Cosmetic use of Melissa officinalis to reduce symptoms associated with stress

Abstract

Cosmetic use of Melissa officinalis to reduce the manifestations associated with stress The present invention relates to the field of extracts, active ingredients and cosmetic compositions for reducing the unsightly and / or unpleasant manifestations associated with a local increase in the production of cortisol in healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes and in particular the unsightly and / or unpleasant manifestations associated with psychological stress in healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes as well as the corresponding cosmetic care method. Figure for abstract: [Fig. 1]

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic use of Melissa officinalis to reduce symptoms associated with stress

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of extracts, active ingredients and cosmetic compositions for reducing unsightly and / or unpleasant manifestations associated with a local increase in the production of cortisol in healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes and in particular unsightly and / or unpleasant manifestations associated with psychological stress in healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0002] Cortisol is an endogenous glucocorticoid in humans. Endogenous glucocorticoids are released in response to various stressors, such as physical injury and psychological stress. They regulate biological processes, including growth, development, metabolism, and behavior.

[0003] Cortisol is produced via the hypothalamic-pituitary-adrenal axis, mainly by the liver, but also in the skin.

[0004] Stress is now a major component in our lives, leading to consequences both psychologically and on the appearance of the skin.

[0005] It has indeed been demonstrated that the increase in cortisol in the skin promotes its aging and in particular a reduction in the biomechanical properties of the skin, notably due to a reduction in the production of collagen and cell renewal (Terao, et al., jdermsci, 2016).

[0006] Activation of cortisol production occurs locally in the skin via the enzyme 11[3-hydroxy steroid dehydrogenase-1 (11[3-HSD1) which converts inactive cortisone into cortisol, thus playing a key role in the regulation of cortisol at the local level. The enzyme 11[3-HSD2 is responsible for the reverse reaction of conversion of cortisol into cortisone. These enzymes are widely expressed in the epidermis, particularly by keratinocytes (Terao, et al., jdermsci, 2016) and have a crucial impact on skin homeostasis (Jackson et al., H&PC Today, vol.l2(6),2017).

[0007] The manifestations of stress at the level of the skin and / or mucous membranes are intrinsically linked to specific biological mechanisms. These complex physiological responses, triggered by stress, require a targeted approach to alleviate their cutaneous effects.

[0008] Numerous means are known from the prior art for treating the manifestations of stress via general administration, in particular by acting on the regulation of cortisol produced by the liver.

[0009] Non-specific cosmetic compositions, although often effective for general skin problems, therefore prove insufficient in the face of these specific biological mechanisms induced by stress and in particular by the local increase in cortisol.

[0010] Since recent discoveries relating to the influence of cortisol on the appearance of the skin, there is therefore a need for new active ingredients which make it possible to regulate, after episodes of psychological stress, the local production of cortisol and the unsightly and / or uncomfortable manifestations associated with it by topical application to the skin and / or mucous membranes.

[0011] For example, patent FR3087657A1 is known from the prior art relating to the cosmetic use of an extract of the genus Primula to inhibit the enzyme 11[3-HSD1 in the skin without significant modification of the enzyme 11[3-HSD2, in particular to obtain anti-aging effects, to reinforce the barrier function, the elasticity and / or the suppleness of the skin.

[0012] The active ingredient PRIMADULCINE® from the company GREENPHARMA is also known, said active ingredient consisting essentially of an extract of Primula veris L. for its cosmetic use to inhibit the enzyme 11[3-HSD1, and therefore the production of cortisol, the first significant results of which are observed from a concentration of 0.5% of active ingredient.

[0013] Quite surprisingly, the applicant has developed a new cosmetic active ingredient comprising an extract of Melissa officinalis making it possible to meet the needs for cosmetic active ingredients capable of reducing the production of cortisol in the skin and / or mucous membranes and in particular by the keratinocytes of the skin and / or mucous membranes.

[0014] Lemon balm (Melissa officinalis') is a herbaceous perennial plant belonging to the Lamiaceae family. Growing up to 80cm, it has a characteristic mint-like appearance. The erect stem is sparsely branched at the base but becomes more so in the upper parts when flowering. The leaves are simple, toothed and dark bright green in color. Flowering takes place from June to September. White to pink, the flowers are grouped in groups of 3 or 6 in the leaf axils. The fruit consists of 4 small, ovoid, dark brown achenes.

[0015] Probably originating from Asia Minor, lemon balm has been known since Antiquity for its medicinal properties. The Greeks were already using it in the 4th century BC for its general sedative properties.

[0016] Application FR2876586A1 discloses the use of a composition comprising an extract of Melissa officinalis for preventing or treating stress, in particular chronic stress attacks, in association with a substance allowing dissolution in a digestive environment, this substance being preferred phosphatidylserine. This application therefore discloses the use of an extract for general use. There is no mention of the effect on the unsightly and / or unpleasant manifestations of stress on the skin and / or mucous membranes, nor of a use comprising topical administration on the skin and / or mucous membranes. Finally, according to this application, the effect of the composition on the production of cortisol is not due to the Melissa officinalis extract but to phosphatidylserine.

[0017] Also known from application EP2060192A1 is the use of Melissa officinalis as an ingredient in food compositions for combating the symptoms of stress, in particular for improving sensitivity and alertness in word recognition, for improving contentment and reducing anger. There is no mention therein of the effect on the unsightly and / or unpleasant manifestations of stress on the skin and / or mucous membranes, nor of a use comprising topical administration to the skin and / or mucous membranes.

[0018] Finally, we know from the publication Cases J, et al. (Med J Nutrition Metab. 2011 Dec; 4(3):211-218) the use of a Melissa officinalis extract by general route for the reduction of manifestations of anxiety and insomnia. The publication specifies that no manifestations at the skin level were reported before or after the treatment.

