STABILIZATION OF A COMPOSITION COMPRISING A POLYHYDROXYACID, A BETA-HYDROXYACID AND A PEPTIDE WITH POLYOL

Abstract

STABILIZATION OF A COMPOSITION COMPRISING A POLYHYDROXYACID, A BETA-HYDROXYACID AND A PEPTIDE WITH POLYOL The present invention relates to a composition comprising: (a) at least one first compound selected from polyhydroxy acids and their salts; (b) at least one second compound selected from β-hydroxy acids and their salts; (c) at least one peptide; and (d) at least one polyol. The composition according to the present invention is stable. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: STABILIZATION OF A COMPOSITION COMPRISING A POLYHYDROXYACID, A BETA-HYDROXYACID AND A PEPTIDE WITH POLYOL Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition and, more preferably, a cosmetic skin care composition. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] Peptides are short sequences of amino acids, some of which have an activity or function useful for anti-aging skin care, such as anti-wrinkle activity. These peptides, generally referred to simply as "peptides" in the skin care field, are well-known active agents to be added to skin care products to improve the appearance of the skin's surface.

[0003] On the other hand, exfoliation is also a well-known means for improving the appearance of the skin surface, in particular for treating visible and / or tactile irregularities of human skin, and for example for reducing pigmentation defects such as freckles or marks due to acne or chicken pox, or for smoothing irregularities in the texture of the skin, in particular wrinkles or fine lines.

[0004] This exfoliation has the effect of removing part of the skin to be treated (the epidermis and possibly the upper layer of the dermis) by chemical methods such as the application of compositions containing one or more exfoliating agents stimulating the desquamation of the skin, for example alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA) such as glycolic acid or beta-hydroxy acids (BHA) such as salicylic acid, or other active substances such as retinoic acid, resorcinol, trichloroacetic acid or phenol. DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0005] Polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) are also useful as exfoliating agents. In general, PHAs have a larger molecular size than AHAs.

[0006] However, it has been found that if PHA is used in combination with a peptide and a BHA, in a composition, the composition becomes unstable.

[0007] An objective of the present invention is to provide a stable composition comprising a PHA in combination with a peptide and a BHA.

[0008] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition comprising: a. at least one first compound chosen from polyhydroxy acids and their salts; b. at least one second compound chosen from [3-hydroxy acids and their salts; c. at least one peptide; and d. at least one polyol.

[0009] The (a) first compound may be in the form of a lactone. It is preferable that the (a) first compound is gluconolactone.

[0010] The amount of the (a) first compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0011] The second compound (b) can be represented by the following formula (I):

[0012] in which:

[0013] - Ri represents a hydrogen atom, or an aliphatic, alkoxy, ester or saturated, linear, branched or cyclic ketone, an unsaturated hydrocarbon chain carrying one or more conjugated or unconjugated double bonds, these chains containing from 1 to 22 carbon atoms and which may be substituted by at least one substituent selected from halogen atoms, a trifluoromethyl group, a hydroxyl group in free form or esterified with an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and, alternatively, with a carboxyl functional group, which is free or esterified with a low molecular weight alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0014] - R2 represents a hydroxyl group or an ester functional group of formula (II) next: •g-lr no

[0015] - where R4 represents a saturated aliphatic group or an alkenyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms; and

[0016] - R3 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear hydrocarbon chain or branched saturated or unsaturated having from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally containing one or more substituents.

[0017] It is preferable that the second compound (b) is salicylic acid.

[0018] The amount of the (b) second compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0019] It is preferred that the (c) peptide is selected from the group consisting of acetyl hexapeptide-8, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, and a mixture thereof.

[0020] The amount of the (c) peptide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.0001% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.0005% to 0.5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.001% to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0021] The (d) polyol may be selected from glycols, preferably from the group consisting of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol and mixtures thereof, and more preferably selected from the group consisting of butylene glycol, pentylene glycol and a mixture thereof.

[0022] The amount of the (d) polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0023] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (e) at least one hydrophilic thickener.

[0024] The amount of the hydrophilic thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0025] The composition according to the present invention may not comprise an α-hydroxy acid.

[0026] The present invention further relates to a cosmetic method for treating a keratinous substance, preferably for treating the skin, and more preferably for exfoliating the skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention. Best mode for carrying out the invention

[0027] After careful research, the inventors discovered that it was possible to provide a stable composition which comprises a PHA in combination with a peptide and a BHA.

[0028] Thus, one aspect of the present invention is a composition, comprising: a. at least one first compound chosen from polyhydroxy acids and their salts; b. at least one second compound chosen from [3-hydroxy acids and their salts; c. at least one peptide; and d. at least one polyol.

[0029] A composition comprising the (a) first compound in combination with the (b) second compound and the (c) peptide, without the (d) polyol, is unstable, so that the composition becomes cloudy, separates into different phases, causes precipitation or color changes, particularly at higher temperature or when changing from hot to cold, and vice versa.

