Composition for cleaning and / or caring for keratinous material
A composition with alpha-hydroxy acid, beta-hydroxy acid, selenium sulfide, and nitrogen compounds effectively addresses dandruff by enhancing anti-dandruff efficacy and improving texture and softness on keratinous materials.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2024004634
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2024-03-21
- Filing Date
- 2024-05-03
- Publication Date
- 2025-09-26
- Estimated Expiration
- 2034-05-03
AI Technical Summary
Cosmetic products struggle to rapidly inhibit microorganisms and provide desirable revitalizing effects such as smooth texture and softness, particularly during the wet phase, for keratinous materials like hair and scalp, while addressing dandruff conditions.
A composition comprising alpha-hydroxy acid, beta-hydroxy acid, selenium sulfide, and a nitrogen compound, along with specific additives, applied to keratinous materials and rinsed after massaging, to enhance anti-dandruff efficacy and improve texture and softness.
The composition provides improved anti-dandruff efficacy and enhanced sensations of smooth texture and softness during the wet phase, addressing dandruff conditions effectively.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: composition for cleaning and / or caring for keratinous material Technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition for cleaning and / or caring for keratinous material, preferably hair and scalp. The present invention also relates to a process for cleaning and / or caring for keratinous material, preferably hair and scalp. STATE OF THE ART
[0002] The scalp is an epidermis that undergoes continuous renewal, like the rest of the skin tissue, and is rich in sebaceous glands. Normally, the scalp is renewed by an imperceptible and invisible elimination of superficial skin cells. However, excessive renewal of cells in the horny layer of the scalp, for various reasons, can lead to the formation of large, thick patches of cells visible to the naked eye, known as "dandruff".
[0003] Dandruff conditions are chronic, frequent and recurring conditions that are socially disabling due to their manifestly unsightly nature. These dandruff conditions of the scalp result in an alteration of the barrier function of the epidermis. In addition, these conditions can give rise to sensations of itching or pruritus, leading to scratching behavior that amplifies the phenomenon of the appearance of dandruff.
[0004] Many cosmetic products for cleaning and / or caring for keratinous material have been developed to comprise at least one anti-dandruff agent in order to solve the above-mentioned problems. However, it is often difficult for cosmetic products comprising an anti-dandruff agent to rapidly or sufficiently inhibit microorganisms, and / or to provide desirable revitalizing effects, for example a feeling of smooth texture and / or softness, particularly during the wet phase.
[0005] There is therefore a need to develop a composition for cleaning and / or caring for keratinous material which can ensure sufficient inhibition of microorganisms and thus better anti-dandruff efficacy, while providing an improved sensation of smooth texture and / or softness on keratinous materials, in particular during the wet phase. Summary of the invention
[0006] The inventors have discovered that such a need can be satisfied by the composition according to the present invention.
[0007] According to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a composition, preferably for cleaning and / or caring for keratinous material, comprising: a. at least one alpha-hydroxy acid; b. at least one beta-hydroxy acid and / or derivatives thereof; c. at least one selenium sulfide; and d. 1% by weight to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one nitrogen compound corresponding to the following formula (III):
[0008] in which Rb R2, R3, R4 and R5, independently of each other, denote a radical chosen from:
[0009] - a hydrogen atom,
[0010] - a carboxyl group, and
[0011] - a linear C1-C6 or branched C3-C6 alkyl group, saturated or unsaturated, which is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms selected from O, S and N, and / or optionally substituted with one or more groups selected from amino, imino, amidino, guanidino, hydroxyl, sulfhydryl, carboxyl, amido, C1-C6 perfluoroalkyl, C1-C6 alkoxy, sulfate, phosphate, aryl (preferably phenyl), and heterocyclyl which is preferably selected from pyrimidyl, piperidyl, morpholinyl, pyranyl, furyl, piperazinyl, pyridyl, imidazolyl, and indolyl, and
[0012] wherein R 1 and R 4 optionally form a ring which contains 5 or 6 atoms selected from carbon and nitrogen.
[0013] According to a second aspect, the present invention relates to a process for cleaning and / or caring for keratinous material, preferably hair and scalp, comprising the following steps: a. applying the composition as described above to a wet keratinous material; b. massaging the keratinous material for 2 seconds to 120 seconds; and c. rinsing the keratinous material with water.
[0014] The inventors have discovered that after application of the composition to keratinous material, preferably hair and scalp, the composition can provide improved anti-dandruff efficacy and furthermore improved sensations of smooth texture and softness of the keratinous material, particularly during the wet phase.
[0015] Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become even more apparent from the detailed description and examples which follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0016] In the following and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in this range, in particular in the expressions "between...and..." and "ranging from... to...".
[0017] The articles "a" and "an," as used herein, mean one or more when applied to any feature in embodiments of the present invention described in the patent specification and claims. The use of "a" and "an" does not limit the meaning to a single feature, unless such a limitation is specifically stated. Furthermore, the expression "at least one" as used in this specification is equivalent to the expression "one or more."
[0018] Throughout this application, the term "comprising" is to be interpreted as encompassing all of the specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no material features, or even features other than the specifically mentioned features, are present (such as "consisting essentially of" or "consisting of"). In the case of "consisting essentially of," any additional composition, material, and / or component that materially affects the fundamental and novel characteristics is excluded from such an embodiment, but any composition, material, and / or component that does not materially affect the fundamental and novel characteristics may be included in the embodiment.
[0019] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing an amount of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term "about". Accordingly, unless otherwise specified, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values which may be modified depending on the desired performance obtained as required. The term "about" denoting a certain value is intended to denote a range within ± 5% of the value, for example: within ± 3%, ± 2%, ± 1% and ± 0.5% of the value.
[0020] As used herein, the expression "keratinous material(s)" means at least one material selected from hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, skin, nails, mucous membranes and scalp, and preferably hair and scalp.
[0021] For the purposes of the present invention, and unless otherwise indicated:
[0022] - an “alkyl” radical denotes a linear or branched saturated radical containing, for example example, from 1 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0023] - an “alkenyl” radical designates a hydrocarbon group formed when an atom hydrogen is removed from an alkene group.
[0024] - an “alkoxy” radical designates an alkyl linked to the parent molecule by an atom of oxygen (i.e., “-O-alkyl”), where “alkyl” is as defined above.