[0019] The present invention relates to an extract of Melissa officinalis.

[0020] In one embodiment, the Melissa officinalis extract according to the present invention is derived from all or part of the plant.

[0021] In one embodiment, the Melissa officinalis extract according to the present invention is derived from at least one part of the plant chosen from the group comprising: the leaves, the stems, the flowers and / or the roots.

[0022] In one embodiment, the Melissa officinalis extract according to the present invention is derived from at least one part of the plant chosen from the group comprising: the leaves, the stems and / or the flowers.

[0023] In one embodiment, the Melissa officinalis extract according to the present invention is derived from the leaves of the plant.

[0024] In one embodiment, the Melissa officinalis extract according to the present invention is obtained by at least one extraction step chosen from the group comprising maceration, leaching, decoction, reflux extraction, percolation, flash-expansion, extrusion, extraction using a supercritical fluid, extraction using ultrasound and / or microwaves.

[0025] In one embodiment, the Melissa officinalis extract according to the present invention is obtained by at least one maceration extraction step.

[0026] In one embodiment, the Melissa officinalis extract according to the present invention is dried and / or ground prior to extraction.

[0027] In one embodiment, the Melissa officinalis extract according to the present invention is dried prior to extraction.

[0028] In one embodiment, the Melissa officinalis extract according to the present invention is ground prior to extraction.

[0029] In one embodiment, the Melissa officinalis extract according to the present invention is obtained by extraction using a solvent or a mixture of solvents.

[0030] In one embodiment, the Melissa officinalis extract according to the present invention is obtained by extraction using a solvent or a mixture of solvents chosen from the group comprising water, an alcohol, a glycol and / or a polyol.

[0031] In one embodiment, the Melissa officinalis extract according to the present invention is obtained by aqueous extraction.

[0032] In one embodiment, the Melissa officinalis extract according to the present invention is obtained by extraction using a mixture of solvents chosen from the group comprising water / alcohol, water / glycol and / or water / polyol mixtures.

[0033] In one embodiment, the Melissa officinalis extract according to the present invention is obtained by extraction using a mixture of solvents chosen from the group comprising water / alcohol, water / glycol and / or water / polyol mixtures in a content ratio within a range from 99 / 1 to 1 / 99 (v / v).

[0034] In one embodiment, the Melissa officinalis extract according to the present invention is obtained by extraction using a mixture of solvents chosen from the group comprising water / alcohol, water / glycol and / or water / polyol mixtures in a content ratio within a range from 90 / 10 to 10 / 90 (v / v).

[0035] In one embodiment, the Melissa officinalis extract according to the present invention is obtained by extraction using a mixture of solvents chosen from the group comprising water / alcohol, water / glycol and / or water / polyol mixtures in a content ratio within a range from 80 / 20 to 20 / 80 (v / v).

[0036] In one embodiment, the Melissa officinalis extract according to the present invention is obtained by extraction using a mixture of solvents chosen from the group comprising water / alcohol, water / glycol and / or water / polyol mixtures in a content ratio within a range from 70 / 30 to 30 / 70 (v / v).

[0037] In one embodiment, the Melissa officinalis extract according to the present invention is obtained by extraction using a mixture of solvents chosen from the group comprising water / alcohol, water / glycol and / or water / polyol mixtures in a content ratio within a range from 60 / 40 to 40 / 60 (v / v).

[0038] In one embodiment, the Melissa officinalis extract according to the present invention is obtained by extraction using a mixture of solvents chosen from the group comprising water / alcohol, water / glycol and / or water / polyol mixtures in a ratio with contents ranging from 80 / 20 to 50 / 50 (v / v).

[0039] In one embodiment, the Melissa officinalis extract according to the present invention is obtained by extraction using a water / alcohol mixture.

[0040] In one embodiment, the Melissa officinalis extract according to the present invention is obtained by extraction using a water / ethanol mixture.

[0041] In one embodiment, the Melissa officinalis extract according to the present invention is obtained by extraction using a water / ethanol mixture in a content ratio ranging from 80 / 20 to 20 / 80 (v / v).

[0042] In one embodiment, the Melissa officinalis extract according to the present invention is obtained by extraction using a water / ethanol mixture in a range from 70 / 30 to 30 / 70 (v / v).

[0043] In one embodiment, the Melissa officinalis extract according to the present invention is obtained by extraction using a water / ethanol mixture in a content ratio ranging from 60 / 40 to 40 / 60 (v / v).

[0044] In one embodiment, the Melissa officinalis extract according to the present invention is obtained by extraction using a water / ethanol mixture in a content ratio ranging from 80 / 20 to 50 / 50 (v / v).

[0045] In one embodiment, the Melissa officinalis extract according to the present invention is obtained by at least one hot extraction step.

[0046] In one embodiment, the Melissa officinalis extract according to the present invention is obtained by at least one extraction step at a temperature in the range from 10 to 30°C.

[0047] In one embodiment, the Melissa officinalis extract according to the present invention is obtained by at least one extraction step at a temperature in the range from 15 to 25°C.

[0048] In one embodiment, the Melissa officinalis extract according to the present invention is obtained by at least one extraction step whose duration is within a range of 1 hour to 24 hours.

[0049] In one embodiment, the Melissa officinalis extract according to the present invention is obtained by at least one extraction step whose duration is within a range of 5 hours to 20 hours.

[0050] In one embodiment, the Melissa officinalis extract according to the present invention is obtained by at least one extraction step whose duration is within an interval ranging from 10 hours to 17 hours.

[0051] In one embodiment, the Melissa officinalis extract according to the present invention is obtained by at least one extraction step whose duration is within a range of 12 hours to 15 hours.

[0052] In one embodiment, the Melissa officinalis extract according to the present invention has a rosmarinic acid content in the range of 50 to 500 g / L.

