New nail polish containing a lipid extract of the aerial parts of the halophyte plant Crithmum maritimum; its use in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals.

Abstract

Composition in the form of a nail polish consisting of: A nail polish base and A lipid extract of the aerial parts of the halophyte plant Crithmum maritimum in a mass proportion of between 0.1% by mass and 2% by mass of said nail polish base and in which the constituent solvent of said lipid extract is a mixture of triglycerides of fatty acids which have eight to ten carbon atoms; its use in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals.

Description

Title of the invention: New nail polish comprising a lipid extract of the aerial parts of the halophyte plant Crithmum maritimum; its use in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. Technical field of the invention

[0001] The invention relates to the fields of the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries. It concerns a new nail polish and its use to protect nails against exposome-induced damage. Biological and environmental contexts

[0002] The nail is essentially composed of a hard, flat, rectangular plate, closely connected to the nail bed. During the formation of the nail plate, the keratinocytes of the germinal matrix flatten due to the fragmentation of the cell nuclei and the condensation of their cytoplasm to form a flat plane of keratinized cells, whose cell borders are delimited (unlike hair).

[0003] Nail health results not only from internal factors such as age, genetics or nutrition, which influence the characteristics of nails during their growth from the germinal matrix, but also from external factors such as environmental stresses, which influence the structure of the nail and its appearance.

[0004] At the molecular level, the differentiation of keratinocytes into corneocytes involves the association of intermediate keratin filaments to form a complex scaffold that accumulates in the cytoplasm of terminally differentiating corneocytes and fills the entire interior of the cell, primarily providing the mechanical strength of the nails. The associated keratins are structurally organized into superimposed layers through a cross-linking process, resulting in high cohesion of the overall structure of the nail plate. The cross-linking of keratin filaments influences the characteristic properties of the nail plate, such as stability and strength.

[0005] Previous proteomic analyses of nails and hair have described a group of proteins, some of which are present only in the nail plate (keratins K5, K6A, K14, K17 and junctional proteins DSG1, EP-PC1). Keratins are the basic components of nails capable of self-assembling into filaments.

[0006] Damage to nails by external factors is associated with unsightly changes in their appearance due to physical changes and structural chemicals leading to weakness, brittleness, discoloration and streaking, among other things.

[0007] Approximately twenty percent of the French population suffers from brittle nails. This brittleness is characterized by the appearance of cracks and scaling. The nails become soft and lose their elasticity.

[0008] Nail keratins are prime targets for detrimental modifications, such as carbonylation, due to their high degree of exposure to the environment (UV radiation, pollution, chemical agents), which may partly explain the molecular basis of the physico-chemical modifications resulting in fragile and therefore brittle nails.

[0009] An ex vivo experimental model on nails has thus been developed by the company OxiProteomics, allowing the analysis of these modifications. A decrease in the mechanical strength of the nails is indeed observed following exposome stress. Thanks to a proteomic approach coupled with image analysis, keratin carbonylation can be identified and measured. Thus, chemical and physical stresses induce oxidative damage to the structural proteins of comeocytes.

[0010] A significant increase in protein oxidation (carbonylation) is observed in nail keratins, primarily following exposure to UVA radiation and chemical agents. Since nails cannot be repaired when damaged, protecting their main proteins from carbonylation could be an effective approach to protecting nails from exposome-induced oxidative stress. The exposome concept refers to the cumulative effect of exposures to environmental factors, particularly on nails, which complements the effect of the genome. State of the art

[0011] There are numerous publications disclosing methods for strengthening or hardening weakened nails.

[0012] The UK patent application published under number GB 2 196 978 A discloses a nail polish comprising glyoxal.

[0013] The European patent application published under number EP 1 408 917 Al discloses a nail polish comprising citral described as a nail hardener.

