures.

[0093] In the present invention, the term “aqueous” means a liquid medium based on water and / or hydrophilic solvents. This aqueous liquid medium may consist essentially of water. It may also comprise a mixture of water and water-miscible organic solvent(s) (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C) such as lower monoalcohols having 2 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol, glycols having 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, C3-C4 ketones, C2-C4 aldehydes.

[0094] Among the film-forming polymers (6) which can be used in the composition of the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of radical type or of poly-condensate type, polymers of natural origin and their mixtures. Generally speaking, these polymers can be random polymers, block copolymers of AB type, multi-block A-BA or even ABCD, or even grafted polymers. Free radical film-forming polymer

[0095] By radical polymer is meant a polymer obtained by polymerization of monomers with unsaturation, in particular ethylenic unsaturation, each monomer being capable of homopolymerizing (unlike polycondensates).

[0096] The film-forming polymers (6) of radical type may in particular be homopolymers or copolymers, acrylic and / or vinyl.

[0097] The vinyl film-forming polymers (6) may result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acid group and / or esters of these acid monomers and / or amides of these acid monomers.

[0098] As ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acid group or monomer carrying an acid group, it is possible to use α,β-ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid. In particular, (meth)acrylic acid and crotonic acid are used, and more particularly (meth)acrylic acid.

[0099] The acid monomer esters are advantageously chosen from (meth)acrylic acid esters (also called (meth)acrylates), in particular alkyl (meth)acrylates, in particular C1-C20 alkyl, more particularly C1-C8 alkyl, aryl (meth)acrylates, in particular C6-C10 aryl, hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates, in particular C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl.

[0100] Among the alkyl (meth)acrylates, mention may be made of methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate.

[0101] Among the hydroxy alkyl (meth)acrylates, mention may be made of hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.

[0102] Among the aryl (meth)acrylates, mention may be made of benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate.

[0103] The esters of (meth)acrylic acid are in particular alkyl (meth)acrylates.

[0104] According to the present invention, the alkyl group of the esters can be either fluorinated or perfluorinated, that is to say that some or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted by fluorine atoms.

[0105] As amides of the acid monomers, mention may be made, for example, of (meth)acrylamides, and in particular of N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides, in particular of C2-Ci2 alkyl. Among the N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides, mention may be made of N-ethyl acrylamide, Nt-butyl acrylamide and Nt-octyl acrylamide.

[0106] Vinyl film-forming polymers can also result from homopolymerization or copolymerization of monomers chosen from vinyl esters and styrene monomers. In particular, these monomers may be polymerized with acid monomers and / or their esters and / or their amides, such as those mentioned above.

[0107] Examples of vinyl esters include vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate, and vinyl t-butyl benzoate.

[0108] As styrene monomers, mention may be made of styrene from alpha-methyl styrene.

[0109] The list of monomers given is not limiting and it is possible to use any monomer known to those skilled in the art falling into the categories of acrylic and vinyl monomers (including monomers modified by a silicone chain).

[0110] Mention may also be made of polymers resulting from the radical polymerization of one or more radical monomers, inside and / or partially on the surface of pre-existing particles of at least one polymer chosen from the group consisting of polyurethanes, polyureas, polyesters, polyesteramides and / or alkyds. These polymers are generally called “hybrid polymers”. Polycondensate

[0111] As film-forming polymer (6) of polycondensate type, mention may be made of anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, acrylic polyurethanes, polyvinylpyrrolidones polyurethanes, polyester polyurethanes, polyether polyurethanes, polyureas, polyurea / polyurethanes, silicone polyurethanes, and mixtures thereof.

[0112] The film-forming polyurethane may be, for example, a polyurethane, polyurea / urethane, or polyurea copolymer, aliphatic, cycloaliphatic or aromatic, comprising alone or as a mixture at least one sequence chosen from: - a sequence of aliphatic and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic polyester origin, and / or - a silicone sequence, branched or not, for example polydimethylsiloxane or poly-methylphenylsiloxane, and / or - a sequence comprising fluorinated groups.

[0113] The film-forming polyurethanes as defined in the invention can also be obtained from polyesters, branched or not, or from alkyds comprising mobile hydrogens which are modified by reaction with a diisocyanate and a bifunctional organic compound (for example dihydro, diamino or hydroxyamino), additionally comprising either a carboxylic acid or carboxylate group, or a sulfonic acid or sulfonate group, or even a neutralizable tertiary amine group or a quaternary ammonium group.