[0053] In one embodiment, the Melissa officinalis extract according to the present invention has a rosmarinic acid content in a range from 100 to 400 g / L.

[0054] In one embodiment, the Melissa officinalis extract according to the present invention has a rosmarinic acid content in the range of 200 to 300 g / L.

[0055] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic active ingredient comprising an extract of Melissa officinalis according to the invention and at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent.

[0056] In one embodiment, the at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent is selected from the group comprising glycerol and / or water.

[0057] In one embodiment, the cosmetic active ingredient is characterized in that it has a mass content of Melissa officinalis extract according to the invention relative to the total mass of the cosmetic active ingredient in the range from 0.01% to 99% (m / m).

[0058] In one embodiment, the cosmetic active ingredient is characterized in that it has a mass content of Melissa officinalis extract according to the invention relative to the total mass of the cosmetic active ingredient in the range from 0.05% to 50% (m / m).

[0059] In one embodiment, the cosmetic active ingredient is characterized in that it has a mass content of Melissa officinalis extract according to the invention relative to the total mass of the cosmetic active ingredient in the range from 0.1% to 20% (m / m).

[0060] In one embodiment, the cosmetic active ingredient is characterized in that it has a mass content of Melissa officinalis extract according to the invention relative to the total mass of the cosmetic active ingredient in the range from 1% to 10% (m / m).

[0061] In one embodiment, the Melissa officinalis extract according to the present invention has a rosmarinic acid content in a range from 0.1 to 50 g / L.

[0062] In one embodiment, the Melissa officinalis extract according to the present invention has a rosmarinic acid content in a range from 1 to 20 g / L.

[0063] In one embodiment, the Melissa officinalis extract according to the present invention has a rosmarinic acid content in a range from 4 to 10 g / L.

[0064] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises the extract of Melissa officinalis according to the present invention or the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention, and further comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.

[0065] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises the extract of Melissa officinalis according to the present invention and at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.

[0066] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition is characterized in that it has a content of Melissa officinalis extract according to the present invention relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition comprised in the range from 1.105% to 10% (m / m).

[0067] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition is characterized in that it has a content of Melissa officinalis extract according to the present invention relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition comprised in the range from 1.10 4% to 1% (m / m).

[0068] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition is characterized in that it has a content of Melissa officinalis extract according to the present invention relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition comprised in the range from 1.103% to 0.1% (m / m).

[0069] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention, and further comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.

[0070] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition is characterized in that it has a content of cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition comprised in the range from 1.10 5% to 10% (m / m).

[0071] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition is characterized in that it has a content of cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition comprised in the range from 1.10 4% to 1% (m / m).

[0072] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition is characterized in that it has a content of cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition comprised in the range from 1.10 3% to 0.1% (m / m).

[0073] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition is characterized in that it is intended for topical administration to the skin and / or mucous membranes.

[0074] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient chosen from the list presented in Regulation (EU) No. 1129 / 2011 of the European Commission of November 11, 2011.

[0075] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient chosen from the list presented in Directive 2002 / 46 / EC of the European Parliament and of the Council of June 10, 2002.

[0076] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient selected from the group comprising: surfactants, polymers, copolymers, water-soluble polymers, humectants, fatty / oily components, hardened oils, synthetic triglycerides and diglycerides, waxes, hydrocarbons, higher fatty acids, higher alcohols, esters, essential oils, silicone oils, inorganic salts, inorganic acids, colorants, binders, disintegrants, diluents, flavoring agents, fillers, lubricants, wetting agents, suspending agents, emulsifying agents, antimicrobial and / or antioxidant preservatives, sweeteners, prebiotics, probiotics, pomegranate seed oil cake, chelating and / or complexing agents, coating agents, emollients, slip agents,plasticizers, aqueous solvents, veterinary feeds and / or buffer salts.

[0077] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one chelating and / or complexing agent.

[0078] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one chelating and / or complexing agent chosen from the group comprising cyclodextrin, citric acid and / or malic acid.

[0079] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one emollient.

[0080] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one emollient chosen from the group comprising vegetable oils, mineral oils, xylitol and / or propylene glycol.

[0081] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one slip agent.

[0082] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one slip agent chosen from the group comprising colloidal silica.

[0083] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one coating agent.

[0084] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one coating agent chosen from the group comprising cellulose derivatives, polyvinyls, starch.

[0085] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one plasticizer.

[0086] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition further comprises at least a plasticizer selected from the group comprising acetyltributyl citrate, glycerin, mannitol and / or sorbitol.

[0087] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one surfactant.

[0088] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "surfactant" means a compound which modifies the surface tension between two surfaces, phases. Generally speaking, these compounds are amphiphilic molecules and make it possible to solubilize two immiscible phases of a composition.

[0089] In one embodiment, the surfactant is selected from the group comprising anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, and / or silicone-based surfactants and / or fluorine-based surfactants.

[0090] In one embodiment, the anionic surfactants are selected from the group consisting of fatty acid soaps, sulfonate anionic surfactants, sulfate anionic surfactants, phosphate anionic surfactants, acylmethyltaurine salts, monoalkyl phosphates, acylglutamates, and / or isethionic acid ester salts.

[0091] In one embodiment, the cationic surfactants are selected from the group comprising cationic surfactants of amine salt type and / or cationic surfactants of quaternary ammonium type (tetraalkylammonium type and pyridinium type).

[0092] In one embodiment, the nonionic surfactants are selected from the group consisting of glycerin fatty acid esters, propylene glycol fatty acid esters, sorbitan fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene sorbitol tetraoleic acid, polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers, polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycols, polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene alkyl ethers, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene castor oils, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oils, and / or polyglycerin fatty acid esters.