[0014] International application published under number WO 2021 / 234270 A1 discloses a cosmetic nail care composition comprising, as a cosmetic active ingredient, an aqueous extract of chestnut. This composition is described as improving the surface condition of the nail. Technical problem

[0015] As part of their research aimed at reducing the damage caused to nails by the exposome, the inventors have developed for this purpose a new composition in the form of a nail polish. Description of the invention

[0016] According to a first aspect, the invention relates to a composition consisting of: A. A base coat of nail polish and B. A lipid extract of the aerial parts of the halophyte plant Crithmum maritimum in a mass proportion of between 0.1% by mass and 2% by mass of said nail lacquer base and wherein the constituent solvent of said lipid extract is a mixture of fatty acid triglycerides comprising eight to ten carbon atoms.

[0017] According to a particular aspect of the present invention, said lipid extract of the aerial parts of the halophyte plant Crithmum maritimum is present in the composition as defined above in a mass proportion of between 0.5% by mass and 1% by mass of said nail polish base.

[0018] According to another particular aspect of the present invention, the constituent solvent of said lipid extract of said lipid extract of the aerial parts of the halophyte plant Crithmum maritimum present in the composition as defined above, is a mixture of glyceryl tridecanoate and glyceryl trioctanoate.

[0019] According to another particular aspect of the present invention, in the composition as defined above, said nail polish base comprises, by mass, 100% of:

[0020] A1) From 10% to 35% by mass of a film-forming agent or a mixture of film-forming agents,

[0021] A2) From 5% to 15% by mass of plasticizing agent or a mixture of agents plasticizers, and

[0022] A3) From 50% to 80% by mass of an organic solvent or a mixture of solvents organic.

[0023] Said nail polish base further comprises, in particular, 100% of its mass:

[0024] A1) From 0.1% to 2% by mass of an auxiliary agent or a mixture of auxiliary agents selected from dyes and compounds absorbing ultraviolet rays.

[0025] Within the framework of the present invention, the components present in the nail lacquer base constituting the composition as defined above are adapted for implementation in a topical application on the nails.

[0026] According to a particular aspect of the present invention,

[0027] A1) the film-forming agent(s) present in the nail polish base are chosen from the group consisting of polyurethanes, acrylic polymers, vinyl polymers such as polyvinyl butyral, copolymer (adipic acid / neopentyl / glycol / trimellitic anhydride) and cellulosic polymers, such as nitrocellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxycellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, cellulose acetobutyrate or cellulose acetopropionate;

[0028] A2) the plasticizing agent(s) present in the nail polish base are chosen in the group consisting of glycerol carbonate, dilauryl carbonate, dipentyl carbonate, dibutyl phthalate, tributyl acetyl citrate, camphor, trimethylpentanediyl bibenzoate, glycerol benzoate and glycol esters such as neopentyl glycol or propylene glycol;

[0029] A3) the organic solvent(s) present in the nail polish base are chosen in the group consisting of room temperature liquid ketones such as methyl ethyl ketone, methyl isobutyl ketone, diisobutyl ketone, isophorone, cyclohexanone or acetone, room temperature liquid alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, or cyclohexanol, room temperature liquid glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, or pentylene glycol, glycerol, carboxylic esters such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, butyl acetate or isopentyl acetate.

[0030] According to a particular aspect of the present invention, said lipid extract of the aerial parts of the halophyte plant Crithmum maritimum present in the composition as defined above is directly obtained by the process comprising the following successive steps: a. A step a) of maceration in a mixture of triglycerides of fatty acids whose acyl chains comprise eight to ten carbon atoms, of aerial parts of the halophyte plant Crithmum maritimum previously dried and ground, to obtain a lipid suspension of the aerial parts of the halophyte plant Crithmum maritimum; b. A step b) of decanting said lipid suspension of the aerial parts of the halophyte plant Crithmum maritimum obtained at the end of step a), in order to remove the insoluble residual biomass; c. A first step c) of lenticular filtration, on a sieve of average diameter equal to three micrometers of said lipid suspension decanted from the aerial parts of the halophyte plant Crithmum maritimum obtained at the end of step b), to remove the residual biomass particles having an average diameter greater than three micrometers and to obtain a first lipid filtrate; d. A second step d) of lenticular filtration, on a sieve of average diameter equal to two hundred nanometers of the said first filtrate obtained at the end of step c), to remove the residual biomass particles having an average diameter greater than two hundred nanometers and to obtain said lipid extract of the aerial parts of the halophyte plant Crithmum maritimum.

