SILICONE-FREE HAIR REVITALIZATION COMPOSITION

Abstract

SILICONE-FREE HAIR REVITALIZATION COMPOSITION The present invention relates to a silicone-free composition, preferably for hair revitalization, comprising: a) at least one volatile alkane; b) at least one fatty compound selected from saturated fatty alcohols, saturated fatty acids, and mixtures thereof; and c) at least one thickener selected from ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) polymers, hydrogenated styrene-olefin block copolymers, and mixtures thereof. The present invention also relates to a hair revitalization process comprising applying the composition as described above to the hair. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: SILICONE-FREE HAIR REVITALIZATION COMPOSITION Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a hair conditioning composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a silicone-free hair conditioning composition. The present invention also relates to a hair conditioning process. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] Hair is generally damaged and weakened by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light, weather conditions and / or the action of mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, perming and / or straightening.

[0003] There are many products developed to revitalize hair.

[0004] The current hair oil market is dominated by hair oil products containing silicones. However, many consumers prefer silicone-free hair oil products, which explains the global growth of silicone-free oil products.

[0005] Therefore, it is desirable to develop a silicone-free hair conditioning oil product that can provide a conditioning effect similar to silicone-based oil products and does not leave a greasy feeling.

[0006] It is also desirable that the silicone-free oil product be stable so that consumers can apply it conveniently. Summary of the invention

[0007] An object of the present invention is therefore to develop silicone-free hair revitalizing oil products that are stable, can offer a revitalizing effect similar to silicone-based oil products and do not deliver a greasy feeling.

[0008] Another object of the present invention is to propose a hair revitalization process.

[0009] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention proposes a silicone-free hair revitalizing composition comprising: a. at least one volatile alkane; b. at least one fatty compound selected from saturated fatty alcohols, acids saturated fats, and mixtures thereof; and c. at least one thickener selected from ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) polymers, hydrogenated styrene-olefin block copolymers, and mixtures thereof.

[0010] According to a second aspect, the present invention proposes a hair revitalization process comprising the application of the composition as described above to the hair.

[0011] The inventors have now discovered that with the combination of at least one volatile alkane, at least one fatty compound as defined above and at least one thickener as defined above, the composition of the present invention is stable, can offer similar or better revitalizing effects, for example a silky effect, compared to a silicone-based oil composition, and can provide a feeling of lightness.

[0012] Other subjects and features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will be presented in the following description and, in part, will emerge from the description, or can be learned through practice of the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0013] As used herein, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between... and..." and "from... to...".

[0014] As used herein, the term "including" should be interpreted as encompassing all the features specifically mentioned as well as those optional, additional, unspecified.

[0015] As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the features specifically mentioned are present (i.e., "consisting of").

[0016] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as that commonly accepted by a person skilled in the art of the present invention. Where the definition of a term in this description conflicts with the meaning commonly accepted by a person skilled in the art of the present invention, the definition described herein shall prevail.

[0017] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values ​​expressing a quantity of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims shall be understood as modified by the term "approximately". Accordingly, unless otherwise stated, the numerical values ​​and parameters described herein are approximate values ​​that may be changed according to the desired performance as required.

[0018] As used herein, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0019] As used herein, the expression "silicone-free composition" means that the composition contains less than 2% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, of silicone, relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferably that it contains no silicone at all. Where appropriate, small amounts of silicone may be supplied by ingredients in the composition that contain it in residual quantities but are not deliberately supplied.

[0020] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises: a. at least one volatile alkane; b. at least one fatty compound selected from saturated fatty alcohols, acids saturated fats, and mixtures thereof; and c. at least one thickener selected from ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) polymers, hydrogenated styrene-olefin block copolymers, and mixtures thereof. Volatile alkanes

[0021] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one volatile alkane.

[0022] The term "alkane" is intended to designate any compound comprising a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain consisting exclusively of carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms.

[0023] The expression "volatile alkane" which is suitable for use in the present invention is intended to designate an alkane which is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature (25 °C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 101,325 Pa), which is liquid at room temperature, having in particular an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 15 mg / cm2 / min, at room temperature (25 °C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0024] Among the volatile alkanes according to the present invention, the following may be mentioned:

[0025] volatile linear alkanes;

[0026] volatile branched alkanes;

[0027] and mixtures thereof. a) Volatile linear alkanes

[0028] The linear volatile alkanes suitable for use in the present invention are preferably chosen from linear volatile alkanes comprising 7 to 14 carbon atoms.

[0029] Examples of alkanes suitable for the present invention include the alkanes described in patent applications WO 2007 / 068371 and WO 2008 / 155059 from the Cognis company (mixtures of distinct alkanes differing by at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, which are themselves obtained from coconut oil or palm oil.