[0093] In one embodiment, the amphoteric surfactants are selected from the group comprising imidazoline-type, betaine-type and / or amino acid-type surfactants.

[0094] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one water-soluble polymer.

[0095] In one embodiment, the water-soluble polymer is selected from the group comprising sodium alginate, propylene glycol esters of alginic acid, gum arabic, xanthan gum, pectin, gum tragacanth, sodium carboxymethylcellulose, methylcellulose, carboxyvinyl polymers, polyethylene glycol, polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinylpyrrolidone, cationized cellulose, cationized dextran, cationized dextrin, chitosan, cationized vinylpyrrolidone polymers, chloride polymers N,N-dimethyl-3,5-methylenepiperidinium, milk protein, soy protein, gelatin, egg protein, sodium casein and / or whey protein.

[0096] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one humectant.

[0097] In one embodiment, the humectant is selected from the group comprising polyols, amino acids, mucopolysaccharides, proteins, biological extracts, fermentation metabolites, polysaccharides, plant extracts, phospholipids and / or ceramides.

[0098] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one emollient.

[0099] In one embodiment, the emollient is selected from the group consisting of fats and oils, including soybean oil, bran oil, jojoba oil, avocado oil, almond oil, cocoa oil, olive oil, sesame oil, Persian oil, castor oil and / or palm oil, corn oil, mineral oils, mink oil, beef tallow and / or lard.

[0100] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one synthetic triglyceride and / or diglyceride.

[0101] In one embodiment, the synthetic triglycerides and diglycerides are selected from the group comprising myristic acid glyceride and / or 2-ethylhexanoic acid glyceride.

[0102] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one wax.

[0103] In one embodiment, the wax is selected from the group comprising camauba wax, spermaceti, beeswax and / or lanolin.

[0104] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one hydrocarbon.

[0105] In one embodiment, the hydrocarbon is selected from the group comprising paraffin, petrolatum, microcrystalline wax, ceresin, squalane and / or pristane.

[0106] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one higher fatty acid.

[0107] In one embodiment, the higher fatty acid is selected from the group consisting of lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid and / or isostearic acid.

[0108] In one embodiment, the higher alcohols are selected from the group consisting of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, cholesterol and / or 2-hexyldecanol.

[0109] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one ester.

[0110] In one embodiment, the ester is selected from the group consisting of cetyl octanoate, myristyl lactate, cetyl lactate, isopropyl myristate, myristyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl adipate, butyl stearate, decyl oleate and / or cholesterol isostearate.

[0111] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one essential oil.

[0112] In one embodiment, the essential oil is selected from the group consisting of mentha oil, jasmine oil, camphor oil, Japanese cypress oil, bitter orange oil, ryu oil, turpentine oil, cinnamon oil, bergamot oil, mandarin oil, calamus oil, pine oil, lavender oil, bay oil, clove oil, hiba oil, rose oil, eucalyptus oil, lemon oil, peppermint oil, thyme oil, rose oil, sage oil, menthol, cineole, eugenol, citral, citronellal, borneol, linalool, geraniol, camphor, thymol, spilanthol, pinene, limonene and / or terpenoid compounds.

[0113] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one inorganic salt.

[0114] In one embodiment, the inorganic salts are selected from the group consisting of sodium carbonate, sodium hydrogen carbonate, sodium sesquicarbonate, borax, sodium sulfate, sodium sulfide, sodium nitrate, sodium thiosulfate, sodium polyphosphate, sodium phosphate, potassium chloride, potassium sulfide, calcium oxide, magnesium oxide, calcium carbonate and / or magnesium carbonate.

[0115] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one inorganic acid.

[0116] In one embodiment, the inorganic acids are selected from the group comprising boric acid, metasilicic acid and / or silicic anhydride.

[0117] In one embodiment, the colorants are selected from the group consisting of yellow No. 4, blue No. 1, yellow No. 202, chlorophyll, riboflavin, safflower, crocin and / or anthraquinone.

[0118] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one polymer.

[0119] In one embodiment, the polymers are selected from the group consisting of acrylic resins, styrene resins, epoxy resins, nylon, polyethylene, polypropylene, polyvinyl chloride, polyethylene terephthalate resins and polytetrafluoroethane, and / or copolymers of these polymers.

[0120] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one binder.

[0121] In one embodiment, the binders are selected from the group comprising crystalline cellulose, cellulose derivatives, gum arabic, corn starch, pregelatinized starch, polyvinylpyrrolidone, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose or gelatins.

[0122] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one disintegrant.

[0123] In one embodiment, the disintegrants are selected from the group comprising corn starch, potato starch, sodium carboxymethylcellulose, alginic acid, L-HPC and / or sodium starch glycolate.

[0124] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one filler.

[0125] In one embodiment, the fillers are chosen from the group comprising carbohydrates, in particular lactose, microcrystalline cellulose and / or calcium hydrogen phosphate.

[0126] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one lubricant.

[0127] In one embodiment, the lubricants are selected from the group comprising magnesium stearate, talc and / or silica.

[0128] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one lubricant.

[0129] In one embodiment, the wetting agents are selected from the group comprising sodium lauryl sulfate.

[0130] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one suspending agent.

[0131] In one embodiment, the suspending agents are selected from the group consisting of sorbitol syrup, cellulose derivatives, animal and / or vegetable gelatin, agar, guar gum, gum arabic, xanthan gum, pectin, carrageenan, mannitol syrup and / or hydrogenated edible fats.

[0132] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one emulsifying agent.

[0133] In one embodiment, the emulsifying agents are selected from the group comprising lecithin and / or acacia.

[0134] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one preservative.

[0135] In one embodiment, the preservatives are selected from the group comprising methyl or propyl p-hydroxybenzoates, ascorbic acid, citric acid, malic acid, vitamin E and / or sorbic acid.

[0136] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one other cosmetic active ingredient.

