Hydrogel, cosmetic composition, container and preparation process

Abstract

Hydrogel, cosmetic composition, container, and preparation method. The invention relates to a hydrogel for formulating a cosmetic composition and to a cosmetic composition for skincare containing it. The hydrogel has a non-therapeutic cosmetic effect of activating the skin's normal biological function and comprises natural glycerin, a carbomer, natural caprylyl glycol, at least one natural polyol comprising 3 to 6 carbon atoms, and water. The invention also relates to the manufacturing method for the cosmetic composition, which includes a step of preparing the hydrogel.

Description

Title of the invention: Hydrogel, cosmetic composition, container and preparation method technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a hydrogel comprising glycerin and a carbomer. This hydrogel has properties that activate the biological function of skin cells and is applicable in the formulation of cosmetic products applied topically. Previous technique

[0002] Several cosmetic aqueous gels combining synthetic compounds have been described in the prior art for their skin care properties, including their moisturizing and antimicrobial power.

[0003] These gels may have a sticky quality. However, some users find the stickiness of a product on the skin unacceptable, and consumers of cosmetic products are often looking for formulas whose deposit remains imperceptible to the sight and touch in order to preserve a "bare skin" sensation.

[0004] Furthermore, consumers appreciate being able to see the color of a product through its packaging, and their perception of a transparent product conveys a sense of naturalness. Moreover, the opaque or translucent nature of a hydrogel used as an intermediate in the preparation of a cosmetic product can limit formulation possibilities, as it alters the color of the final product and does not allow for a transparent product itself. However, some prior art hydrogels lack transparency.

[0005] Finally, prior art glycerin-based hydrogels contain large proportions of non-natural ingredients, which are essential for formulating to guarantee cosmetic performance, sensory properties, or stability over time. These synthetic ingredients include thickeners, emulsifiers, surfactants, solvents, or preservatives such as polyethylene glycols (PEG), propylene glycol (IUP name AC 1,2-propanediol and INCI name PROPYLENE GLYCOL), pentylene glycol, parabens, silicones, or ethoxydiglycol.

[0006] It is desirable to offer more natural cosmetic compositions that possess the efficacy and sensory qualities expected by the consumer, or even that exhibit efficacy and sensory qualities at least equivalent to those of prior art products containing synthetic ingredients. However, the formulator faces difficulties when it comes to removing materials the first classics, and the gain in naturalness comes at the expense of performance, organoleptic properties or the stability of the cosmetic product.

[0007] To address the various problems mentioned above, the Applicant proposes a more natural hydrogel composition based on natural glycerin and natural polyols, the properties of which are at least equivalent to, or even improved upon, those of prior art hydrogels containing synthetic ingredients. Description of the invention

[0008] A first object of the invention therefore relates to a hydrogel for the formulation of a cosmetic composition comprising: - 40% to 60% natural glycerin and 0.5% to 1% of at least one carbomer, the natural glycerin and the carbomer preferably forming a cross-linked glycerin poly(meth)acrylate; - 2% to 10% natural caprylyl glycol; - 10% to 20% of at least one natural polyol, other than glycerin, comprising 3 to 6 carbon atoms; and - water, the percentages being expressed by mass relative to the mass of the hydrogel.

[0009] A second object of the invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic use of the hydrogel, to produce at least a non-therapeutic cosmetic effect of activating the proper biological functioning of healthy skin.

[0010] A third object of the invention relates to a cosmetic skin care composition for topical application comprising the hydrogel associated with at least one cosmetic ingredient having at least one function selected from the group consisting of solvent, emulsifier, perfume, thickener, film-forming agent, emollient, humectant, colouring matter, texturizing agent, and active ingredient.

[0011] A fourth object of the invention relates to a method for manufacturing hydrogel characterized in that it comprises: - a step involving mixing natural glycerin and carbomer with water, - followed by a step of adding to the previous mixture natural polyol, natural caprylyl glycol and possibly a base. Description of the implementation methods

[0012] A first object of the invention therefore relates to a hydrogel for the formulation of a cosmetic composition, the hydrogel being essentially composed of: - 40% to 60% natural glycerin and 0.5% to 1% of at least one carbomer, the natural glycerin and the carbomer preferably forming a cross-linked glycerin poly(meth)acrylate; - 2% to 10% natural caprylyl glycol; - 10% to 20% of at least one natural polyol, other than glycerin, comprising 3 to 6 carbon atoms, for example 10% to 20% of at least two natural polyols including natural propanediol and natural sorbitol; and - water, the percentages being expressed by mass relative to the mass of the hydrogel.

[0013] The hydrogel of the invention offers numerous advantages. It was discovered, quite unexpectedly and surprisingly, that the hydrogel according to the invention possesses sensory properties equivalent to, or even improved upon, those of prior art hydrogels. In certain embodiments, the hydrogel is more transparent and leaves a feeling of lightness on the skin because it is less sticky. It can be composed primarily of natural ingredients without diminishing its skincare performance. Furthermore, the hydrogel increases the osmolarity of the dermal tissues, which becomes higher than that of the blood capillaries. This difference in osmolarity leads to the diffusion of water from the blood capillaries to the dermal tissues, and an increase in skin hydration. Finally, the hydrogel of the invention may advantageously contain no synthetic preservatives.