[0030] Examples of linear alkanes suitable for use in the present invention include n-heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (Cn), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13) and n-tetradecane (CM), and mixtures thereof.

[0031] According to a preferred mode, we can cite the mixtures of n-undecane (Cn) and n-tridecane (Cn) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of patent application WO 2008 / 155059 of the Cognis company.

[0032] We can also mention n-dodecane (Ci2) and n-tetradecane (CM) sold by Sasol under the references Parafol 12 97 and Parafol 14 97 respectively, and also their mixtures. b) Volatile branched alkanes

[0033] The linear branched alkanes suitable for use in the present invention are preferably chosen from among the C8-Ci6 branched alkanes, for example, petroleum-derived C8-Ci6 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), for example isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane and isohexadecane, and mixtures thereof. Isododecane and isohexadecane are most preferably used.

[0034] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one volatile alkane selected from linear C7-Ci4 alkanes, branched C8-Ci6 alkanes, and mixtures thereof.

[0035] More preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one volatile alkane selected from n-undecane (Cl 1), n-tridecane (C13), isododecane, isohexadecane, and mixtures thereof.

[0036] Even more preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises a combination of n-undecane (C11), n-tridecane (C13), isododecane and isohexadecane.

[0037] The volatile alkane can deliver excellent spreading capacity on hair without a greasy appearance.

[0038] Advantageously, the volatile alkane is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 90% by weight, preferably from 10% by weight to 80% by weight, more preferably from 20% by weight to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Fatty compounds

[0039] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one fatty compound selected from saturated fatty alcohols, saturated fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.

[0040] The term "fatty compound" is intended to designate an organic compound that is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 1.013 x 10⁵ Pa) (solubility less than 5% and preferably less than 1%, more preferably less than 0.1%). Furthermore, the fatty compound is generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for example, chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum jelly, or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane. Saturated fatty alcohols

[0041] The term "saturated fatty alcohol" here refers to an alcohol having a long, saturated aliphatic carbon chain. Preferably, the saturated fatty alcohol should be chosen from any saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols, linear or branched. Among saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, saturated C8-C20 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, may preferably be used. Any saturated C10-C20 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, are even more preferably used. Linear C12-C20 fatty alcohols are even more preferably used, and linear C12-C16 fatty alcohols are most preferably used.

[0042] Examples of saturated fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0043] According to at least one preferred embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is preferably chosen from lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0044] Preferably, the saturated fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is lauryl alcohol. Saturated fatty acids

[0045] In some embodiments, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one fatty compound selected from saturated fatty acids.

[0046] The term "saturated fatty acid" here refers to an acid having a long saturated aliphatic carbon chain. Preferably, the saturated fatty acid should be chosen from any saturated C6-C30 fatty acids, linear or branched. Among saturated C6-C30 fatty acids, linear or branched, are saturated C8-C20 fatty acids, Linear or branched fatty acids are preferably used. Any saturated C10-C20 fatty acids, linear or branched, are more preferentially used.

[0047] Examples of saturated fatty acids include, for example, lauric acid, palmitic acid, heptadecanoic acid, stearic acid, nonadecanoic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, tetradocosanoic acid, hexadocosanoic acid and octadocosanoic acid.

[0048] Advantageously, the fatty compound chosen from among saturated fatty alcohols, saturated fatty acids, and mixtures thereof, is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0049] The presence of the saturated fatty compound as defined above can provide a revitalizing effect without a greasy feel. In particular, the saturated fatty compound has a strong affinity for damaged hair fibers, especially when wet; furthermore, the long chain can provide a nourishing and soft feel. Thickeners

[0050] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one thickener selected from ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) polymers, hydrogenated styrene and olefin block copolymers, and mixtures thereof.

[0051] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “thickener” means a compound which, by virtue of its presence at 25 °C, is capable of increasing the viscosity of the composition in which it is present, preferably by at least 50 mPa-s.

[0052] Ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) polymers

[0053] The ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) polymer (ETPEA) is preferably in the form of a resin prepared by reacting a diacid, a diamine, a polyol and a monoalcohol in which:

[0054] (i) at least 50% of equivalents of said diacid comprises a polymerized fatty acid and

[0055] (ii) at least 50% of the equivalents of said diamine comprise ethylenediamine.

[0056] More preferably, the resin composition is such that

[0057] (iii) 10 to 60% of equivalents relative to all equivalents of hydroxyl and amine from the diamine, polyol and monoalcohol come from the monoalcohol,

[0058] (iv) at most 50% of equivalents relative to all hydroxyl and amine equivalents from the diamine, polyol and monoalcohol come from the polyol.