[0030] On the other hand, the composition according to the present invention comprising the (d) polyol, with the (a) first compound, the (b) second compound and the (c) peptide is stable. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can prevent or reduce haze, separation into different phases, precipitation or color change, particularly at a higher temperature or when changing from hot to cold, and vice versa.

[0031] Therefore, the composition according to the present invention is stable and can be stored safely, even in heat or for a prolonged period, for example from summer to winter.

[0032] The composition according to the present invention can also provide additional effects.

[0033] It is known that (d) polyol such as glycerin causes a sticky feeling to the touch. The term "sticky" herein means a property that gives a sticky feeling to the skin.

[0034] The composition according to the present invention includes (d) polyol in order to stabilize the composition. The greater the amount of (d) polyol, the more stabilized the composition. However, even if the amount of (d) polyol is increased, surprisingly, the adhesion of the composition according to the present invention is not increased (and is rather reduced as a rule). In other words, the adhesion of the composition may be reduced, and therefore, the composition according to the present invention may provide a less sticky feel to the touch.

[0035] Thus, the composition according to the present invention can provide an excellent feel, such as a less sticky feel during and / or after application of the composition.

[0036] However, using too much of the (d) polyol tends to increase adhesion due to its own properties. Therefore, it is preferable that the amount of (d) polyol in the composition according to the present invention either 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0037] The composition according to the present invention is useful for erasing the superficial layer of the stratum corneum, or horny layer, of the skin.

[0038] Thus, the composition according to the present invention can provide cosmetic effects of skin exfoliation, improvement of skin condition, and the like, both in terms of skin appearance and feel, including skin smoothing, refinement and lightening of skin tone, and reduction of blemishes, pores, and blackheads.

[0039] The composition according to the present invention is also useful for reducing wrinkles and / or fine lines on the skin, resulting in an improvement in the appearance of the skin surface.

[0040] Thus, the composition according to the present invention can also provide anti-aging cosmetic effects, for example.

[0041] The present invention will be explained in more detail below.

[0042] [Composition]

[0043] The composition according to the present invention includes: a. at least one first compound chosen from polyhydroxy acids and their salts; b. at least one second compound selected from [3-hydroxy acid and its salts; c. at least one peptide; and d. at least one polyol. (Polyhydroxyacid)

[0044] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one first compound selected from polyhydroxy acids and their salts. If two or more first compounds are used, they may be the same or different.

[0045] The term "polyhydroxy acid" herein refers to an organic compound which has at least one carboxyl group and a plurality of hydroxy groups. The number of carboxyl groups in the polyhydroxy acid is not limited, but one or two carboxyl groups are preferable, and a single carboxyl group is more preferable. The number of hydroxyl groups in the polyhydroxy acid is also not limited, but 2 to 10 are preferable, and 2 to 6 are more preferable. The number of carbon atoms in the polyhydroxy acid is not limited, but 3 to 11 atoms are preferable, and 3 to 8 atoms are more preferable.

[0046] The above organic compound may be aliphatic or aromatic. In other words, the polyhydroxy acid may be selected from aliphatic polyhydroxy acids or aromatic polyhydroxy acids. It is preferable that the aliphatic polyhydroxy acid is selected from sugar acids.

[0047] Examples of polyhydroxy acid include dihydroxypropanoic acid such as glyceric acid; trihydroxybutanoic acid such as erythronic acid and threonic acid; tetrahydroxypentanoic acid such as ribonic acid, arabinoic acid, xylonic acid and lyxonic acid; pentahydroxyhexanoic acid such as allonic acid, altronic acid, gluconic acid, mannoic acid, gulonic acid, idonic acid, galactonic acid and talonic acid; hexahydroxyheptanoic acid such as glucoheptanoic acid, galactoheptonic acid; tartaric acid; lactobionic acid, maltobionic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0048] It is preferable that the (a) first compound is in the form of a lactone. The lactone ring of the (a) first compound in the form of a lactone may be saturated. Examples of the (a) first compound include gluconolactone, ribonolactone and a mixture thereof.

[0049] It is preferable that the (a) first compound is gluconolactone. As gluconolactone, a commercially available product, such as Glucono-delta-Lactone F5010 marketed by Jungbunzlauer, can be used.

[0050] The type of the salt is not limited. Examples of the salt include alkali metal salts such as sodium salt and potassium salt; alkaline earth metal salts such as calcium salt and magnesium salt; zinc salts; iron salts; ammonium salts; amine salts such as monoethanolamine salt, diethanolamine salt and triethanolamine salt; and mixtures thereof. The sodium salt is preferable. If two or more salts are used, they may be the same or different.

[0051] The amount of the (a) first compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention is 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0052] Furthermore, the amount of the (a) first compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0053] The amount of the (a) first compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (P-hydroxy acid)

[0054] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one second compound selected from [3-hydroxy acids and their salts. If two or more second compounds are used, they may be the same or different.

[0055] The term "[3-hydroxy acid", or "BHA", herein refers to a carboxylic acid which has at least one hydroxyl group on the beta carbon atom.

[0056] As [3-hydroxy acids], mention may be made, without limitation, of salicylic acid and its derivatives.