[0014] The term "hydrogel" refers to a composition having the consistency of a gel and containing water. The hydrogel can be used as an ingredient to manufacture a cosmetic composition and, in this context, can be solubilized in water added during the preparation process of the composition.

[0015] Natural glycerin, also called natural glycerol (IUP designation AC propane-1,2,3-triol, and INCI designation GLYCERIN), can be vegetable glycerin obtained from a vegetable oil by processes known to those skilled in the art, such as transesterification, saponification, or the fermentation of sugars. Generally, the natural polyols used in the context of the invention can be obtained by the fermentation of natural sugars.

[0016] Natural glycerin represents 40% to 60%, for example 45% to 55% of the hydrogel.

[0017] The “INCI name” corresponds to the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI), the directory of which can be consulted on the website https: / / ec.europa.eu / growth / tools-databases / cosing / .

[0018] The term “carbomer” refers to the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredient (INCI) name CARBOMER for a crosslinked poly(meth)acrylic acid. Carbomers are compounds well known to those skilled in the art. They are polymers of (meth)acrylic acid crosslinked by one or more allylic polyol ethers, such as, for example, pentaerythritol allylic ether, sucrose allylic ether, or propylene glycol allylic ether. Such carbomers are commercially available under the references Carbopol® 940, Carbopol® 980, Carbopol® 981, and Carbopol® 984, among others.

[0019] In the hydrogel of the invention, glycerin and carbomer advantageously form a particular cross-linked molecular structure, called cross-linked glycerin poly(meth)acrylate (which may also be called cross-linked glyceryl polyacrylate or cross-linked polyglyceryl acrylate). The carbomer can be neutralized by a base selected from sodium hydroxide (INCI name SODIUM HYDROXIDE), potassium hydroxide, or triethanolamine. Cross-linked glycerin poly(meth)acrylate is obtained by mixing glycerin and carbomer in water in the absence of any other chemical compound, and then neutralizing the mixture with a base as described above. Glyceryl poly(meth)acrylate can be cross-linked glyceryl polyacrylate or cross-linked glyceryl polymethacrylate.The mass ratio between carbomer and glycerin which are used to prepare glycerin poly(meth)acrylate, or which are contained in the hydrogel, is preferably between 5 / 100 and 20 / 100, preferably still between 10 / 100 and 15 / 100.

[0020] The term "polyol" means a compound consisting of carbon atoms, hydrogen atoms and at least two alcohol functions, the compound being different from glycerin.

[0021] The natural polyol comprising 3 to 6 carbon atoms. It can be, for example, propanediol (also called 1,3-propanediol, IUP name AC propan-1,3-diol, INCI name PROPANEDIOL) or butanediol (IUP name AC butane-1,3-diol, INCI name BUTYLENE GLYCOL).

[0022] In a particular embodiment of the invention, the natural polyol is propanediol. Propanediol can represent from 10% to 20% of the hydrogel, for example from 10% to 15%.

[0023] The natural polyol can also be chosen from sugars found in nature such as sorbitol (INCI name SORBITOL), xylitol (INCI name XYLITOL), mannitol (INCI name MANNITOL) and erythritol (INCI name ERYTHRITOL).

[0024] In a particular embodiment, the hydrogel comprises 10% to 20% of at least two natural polyols, including propanediol and sorbitol. The hydrogel It may contain 10% to 20%, for example 12% to 16%, of a mixture of propanediol and sorbitol. For example, the hydrogel contains 11% to 14% propanediol and 1% to 2% sorbitol.

[0025] Natural caprylyl glycol is also known as 1,2-octanediol (IUPAC octane-1,2-diol, INCI name CAPRYLYL GLYCOL). It represents 2% to 10% of the hydrogel, for example 4% to 8%.

[0026] For the purposes of this invention, "natural" means a cosmetic ingredient defined as natural or of natural origin by ISO 16128 (International Organization for Standardization 16128, "Organisation Internationale pour la Normalisation 16128" in French), which standard provides guidelines relating to technical definitions (part 1) and criteria (part 2) applicable to natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products.

[0027] According to ISO Standard 16128 and for the purposes of the present invention, a so-called "natural" ingredient is an ingredient whose naturalness index is equal to 1. Natural ingredients are obtained exclusively from plants (including fungi and algae), animals, microorganisms or minerals, including ingredients obtained from these materials resulting from (i) physical processes (such as grinding, drying, distillation), (ii) fermentation reactions existing in nature and leading to molecules existing in the natural state, and (iii) other methods of preparation, including traditional methods (for example, extraction using solvents) without any intention of chemically altering the ingredient.

[0028] According to ISO 16128 and for the purposes of this invention, an "ingredient derived from natural materials" or "ingredient of natural origin" means an ingredient having a naturalness index strictly greater than 0.5 and less than or equal to 1. A cosmetic ingredient of natural origin is obtained by defined chemical and / or biological processes aimed at chemically modifying them, either in their molecular structure or in their composition. The use of enzymatic and microbiological processes can also result in ingredients derived from natural materials when an intentional chemical modification takes place.Chemical and / or biological processes can be chosen from among acylation, addition, C, O, N alkylation, calcination, carbonization, carbonation, condensation, enzymatic and microbiological processes, glycosylation, hydrogenation, hydrogenolysis, hydrolysis, ion exchange, olefin metathesis, oxidation, phosphorylation, reduction, or sulfation. The naturalness index of a naturally derived ingredient is calculated based on the proportion of the ingredient that is natural, starting, for example, from the molecular weight or the renewable carbon content.