[0025] - a “heterocyclyl” radical designates a monovalent group derived from a chosen cycle among monocyclic, bicyclic or polycyclic rings of 3 to 8 members, preferably of 4 to 6 members, saturated, partially unsaturated or totally unsaturated comprising at least one carbon atom in addition to 1, 2, 3 or 4 heteroatoms chosen from oxygen, sulfur and nitrogen.
[0026] - an “aryl” radical denotes a monovalent hydrocarbon radical derived from a monocyclic, fused bicyclic or polycyclic ring system (in which at least one ring contains a fully conjugated ir electron system) having known aromatic characteristics. Alpha-hydroxy acid
[0027] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one alpha-hydroxy acid.
[0028] By the term "alpha-hydroxy acid" is meant, according to the present invention, a carboxylic acid having at least one hydroxyl functional group occupying an alpha position on said acid (carbon adjacent to a carboxylic acid functional group).
[0029] The alpha-hydroxy acid present in the composition, according to the present invention, includes, but is not limited to, glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, methyllactic acid, glucuronic acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetracosanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid, mandelic acid, phenyllactic acid, gluconic acid, galacturonic acid, ribonic acid, tartronic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, fumaric acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0030] Preferably, the alpha-hydroxy acid is a lower acid having 2 to 12 carbon atoms, more preferably 2 to 8 carbon atoms, even more preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms.
[0031] Suitable alpha-hydroxy acids include glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, gluconic acid, and combinations thereof.
[0032] Preferably, the alpha-hydroxy acid is a monocarboxylic acid.
[0033] More preferably, the alpha-hydroxy acid is a lower monocarboxylic acid having 2 to 8 carbon atoms, even more preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as lactic acid.
[0034] The most preferred alpha-hydroxy acid is lactic acid, for example, that sold under the trade name L(4)-LACTIC ACID 90% HEAT STABLE PERSONAL CARE by the company JUNGBUNZLAUER, and that sold under the trade name L-LACTIC ACID (90%) (CRG) by the company MUSASHINO CHEMICAL LABORATORY.
[0035] Advantageously, the alpha-hydroxy acid is in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5% by weight to 8% by weight, and most preferably from 1% by weight to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Beta-hydroxy acid and / or derivatives thereof
[0036] According to the present invention, the composition comprises at least one beta-hydroxy acid and / or derivatives thereof.
[0037] By the term "beta-hydroxy acid" is meant, according to the present invention, a carboxylic acid having a hydroxyl functional group and a carboxylic functional group separated by two carbon atoms.
[0038] Preferably, the "derivative" in the expression "beta-hydroxy acid and / or derivatives thereof" means that the hydroxyl functional group of the beta-hydroxy acid, rather than the carboxylic functional group, is modified and preferably acylated.
[0039] Preferably, the beta-hydroxy acid and / or derivatives thereof are chosen from salicylic acid, its derivatives acylated on the hydroxyl group, and its derivative of the following formula (I):
[0040] in which, R represents a linear, branched or cyclic saturated aliphatic group or an unsaturated aliphatic group containing one or a certain number of double bonds, which may or may not be conjugated, these groups containing from 2 to 22, preferably from 3 to 11 carbon atoms and being optionally substituted with at least one substituent chosen from (a) halogen atoms, (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified by an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or (d) a carboxyl functional group which is free or esterified by a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
[0041] R' represents a hydroxyl group or an ester functional group of the following formula (II): --O--G — R1(H) O
[0042] in which Ri is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched aliphatic group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 15 carbon atoms.
[0043] More preferably, the beta-hydroxy acid and / or derivatives thereof are those having a salicylic moiety, including salicylic acid, acetylsalicylic acid, capryloylsalicylic acid, 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-propanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-hexadecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-oleoylsalicylic acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0044] Non-limiting examples of other useful beta-hydroxy acids and / or derivatives thereof include 5-n-octylsalicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, 4-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, 5-tert-octylsalicylic acid, 3-tert-butyl-5-methylsalicylic acid, 3-tert-butyl-6-methylsalicylic acid, 3,5-diisopropylsalicylic acid, 5-butoxysalicylic acid, 5-octyloxysalicylic acid, 5-benzoylsalicylic acid, beta-hydroxypropionic acid, beta-hydroxybutyric acid, beta-hydroxy [3-methylbutyric acid, carnitine, lipohydroxy acid, 3-hydroxyvaleric acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0045] According to the present invention, the beta-hydroxy acid and / or derivatives thereof are in particular preferably chosen from salicylic acid, acetylsalicylic acid, capryloylsalicylic acid, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably salicylic acid.
[0046] A particularly preferable beta-hydroxy acid and / or derivatives thereof are salicylic acid, for example that sold under the trade name SALICYLIC ACID USP by the company CELLMARK, and that sold under the trade name AMIPRESERVE by the company ALBAN MULLER (CRODA).
[0047] Advantageously, the beta-hydroxy acid and / or the derivatives thereof are in an amount ranging from 0.05% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 8% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% by weight to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Selenium sulfide
[0048] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one selenium sulfide (or selenium disulfide).
[0049] Selenium sulfide is a basic commercial item. Selenium sulfide is generally considered to be a compound containing one mole of selenium and two moles of sulfur. However, it can take the form of a ring structure, SexSy , in which x + y = 8. Since sulfur and selenium readily form rings and chains, selenium sulfide is not a pure chemical compound, but a mixture, for example, a mixture of eight-membered ring compounds where the overall Se:S ratio is 1:2 (often abbreviated as SeS2).
[0050] Selenium sulfide is used to treat dandruff and certain scalp infections (seborrheic dermatitis). It reduces itching, irritation, and redness of the scalp.
[0051] According to the present invention, selenium sulfide is added as a raw material in the form of a powder whose particles generally have a particle size (D90) of less than 200 qm, preferably less than 100 qm, preferably less than 150 qm, preferably less than 100 pm, preferably less than 50 pm, and more preferably less than 25 pm. For example, selenium sulfide, as a raw material, may have a particle size (D90) ranging from 1 pm to 24 pm, preferably from 3 pm to 15 pm, and more preferably from 5 pm to 10 pm, for example 24 pm, 20 pm, 18 pm, 15 pm, 10 pm, 8 pm, 7 pm, 5 pm, 3 pm, 2 pm or 1 pm. For the purposes of the present invention, the particle size (D90) corresponds to the particle size defined such that 90% by volume of the particles have a size smaller than the particle size (D90).Particle size can be measured by a forward laser light scattering device (e.g., a Malvem 3600 instrument).
