COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION AND USE OF THE COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION
The cosmetic sunscreen composition addresses the need for high SPF, good sensory attributes, and stability by combining fatty compounds, carnauba wax, fillers, and UV filters, achieving effective and eco-friendly UV protection with a lightweight texture.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2024006144
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2024-03-28
- Filing Date
- 2024-06-11
- Publication Date
- 2025-10-03
- Estimated Expiration
- 2034-06-11
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic sunscreens fail to provide high SPF, good sensory attributes, easy spreading, and stability while maintaining a fluid/lightweight texture and using eco-friendly ingredients, which are crucial for effective photoprotection against UV radiation.
A cosmetic sunscreen composition comprising fatty compounds, Copemicia cerifera (carnauba) wax, fillers, surfactants, and a UV filter system, optimized in specific weight percentages to achieve a fluid/lightweight form with high SPF, good sensory properties, and stability.
The composition provides effective UV protection with a high SPF, excellent sensory perception, and stability, ensuring broad-spectrum photoprotection against UVA/UVB rays, while maintaining a non-greasy feel and using eco-friendly ingredients.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION AND USE OF THE COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION FIELD OF THE INVENTION
[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic sunscreen composition comprising (a) at least one fatty compound, (b) Copemicia cerifera (carnauba) wax, (c) at least one filler, (d) at least one surfactant and (e) a UV filter system. The present invention also relates to a process for manufacturing the cosmetic sunscreen composition and its use. CONTEXT OF THE INVENTION
[0002] Photoprotection of keratinous materials, including skin and hair, is considered of great importance in order to provide protection against sun damage, sunburn, photoaging, as well as to reduce the risks of developing skin cancer caused by exposure to ultraviolet ("UV") radiation. There are generally two types of UVA / UVB sunscreen compositions used to accomplish photoprotection, namely inorganic UV filters and organic UV filters.
[0003] Consumers are concerned about the negative effects of sun exposure, particularly the dangerous effects of exposure to ultraviolet (“UV”) rays. Prolonged exposure to sunlight results in damage to the skin, such as sunburn. When the skin is exposed to UV rays having a wavelength of about 290 nm to about 400 nm, long-term damage can lead to serious conditions, such as skin cancer. UV light also contributes to aging by causing the formation of free radicals in the skin. Free radicals include, for example, singlet oxygen, hydroxyl radical, superoxide anion, nitric oxide, and hydrogen radicals. Free radicals attack DNA, membrane lipids, and proteins, generating carbon radicals.These in turn react with oxygen to produce a peroxyl radical that can attack adjacent fatty acids to generate new carbon radicals. This cascade leads to a chain reaction producing lipid peroxidation products. Damage to the cell membrane results in a loss of cellular permeability, an increase in intercellular ion concentration, and a decreased ability to excrete or detoxify waste. The end result is a loss of skin elasticity and the appearance of wrinkles. This process is commonly referred to as photoaging.
[0004] In this sense, in a skin care ritual, consumers apply cosmetic sunscreen compositions to protect the skin and the perception of the product on the skin is very important.
[0005] Consumers are increasingly looking for fluid / light textures of cosmetic sunscreen that fit their photoprotection range, while protecting the skin with a high degree of UV protection (UVA / UVB).
[0006] The degree of UV protection of a cosmetic sunscreen composition is directly linked to the quantity and type of UV filters it contains. The higher the quantity of UV filters, the higher the degree of UV protection (UVA / UVB).
[0007] In particular, sunscreen compositions must provide good protection from the sun, one measure of which is the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) value, while exhibiting a satisfactory, but non-greasy, sensory perception upon application.
[0008] For said reasons, there is a need to develop new fluid / lightweight cosmetic sunscreen compositions having the following properties: exhibiting high stability, comprising eco-friendly ingredients, having good sensory properties, exhibiting good absorption and spreadability, and providing a high sun protection factor.
[0009] The inventors of the present invention have overcome the disadvantages of the prior art and unexpectedly obtained a fluid / lightweight sunscreen cosmetic composition comprising the above-mentioned properties, exhibiting high SPF, good sensory attributes, easy spreading, light film, eco-friendly ingredients and being stable, comprising: (a) at least one fatty compound, (b) Copemicia cerifera (camauba) wax, (c) at least one filler, (d) at least one surfactant and (e) a UV filter system. Summary of the invention
[0010] The present invention relates to a cosmetic sunscreen composition comprising (a) at least one fatty compound, (b) Copemicia cerifera (camauba) wax, (c) at least one filler, (d) at least one surfactant and (e) a UV filter system. The present invention also relates to the use of the cosmetic sunscreen composition as a daily sunscreen product.
[0011] Other features and advantages of the present invention will become apparent from the following more detailed description of desirable embodiments which illustrate, by way of example, the principles of the invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0012] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention comprises: a. at least one fatty compound selected from isopropyl myristate, diisopropyl sebacate, dicaprylyl carbonate, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, and mixtures thereof; b. a Copemicia cerifera (carnauba) wax; c. at least one filler selected from silica silylate, silica, perlite, and combinations thereof; d. at least one surfactant selected from stearic acid, glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate, potassium cetyl phosphate and combinations thereof; and e. a UV filter system.
[0013] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one fatty compound is present in the range of about 0.1% to about 20.0% by weight, preferably in an amount of about 0.5% to about 18.0%, most preferably in an amount of about 1.5% to about 16.0%, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0014] In a preferred embodiment, the Copemicia cerifera (carnauba) wax is present in the range of about 0.5% to about 10.0% by weight, preferably in an amount of about 1.25% to about 5.0%, most preferably in an amount of about 1.5% to about 2.5%, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0015] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one filler is present in the range of about 0.05% to 4.0% by weight, preferably in an amount of about 0.1% to about 3.0%, most preferably in an amount of about 0.2% to about 2.4%, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0016] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one surfactant is present in the range of about 0.05% to about 10.0% by weight, preferably in an amount of about 0.5% to about 3.0%, most preferably in an amount of about 0.5% to about 2.5%, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0017] In a preferred embodiment, the UV filter system is selected from ethylhexyltriazone, hexyl diethylaminohydroxybenzoylbenzoate, isotridecyl phosphate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenolmethoxyphenyltriazine, butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, drometrizole trisiloxane, ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyltriazone, homosalate, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, octocrylene, phenylbenzozimidazolesulfonic acid, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, trisodium ethylenediaminedisuccinate, and combinations thereof.