[0029] In the case where the molecular mass of the naturally sourced ingredient is known, it is appropriate to calculate the quotient (molecular mass of the natural fraction) / (mass (molecular mass of the entire molecule). If the exact molecular mass of the ingredient is unknown, the following calculation should be performed: (mn-mne) / (ma-m as), where mn is the initial mass of natural raw materials, mne is the initial mass of excess raw materials, ma is the initial mass of all raw materials, and mas is the initial mass of all excess raw materials. The term "excess" refers to the quantity of initial raw material that is subsequently recycled or disposed of. Note that the naturalness index value of a cosmetic ingredient can be provided by the supplier.

[0030] A “natural” ingredient within the meaning of the invention can be an ingredient whose naturalness index is greater than 0.80 and less than 1 (ingredient defined by ISO 16128 as an ingredient of natural origin) or an ingredient whose naturalness index is equal to 1 (ingredient defined by ISO 16128 as a natural ingredient).

[0031] The hydrogel of the invention may essentially consist of natural glycerin, natural caprylyl glycol, natural polyol(s) comprising 3 to 6 carbon atoms different from glycerin, and water. "Essentially consisting of" means a hydrogel comprising the explicitly mentioned ingredients, but also other ingredients, provided that the latter do not alter the functionality and properties of the hydrogel. Such a hydrogel may optionally contain impurities originating from the raw materials used in its manufacture. Thus, a hydrogel of the invention is essentially composed of natural glycerin, natural caprylyl glycol, natural polyol(s) comprising 3 to 6 carbon atoms different from glycerin, and water, when the sum of the percentages of these ingredients is greater than or equal to a value chosen from the group consisting of 90%, 92%, 94%, 96%, and 98%.

[0032] The hydrogel may further include hydrotropic agents, co-solvents, active ingredient carriers such as liposomes, or molecules that increase the skin penetration of active ingredients.

[0033] In a particular embodiment, the hydrogel contains dimethyl isosorbide. The hydrogel can essentially consist of natural glycerin, natural caprylyl glycol, natural polyol(s) comprising 3 to 6 carbon atoms different from glycerin, dimethyl isosorbide and water, in the sense that the sum of the percentages of these ingredients is greater than or equal to a value chosen from the group consisting of 90%, 92%, 94%, 96% and 98%.

[0034] In a particular embodiment of the invention, the hydrogel according to the invention comprises, in addition to the ingredients described above, 5% to 7% isosorbide of dimethyl. Of course, this percentage is in ounces relative to the mass of the hydrogel.

[0035] A particular hydrogel of the invention contains or is essentially composed of 45% to 55% natural glycerin (INCI name GLYCERIN); 11% to 14% natural propanediol (INCI name PROPANEDIOL); 1% to 2% natural sorbitol (INCI name SORBITOL); 4% to 8% natural caprylyl glycol (INCI name CAPRYLYL GLYCOL); 5% to 7% dimethyl isosorbide (INCI name DIMETHYL ISOSORBIDE); and water, the percentages being expressed by mass relative to the mass of the hydrogel.

[0036] In a particular embodiment, the hydrogel is essentially made up of, or made up of, 48% to 52% natural glycerin and 0.7% to 0.9% of at least one carbomer, the glycerin and the carbomer preferably forming a crosslinked glyceryl poly(meth)acrylate; 12% to 13% natural propanediol; 1.2% to 1.8% natural sorbitol; 5% to 7% natural caprylyl glycol; 5.8% to 6.3% dimethyl isosorbide; and 15% to 28% water, the percentages being by mass relative to the mass of the hydrogel.

[0037] The hydrogel advantageously contains, in addition to glycerin, polyol, caprylyl glycol, and water, less than 10% by mass of natural ingredient(s) whose naturalness index is less than 1.

[0038] The hydrogel is advantageously free of synthetic ingredients, including polyethylene glycols, preservatives such as parabens and phenoxyethanol, sodium laureth sulfate, and ethoxydiglycol, which are described in the prior art as essential ingredients in hydrogel formulations. The hydrogel is also advantageously free of silicones and petroleum-derived mineral compounds such as paraffin oil, microcrystalline wax, or polybutene.

[0039] It has been discovered surprisingly that a hydrogel with very good sensory application properties and very good efficacy on the skin can be obtained by essentially formulating cosmetic raw materials with a naturalness index greater than 0.8, preferably equal to 1. The selection of cosmetic raw materials with a naturalness index greater than or equal to 0.80, and their joint formulation in particular proportions has unexpectedly led to the hydrogel of the invention.

[0040] The hydrogel of the invention has many advantages. It is stable over time, has excellent skin tolerance, is essentially made up of natural ingredients without diminishing skin care performance, its transparency can be higher and its application to the skin can be more pleasant, particularly with regard to the sticky feeling that known hydrogels can generate.

[0041] The hydrogel according to the invention can be characterized by a natural or naturally derived content, which is advantageously greater than or equal to a value chosen from the group consisting of 80%, 85%, 90%, 95%, 96%, 97%, and 98%. According to ISO 16128 and for the purposes of the present invention, the "natural or naturally derived content" of a product means an index that depends on the percentage of natural ingredients as defined in the standard and the percentage of naturally derived ingredients as defined in the standard in the product. The calculation of the natural or naturally derived content is an average of the ingredient concentrations weighted by the naturalness index of the ingredients. The natural or naturally derived content is equal to [0042 1

[0043] where is the natural or naturally derived content of the product, Pa is the mass percentage of each ingredient a, and is the naturalness index of each ingredient a.