[0114] Among the film-forming polycondensates, mention may also be made of polyesters, polyester amides, fatty chain polyesters, polyamides, and epoxy ester resins.

[0115] Polyesters can be obtained, in a known manner, by polycondensation of dicarboxylic acids with polyols, in particular diols.

[0116] The dicarboxylic acid may be aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic. Examples of such acids include: oxalic acid, malonic acid, dimethylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, 2,2-dimethylgluratic acid, azelaic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, phthalic acid, dodecanedioic acid, 1,3-cyclohexanedicarbocylic acid, 1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,5-norborane dicarboxylic acid, diglycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid, 2,5-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, 2,6-naphthalene-dicarboxylic acid. These dicarboxylic acid monomers can be used alone or in combination with at least two dicarboxylic acid monomers. Among these monomers, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid and terephthalic acid are particularly chosen.

[0117] The diol may be chosen from aliphatic, alicyclic, aromatic diols. In particular, a diol chosen from: ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, cyclohexane dimethanol, 4-butanediol is used. As other polyols, glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, trimethylol propane may be used.

[0118] Polyester amides can be obtained in a manner analogous to polyesters, by polycondensation of diacids with diamines or amino alcohols. As diamine, ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, meta- or para- phenylenediamine. Monoethanolamine can be used as an amino alcohol.

[0119] As a particular form of polycondensate film-forming polymer, a polyester-polyurethane in aqueous dispersion with the INCI name: Polyurethane-35 will be used, such as the commercial product BAYCUSAN C 1010 / 1® and or that with the INCI name: Polyurethane-48, such as the commercial product “BAYCUSAN C 1008 / 1®” sold by the company Covestro. Naturally occurring polymer

[0120] In the present invention, polymers of natural origin, optionally modified, such as shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammars, elemis, copals, water-insoluble cellulose polymers such as nitrocellulose, modified cellulose esters including in particular carboxyalkyl cellulose esters such as those described in patent application US2003 / 185774, and mixtures thereof, may be used.

[0121] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, said at least one film-forming polymer in the dispersed state is chosen from acrylic polymer dispersions, polyurethane dispersions, sulfopolyester dispersions, vinyl dispersions, polyvinyl acetate dispersions, vinyl pyrrolidone, dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide and lauryldimethylpropyl-methacrylamidoammonium chloride terpolymer dispersions, polyurethane / polyacrylic hybrid polymer dispersions, core-shell particle dispersions and mixtures thereof.

[0122] Different types of aqueous dispersions, in particular commercial ones, suitable for the preparation of the composition in accordance with the present invention are detailed below.

[0123] 1 / Thus, according to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the aqueous dispersion of polymer particles is an aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymer.

[0124] The acrylic polymer may be a styrene / acrylate copolymer, and in particular a polymer chosen from copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one styrene monomer and at least one C1-C18 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer. As styrene monomer that can be used in the invention, mention may be made, for example, of styrene or α-methylstyrene, and in particular styrene.

[0125] The C1-C18 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer is in particular a C1-C10 alkyl (meth)acrylate and more particularly a C1-C10 alkyl (meth)acrylate. The C1-C18 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer may be chosen from methyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate, ethyl acrylate, propyl acrylate, butyl acrylate, butyl methacrylate, hexyl acrylate, octyl acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, lauryl (meth)acrylate and stearyl (meth)acrylate.

[0126] As acrylic polymer in aqueous dispersion, the following may be used according to the invention: - aqueous dispersions of acrylic polymer sold under the names “Acronal DS-6250®” by BASF, “Neocryl A-45®”, “Neocryl XK-90®”, “Neocryl A-1070®”, “Neocryl A-1090®”, “Neocryl BT-62®”, “Neocryl A-1079®” and “Neocryl A-523®” by DSM, Joncryl 95®, Joncryl 8211® by BASF, “Daitosol 5000 AD®”, EPITEX 66 Polymer® in emulsion form by DOW CORNING (INCI name: ACRYLATES COPOLYMER) or “Daitosol 5000 AD®” (INCI name: ACRYLATES / ETHYLHEXYL ACRYLATE COPOLYMER) by DAITO KASEY KOGYO; Syntran 5760 CG® (INCI name: Styrene / Acrylates / Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer) by the company In-terpolymer.

[0127] 2 / according to an alternative embodiment of the invention, the aqueous dispersion of particles polymer is an aqueous dispersion of polyester-polyurethane and / or polyether-polyurethane particles, particularly anionic.

[0128] The anionic character of the polyester-polyurethanes and polyether-polyurethanes used according to the invention is due to the presence in their constituent units of groups with a carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid function.

