CARE COMPOSITION OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS AND MASK COMPRISING IT
A hydrogel composition using Sphingomonas ferment extract, carrageenan, and non-ionic polysaccharides addresses the rigidity and sustainability issues of existing masks, offering a soft and adherent solution for facial care.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2024004097
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2024-03-20
- Filing Date
- 2024-04-19
- Publication Date
- 2025-09-26
- Estimated Expiration
- 2034-04-19
AI Technical Summary
Existing hydrogel compositions used in sheet masks are too rigid and difficult to conform to the shape of the face, lacking softness and skin affinity, and there is a need for more sustainable, environmentally friendly ingredients.
A composition comprising Sphingomonas ferment extract, carrageenan, and non-ionic polysaccharides such as glucomannan and xanthan gum, which provides softness and good skin affinity, while using renewable plant-derived materials.
The composition achieves a soft and adherent mask suitable for the face, with improved skin affinity and environmental sustainability.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: COMPOSITION FOR CARE OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS AND MASK COMPRISING IT Technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition and a mask containing it. In particular, the present invention relates to a composition for caring for keratinous materials, and a mask comprising it. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratinous materials. STATE OF THE ART
[0002] Hydrogel is a kind of solid gel comprising different kinds of polymers, which is capable of holding a large amount of water. The technology is widely used as a kind of medical dressing to provide the effect of soothing or healing a wound. In the cosmetic field, hydrogel can be used as a kind of substrate in the form of a sheet mask.
[0003] To be strong enough as a sheet mask, the normal method is to increase the concentration of the polymer.
[0004] However, when the concentration of the polymer is increased, the resulting hydrogel becomes more rigid and is difficult to bend and adjust to the shape of the face. It may be acceptable to use it as a zonal patch such as an eye patch or an anti-acne patch, but it cannot be used as a full face mask or for other parts of the body.
[0005] It is desirable to have a composition having a softness suitable for the entire face or other parts of the body.
[0006] It is also desirable that the composition has a good affinity for adhering to the skin.
[0007] Therefore, it is necessary to develop a composition that is gentle and has good affinity with the skin.
[0008] Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, which are designed and developed with environmental issues in mind, is becoming a major objective in an effort to address global challenges.
[0009] It is therefore essential to offer more sustainable compositions and ingredients to address these environmental concerns.
[0010] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or materials with a good carbon index. natural and / or materials of natural origin and, more particularly, materials of plant origin while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin. Summary of the invention
[0011] An object of the present invention is to provide a composition which is mild and has good affinity with keratinous materials.
[0012] Another object of the present invention is to provide a mask which is gentle and has good affinity with keratinous materials.
[0013] A third object of the present invention is to provide a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratinous materials.
[0014] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention provides a composition, preferably for caring for keratinous materials, comprising: i. at least one sphingomonas ferment extract; ii. at least one carrageenan; and iii. at least one non-ionic polysaccharide chosen from homopolymers of mannose, copolymers of mannose and glucose, copolymers of mannose and galactose, and a combination thereof.
[0015] The composition according to the present invention is soft and has good affinity with keratinous materials.
[0016] The composition according to the present invention is suitable for a mask, in particular for care masks for keratinous materials.
[0017] According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a mask, preferably care of keratinous materials, including: A. a cotton mask fabric, and B. the composition according to the present invention on the wadding fabric for mask.
[0018] The composition and the mask according to the present invention can be used for the care of keratinous materials.
[0019] According to a third aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition or mask according to the present invention to the keratinous materials.
[0020] Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present invention will appear even more clearly upon reading the detailed description and the examples which follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0021] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "keratinous material" is intended to cover the skin. Facial skin and the skin around the eyes are particularly considered according to the present invention.
[0022] The composition according to the present invention comprises: i. at least one sphingomonas ferment extract; ii. at least one carrageenan; and iii. at least one non-ionic polysaccharide chosen from homopolymers of mannose, copolymers of mannose and glucose, copolymers of mannose and galactose, and a combination thereof. Sphingomonas ferment extract
[0023] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one Sphingomonas ferment extract.
[0024] Sphingomonas ferment extract is the extract of the product obtained by the fermentation of Sphingomonas. It is known to contain glycosphingolipids (GSL) such as seramide, dihydrosphingosine and glucuronic acid, and is valued for its reduction of lipid peroxidation and the functioning of key biomarkers of senescence, thus preventing skin aging.