[0031] According to another particular aspect of the composition as defined above, the mass ratio: mass of said mixture of fatty acid triglycerides comprising eight to ten carbon atoms, to mass of aerial parts of the halophyte plant Crithmum maritimum, implemented in step a), is greater than or equal to 90 / 10 and less than or equal to 98 / 2, and is preferably about 95 / 5.

[0032] According to another particular aspect of the present invention, step a) of maceration is carried out for a period greater than or equal to twelve hours and less than or equal to twenty-four hours and at a temperature greater than or equal to 15°C and less than or equal to 25°C.

[0033] According to a more particular aspect of the present invention, said nail polish base constituting the composition as defined above comprises, by mass, from 10% to 35% a mixture of film-forming agents comprising, by mass, 100% of its: - 65% to 75% by mass of nitrocellulose (CAS No. = 9004-70-0), - 25% to 35% by mass of copolymer (adipic acid / neopentyl glycol / mellitic acid anhydride) (CAS No. = 28407-73-0), and - Optionally up to 0.35% by mass of polyvinyl butyral (CAS No. = 63148-65-2).

[0034] According to another more particular aspect of the present invention, said nail polish base constituting the composition as defined above comprises, by mass, 5% to 10% of tributyl acetyl citrate (CAS No. 77-90-7) or 5% to 10% of mass of a mixture of plasticizing agents comprising, by mass, 100% of its: - From 98% to 99.9% by mass of tributyl acetyl citrate and - From 0.1% to 2% by mass of trimethylpentanediyl bibenzoate (CAS No. = 68052-23-3).

[0035] According to another more particular aspect of the present invention, said nail polish base constituting the composition as defined above comprises, by mass, 60% to 80% of a solvent mixture comprising, by mass, 100% of its composition: - From 5% to 15% mass of isopropanol (CAS No. = 67-63-0); - From 10% to 75% by mass of butyl acetate (CAS No. 123-86-4), and - From 10% to 75% mass of ethyl acetate (CAS No. = 141-78-6).

[0036] According to a particular aspect of the present invention, said nail polish base constituting the composition as defined above comprises, by mass, 100% of: - 25% to 45% by mass of ethyl acetate (CAS No. = 141-78-6), - 15% to 25% by mass of butyl acetate (CAS No. = 123-86-4), - 5% to 10% mass of copolymer (adipic acid / neopentyl / glycol / trimellitic anhydride) (CAS No. = 28407-73-0), - 10% to 20% by mass of nitrocellulose (CAS No. = 9004-70-0), - 5% to 10% by mass of tributyl acetyl citrate (CAS No. = 77-90-7), - 5% to 10% mass of isopropanol (CAS No. = 67-63-0), - From 0.1% to 1% by mass of ethocrylene (CAS No. = 5232-99-5), - Optionally up to 0.1% by mass of polyvinyl butyral (CAS No. = 63148-65-2),

[0037] The invention also relates to the use, by topical administration, of a lipid extract of the aerial parts of the halophyte plant Crithmum maritimum, to reduce the unsightly effects induced by the exposome on the nails of a human being.

[0038] In the context of the present invention, the word exposome refers to the set of environmental stresses capable of inducing oxidation of nail keratins.

[0039] Examples of environmental stress include irradiation by ultraviolet rays (UVA and / or UVB), pollution by fine particles, ozone, polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons, chemical agents or cigarette smoke.