[0052] A particularly preferable example of selenium sulfide is that sold under the trade name SELENIUM SULPHIDE EP / USP MICRONIZED by the company ESKAY FINE CHEMICALS.
[0053] Advantageously, the selenium sulfide is present in an amount ranging from 0.001% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% by weight to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% by weight to 3% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.05% by weight to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Nitrogen compound
[0054] The composition according to the present invention comprises 1% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one nitrogenous compound corresponding to the following formula (III): (III) Ri
[0055]
[0056]
[0057]
[0058]
[0059]
[0060]
[0061]
[0062]
[0063]
[0064]
[0065]
[0066] in which Rb R2, R3, R4 and R5, independently of each other, denote a radical chosen from: - a hydrogen atom, - a carboxyl group, and - a linear C1-C6 or branched C3-C6 alkyl group, saturated or unsaturated, which is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms selected from O, S and N, and / or optionally substituted with one or more groups selected from amino, imino, amidino, guanidino, hydroxyl, sulfhydryl, carboxyl, amido, perfluoroC1-C6 alkyl, C1-C6 alkoxy, sulfate, phosphate, aryl, and heterocyclyl, and in which R1 and R4 optionally form a ring which contains 5 or 6 atoms selected from carbon and nitrogen. Preferably, RB R2, R3, R4 and R5, independently of each other, denote a radical chosen from: - a hydrogen atom, - a carboxyl group, and - a linear C1-C6 or branched C3-C6 alkyl group, saturated or unsaturated, which is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms selected from O, S and N, and / or optionally substituted with one or more groups selected from amino, imino, amidino, guanidino, hydroxyl, sulfhydryl, carboxyl, amido, C1-C6 alkoxy, phenyl, and heterocyclyl selected from pyrimidyl, piperidyl, morpholinyl, pyranyl, furyl, piperazinyl, pyridyl, imidazolyl, and indolyl, and in which R1 and R4 optionally form a ring which contains 5 or 6 atoms selected from carbon or nitrogen. According to the present invention, the nitrogen compound may have a molecular weight of less than 500, preferably less than 400, and more preferably less than 250. Non-limiting examples of the nitrogen compound include, but are not limited to, arginine, including L-arginine, trolamine, diethanolamine, L-alanine, L-asparagine, L-aspartate, L-cysteine, L-glutamate, L-glutamine, L-glycine, L-histidine, L-isoleucine, L-leucine, L-lysine, L-methionine, L-phenylalanine, L-proline, L-serine, L-threonine, L-tryptophan, L-tyrosine, L-valine, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane, ethanolamine, diethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N-dimethylaminoethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, 3-isopropoxypropylamine, 3-methoxypropylamine (3-MPA), 3-ethoxypropylamine, 3-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-p ropylamine, 2-(2-aminoethoxy)ethanol (2-2AEE), 3-butoxypropylamine (3-BPA) and monoethanolamine (MEA), and mixtures thereof.
[0067] Preferably, the nitrogen compound is selected from the group consisting of L-arginine, trolamine, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane, ethanolamine, diethanolamine, and mixtures thereof, more preferably L-arginine.
[0068] Preferably, the composition comprises 1% by weight to 10% by weight of the nitrogen compound selected from the group consisting of L-arginine, trolamine, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane, ethanolamine, diethanolamine, and mixtures thereof, more preferably L-arginine.
[0069] One of the particularly preferable nitrogen compounds is L-arginine sold under the trade name L ARGININE by the company KYOWA HAKKO.
[0070] The nitrogen compound is present in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 1.2% by weight to 8% by weight, more preferably from 1.5% by weight to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 1.8% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Cationic polymer
[0071] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one cationic polymer.
[0072] Preferably, said cationic polymer is chosen from polyquaterniums, cationic guar gum derivatives, and mixtures thereof.
[0073] In some cases, the cationic polymer may comprise monomeric units derived from a monomer substituted with an amine and / or a quaternary ammonium and / or compatible spacer monomers.
[0074] A suitable cationic polymer includes, for example: copolymers of 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidine and 1-vinyl-3-methylimidazolium salt (e.g., the chloride salt) (referred to as Polyquaternium-16) such as those commercially available from BASF under the trade name LUVIQUAT (e.g., LUVIQUAT FC 370); copolymers of 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidine and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate (referred to as Polyquaternium-11) such as those commercially available from Gar Corporation (Wayne, NJ, USA) under the trade name GAFQUAT (e.g., GAFQUAT 755N); and a cationic polymer containing a quaternary diallylammonium including, for example, a homopolymer of dimethyldiallyammonium chloride and the copolymers acrylamide and dimethyldiallyammonium chloride (called Polyquaternium-6 and Poly quaternium-7).
[0075] Un polymère cationique approprié peut inclure d’autres polyquatemiums, tels que polyquaternium-1, polyquaternium-2, polyquatemium-3, polyquatemium-4, polyquaternium-5, polyquaternium-8, polyquaternium-9, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-12, polyquaternium-13, polyquaternium-14, polyquaternium-15, polyquaternium-17, polyquaternium-18, polyquaternium-19, polyquaternium-20, polyquaternium-21, polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-23, polyquaternium-24, polyquaternium-25, polyquaternium-26, polyquaternium-27, polyquaternium-28, polyquaternium-29, polyquaternium-30, polyquaternium-40, polyquaternium-41, polyquaternium-42, polyquaternium-43, polyquaternium-44, polyquaternium-45, polyquaternium-46, polyquaternium-47, polyquaternium-48, polyquaternium-49, polyquaternium-50, polyquaternium-51, polyquaternium-52, polyquaternium-53, polyquaternium-54, polyquatemium-55, polyquatemium-56, polyquatemium-57, polyquaternium-58, polyquaternium-59, polyquaternium-60, polyquaternium-61,polyquaternium-62, polyquaternium-63, polyquaternium-64, polyquaternium-65, polyquaternium-66, polyquaternium-67, and combinations thereof.
[0076] The preferable cationic guar gum derivative may be guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, and preferably hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.
[0077] According to the present invention, the cationic polymer is preferably chosen from polyquaterniums, cationic guar gum derivatives and mixtures thereof, more preferably chosen from cationic guar gum derivatives, even more preferably is guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, and most preferably is hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.
[0078] Advantageously, the cationic polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01% by weight to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% by weight to 2% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Anionic surfactant
[0079] According to the present invention, the composition may comprise at least one anionic surfactant.