[0057] Salicylic acid and its derivatives can be represented by the following formula (I):

[0058] in which:

[0059] - Ri represents a hydrogen atom, or an aliphatic, alkoxy, ester or saturated, linear, branched or cyclic ketone, an unsaturated hydrocarbon chain carrying one or more conjugated or unconjugated double bonds, these chains containing from 1 to 22 carbon atoms and which may be substituted by at least one substituent selected from halogen atoms, a trifluoromethyl group, a hydroxyl group in free form or esterified with an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and, alternatively, with a carboxyl functional group, which is free or esterified with a low molecular weight alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0060] - R2 represents a hydroxyl group or an ester functional group of formula (II) next: (11)

[0061] - where R4 represents a saturated aliphatic group or an alkenyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0062] - R3 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear hydrocarbon chain or branched saturated or unsaturated having from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally containing one or more substituents. The hydrocarbon chain may be chosen from alkyl and alkenyl radicals containing from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, which are optionally substituted. The substituent may in particular be a hydroxyl radical.

[0063] In particular:

[0064] - Ri represents a hydrogen atom, or an aliphatic, alkoxy, ester or saturated, linear, branched or cyclic ketone, an unsaturated hydrocarbon chain carrying one or more conjugated or unconjugated double bonds, these chains containing from 1 to 22 carbon atoms and possibly being substituted by at least one substituent chosen from halogen atoms, a trifluoromethyl group, a group hydroxyl in free form or esterified with an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and, alternatively, with a carboxyl functional group, which is free or esterified with a low molecular weight alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0065] - R2 represents a hydroxyl group or an ester functional group of formula (II) next:

[0066] - where R4 represents a saturated aliphatic group or an alkenyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0067] - R3 represents a hydrogen atom or an aliphatic hydrocarbon chain saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, containing from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally containing one or more substituents.

[0068] When R3 is a hydrogen atom, it is also possible to use salts of the acids of formula (I) above, and in particular the salts obtained by salification with a base.

[0069] As a base capable of salifying the salicylic acid derivatives of formula (I) above, mention may be made, without limitation, of inorganic bases such as alkali metal hydroxides (sodium and potassium hydroxides) or ammonium hydroxides or better still organic bases such as primary, secondary, tertiary or cyclic organic amines, and more particularly amino acids. As examples of bases, mention may be made of glycine, lysine, arginine, taurine, histidine, alanine, valine, cysteine, trihydroxymethylaminomethylamine (TRISTA) and triethanolamine.

[0070] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, as derivatives of formula (I) above, those whose radical Ri contains at least 4 carbon atoms and which are used in the composition of the present invention are preferred. It is for example formed from a saturated linear alkyl or alkoxy radical having from 4 to 11 carbon atoms.

[0071] As derivatives of formula (I) above in which R 1 is formed from a linear saturated alkyl or alkoxy radical having from 4 to 11 carbon atoms, R 2 is a hydroxyl group, and R 3 is a hydrogen atom, examples that may be mentioned are 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid (CTFA name: Capryloyl Salicylic Acid), 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-octylsalicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, 5-tert-octylsalicylic acid, 5-butoxysalicylic acid, 5-ethoxysalicylic acid, 5-methoxysalicylic acid, 5-propoxysalicylic acid, 5-methylsalicylic acid, 5-ethylsalicylic acid and 5-propylsalicylic acid, and mixtures thereof, these acids generally being salified with a base; the compounds described in document EP-A-570230 can also be used.

[0072] When R 1 represents a hydrogen atom and R 2 represents a hydroxyl group, the derivative of formula (I) above is a salicylic acid ester. It preferably includes fatty alcohol esters such as dodecyl, hexadecyl, stearyl, cetyl, myristyl, linoleyl, octyl, oleyl and tridecyl alcohol esters, or butyric, propyl and ethyl alcohol esters, or alternatively polyol esters such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, ethylene glycol or glycerol esters, or mixtures of these esters. This may include in particular cetyl salicylate, dodecyl salicylate and tridecyl salicylate.

[0073] As the second compound (b), salicylic acid is preferable.

[0074] The amount of the (b) second compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0075] Furthermore, the amount of the (b) second compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0076] The amount of the (b) second compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Peptide)

[0077] The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one peptide. If two or more peptides are used, they may be the same or different.

[0078] The term "peptide" herein refers to a chain of amino acid monomers linked by amide bonds. In some embodiments, a peptide includes 2 amino acid residues to 50 amino acid residues (e.g., 2 to 20 amino acid residues, 2 to 10 amino acid residues, or 5 to 10 amino acid residues).

[0079] It is preferable that the (c) peptide is selected from oligopeptides having approximately 2 to 20, preferably approximately 4 to 10, or most preferably 5 to 6 amino acids.

[0080] Examples of (c) peptide include, but are not limited to, dipeptides, tripeptides, tetraprides, pentapeptides, hexapeptides, and heptapeptides.

[0081] The (c) peptide may be substituted with acyl groups such as acetyl, palmitoyl, and the like. Suitable acyl groups include acetyl, palmitoyl, or myristoyl.