[0137] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one other cosmetic active ingredient intended for the cosmetic treatment of tightness, itching, sebum production, extrinsic aging of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, deterioration of the complexion of healthy skin, deterioration of the barrier function of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, dryness and / or dehydration of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, thinning of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes and / or deterioration of the biomechanical properties of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0138] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition does not comprise phosphatidylserine.

[0139] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is characterized in that the cosmetic composition is chosen from the group comprising creams, emulsions, lotions, gels for healthy skin and / or integuments, beauty masks, foundations (liquids, pastes, powders), powders for makeup, powders to be applied after bathing, powders for body hygiene, preparations for baths and showers (salts, mousses, gels), sun products, sunless tanning products, products for whitening the skin, anti-aging products, shaving products (soaps, mousses, lotions), makeup and makeup removal products, products intended to be applied to the lips, dental hygiene products, moisturizing products.

[0140] The subject of the present invention is the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of an extract of Melissa officinalis according to the invention and / or of a cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention comprising said extract of Melissa officinalis and / or of a cosmetic composition according to the invention comprising said extract of Melissa officinalis and / or said cosmetic active ingredient by topical route on healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes to reduce the unsightly and / or unpleasant manifestations associated with a local increase in the production of cortisol in healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0141] The present invention also relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of an extract of Melissa officinalis according to the invention and / or of a cosmetic active agent according to the invention comprising said extract of Melissa officinalis and / or of a cosmetic composition according to the invention comprising said extract of Melissa officinalis and / or said cosmetic active agent by topical route on healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes to reduce the unsightly and / or unpleasant manifestations associated with a local increase in the production of cortisol associated with psychological stress. chologic at the level of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0142] The present invention also relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of an extract of Melissa officinalis according to the invention and / or of a cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention comprising said extract of Melissa officinalis and / or of a cosmetic composition according to the invention comprising said extract of Melissa officinalis and / or said cosmetic active ingredient by topical route on healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes to reduce the unsightly and / or unpleasant manifestations associated with psychological stress in healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0143] The subject of the present invention is the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of the Melissa officinalis extract according to the invention by topical route on healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes to reduce the unsightly and / or unpleasant manifestations associated with a local increase in the production of cortisol in healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0144] The present invention also relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of the Melissa officinalis extract according to the invention by topical route on healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes to reduce the unsightly and / or unpleasant manifestations associated with a local increase in the production of cortisol associated with psychological stress at the level of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0145] The present invention also relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of the Melissa officinalis extract according to the invention by topical route on healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes to reduce the unsightly and / or unpleasant manifestations associated with psychological stress at the level of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0146] The subject of the present invention is the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention by topical route on healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes to reduce the unsightly and / or unpleasant manifestations associated with a local increase in the production of cortisol in healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0147] The present invention also relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention by topical route on healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes to reduce the unsightly and / or unpleasant manifestations associated with a local increase in the production of cortisol associated with psychological stress at the level of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0148] The present invention also relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention by topical route on healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes to reduce unsightly and / or unpleasant manifestations associated with psychological stress at the level of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0149] The subject of the present invention is the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of the cosmetic composition according to the invention by topical route on healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes to reduce the unsightly and / or unpleasant manifestations associated with a local increase in the production of cortisol in healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0150] The present invention also relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of the cosmetic composition according to the invention by topical route on healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes to reduce the unsightly and / or unpleasant manifestations associated with a local increase in the production of cortisol associated with psychological stress at the level of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0151] The present invention also relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of the cosmetic composition according to the invention by topical route on healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes to reduce the unsightly and / or unpleasant manifestations associated with psychological stress at the level of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0152] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "healthy skin" or "healthy mucosa" means an area of ​​skin or mucosa deemed "non-pathological" by a dermatologist, i.e. not presenting inflammation, infection, scar, disease, wound, injury and / or other dermatoses.

[0153] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “psychological stress” means the physical and / or emotional response to anxiety, pressures and / or difficult situations in daily life.

[0154] In one embodiment, psychological stress does not include oxidative stress, photo-induced stress and / or chemical stress.

[0155] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is characterized in that the application is carried out on the skin and / or mucous membranes of at least one part of the body chosen from the group comprising: the legs, the feet, the armpits, the hands, the stomach, the arms, the thighs, the hips, the buttocks, the waist, the crotch, the groin, the torso, the back, the neck, the décolleté, the scalp and / or the skin of the face, including the eye contour, the lips, the forehead, the cheeks, the nose, the temples, the T-zone and / or the chin.