[0044] A second object of the invention relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of the hydrogel according to the invention, to produce at least one non-therapeutic cosmetic effect of activating the proper biological functioning of healthy skin.

[0045] In some embodiments, the activation effect is chosen from the group consisting of an increase in the production of collagen and elastin by the skin, an increase in the skin hydration rate, a decrease in skin redness, an increase in protection against microbial aggressions, an increase in hair growth and a decrease in age spots.

[0046] The cosmetic use of the hydrogel is not therapeutic.

[0047] A "non-therapeutic cosmetic use" within the meaning of the invention is the topical application of the hydrogel to healthy skin that is not affected by a disease such as, for example, inflammation, microbial infection, psoriasis, eczema, acne, or dermatitis. The cosmetic use of the hydrogel according to the invention is not intended for the treatment or prevention of a skin disease, even if it has an activating effect on one of its biological functions.

[0048] For the purposes of the invention, "good biological functioning" means biological functioning in a subject not exhibiting any disease in the medical sense of the term that is likely to affect the normal biological functioning of the subject (also called "healthy subject").

[0049] For the purposes of the invention, "healthy skin" means skin that does not present any disease as defined in the medical sense of the term. The hydrogel is particularly suitable for healthy skin, which may be dull, dry, or wrinkled, and whose properties may have been degraded due to age, in particular due to repeated friction, or exposure to wind, cold, hard water, sea water, or heat.

[0050] For the purposes of this invention, an increase in the skin's cell repair process does not allow for the treatment or prevention of a disease such as, for example, psoriasis, lichen planus, scabies, or Darier's disease. A reduction in skin redness does not allow for the treatment or prevention of a disease such as, for example, rosacea, dermatomyositis, or erythrosis. An increase in protection against microbial aggression does not allow for the treatment or prevention of a disease such as, for example, erysipelas, necrotizing skin infection, or staphylococcal cellulitis. An increase in hair growth does not allow for the treatment or prevention of a disease such as, for example, dermatosis, keratosis pilaris, tinea capitis, or alopecia areata. An agent that reduces spots due to prolonged sun exposure does not allow for the treatment or prevention of a disease such as, for example, skin cancer.For the purposes of this invention, "prolonged sun exposure" means a period of exposure to the sun sufficient to lead to the appearance of spots on the skin.

[0051] According to the invention, age spots appear naturally with age and are amplified by UV exposure. The spots correspond to hyperpigmented areas of skin, flat or raised. The spots can be found on the skin, mucous membranes and / or semi-mucous membranes.

[0052] The non-therapeutic cosmetic effect of the hydrogel results in an aesthetic and / or sensory effect, such as an increase in the skin's elasticity, firmness, surface volume, suppleness, and / or softness. The cosmetic effect may also consist of making the skin appear or feel smoother, reducing feelings of tightness, improving comfort, increasing hair growth, and / or evening out skin tone.

[0053] The improvement in skin properties provided by the hydrogel can be demonstrated by any method known to a person skilled in the art.

[0054] A third object of the invention relates to a cosmetic skincare composition comprising the hydrogel described above, which is combined with at least one cosmetic ingredient having at least one function selected from the group consisting of solvent, emulsifier, perfume, thickener, film-forming agent, emollient, humectant, colorant, texturizing agent, and cosmetic active ingredient. A single cosmetic ingredient may have one or more functions. A cosmetic ingredient is an ingredient whose use is authorized in cosmetics; it may be listed in the INCI directory.

[0055] The term "skin" means any external surface of the body, including the skin of the face, as well as the scalp, mucous membranes and semi-mucous membranes. Therefore, " Topical application » any application to the skin, particularly the face, hands, neck, lip contour and eye contour; on the lips; on the scalp; on the arms, feet or legs. It can also be applied to the nasal mucous membranes.

[0056] The duration of topical application of the hydrogel or cosmetic composition can be limited, for example, from 15 to 90 minutes, from 25 to 70 minutes, and more preferably from 30 to 60 minutes, particularly in the case of a mask. The application time extends from the moment the product is applied to the skin until its removal, for example, by cleansing or wiping the skin.

[0057] The active ingredients that can be included in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are cosmetic agents and not therapeutic agents.

[0058] A "non-therapeutic agent" within the meaning of the invention is an agent that does not allow the treatment or prevention of a skin disease, even if the agent has an activating effect on one of its biological functions.

[0059] A cosmetic ingredient having an active principle function may be selected from the group consisting of a moisturizing agent, an anti-aging agent, an itch-soothing agent, a sunburn-soothing agent, an anti-redness agent, a hair growth-stimulating agent, a skin-firming agent, a skin-brightening agent and an agent for reducing spots due to prolonged sun exposure and / or due to aging, such as age spots.

[0060] For the purposes of this invention, an anti-itch agent cannot treat or prevent a disease such as, for example, eczema, urticaria, or psoriasis. A sunburn soothing agent cannot provide a treatment or preventative measure such as, for example, the repair of damaged DNA or the prevention of DNA damage, respectively. An anti-redness agent cannot treat or prevent an inflammatory disease such as, for example, rosacea, erythrosis, or dermatomyositis. A hair growth stimulant cannot treat or prevent a disease such as, for example, dermatosis, keratosis pilaris, tinea capitis, or alopecia areata. An agent that reduces spots due to prolonged sun exposure cannot treat or prevent a disease such as, for example, skin cancer.