[0080] In the present description, a species is said to be “anionic” when it carries at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized in the form of a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example, the medium or the pH).
[0081] Preferably, the anionic surfactant is chosen from alkyl ether sulfates.
[0082] In some cases, the alkyl ether sulfates include those having the following formula (IV):
[0083] in which, R represents a hydrogen or an alkyl chain having 6 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably an alkyl chain having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, and more preferably an alkyl chain having 12 to 18 carbon atoms, said alkyl chain being saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, substituted or unsubstituted;
[0084] M represents a solubilizing cation, such as alkali metal ions, for example sodium or potassium, ammonium or substituted ammonium ions, or alkanolammonium ions, for example monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium ions; and
[0085] n is an integer from 0 to 3, preferably between 1 and 3, more preferably between 2 and 3.
[0086] Preferably, the anionic surfactant is sodium laureth sulfate, for example, that sold under the trade name EMAL 170S by the company KAO, or under the trade name KOPACOL N701 S RENU ULTRA / MB MASPHATE ES70 IM LD RSPO MB by the company KENSING PT MUSIM MAS.
[0087] Advantageously, the anionic surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% by weight to 25% by weight, and more preferably from 10% by weight to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Fatty amine
[0088] According to the present invention, the composition may comprise at least one fatty amine as a conditioning agent. Two or more fatty amines may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of fatty amine or a combination of different types of fatty amines may be used.
[0089] By the term "fatty amines" is meant primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, which are optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated, or the salts thereof. The fatty amines generally comprise at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain. Preferably, the fatty amines according to the present invention are not quaternized. Preferably, the fatty amines according to the present invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.
[0090] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one fatty amine comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain.
[0091] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one fatty amine chosen from tertiary fatty amines.
[0092] More preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more tertiary fatty amines chosen from amidoamines.
[0093] Amidoamines are a class of chemical compounds formed from fatty acids and diamines. Non-limiting examples of amidoamines include those of the following formula (V):
[0094] RCONHR'N(R")2(V)
[0095] in which R represents a hydrocarbon radical containing at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and in particular a C6-C30, preferably C8-C24, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical, preferably a C6-C30, preferably C8-C24, linear or branched alkyl radical, or a C6-C30, preferably C8-C24, linear or branched alkenyl radical; and R' represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted; and the R", which may be the same or different, represent a hydrogen or a hydrocarbon radical containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.In addition, R" may be linear or branched, acyclic or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted. Preferably, R" is an acyclic, linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group. More preferably, R" is hydrogen or a methyl group.
[0096] Non-limiting examples of amidoamines include, but are not limited to, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, sojamidopropyl dimethylamine, wheat germamidopropyl dimethylamine, sunflowerseedamidopropyl dimethylamine, almondamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, babassuamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, stearamidopropyl diethylamine, palmitamidopropyl diethylamine, palmitamidoethyl diethylamine, palmitamidoethyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl diethylamine, behenamidoethyl diethylamine, behenamidoethyl dimethylamine, arachidamidopropyl dimethylamine, arachidamidopropyl diethylamine, arachidamidoethyl diethylamine, arachidamidoethyl dimethylamine, diethylaminoethylstearamide, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the fatty amine is brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine.
[0097] Other suitable fatty amines include, but are not limited to, octylamine, decylamine, dodecylamine, stearylamine, stearyldimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
[0098] A particularly preferable example of brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine is that sold under the trade name PROCONDITION 2 by INOLEX CHEMICAL COMPANY.
[0099] Advantageously, the fatty acid is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01% by weight to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% by weight to 2% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Cellulose
[0100] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one cellulose, different from the cationic polymer mentioned above.
[0101] As used herein, the term "cellulose" is intended to refer to any polysaccharide compound having in its structure sequences of glucose residues linked together via beta-1,4 linkages. Cellulose may be unsubstituted or substituted. Further, cellulose may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric, or nonionic.
[0102] Preferably, the cellulose used according to the invention is chosen from unsubstituted celluloses, including those in microcrystalline form; cellulose esters; cellulose ethers; cellulose ester ethers; and mixtures thereof.
[0103] Among the cellulose esters are inorganic cellulose esters (nitrates, sulfates, cellulose phosphates, etc.), organic cellulose esters (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetate butyrates, acetate propionates and acetate trimellitates, etc.) and mixed organic / inorganic cellulose esters, such as cellulose acetate butyrate sulfates and cellulose acetate propionate sulfates.
[0104] Cellulose ethers include nonionic cellulose ethers, anionic cellulose ethers, and cationic cellulose ethers.
[0105] Examples of nonionic cellulose ethers include (C1-C4 alkyl)celluloses, such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (e.g., Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical); (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4 alkyl)celluloses, such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (e.g., Natrosol 250 HHR from Ashland) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (e.g., Klucel EF from Aqualon); (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4 alkyl)(C1-C4 alkyl)celluloses, such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses (e.g., Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical), hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses (e.g., Bermocoll 20 E 481 FQ from Akzo Nobel) and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.
[0106] Among the anionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of (poly)carboxy(C1-C4 alkyl)celluloses and the salts thereof. By way of example, mention may be made of carboxymethylcelluloses (for example, Blanose 7M from the company Aqualon) and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, and the sodium salts thereof.
[0107] Among the cationic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described in particular in US patent 4,131,576, such as (poly)hydroxy(Cr-C4 alkyl)celluloses, for example hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted in particular with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt.
[0108] Among the cellulose ester ethers, mention may be made of hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.
[0109] According to the present invention, the cellulose is preferably chosen from unsubstituted celluloses, cellulose esters, cellulose ethers, cellulose ester ethers, and mixtures thereof, more preferably chosen from unsubstituted celluloses.
[0110] Advantageously, the cellulose is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Amphoteric surfactant
[0111] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one amphoteric surfactant.
[0112] The term "amphoteric surfactant" refers to a surfactant that simultaneously carries the anionic and cationic hydrophilic group with its structure simultaneously containing hermaphroditic ions that are capable of forming a cation or an anion depending on ambient conditions (such as pH changes).
[0113] Useful amphoteric surfactants include betaines, sultaines (also known as sulfobetaines), alkyl amphoacetates and alkyl amphodiacetates, alkyl amphoproprionates, and mixtures thereof.
[0114] Preferably, the amphoteric surfactant is chosen from sultaines.
[0115] More preferably, the amphoteric surfactant is chosen from hydroxysultaine type surfactants.