[0040] According to a particular aspect of the invention, these are intended for use as defined above, to reduce the unsightly effects induced by solar radiation, more particularly by irradiation by ultraviolet A (UVA) rays, of human nails.

[0041] The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for reducing the unsightly effects induced by the exposome on the nails of a human being, comprising a step of applying to said nails the composition as defined above, and more particularly a non-therapeutic method for reducing the unsightly effects induced by solar radiation, more particularly by irradiation by ultraviolet A (UVA) rays, on the nails of a human being.

[0042] The invention finally relates to a composition as defined above, for its use in reducing damage caused by solar radiation, and more particularly by irradiation by ultraviolet A (UVA) rays, to the keratin structure of human nails. Example of an implementation of the invention

[0043] Effect of Crithmum maritimum extract incorporated into nail polish base on ex vivo UVA-induced oxidation (carbonylation) of keratins.

[0044] A lipid extract of the aerial parts of the halophyte plant Crithmum maritimum, wherein the constituent solvent of said lipid extract is an equimass mixture of glyceryl trioctanoate and glyceryl tridecanoate, is mixed with a nail lacquer base consisting of the following components: - 25% to 45% by mass of ethyl acetate (CAS No. = 141-78-6), - 15% to 25% by mass of butyl acetate (CAS No. = 123-86-4), - 10% to 20% by mass of nitrocellulose (CAS No. = 9004-70-0), - 5% to 10% by mass of tributyl acetyl citrate (CAS No. = 77-90-7), - 5% to 10% by mass of copolymer (adipic acid / neopentyl / glycol / trimellitic anhydride) (CAS No. = 28407-73-0), - 5% to 10% mass of isopropanol (CAS No. = 67-63-0), - From 0.1% to 1% by mass of ethocrylene (CAS No. = 5232-99-5), - Up to 0.1% by mass of polyvinyl butyral (CAS No. = 63148-65-2), - Up to 0.1% by mass of trimethyl pentanediyl bibenzoate (CAS No. = 68052-23-3), and - Violet dye (CI 60725) (CAS No. = 81-48-1).

[0045] Two nail polishes are thus prepared: - product A comprising said lipid extract of the aerial parts of the halophyte plant crithmum maritimum in a mass proportion equal to 0.5% by mass of said nail polish base; - product B comprising said lipid extract of the aerial parts of the halophyte plant crithmum maritimum in a mass proportion equal to 1.0% by mass of said nail polish base;

[0046] Principle of the evaluation: Evaluation of the effects of UVA exposure on cut nails

[0047] Protocol: On day 0, the products are applied to trimmed nails and left in contact until dry. A second application of the products is then performed, and the products are left in contact with the nails for five days. On day 5, the products are removed from the nails using a mild nail polish remover (commercial product), and the trimmed nails are then transferred to a Petri dish to dry. They are then exposed (or not) to UV-A irradiation in an OxiProteomics™ chamber (6.8 J / cm², 2.365 nm, LED source). The "Untreated Control" and "Stressed Control" groups are also treated with the mild nail polish remover solution. After the treatments, the nails are prepared, sampled, and stored at -80°C until the OxiProteome Score™ analysis is performed.

[0048] OxiProteome Score™ Analysis: Clipped nails are subjected to protein extraction in aqueous buffer using the proprietary OxiProteomics™ method, optimized for nail proteins. Total protein quantification is performed using the Bradford method. The extracted proteins are distributed in equal amounts for each sample for subsequent analysis. Oxidized (carbonylated) proteins are labeled with a specific fluorescent probe and then separated by high-resolution electrophoresis (SDS-PAGE - 4%-20%). After migration, the total proteins are stained on gel with the fluorescent reagent SyproRuby™ (Life Technologies, USA). Digital image acquisition of carbonylated and total proteins was performed using the iBright system (Thermofisher). Image processing and densitometric analysis were performed using ImageJ software.Carbonyl protein values ​​are obtained by normalizing the specific fluorescence signal to the total protein content. The carbonyl score for a sample X is equal to the ratio of the fluorescence value of the oxidized proteins in the sample to the fluorescence value of the total proteins in the same sample. A comparison of the carbonyl scores obtained and a statistical analysis using Student's t-test (with p<0.05 as the limit of significance) are carried out to judge the significance of the results obtained.