[0061] For the purposes of the invention, "prolonged sun exposure" means a period of exposure to the sun sufficient to lead to the appearance of spots on the skin.

[0062] In certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises at least one cosmetic active ingredient selected from the group consisting of hyaluronic acid, salicylic acid, kojic acid, glycolic acid, azelaic acid, feruric acid, alpha-hydroxy acids, ellagic acid, tranexamic acid, phytic acid, tocopherol (vitamin E), ascorbic acid (vitamin C), niacinamide (vitamin B3), panthenol, retinol, hexylresorcinol, peptides, ceramides, collagen peptides, plant extracts, algae extracts, yeast extracts, coenzyme Q10 (ubiquinone), trace elements, alpha-arbutin and alpha-bisabolol, and their derivatives.

[0063] In some embodiments, the solvents may be chosen from water, alcohols (such as ethanol or glycols), and oils. The oils may, for example, be selected from the group consisting of vegetable oils, hydrocarbon oils such as polyisobutenes, and silicone oils, with vegetable oils being preferred. Examples of vegetable oils include sweet almond oil, jojoba oil, coconut oil, olive oil, avocado oil, castor oil, shea oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, argan oil, evening primrose oil, and borage oil.

[0064] The emulsifying ingredients may be selected from lecithins, beeswax, cetyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl oleate, cetearyl glucoside, sorbitan olivate, sodium stearoyl lactylate and their derivatives. We prefer to use natural or naturally derived emulsifying ingredients such as lecithin, hydrogenated lecithin, amino acid derivatives, beeswax, cetyl alcohol, rinulin lauryl carbamate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate citrate, cetearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, sorbitan olivate, sodium stearoyl lactylate, sucrose and fatty acid esters, alkyl polyglycosides, glyceryl stearate citrate, sodium lauroyl glutamate and sodium stearoyl glutamate.

[0065] The fragrances that may be included in the composition of the invention are preferably chosen from plant extracts such as flower extracts, fruit extracts, wood extracts, root extracts, resins, and their derivatives. However, synthetic fragrances may also be chosen. Examples of fragrances are selected from the group consisting of ambroxan, hedione, galaxolide, benzyl salicylate, coumarin, ionones, methyl dihydroxyjasmonate, and cashmeran.

[0066] The cosmetic composition may also include one or more thickeners or texturizing agents, which are advantageously water-soluble or water-dispersible gelling agents, such as native polysaccharides or polysaccharides modified by alkyl radicals, possibly hydroxylated. The thickeners or texturizing agents may be selected from vegetable gums such as xanthan gum, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar, gum arabic, locust bean gum, scleroglucan gums, cellulose gum, tara gum, acacia gum, tragacanth gum, karaya gum, and konjac gum. Other examples include natural starches, alginates, carrageenan, natural waxes, seaweed extracts, pectin, flaxseed flour and tapioca starch. Other examples include fructans, glucans, galactans, mannans, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, pullulans, dextran, celluloses, hemicellulose, methyl celluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, cetyl hydroxyethylcelluloses, mannans, xylans, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, galactomannans, pullulans, inulins, chitin, chitosan, glucuronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, and arabinogalactans.

[0067] The composition may also include synthetic thickeners and texturizing agents such as silicones and polyquatemiums, although it is preferable to use thickeners and texturizing agents whose naturalness index is close to 1, or equal to 1.

[0068] The ingredients with film-forming properties that can be used are similarly preferably natural or of natural origin, although synthetic polymers such as silicone polymers, polyurethanes, polyquatemiums and polyacrylates can also be incorporated.Among the ingredients likely to impart film-forming properties to the application of cosmetic compositions on the skin are Aloe vera gel, glycerin (which is then added to the hydrogel already containing natural glycerin), vegetable butters such as shea butter, and vegetable waxes such as carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricuri wax, sugar cane wax, jojoba wax, Trithrinax Campestris wax, raffia wax, alfalfa wax, Douglas fir wax, sisal wax, linseed wax, cotton wax, Batavia dammar wax, cereal wax, tea wax, coffee wax, rice bran wax, palm wax, Japanese wax, and sunflower seed wax.

[0069] Examples of humectant ingredients that can be added to the hydrogel to prepare the cosmetic composition include glycols, polyacrylamide, plant-derived hyaluronic acid, honey, aloe vera, natural amino acids such as the natural amino acid sodium PCA, and their derivatives. Some humectants can also fulfill the function of the active ingredient mentioned above.

[0070] The cosmetic composition may also include natural or synthetic coloring materials in the form of dyes, lacquers or pigments, including azo dyes, fluorescent dyes, colored plant extracts such as beetroot, carrot, turmeric, rose and saffron extracts, cyanobacteria extracts, natural iron oxides, micas, zinc oxide, anthocyanins, chlorophyll, Blue 1 Lake, Red 21 Lake, Blue 15 Lake, carmine, Red 30 Lake, aluminum powder and titanium dioxide, with natural coloring materials preferred.