[0156] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is characterized in that at least one unsightly and / or unpleasant manifestation is chosen from the group comprising: tightness, itching, sebum production, extrinsic aging of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, deterioration of the complexion of healthy skin, deterioration of the barrier function of the skin healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, dryness and / or dehydration of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, thinning of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes and / or degradation of the biomechanical properties of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0157] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is characterized in that it makes it possible to reduce the tightness associated with a local increase in the production of cortisol and / or psychological stress in healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0158] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is characterized in that it makes it possible to reduce the tightness associated with a local increase in the production of cortisol in healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0159] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is characterized in that it makes it possible to reduce the tightness associated with psychological stress in healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0160] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is characterized in that it makes it possible to reduce itching associated with a local increase in the production of cortisol and / or psychological stress in healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0161] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is characterized in that it makes it possible to reduce itching associated with a local increase in the production of cortisol in healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0162] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is characterized in that it makes it possible to reduce itching associated with psychological stress in healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0163] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is characterized in that it makes it possible to reduce the production of sebum associated with a local increase in the production of cortisol and / or psychological stress at the level of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0164] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is characterized in that it makes it possible to reduce the production of sebum associated with a local increase in the production of cortisol in healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0165] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is characterized in that it makes it possible to reduce the production of sebum associated with psychological stress in healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0166] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is characterized in that it allows for the reduction of imperfections caused by the production of sebum associated with a local increase in the production of cortisol and / or psychological stress in healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0167] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is characterized in that it makes it possible to reduce imperfections caused by the production of sebum associated with a local increase in the production of cortisol in healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0168] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is characterized in that it makes it possible to reduce imperfections caused by the production of sebum associated with psychological stress in healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0169] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is characterized in that it makes it possible to reduce the extrinsic aging of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes associated with a local increase in the production of cortisol and / or psychological stress at the level of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0170] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is characterized in that it makes it possible to reduce the extrinsic aging of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes associated with a local increase in the production of cortisol in the healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0171] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is characterized in that it makes it possible to reduce the extrinsic aging of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes associated with psychological stress at the level of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0172] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is characterized in that it makes it possible to reduce the degradation of the complexion of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes associated with a local increase in the production of cortisol and / or psychological stress at the level of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0173] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is characterized in that it makes it possible to reduce the degradation of the complexion of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes associated with a local increase in the production of cortisol in healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0174] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is characterized in that it makes it possible to reduce the degradation of the complexion of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes associated with psychological stress at the level of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0175] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is characterized in that the degradation of the complexion of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes is chosen from the group comprising the degradation of the homogeneity of the complexion of healthy skin and / or the radiance of the complexion of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0176] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is characterized in that the degradation of the complexion of healthy skin is a degradation of the homogeneity of the complexion of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0177] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is characterized in that the deterioration of the complexion of healthy skin is a deterioration of the radiance of the complexion of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0178] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is characterized in that it makes it possible to reduce the degradation of the barrier function of the skin and / or healthy mucous membranes associated with a local increase in the production of cortisol and / or psychological stress at the level of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0179] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is characterized in that it makes it possible to reduce the degradation of the barrier function of the skin and / or healthy mucous membranes associated with a local increase in the production of cortisol in the healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0180] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is characterized in that it makes it possible to reduce the degradation of the barrier function of the skin and / or healthy mucous membranes associated with psychological stress at the level of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0181] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is characterized in that it makes it possible to reduce the dryness and / or dehydration of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes associated with a local increase in the production of cortisol and / or psychological stress at the level of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0182] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is characterized in that it makes it possible to reduce the dryness and / or dehydration of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes associated with a local increase in the production of cortisol in the healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0183] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is characterized in that it makes it possible to reduce the dryness and / or dehydration of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes associated with psychological stress at the level of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0184] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is characterized in that it makes it possible to reduce the thinning of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes associated with a local increase in the production of cortisol. and / or psychological stress in healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0185] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is characterized in that it makes it possible to reduce the thinning of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes associated with a local increase in the production of cortisol in healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0186] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is characterized in that it makes it possible to reduce the thinning of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes associated with psychological stress at the level of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0187] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is characterized in that it makes it possible to reduce the degradation of the biomechanical properties of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes associated with a local increase in the production of cortisol and / or psychological stress at the level of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0188] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is characterized in that it makes it possible to reduce the degradation of the biomechanical properties of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes associated with a local increase in the production of cortisol in the healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0189] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is characterized in that it makes it possible to reduce the degradation of the biomechanical properties of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes associated with psychological stress at the level of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0190] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is characterized in that the biomechanical properties of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes are chosen from the group comprising the elasticity of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes and / or the firmness of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0191] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is characterized in that it makes it possible to reduce the degradation of elasticity associated with a local increase in the production of cortisol and / or psychological stress at the level of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0192] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is characterized in that it makes it possible to reduce the degradation of elasticity associated with a local increase in the production of cortisol in healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0193] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is characterized in that it makes it possible to reduce the degradation of elasticity associated with the psychological stress on healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0194] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is characterized in that it makes it possible to reduce the degradation of firmness associated with a local increase in the production of cortisol and / or psychological stress at the level of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0195] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is characterized in that it makes it possible to reduce the degradation of firmness associated with a local increase in the production of cortisol in healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0196] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is characterized in that it makes it possible to reduce the degradation of firmness associated with psychological stress in healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0197] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is characterized in that it makes it possible to maintain and / or inhibit the local production of cortisol in healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0198] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “maintaining cortisol production” means preventing the local increase in cortisol production.

[0199] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is for inhibiting the local production of cortisol in healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0200] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is characterized in that the percentage of inhibition of the local production of cortisol at the level of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes is within a range from 1% to 75%.

[0201] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is characterized in that the percentage of inhibition of the local production of cortisol at the level of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes is within a range from 10% to 50%.

[0202] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is characterized in that the percentage of inhibition of the local production of cortisol at the level of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes is within a range from 20% to 45%.

[0203] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is characterized in that it makes it possible to maintain and / or inhibit the local production of cortisol in the epidermis of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0204] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is characterized in that the percentage of inhibition of the local production of cortisol in the epidermis of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes is included in an in- range from 1% to 75%.

[0205] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is characterized in that the percentage of inhibition of the local production of cortisol in the epidermis of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes is within a range from 10% to 50%.

[0206] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is characterized in that the percentage of inhibition of the local production of cortisol in the epidermis of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes is within a range of 20% to 45%.

[0207] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is characterized in that it makes it possible to maintain and / or inhibit the local production of cortisol by the keratinocytes of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0208] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is characterized in that it makes it possible to maintain and / or inhibit the local production of cortisol by the keratinocytes of the epidermis of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0209] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is characterized in that the percentage of inhibition of the local production of cortisol by the keratinocytes of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes is within a range from 1% to 75%.

[0210] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is characterized in that the percentage of inhibition of the local production of cortisol by the keratinocytes of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes is within a range from 10% to 50%.