[0018] In a preferred embodiment, the UV filter system is present in the range of about 5.0% to about 25.0% by weight, preferably in an amount of about 7.5% to 17.5%, most preferably in an amount of about 10.0% to about 14.0%, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0019] The cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention is in a fluid / light form.
[0020] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention has a sun protection factor of at least 15, preferably at least 50.
[0021] In another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention further comprises cosmetically acceptable ingredients selected from additional sunscreens, perfume / fragrance, preservatives, solvents, active compounds, surfactants, fatty compounds, vitamins, fillers, silicones, polymers, pigments, a buffer, a masking agent and mixtures thereof.
[0022] In another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion and can be used as a daily sunscreen product. TERMS
[0023] The cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the invention described herein, as well as any of the additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein.
[0024] All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For example, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein may serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive a subrange, etc.
[0025] As used herein, the term "at least" means one or more and therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.
[0026] Except in the working examples, or unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and / or reaction conditions are understood to be modified in all cases by the term "about", meaning to within + / - 5% of the number indicated.
[0027] As used herein, all ranges provided are intended to include each specific range within the given ranges, as well as a combination of sub-ranges between the given ranges. Thus, a range of 1 to 5 specifically includes 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, as well as sub-ranges such as 2 to 5, 3 to 5, 2 to 3, 2 to 4, 1 to 4, etc. All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For example, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein may serve as a minimum or maximum value to infer a sub-range, etc. FATTY COMPOUNDS
[0028] In addition to the fatty compounds of the cosmetic sunscreen composition described above, the composition of the present invention may also comprise additional fatty compounds selected from oils, waxes, fatty acids, fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof. As used herein, the term "fatty compounds" does not include the carnauba wax described below.
[0029] The waxes useful for the present invention may be of mineral, fossil, animal or vegetable origin, hydrogenated oils or mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of waxes include hydrocarbon-based waxes such as beeswax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, Japan wax, cork fiber waxes or sugar cane waxes, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax, Montan wax, ozokerites, a synthetic wax, polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, hydrogenated oils and glycerides which are solid at 25°C. It is also possible to use silicone waxes, among which mention may be made of alkyl-, alkoxy- and / or polymethylsiloxane esters.
[0030] Oils that may be used in the invention include polar or slightly polar oils, i.e. oils including an alkyl chain, preferably a C3-C40 alkyl chain. Non-limiting examples of oils for use in the present invention include:
[0031] - linear or branched hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffin, isohexadecane, liquid petroleum jelly and light naphthalene oils, and lanolin, hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as glyceride triesters, which are generally triesters of fatty acids and glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have varying chain lengths of C4 to C24, these chains being able to be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched;These oils are in particular wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, pumpkin seed oil, pumpkin seed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, bancoul nut oil, passionflower oil and rosehip oil; or also caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, ;
[0032] - synthetic esters, for example oils of formula RCOOR' in which R represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain which is in particular branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R + R' is equal to >10, for example, cetearyl octanate, isopropyl palmitate, a Cn-Cis alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates, such as di(C12-C13 linear alkyl) tartrates, and also di(C|4 C|3 linear alkyl) tartrates. or acetates,
[0033] - silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), including optionally a C3-C40 alkyl or alkoxy chain or a phenyl chain, such as phenyl trimethicones, optionally fluorinated polyalkylmethylsiloxanes, such as polymethyltrifluoropropyldimethylsiloxanes, or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups; polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, fluorosilicones and perfluorinated oils;
[0034] - their mixtures.
[0035] Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols useful for the present invention are those which are liquid at room temperature, containing a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for example octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2-undecylpentadecanol.
[0036] Non-limiting examples of fatty acids useful for the present invention are higher C12-C22 fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid. CARNAUBA WAX
[0037] Carnauba wax is a hard wax scraped from the leaves and leaf stems of the carnauba palm, Copernicia cerifera. Carnauba wax comprises esters of C18-C32 fatty acids and C28-C34 alcohols, also containing large amounts of hydroxy acid esters and having melting points around 80 and 86 °C. SILICA AEROGEL (SILICA SILYLATE)
[0038] The “silica aerogel” according to the present invention is a porous material obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air. Silica aerogels are typically synthesized via a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction with a supercritical fluid, such as, but not limited to, supercritical carbon dioxide (CO2). This type of drying prevents shrinkage of the pores and material. The process sol-gel and the various drying processes are described in detail in Brinker, CJ, and Scherer, GW, Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academy Press, 1990.
[0039] The silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from about 500 to about 1500 m2 / g, or alternatively from about 600 to about 1200 m2 / g, or alternatively from about 600 to about 800 m2 / g, and a size, expressed as volume mean diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from about 1 to about 30 qm, or alternatively from about 5 to about 25 qm, or alternatively from about 5 to about 20 pm, or alternatively from about 5 to about 15 pm. The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined via the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) nitrogen absorption method described in Journal of the American Chemical Society, vol. 60, page 309, February 1938, corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794 / 1. The BET specific surface corresponds to the total specific surface of the particles considered.
[0040] The size of silica aerogel particles can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer, such as the Malvern MasterSizer 2000 machine. The data are processed based on Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is accurate for isotropic particles, allows for the determination of an "effective" particle diameter in the case of non-spherical particles. This theory is described in particular in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles", Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
[0041] The silica aerogel particles used in the present invention may advantageously have a density after tamping ranging from about 0.04 g / cm3 to about 0.10 g / cm3, or alternatively from about 0.05 g / cm3 to about 0.08 g / cm3. In the context of the present invention, this density, called density after tamping, may be evaluated according to the following protocol: 40 g of powder are poured into a graduated cylinder; the graduated cylinder is then placed on a Stampf Volumeter Stav 2003 machine; the graduated cylinder is then subjected to a series of 2500 tamping movements (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between two consecutive tests is less than 2%); the final volume Vf of tamped powder is then measured on the graduated cylinder. The density after compaction is determined by the ratio m / Vf, in this case 40 / Vf (Vf being expressed in cm3 and m in g).
[0042] According to one embodiment, the silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit volume Svallant of about 5 to about 60 m2 / cm3, or alternatively of about 10 to about 50 m2 / cm3, or alternatively of about 15 to about 40 m2 / cm3. The specific surface area per unit volume is given by the relationship: Sv = SM.r where r is the density after compaction expressed in g / cm3 and SM is the specific surface area per unit mass expressed in m2 / g, as defined above.