[0059] Ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) polymers (ETPEA) can be prepared according to the process described in US patent 6,552,160.

[0060] The diacid is generally an organic molecule containing two carboxylic acid groups or equivalent reactive groups. Preferably, the diacid is a polymerized fatty acid.

[0061] The polymerized fatty acid is typically a mixture comprising an acid dimer and an acid trimer where each dimer can be saturated, unsaturated, cyclic or acyclic, etc. The polymerized fatty acid used for the synthesis of the poly(ester-amide) polymer (ETPEA) is preferably an acid dimer.

[0062] The polymerized fatty acid is generally formed by heating long-chain unsaturated fatty acids, for example, C18 monocarboxylic acids, at temperatures of about 200 to 250 °C in the presence of a catalytic clay to polymerize the fatty acids. The product obtained generally comprises an acid dimer, in particular a C36 dicarboxylic acid formed by dimerization of the fatty acid, and an acid trimer, in particular a C54 tricarboxylic acid obtained by trimerization of the carboxylic acid. Further details concerning the polymerization of fatty acids are given in particular in US Patent 3,157,681 and the book "Naval Stores—Production, Chemistry and Utilization," edited by D.F. Zinkel and J. Russell, Pulp. Chem. Assoc. Inc., 1989, Chapter 23.

[0063] Preferably, the polymerized fatty acid contains less than 20% by weight of acid trimer and at least 80% by weight of acid dimer relative to the total weight of the polymerized fatty acid. More particularly, the acid dimer constitutes essentially all of the polymerized fatty acid.

[0064] Among the unsaturated fatty acids used to form the polymerized fatty acid are oleic acid, linoleic acid, and linolenic acid. Preferably, long-chain fatty acid oils are used, which are mixtures of long-chain unsaturated fatty acids obtained by means of a wood pulp reduction process. Other sources can also be used, such as soybeans or rapeseed. The polymerized fatty acid that can be used according to the invention has an acid value of approximately 180 to 200.

[0065] The polymerized fatty acid can be hydrogenated before being used in the resin formation reaction. Hydrogenation results in a slightly higher melting point of the resin as well as greater stability against oxidation and color in the case of a slightly colored resin.

[0066] Among the polymerized fatty acids and in particular the hydrogenated forms available commercially, we can mention the product sold under the brand name Unidyme by the company Arizona Chemical, the product sold under the brand name Pripol 1015 by the company Uniqema, or the product sold under the brand name Empol 1008 by the company Cognis.

[0067] In particular, a C36 hydrogenated linoleic acid dimer will be used as a polymerized fatty acid.

[0068] Besides the polymerized fatty acid or reactive equivalents, the diacid may include a co-diacid of formula: HOOC-Ri-COOH where Ri is a hydrocarbon-based compound in C4-C19, preferably in C4-Ci2 and more preferably in C4-C8.

[0069] Carbon atoms can be arranged in a linear, branched or cyclic form and an unsaturation can be present between two adjacent atoms. Ri can be aliphatic or aromatic.

[0070] The diamine reagent has two amine groups which are preferably primary amines and represented by the formula: HN(R2a)-R2-N(R2a)H in which R2a designates hydrogen or an alkyl group or otherwise forms, with R2 or another radical R2a, a heterocycle.

[0071] As a diamine, ethylenediamine will be used in particular and preferably, i.e. R2a is hydrogen and R2 is -CH2-CH2-.

[0072] Diamines other than ethylenediamine will be referred to in the text as co-diamines. When present, co-diamines are used in small quantities relative to ethylenediamine.

[0073] The monoalcohol can be represented by the formula R3-OH where R3 is preferably a hydrocarbon-based group having at least 10 carbon atoms. Thus, the monoalcohol can be described as a monohydric alcohol.

[0074] According to a particular preferred form, R3 is a hydrocarbon-based group in the form C10-C30, preferably a hydrocarbon-based group in the form C2-C24, and even more particularly a hydrocarbon-based radical in the form C18. For the purposes of the invention, the expression "C10-C30 hydrocarbon-based group" is understood to designate any group having at least 10 carbon atoms but at most 30 carbon atoms. The carbon atoms may be arranged linearly, branched, or cyclically, and the hydrocarbon-based radical may be saturated or unsaturated.

[0075] According to a particularly preferred form, R3 is linear, and the hydroxyl group is located on an end carbon: that is to say, the monoalcohol is primary. Among the monoalcohols that can be used to prepare the ETPEA resin, we can mention 1-dodecanol, 1-tetradecanol, 1-hexadecanol (cetyl alcohol), 1-octadecanol (stearyl alcohol), 1-eicosanol (arachidyl alcohol) and 1-docosanol (behenyl alcohol).