[0025] The extracts according to the invention can be prepared by any conventional method well known to those skilled in the art. These methods generally comprise a fermentation, isolation, separation and purification step.
[0026] The bacterium of the genus Sphingomonas is generally cultured in a suitable medium and grown to a desired density. The bacteria themselves can be concentrated by any known method, such as centrifugation. The concentrated bacteria can then be used directly as a crude preparation, or additional processing steps, well known to those skilled in the art, can be carried out, such as lyophilization, dehydration, filtration, purification, freezing optionally followed by thawing, sterilization, column chromatography, grinding, etc.
[0027] Preferably, the bacterial extract is a lysate of bacteria comprising in particular the compounds included in the bacteria, and therefore present in the bacterial pellet of the bacterial culture after centrifugation. Preferably, the bacterial extract is a lysate of bacteria comprising the intracellular medium and / or the constituent elements of the cell walls and / or membranes.
[0028] A lysate commonly refers to a material obtained at the end of the destruction or dissolution of biological cells by a phenomenon called cell lysis, thus causing the release of intracellular biological constituents naturally contained in the cells of the microorganism in question.
[0029] For the purposes of the present invention, the term lysate is used indifferently to designate the whole of the lysate obtained by lysis of the microorganism concerned or only a fraction of the latter.
[0030] The lysate used is therefore formed in whole or in part from intracellular biological constituents and constituents of cell walls and membranes.
[0031] This cell lysis can be carried out using different technologies, such as for example osmotic shock, thermal shock such as freezing optionally followed by thawing, by ultrasound, or under mechanical stress such as centrifugation, for example.
[0032] Preferably, the lysate used in the context of the present invention is obtained by a method comprising the following steps: i. a centrifugation step; ii. a pellet recovery step; iii. a step of freezing the pellet; iv. a step of thawing the pellet; v. optionally, a sterilization step by autoclaving, in particular at 121°C.
[0033] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the bacterial extract comprises an inactivated bacterium.
[0034] Here, "inactivated" has the meaning commonly used by those skilled in the art, i.e., the suppression of the activity of the bacteria under the effect of various causes (heat, chemical, mechanical, enzymatic substances). The bacteria is preferably inactivated by heat, more preferably by autoclaving.
[0035] Preferably, the bacterium of the extract according to the invention is Sphingomonas xenophaga. In a more preferred embodiment, the bacterium is a Sphingomonas xenophaga registered in accordance with the Budapest Treaty, on November 21, 2019, with the National Collection of Cultures of Microorganisms ((CNCM), Paris, France) under number CNCM 1-5455 by L'Oréal, 101 Avenue Gustave Eiffel, 37390 Notre Dame d'Oé.
[0036] As examples of commercial products of Sphingomonas ferment extract useful in the composition according to the present invention, mention may be made of that sold under the name MEXORYL® SDT by the company NOVEAL.
[0037] Advantageously, the Sphingomonas ferment extract is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.0001% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.0003% by weight to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.0005% by weight to 1% by weight, even more preferably from 0.008% by weight to 0.5% by weight, most preferably from 0.001% by weight to 0.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Carrageenan
[0038] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one carrageenan.
[0039] Carrageenans are sulfated polysaccharides that constitute the cell walls of various red algae, from which they can be obtained. Among these red algae, mention may be made, but are not limited to, Kappaphycus alvarezii, Eucheuma denticulatum, Eucheuma spinosum, Chondrus crispus, Betaphycus gelatinum, Gigartina skottsbergii, Gigartina canaliculata, Sarcothalia crispata, Mazzaella laminaroides, Hypnea musciformis, Mastocarpus stellatus and Irea cordata.