[0043] In certain embodiments, the silica aerogel particles according to the invention have an oil absorption capacity, measured at the wetting point, ranging from about 5 to about 18 ml / g, or alternatively from about 6 to about 15 ml / g, or alternatively from about 8 to about 12 ml / g. The oil absorption capacity measured at the wetting point, denoted Wp, corresponds to the quantity of water which must be added to 100 g of particles to obtain a homogeneous paste. Wp is measured according to the wetting point method or the method for determining the oil absorption of a powder described in standard NF T 30-022. Wp corresponds to the amount of oil adsorbed on the available surface of the powder and / or absorbed by the powder by measuring the wetting point, described below: An amount = 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate and the oil (isononyl isononanoate) is then added dropwise.After adding 4 to 5 drops of oil to the powder, mixing is carried out using a spatula, and the addition of oil is continued until a conglomerate of oil and powder forms. At this stage, the oil is added one drop at a time and the mixture is then triturated using the spatula. The addition of oil is stopped when a firm and smooth paste is obtained. This paste should be able to be spread on the glass plate without cracking or forming lumps. The volume Vs (expressed in ml) of oil used is then noted. The oil absorption corresponds to the ratio Vs / m. .
[0044] The aerogels used according to the present invention are hydrophobic silica aerogels, preferably silylated silica (INCI name: silica silylate). The term "hydrophobic silica" refers to any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example halogenated silanes, such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes, such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with Si-Rn silyl groups, for example trimethylsilyl groups. The preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that have been surface modified by silylation is found in U.S. Patent No. 7,470,725. In one embodiment, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface modified with trimethylsilyl groups are desirable.
[0045] Suitable examples of hydrophobic silica aerogels may include, but are not limited to, aerogels sold under the trade names VM-2260 (INCI name: Silica silylate) and VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate), both available from Dow Corning Corporation (Midland, Michigan). VM-2260 particles have an average particle size of about 1000 microns and a surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g. VM-2270 particles have an average particle size ranging from 5 to 15 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g. Another suitable example of a hydrophobic silica aerogel may include, but is not limited to, aerogels commercially available from Cabot Corporation (Billerica, Massachusetts) under the trade name Aerogel TLD 201, Aerogel OGD 201 and Aerogel TLD 203, Enova Aerogel MT 1100 and Enova Aerogel MT 1200.
[0046] The silica aerogel is preferably a hydrophobic silica aerogel, more preferably silica silylate. PERLITE PARTICLES
[0047] Perlite is a natural glass of volcanic origin, shiny black or light gray in color, resulting from the rapid cooling of lava, and which appears in the form of small particles resembling pearls.
[0048] The perlites which can be used according to the invention are generally aluminosilicates of volcanic origin and have the following composition:
[0049] 70.0 to 75.0% by weight of silica SIO2
[0050] 12.0 to 15.0% by weight of aluminum oxide AI2O3
[0051] 3.0 to 5.0% sodium oxide Na2O
[0052] 3.0 to 5.0% potassium oxide K2O
[0053] 0.5 to 2% iron oxide Fe2O3
[0054] 0.2 to 0.7% magnesium oxide MgO
[0055] 0.5 to 1.5% calcium oxide CaO
[0056] 0.05 to 0.15% titanium dioxide TIO2.
[0057] Preferably, the perlite particles used according to the invention will be in an expanded porous form.
[0058] The perlite is ground, dried, and then calibrated in a first step. The product obtained, called perlite ore, is gray in color and has a size of the order of 100 μm. The perlite ore is then expanded (1000 °C / 2 seconds) to give more or less white particles. When the temperature reaches 850-900 °C, the water trapped in the structure of the material evaporates and causes the material to expand, compared to its original volume. The expanded perlite particles according to the invention can be obtained via the expansion process described in US patent 5,002,698.
[0059] Preferably, the perlite particles used will be ground; in this case, they are known as expanded ground perlite (EMP).4
[0060] They preferably have a particle size defined by a median diameter D50 ranging from 0.5 to 50 pm and preferably from 0.5 to 40 pm.
[0061] Preferably, the perlite particles according to the invention have a particle size distribution such that at least 50% of the particles have a size less than 20 μm. In addition, they preferably have a particle size distribution such that 90% by weight of the particles have a size less than 55 μm and preferably a size less than 40 μm. It is further preferable that 90% by weight of the particles have a size greater than 5 μm.
[0062] Preferably, the perlite particles used have an apparent density at 25°C ranging from 10 to 400 kg / m3 (DIN 53468 standard) and preferably from 10 to 300 kg / m3.
[0063] In particular, expanded perlite particles sold under the trade names Optimat 1430 OR® and Optimat 2550® by the company World Minerais, or the commercial products GK-110 Thin® and GK-110 Extra Thin® by the company Langfang Xindazhong Filter and the company Henan Zhongnan Filter Aid will be used. SURFACTANTS
[0064] The cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may comprise one or more suitable surfactants.
[0065] Non-limiting examples of surfactants suitable for the present invention are as follows.
[0066] Anionic surfactants useful in the invention include, for example, carboxylates (sodium 2-(2-hydroxyalkyloxy)acetate), amino acid derivatives (N-acylglutamates, N-acylglycinates or acylsarcosinates), alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates and their oxyethylenated derivatives, sulfonates, isethionates and N-acyl isethionates, taurates and N-acyl N-methyltaurates, sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, phosphates and alkyl phosphates, anionic alkylpolyglycoside derivatives (acyl-D-galactoside uronate), and combinations thereof.
[0067] Non-limiting examples of non-ionic surfactants useful in the invention include, for example, oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) fatty acid esters of glycerol; inulin laurylcarbamate; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated) fatty acid esters; polyglyceryl-6 distearate (and) jojoba esters (and) cetyl alcohol (and) polyglyceryl-3 beeswax; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated) fatty alcohol ethers; sugar esters, for example, sucrose stearate; fatty alcohol ethers of sugars, in particular alkylpolyglucosides (APGs) such as decylglucoside and laurylglucoside, cetostearylglucoside optionally in admixture with cetostearyl alcohol, and also arachidylglucoside, for example in the form of a mixture of arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and arachidylglucoside. According to a method of particular embodiment of the invention, the mixture of the alkylpolyglucoside as defined above with the corresponding fatty alcohol may be in the form of a self-emulsifying composition. Mention may also be made of lecithins and derivatives (for example, Biophilique), sugar esters and sodium stearoyllactylate.