[0129] The polyester-polyurethane or polyether-polyurethane particles used according to the invention are generally marketed in the form of aqueous dispersions.

[0130] The particle content of said dispersions currently available on the market ranges from approximately 20% to approximately 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the dispersion.

[0131] Among the anionic polyester-polyurethane dispersions which can be used in aqueous varnishes according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of that marketed under the name “Avalure UR 405®” by the company NOVEON.

[0132] Among the dispersions of anionic polyether-polyurethane particles which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of those marketed under the name "Avalure UR 450®" by the company NOVEON, and under the name Néorez R 970® by the company DSM, "BAYCUSAN C 1010®" (INCI name: POLY-URETHANE-35) as well as the commercial product sold under the name BAYCUSAN C 1010 / 1® and "BAYCUSAN C 1008 / 1®" (INCI name: POLYURETHANE-48 (and) METHYLPROPANEDIOL (and) CAPRYLYL GLYCOL (and) PHENYL-PROPANOL) sold by the company Covestro.

[0133] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, it is possible to use a mixture of commercial dispersions consisting of anionic polyester-polyurethane particles as defined above and anionic polyether-polyurethane particles also defined above.

[0134] For example, it is possible to use a mixture consisting of the dispersion marketed under the name “Sancure 861®” or a mixture of that marketed under the name “Avalure UR 405®” and that marketed under the name “Avalure UR 450®”, these dispersions being marketed by the company NOVEON.

[0135] As other examples of film-forming polymers in accordance with the invention, mention may also be made of: - polycondensates of polyamide type resulting from the condensation between (a) at least one acid chosen from the acids as described in documents US-A-5,874,069, US-A-5,919,441, US-A-6,051,216 and US-A-5,981,680 such as for example those marketed under the reference Dow Corning 2-8179® and Dow Corning 2-8178 Gellant® by the company DOW CORNING; block copolymers of "diblock", "triblock" or "radial" type of polystyrene / polyisoprene, polystyrene / poly-butadiene such as those marketed under 1 M 5960®).

[0136] As solid particles of film-forming polymer according to the invention, it is more preferential to use: - aqueous dispersions of acrylic polymer sold under the names “Acronal DS-6250®” by BASF, “Neocryl A-45®”, “Neocryl XK-90®”, “Neocryl A-1070®”, “Neocryl A-1090®”, “Neocryl BT-62®”, “Neocryl A-1079®” and “Neocryl A-523®” by DSM, “Joncryl 95®”, “Joncryl 8211®” by BASF, “Daitosol 5000 AD®” (INCI name: ACRYLATES COPOLYMER) or “Daitosol 5000 SJ®”, “EPITEX 66 Polymer®” in emulsion form by DOW CORNING (INCI name: ACRYLATES / ETHYLHEXYL ACRYLATE COPOLYMER) by DAITO KASEY KOGYO company, “Acudyne 5600P®” and “Acudyne 5800P®” from Dow Chemical company (INCI name: Acrylates Copolymer); - the aqueous polyurethane dispersions sold under the names “Neorez R-981®” and “Neorez R-974®” by the company DSM, “Avalure UR-405®”, “Avalure UR-410®”, “Avalure UR-425®”, “Avalure UR-450®”, “Sancure 875®”, “Avalure UR 445®”, “Avalure UR 450®” by the company NOVEON, “Impranil 85®” by the company BAYER, “BAYCUSAN C 1010®” (INCI name: PO-LYURETHANE-35) as the commercial product sold under the name BAYCUSAN C 1010 / 1® and “BAYCUSAN C 1008 / 1®” (INCI name: POLYURETHANE-48 (and) METHYLPROPANEDIOL (and) CAPRYLYL GLYCOL (and) PHENYL-PROPANOL) sold by the company Covestro. - sulfopolyesters such as those sold under the brand name “Eastman AQ®” by the company Eastman Chemical Products, - vinyl dispersions such as “Mexomère PAM®”, aqueous dispersions of polyvinyl acetate such as “Vinybran®” from Nisshin Chemical or those marketed by UNION CARBIDE, aqueous dispersions of vinyl pyrrolidone terpolymer, dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide and lauryl chloride ryldimethylpropylmethacrylamidoammonium such as “Styleze W ®”-from ISP, - aqueous dispersions of polyurethane / polyacrylic hybrid polymers such as those marketed under the references Hybridur® by the company AIR PRODUCTS or Duromer® from NATIONAL STARCH, - their mixtures.

[0137] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous dispersion of acrylic film-forming polymer (6).