[0082] It is preferable that the (c) peptide has anti-wrinkle activity for the skin. The anti-wrinkle activity may be based on the relaxation of muscle contraction, which forms wrinkles on the skin. The relaxation may be caused by the blockage of acetylchorine at the synapses between nerves and muscles.

[0083] In one embodiment of the present invention, examples of (c) peptide may include one or more peptides selected from acetyl hexapeptides (such as acetyl hexapeptide-3, -37, -38 and -51), acetyl tetrapeptides (such as acetyl tetrapeptide-2, -3, -5, -7, -8, -9, -11 and -15), and combinations thereof.

[0084] Specific examples of the (c) peptide include hexapeptides 1 to 60, said range including each integer between 1 and 60, and hexapeptides that are acetylated, palmitoylated or myristoylated such as acetyl hexapeptides 1, 2, 3, 5, 7, 8, 9, 11, 15, 19, 20, 22, 24, 30, 31, 37, 38, 39, 40 and 51.

[0085] Acetyl hexapeptide-8 is particularly preferred, and is obtained by acetylation of hexapeptide-8, which is a synthetic peptide containing arginine, glutamic acid, glutamine and methionine.

[0086] Acetyl-8 hexapeptide has the following amino acid sequence: Ac-Glu-Glu-Met-Gln-Arg-Arg-NH2

[0087] in which

[0088] - Ac: acetyl,

[0089] - Glu: La-glutamyl group,

[0090] - Met: L-methionyl group,

[0091] - Gin: L-Glutaminyl group, and

[0092] - Arg: L-Arginyl group.

[0093] Acetyl-8 hexapeptide can be purchased from Lipotec SA under the trade name Argireline®.

[0094] Other specific examples of the (c) peptide include compounds represented by the following formula (III): (III)

[0095] in which

[0096] - n represents 0, 1 or 2,

[0097] - R1 and R4, independently of each other, are selected from the group consisting of H, C1-C6 alkyl, amidino and tetra-C1-C6-alkylamidinium,

[0098] - R2 is H or C1-C6 alkyl, or R1 and R2, together with the residue to which they are attached, form a saturated cycle with 5 to 7 members;

[0099] - R3 is selected from the group consisting of C1-C6 alkyl, C1-C6 aralkyl and heteroaryl C1-C6 alkyl, and

[0100] - R5 is H and, when n is 1, also NH2, or R5 and R1, in conjugation with the residue to which they are linked, form a saturated cycle of 5 to 7 members,

[0101] or one of their cosmetically acceptable salts

[0102] The term "C1-C6 alkyl" as used herein means unbranched C1-C6 alkyl or branched C3-C6 alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, 1-methylethyl, n-butyl, 1-methylpropyl, 2-methylpropyl, 1,1-dimethylethyl, n-pentyl, 1-methylbutyl, 2-methylbutyl, 3-methylbutyl, 2,2-dimethylpropyl, 1-ethylpropyl, n-hexyl, 1,1-dimethylpropyl, 1,2-dimethylpropyl, 1-methylpentyl, 2-methylpentyl, 3-methylpentyl, 4-methylpentyl, 1,1-dimethylbutyl, 1,2-dimethylbutyl, 1,3-dimethylbutyl, 2,2-dimethylbutyl, 2,3-dimethylbutyl, 3,3-dimethylbutyl, 1-ethylbutyl, 2-ethylbutyl, 1,1,2-trimethylpropyl, 1,2,2-trimethylpropyl, 1-ethyl-1-methylpropyl and 1-ethyl-2-methylpropyl.

[0103] The term "arCi-C6 alkyl" as used herein refers to a C1-C6 alkyl-aryl wherein the term "aryl" is, for example, phenyl, indanyl, or naphthyl. "arC1-C6 alkyl" may be referred to as a "C1-C6 aralkyl" group. Examples of an "arCi-C6 alkyl" group or a "C1-C6 aralkyl" group include a benzyl group.

[0104] The term "C1-C6 heteroaryl alkyl" as used herein refers to C1-C6 alkyl-heteroaryl wherein the term "heteroaryl" refers to a 5- or 6-membered aromatic ring containing one or more heteroatoms, namely, N, O, or S; such heteroaromatic rings may be fused to other aromatic systems.

[0105] Examples of the 5- to 7-membered saturated ring, which R1 and R2 or R1 and R5, respectively, can form with the residue to which they are attached, are pyrrolidinyl, piperidinyl, piperazinyl, morpholinyl, azepinyl, oxazolidinyl, thiazolidinyl and 1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinolinyl.

[0106] It is understood that the present invention encompasses compounds of formula (III) such as optically pure isomers, such as, for example, pure enantiomers or stereoisomers, as well as mixtures of different isomers, such as, for example, in the form of racemates, or mixtures of diastereoisomers.