[0076] The reactive monoalcohol may contain an alkylene group, that is to say an alkyl group with an unsaturation between two adjacent carbon atoms.

[0077] Another reactive monoalcohol that can be used according to the invention may be a Guerbet alcohol of formula: HC(Ra)(Rb)-CH2-OH where Ra and Rb, which may be identical or different, preferably designate a C6-C12 hydrocarbon-based group. Guerbet alcohols are described in particular in the book "Dictionary For Auxiliaries For Pharmacy, Cosmetics And Related Fields", H.P. Fiedler, 3rd Ed., 1989, Cantor Aulendorf. Hexadecyloctadecanol-2, having 24 carbon atoms, will be used in particular and preferably.

[0078] Another type of reactive monoalcohol that can be used according to the invention is a linear alcoholic wax. Among the linear alcoholic waxes available on the market are the products sold under the Unilin brand by Petrolite Corporation (Tulsa, Oklahoma). These linear alcoholic waxes are generally a mixture of linear alcohols comprising at least 20 carbon atoms and, more particularly, at least 24 carbon atoms.

[0079] Vapor-pressure osmometry (VPO) can be used to characterize the number-average molecular weight of a mixture of alcohols. In a particular form, the mixture of linear monoalcoholic waxes has a number-average molecular weight measured by VPO of approximately 200 to approximately 800, preferably approximately 300 to approximately 600. A pure C22 monohydric linear alcohol has a molecular weight measured by VPO of 326.

[0080] In accordance with the present invention, a pure monoalcohol or a mixture of linear monoalcohols such as, for example: 1-eicosanol (C20), 1-docosanol (C22, behenyl alcohol), dotriacontanol (C32), tetratriacontanol (C34), pentatriacontanol (C35), tetracontanol (C40), tetraacontanol (C44), dopentaacontanol (C54), tetrahexaacontanol (C64), dohexaacontanol (C72) will preferably be used.

[0081] 1-Octadecanol, more commonly known as stearyl alcohol, will be used in particular and preferably.

[0082] A final ingredient required for the preparation of ETPEA resin is a polyol or polyhydric alcohol. The structure of the polyol is: IL(OH)n where R4 denotes an n-valent organic group. For example, Ri can be a C2-C2O organic group without hydroxyl substitution. As another example, R4 can be a hydrocarbon-based group; n is generally equal to 2, 3, 4, 5, or 6.

[0083] Among the polyols that can be used according to the invention, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol, trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, neopentyl glycol, tris(hydroxymethyl)methanol, dipentaerythritol and tripentaerythritol may be mentioned.

[0084] Preferably, neopentyl glycol will be used in particular.

[0085] Reagents equivalent to diacids and / or reagents equivalent to diamines can also be used to prepare the ETPEA resin. For example, diesters can be used in place of some or all of the diacids of the The reaction forming the ETPEA resin. The term "diester" is intended to designate any esterification product of a diacid with molecules containing a hydroxyl group. These diesters are preferably obtained from relatively volatile molecules containing hydroxyl groups so that these molecules can be easily removed from the reaction vessel after the reaction of the monoalcohol and / or diamine with the diester. A lower diester, in particular an esterification or diesterification product of a diacid as defined above with a Ci-C4 monoalcohol (i.e., methanol, ethanol, propanol, and butanol), may be used in place of some or all of the diacids in the reaction forming the ETPEA resin. Acid halides may also be used in place of some or all of the diacids in the reaction forming the ETPEA resin.Similarly, the monoalcohol can be esterified with a volatile diacid, for example acetic acid, before being used in the reaction forming the ETPEA resin. These equivalent reagents are not, however, preferential since they introduce reactive groups into the reaction vessel.

[0086] Preferably, the carboxylic acid equivalents should be substantially equal to the combined hydroxyl equivalents introduced by the monoalcohol and the polyol, and the amine equivalents introduced by the diamine. In other words, each of the acid and amine values ​​of the resin according to the invention is preferably less than 25, more preferably less than 15, and more particularly less than 10, more particularly less than 5.

[0087] When a co-diacid is used to prepare the ETPEA resin, the co-diacid does not represent more than 50% of the carboxylic acid equivalents in the reaction mixture. In other words, the co-diacid represents from 0 to 50% of the equivalents, more preferably from 0 to 25%, and even more preferably from 0 to 10% of the acid equivalents in the reaction mixture.