[0138] According to a particular form, a composition in accordance with the invention comprises an aqueous dispersion of solid particles of acrylic film-forming polymer (6) with the INCI name: ACRYLATES COPOLYMER such as the commercial product sold under the name “DAITOSOL 5000 AD®” by the company DAITO. Water-soluble liquid polyol (7)

[0139] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one water-soluble liquid polyol (7).

[0140] The term “water-soluble liquid polyol” means any organic molecule comprising at least two hydroxyl (OH) groups, liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure and miscible in water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).

[0141] Among the water-soluble polyols (7), mention may be made of compounds consisting of a saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched or cyclic alkyl chain, comprising at least two OH functions. The alkyl chain preferably comprises from 2 to 32 carbon atoms, in particular from 3 to 16, more particularly from 3 to 8 carbon atoms, even more particularly from 3 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0142] Preferably, the water-soluble liquid polyol (7) may be chosen from glycols such as ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,3-butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol (glycerin); polyglycerols such as glycerol oligomers, for example diglycerol; polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.

[0143] According to a preferred form of the invention, the water-soluble liquid polyol (3) is chosen from 1,3-butylene glycol with INCI name: BUTYLENE GLYCOL, pentylene glycol or 1,2-pentanediol, and their mixtures.

[0144] Preferably, the water-soluble liquid polyol(s) (7) is (are) present in the composition at contents ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 8% and more preferably from 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Other components

[0145] In addition to the aforementioned compounds, a composition according to the invention may of course comprise additional ingredients. Charges (8)

[0146] The compositions in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one filler (8), of organic or mineral nature, making it possible, in particular, to give them additional properties of mattness, coverage, hold and / or improved stability.

[0147] By filler is meant colorless or white, solid particles of all shapes, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. Of mineral or organic nature, they make it possible to give body or rigidity to the composition and / or softness, and uniformity to the makeup.

[0148] The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be of lamellar, globular, spherical, fiber forms or any other intermediate form between these defined forms.

[0149] The fillers according to the invention may or may not be surface coated, and, in particular, they may be surface treated with silicones, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance promoting the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition.

[0150] Examples of mineral fillers include talc, mica, silica, hollow silica microspheres, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, glass or ceramic microcapsules, silica and titanium dioxide composites, such as the TSG® series marketed by Nippon Sheet Glass, and hydrophobic silica aerogels.

[0151] Examples of organic fillers include polyamide powders (Nylon® Orgasol from Atochem), polyethylene, polymethyl methacrylate, polytetrafluoroethylene powders (Teflon®), acrylic acid copolymers (Polytrap® from Dow Corning), lauroyl lysine, hollow polymeric microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), Hexamethylene Diisocyanate / Trimethylol Hexyllactone copolymer powder (Plastic Powder® from Toshiki), silicone resin microbeads (Tospearl® from Toshiba for example), synthetic or natural micronized waxes, metallic soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, Polypore OL 200® (Chemdal Corporation), the elas- organopolysiloxane powders crosslinked tomeric coated with silicone resin, in particular silsesquioxane resin, as described for example in patent US5538793. It can also be cellulose powder such as that marketed by Daito in the Liquid Fatty Phase range (9)

[0152] According to a particular form, a composition according to the invention may also comprise a liquid fatty phase (9).

[0153] Such a liquid fatty phase is an organic phase that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) and is non-aqueous and immiscible with water.

[0154] The liquid fatty phase (9) may contain a non-volatile oil chosen in particular from non-volatile hydrocarbon oils.

[0155] Hydrocarbon oil is understood to mean an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions.

[0156] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and in particular having a vapor pressure of less than 103 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).

[0157] A composition according to the invention preferably comprises less than 5.0% by weight, more preferably less than 2.0% by weight of volatile oil(s) relative to the total weight of the composition. In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition is free of volatile oils.

[0158] For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, in particular ranging from 2.66 Pa to 13,000 Pa, and more particularly ranging from 2.66 Pa to 1,300 Pa. Hydrophilic film-forming polymer(s) (10)

[0159] According to a particular form, a composition according to the invention may additionally comprise at least one hydrophilic film-forming polymer (10).

[0160] For the purposes of the present invention, the term hydrophilic polymer means a water-soluble polymer.

[0161] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "water-soluble polymer" means a polymer which, when introduced into water at a concentration equal to 1%, results in a macroscopically homogeneous solution whose light transmittance, at a wavelength equal to 500 nm, through a sample 1 cm thick, is at least 10%.