[0116] In certain cases, the hydroxysultaine surfactant is chosen from (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(C1-C6 alkyl)hydroxylsulfobetaines.
[0117] Preferably, non-limiting examples of the hydroxysultaine surfactant include hydroxysultaines of formula (VI): O Œ3 RC—NH(Œ2)3—N+—ClLŒCÏLSOy CH? OH
[0118] in which R represents an alkyl group having 8 to 18 carbon atoms.
[0119] One of the particularly preferable hydroxysultaine surfactants is cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, for example, that sold under the trade name TC-SHD 50 RSPO MB by the company GUANGZHOU TINCI MATERIALS, or those available from SEPPIC or KAO CHEMICAL.
[0120] Advantageously, the amphoteric surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous solvent
[0121] The composition of the present invention may comprise at least one aqueous solvent.
[0122] Preferably, the aqueous solvent of the composition according to the present invention includes water and one or more water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible compounds, for example C2-C8 polyols and monoalcohols.
[0123] The term “polyol” means any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.
[0124] More preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises water.
[0125] Advantageously, the water is present in an amount ranging from 30% by weight to 95% by weight, preferably from 40% by weight to 90% by weight, and more preferably from 50% by weight to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional ingredients
[0126] The composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more additional ingredients, chosen from those conventionally used in cleaning and / or care products for keratinous material, for example hair and scalp.
[0127] The composition according to the present invention may comprise any of the following additives: pH correcting agents, biological extracts, perfumes, preservatives and chelating agents.
[0128] According to the present invention, non-limiting examples of pH correcting agents include potassium acetate, potassium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, sodium hydroxide, sodium hydrogen carbonate, ethanolamines, and mixtures thereof. A particularly preferable pH correcting agent is sodium hydroxide.
[0129] Those skilled in the art can adjust the type and amount of additional ingredients present in the compositions according to the present invention by means of routine operations, so that the desired properties of these compositions are not adversely affected by the additional ingredients. Composition
[0130] According to the present invention, the composition comprising the above components is a composition for cleaning and / or caring for keratinous material, preferably hair and scalp.
[0131] According to the present invention, the composition comprising the above components is preferably in the form of a fluid, for example a lotion, an emulsion, a paste, a cream or a gel. For the purposes of the present disclosure, the term "fluid" means that the composition can flow by means of an external force.
[0132] According to the present invention, the composition preferably has a pH value of 2 to 6.5, preferably 2 to 6, more preferably 3.5 to 5.2.
[0133] Thanks to the above specific components, the composition according to the present invention can ensure faster and more satisfactory inhibition of microorganisms and therefore better anti-dandruff efficacy, and can further provide improved sensations of smooth texture and softness, particularly during the wet phase, even at a lower pH value, for example a pH value of 2 to 6.5.
[0134] According to the present invention, microorganisms include all microorganisms that can affect the skin, nails, hair and scalp, and mucous membranes. Examples of microorganisms include, but are not limited to, non-dermatophytes (Candida species such as C. albicans, etc., Scopulariopsis species such as S. brevicaulis, and Malassezia spp.). These are yeasts represented by the genus Candida and Malassezia furfur (formerly called pityrosporon). Candida affects the skin, nails, hair, and scalp, as well as mucous membranes. Malassezia furfur, which is a common saprophyte of the skin, especially seborrheic skin, is the causative agent of pityriasis versicolor.
[0135] Furthermore, thanks to the specific fatty amine as defined above, the composition comprising it can further improve the smooth texture feeling of the keratinous material, even at a lower pH value, for example a pH value of 2 to 6.5.
[0136] By virtue of the specific hydroxysultaine surfactant as defined above, the foaming property of the composition comprising it can be improved, even at a lower pH value, for example a pH value of 2 to 6.5.
[0137] Thanks to the specific cationic polymer as defined above, the composition comprising it can further improve the feeling of smooth texture and / or the feeling of softness of the keratinous material, even at a lower pH value, for example a pH value of 2 to 6.5.
[0138] Thanks to the specific cellulose as defined above, the stability of the composition comprising it can be improved, even at a lower pH value, for example a pH value of 2 to 6.5.
[0139] Due to the relatively smaller particle size of the selenium sulfide raw material as defined above, the selenium sulfide can better disperse in the composition, and further provide improved smoothness and / or softness sensations for the composition comprising it, even at a lower pH value, for example a pH value of 2 to 6.5.
[0140] In a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a composition for cleaning and / or caring for keratinous material, relative to the total weight of the composition, comprising: a. 0.5% by weight to 8% by weight of at least one alpha-hydroxy acid which is a lower acid having 2 to 12 carbon atoms, more preferably 2 to 8 carbon atoms, even more preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms; b. 0.1% by weight to 8% by weight of at least one beta-hydroxy acid and / or derivatives thereof selected from salicylic acid, acetylsalicylic acid, capryloylsalicylic acid, and mixtures thereof; c. 0.005% by weight to 5% by weight of at least one selenium sulfide; and d. 1.2% by weight to 8% by weight of at least one nitrogen compound selected from arginine, including L-arginine, trolamine, diethanolamine, L-alanine, L-asparagine, L-aspartate, L-cysteine, L-glutamate, L-glutamine, L-glycine, L-histidine, L-isoleucine, L-leucine, L-lysine, L-methionine, L-phenylalanine, L-proline, L-serine, L-threonine, L-tryptophan, L-tyrosine, L-valine, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane, ethanolamine, diethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N-dimethylaminoethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, 3-isopropoxypropylamine, 3-methoxypropylamine (3-MPA), 3-ethoxypropylamine, 3-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-propylamine, 2-(2-aminoethoxy)ethanol (2-2AEE), 3-butoxypropylamine (3-BPA) and monoethanolamine (MEA), and mixtures thereof,
[0141] wherein the composition optionally has a pH value of 2 to 6.5.
[0142] In a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a composition for cleaning and / or caring for keratinous material, relative to the total weight of the composition, comprising: a. 0.5% by weight to 8% by weight of at least one alpha-hydroxy acid which is a lower monocarboxylic acid having 2 to 8 carbon atoms, even more preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as lactic acid; b. 0.1% by weight to 8% by weight of at least one beta-hydroxy acid and / or derivatives thereof selected from salicylic acid, acetylsalicylic acid, capryloylsalicylic acid, and mixtures thereof; c. 0.005% by weight to 5% by weight of at least one selenium sulfide; d. 1.2% by weight to 8% by weight of at least one selected nitrogen compound among L-arginine, trolamine, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane, ethanolamine, diethanolamine, and mixtures thereof; and optionally e. 0.05% by weight to 2% by weight of at least one cationic guar gum derivative,
[0143] wherein the composition optionally has a pH value of 2 to 6.5.