[0068] Non-limiting examples of fatty acids are selected from higher C12-C22 fatty acids, such as myristic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, and combinations thereof.
[0069] Non-limiting examples of cationic surfactants are those that may be positively charged. This surfactant may carry one or more permanent positive charges or may contain one or more functional groups that are cationizable in the composition according to the disclosure. The cationic surfactant(s) may also be selected from optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary, or tertiary fatty amines, or salts thereof, and quaternary ammonium salts, and combinations thereof. The fatty amines generally comprise at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain.
[0070] Preferred surfactants may be selected from stearic acid, glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate, potassium cetyl phosphate and combinations thereof. UV FILTER SYSTEM
[0071] The cosmetic composition of the present invention includes a UV filter system comprising at least one UV filter selected from ethylhexyltriazone, hexyl diethylaminohydroxybenzoylbenzoate, isotridecyl phosphate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenolmethoxyphenyltriazine, butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, drometrizole trisiloxane, ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyltriazone, homosalate, methylene bis-benzotriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol, octocrylene, phenylbenzozimidazolesulfonic acid, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, trisodium ethylenediaminedisuccinate, and combinations thereof. ADDITIONAL UV FILTERS
[0072] The composition according to the present invention may include at least one additional UV filter. There is no limit as to the type of UV filter. Two or more types of UV filters may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of UV filter or a combination of different types of UV filters may be used.
[0073] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one additional UV filter is selected from homosalate, phenylbenzhnidazolesulfonic acid, drometrizoletrisiloxane, methylene bis-benzotriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, and titanium dioxide (and) hydroxide aluminum (and) stearic acid, ethoxyethyl methoxypropylaminocyclohexenylidene cyanoacetate.
[0074] The additional UV filter may be selected from inorganic UV filters, organic UV filters and mixtures thereof. The composition according to the present invention may comprise the additional UV filter(s) in an amount of 0.1 to 50% by weight, and in certain embodiments of 1 to 40% by weight, and in certain embodiments of 2 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional inorganic UV filters
[0075] The composition according to the present invention may optionally comprise at least one additional UV filter chosen from inorganic UV filters. If two or more inorganic UV filters are used, they may be the same or different.
[0076] The inorganic UV filter used for the present invention may be active in the UV-A and / or UV-B region. The inorganic UV filter may be hydrophilic and / or lipophilic. The inorganic UV filter, in certain embodiments, is insoluble in solvents, such as water and ethanol, commonly used in cosmetics.
[0077] In some embodiments, it is desirable that the inorganic UV filter is in the form of a fine particle having an average (primary) particle diameter of 1 nm to 50 nm, and in some embodiments of 5 nm to 40 nm, and in some embodiments of 10 nm to 30 nm. The average (primary) particle size or the average (primary) particle diameter herein is an arithmetic mean diameter.
[0078] The inorganic UV filter may be selected from the group consisting of silicon carbide, metal oxides which may or may not be coated, and mixtures thereof. And in some embodiments, the inorganic UV filters are selected from pigments (average primary particle size: generally from 5 nm to 50 nm, and in some embodiments from 10 nm to 50 nm) formed from metal oxides such as, for example, pigments formed from titanium oxide (amorphous or crystalline in rutile and / or anatase form), iron oxide, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, which are all anti-UV photoprotective agents well known as such. And in some embodiments, the inorganic UV filters are selected from titanium oxide, zinc oxide and, in some embodiments, titanium oxide.
[0079] The inorganic UV filter may be coated or uncoated. The inorganic UV filter may have at least one coating. The coating may comprise at least one compound selected from the group consisting of alumina, silica, aluminum hydroxide, silicones, silanes, fatty acids or their salts (such as sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts), fatty alcohols, lecithin, amino acids, polysaccharides, proteins, alkanolamines, waxes such as wax beekeeping agents, (meth)acrylic polymers, organic UV filters, and (per)fluorinated compounds. In some embodiments, it is preferable that the coating includes at least one organic UV filter. As an organic UV filter in the coating, a dibenzoylmethane derivative, such as butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone) and 2,2'-methylenebis[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1,1,3,3-tetramethyl-butyl)phenol] (methylene bis-benzotriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol) marketed under the name "TINOSORB M" by BASF, may be preferable.
[0080] In known manner, the silicones in the coating or coatings may be organosilicon polymers or oligomers comprising a linear or cyclic and branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by the polymerization and / or polycondensation of suitable functional silanes and essentially composed of repeating main units in which the silicon atoms are linked to each other by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond), optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being directly linked to said silicon atoms by a carbon atom.
[0081] The term “silicones” also includes the silanes necessary for their preparation, in particular alkylsilanes.
[0082] The silicones used for the coating or coatings may be and in some embodiments are selected from the group consisting of alkylsilanes, polydialkylsiloxanes and polyalkylhydrosiloxanes. And in some embodiments, the silicones are selected from the group consisting of octyltrimethylsilanes, polydimethylsiloxanes and polymethylhydrosiloxanes.
[0083] Of course, inorganic UV filters consisting of metal oxides may, before their treatment with silicones, have been treated with other coating agents, in particular with cerium oxide, alumina, silica, aluminum compounds, silicon compounds, or mixtures thereof. The coated inorganic UV filter may have been prepared by subjecting the inorganic UV filter to one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with any of the compounds described above, as well as polyethylenes, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum alkoxides), metal oxides, sodium hexametaphosphate, and those presented, for example, in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, pp. 53-64.