[0040] Carrageenans comprise long galactan chains formed by disaccharide units. These polysaccharides are composed of alternating (1—>3) [3-D-galactopyranose (G unit) and (1 —>4) a-galactopyranose (D unit) or 3,6-anhydro-a-galactopyranose (AnGal unit). Each sugar unit can be sulfated one or more times in the 2, 3, 4 or 6 position. Methyl and pyruvic acid groups, as well as other sugar units, can also be found grafted onto the basic structures described above. Carrageenans were first subdivided into subfamilies based on their solubility in KCl, then according to the number and position of sulfate groups and the presence of 3', 6'-anhydro bridges on galactopyranosyl residues. At least 15 carrageenans are listed, the structure of which depends on the original seaweed and the extraction process.Among the most common are the following carrageenans: q-carrageenan ((1—>3) [3-D-galactopyranose-4-sulfate-( 1 —>4)-aD-galactopyranose-6-sulfate), K-carrageenan ((1—>3) [3-D-galactopyranose-4-sulfate-(l—>4) 3,6- anhydro-aD-galactopyranose ), v-carrageenan ((1—>3) [3-D-galactopyranose-4-sulfate-( 1 —>4)- aD-galactopyranose-2,6-disulfate), r-carrageenan ((1—>3) [3-D-galactopyranose-4-sulfate- (1—>4) 3,6-anhydro-aD-galactopyranose-2-sulfatesulfate)), [3-D-galactopyranose-2-sulfate-(1—>4) 3,6-anhydro-aD-galactopyranose-2-sulfate, ^-carrageenan ((1—>3) [3-D-galactopyranose-2-sulfate-(l—>4) 3,6-anhydro-aD-galactopyranose-2-sulfate.
[0041] These carrageenans can be obtained in the form of mixtures of different structures such as, in a non-limiting manner, mixtures of the forms k[3, kt and Kq.
[0042] The carrageenans are preferably chosen from carrageenans of type q, K, v, r or X, and their mixtures in all proportions, preferably of type K.
[0043] The carrageenans of the present invention may be used in acid form or in salified form. Acceptable salts which may be cited in a non-limiting manner include lithium, sodium, potassium, calcium, zinc and ammonium salts or salts obtained with an organic base counterion, such as a primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine (C1-C6), in particular triethylamine or butylamine. This primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine may comprise one or more nitrogen and / or oxygen atoms and may thus comprise, for example, one or more alcohol functions; in particular, amino-2-methyl-2-propanol, triethanolamine and dimethylamino-2-propanol may be mentioned. Lysine or 3-(dimethylamino)propylamine may also be mentioned. These sulfated polysaccharides may also comprise a mixture of counterions among those defined above in a non-limiting manner.
[0044] Preferably, the weight average molecular weight of the carrageenans useful for the present invention is from 300 to 100,000,000 g / mol, more preferably from 10,000 to 10,000,000 g / mol.
[0045] The sulfur content (counted by SO42) of the carrageenans is preferably between 5% and 40% (calculated on a weight basis relative to the total weight of the carrageenan), more preferably between 7% and 25%, and even more preferably between 15% and 20%.
[0046] Preferably, the carrageenans used in the invention mainly comprise the K form or are in the K form. The term "mainly" means that the percentage of this type of chain in the composition of the product is greater than or equal to 50%, this proportion possibly being greater than or equal to 80% in certain embodiments. These carrageenans may be those sold under the names CARRAGEENAN BLK1120 by the company BLG.
[0047] Advantageously, the carrageenan is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.005% by weight to 6% by weight, preferably from 0.01% by weight to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.02% by weight to 1% by weight, even more preferably from 0.03% by weight to 0.5% by weight, most preferably from 0.05% by weight to 0.3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Non-ionic polysaccharides
[0048] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one non-ionic polysaccharide chosen from homopolymers of mannose, copolymers of mannose and glucose, copolymers of mannose and galactose, and one of their combinations.
[0049] Preferably, homopolymers indicate polymers with a polymer degree between 2 and 6.
[0050] Preferably, the copolymers indicate polymers with a number average molecular weight of 10,000 to 2,000,000 g / mol, preferably 20,000 to 1,000,000 g / mol, more preferably 50,000 to 500,000 g / mol.
[0051] Preferably, the non-ionic polysaccharide is chosen from mannan, glucomannan, galactomannan, and one of their combinations.
[0052] Gums comprising mannan, glucomannan, galactomannan, or a combination thereof may also be used as the non-ionic polysaccharide in the composition of the present invention.
[0053] Thus, preferably, the non-ionic polysaccharide is chosen from mannan, glucomannan, galactomannan, konjac gum, Bletilla striata gum, guar gum, fenugreek gum, sesbania gum, locust bean gum, cassia gum and a combination thereof.
[0054] More preferably, the non-ionic polysaccharide is chosen from glucomannan, konjac gum, Bletilla striata gum and one of their combinations.