[0162] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "film-forming polymer" means a polymer capable of forming, on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a macroscopically continuous deposit, and preferably a cohesive deposit, and better still a deposit whose cohesion and mechanical properties are such that said deposit can be isolated and handled in isolation, for example when said deposit is produced by casting onto a non-stick surface such as a Teflon-coated or silicone-coated surface.

[0163] The hydrophilic film-forming polymer (10) present in the composition according to the invention may be chosen from: - proteins such as proteins of plant origin such as wheat and soy proteins; proteins of animal origin such as keratins, for example keratin hydrolysates and sulfonic keratins; - anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic chitin or chitosan polymers; - cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, methylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, as well as quaternized cellulose derivatives; - acrylic polymers or copolymers, such as polyacrylates or polymethacrylates; - vinyl polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and malic anhydride, copolymer of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid, vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate copolymers; vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam copolymers; polyvinyl alcohol; - polyesters, in particular anionic polyester and / or polyesteramide polymers, in particular water-dispersible, comprising monomers carrying a function: -SO3M, with M representing a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion NH4+ or a metal ion, such as for example a Na+, Li+, K+, Mg2+, Ca2+, Cu2+, Fe2+, Fe3+ ion. Mention may in particular be made of the polymers described in documents US-3,734,874; US-4,233,196; US-4,304,901. Advantageously, film-forming polyester polymers based on at least one dicarboxylic acid, at least one diol and at least one bifunctional aromatic monomer also carrying a -SO3M group as described above are chosen; - fatty chain polyesters, polyamides, and epoxy ester resins; - polyurethane polymers, in particular anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, polyurethane-acrylics, polyurethane-polyvinylpyrrolidones, polyester-polyurethanes, polyether-polyurethanes, polyureas, polyurea / polyurethanes, - polymers of natural origin, possibly modified, such as: . arabic gums such as that extracted from acacia from Senegal with the INCI name ACACIA SENEGAL GUM, guar gum, xanthan derivatives, karaya gum; . alginates and carrageenans; . glycoaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives; . shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammars, elemis, copals; . deoxyribonucleic acid; . muccopolysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulfate; and mixtures thereof.

[0164] According to a preferred form of the invention, the hydrophilic film-forming polymer (10) is chosen from hydroxyalkylcelluloses, in particular a hydroxyethylcellulose such as the commercial product CELLOSIZE HEC QP-4400H EUROPE PCG® sold by the company DOW, gum arabic, in particular that extracted from acacia from Senegal with the INCI name: ACACIA SENEGAL GUM such as the commercial products with the name SPRAY DRIED GUM ACACIA 396A® from the company Alland & Robert and SPRAYGUM SC10® from the company Nexira; and mixtures thereof.

[0165] According to a particular form of the invention, the hydrophilic film-forming polymer (10) is chosen from a hydroxyethylcellulose, a gum arabic extracted from acacia Senegal with the INCI name: ACACIA SENEGAL GUM; and mixtures thereof.

[0166] According to a particular form, the composition of the invention contains a mixture of hydroxyethylcellulose and a gum arabic extracted from acacia from Senegal with the INCI name: ACACIA SENEGAL GUM.

[0167] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises from 0.1% to 15.0% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10.0% by weight, better still from 1.0% to 8.0% by weight of hydrophilic film-forming polymer(s) (10) relative to the total weight of the composition. h) Cosmetic active ingredients (11)

[0168] As cosmetic active agents which can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers, cosmetic active agents such as, for example, emollients, vitamins and filters, in particular sunscreens, and mixtures thereof.

[0169] These additives (11) may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01 to 15.0%, of the total weight of the composition.

[0170] Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional additives and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the envisaged addition. (i) Coloring matter (12)

[0171] A composition according to the invention, and in particular those dedicated to makeup, generally comprises at least one coloring material (12) such as powdery materials, liposoluble dyes, water-soluble dyes.

[0172] The powdery coloring materials (12) can be chosen from pigments and pearlescent agents.

[0173] The pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic, coated or not. Among the mineral pigments, mention may be made of titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium, zinc or cerium oxides, as well as iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lakes based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum.

[0174] The nacres can be chosen from white nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored nacreous pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

[0175] For the purposes of the invention, the term "water-soluble coloring matter" means any generally organic, natural or synthetic compound, soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and capable of coloring.

[0176] As water-soluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes such as, for example, FDC Red 4, D&C Red 6, D&C Red 22, D&C Red 28, D&C Red 30, D&C Red 33, D&C Red 40, D&C Orange 4, D&C Yellow 5, D&C Yellow 6, D&C Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, D&C Green 5, betanin (beetroot), carmine, copper chlorophyline, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocyanin, black carrot, hibiscus, elderberry), caramel, riboflavin.