[0211] In one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the present invention is characterized in that the percentage of inhibition of the local production of cortisol by the keratinocytes of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes is within a range from 20% to 45%.

[0212] The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic care method for reducing unsightly and / or unpleasant manifestations associated with a local increase in the production of cortisol in healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, comprising the topical application to healthy skin and / or at least one healthy mucous membrane of an extract of Melissa officinalis according to the invention and / or of a cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention comprising said extract of Melissa officinalis and / or of a cosmetic composition according to the invention comprising said extract of Melissa officinalis and / or said cosmetic active ingredient.

[0213] The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic care method for reducing the unsightly and / or unpleasant manifestations associated with a local increase in the production of cortisol associated with psychological stress in healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes comprising the topical application to healthy skin and / or at least one healthy mucous membrane of an extract of Melissa officinalis according to the invention and / or of a cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention comprising said extract of Melissa officinalis and / or of a cosmetic composition according to the invention comprising said extract of Melissa officinalis and / or said cosmetic active ingredient.

[0214] The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic care method for reducing unsightly and / or unpleasant manifestations associated with psychological stress in healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, comprising the topical application to healthy skin and / or at least one healthy mucous membrane of a Melissa officinalis extract according to the invention and / or a cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention comprising said Melissa officinalis extract and / or a cosmetic composition according to the invention comprising said Melissa officinalis extract and / or said cosmetic active ingredient.

[0215] In one embodiment, the unsightly and / or unpleasant manifestations treated by any of the cosmetic care methods according to the present invention are as previously defined.

[0216] In the examples, all percentages are given by weight unless otherwise indicated, temperature is expressed in degrees Celsius unless otherwise indicated, and pressure is atmospheric pressure unless otherwise indicated.

[0217] EXAMPLES

[0218] Example 1. Processes for preparing the Melissa officinalis extract according to the invention and the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention.

[0219] Example 1.1: Process for preparing an extract of Melissa officinalis leaves according to the invention in the form of a solution.

[0220] A quantity of 100 g by mass of dried and crushed Melissa officinalis leaves into 1 cm fragments (origin France) is subjected to an extraction step by maceration in a solvent consisting of a water: ethanol mixture (70: 30 (v / v)), at a temperature of 20°C for a period of 14 hours.

[0221] The solvent comprising the extract is filtered on a plate filter with a particle size of 6-15 μm.

[0222] The extract is then concentrated under vacuum from 150 to 40 mbar at 60°C to evaporate ethanol until an aqueous extract comprising 2.8% dry matter is obtained, then filtered through a plate filter with a particle size of 1.5-6 μm.

[0223] An extract of Melissa officinalis leaves according to the invention is obtained in the form of an aqueous extract.

[0224] Example 1.2: Process for preparing a cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention.

[0225] The extract obtained by the process according to Example 1.1 is recovered. Glycerin vegetable oil and water are added to obtain a final mass content as indicated below in [Table 1]. [Tables 1] Mass content (%) GLYCERIN NE 80 WATER 17.5 Extract according to example 1.1 2.5

[0226] A final decontamination step at 100°C for 2 hours is carried out.

[0227] The cosmetic active ingredient comprising an extract of Melissa officinalis leaves according to the invention diluted in a cosmetically acceptable solvent is obtained.

[0228] Example 2: Cosmetic compositions

[0229] Example 2.1: Cosmetic composition in the form of a cosmetic facial care cream comprising the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention.

[0230] A cosmetic composition according to the invention in the form of a cosmetic facial care cream is prepared from the eight phases detailed in [Table 2]. [Tables 2] Phase A Trade name INCI names Mixed Mass content (%) DEMINERALISED WATER AQUA (WATER) 68.45 DERMOFEEL PA-12 SODIUM PHYTATE 0.05 DERMOSOFT 700B LEVULINIC ACID 0.8 SODIUM LE- VULINATE GLYCERIN AQUA (WATER) SODIUM BENZOATE SODIUM BENZOATE 0.2 B OUVRICARE S XANTHAN GUM 0.5 GLYCERIN RSPO MB GLYCERIN 3 c GLYCERYL STEARATE CITRATE GLYCERYL STEARATE CITRATE 2 COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE 5 ORGANIC SHEA BUTTER BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (SHEA) BUTTER 3 GLYCERYL CAPRYLATE GLYCERYL CAPRYLATE 0.3 CETEARYL ALCOHOL CETEARYL ALCOHOL 3.5 SUNFLOWER (OIL) ORGANIC OLEIC DEODORIZED HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED OIL 3.5 GLYCERYL STEARATE GLYCERYL STEARATE 2 TRIETHYL CITRATE TRIETHYL CITRATE 5.5 D PARFUM PARFUM (FRAGRANCE) 0.9 LIMONENE TERPINEOL Citrus Aurantium Peel Oil VANILLIN PINENE LINALOOL TOCOPHEROL TOCOPHEROL 0.3 E Cosmetic active ingredient according to example 1.2. 1

[0231] The first step in the preparation process is to mix the ingredients of the phase A in a glass beaker of suitable size and heat this mixture to 80°C with stirring (800 RPM). Phase B is prepared by mixing the ingredients and then added to phase A with stirring (1800 RPM) for 20 minutes. Phase C is prepared by mixing the ingredients and heating to 80°C, then emulsification with stirring (2500-3000 RPM) of this phase C with the mixture of aqueous phases A and B is carried out for 10 minutes so as to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion. The emulsion obtained is cooled to 60°C. Phase D is added to the emulsion with stirring (2500 RPM) for 5 minutes. The emulsion is then cooled to 35°C. Phase H comprising the cosmetic active ingredient according to example 1.2. (according to the invention) is added with stirring (1600 RPM) for 5 minutes.

[0232] Example 3: Chemical characterization.