[0144] In a more preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a composition for cleaning and / or caring for keratinous material, relative to the total weight of the composition, comprising: a. 0.5% by weight to 8% by weight of at least one alpha-hydroxy acid which is a lower acid having 2 to 12 carbon atoms, more preferably 2 to 8 carbon atoms, even more preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms; b. 0.1% by weight to 8% by weight of at least one beta-hydroxy acid and / or derivatives thereof selected from salicylic acid, acetylsalicylic acid, capryloylsalicylic acid, and mixtures thereof; c. 0.005% by weight to 5% by weight of at least one selenium sulfide; d. 1.2% by weight to 8% by weight of at least one selected nitrogen compound among L-arginine, trolamine, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane, ethanolamine, diethanolamine, and mixtures thereof; and optionally e. 0.05% by weight to 2% by weight of at least one cationic guar gum derivative; and optionally at least one of the following components: f. 0.05% by weight to 2% by weight of at least one amidoamine; g. 0.05% by weight to 5% by weight of at least one cellulose; and h. 0.5% by weight to 15% by weight of at least one surfactant of the type hydroxysultaine;
[0145] wherein the composition optionally has a pH value of 2 to 6.5.
[0146] In a more preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a composition for cleaning and / or caring for keratinous material, relative to the total weight of the composition, comprising: a. 1% by weight to 6% by weight of at least one alpha-hydroxy acid which is a lower monocarboxylic acid having 2 to 8 carbon atoms, even more preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferably lactic acid; b. 0.5% by weight to 6% by weight of at least one beta-hydroxy acid and / or derivatives thereof selected from salicylic acid, acetylsalicylic acid, capryloylsalicylic acid, and mixtures thereof; c. 0.01% by weight to 3% by weight of selenium sulfide; and d. 1.5% by weight to 5% by weight of at least one selected nitrogen compound among L-arginine, trolamine, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane, ethanolamine, diethanolamine, and mixtures thereof, more preferably L-arginine; and optionally at least one of the following components: e. 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight of hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride; and f. 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight of brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine;
[0147] wherein the composition optionally has a pH value of 3.5 to 5.2.
[0148] In a more preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a composition for cleaning and / or caring for keratinous material, relative to the total weight of the composition, comprising: a. 1% by weight to 6% by weight of lactic acid; b. 0.5% by weight to 6% by weight of salicylic acid; c. 0.01% by weight to 3% by weight of selenium sulfide; d. 1.5% by weight to 5% by weight of L-arginine; and optionally e. 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight of hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride of hydroxypropyl guar;
[0149] wherein the composition optionally has a pH value of 3.5 to 5.2.
[0150] In an even more preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a composition for cleaning and / or caring for keratinous material, relative to the total weight of the composition, comprising: a. 1% by weight to 6% by weight of lactic acid; b. 0.5% by weight to 6% by weight of salicylic acid; c. 0.01% by weight to 3% by weight of selenium sulfide; and d. 1.5% by weight to 5% by weight of L-arginine; and optionally e. 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight of hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride of hydroxypropyl guar; and optionally at least one of the following components: f. 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight of brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine; g. 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight of an unsubstituted cellulose; and h. 1% by weight to 10% by weight of cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine;
[0151] wherein the composition optionally has a pH value of 3.5 to 5.2. Process and use
[0152] The composition according to the present invention can be used in a process of cleaning and / or caring for keratinous material, preferably hair and scalp, by being applied to the keratinous material.
[0153] It has been found that the composition according to the present invention can provide improved anti-dandruff efficacy and furthermore improved sensations of smooth texture and softness.
[0154] According to a second aspect, the present invention relates to a process for cleaning and / or caring for keratinous material, preferably hair and scalp, comprising the following steps: a. applying the above composition to a wet keratinous material; b. massaging the keratinous material for 2 seconds to 120 seconds; and c. rinsing the keratinous material with water.
[0155] Optionally, the process according to the present invention further comprises step d) of drying the keratinous material.
[0156] The present invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples described below, which are given by way of non-limiting illustrations. EXAMPLES
[0157] The main raw materials used, their trade names and suppliers are listed in Table 1, and materials not specified here were all commercially available.
[0158] [Tables 1] INCI name Trade name Supplier LACTIC ACID (ACID L ACTIC) L(4)-LACTIC ACID 90% HEAT STABLE PERSO NAL CARE GRADE JUNGBUNZLAUER SALICYLIC ACID (ACID E SALICYLIQUE) SALICYLIC ACID USP CELLMARK ARGININE L ARGININE KYOWA HAKKO SELENIUM SULFIDE (SULPHIDE OF SELENIUM ) SELENIUM SULPHIDE EP / USP MICRONIZED ESKAY FINE CHEMICA LS BRASSICAMIDOPROPY L DIMETHYLAMINE (B RASSICAMIDOPROPYL DIMETHYLAMINE) PROCONDITION 2 INOLEX CHEMICAL CO MPANY COCAMIDOPROPYL HY DROXYSULTAINE (CO CAMIDOPROPYL HYDR OXYSULTAINE) TC-SHD 50 RSPO MB GUANGZHOU TINCI M ATERIALS CELLULOSE AQUALON CMC 7H3SX F ASHLAND
[0159] Comparative Examples 1 to 3 and Examples 1 to 7 of the Invention
[0160] The compositions according to comparative examples (EC.) 1 to 3 and examples of the invention (Ex.) 1 to 7 comprising the ingredients indicated in Table 2 were prepared, all quantities being expressed as percentages by weight of active material relative to the total weight of each composition.