[0088] When a co-diamine is used to prepare the ETPEA resin, the co-diamine does not represent more than 50% of the diamine equivalents in the reaction mixture. In other words, the co-diamine represents from 0 to 50% of the equivalents, more preferably from 0 to 25%, and even more preferably from 0 to 10% of the diamines in the reaction mixture.

[0089] The hydroxyl equivalents from the polyol are preferably less than or equal to 50% relative to all the hydroxyl and amine equivalents introduced by the polyol, monoalcohol, and diamine reagents. According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the hydroxyl equivalents from the polyol may be less than or equal to 40%, or less than or equal to 30%, or even less than or equal to 20% relative to all the hydroxyl and amine equivalents introduced by the polyol, monoalcohol, and diamine reagents.

[0090] The amine equivalents preferably range from 0.3 to 0.75 relative to all the hydroxyl and amine equivalents introduced by the polyol, monoalcohol, and diamine reagents. According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the hydroxyl equivalents from the polyol range from 0.05 to 0.45 relative to all the hydroxyl and amine equivalents introduced by the polyol, monoalcohol, and diamine reagents. According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the hydroxyl equivalents from the monoalcohol range from 0.20 to 0.45 relative to all the hydroxyl and amine equivalents introduced by the polyol, monoalcohol, and diamine reagents.

[0091] Preferably, the ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) polymer is selected from copolymers of hydrogenated dilinoleic acid, ethylenediamine, C2-C6 glycol and C10-C22 monoalcohol.

[0092] In particular, an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) polymer with the INCI name Polyamide-8 will be used, which is a copolymer of hydrogenated dilinoleic acid, ethylenediamine, neopentyl glycol, and stearyl alcohol. This copolymer is sold, in particular, under the trade name Oleocrapht® LP-20-PA by the company Croda.

[0093] Hydrogenated block copolymers of styrene and olefin

[0094] Examples of olefins that can be used include ethylenic carbide monomers, in particular containing one or two ethylenic unsaturations, containing 2 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethylene, propylene, butylene, butadiene or isoprene.

[0095] The block polymer type polymer thickener is hydrogenated to reduce residual ethylenic unsaturations after polymerization of the monomers.

[0096] In a particular embodiment, the thickener is a hydrogenated diblock copolymer bearing styrene blocks and C2-C4 ethylene / alkylene blocks, more specifically a hydrogenated diblock copolymer bearing styrene blocks and ethylene / propylene (INCI: styrene / isoprene copolymer) or ethylene / butylene blocks. Hydrogenated diblock copolymers bearing styrene and ethylene / butadiene blocks may also be mentioned. These diblock polymers are commercially available under the name Kraton G1701 from Kraton Polymers.

[0097] The thickener may also be a hydrogenated triblock copolymer of styrene-ethylene / propylene-styrene, styrene-ethylene / butadiene-styrene, styrene-isoprene-styrene, or styrene-butadiene-styrene. These triblock polymers are commercially available under the names Kraton® G1650, Kraton® G1652, Kraton® DI 101, Kraton® DI 102, and Kraton® DI 160 from Kraton Polymers.

[0098] A mixture of hydrogenated styrene-butylene / ethylene-styrene triblock copolymer and hydrogenated ethylene-propylene-styrene star polymer can also be used, such a mixture being notably found in isododecane. These mixtures are sold, for example, by Penreco under the trade names Versagel® M5960 and Versagel® M5670.

[0099] Preferably, the thickeners are chosen from hydrogenated dilinoleic acid, ethylenediamine, C2-C6 glycol and C10-C22 monoalcohol copolymers, hydrogenated diblock copolymers bearing styrene blocks and C2-C4 ethylene / alkylene blocks, more particularly hydrogenated copolymers bearing styrene blocks and ethylene / ethylene or ethylene / propylene or ethylene / butylene blocks, and mixtures thereof.

[0100] More preferably, the thickener is chosen from a hydrogenated styrene / isoprene copolymer, a hydrogenated styrene / butadiene copolymer, a bis-stearyl ethylenediamine / neopentyl glycol / dilinoleate hydrogenated stearyl dimer copolymer, and mixtures thereof.

[0101] The thickener suitable for the present invention is highly compatible with the oil used in the composition of the present invention so as to deliver an appropriate viscosity.

[0102] Advantageously, the thickener is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 10% by weight, more preferably from 2% by weight to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Fatty acid ester oils

[0103] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention further comprises at least one fatty acid ester oil.

[0104] Advantageously, the fatty acid ester oil is selected from liquid monoesters of C3-C26 branched aliphatic monoacids or polyacids, saturated or unsaturated, and of C3-C26 branched aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, saturated or unsaturated.