[0107] It is understood that the term "cosmetically acceptable salt" refers to non-toxic acid addition salts, i.e., salts which are physiologically acceptable and may be used in contact with the skin, lips, hair or gums without causing undesirable or deleterious effects. Preferably, the term "or a cosmetically acceptable salt thereof" refers to compounds of formula (III) in the form of an acid addition salt, such as in the form of a chloride, acetate, mesylate or trifluoroacetate salt. Alternatively, the salt may be formed by reaction with an alkali or alkaline earth base giving rise to the respective alkali or alkaline earth salt, such as, in particular, the respective lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium or calcium salts.

[0108] It is preferable that the compounds of formula (III) above are in the form of their acetates or trifluoroacetates. Such salts are readily prepared by a person skilled in the art.

[0109] It is preferable that R1, R4 and R5 are H.

[0110] It is preferable that R2 is H or a methyl group, and more preferably, H.

[0111] It is preferable that R3 is a C1-C6 aralkyl group and more preferably a benzyl group.

[0112] It is preferable that “n” is equal to 0 or 1, and more preferably equal to 1.

[0113] It is preferable that, in the formula (III) above, R1, R2, R4 and R5 are an atom of H, that R3 is a benzyl group, and that “n” is equal to 1.

[0114] Compounds of formula (III) may be prepared as disclosed for example in US-A-2009 / 0111731.

[0115] It is particularly preferred that the compound of formula (III) above is a dipeptide having the sequence: H-(beta-Ala)-Pro-Dab-NH-benzyl, particularly in the diacetate form. This compound is also known as Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl benzylamide Diacetate (INCI) [CAS 823202-99-9], and is commercially available as SYN®-AKE from DSM Nutritional products Ltd., which is a 0.2% to 0.3% by weight solution of dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate.

[0116] It is preferred that the (c) peptide is selected from the group consisting of acetyl hexapeptide-8, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, and a mixture thereof.

[0117] The amount of (c) peptide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.0001% by weight or more, preferably 0.0005% by weight or more and more preferably 0.001% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0118] Furthermore, the amount of the (c) peptide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.5% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0119] The amount of the (c) peptide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.00001% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.0005% to 0.5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.001% to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Polyol)

[0120] The composition according to the present invention comprises (d) at least one polyol. If two or more polyols are used, they may be the same or different.

[0121] The term "polyol" herein refers to an alcohol having two or more hydroxy groups and does not include a saccharide or a derivative thereof. The derivative of a saccharide includes a sugar alcohol obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a saccharide, as well as a saccharide or a sugar alcohol in which the hydrogen atom or atoms in one or more hydroxy groups thereof has been replaced by at least one substituent such as an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acyl group or a carbonyl group.

[0122] The (d) polyol used in the present invention is in the form of a liquid at room temperature, for example at 25 C under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 105 kPa).

[0123] The (d) polyol may be a C2-24 polyol, preferably a C2-9 polyol comprising at least 2 hydroxy groups, and preferably a C4.6 polyol comprising 2 to 5 hydroxy groups.

[0124] The (d) polyol may be a natural or synthetic polyol. The (d) polyol may have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.

[0125] The (d) polyol may be selected from glycerins and their derivatives, as well as glycols and their derivatives. The (d) polyol may be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, a polyglycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, C6-C24 polyethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, and mixtures thereof. The (d) polyol may not be glycerin.

[0126] It is preferable that the (d) polyol is chosen from glycols, more preferably from the group consisting of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol and mixtures thereof, and even more preferably chosen from butylene glycol, pentylene glycol and one of their mixtures.

[0127] The amount of the (d) polyol(s) in the composition used in the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 2% by weight or more (or more than 2% by weight), and more preferably 3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0128] Furthermore, the amount of the (d) polyol(s) in the composition used in the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, more preferably 10% by weight or less, and even more preferably 8% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0129] The amount of the (d) polyol(s) in the composition used in the present invention may range from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 3% to 10% by weight (or more than 3% to 10% by weight), and even more preferably from 3% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Hydrophilic thickener)

[0130] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (e) at least one hydrophilic thickener. If two or more hydrophilic thickeners are used, they may be the same or different.

[0131] The hydrophilic thickener (e) may thicken the composition according to the present invention, if the composition comprises water.

[0132] Hydrophilic thickeners that may be cited include carboxyvinyl polymers such as Carbopol products (carbomers) and Pemulen products (acrylate / C10-C30 alkyl acrylate copolymer); polyacrylamides, for example those sold under the names Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: polyacrylamide / C13-C14 isoparaffin / Laureth 7) sold by the company SEPPIC; acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymers, for example, Simulgel FL (CTFA name: hydroxyethylacrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer / polysorbate 60), Simulgel 800 (CTFA name: sodium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate / polysorbate 80 / sorbitan oleate) or Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80) marketed by the company SEPPIC;polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, optionally neutralized, for example poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) sold by Clariant under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate); copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate, for example, Simulgel NS and Sepinov EMT 10 sold by SEPPIC; cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyethylcellulose, methylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose and mixtures thereof. ;

[0133] It is preferable that the hydrophilic thickener is chosen from cellulose derivatives.