[0161] [Tables2] Components Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Ex. 5 Ex. 6 Ex. 7 EC . 1 EC .2 EC .3 Phase A WATER QP S 1 00 QP S 1 00 QP S 1 00 QP S 1 00 QP S 1 00 QP S 1 00 QP S 1 00 QP S 1 00 QP S 1 00 QP S 1 00 GUAR HYDROXYPROPYL-TRI MONIUM CHLORIDE / / / 0.3 / / / / / / CELLULOSE / / / / / 0.2 / / / / BRASSICAMIDOPR OPYL DIMETHYLA MINE / / / / 0.3 / / / / / Phase B COCAMIDOPROPY L HYDROXYSULTAIN / / / / / 5 / / / / SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE 15 15 15 15 15 15 15 15 15 15 Phase eC SALICYLIC ACID 1.9 1.9 1.9 1.9 1.9 1.9 1.9 / 1.9 1.9 ARGININE 2 2 2 2 2 2 1 2 / 0.2 LACTIC ACID 3 3 1 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 Phase eD SULFIDE SALT NIUM 0.1 0.6 0.6 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.6 0.1 0.1 pH (SO DIUM HYDROXIDE) 3.8 3.8 3.8 3.8 3.8 3.8 3.8 3.8 3.8 3.8 Preparation process
[0162] The composition was prepared from a process comprising the following steps: 1. Mix each component of Phase A until homogeneous to form Premix 1; 2. add each component of Phase B into Premix 1 and mix them thoroughly until transparent to form Premix 2; 3. add each component of Phase C into Premix 2 to form Premix 3; 4. add the selenium sulfide from Phase D into Premix 3 and mix them until homogeneous to form Mix 1; and 5. Correct the pH value of Mixture 1 to 3.8 by adding sodium hydroxide to form the final composition. Evaluation of compositions
[0163] The compositions as prepared were evaluated in terms of anti-dandruff efficacy and sensations of smooth texture and softness for wet hair. Anti-dandruff efficacy trial
[0164] The anti-dandruff efficacy of each composition of Examples 1 to 7 of the invention and Comparative Example 1 was evaluated as follows: 15 ml of each test sample was diluted by a factor of 10 and kept at a temperature of 20 °C for 5 min. The diluted sample was quickly and immediately mixed with a test solution of Malassezia furfur. After contacting for 2 min or 5 min, the surviving microorganisms were tested by a plate counting method.
[0165] The results of the anti-dandruff efficacy of the compositions of Examples 1 to 7 of the invention and of Comparative Example 1 are presented respectively in the following Table 3.
[0166] [Tables3] 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Ex.5 Ex. 6 Ex. 7 EC. 1% inhibition of Malassez ia Furfur (2 min) 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 20% inhibition of Malassez ia Furfur (5 min) 99.99 99.99 99.99 99.99 99.99 99.99 99.99 35
[0167] From the data in Table 3 above, it can be seen that all the compositions of Examples 1 to 7 of the invention, comprising an alpha-hydroxy acid, a beta-hydroxy acid and / or derivatives thereof, a selenium sulfide and a nitrogen compound according to the present invention, can provide a % inhibition of 99 after contacting the microorganism Malassezia Furfur with each composition for 2 min, and a % inhibition of 99.99 after contacting the microorganism Malassezia Furfur with each composition for 5 min.
[0168] In contrast, the composition of Comparative Example 1, which does not include a beta-hydroxy acid and / or derivatives thereof, provides a much lower % inhibition after contacting the microorganism Malassezia Furfur with the composition for 2 min and / or 5 min.
[0169] In this way, the compositions according to the present invention can ensure a faster and more satisfactory inhibition of microorganisms and therefore a better anti-dandruff efficacy.
[0170] Smooth texture and softness sensation test for wet hair
[0171] The smooth texture and softness sensations of each composition of Examples 1 to 7 of the invention and Comparative Examples 2 and 3 were evaluated as follows: I. Hair treatment with the composition:
[0172] A strand of damaged hair was chosen. The hair was combed and wetted under running water, the composition was applied evenly to the strand of damaged hair from root to tip, and the composition was gently distributed over the hair by massaging with two fingers from root to tip (without making a knot) to lather the composition. The composition was rinsed under running tap water until the foam was completely removed. I. Evaluation of smooth texture and softness in the wet state:
[0173] The hair strand was brushed with two fingers from the root, and the smoothness of the hair strand surface was assessed by 6 volunteers. They assigned scores as shown below and the average of the scores was calculated.
[0174] Then, the hair strand was curled from the tip using two fingers, and the softness of the hair strand was evaluated by 6 volunteers. They checked whether the hair strand was easy to curl and gave the scores as shown below which were averaged.
[0175] The rating standard for wet hair smooth texture feel of each composition was as follows.
[0176] Score 1: The hair strand was very difficult to comb, comb stuck 9-10 times by tangled hair;
[0177] Score 2: The hair strand was moderately difficult to comb, comb stuck 7-8 times by tangled hair;
[0178] Score 3: The hair strand was slightly difficult to comb, comb stuck 5-6 times by tangled hair;
[0179] Score 4: The hair strand was easy to comb, comb stuck 3-4 times by tangled hair; and
[0180] Score 5: The hair strand was very easy to comb, comb stuck 2 times or less by tangled hair.
[0181] The rating standard for the smoothness sensations of each composition was as follows:
[0182] Score 1: the hair strand is not soft;
[0183] Score 2: the hair strand is not so soft;
[0184] Score 3: the hair strand is quite soft;
[0185] Score 4: the hair strand is soft;
[0186] Score 5: the hair strand is very soft;
[0187] The results of smooth texture and softness sensations for wet hair of the compositions of Examples 1 to 7 of the invention and Comparative Examples 2 and 3 are presented respectively in the following Table 4.
[0188] [Tables4] Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Ex. 5 Ex. 6 Ex. 7 EC. 2 EC. 3 Feeling of smooth texture of wet hair 5 5 5 5 5 5 3 1 1 Feeling of softness of wet hair 5 5 5 5 5 5 3 1 2
[0189] From the data in Table 4 above, it can be seen that all of the compositions of Examples 1 to 7 of the invention, comprising an alpha-hydroxy acid, a beta-hydroxy acid and / or derivatives thereof, a selenium sulfide and a nitrogen compound according to the present invention, can produce a score of 3 or higher for both the smoothness and softness sensations for wet hair.
[0190] In contrast, each of the compositions of Comparative Examples 2 and 3, which do not comprise a nitrogen compound of the present invention, or comprise an amount of less than 1% by weight of nitrogen compound of the present invention, based on the weight of the composition, produces a score of 2 or less for the feeling of smoothness or softness.
[0191] In summary, the compositions according to the present invention can ensure faster and more satisfactory inhibition of microorganisms and therefore better anti-dandruff efficacy, while improving the sensations of smooth texture and softness on keratinous materials for wet hair.