[0049] Results obtained: The results obtained are recorded in Table 1 below: [Tables 1] Carbonyl Score Percentage Variation per Ratio: Samples J, Mean Standard Deviation At Control 1 At Control 2 Untreated Samples Not Exposed to UVA (Control 1) 0.699 0.047 - - Untreated Samples Exposed to UVA 1.132 0.032 +61.8% - Samples Treated with Nail Polish Base Only and Exposed to UVA (Control 2) 0.958 0.021 +37.0% - Samples Treated with Product A and Exposed to UVA 0.536 0.011 - -44.0% Samples treated with product B and exposed to UVA: 0.541 0.046 - -43.5%

[0050] These results highlight the following: - UVA irradiation of untreated nail samples increases the carbonyl score by 61.8% compared to unirradiated nail samples; UVA irradiation therefore has a detrimental oxidative effect on the keratins of the nails; - Treating nails with the base coat alone reduces the impact of UVA irradiation, but does not prevent keratin oxidation, with the carbonyl score still being much higher than the untreated control (+37.0%); - Treating nails with one of products A or B completely inhibits the effect of irradiation by reducing the carbonyl score (-44%, -43.5%).

[0051] The presence of the lipid extract of the aerial parts of the halophyte plant Crithmum maritimum in the nail polish in the proportions claimed, therefore induces a technical advantage which is not obviously deducible from the prior art.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition consisting of: A. A nail polish base and B. A lipid extract of the aerial parts of the halophyte plant Crithmum maritimum in a mass proportion of between 0.1% by mass and 2% by mass of said nail polish base and wherein the constituent solvent of said lipid extract is a mixture of fatty acid triglycerides comprising eight to ten carbon atoms.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein said lipid extract of the aerial parts of the halophyte plant Crithmum maritimum is present therein in a mass proportion of between 0.5% by mass and 1% by mass of said nail polish base.

3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2, wherein the constituent solvent of said lipid extract of the aerial parts of the halophyte plant Crithmum maritimum, is a mixture of glyceryl tridecanoate and glyceryl trioctanoate.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein said nail polish base comprises for 100% by mass: A1) 10% to 35% by mass of a film-forming agent or a mixture of film-forming agents, A2) 5% to 15% by mass of a plasticizing agent or a mixture of plasticizing agents, and A3) 50% to 80% by mass of an organic solvent or a mixture of organic solvents.

5. Composition according to claim 4, wherein said nail polish base further comprises for 100% of its mass: A1) From 0.1% to 2% by mass of an auxiliary agent or a mixture of auxiliary agents selected from colorants and compounds absorbing ultraviolet rays.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein said lipid extract of the aerial parts of the halophyte plant Crithmum maritimum is directly obtained by the process comprising the following successive steps: a. A step a) of maceration in a mixture of triglycerides of fatty acids whose acyl chains comprise eight to ten carbon atoms, of aerial parts of the halophyte plant Crithmum maritimum previously dried and ground, to obtain a lipid suspension of the aerial parts of the halophyte plant Crithmum maritimum; b. A step b) of decanting said lipid suspension of the aerial parts of the halophyte plant Crithmum mariti mum obtained at the end of step a), in order to remove the insoluble residual biomass; c. A first step c) of lenticular filtration, on a sieve of average diameter equal to three micrometers of said lipid suspension decanted from the aerial parts of the halophyte plant Crithmum maritimum obtained at the end of step b), to remove the residual biomass particles having an average diameter greater than three micrometers and to obtain a first lipid filtrate; d. A second step d) of lenticular filtration, on a sieve of average diameter equal to two hundred nanometers of the said first filtrate obtained at the end of step c), to remove the residual biomass particles having an average diameter greater than two hundred nanometers and to obtain said lipid extract of the aerial parts of the halophyte plant Crit hmum maritimum.