[0105] In the context of the present invention, the term "oil" refers to a fatty substance which is in liquid form at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0106] Preferably, the fatty acid ester oil of the present invention consists of liquid monoesters of branched C3-C26 aliphatic monoacids, saturated or unsaturated, and of branched C3-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols, saturated or unsaturated, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters preferably being greater than or equal to 10, and preferably less than or equal to 30.

[0107] Preferably, the fatty acid ester oil consists of liquid monoesters of branched C3-C22 aliphatic monoacids, saturated or unsaturated, and of branched C3-C20 aliphatic monoalcohols, saturated or unsaturated. More preferably, the fatty acid ester oil consists of liquid monoesters of branched, saturated C6-C20 aliphatic monoacids and of branched, saturated C3-C6 aliphatic monoalcohols.

[0108] Preferred esters can respond to the following formula:

[0109] Ri-C(=O)-O-R2

[0110] wherein Ri represents a branched radical, preferably a branched alkyl radical, of 3 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably of 6 to 20 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a branched radical, preferably a branched alkyl radical, of 3 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably of 3 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0111] Preferably, the total number of carbon atoms in Ri + R2 can be 9 or more, preferably 12 or more, more preferably 16 or more, and most preferably 20 or more.

[0112] Esters may be, for example, hexanoate, nonanoate, isonanoate, caprates, laurates, myristates, palmitates, stearates, isostearates, behenates, and mixtures thereof.

[0113] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl isostearate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate and isononyl isononanoate may be mentioned.

[0114] Examples of preferred fatty acid ester oils include, for example, isohexyl laurate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0115] The most preferred fatty acid ester oil is isopropyl isostearate.

[0116] The presence of fatty acid ester oil can further enhance the revitalizing effect without a greasy feeling to the touch.

[0117] Advantageously, the fatty acid ester oil is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 40% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 30% by weight, more preferably from 2% by weight to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0118] Linear C15-C19 alkanes and branched C17-C19 alkanes

[0119] In some preferred embodiments, the composition of the present invention further comprises a linear C15-C19 alkane and / or a branched C17-C19 alkane, in particular, a branched C17-C19 alkane.

[0120] Advantageously, where appropriate, the linear C15-19 alkane and / or the branched C17-C19 alkane, in particular the branched C17-C19 alkane, is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 2% by weight to 50% by weight, preferably from 5% by weight to 40% by weight, more preferably from 10% by weight to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Active cosmetic ingredients

[0121] Optionally, the composition of the present invention may include other active cosmetic ingredients for hair revitalization.

[0122] A person skilled in the art may select the quantity of other cosmetic active ingredients according to the end use of the composition according to the present invention. Adjuvants

[0123] The composition according to the present invention may also include one or more cosmetic adjuvants.

[0124] For example, the composition may include one or more adjuvants well known in the art, such as antioxidants, pH correctors and preservatives.

[0125] A person skilled in the art can select the cosmetic adjuvants and their quantities in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the invention are not, or substantially not, negatively affected by the envisaged addition or additions.

[0126] According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a silicone-free composition, preferably for hair conditioning, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a. from 20% by weight to 80% by weight of at least one volatile alkane chosen from linear C7-Ci4 alkanes, branched C8-Ci6 alkanes, and mixtures thereof; b. from 1% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one fatty compound with the structure R-OH, in which R represents a linear alkyl group comprising 12 to 16 carbon atoms; and c. 2% by weight to 8% by weight of at least one thickener selected from a hydrogenated styrene / isoprene copolymer, a hydrogenated styrene / butadiene copolymer, a bis-stearyl ethylenediamine / neopentyl glycol / stearyl dilinoleate hydrogenated dimer copolymer, and mixtures thereof.

[0127] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is anhydrous.

[0128] As used here, the term "anhydrous" means that the composition contains less than 2% by weight and preferably less than 1% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably containing no water. Where applicable, the Small amounts of water may be supplied by ingredients in the composition which contain it in residual quantities but are not deliberately supplied. Preparation and use

[0129] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing ingredients a) to c), as essential ingredients, together with one or more additional ingredients, as explained above.

[0130] The method and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.

[0131] Although the composition according to the present invention does not include silicone, it can deliver a wet / dry conditioning / cosmetic effect similar to that of silicone-based oil compositions.

[0132] The composition according to the present invention can be used as a rinse-out or leave-in conditioning product for hair care.

[0133] According to the second aspect, the present invention proposes a hair revitalization process comprising the application of the composition as described above to the hair. EXAMPLES

[0134] The following examples are given by way of illustration of the present invention and shall not be construed as limiting the scope.

[0135] The main raw materials used, their trade names and their suppliers are listed in Table 1.