Claims
Claims
1. Composition, preferably for cleaning and / or caring for keratinous material, comprising: a) at least one alpha-hydroxy acid; b) at least one beta-hydroxy acid and / or derivatives thereof; c) at least one selenium sulfide; and d) 1% by weight to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one nitrogenous compound corresponding to the following formula (III) R, R» \ | 'N---C----R2 Rs | in which Rh R2, R3, R4 and R5, independently of each other, denote a radical chosen from: - a hydrogen atom, - a carboxyl group, and - a linear C1-C6 or branched C3-C6 alkyl group, saturated or unsaturated, which is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms chosen from O, S and N, and / or optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from amino, imino, amidino, guanidino, hydroxyl, sulfhydryl, carboxyl, amido, perfluoro C1-C6 alkyl,a C1-C6 alkoxy, a sulfate, a phosphate, an aryl (preferably a phenyl), and a heterocyclyl which is preferably selected from a pyrimidyl, a piperidyl, a morpholinyl, a pyranyl, a furyl, a piperazinyl, a pyridyl, an imidazolyl, and an indolyl, and wherein R1 and R4 optionally form a ring which contains 5 or 6 atoms selected from carbon and nitrogen.,
2. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the alpha-hydroxy acid is a lower acid having 2 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably a lower monocarboxylic acid having 2 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and is more preferably lactic acid.
3. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the beta-hydroxy acid and / or derivatives thereof are selected from salicylic acid, its derivatives acylated on the hydroxyl group, and its derivatives of formula (I): 0^ / OH (1) R Cf O in which, R represents a linear, branched or cyclic saturated aliphatic group or an unsaturated aliphatic group containing one or a number of double bonds, which may or may not be conjugated, these groups containing from 2 to 22, preferably from 3 to 11 carbon atoms and being optionally substituted with at least one substituent selected from (a) halogen atoms, (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified by an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or (d) a carboxyl functional group which is free or esterified by a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;R' represents a hydroxyl group or an ester functional group of the following formula (II): OC Ri (II) 0 in which Ri is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched aliphatic group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 15 carbon atoms.;
4. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the beta-hydroxy acid and / or derivatives thereof are selected from salicylic acid, acetylsalicylic acid, capryloylsalicylic acid, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably salicylic acid.
5. The composition of claim 1, wherein the nitrogen compound is selected from arginine, including L-arginine, trolamine, diethanolamine, L-alanine, L-asparagine, L-aspartate, L-cysteine, L-glutamate, L-glutamine, L-glycine, L-histidine, L-isoleucine, L-leucine, L-lysine, L-methionine, L-phenylalanine, L-proline, L-serine, L-threonine, L-tryptophan, L-tyrosine, L- valine, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane, ethanolamine, diethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N-dimethylaminoethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, 3-isopropoxypropylamine, 3-methoxypropylamine (3-MPA), 3-ethoxypropylamine, 3-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-propylamine, 2-(2-aminoethoxy)ethanol (2-2AEE), 3-butoxypropylamine (3-BPA) and monoethanolamine (MEA), and mixtures thereof, preferably is selected from L-arginine, trolamine, tris(hydroxymethyl)amino-methane, ethanolamine, diethanolamine, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably is L-arginine.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one anionic surfactant, which is preferably chosen from alkyl ether sulfates corresponding to formula (IV): - (IV).0- in which, R represents a hydrogen or an alkyl chain having 6 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 18 carbon atoms, and more preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms; M is a solubilizing cation such as alkali metal ions, ammonium or substituted ammonium ions, or alkanolammonium ions; and n is an integer from 0 to 3, preferably between 1 and 3, more preferably between 2 and 3; and is most preferably sodium laureth sulfate, and in which, the anionic surfactant is preferably in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% by weight to 25% by weight, and more preferably from 10% by weight to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one cationic polymer which is preferably chosen from polyquaterniums, cationic guar gum derivatives and mixtures thereof, more preferably chosen from cationic guar gum derivatives, even more preferably is chloride of guar hydroxypropyltrimonium, and most preferably hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, wherein the cationic polymer is preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01% by weight to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% by weight to 2% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one fatty amine, which is preferably chosen from amidoamines corresponding to the following formula (V): RCONHR'N(R")2(V) in which R represents a hydrocarbon radical containing at least 6 carbon atoms, R' represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical containing less than 6 carbon atoms, and the R" which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or a hydrocarbon radical containing less than 6 carbon atoms, and more preferably, is selected from the group consisting of oleamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine,soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, wheat germamidopropyl dimethylamine, sunflowerseedamidopropyl dimethylamine, amlondamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, babassuamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, stearamidopropyl diethylamine, palmitamidopropyl diethylamine, palmitamidoethyl diethylamine, palmitamidoethyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyl diethylamine, behenamidoethyl diethylamine, behenamidoethyl dimethylamine, arachidamidopro pyl dimethylamine, arachidamidopropyl diethylamine, arachidamidoethyl diethylamine, arachidamidoethyl dimethylamine, diethylaminoethylstearamide, and mixtures thereof; and most preferably, is brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and wherein the fatty amine is preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01% by weight to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% by weight to 2% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. A composition for cleaning and / or caring for keratinous material, relative to the total weight of the composition, comprising: a) 1% by weight to 6% by weight of at least one alpha-hydroxy acid which is a lower monocarboxylic acid having 2 to 8 carbon atoms, even more preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferably lactic acid; b) 0.5% by weight to 6% by weight of at least one beta-hydroxy acid and / or derivatives thereof chosen from salicylic acid, acetylsalicylic acid, capryloylsalicylic acid, and mixtures thereof; c) 0.01% by weight to 3% by weight of selenium sulfide; and d) 1.5% by weight to 5% by weight of at least one nitrogen compound chosen from L-arginine, trolamine, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane, ethanolamine, diethanolamine, and mixtures thereof, more preferably L-arginine;and optionally at least one of the following components: e) 0.1 wt% to 1 wt% of hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride; and f) 0.1 wt% to 1 wt% of brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine; wherein the composition optionally has a pH value of 3.5 to 5.
2.
10. A process for cleaning and / or caring for keratinous material, preferably hair and scalp, comprising the following steps: a) applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 to the wet keratinous material, b) massaging the keratinous material for 2 seconds to 120 seconds, and c) rinsing the keratinous material with water.
Citation Information
Patent Citations
Process for the preparation of graft copolymers of a water soluble monomer and polysaccharide employing a two-phase reaction system
US4131576A