[0233] Example 3.1: Determination of the rosmarinic acid content of the Melissa officinalis extract according to the invention.

[0234] A determination of the rosmarinic acid content of the Melissa officinalis extract according to example 1.1 is carried out by high-performance liquid chromatography coupled with a UV-visible detector and using a commercial standard (Extrasynthese, France).

[0235] The Melissa officinalis extract according to Example 1.1 has a rosmarinic acid content of 236 g / L.

[0236] Example 3.2: Determination of the rosmarinic acid content of the active ingredient according to the invention.

[0237] A determination of the rosmarinic acid content of the cosmetic active ingredient obtained according to example 1.2 is carried out by high-performance liquid chromatography coupled with a UV-visible detector and using a commercial standard (Extrasynthese, France).

[0238] The active ingredient obtained according to example 1.2 has a rosmarinic acid content of 5.9 g / L.

[0239] Example 4: Evaluation of the activity of the extract and the active ingredient according to the invention.

[0240] Example 4.1: Evaluation of the activity on the production of cortisol of the active ingredient according to the invention.

[0241] Human keratinocytes isolated from the epidermis of a 47-year-old donor were cultured in monolayers until reaching 80% confluence. They were incubated for 1 hour in the absence (condition "Control") or in the presence of IL-1 alpha at ng / mL to induce stress promoting the release of cortisol. The cells were then treated for 24 hours in the absence (condition "Stress") or in the presence of increasing sub-cytotoxic concentrations (conditions "Stress + Active" 0.01%, 0.03% and 0.1%) of a cosmetic active ingredient obtained according to Example 1.2 comprising the extract of Melissa officinalis leaves according to the invention.

[0242] After 24 hours of incubation, the cortisol released into the culture supernatants was measured by a specific ELISA kit (Invitrogen™, EIAHCOR) following the re supplier's instructions with reading at 450 nm in a microplate reader (Thermo Scientific™ Fluoroskan™ FL). Proteins contained in cell lysates were quantified by spectrometric-colorimetric method (Bradford method) in order to normalize the amount of cortisol to the amount of total protein. The level of significance between the “Control” and “Stress” conditions was determined using the Student t test (#: p<0.05). A one-way analysis of variance (one-way ANOVA) followed by a Holm-Sidak test (*: p<0.05) was used to determine the significance between the “Stress” and “Stress + Active” conditions.

[0243] The results are presented in [Table 3] and the deviation from the “Control” condition is shown in the graph presented in [Fig.l], with from left to right the conditions “Control”, “Stress”, “Stress + Active according to example 1.2 at 0.03%” and “Stress + Active according to example 1.2 at 0.1%”. [Tables 3] Control Stress Stress + Active according to example 1.2 (0.03% v / v) Stress + Active according to example 1.2 (0.1% v / v) Cortisol (ng / mg) 140 270.6 231.9 215.6 125.7 260.8 224.2 232.7 132.6 289.2 256.8 199 Mean 132.8 273.5 237.6 215.8 Standard deviation 7.2 14.4 17.0 16.9 Difference vs Control (%) 100.0 206.0 179.0 162.5 P-value p<0.001 p<0.05 p<0.01

[0244] The results demonstrate that the active ingredient according to the invention makes it possible to significantly reduce the production of cortisol in the keratinocytes of the epidermis of the skin and / or mucous membranes at very low concentrations of 0.03% (v / v).

[0245] Given that the Melissa officinalis extract according to the present invention is itself diluted to 2.5% (v / v) in the cosmetic active ingredient, the Melissa officinalis extract according to the present invention exhibits particularly surprising activity at very low concentrations.

Claims

Claims

1. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a Melissa officinalis extract and / or a cosmetic active ingredient comprising said Melissa officinalis extract and / or a cosmetic composition comprising said Melissa officinalis extract and / or said cosmetic active ingredient topically on healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes to reduce unsightly and / or unpleasant manifestations associated with a local increase in the production of cortisol in healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

2. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a Melissa officinalis extract and / or a cosmetic active ingredient comprising said Melissa officinalis extract and / or a cosmetic composition comprising said Melissa officinalis extract and / or said cosmetic active ingredient topically on healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes to reduce unsightly and / or unpleasant manifestations associated with psychological stress in healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

3. Cosmetic use according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that at least one unsightly and / or unpleasant manifestation is chosen from the group comprising: tightness, itching, sebum production, extrinsic aging of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, deterioration of the complexion of healthy skin, deterioration of the barrier function of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, dryness and / or dehydration of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, thinning of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes and / or deterioration of the biomechanical properties of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

4. Cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the Melissa officinalis extract comes from at least one part of the plant chosen from the group comprising: the leaves, the stems, the flowers and / or the roots.

5. Cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the extract of Melissa officinalis is obtained by at least one extraction step chosen from the group comprising maceration, leaching, decoction, reflux extraction, percolation, flash-detenting, extrusion, extraction using a supercritical fluid, extraction using ultrasound and / or microwaves.

6. Cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the Melissa officinalis extract is obtained by at least one maceration extraction step.

7. Cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the extract of Melissa officinalis is obtained by aqueous extraction.

8. Cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetic active ingredient has a mass content of Melissa officinalis extract relative to the total mass of the cosmetic active ingredient in the range from 0.01% to 99% (m / m).

9. Cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetic composition has a content of extract according to the invention relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition comprised in the range from 1.10-5% to 10% (m / m).

10. Non-therapeutic cosmetic care method for reducing unsightly and / or unpleasant manifestations associated with a local increase in the production of cortisol in healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, comprising the topical application to healthy skin and / or at least one healthy mucous membrane of an extract of Melissa officinalis and / or of a cosmetic active ingredient comprising said extract of Melissa officinalis and / or of a cosmetic composition comprising said extract of Melissa officinalis and / or said cosmetic active ingredient.

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