7. Composition according to claim 6, wherein the mass ratio: mass of said mixture of fatty acid triglycerides comprising eight to ten carbon atoms, to mass of aerial parts of the halophyte plant Crithmum maritimum, carried out in step a), is greater than or equal to 90 / 10 and less than or equal to 98 / 2, and is preferably about 95 / 5.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 4 to 7, wherein said nail polish base comprises, by mass, 10% to 35% of a mixture of film-forming agents comprising, by mass: - 65% to 75% by mass of nitrocellulose (CAS No. = 9004-70-0), - 25% to 35% by mass of a copolymer of adipic acid, neopentyl glycol and mellitic acid anhydride (CAS No. = 28407-73-0), and - Optionally up to 0.35% by mass of polyvinyl butyral (CAS No. = 63148-65-2).

9. Composition according to any one of claims 4 to 8, wherein said nail polish base comprises, by mass, 5% to 10% of tributyl acetyl citrate (CAS No. 77-90-7) or 5% to 10% of a mixture of plasticizing agents comprising, by mass, 100% of: - 98% to 99.9% of tributyl acetyl citrate and - 0.1% to 2% of trimethylpentanediyl bibenzoate (CAS No. 68052-23-3).

10. Composition according to any one of claims 4 to 9, wherein said nail polish base comprises, by mass, 60% to 80% of a solvent mixture comprising, by mass, 100% of: - 5% to 15% of isopropanol (CAS No. 67-63-0) - 10% to 75% of butyl acetate (CAS No. 123-86-4), and - 10% to 75% of ethyl acetate (CAS No. 141-78-6).

11. Composition according to any one of claims 4 to 10, wherein said nail polish base comprises, by mass, 100% of: - 25% to 45% by mass of ethyl acetate (CAS No. = 141-78-6), - 15% to 25% by mass of butyl acetate (CAS No. = 123-86-4), - 10% to 20% by mass of nitrocellulose (CAS No. = 9004-70-0), - 5% to 10% by mass of tributyl acetyl citrate (CAS No. = 77-90-7), - 5% to 10% by mass of copolymer (adipic acid / neopentyl / glycol / trimellitic anhydride) (CAS No. = 2840 7-73-7), - 5% to 10% by mass of isopropanol (CAS No. = 67-63-0) - 0.1% to 1% by mass of ethocrylene (CAS No. = 5232-99-5), - Optionally up to 0.1% by mass of polyvinyl butyral (CAS No. = 63148-65-2), - Optionally up to 0.1% by mass of trimethyl pentanediyl bibenzoate (CAS No. = 68052-23-3), and - Optionally of a dye.

12. Use by topical administration of a lipid extract of the aerial parts of the halophyte plant Crithmum maritimum, to reduce the unsightly effects induced by the exposome on the nails of a human being.

13. Use according to claim 12, to reduce the unsightly effects induced by solar radiation, more particularly by irradiation by ultraviolet A (UVA) rays, on the nails of a human being.

14. A non-therapeutic method for reducing the unsightly effects induced by the exposome on the nails of a human being, comprising a step of applying to said nails the composition, as defined in any one of claims 1 to 11.

15. Non-therapeutic method according to claim 14, for reducing the unsightly effects induced by solar radiation, more particularly by irradiation by ultraviolet A (UVA) rays of the nails of a human being.

16. Composition, according to any one of claims 1 to 11, for its use in reducing damage caused by solar radiation, and more particularly by irradiation by ultraviolet A (UVA) rays, to the keratin structure of human nails.