Composition comprising at least two mother-of-pearl pigments, reflective glitter, and a makeup process using it

Abstract

A composition comprising at least two mother-of-pearls, reflective glitter, and a makeup method employing it. The present invention relates to a composition comprising 10% to 30% by weight of mother-of-pearl(s) based on synthetic or natural mica and at least one compound selected from titanium dioxide, iron oxide, silicon dioxide, tin dioxide, ferric ferrocyanide, and / or carbon black; 8% to 20% by weight of mother-of-pearl(s) based on calcium aluminum borosilicate or calcium sodium borosilicate, and titanium dioxide; and 2% to 7% by weight of optical effect material(s); said composition having a G value between 9 and 11. It also relates to a cosmetic method for makeup application and / or treatment of keratinous materials, comprising the application of said composition.

Description

Title of the invention: Composition comprising at least two mother-of-pearls, reflective glitter, and a makeup method employing it. Technical field

[0001] The present invention aims to propose for the field of skincare and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, and in particular of the eyelids, new compositions which are particularly interesting with regard to aesthetic performance, and in particular in terms of colour effects, shine and scintillation which they provide to the user when applied to them, in particular on the eyelids. Previous technique

[0002] In general, cosmetic compositions must provide a particular aesthetic and color effect when applied to the skin, and in particular to the eyelids, and maintain this aesthetic effect over time.

[0003] Thus, the development of new formulations dedicated to makeup and / or skin care, and in particular eyelid care, possessing advantageous properties and aesthetics, is a permanent objective.

[0004] Skincare and / or makeup compositions generally include synthetic coloured and / or glitter species, soluble or dispersed in the medium of the composition.

[0005] Mother-of-pearls are often used, which are colored particles of any shape exhibiting a color effect by optical interference and bringing a rather diffuse brilliance to the composition.

[0006] It is also known to use glitter, which is generally larger than mother-of-pearl, to obtain color effects and a more pronounced shine. In particular, it allows for the creation of bright, sparkling points in the composition, distinguishable to the naked eye.

[0007] However, when these glitters are used with mother-of-pearl, difficulties may arise in obtaining controlled scintillation optical effects upon application of the composition. In particular, matte and / or satin optical effects, or glittery optical effects, are obtained. It therefore remains necessary to develop new compositions that allow for specific scintillation optical effects upon application to the made-up area, especially when applied to the skin, and more specifically to the eyelids.

[0008] Furthermore, it remains desirable to improve the experience of applying such compositions, in particular by enabling a homogeneous result to be obtained from the first pass, without losing other positive characteristics of the application, in particular the ease of application, obtaining a deposit that is not very sticky or not sticky, comfortable, and which remains in place on the area made up. Description of the invention

[0009] Thus, the present invention aims to provide cosmetic compositions containing reflective glitter and colored pearlescent pigments, and enabling controlled, subtly glittery shine and scintillation effects.

[0010] These compositions must also exhibit good stability and good sensory characteristics, while being more environmentally friendly.

[0011] The present invention also aims to provide compositions obtained from natural and / or naturally derived components.

[0012] Indeed, consumer habits and expectations are increasingly shifting towards products that are more environmentally friendly, particularly those of natural origin.

[0013] In this context, it is important to develop new compositions, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or with a good naturalness index and / or of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin, while reducing the use of petrochemical and / or silicone compounds.

[0014] The present invention is specifically designed to meet these needs. Summary of the invention

[0015] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic one, especially for makeup and / or the care of keratinous materials, comprising: (i) 10% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one mother-of-pearl based on synthetic mica (INCI name: Synthetic Fluorphlogopite) or natural mica (INCI name: Mica) and at least one compound selected from titanium dioxide and / or iron oxide and / or silicon dioxide and / or tin dioxide and / or ferrie ferrocyanide and / or carbon black, or mixtures thereof; (ii) 8% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one mother-of-pearl based on calcium aluminium borosilicate, or calcium sodium borosilicate, titanium dioxide, possibly silica (or silicon dioxide or Silica), tin dioxide and / or iron oxide, and possibly at least one mineral or organic pigment, or mixtures thereof; and (iii) 2% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one optical effect material selected from reflective glitters comprising at least cellulose and / or a cellulose derivative; said composition having a G value between 9 and 11, measured using a multi-angle spectrophotometer.

[0016] As illustrated in the examples below, the inventors have surprisingly discovered that the compositions according to the invention comprising at least one mother-of-pearl based on natural mica or synthetic mica and at least one mother-of-pearl based on calcium aluminium borosilicate or calcium sodium borosilicate, made it possible to obtain surprisingly subtly glittery colour and visual effects in the presence of reflective glitter comprising cellulose and / or one of its derivatives.

[0017] In particular, the implementation of reflective glitter, for example silver, in a composition according to the invention, makes it possible to obtain surprisingly pleasing reflections visually and aesthetically for the user when applying the composition to keratinous materials.