[0055] As examples of commercial glucomannan products useful in the composition according to the present invention, mention may be made of those sold under the name KONJAC GEL CKAA1220 by the company XieLi, and those sold under the name KONJAC FLOUR HWG1002 by the company BLG.
[0056] Advantageously, the non-ionic polysaccharide is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.02% by weight to 6% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% by weight to 1.5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 0.8% by weight, most preferably from 0.15% by weight to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0057] Preferably, the total amount of carrageenan and non-ionic polysaccharide in the composition of the present invention is from 0.05% by weight to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% by weight to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Ionic polysaccharide different from carrageenan
[0058] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises one or more ionic polysaccharides other than carrageenan.
[0059] Preferably, the ionic polysaccharide other than carrageenan is selected from xanthan gum, gellan gum and a combination thereof.
[0060] Xanthan is a heteropolysaccharide produced by aerobic fermentation of the bacterium Xanthomonas campestris. Its structure consists of a main chain of [3-D-glucoses [3(1,4)-linked, similar to cellulose. Every second glucose molecule carries a trisaccharide side chain composed of a [3-D-mannose, a [3-D-glucuronic acid and a terminal [3-D-mannose. The internal mannose residue is usually acetylated on carbon 6. About 30% of the terminal mannose residues carry a pyruvate group linked in chelated form between carbons 4 and 6. Charged glucuronic acids and pyruvic acids are ionizable and are therefore responsible for the anionic nature of xanthan (negative charge up to a pH equal to 1). These groups can be neutralized in commercial products with Na+, K+ or Ca2+ ions (Satia company, 1986). The neutralized form can be converted to the acid form by ion exchange or by dialysis of an acid solution.
[0061] Gellan gum has a recurring tetrasaccharide structure composed of (glucose-glucuronic acid-glucose-rhamose) units.
[0062] The partial structure of gellan gum is as follows:
[0063] -4)-L-Rhap-(al-3)-D-Glcp-([3-l-4)-D-GlcpA-([3-l-4)-D-Glcp-([3-l-.
[0064] The inventors have discovered that the presence of the ionic polysaccharide other than carrageenan selected from xanthan gum, gellan gum and a combination thereof, is also beneficial to the softness of the composition.
[0065] Advantageously, the ionic polysaccharide other than carrageenan is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.03% by weight to 6% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% by weight to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 2% by weight, most preferably from 0.15% by weight to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Surfactants
[0066] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises one or more surfactants chosen from polyglyceryl esters of fatty acid with a sugar moiety.
[0067] Preferably, the polyglyceryl moiety is derived from 2 to 10 glycerol units.
[0068] Preferably, the fatty acid is chosen from C12-C22 fatty acids.
[0069] The fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may be selected from the group consisting of PG2 laurate, PG2 dilaurate, PG2 trilaurate, PG2 myristate, PG2 dimyristate, PG2 trimyristate, PG2 palmitate, PG2 dipalmitate, PG2 tripalmitate, PG2 stearate, PG2 distearate, PG2 tristearate, PG2 isostearate, PG2 diisostearate, PG2 triisostearate, PG2 oleate, PG2 dioleate, PG2 trioleate, PG3 laurate, PG3 dilaurate, PG3 trilaurate, PG3 myristate, PG3 dimyristate, PG3 trimyristate, PG3 palmitate, PG3 dipalmitate, PG3 tripalmitate, PG3 stearate, PG3 distearate, PG3 tristearate, PG3 isostearate, PG3 diisostearate, PG3 triisostearate, PG3 oleate, PG3 dioleate, PG3 trioleate, PG4 laurate, PG4 dilaurate, PG4 trilaurate, PG4 myristate, PG4 dimyristate, PG4 trimyristate, PG4 palmitate, PG4 dipalmitate, PG4 tripalmitate, PG4 stearate, PG4 distearate, PG4 tristearate, PG4 isostearate, PG4 diisostearate, PG4 triisostearate, PG4 oleate, PG4 dioleate, PG4 trioleate, PG5 laurate, PG5 dilaurate, PG5 trilaurate,PG5 myristate, PG5 dimyristate, PG5 trimyristate, PG5 palmitate, PG5 dipalmitate, PG5 tripalmitate, PG5 stearate, PG5 distearate, PG5 Tristearate, PG5 isostearate, PG5 diisostearate, PG5 triisostearate, PG5 oleate, PG5 dioleate, PG5 trioleate, PG6 laurate, PG6 dilaurate, , PG6 trilaurate, PG6 myristate, PG6 dimyristate, PG6 trimyristate, PG6 palmitate, PG6 dipalmitate, PG6 tripalmitate, PG6 stearate, PG6 distearate, PG6 tristearate, PG6 isostearate, PG6 distearate, PG6 triisostearate, PG6 oleate, PG6 dioleate, PG6 trioleate, PG 10 laurate, PG 10 dilaurate, PG 10 trilaurate, PG 10 myristate, PG 10 dimyristate, PG 10 trimyristate, PG 10 palmitate, PG 10 dipalmitate, PG 10 tripalmitate, PG10 stearate, PG10 distearate, PG10 tristearate, PG10 isostearate, PG10 desostearate, PG10 triisostearate, PG10 oleate, PG10 dioleate and PG10 trioleate.