[0136] [Tables 1] INCI Name Trade Name Supplier Undecane (and) tridecane CETIOL® ULTIMA TE BASF Lauryl alcohol ECOROL 26 / MB ECOGREEN OLEOCHEMIC ALS Lauric acid EDENOR C12-99 MY RSPO MB EDENOR TECHNOLOGY Isopropyl isostearate Radia 7739 OLEON Hydrogenated styrene / isoprene copolymer ELLAMERA BI T HIN 602 KRATON POLYMERS Caprylic / capric triglyceride (Caprylic / capric triglycer ide) DUB MCT 7030 / MB STEARINERIE DUBOIS Dextrin palmitate (Dextrin Palmitate) RHEOPEARL TL2-OR CHIBA FLOUR MILLING Polyamide-8 OleoCraft LP-20 CRODA Dimethicone (Dimethicone) (600000 est) BELSIL DM 60000 WACKER

[0137] Inventive Examples 1 to 5 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4

[0138] The compositions of Inventive Examples (IE) 1 to 5 and Comparative Examples (CE) 1 to 4 were prepared with the ingredients listed in Table 2 (the contents are expressed as percentages by weight of ingredients relative to the total weight of each composition, unless otherwise indicated).

[0139] [Tables2] Components El. 1 El. 2 EI.3 EI.4 EI.5 EC. 1 EC. 2 CE. 3 EC. 4 Phase A Undecane (and) tridecane QPS 100 QPS 100 QPS 100 QPS 100 QPS 100 QPS 100 QPS 100 QPS 100 QPS 100 Isohexadecane 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 Phase B Lauryl alcohol 3.5 3.5 3.0 3.5 3.0 3.5 3.5 0 0 Oleyl alcohol 0 0 0.5 0 0 0 0 0 Lauric acid 0 0 0 0 0.5 0 0 0 Caprylic / capric triglyceride 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 3.5 0 Isopropyl isostearate (Isopropyl isostearate) 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 C15-19 Alkane 0 0 0 20 0 0 0 0 0 Hydrogenated Styrene / Isoprene Copolymer 4 0 4 4 4 0 0 4 4 Dextrin Palmitate 0 0 0 0 0 4 6 0 0 Polyamide-8* 0 5 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 Dimethicone (Dimethicone) (6000 00 est) 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 3.5

[0140] Polyamide-8* is a copolymer of Bis-stearyl ethylenediamine / neopenty] glycol / dilinoleate hydrogenated stearyl dimer.

[0141] The compositions of Inventive Examples 1 to 5 represent compositions according to the present invention.

[0142] The compositions of Comparative Examples 1 and 2 include dextrin palmitate instead of a thickener according to the present invention.

[0143] The composition of Comparative Example 3 includes a caprylic / capric triglyceride instead of at least one saturated fatty compound selected from fatty alcohols, fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.

[0144] The composition of Comparative Example 4 includes a silicone oil instead of at least one saturated fatty compound selected from fatty alcohols, fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.

[0145] Preparation procedure:

[0146] Each composition was prepared as follows:

[0147] - adding all the ingredients of phase B to a beaker, heating to 80 °C with Stir until a homogeneous mixture is obtained; and

[0148] - adding the ingredients of phase A to the beaker at room temperature with Stirring to obtain a homogeneous mixture.

[0149] Evaluation:

[0150] The compositions prepared above were evaluated in terms of stability, revitalizing effect and feeling of lightness. Stability

[0151] The appearance and odor of each composition prepared above were checked after storage at -10°C for 24 hours, 4°C and 45°C for 2 months and 50°C for 2 weeks.

[0152] In the absence of any obvious difference in appearance and odor after storage, then the composition under test was considered stable; otherwise, the composition under test was considered unstable. Revitalizing effect and feeling of lightness

[0153] The revitalizing effect and the feeling of lightness delivered by each composition prepared above were evaluated as follows.

[0154] Strands of natural hair were washed with a silicone-free shampoo (0.4 g / per gram of hair strand) and towel-dried until no more water dripped off.

[0155] Next, 0.1 g of each composition obtained above was applied to a 6 g strand of hair evenly from the middle to the tips of the hair, respectively, followed by blow-drying.

[0156] Next, the revitalizing effect delivered by each composition was ranked from 1 to 5 by 4 experts trained according to the following standard, and then the average was calculated:

[0157] rank 1: nourishing and gentle sensation;

[0158] rank 2: oily smooth;

[0159] row 3: smooth;

[0160] rank 4: smooth but not moisturizing enough;

[0161] row 5: less smooth and dry.