[0071] The cosmetic composition may also include at least one ingredient whose INCI name is chosen from the group consisting of Acetyl Tributyl Citrate, Sucrose Laurate, Sucrose Cocoate, Arachis Hypogaea Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Brassica Campestris Seed Oil, Butyl Acetate, Butyl Stearate, Butylene Glycol Cocoate, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, C10-18 Triglycerides, C10-40 Isoalkyl Acid Triglycerides, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, C13-15 Alkane, C18-36 Acid Glycol Ester, C20-40 Alkyl Stearate, C8-C12 Acid Triglyceride, C9-12 Alkane, Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil, Camelina Sativa Seed Oil, Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil, Canola, Capric / Caprylic Triglycerinde, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, Caprylic / Capric / Succinic Triglyceride, Carapa Guaianensis Seed Oil, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, CASTOR ISOSTEARATE BEESWAX SUCCINATE, CASTOR ISOSTEARATE SUCCINATE,Cellulose Acetate Butyrate, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Cetearyl Glucoside, Cetearyl Isononanoate, Cetearyl Wheat Bran Glycosides, Cetyl Laurate, Cetyl Palmitate, Cetyl Ricinoleate, Cetyl Stéarate, Citronellyl Methylcrotonate, Coco-Caprylate / Caprate, Cocoglycerides, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Coffea Arabica Seed Oil, Corylus Avellana Seed Oil, Daucus Carota Sativa Seed Oil, Decyl Cocoate, Dextrin Palmitate, Dibutyl Adipate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Diethyl Phthalate, Diethyl Succinate, Diethylhexyl Carbonate, Diisopropyl Adipate, Diisopropyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Diisopropyl Sebacate, Diisostearyl Malate, DILINOLEIC ACID / PROPANEDIOL COPOLYMER, Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Dioctyl Adipate, Dipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystéarate / Hexastearate / Hexarosinate, Dipentaerythrityl Tetrahydroxystearate / Tetraisostearate, Dipentaerythrityl Tri-Polyhydroxystearate, Dipropylene Glycol Dibenzoate, Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Distearyl Phtalate, Elaeis Guineensis Oil, Ethyl Acetate, Ethyl Canolate,Ethyl Lactate, Ethyl Linoleate, Ethyl Oleate, Ethylhexyl Caprylate / Caprate, Ethylhexyl Cocoate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Ethylhexyl Polyhydroxystearate, Ethylhexyl Stéarate, Euphorbia Cerifera, Famesol, Garcinia Indica Seed Butter, Glycerol Triacetate, Glyceryl Behenate / Eicosadioate, Glyceryl Cocoate / Citrate / Lactate, Glyceryl Dilaurate, Glyceryl Ricinoleate, Glyceryl Tribehenate / Isostearate / Eicosandioate, Glycine Soja Oil, Glycol Palmitate, Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Heptyl Undecylenate, Hexyldecanol, Hexyldecyl Laurate, Hexyldecyl Stéarate, Hydrogenated Apricot Kernel Oil, Hydrogenated Castoir Oil Dimer Dilinoleate, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Hydrogenated Coconut Acid, Hydrogenated Coconut Oil, Hydrogenated Cottonseed , Oil, Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate, Hydrogenated Olive Oil UnsaponifiableS, Hydrogenated Myristyl Olive Esters, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Stearyl Esters, Hydrogenated Palm / PALM KERNEL Glycerides, Hydroxystearic / Linolenic / Oleic Polyglycerides, Isoamyl Laurate, Isocetyl Stéarate, Isocetyl Stearoyl Stéarate, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Isododecane, Isononyl Isononanoate, Isopropyl Isostearate, Isopropyl Myristate, Isopropyl Palmitate, Isostearyl Isostearate, Isostearyl Neopentanoate, Isostearyl Pca, Isotridecyl Isononanoate, Juglans Regia Seed Oil,, Lauryl / MYRISTYL PolyRicinoleate, Lauryl Glucoside (AND) Stearyl Citrate, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Linum Usitatissimum Oil, Lupinus Albus Seed Oil, Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Mangifera Indica Seed Butter, Mangifera Indica Seed Oil, Mauritia Flexuosa Fruit Oil, Menthyl Lactate, Methyl Glucose Caprate / Caprylate / Oleate, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Methyl Hydrogenated Rosinate, Methyl Méthacrylate Cross Polymer,Methyl Salicylate, Moringa Drouhardii Seed Oil, Myristyl Lactate, Neopentyl Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate, Neopentyl Glycol Diethyl Hexanoate, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Neopentyl Glycol Dipelargonate, Octyldodecyl Lactate, Octyldodecyl Myristate, Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate, Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stéarate, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Oenothera Biennis Seed Extract, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Oleic / Linoleic / Linolenic Polyglycerides, Oleyl Alcohol, Oleyl Erucate, Opuntia Ficus Indica Seed Oil, Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil, Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Oryza Sativa Germ Oil, Passiflore Edulis Seed Oil, Pca Glyceryl Oleate, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Pentaerythrityl Distearate, Pentaerythrityl Stearate / Caprate / Caprylate / Adipate, Pentaerythrityl Tetrabehenate, Pentaerythrityl Tetracaprylate / Tetracaprate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Perilla Ocymoides OIL, Persea Gratissima Oil, Pistacia Vera Seed Oil, Polyglyceryl-3 Stéarate, Polyglyceryl-10 Behenate / Eicosadioate,Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Tristearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Tetraisostearate, Polyglyceryl-2-Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, POLYGLYCERYL-4 OLEATE, POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE, Polyglyceryl-6-Distearate, Jojoba Esters, Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax, Cetyl Alcohol, PolyglyCeryl-2 Triisostearate, Propyl Acetate, Propylene Carbonate, Dicaprylate / Dicaprate, Propylheptyl Caprylate, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Prunus Armeniaca, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Prunus Avium Seed Oil, Prunus Domestica Seed Extract, Prunus Persica Kernel Oil, Pyrus Malus Seed Oil, Retinyl Palmitate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Rhus Vemiciflua Peel Wax, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Rosa Rubiginosa Seed Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Safflower Seed Oil, Sclerocarya Birrea Oil,Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil, Shorea Stenoptera Seed, Butter, Silybum Marianum Ethyl Ester, Silybum Marianum Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Sodium Caproyl Lactylate, Lauroyl Lactylate, Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Sorbitan Caprylate, Sorbitan Olivate, Sorbitan Tristearate, Squalane, Stearyl Behenate, Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate, Stearyl Palmitate, Stearyl Stéarate, Sucrose Acetate Isobutyrate, Sucrose Distearate, Sucrose Polystearate, Sucrose Stéarate, Sucrose Stéarate, Sucrose Distearate, Sucrose Tetrastearate Triacetate, Sucrose Tristearate, Sunflower Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Sunflower Seed Oil Esters, PentaerythritYl Tetracocoate , Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tri-C12-13 Alkyl Citrate, Tri-C14-15 Alkyl Citrate, Tricaprylin, Undecane, Tridecane, Tridecyl Salicylate, Tridecyl Stéarate, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate / Hexacaprate, Tridecyl Trimellitate,Triethyl Citrate, Triethylene Glycol Rosinate, Triethylhexanoin, Triethylhexyl Trimellitate, Triisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate, Triisostearyl Citrate, Trimethylolpropane Triisostearate, Trimyristin, Trioctyldodecyl Citrate, Tripalmitin, Tristearin, Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Vateria Indica Seed Butter, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Ximenia Perrieri Seed Oil, Zea Mays Germ Oil. ,