[0070] Preferably, the sugar fraction is derived from sucrose, maltose, glucose, fructose or methylglucose.
[0071] Thus, preferably, the surfactant is chosen from C10-C22 fatty acid polyglyceryl esters with a sugar moiety derived from sucrose, maltose, glucose, fructose or methylglucose, preferably the polyglyceryl moiety is derived from 2 to 10 glycerol units.
[0072] More preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate.
[0073] Advantageously, the surfactant chosen from polyglyceryl esters of fatty acid with a sugar fraction is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.02% by weight to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.03% by weight to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous phase
[0074] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises an aqueous phase.
[0075] Preferably, said aqueous phase comprises water.
[0076] Advantageously, water is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 60% by weight to 99% by weight, preferably from 65% by weight to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0077] Preferably, the aqueous phase comprises a water-miscible organic solvent (at room temperature of 25°C) chosen from ethanol and polyols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferentially having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and one of their combinations, such as glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; and one of their combinations.
[0078] Preferably, the water-miscible organic solvent, in particular glycerin, is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.5% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0079] Advantageously, the aqueous phase is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 60% by weight to 99.5% by weight, preferably from 65% by weight to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0080] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is oil-free.
[0081] The term "oil" refers to a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature. ambient (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013*105Pa).
[0082] As used herein, the term "oil-free" indicates that the amount of oil in the composition of the present invention is less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition of the present invention. Additional cosmetic active ingredients
[0083] Depending on the final objective, the composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more additional cosmetic active ingredients.
[0084] It is easy for the person skilled in the art to adjust the amount of additional cosmetic active ingredients depending on the final use of the composition according to the present invention. Additional adjuvants or additives
[0085] The composition of the present invention may comprise additional conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for example, perfumes, chelating agents, pH adjusting agents, and mixtures thereof.
[0086] The person skilled in the art can choose the amount of additional adjuvants or additives so that it does not negatively impact the end use of the composition according to the present invention.
[0087] According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a composition in the form of a hydrogel, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition, i. from 0.001% by weight to 0.2% by weight of Sphingomonas ferment extract; ii. from 0.03% by weight to 0.5% by weight of carrageenan; and iii. from 0.1% by weight to 0.8% by weight of a non-ionic polysaccharide selected from glucomannan, konjac gum, Bletilla striata gum and a combination thereof.
[0088] The composition according to the present invention is intended to be used in combination with a mask wadding fabric, preferably a water-insoluble wadding fabric.
[0089] For the purposes of the invention, the expression "water-insoluble" means that the mask wadding fabric is not soluble in water and does not disintegrate upon immersion in water.
[0090] The person skilled in the art can select a suitable mask fleece and the weight ratio of the mask fleece used to the composition according to the present invention based on the nature of the composition.
[0091] The mask fleece fabric may be a woven, knitted or non-woven fabric made of natural fibers such as cotton, pulp, bamboo and cellulose fibers, semi-natural fibers such as viscose rayon fibers and synthetic fibers such as polyester fibers, polyethylene terephthalate fibers, polyethylene fibers and polypropylene fibers. Two or more fibers selected from the above fibers may be used in combination.
[0092] The mask wadding fabric may consist of one or more layers. If a multi-layer wadding fabric is used, the material of each layer may be the same or different from the others. The multi-layer wadding fabric may be prepared by laminating multiple layers made from the materials mentioned above.
[0093] The mask fleece fabric can have a wide variety of shapes, depending on the desired use and the characteristic of the mask.