[0134] It is more preferable that the hydrophilic thickener is hydroxyethylcellulose.

[0135] The amount of the hydrophilic thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.01% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0136] Furthermore, the amount of the hydrophilic thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0137] The amount of the hydrophilic thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 3% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Additional ingredient)

[0138] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (f) at least one additional ingredient selected from water; α-hydroxy acids and their salts, which is different from the (a) first compound; a pH correcting agent; and mixtures thereof. If two or more additional ingredients are used, they may be the same or different.

[0139] Water:

[0140] The composition according to the present invention may comprise water.

[0141] The amount of water in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more and, more preferably, 70% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0142] Furthermore, the amount of water in the composition according to the present invention may be 95% by weight or less, preferably 90% by weight or less and more preferably 85% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0143] The amount of water in the composition according to the present invention may be from 50% to 95% by weight, preferably from 60% to 90% by weight, and more preferably from 70% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0144] Alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA):

[0145] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one α-hydroxy acid. If two or more α-hydroxy acids are used, they may be the same or different.

[0146] The term "α-hydroxy acid" or "AHA" herein refers to a carboxylic acid that has at least one carboxyl group and at least one hydroxyl group separated by a carbon atom. Thus, in other words, AHA is a carboxylic acid that has at least one hydroxyl group on the adjacent (alpha) carbon atom.

[0147] The α-hydroxy acid may be chosen from, for example, glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, mandelic acid and mixtures thereof, preferably from glycolic acid, citric acid and one of their mixtures, more preferably from glycolic acid.

[0148] The amount of α-hydroxy acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.01% by weight or more and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0149] Furthermore, the amount of α-hydroxy acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0150] The amount of α-hydroxy acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0151] In certain embodiments, it may be preferable in terms of reducing possible skin irritation if the composition according to the present invention does not include an α-hydroxy acid.

[0152] pH correcting agent:

[0153] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one pH correcting agent. If two or more pH correcting agents are used, they may be the same or different.

[0154] The pH correcting agent can control the pH of the composition according to the present invention.

[0155] The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be less than 7, preferably less than or equal to 6, and more preferably less than or equal to 5. The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be greater than or equal to 3.0, preferably greater than or equal to 3.5 and more preferably greater than or equal to 4.0. Thus, the pH of the composition according to the present invention may be from 3.0 to less than 7, preferably from 3.5 to 6, and more preferably from 4.0 to 5.

[0156] As pH correcting agent, at least one acidifying agent and / or at least one basifying agent (alkaline agent) may be used.

[0157] The acidifying agents may be, for example, inorganic or organic acids, for example hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, sulfonic acid, and carboxylic acids, such as lactic acid.

[0158] The basifying agent or alkaline agent may be, for example, any inorganic or organic basic agent commonly used in cosmetic products, such as ammonia; alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamine, isopropanolamine; metal hydroxides such as alkali metal hydroxide (e.g., sodium and potassium hydroxides); urea, guanidine and their derivatives; and diamines such as those described in the structure below: R] R3 N—RN R2 R4

[0159] in which

[0160] - R denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally substituted by a hydroxyl or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, and Rb R2, R1 and R4 independently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical, an example of which may be 1,3-propanediamine and its derivatives. Alkali metal hydroxide such as potassium hydroxide is preferable.

[0161] The amount of the pH correcting agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.01% by weight or more and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0162] Furthermore, the amount of the pH correcting agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0163] The amount of the pH correcting agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.001% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Other ingredients)

[0164] The composition according to the present invention may also include various adjuvants traditionally used in cosmetic compositions, such as anionic, cationic, non-ionic and amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers; anionic, cationic, non-ionic and amphoteric surfactants, antioxidants, coloring agents, chelating agents, sequestering agents, perfumes, dispersing agents, conditioning agents, film-forming agents, preservatives, co preservatives, and their mixtures, except for the ingredients as explained above.

[0165] The amount of the adjuvant or adjuvants in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0166] Furthermore, the amount of the adjuvant or adjuvants in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0167] The amount of the adjuvant or adjuvants in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Methods of implementation)

[0168] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0169] 0.01% to 20% by weight of (a) at least one polyhydroxy acid;

[0170] 0.01% to 10% by weight of (b) at least one [3-hydroxy acid;

[0171] 0.0001% to 1% by weight of (c) at least one peptide; and

[0172] 1% to 20% by weight of (d) polyol.

[0173] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0174] 0.1% to 15% by weight of (a1) gluconolactone;

[0175] 0.05% to 5% by weight of (b1) salicylic acid;

[0176] 0.0005% to 0.5% by weight of (c1) at least one peptide having anti-wrinkle activity for the skin; and

[0177] 2% to 15% by weight of (d1) polyol chosen from glycols.

[0178] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention includes, in relation to the total weight of the composition:

[0179] 1% to 10% by weight of (a1) gluconolactone;

[0180] 0.1% to 1% by weight of (b1) salicylic acid;

[0181] 0.001% to 0.1% by weight of (c1) at least one peptide selected from the group consisting of of acetyl hexapeptide-8, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, and a mixture thereof; and

[0182] 3% to 10% by weight of (d1) polyol selected from the group consisting of butylene glycol, pentylene glycol and a mixture thereof.