[0162] Next, the sensation of lightness delivered by each composition was ranked from 1 to 5 by 4 experts trained according to the following standard, and then the average was calculated:

[0163] rank 1: light;

[0164] rank 2: a little oily;

[0165] rank 3: bold;

[0166] row 4: a little sticky;

[0167] row 5: sticky and stiff.

[0168] The results of stability, revitalizing effect and feeling of lightness have been summarized in Table 3.

[0169] [Tables3] Properties EI. 1 EI. 2 EI. 3 EI. 4 EI. 5 EC. 1 EC. 2 EC. 3 EC. 4 Revitalizing effect 1 2 1 1 1 3 3 2 2 Feeling of lightness 2 2 2 1 2 2 3 5 4 Stability at -10°C for 24 hours Stable Unstable Stability Stability at 4°C for 12 months Stable Unstable Stability Stability at 45°C for 2 months Stable Unstable Stability Stability at 50°C for 2 weeks Stable Unstable Stable

[0170] According to Table 3, it can be seen that each composition of Inventive Examples 1 to 5 is stable and can deliver a good revitalizing effect and a feeling of lightness, that is to say, it does not deliver a greasy feeling.

Claims

Demands

1. Silicone-free composition, preferably for hair conditioning, comprising: a) at least one volatile alkane; b) at least one fatty compound selected from saturated fatty alcohols, saturated fatty acids, and mixtures thereof; and c) at least one thickener selected from ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) polymers, hydrogenated block copolymers of styrene and olefin, and mixtures thereof.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the volatile alkane is selected from linear C7-Ci4 alkanes, branched C8-Ci6 alkanes, and mixtures thereof.

3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein the fatty compound is selected from linear or branched saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols, preferably from linear or branched saturated C8-C20 fatty alcohols, more preferably from linear C12-C20 fatty alcohols, most preferably from linear C12-C16 fatty alcohols.

4. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the thickener is selected from: - resins prepared by reacting a diacid, a diamine, a polyol and a monoalcohol in which: (i) at least 50% equivalents of said diacid comprise a polymerized fatty acid and (ii) at least 50% equivalents of said diamine comprise ethylenediamine; - hydrogenated diblock copolymers, bearing styrene blocks and C2-C4 ethylene / alkylene blocks, more particularly a hydrogenated diblock copolymer, bearing styrene blocks and ethylene / propylene or ethylene / butylene blocks; - hydrogenated diblock copolymers, bearing styrene and ethylene / butadiene blocks; - hydrogenated triblock copolymers of styrene-ethylene / propylene-styrene, styrene-ethylene / butadiene-styrene, styrene-isoprene-styrene or styrene-butadiene-styrene;- a mixture of hydrogenated triblock styrene-butylene / ethylene-styrene copolymer and hydrogenated ethylene-propylene-styrene star polymer; and; - their mixtures.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the thickener is selected from hydrogenated dilinoleic acid, ethylenediamine, C2-C6 glycol monoalcohol and C10-C22 monoalcohol copolymers, hydrogenated diblock copolymers bearing styrene blocks and C2-C4 ethylene / alkylene blocks, and mixtures thereof, preferably the thickener is selected from a hydrogenated styrene / isoprene copolymer, a hydrogenated styrene / butadiene copolymer, a bis-stearyl ethylenediamine / neopentyl glycol / hydrogenated stearyl dilinoleate dimer copolymer, and mixtures thereof.

6. Composition according to claim 1, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a) 20% to 80% by weight of at least one volatile alkane selected from linear C7-Ci4 alkanes, branched C8-Ci6 alkanes, and mixtures thereof; b) 1% to 10% by weight of at least one fatty compound of R-OH structure, wherein R represents a linear alkyl group comprising 12 to 16 carbon atoms; and c) 2% to 8% by weight of at least one thickener selected from a hydrogenated styrene / isoprene copolymer, a hydrogenated styrene / butadiene copolymer, a hydrogenated bis-stearyl ethylenediamine / neopentyl glycol / stearyl dilinoleate copolymer, and mixtures thereof.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, further comprising at least one fatty acid ester oil, preferably selected from liquid monoesters of branched C3-C22 aliphatic monoacids, saturated or unsaturated, and of branched C3-C2o aliphatic monoalcohols, saturated or unsaturated, preferably the fatty acid ester oil is selected from liquid monoesters of saturated linear or branched C6-C2o aliphatic monoacids and of branched saturated C3-C6 aliphatic monoalcohols.

8. Composition according to claim 7, wherein the fatty acid ester oil is selected from isohexyl laurate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, and mixtures thereof, preferably the fatty acid ester oil is isopropyl isostearate. 22

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, which is anhydrous.

10. A method for revitalizing hair by applying the composition according to any one of the preceding claims.