[0084] Coated inorganic UV filters can be coated with titanium oxides: with silica, such as the product "Sun veil" from Ikeda, and "Sunsil TIN 50" from Sunjin Chemical; with silica and with iron oxide, such as the product "Sunveil F" from Ikeda; with silica and with alumina, such as the products "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SA" from Tayca, "Tioveil" from Tioxide, and "Mirasun TiW 60" from Rhodia; with alumina, such as the products "Tipaque TTO-55 (B)" and "Tipaque TTO-55 (A)" from Ishihara, and "UVT 14 / 4" from Kemira; with alumina and with aluminum stearate, such as the product "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 T, MT 100 TX, MT 100 Z or MT-01" from Tayca, the products "Solaveil CT-10 W" and "Solaveil CT 100" from Uniqema, and the product "Eusolex T-AVO" from Merck; with alumina and with aluminum laurate, such as the product "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 S" from Tayca; with iron oxide and iron stearate, such as the product "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 F" from Tayca; with zinc oxide and zinc stearate, such as Tayca's "BR351" product; with silica and alumina and treated with a silicone, such as Tayca's "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 SAS", "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SAS" and "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SAS" products; with silica, alumina and aluminum stearate and treated with a silicone, such as Titan Kogyo's "STT-30-DS" product;with silica and treated with a silicone, such as the product “UV-Titan X 195” from Kemira; with alumina and treated with a silicone, such as the products “Tipaque TTO-55 (S)” from Ishihara or “UV Titan M 262” from Kemira; ; with triethanolamine, such as Titan Kogyo's "STT-65-S" product; with stearic acid, such as Ishihara's "Tipaque TTO-55 (C)" product; or with sodium hexametaphosphate, such as Tayca's "Micro titanium Dioxide MT 150 W" product.Other silicone-treated titanium oxide pigments are, in some embodiments, octyltrimethylsilane-treated TiO2 having an average individual particle size of 25 and 40 nm, such as that marketed under the trademark "T 805" by Degussa Silices, polydimethylsiloxane-treated TiO2 having an average individual particle size of 21 nm, such as that marketed under the trademark "70250 Cardre UF TiO2Si 3" by Cardre, and polydimethylhydrosiloxane-treated anatase / rutile TiO2 having an average individual particle size of 25 nm, such as that marketed under the trademark "Microtitanium Dioxide USP carbonate Hydrophobie" by Color Techniques.
[0085] And in some embodiments, the following coated TiO2 can be used as the coated inorganic UV filter: Stearic acid (and) Aluminum hydroxide (and) TiO2, such as Tayca's product "MT-100 TV", with an average primary particle diameter of 15 nm; Dimethicone (and) Stearic acid (and) Aluminum hydroxide (and) TiO2, such as Miyoshi Kasei's product "S A-TTO-S4", with an average primary particle diameter of 15 nm; Silica (and) TiO2, such as Tayca's product "MT-100 WP", with an average primary particle diameter of 15 nm; Dimethicone (and) Silica (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) TiO2, such as Tayca's product "MT-Y02" and "MT-Y-110 M3S", with an average particle diameter primary particle diameter of 10 nm; Dimethicone (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) TiO2, such as the product “SA-TTO-S3” from Miyoshi Kasei, with an average primary particle diameter of 15 nm; Dimethicone (and) Alumina (and) TiO2, such as the product “UV TITAN Ml 70” from Sachtleben, with an average primary particle diameter of 15 nm; and Silica (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) Alginic Acid (and) TiO2, such as the product “MT- 100 AQ” from Tayca, with an average primary particle diameter of 15 nm. In terms of UV filtering capacity, TiO2 coated with at least one organic UV filter is more preferable. For example, Avobenzone (and) Stearic Acid (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) TiO2 such as Tayca's product "HXMT-100ZA", with an average primary particle diameter of 15 nm, can be used.
[0086] Uncoated titanium oxide pigments are, for example, marketed by Tayca under the trademarks “Microtitanium Dioxide MT500B” or “Microtitanium Dioxide MT600B”, by Degussa under the trademark “P 25”, by Wacker under the trademark “Transparent Titanium Oxide PW”, by Miyoshi Kasei under the trademark “UFTR”, by Tomen under the trademark “ITS”, and by Tioxide under the trademark “Tioveil AQ”. Uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example: those marketed under the trademark “Z-cote” by Sunsmart; those marketed under the trademark “Nanox” by Elementis; and those marketed under the trademark “Nanogard WCD 2025” by Nanophase Technologies. Coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example: those marketed under the brand name “Zinc Oxide CS-5” by Toshiba (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrosiloxane);those marketed under the brand name “Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN” by Nanophase Technologies (as a 40% dispersion in Finsolv TN, a C12-C15 alkyl benzoate); those marketed under the brand name “Daitopersion Zn-30” and “Daitopersion Zn-50” by Daito (dispersions in oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane / cyclopopolymethylsiloxane comprising 30% or 50% of zinc nanooxides coated with silica and polymethylhydrosiloxane); those marketed under the brand name “NFD Ultrafine ZnO” by Daikin (ZnO coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate and a perfluoroalkylethyl copolymer dispersed in cyclopentasiloxane); those marketed under the brand name “SPD-Z1” by Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with an acrylic polymer grafted with a silicone dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane); those marketed under the brand name “Escalol Z100” by ISP (ZnO treated with alumina dispersed in a mixture of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate / PVP-hexadecene copolymer / methicone;those marketed under the brand name “Fuji ZnO-SMS-10” by Fuji Pigment (ZnO coated with silica and polymethylsilsesquioxane); and those marketed under the brand name “Nanox Gel TN” by Elementis (ZnO dispersed at 55% in a C12-C15 alkyl benzoate with hydroxystearic acid polycondensate). Cerium oxide pigments; uncoated are marketed, for example, under the brand name “Colloidal Cerium Oxide” by Rhone-Poulenc.
[0087] Uncoated iron oxide pigments are, for example, marketed by Arnaud under the brands “Nanogard WCD 2002 (FE 45B)”, “Nanogard Iron FE 45 BL AQ”, “Nanogard FE 45R AQ” and “Nanogard WCD 2006 (FE 45R)”, or by Mitsubishi under the brand “TY-220”.
[0088] Coated iron oxide pigments are, for example, marketed by Arnaud under the brands “Nanogard WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN)”, “Nanogard WCD 2009 (FE 45B 556)”, “Nanogard FE 45 BL 345” and “Nanogard FE 45 BL” or by BASF under the brand “Transparent iron oxide”.
[0089] Mention may also be made of mixtures of metal oxides, in particular, of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including a mixture of equal weights of titanium dioxide coated with silica and cerium dioxide coated with silica marketed by Ikeda under the brand name "Sunveil A", as well as a mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone, such as the product "M 261" marketed by Kemira, or coated with alumina, silica and glycerol, such as the product "M 211" marketed by Kemira.