[0094] The mask batting is typically designed to conform to the area of skin to which topical application is desired. For example, when the mask is applied to the face, the mask batting is designed to match the shape of the face, avoiding, if necessary, the eye, nostril, and mouth areas.
[0095] The person skilled in the art can determine the thickness and texture of the mask fleece fabric depending on the intended use.
[0096] Thus, according to the second aspect, the present invention provides a mask, preferably for the care of keratinous materials, comprising: A. a cotton mask fabric, and B. the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention on the fleece fabric for mask. Preparation and use
[0097] The composition and mask according to the present invention can be prepared by routine practice.
[0098] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is in the form of a hydrogel.
[0099] The composition and the mask according to the present invention are intended for topical application and can be used in particular for the care of keratinous materials, and in particular human skin.
[0100] According to the third aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition or mask according to the present invention to the keratinous materials.
[0101] In particular, the keratinous materials are the skin of the face and / or the skin around the eyes.
[0102] The present invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples described below, which are given by way of non-limiting illustrations. EXAMPLES
[0103] The main raw materials used, their trade names and their suppliers are listed in Table 1.
[0104] [Tables 1] INCI Name Trade Name Supplier Sphingomonas ferment extract (Sphingomonas ferment ex tract) MEXORYL®SDT NOVEAL Carrageenan (Carrageenan) CARRAGEENAN BL Kl 120 BLG Glucomannan (Glucomannan) KONJAC FLOUR H WG 1002 BLG Xanthan gum (Xanthan gum ) KELTROL® CG-T CP KELCO Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate (Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate) TEGO® CARE 450 MB EVONIK GOLDSCHMI DT
[0105] Inventive Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-3
[0106] The compositions of Inventive Examples (EI) 1-3 and Comparative Examples (CE) 1-3 were prepared according to the amounts of components given in Table 2. The amount of each component is given in % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated as active ingredient (AI).
[0107] [Tables2] Components El. 1 DI 2 DI 3 EC. 1 EC. 2 CE. 3 Sphingomonas ferment extract (Sphin gomonas ferment extract) 0.088 (MA) 0.031 (MA) 0.004 (MA) 0 0 0.031 (MA) Carrageenan (Carrageen an) 0.12 0.12 0.12 0.12 0.8 0 Glucomannan (Glucoma nnan) 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.15 0.2 Xanthan gum (Xanth an gum) 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.2 0.4 Glycerin (Glycerin) 7 7 7 7 10 7 Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate (Polygly ceryl-3 methylglucose dis tearate) 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Water QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS 100
[0108] The compositions of inventive examples 1 to 3 represent the compositions of the present invention.
[0109] The compositions of comparative examples 1 and 2 do not comprise at least one Sphingomonas ferment extract.
[0110] The composition of Comparative Example 3 does not include carrageenan. Preparation of the compositions
[0111] The above compositions were prepared as follows: 1. preparation of phase A: mixing carrageenan (if present), glucomannan and xanthan gum in glycerin with stirring to obtain a mixture, introduction of the mixture into water at 80 #C with stirring for 30 minutes; 2. introduction of the sphingomonas ferment extract (if present) into phase A at 80 #C with stirring for 5 minutes to obtain the compositions. Preparing the masks
[0112] 30 g of each composition of inventive examples (E1) 1-3 and examples Comparative (EC) 1-3 were weighed and coated onto 1 g of a fabric made from cellulose using a coating machine to obtain a mask. Assessment
[0113] The softness of each composition obtained and its affinity with the skin were evaluated. Candy
[0114] The softness of the compositions of Inventive Examples (EI) 1-3 and Comparative Examples (CE) 1 to 3 was characterized by the gel strength when tested with a texture analyzer called Stable Micro Systems TA.XT Plus available from Lotun Science as follows.
[0115] A sample at a temperature of 80°C was poured into a cylinder with a diameter of 68 mm and a height of 25 mm in an amount sufficient to form a smooth and homogeneous surface without defects. The sample was allowed to coagulate in the cylinder at room temperature overnight. The tests were then carried out in accordance with the manufacturer's specifications under the following conditions: Test mode: compression Pre-test speed: 1 mm / s Test speed: 2 mm / s Post-test speed: 10 mm / s Target mode: distance Strength: 100 g Penetration Distance: 8 mm Trigger Type: Auto (Force) Trigger Force: 5 g
[0116] The force at 8 mm was read as the gel strength for each sample. The gel strength results of each composition tested were listed in Table 3.