[0183] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0184] 1% to 10% by weight of (a1) gluconolactone;

[0185] 0.1% to 1% by weight of (b1) salicylic acid;

[0186] 0.001% to 0.1% by weight of (c1) at least one peptide selected from the group consisting of of acetyl hexapeptide-8, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, and a mixture thereof; and

[0187] 3% to 10% by weight of (d1) polyol selected from the group consisting of butylene glycol, pentylene glycol and a mixture thereof, provided that the composition does not include an α-hydroxyacid. [Preparation]

[0188] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and the optional ingredient(s), if any, as explained above.

[0189] The method and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention. [Shape]

[0190] The form of the composition according to the present invention is not limited. Thus, the composition according to the present invention may be in the form of, for example, a solution, a gel or an emulsion. However, it is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is in the form of an emulsion. It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is in the form of a liquid such as a solution.

[0191] The composition according to the present invention may be transparent or translucent.

[0192] Transparency can be measured by measuring turbidity (turbidity can be measured for example with a 2100Q incandescent lamp (marketed by Hach Company) with a round cell (25 mm in diameter and 60 mm in height) and a tungsten filament lamp capable of emitting visible light (between 400 and 800 nm, preferably 400 to 500 nm). The measurement can be carried out on the undiluted composition. The blank test can be evaluated with distilled water.

[0193] The composition according to the present invention may have a turbidity of 50 NTU or less, preferably 40 NTU or less, more preferably 30 NTU or less, more preferably 20 NTU or less, more preferably 10 NTU or less, and even more preferably 5 NTU or less. [Process and Use]

[0194] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is a cosmetic composition, preferably a cosmetic composition for the skin and more preferably, a cosmetic skin care composition.

[0195] The skin here includes the skin of the face, the skin of the neck and the scalp. The composition according to the present invention can also be used for mucous membranes such as the lips and the like.

[0196] Since the composition according to the present invention includes (a) at least one first compound selected from polyhydroxy acids and their salts, the composition according to the present invention can be used for skin exfoliation while providing reduced skin discomfort, such as reduced skin irritation. In other words, the composition according to the present invention is useful as a skin exfoliation composition. Skin exfoliation herein means exfoliation of the surface layer of the skin, in particular the stratum corneum of the skin.

[0197] The composition according to the present invention can be used for a non-therapeutic process, such as a cosmetic process, for treating a keratinous substance, preferably for treating the skin and more preferably for exfoliating the skin, by being applied to the skin.

[0198] Thus, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating a keratinous substance, preferably for treating the skin, and more preferably for exfoliating the skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous substance, in particular to the skin.

[0199] The present invention may also relate to a use of the composition according to the present invention as a cosmetic product or in a cosmetic product such as skin care products. In other words, the composition according to the present invention may be used, as such, as a cosmetic product. Alternatively, the composition according to the present invention may be used as an element of a cosmetic product. For example, the composition according to the present invention may be added or combined with any other element to form a cosmetic product.

[0200] The care product may be in the form of a solution, a gel, a lotion, and the like.

[0201] Another aspect of the present invention may relate to a use of (d) at least one polyol

[0202] in a composition comprising: a. at least one first compound chosen from polyhydroxy acids and their salts; b. at least one second compound selected from [3-hydroxy acids and their salts; and c. at least one peptide,

[0203] in order to stabilize the composition.

[0204] Furthermore, another aspect of the present invention may relate to a use of (d) at least one polyol

[0205] in a composition comprising: a. at least one first compound chosen from polyhydroxy acids and their salts; b. at least one second compound selected from [3-hydroxy acids and their salts; and c. at least one peptide,

[0206] in which

[0207] the amount of (d) polyol in the composition is from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0208] in order to reduce the adhesion of the composition.

[0209] The above explanations regarding ingredients (a) to (d), as well as optional ingredients, for the composition according to the present invention may apply to those for the above use according to the present invention. The explanations regarding the preparation and forms of the composition according to the present invention may also apply to those of the composition described in the above use according to the present invention.

[0210] Another aspect of the present invention may relate to a process or method of stabilizing a composition comprising: a. at least one first compound chosen from polyhydroxy acids and their salts; b. at least one second compound selected from [3-hydroxy acids and their salts; and c. at least one peptide,

[0211] characterized by the addition (d) of at least one polyol to the composition.