[0018] Other features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become apparent from the detailed description that follows. Detailed description

[0019] The composition according to the invention is cosmetic and generally suitable for topical application on the skin, such as the eyelids.

[0020] It therefore generally includes a physiologically acceptable environment, that is to say, one compatible with the skin.

[0021] By "cosmetic," we mean a composition compatible with the skin, mucous membranes, and hair. The composition according to the invention is non-therapeutic.

[0022] Preferably, this is a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say, one which has a pleasant colour, odor and feel and does not generate unacceptable discomforts, that is to say, tingling, pulling, redness, which may deter the user from applying this composition. Mother-of-pearl

[0023] By “mother-of-pearl”, we must understand particles of any shape, iridescent or not, natural or synthesized, and which exhibit at least one color effect by optical interference.

[0024] The mother-of-pearls suitable for the invention are more particularly mother-of-pearls based on natural mica, synthetic mica, borosilicate, such as calcium aluminium borosilicate, calcium sodium borosilicate, and their combinations.

[0025] The nacre(s) contain at least one mineral species based on at least one metal, chosen for example from iron, tin, chromium, titanium, and their combinations.

[0026] Particularly suitable are metallic oxides, such as iron, chromium, tin, titanium oxides, or even ferric ferrocyanide.

[0027] Preferably, the mineral species is chosen from iron, tin or titanium oxides, ferric ferrocyanide (INCI name: Ferrie Ferrocyanide), carbon black (INCI name: CI 77266), and mixtures thereof. (i) Mica-based mother-of-pearl

[0028] As mentioned previously, the composition according to the invention comprises from 10% to 30% by weight, preferably 10% to 28% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one mother-of-pearl based on synthetic mica (INCI name: Synthetic Fluorphlogopite) or natural mica (INCI name: mica), and at least one compound selected from titanium dioxide and / or iron oxide and / or silicon dioxide and / or tin dioxide and / or ferrie ferrocyanide and / or carbon black (i).

[0029] Preferably, the composition includes at least one mother-of-pearl based on natural mica.

[0030] Preferably, the iron oxide, if present, comprises at least iron oxide black.

[0031] According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises a content ranging from 10% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of mother-of-pearl based on natural mica.

[0032] Preferably, the content of nacre(s) based on synthetic mica varies from 0% to 16% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0033] The mother-of-pearls suitable for the invention more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, beige, green, purple, blue, gold and / or copper colour or reflection.

[0034] Among the commercial mother-of-pearls based on natural mica suitable for the invention, we can mention the Timica, Cloisonne, Duocrome mother-of-pearls marketed by the company Sun Chemical, the Timiron, Caudurin, Dichrona and Colorona mother-of-pearls marketed by the company Merck, as well as the SynCrystal mother-of-pearls based on synthetic mica marketed by the company Eckart, the Sunshine and Intenza mother-of-pearls marketed by the company Sun Chemical, the Contextural mother-of-pearls marketed by the company Joint Color and the Helios mother-of-pearls, marketed by the company Topy.

[0035] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the mother-of-pearls based on synthetic mica or on natural mica and / or titanium dioxide and / or iron oxide and / or ferric ferrocyanide and / or carbon black and / or tin dioxide and / or silica are selected from those having an average particle size (corresponding to D50 = average diameter, measured by laser granulometry or other) (equivalent method known to those skilled in the art) less than or equal to 200 pm, preferably less than or equal to 100 pm, and more preferably less than or equal to 90 pm. For example, particle size can be determined by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer such as the Malvern MasterSizer 2000. The data are processed based on Mie scattering theory. This theory, accurate for isotropic particles, allows the determination of an "effective" particle diameter in the case of non-spherical particles. This theory is described in particular in Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957. (ii) Borosilicate-based mother-of-pearl

[0036] As previously stated, the composition according to the invention also comprises 8% to 20% by weight, preferably 8% to 17% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one mother-of-pearl based on calcium aluminium borosilicate (INCI name: Calcium Aluminum Borosilicate), calcium sodium borosilicate (INCI name: Calcium Sodium Borosilicate), titanium dioxide, optionally silica, tin dioxide and / or iron oxide, and optionally at least one mineral or organic pigment (ii).

[0037] In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises from 8% to 17% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one mother-of-pearl selected from mother-of-pearls based on calcium sodium borosilicate, silica and titanium dioxide, tin dioxide, and optionally of at least one mineral or organic pigment, synthetic, natural or of natural origin, and mixtures thereof.

[0038] By “organic pigment” is meant any pigment which meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigment.

[0039] The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type compounds, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.

[0040] The organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, the red pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, and pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indolic, phenolic derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.

[0041] As regards mineral pigments, these are more particularly iron-based, such as iron oxides, Prussian Blue (INCI name: CI 77510).

[0042] Mother-of-pearl may also include tin dioxide.