[0177] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a pulverulent coloring material (12), preferably of the pigment type, in particular metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxides, iron oxides and their mixtures; and more preferably iron oxides, and more particularly black iron oxides (CI 77499).

[0178] Preferably, said coloring matter (12) is present in the composition in a content ranging from 2.0 to 25.0% by weight, preferably from 3.0% to 20.0% by weight, more particularly from 4.0 to 15.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0179] The composition can be manufactured by known methods, generally used in the cosmetic field.

[0180] The composition used according to the invention may be a makeup composition, a makeup base, in particular keratin fibers, or base coat, a composition to be applied over makeup, also called a top coat, or even a composition for treating keratin fibers.

[0181] More specifically, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a product for the eyelashes such as a mascara, a product for the eyebrows or a product for the eye contour such as an eyeliner, and more particularly a mascara.

[0182] Such compositions are in particular prepared according to the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.

[0183] Packaging and application assembly or kit

[0184] The present invention also relates to a set or kit for packaging and applying a cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibers comprising: - a packaging device comprising said cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibers as previously described, - an applicator of said composition.

[0185] Said applicator may be integral with a gripping member forming a cover for said packaging device. In other words, said applicator may be mounted in a removable position on said device between a closed position and a position clear of a dispensing opening of the packaging device for said composition.

[0186] A keratin fiber coating assembly suitable for the invention may comprise an applicator configured to apply said cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibers, and where appropriate a packaging device suitable for receiving said composition. Applicator

[0187] The applicator comprises means for smoothing and / or separating the kera fibers tinic, such as eyelashes or eyebrows, particularly in the form of teeth, hairs, spikes or other reliefs.

[0188] The applicator is arranged to apply the composition to the eyelashes or eyebrows, and may include, for example, a brush or a comb.

[0189] The applicator can still be used for finishing the makeup, on an area eyelashes or eyebrows made up or loaded with composition.

[0190] The brush may have a twisted core and bristles caught between the turns of the core, or be made in another way.

[0191] The comb is for example made from a single piece by molding plastic material.

[0192] In some embodiments, the application element is mounted at the end of a rod, which can be flexible, which can help improve comfort during application. Packaging device

[0193] The packaging device comprises a container intended to house the composition for coating the keratin fibers. This composition can then be taken from the container by immersing the applicator therein.

[0194] This applicator may be integral with a closure element of the container. This closure element may form a gripping member of the applicator. This gripping member may form a cover to be removably mounted on said container by any suitable means such as screwing, snap-fastening, fitting or other. Such a container may therefore reversibly house said applicator.

[0195] This container may optionally be equipped with a wringer suitable for removing excess product taken up by the applicator.

[0196] A method of applying the composition according to the invention to the eyelashes or eyebrows may also comprise the following steps: - form a deposit of the cosmetic composition on the eyelashes or eyebrows, - leave the deposit on the eyelashes or eyebrows, as the deposit may dry.

[0197] It should be noted that according to another embodiment the applicator can form a product container. In such a case a container can for example be provided in the gripping member and an internal channel can internally connect this gripping member to the raised application elements.

[0198] Finally, it should be noted that the packaging and application assembly may be presented in the form of a kit, the applicator and the packaging device being able to be housed separately in the same packaging article.

[0199] The expressions “between ... and ...” and “ranging from ... to ...” must be understood inclusively, unless otherwise specified.

[0200] In the description and the examples, unless otherwise indicated, the percentages are percentages by weight. The percentages are therefore expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The ingredients are mixed, in the order and under the conditions easily determined by those skilled in the art.

[0201] The invention will now be described by means of examples which are provided for illustrative purposes only and should not be construed as limiting examples of the invention.

[0202] Examples of mascara: example 1 according to the invention and examples 1a, 1b, 1c and 1d (outside the invention)