[0212] Further, another aspect of the present invention may relate to a process or method of reducing adhesion of a composition comprising: a. at least one first compound chosen from polyhydroxy acids and their salts; b. at least one second compound selected from [3-hydroxy acids and their salts; and c. at least one peptide,

[0213] characterized by the addition (d) of at least one polyol to the composition,

[0214] in which

[0215] the amount of polyol (d) in the composition is from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0216] The above explanations concerning ingredients (a) to (d), as well as optional ingredients, for the composition according to the present invention, can be applied to those for the above process or method according to the present invention. The explanations concerning the preparation and forms of the composition according to the present invention can also be applied to those of the composition described in the above process or method according to the present invention. EXAMPLES

[0217] The present invention will be described in more detail with the aid of examples which should not, however, be interpreted as limiting the scope of the present invention. [Examples 1 to 4 and Comparative Example 1]

[0218] The following compositions according to Examples 1 to 4 and Comparative Example 1, shown in Table 1, were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 1. The numerical values ​​for the amounts of the components shown in Table 1 are all based on "% by weight" of raw materials, unless otherwise stated (AM: active ingredient). In Table 1, the total amount of polyols (butylene glycol and pentylene glycol) is shown in the line "Amount of polyol".

[0219] [Table 1]

[0220] [Tables 1] Ingredients Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Ex. comp. 1 Pentylene glycol 1.3 2.1 3 4.3 - Butylene glycol 1.7 2.9 4 5.7 - Acetyl hexapeptide-8*1 0.002 MA 0.002 MA 0.002 MA 0.002 MA 0.002 MA Diaminobutyroyl dipeptide benzylamide diacetate*2 0.01 MA 0.01 MA 0.01 MA 0.01 MA 0.01 MA Gluconolactone 5 5 5 5 5 Salicylic acid 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Amount of polyol 3 5 7 10 - Stability Good Good Good Good Poor Lack of adhesion 3.2 3.0 2.6 3.1 3.3 [0221 ] * 1: ARGIRELINE® AMPLIFIED PEPTIDE SOLUTION (LIPOTEC)

[0222] *2: SYN®-AKE (DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS) [Evaluations] (Stability)

[0223] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 4 and Comparative Example 1 was introduced into a glass bottle and kept at a temperature of 55 C for 1 day, and then subjected to a temperature change from -20 C to 20 °C for 10 days (10 cycles). Each sample was then studied in terms of the degree of change in appearance (color and homogeneity) and was evaluated in accordance with the following criteria:

[0224] Good: no change in appearance was observed

[0225] Bad: Changes in appearance (cloudiness and phase separation) were observed.

[0226] The results are shown in Table 1.

[0227] (Lack of adhesion)

[0228] Seven professional panelists evaluated the "non-sticky feeling" after application of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 4 and Comparative Example 1. Each panelist took each composition in their hands, then applied it to their face to evaluate the non-sticky feeling after application, and rated it from 1 (non-sticky) to 5 (very sticky). The composition according to Example 2 was used as a standard, with a rating of 3. Then, the results were averaged. The results are shown in Table 1. [Example 5]

[0229] The following composition according to Example 5, shown in Table 2, was prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 2. The numerical values ​​of the amounts of the components shown in Table 2 are all based on the "% by weight" of raw materials, unless otherwise indicated (AM: active ingredient).

[0230] [Table 2]

[0231] [Tables2] Ingredients Ex. 5 Pentylene glycol 1,3 Butylene glycol 1,7 Acetyl hexapeptide-8*1 0.001 MA Diaminobutyroyl dipeptide benzylamide diacetate*2 0.005 MA PEG / PPG / polybutylene glycol-8 / 5 / 3 glycerin 3 Methyl gluceth-20 2 Niacinamide 5 Gluconolactone 5 pH adjusting agent qs pH = 5 Salicylic acid 0.2 Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.3 Ethanol 3 Preservative qs Water qsp 100

[0232] * 1: ARGIRELINE® AMPLIFIED PEPTIDE SOLUTION (LIPOTEC)

[0233] *2: SYN®-AKE (DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS)

[0234] The composition according to Example 5 is stable and can be stored safely, even in heat or for a prolonged period, for example from summer to winter.

[0235] Furthermore, the composition according to Example 5 can provide an excellent feel, such as a less sticky feel during and / or after application of the composition.

Claims

Claims ^Claim 1] A composition comprising: (a) at least one first compound selected from polyhydroxy acids and their salts; (b) at least one second compound selected from [3-hydroxy acids among which salicylic acid and its derivatives, and their salts may be mentioned; (c) at least one peptide; and (d) at least one polyol. ^Claim 2] A composition according to claim 1, wherein the (a) first compound is in the form of a lactone. ^Claim 3] A composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the (a) first compound is gluconolactone.^Claim 4] A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the (b) second compound is salicylic acid and its derivatives represented by the following formula (I): - where R4 represents a saturated aliphatic group or an alkenyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms; - R3 represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched aliphatic hydrocarbon chain having from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally containing one or more substituents.

5. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the (b) second compound is salicylic acid.

6. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the (c) peptide is selected from the group consisting of acetyl hexapeptide-8, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, and a mixture thereof.

7. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the (d) polyol is selected from glycols, preferably selected from the group consisting of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from the group consisting of butylene glycol, pentylene glycol and a mixture thereof.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, in which the amount of the (d) polyol(s) in the composition is from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the composition does not comprise an α-hydroxy acid.

10. Cosmetic process for treating a keratinous substance, preferably for treating the skin, and more preferably for exfoliating the skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 to the keratinous substance.