[0072] In certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition according to the invention contains from 1% to 25% by mass, preferably from 10% to 20% by mass, and even more preferably from 12% to 17% by mass of the hydrogel relative to the mass of the cosmetic composition. The hydrogel is advantageously present in a sufficient quantity to ensure the activation of the proper biological functioning of healthy skin.

[0073] The cosmetic composition according to the invention can be characterized by a natural or naturally derived content, which is advantageously greater than a value chosen from the group consisting of 80%, 85%, 90%, 95%, 96%, 97% and 98%, the natural or naturally derived content being defined as above.

[0074] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition contains from 0.01% to 5% of an active ingredient, from 5% to 15% of hydrogel and from 80% to 90% of water, the mass percentages being expressed in relation to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0075] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may take the form of a gel, cream, lotion, milk, ointment, deodorant, or serum. The composition may be a skincare product, a makeup product, or a hygiene product.

[0076] It may be an emulsion of an aqueous phase comprising the hydrogel and another aqueous phase. It may also be an emulsion of an aqueous phase in an oily phase, the aqueous phase containing the hydrogel, or an emulsion of an oily phase in an aqueous phase, the aqueous phase comprising the hydrogel.

[0077]

[0078]

[0079]

[0080]

[0081]

[0082]

[0083]

[0084]

[0085]

[0086] The hydrogel and / or cosmetic composition of the invention may be transparent, and this transparency can be observed by any method known to those skilled in the art. It is characterized by the passage of light through a container holding the hydrogel, or through the container of the composition used to prepare the product intended for sale. Those skilled in the art will know how to choose the appropriate container to observe the transparency of the hydrogel or the composition. The cosmetic composition can be packaged in a container, such as a tube, a jar or a dosing bottle. A fourth object of the invention relates to a method for manufacturing the cosmetic composition described above, said method comprising a step of preparing the hydrogel, and a step of mixing the hydrogel with the cosmetic ingredient as described above. In some embodiments, the hydrogel preparation step includes: - a step of mixing natural glycerin and carbomer with water, - followed by a step of adding to the previous mixture natural polyol, natural caprylyl glycol and possibly a base. The step of mixing glycerin, carbomer, and water may include a first step in which the glycerin is mixed with a portion of the water to obtain solution A, the amount of water preferably being chosen so that the water / glycerin mass ratio is between 1:1 and 3:1. The step of mixing glycerin, water, and carbomer may include a second step in which solution A is mixed with the carbomer to obtain solution B. This mixing is carried out by dispersing the carbomer under stirring at room temperature in solution A. A third step consists of adding the natural polyol and caprylyl glycol to solution B to obtain solution C. In a fourth step, a base such as sodium hydroxide is added. The invention is illustrated by the following embodiments. The temperature is 20-25°C unless otherwise stated. Example 1: Preparation of hydrogels according to the invention Hydrogels were prepared, the composition of which is detailed in Table 1. [Table 1] Hydrogel compositions according to the invention Ingredient (trade name) Ingredient mass relative to total hydrogel mass (percentage) Vegetable glycerin 45-55% Carbomer (Carbopol® 98 0) or Mixture of xanthan gum and microcrystalline cellulose 0.5-1% Dimethyl isosorbide 5-7% Natural propanediol 11-14% Natural sorbitol 1-2% Natural caprylyl glycol 4-8% Sodium hydroxide qs Purified water qsp 100%

[0087] Vegetable glycerin and a portion of the purified water were mixed, and then the carbomer was dispersed under stirring at room temperature. The other compounds were then added in the proportions indicated in Table 1.