[0203] Ingredients Exl Ex la Ex 1b Ex le Ex Id Ex le (INCI name) according to excluding excluding excluding excluding invention with polyester DIMER DILINO LEYL DIMER DILINO LEATE invention without liquid polyester (4) invention without hydrosol uble polyol (7) invention with polyester DILINOL EIC ACID / BU TANE DIOL COPOLYMER invention with polyester BIS-DIGLYCER YL POLY-ACYLADIPA TE-2 invention without potassium cetylphop haste replaced by neutralized stearic acid COPERNICI A CERIFERA (CARNAUBA) WAX wax (1) 3.50 3.50 3.50 3.50 3.50 3.50 BEESWAX wax (1) 4.40 4.40 4.40 4.40 4.40 4.40 ORYZA SATIVA (RICE) BRAN WAX wax (1) 11.11 11.11 11.11 11.11 11.11 11.11 HYDROGEN ATED JOJOBA OIL wax (1) 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 HYDROGEN ATED PALM OIL wax (1) 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 CETYL ALCOHOL (ALKONAT 1698® -OXINETO)® 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 ) cire (1) ACRYLATE S COPOLYME R (DAITOSOL 5000 AD® -DAITO)) polymer filmogène en suspension aqueuse(6) 10,00 10,00 10,00 10,00 10,00 10,00 IRON OXIDES / CI 77499 (SUNPURO BLACK IRON OXIDE C33-7001®de Sun matière dye (16) 10,00 10,00 10,00 10,00 10,00 10,00 ACACIA SENEGAL GUM (SPRAY DRIED GUM ACACIA 396A-Alland & Robert) polymère filmogène hy-drophile(lO) 0,63 0,63 0.63 0.63 0.63 0.63 HYDROXYE THYL CELLULOSE (CELLOSIZE HEC QP-4400H EUROPE PCG® -DOW) polymère filmogène hy-drophile(lO) 0,75 0,75 0,75 0,75 0,75 0.75 DIMER DL LINOLEYL DIMER DL LINOLEATE (LUSPLAN DD-DA7® -NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL) polyester liquide (4) 2,00 2,00 2.00 DILINOLEIC ACID / BUTA NEDIOL COPOLYME R (VISCOPLAS T 14436 H -BIOSYNTHI S) 2,00 BIS-DIGLYC ERYL PO-LYACYLAD IPATE-2 (SOFTISAN 2,00 649®- CREMER OLEO)° POTASSIUM CETYL PHOSPHATE (AMPHISOL K-DSM NUTRITION AL PRODUCTS) Surfactant (2) + base (3) 7.00 7.00 7.00 7.00 7.00 STEARIC ACID (EDENOR ST 05 MY-EMERY OLEOCHEM ICALS) Surfactant (2) 5.25 AMINOMET HYL PRO-PANEDIOL (AMPD ULTRA PC, NEUTRALIZ ING AMINE-ANGUS (ADVANCIO N)) base (3) 1.75 Preservatives 2.75 2.75 2.75 2.75 2.75 2.75 BUTYLENE 2.00 2.00 - 2.00 2.00 2.00 GLYCOL water-soluble polyol (7) WATER (5) qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 Protocol for preparing examples

[0204] The compositions were prepared in a MAXILAB OLSA® double-jacketed tank as follows (on 3 kg). At room temperature (25°C), all the ingredients except the Acrylates Copolymer were introduced into the tank. The mixture was heated to around 90°C with stirring. Emulsification was carried out for 15 minutes with turbine / blade / scraper stirring (speed 3000 / 30 / 42 rpm). The juice was gradually cooled to 60°C with blade / scraper stirring (speed = 30 / 42 rpm) at a rate of 2°C / min. Then, the acrylate copolymer was added and cooled to 35°C under blade / scraper stirring (speed = 30 / 42 rpm) at a rate of 2°C / min, gradually deaerating the formula using vacuum before draining at 35°C.

[0205] After packaging the formulas in a mascara applicator, they were evaluated by a friction resistance test carried out according to the protocol described below.

[0206] The formulas were deposited on false eyelashes (hair sample) by 3 times ten strokes spaced by 2 minutes of drying. The test pieces were then left to dry for 1 hour on a plate thermostatically controlled at 33°C. 30 strokes were applied to the false eyelashes using the Lancôme Kéracil® mascara brush over a white sheet. The quantity of residue (Flakes) deposited on the sheet was evaluated using an abacus defining a score from 0 to 6 (0 no residue, 6 a lot of residue). Note that a significant difference is observable when the difference is greater than or equal to 1. The results obtained are shown in the table below.

[0207] Exl according to the invention with the polyester DIMER DILINOL EYL DIMER DILINOL Ex la outside the invention without liquid polyester (4) Ex 1b outside the invention without water-soluble polyol (7) Ex le outside the invention with the polyester DILINOL EIC ACID / BU TANE DIOL Ex Id outside the invention with the polyester BIS-D IGLYCERYL POLYACYLA DIPATE-2 Ex le outside the invention without potassium cetyl phosphate replaced by stearic acid EATE / polyol COPOLY MER neutralized FLA KES notes 1 5 4 5 5 4

[0208] The results showed that Example 1 according to the invention containing the liquid polyester DIMER DILINOLEYL DIMER DILINOLEATE associated with the polyol and the neutralized C12-C2 monoalkyl phosphate surfactant (Potassium Cetyl phosphate) provides better resistance to friction compared to counter-examples 1a, 1b, 1c, 1d and 1c outside the invention.