[0090] Coated inorganic UV filters are preferable, since the UV filtering effects of the inorganic UV filters can be enhanced. In addition, the coating(s) may help to uniformly or homogeneously disperse the UV filters in the composition according to the present invention. Additional organic UV filters
[0091] The composition according to the present invention may optionally comprise at least one additional UV filter chosen from organic UV filters. If two or more organic UV filters are used, they may be the same or different.
[0092] The organic UV filter used for the present invention may be active in the UV-A and / or UV-B region. The organic UV filter may be hydrophilic and / or lipophilic.
[0093] The organic UV filter can be solid or liquid. The terms “solid” and “liquid” mean solid and liquid, respectively, at 25°C under 1 atm.
[0094] The organic UV filter may be selected from the group consisting of anthranilic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; cinnamic compounds; salicylic compounds; camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; [3,[3-diphenylacrylate] compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds; benzimidazole compounds; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) compounds; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbe nzotriazole) compounds; benzoxazole compounds; screen polymers and screen silicones; dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene; 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds; guaiazulene and its derivatives; rutin and its derivatives; flavonoids; bioflavonoids; oryzanol and its derivatives; quinic acid and its derivatives; phenols; retinol; cysteine; aromatic amino acids; peptides having an aromatic amino acid residue; and mixtures thereof.
[0095] Examples of organic UV filter(s) that may be mentioned are those indicated below under their INCI names and their mixtures. Anthranilic compounds: Menthyl anthranilate, marketed under the brand name “Neo Heliopan MA” by Haarmann and Reimer. Dibenzoylmethane compounds: Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, marketed in particular under the brand name “Parsol 1789” by Hoffmann-La Roche; and isopropyl dibenzoylmethane. Cinnamic compounds: Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, marketed in particular under the brand name “Parsol MCX” by Hoffmann-La Roche; isopropyl methoxycinnamate; isopropoxy methoxycinnamate; isoamyl methoxycinnamate, marketed under the brand name “Neo Heliopan E 1000” by Haarmann and Reimer; cinoxate (2-ethoxyethyl-4-methoxycinnamate); DEA methoxycinnamate; diisopropyl methylcinnamate; and glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate.Salicylic compounds: Homosalate (homomenthyl salicylate), marketed under the brand name “Eusolex HMS” by Rona / EM Industries; ethylhexyl salicylate, marketed under the brand name “Neo Heliopan OS” by Haarmann and Reimer; glycol salicylate; butyloctyl salicylate; phenyl salicylate; dipropylene glycol salicylate, marketed under the brand name “Dipsal” by Scher; and TEA salicylate, marketed under the brand name “Neo Heliopan TS” by Haarmann and Reimer.Camphor compounds, in particular benzylidenecamphor derivatives: 3-benzylidene camphor, manufactured under the brand name “Mexoryl SD” by Chimex; 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, marketed under the brand name “Eusolex 6300” by Merck; benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid, manufactured under the brand name “Mexoryl SL” by Chimex; camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, manufactured under the brand name “Mexoryl SO” by Chimex; terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, manufactured under the brand name “Mexoryl SX” by Chimex; and polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor, manufactured under the brand name “Mexoryl SW” by Chimex.Benzophenone compounds: Benzophenone-1 (2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone), marketed under the brand name "Uvinul 400" by BASF; benzophenone-2 (tetrahydroxybenzophenone), marketed under the brand name "Uvinul D50" by BASF; Benzophenone-3 (2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone) or oxybenzone, marketed under the brand name "Uvinul M40" by BASF; benzophenone-4 (hydroxymethoxybenzophenonesulfonic acid), marketed under the brand name "Uvinul MS40" by BASF; benzophenone-5 (sodium hydroxymethoxybenzophenone sulfonate); benzophenone-6 (dihydroxydimethoxybenzophenone); marketed under the brand name "Helisorb 11" by Norquay; benzophenone-8, marketed . under the brand name “Spectra-Sorb UV-24” by American Cyanamid; benzophenone-9 (disodium dihydroxydimethoxybenzophenonedisulfonate), marketed under the brand name “UVINUL DS-49” by BASF; and benzophenone-12, and n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate (UVINUL A+ by BASF). The compounds [3,[3-diphenylacrylate Octocrylene, marketed in particular under the brand name “Uvinul N539” by BASF; and Etocrylene, marketed in particular under the brand name “Uvinul N35” by BASF. Triazine compounds: Diethylhexyl butamido triazone, marketed under the brand name “Uvasorb HEB” by Sigma 3V; 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine. Benzotriazole compounds, especially phenylbenzotriazole derivatives: 2-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-6-dodecyl-4-methylpheno, branched and linear, and those described in USP 5240975.Benzalmalonate compounds: Dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate, and polyorganosiloxane comprising benzalmalonate functional groups, such as polysilicone-15, marketed under the trademark "Parsol SLX" by Hoffmann-LaRoche. Benzimidazole compounds, in particular phenylbenzimidazole derivatives: Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, marketed in particular under the trademark "Eusolex 232" by Merck, and disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan AP" by Haarmann and Reimer. Imidazoline compounds: Ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionate. Bis-benzoazolyl compounds: the derivatives as described in EP-669,323 and US Patent No. 2,463,264.Para-aminobenzoic acid compounds: PABA (p-aminobenzoic acid), ethyl PABA, ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, pentyl dimethyl PABA, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, marketed in particular under the brand name “Escalol 507” by ISP, glyceryl PABA and PEG-25 PABA, marketed under the brand name “Uvinul P25” by BASF. -methylene bis-(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazol) compounds, such as 2,2'-methylenebis[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-phenol] sold in solid form under the trademark “Mixxim BB / 200” by Fairmount Chemical, 2,2'-methylenebis[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)phenol] sold in micronized form in aqueous dispersion under the trademark “Tinosorb M” by BASF, or under the trademark “Mixxim BB / 100” by Fairmount Chemical, and derivatives as described in US patentsNo. 5,237,071 and 5,166,355, GB-2,303,549, DE-197 26,184 and EP-893,119, and Drometrizole trisiloxane, marketed under the brand name "Silatrizole" by Rhodia Chimie or - "Mexoryl XL" by L'Oréal. Benzoxazole compounds: 2,4-bis[5-l(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-l,3,5-triazine, marketed under the brand name Uvasorb K2A by Sigma 3V. Screen polymers and screen silicones: the silicones described in WO 93 / 04665. Dimers derived from a-alkylstyrene: The dimers. described in DE-19855649. 4,4-Diarylbutadiene compounds: l,l-dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene.