[0088] Example 2: Basic cosmetic composition comprising the hydrogel and evaluation of its cosmetic efficacy Preparation of the basic cosmetic composition

[0089] A basic cosmetic composition (referred to as "base") comprising 15% of the hydrogel prepared in Example 1, 0.20% of a thickening agent, and 84.8% water was prepared. Evaluation of anti-aging properties

[0090] The cosmetic qualities of the composition were evaluated on a panel of 20 people who applied and evaluated the product, assigning a score between 0 and 3 points for each of the expected effects: - firming of the skin on the lower face, - firming of the skin on the neck, - visibly younger-looking face.

[0091] Each person applied the composition, once a day, for 42 days, to the face and neck in a thick layer on a gauze, for 40 minutes.

[0092] A score of 2 or 3 points was translated as a "YES", while a score of 0 or 1 point counted as a "NO".

[0093] The results are shown in Table 2.

[0094] [Table 2]

[0095] Anti-aging properties of a cosmetic base comprising a hydrogel of the invention Efficiency Day 0 (n=20) Day 21 (n=20) Day 42 (n=20) Skin tightening on the lower face • YES# • NO 62% 38% 80% 20% 90% 10% Skin tightening on the neck • YES# • NO 62% 38% 70% 30% 75% 25% Visibly younger-looking face • YES# • NO 48% 52% 60% 40% 70% 30%

[0096] Example 3: cosmetic compositions containing hydrogel

[0097] Four cosmetic compositions were prepared.

[0098] An anti-aging serum with moisturizing and anti-pollution properties is prepared by mixing 99.8% of the base of Example 2 and 0.2% hyaluronic acid.

[0099] A cosmetic composition for cellular repair of skin cells is prepared by mixing 99.0% of the base of Example 2 and 1% of panthenol.

[0100] A cosmetic composition intended to soothe itching is prepared by mixing 99.8% of the base of Example 2, 0.1% vitamin E and 0.1% alpha-bisabolol.

[0101] Finally, a cosmetic composition intended to soothe sunburn is prepared by mixing 99.9% of the base of Example 2, and 0.1% of alpha-bisabolol.

[0102] Example 4: cosmetic emulsion composition containing hydrogel Ingredient (INCI name) Ingredient mass relative to total hydrogel mass (percentage) Example Hydrogel 1 15% POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIISO STEARATE 2% POLYGLYCERYL-4 OLEA TE (AND) POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE 3% TRIHEPTANOIN 6% TOCOPHEROL 0.2% PERSEA GRATISSIMA OIL 10%

Claims

Demands

1. Hydrogel for the formulation of a cosmetic composition essentially consisting of: - 40% to 60% natural glycerin and 0.5% to 1% of at least one carbomer, the natural glycerin and the carbomer preferably forming a crosslinked glycerin poly(meth)acrylate; - 2% to 10% natural caprylyl glycol; - 10% to 20% of at least one natural polyol, other than glycerin, comprising 3 to 6 carbon atoms; and - water, the percentages being expressed by mass relative to the mass of the hydrogel.

2. Hydrogel according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises from 10% to 20% of at least two natural polyols including natural propanediol and natural sorbitol.

3. Hydrogel according to claims 1 or 2, characterized in that it comprises from 5% to 7% dimethyl isosorbide.

4. Hydrogel according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that its natural or naturally sourced content is greater than or equal to a value selected from the group consisting of 80%, 85%, 90%, 95%, 96%, 97% and 98%.

5. Hydrogel for use in the treatment of a condition requiring activation of the biological function of the skin, said hydrogel conforming to any one of claims 1 to 4 and having a function selected from an increase in the production of collagen and elastin by the skin, an increase in the skin hydration rate, a decrease in skin redness, an increase in protection against microbial aggression, an increase in hair growth and a decrease in age spots.

6. A cosmetic skincare composition for topical application comprising a hydrogel, the hydrogel conforming to any one of claims 1 to 4 and being associated with at least one cosmetic ingredient having at least one function selected from the group consisting of solvent, emulsifier, perfume, thickener, film-forming agent, emollient, humectant, colouring matter, texturizing agent, and active ingredient.

7. A cosmetic skincare composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the cosmetic ingredient having an active ingredient function is selected from the group consisting of a moisturizing agent, an anti-aging agent, an anti-itch soothing agent, a sunburn soothing agent, an anti-redness agent, a hair growth stimulating agent, a skin firming agent, a skin brightening agent and an agent for reducing spots due to prolonged sun exposure and / or due to aging, such as age spots.

8. A cosmetic skincare composition according to claims 6 or 7, characterized in that it contains 10% to 20% by mass, preferably 12% to 17% by mass, of hydrogel.

9. A method for manufacturing a cosmetic composition, said cosmetic composition conforming to any one of claims 6 to 8, characterized in that it comprises a step of preparing the hydrogel, and a step of mixing the hydrogel with the cosmetic ingredient.

10. A method for manufacturing a cosmetic composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the hydrogel preparation step comprises: - a step of mixing natural glycerin and carbomer with water, - followed by a step of adding to the previous mixture natural polyol, natural caprylyl glycol and optionally a base.