[0117] The gel strength value is presented as "g". The lower the gel strength, the softer the composition. A gel strength of less than 200 g is acceptable. Affinity
[0118] The affinity of the compositions of Inventive Examples (EI) 1-3 and Comparative Examples (CE) 1-3 with the skin was evaluated as follows.
[0119] 20 volunteers were asked to apply masks containing the composition to the test on their face with the composition in contact with the face and performed the following movements while leaving the mask attached: a. blink 10 times; b. moving the eyes to the right, to the left, clockwise, counterclockwise, each time 3 times; c. mouth movement while saying “e”, “i”, “u”, each time 3 times; d. downward facial movement 3 times; e. movement of the face to the right on 45# then to the left on 45#, each time 3 times.
[0120] Then, the skin affinity score of the test composition was provided by the volunteers according to the following standard and averaged:
[0121] 0-1: peels off the skin of the face over more than 50% of the surface
[0122] 1-2: peels off the skin of the face on 30 to 50% of the surface
[0123] 2-3: slightly peels off the skin of the face over 20 to 30% of the surface
[0124] 3-4: slightly peels off the skin of the face over 10 to 20% of the surface
[0125] 4-5: peels very slightly from the skin of the face on 5 to 10% of the surface
[0126] 5-6: hardly peels off the skin of the face, peeling on 0 to 5% of the surface.
[0127] The gel strength of the compositions of Inventive Examples (EI) 1-3 and Comparative Examples (CE) 1-3 obtained and their affinity with skin were listed in Table 3.
[0128] [Tables3] Properties ELI EL 2 EL 3 EC. 1 EC. 2 EC. 3 Gel strength (g) 180 140 190 300 560 90 Affinity 5.2 5.8 5.7 3.1 1.2 ND
[0129] ND: not evaluated because the composition is too dry to be fixed on the skin.
[0130] It can be seen that each composition of the examples of the invention has a gel strength value of less than 200, and the affinity score of each example of the invention is greater than 5, which means that the compositions of the examples of the invention are mild and have good affinity with the skin.
Claims
Claims
1. Composition, preferably for caring for keratinous materials, comprising: (i) at least one sphingomonas ferment extract; (ii) at least one carrageenan; and (iii) at least one non-ionic polysaccharide chosen from mannose homopolymers, mannose and glucose copolymers, mannose and galactose copolymers, and one of their combinations.
2. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the carrageenan is selected from carrageenans of type q, K, v, r or X, and mixtures thereof in all proportions, preferably carrageenan of type K.
3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2, the non-ionic polysaccharide being chosen from mannan, glucomannan, galactomannan, konjac gum, Bletilla striata gum, guar gum, fenugreek gum, sesbania gum, locust bean gum, cas sia gum, and a combination thereof, more preferably, the non-ionic polysaccharide being chosen from glucomannan, konjac gum, Bletilla striata gum, and a combination thereof.
4. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the total amount of carrageenan and non-ionic polysaccharide in the composition is from 0.05% by weight to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% by weight to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
5. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, further comprising one or more surfactants selected from fatty acid polyglyceryl esters with a sugar moiety, the surfactant is preferably selected from C10-C22 fatty acid polyglyceryl esters with a sugar moiety derived from sucrose, maltose, glucose, fructose or methylglucose, more preferably the polyglyceryl moiety is derived from 2 to 10 glycerol units, even more preferably the surfactant is polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, preferably the surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 2 % by weight, preferably from 0.02% by weight to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.03% by weight to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, which is oil-free.
7. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, which is in hydrogel form.
8. A composition according to claim 1, which is in the form of a hydrogel comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition, (i) from 0.001% by weight to 0.2% by weight of Sphingomonas ferment extract; (ii) from 0.03% by weight to 0.5% by weight of carrageenan; and (iii) from 0.1% by weight to 0.8% by weight of a non-ionic polysaccharide selected from glucomannan, konjac gum, Bletilla striata gum and a combination thereof.
9. Mask, preferably for the care of keratinous materials, comprising: A) a cotton fabric for mask; and B) the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 on the cotton fabric for mask.
10. Non-therapeutic method for caring for keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 or of the mask according to claim 9 to the keratinous materials.