[0096] Dans certains modes de réalisation, Il est souhaitable que le(s) filtre(s) UV organique(s) soi(en)t choisi(s) dans le groupe consistant en : butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)be nzoate, 1 ,r-( 1,4-piperazinediyl)bis [1- [2- [4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]ph enyl]-methanone, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris(diisobutyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3-{ 1 ,3 ,3 ,3 -tetramethyl-l-[(trimethylsilylo xy]-disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris-(di-phenyl)-triazine, 2,4,6-tris-(ter-phenyl)-triazine,methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, drometrizole trisiloxane, polysilicone-15, dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalo nate, l,l-dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene, 2,4-bis[5-l (dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-1,3,5-triazine, camphor benzylkonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof. , ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS
[0097] In addition to the essential components described above, the composition of the invention may further comprise any usual cosmetically acceptable ingredient, which may be chosen in particular from a perfume / fragrance, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, active ingredients, vitamins, fillers, silicones, polymers, and mixtures thereof.
[0098] The person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional ingredients and / or their quantity so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, compromised by the envisaged addition.
[0099] The additional ingredients may represent from 0.1 to 20%, such as 0.1 to 10.0% or such as 0.1 to 8.0% by weight, of the total weight of the composition of the invention. EXAMPLES
[0100] By way of non-limiting illustration, the invention will now be described with reference to the following examples. Example A
[0101] A suitable composition according to the present invention is as in the following Example 1:
[0102] [Table 1]
[0103] Table 1 - Composition according to the present invention: FUNCTION INGREDIENT Ex. 1 of the invention (% by weight) FATTY COMPOUND ISOPROPYL MYRISTATE 15.0 to 20.0% DIISOPROPYL SEBACATE DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE PROPYLENE GLYCOL DICAPRYLATE / DICAPRATE COPERNICIA CERIFERA WAX SURFACTANT STEARIC ACID 2.5 to 4.0% GLYCERYL STEARATE (AND) PEG-100 STEARATE POTASSIUM CETYL PHOSPHATE FRAGRANCE FRAGRANCE 0.0 to 0.8% SOLVENT ALCOHOL 5% - 12% GLYCERIN POLYMER ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL CROSSPOLYMER 0.1 % to 0.4% XANTHAN GUM ACTIVE COMPOUND TRIETHANOL AMINE 0.8% to 1.5% ETHYLENEDIAMINEDISUCCINATE TRIS ODIC HYDROXYACETOPHENONE CITRIC ACID 0.05 to 0.1% PRESERVATIVE CHLORPHENESIN 0.2 to 0.3% UV FILTER BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHAN E 12.0 to 16.0% ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL METHO XYPHENYL TRIAZINE DIETHYLAMINO HYDROXYBENZOYL B HEXYL ENZOATE SILICA FILLER 2.0 to 3.5% SILICA SILYLATE PERLITE SOLVENT WATER QS Example B
[0104] A suitable composition of the state of the art is such as the following Example 2:
[0105] [Table 2]
[0106] Table 2 - Composition according to the state of the art: FUNCTION INGREDIENT EX.2 (% by weight) ACTIVE COMPOUND ACTIVE COMPOUND TRIETHANOL AMINE 0.8 to 1.5% ETHYLENEDIAMINEDISUCCINATE T RISODIUM FATTY COMPOUND FATTY COMPOUND FATTY COMPOUND FATTY COMPOUND ISOPROPYL PALMITATE 6.0 to 12.0% SHEA BUTTER ORYZA SATIVA WAX DIISOPROPYL SEBACATE FRAGRANCE PARFUM 0.3 to 0.6% POLYMER CORN STARCH 1.0 to 2.0% XANTHAN GUM ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL CROSSPOLYMER SOLVENT WATER QS SOLVENT ALCOHOL DENAT. 5.0 to 12.0% GLYCERIN PENTYLENE GLYCOL CAPRYLYLGLYCOL SUNSCREEN BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE 12.0 to 18.0% ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL MET HOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE SURFACTANT STEARIC ACID 2.0-4.5% GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) STEA PEG-100 RATE POTASSIUM CETYLPHOSPHATE VITAMIN TOCOPHEROL 0.10-0.3% Example C Stability test
[0107] A test was carried out with the compositions of the invention of Example 3 and Example 4 to evaluate the stability of the present invention.
[0108] [Table 3]
[0109] Table 3 - Compositions 3 and 4 of the invention used in the stability test FUNCTION INGREDIENT Ex. 3 of the invention (% by weight) Ex. 4 of the invention (% by weight) ACTIVE COMPOUND TRIETHANOL AMINE 0.7 to 1.5% 0.7 to 1.5% TRISODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMINEDISUCCINA TE HYDROXYACETOPHENONE FATTY COMPOUND ISOPROPYL MYRISTATE 14.0 to 20.0% 14.0 to 20.0% PROPYLENE GLYCOL DICAPRYLATE / DICAPRATE DIISOPROPYL SEBACATE DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE COPERNICIA CERIFERA WAX - 1.00% FILLER SILICA 1.8 to 3.5% 1.8 to 3.5% SILICA SILYLATE PERLITE XANTHAN GUM POLYMER 0.2-0.5% 0.2-0.5% ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL CROSSPOLYMER SOLVENT WATER QSQS SOLVENT ALCOHOL 5.0-12.0% 5.0-12.0% GLYCERIN SOL ARY FILTER BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLM ETHANE 12.0-18.0% 12.0-18.0% ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE SURFACTANT STEARIC ACID 2.8-4.0% 2.8-4.0% GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) PEG-100 STEARATE POTASSI UM CETYLPHOSPHATE
[0110] In this sense, the composition of Example 4 was placed under high stirring at 3000 rpm and at a temperature of 45°C for 30 minutes.
[0111] It was concluded that the composition of Example 4, according to the present invention, exhibited greatly improved stability and remained homogeneous. Example D Consumer Test
[0112] In order to evaluate the benefits of the present invention for the consumer (example 1 of the invention), a test was carried out with volunteers.
[0113] The objective was to understand whether the new formula could be competitive on the market and recruit new consumers Consumer tensions and commercial challenge: Validate product performance to recruit new consumers: Understand the performance and competitiveness of the base compared to the reference.