Claims

Claims

1. Composition comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: (1) at least one wax and (2) at least one anionic surfactant of the C12-C20 monoalkyl phosphate type, and (3) at least one base capable of partially or totally neutralizing said anionic surfactant, and (4) at least one liquid polyester (4) obtained from a) at least one alcohol dimer (diol dimer), preferably saturated, the alcohol of which is C16-C32, preferably C16-C22, and b) at least one unsaturated fatty acid dimer; the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; and (5) water; and (6) at least one film-forming polymer in the form of solid particles suspended in the aqueous phase; and (7) at least one water-soluble liquid polyol.

2. Composition according to claim 1, where the wax(es) (1) is (are) present in a content ranging from 5 to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, better still from 8 to 40% and even better still from 10 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the wax(es) (1) is (are) chosen from beeswax, Camauba wax, rice bran wax, cetyl alcohol, hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated palm oil, and mixtures thereof.

4. A composition according to any preceding claim, comprising a mixture containing beeswax, Camauba wax, rice bran wax, cetyl alcohol, hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated palm oil,

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the anionic surfactant of the C12-C20 mono-alkyl phosphate type is present in a content ranging from 3.5 to 20.0% by weight, more preferably from 4.0 to 20.0% by weight, better still from 4.5% to 15.0% by weight, even better still from 5.0 to 15.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. A composition according to any preceding claim wherein, comprising at least one of the anionic surfactants of the C12-C20 mono-alkyl phosphate type is mono-cetyl phosphate in its form neutralized by potash (KOH) namely the potassium salt of mono-cetyl phosphate with the INCI name POTASSIUM CETYL PHOSPHATE.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one liquid polyester (4) is that of INCI name DIMER DILINOLEYL DIMER DILINOLEATE.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, where the liquid polyester (4) is present in the composition at contents ranging from 0.5% to 10% and more preferably from 2 to 6% relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least 30.0% by weight, better still at least 40.0% by weight, or even a content of 50 to 60% by weight of water (5), relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the film-forming polymer(s) (6) in the form of particles suspended in water are present in a dry matter content ranging from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising an aqueous dispersion of solid particles of acrylic film-forming polymer (6), in particular of INCI name: ACRYLATES COPOLYMER.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the water-soluble liquid polyol (7) is 1,3-butylene glycol with INCI name: BUTYLENE GLYCOL.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the water-soluble liquid polyol(s) (7) are present in the composition at contents ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 8% and more preferably from 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one filler (8).

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one fatty alcohol (9); preferably chosen from linear and saturated C14-C30 fatty alcohols; better chosen from linear and saturated C14-C24 fatty alcohols; more particu- primarily selected from linear and saturated C14-C20 fatty alcohols; even better selected from cetyl alcohol, stearic alcohol and their mixtures.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims further comprising at least one hydrophilic film-forming polymer (10), in particular chosen from hydroxyalkylcelluloses, gum arabic, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly chosen from a hydroxyethylcellulose, an extract of Senegal acacia with the INCI name: ACACIA SENEGAL GUM; and mixtures thereof.

17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising a liquid fatty phase (11), preferably comprising at least one non-volatile oil chosen in particular from non-volatile hydrocarbon oils.

18. Composition according to claim 19, comprising less than 5.0% by weight, more preferably less than 2.0% by weight of volatile oil(s) relative to the total weight of the composition, or even free of volatile oil.

19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, additionally comprising at least one hydrophilic film-forming polymer (10), preferably chosen from hydroxyalkylcelluloses, gum arabic and mixtures thereof, and more particularly a mixture comprising hydroxyethylcellulose and gum arabic extracted from acacia Senegal with the INCI name ACACIA SENEGAL GUM.

20. A composition according to any preceding claim in the form of an eyelash product such as mascara, an eyebrow product or an eye contour product such as eyeliner.

21. Set or kit for packaging and applying a cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibers comprising: - a packaging device comprising a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 20; - an applicator for said composition.

22. Process for coating keratin materials, in particular the skin around the eyelashes, the skin around the eyebrows, keratin fibers such as the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows, comprising a step of applying to said keratin materials at least one composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 20.

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