[0114] [T ables 4] Formula of the invention Comparative formula (state of the art) Isopropyl myristate Dimethicone Diisopropyl sebacate Octocrylene Dicaprylyl carbonate Ethylhexyl salicylate Propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate Propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate
[0115] With these modifications, the present invention has a better environmental formula (sustainable ingredients), and a formula without the use of silicone and controversial ingredients, such as homosalate and ethylhexyl salicylate. Therefore, superior performance has been achieved.
[0116] Conclusion
[0117] - The formulas of the invention of the present invention have obtained excellent results and are competitive;
[0118] - The formulas of the present invention have provided a better application, a oiliness and dryness control, better makeup compatibility, and long-lasting performance with better care, protection, and staying power than the state-of-the-art comparative formula. Example E SPF Test
[0119] The objective of this test was to evaluate the SPF obtained by the composition of the invention by means of a method which follows ISO 24444 Sun protection test methods - In vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF) 2019.
[0120] The composition of Example 5 (below) was applied to the subject's dry skin and irradiated with a series of ultraviolet doses with an incremental progression of 12%. The sites were evaluated after a period of 16 to 24 hours.
[0121] The experimental product and the standard were applied to an area of 30 cm2 at a rate of 2.0 mg / cm2 and distributed evenly without excessive pressure and without a finger cot.
[0122] The minimum erythemal dose (MED) is defined as the lowest dose of erythemally effective ultraviolet radiation that produces the first unequivocal erythema with defined borders filling more than 50% of the exposure subsite, 16 to 24 hours after UV exposure.
[0123] The study can be considered valid if the average SPF of the control was within the expected range and if the c value was not greater than 17% of the average SPF for the composition of Example 5.
[0124] The application site was the dorsal intrascapular area and 10 study subjects participated, with inclusion criteria being healthy male or female subjects aged 18 to 65 years with intact skin at the test site.
[0125] In conclusion, the inventors surprisingly noticed that the composition of example 5 achieved the objective of the study, considering 10 volunteers, and can claim an SPF60.
[0126] [Tables5] FUNCTION INGREDIENT Ex. 5 of the invention (% by weight) FATTY COMPOUND ISOPROPYL MYRISTATE 15.0 to 20.0% DIISOPROPYL SEBACATE DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE PROPYLENE GLYCOL DICAPRYLATE / DICAPRATE COPERNICIA CERIFERA WAX SURFACTANT STEARIC ACID 2.5 to 4.0% GLYCERYL STEARATE (AND) PEG-100 STEARATE POTASSIUM CETYLPHOSPHATE FRAGRANCE FRAGRANCE 0.0 to 0.8% SOLVENT ALCOHOL 5% - 12% GLYCERIN POLYMER ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL CROSSPOLYMER 0.1% to 0.4% XANTHAN GUM ACTIVE COMPOUND TRIETHANOL AMINE 0.8% to 1.5% ETHYLENEDIAMINEDISUCCINATE TR ISODIUM HYDROXYACETOPHENONE PRESERVATIVE CHLORPHENESIN 0.2 to 0.3% UV FILTER BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETH ANE 12.0 to 16.0% ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL METH OXYPHENYL TRIAZINE DIETHYLAMINO HYDROXYBENZOYL HEXYL BENZOATE SILICA FILLER 2.0 to 3.5% SILICA SILYLATE PERLITE SOLVENT WATER QS Example F
[0127] Manufacturing process of the cosmetic composition
[0128] The cosmetic composition of the present invention may be prepared by any conventional method of manufacturing a composition in the form of an emulsion.
[0129] In particular, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may be prepared by a process comprising the following steps:
[0130] (A): the oily phase comprising the oily raw materials, including (a) the Copemicia cerifera (carnauba) wax and (c) a UV filter system, is mixed and heated to 75°C;
[0131] (B): the aqueous phase comprising the aqueous raw materials is mixed until completely homogenized;
[0132] (C): the aqueous phase of step (B) is added to the oily phase of step (A), followed by stirring the mixture;
[0133] (D): the other ingredients are gradually added to the mixture obtained in step (C) and mixed until homogeneous, at a temperature below 30°C; and
[0134] (E): the charges are added.
Claims
Claims
1. A cosmetic sunscreen composition comprising: (a) at least one fatty compound selected from isopropyl myristate, diisopropyl sebacate, dicaprylyl carbonate, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, and mixtures thereof; (b) a Copemicia cerifera (camauba) wax; (c) at least one filler selected from silica silylate, silica, perlite, and combinations thereof; (d) at least one surfactant selected from stearic acid, glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate, potassium cetyl phosphate, and combinations thereof; and (e) a UV filter system.
2. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one fatty compound is present in the range of 0.1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
3. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the Copernicia cerifera (camauba) wax is present in the range of 0.5% to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
4. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one filler is present in the range of 0.05% to 4.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
5. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one surfactant is present in the range of 0.05% to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
6. The composition of claim 1, wherein the UV filter system is present in the range of 5.0% to 25.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
7. The cosmetic sunscreen composition of claim 1, wherein the UV filter system is selected from ethylhexyltriazone, hexyl diethylaminohydroxybenzoylbenzoate, isotridecyl phosphate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphen olmethoxyphenyltriazine, butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, drometrizole trisiloxane, ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyltriazone, homosalate, methylene bis-benzotriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol, octocrylene, phenylbenzozhnidazolesulfonic acid, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, and combinations thereof.
8. A cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein it further comprises cosmetically acceptable ingredients selected from additional UV filters, perfume / fragrance, preservatives, solvents, actives, surfactants, fatty compounds, vitamins, fillers, silicones, polymers, pigments, and combinations thereof.
9. A cosmetic sunscreen composition according to claim 1, comprising: (a) from 0.1% to 20.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one fatty compound selected from isopropyl myristate, diisopropyl sebacate, dicaprylyl carbonate, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, and mixtures thereof; (b) from 0.5% to 10.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of Copemicia cerifera (carnauba) wax; (c) from 0.05% to 4.0% by weight, based on the total weight, of at least one filler selected from silica silylate, silica, perlite, and combinations thereof; (d) from 0.05% to 10.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one surfactant chosen from stearic acid, glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate, potassium cetylphosphate and combinations thereof;and (e) from 5.0% to 25.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of a UV filter system.;
10. Use of the cosmetic composition, as defined in claim 1, for the manufacture of a product intended to be used as a daily sunscreen product.
Citation Information
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