[0043] Preferably, the composition comprises at least one mother-of-pearl based on calcium aluminium borosilicate, or calcium sodium borosilicate, titanium dioxide, optionally silica, optionally tin dioxide and optionally at least one mineral pigment.

[0044] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least a mother-of-pearl based on calcium sodium borosilicate (INCI name: Borosilicate Calcium Sodium), silica, titanium dioxide and tin dioxide.

[0045] The mother-of-pearls suitable for the invention more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, beige, blue, green, violet, gold and / or copper colour or reflection.

[0046] Among the commercial borosilicate-based mother-of-pearls suitable for the invention, we can mention Reflecks mother-of-pearls marketed by Sun Chemical, Ronastar mother-of-pearls marketed by Merck, Metashine mother-of-pearls marketed by Nippon Sheet Glass, as well as Mirage mother-of-pearls marketed by Eckart.

[0047] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the borosilicate-based nacres are chosen from those having an average particle size (corresponding to D50 (average diameter in volume, measured by laser granulometry or other equivalent method known to those skilled in the art) of at least 20 pm, preferably at least 30 pm, and less than or equal to 400 pm, preferably less than or equal to 200 pm, even more preferably less than or equal to 150 pm.

[0048] Optical effect material (iii) selected from reflective glitter

[0049] As mentioned previously, the composition according to the invention comprises from 2% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one optical effect material (iii) selected from reflective glitter comprising cellulose and / or a cellulose derivative.

[0050] More particularly, said reflective particles are chosen from among silver reflective particles, with or without holographic effect.

[0051] By "holographic effect" is more particularly an effect with color changes, producing for example iridescent rainbow colors.

[0052] For the purposes of this invention, "reflective glitter" means small particles comprising a sheet or film on which at least one metallic species, in particular aluminum, is deposited. The reflective particles may take a wide variety of shapes. Sequins can thus be in cubic form, as plates or needles for example, or they can have been formed or cut into a defined shape, such as a hexagonal, oval, circular, square, etc...

[0053] The sequins have, in particular, a maximum diameter size in the principal direction of particle extension. This diameter ranges in particular from 0.02 mm to 7.0 mm, in particular from 0.05 mm to 6.0 mm, more particularly from 0.06 mm to 2.0 mm, preferably from 0.1 mm to 0.5 mm, more preferably from 0.1 mm to 0.4 mm.

[0054] In particular, the glitter according to the invention comprises a support containing at least 60% by weight of cellulose and / or one of its derivatives.

[0055] Cellulose derivatives can be selected from cellulose esters, such as cellulose acetate, cellulose propionates, cellulose acetate propionates, cellulose butyrates, cellulose acetate butyrates, regenerated celluloses (INCI name: Rayon) or cellulose hydrates, such as cellophane, and mixtures of two or more cellulose derivatives.

[0056] It is not excluded that the glitter may also be composed of other additional products, distinct from cellulose and its derivatives, such as polylactic acid (PLA), polyvinyl alcohol, polyhydroxyalkanoate (PHA) or polybutylene adipate terephthalate.

[0057] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the support for the sequins according to the invention comprises at least 70% by weight of cellulose or its derivatives, in particular at least 80% by weight of cellulose or its derivatives, and preferably at least 90% by weight of cellulose or its derivatives.

[0058] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the support for the sequins according to the invention comprises at least 95% by weight of cellulose or its derivatives, in particular at least 99% by weight of cellulose or its derivatives, preferably at least 99.5% by weight of cellulose or its derivatives, and even more preferably at least 99.9% by weight of cellulose or its derivatives.

[0059] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the support for the glitter is exclusively composed of cellulose or one of its derivatives, more preferably, the support for the glitter is exclusively composed of cellulose, regenerated cellulose (INCI name: Rayon) or cellulose acetate.

[0060] However, the glitter carrier may also include additives, such as anti-blocking or lubricating agents. The glitter carrier may contain from 0% to 2.5% by weight of additives, preferably from 0% to 1% by weight of additives, and more preferably from 0.01% to 1% by weight of additives.

[0061] According to a particular embodiment, the support may be free of additives.

[0062] The glitter support is also coated with a metallic pigment, in particular an aluminum pigment, a copper pigment, a silver pigment, a gold pigment, or an alloy of these metals. More preferably, the metallic pigment is an aluminum pigment.

[0063] The glitter can be coated on one side, two sides or entirely.

[0064] The glitter according to the invention is, in particular, silver or with an effect holographic, and advantageously biodegradable.

[0065] Such reflective glitter is described in particular in US applications 2020 / 0214951 and US 2019 / 0314261.

[0066] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the flakes are chosen from the flakes marketed by Sigmund Lindner, preferably from the flakes based on regenerated cellulose marketed by Sigmund Lindner under the names Biosparkle® (INCI name: RAYON (and) GLYCERIN (and) PULLULAN (and) UREA (and) SILICA (and) ALUMINUM POWDER) and the flakes based on cellulose acetate marketed by Sigmund Lindner under the names Pure nature® (INCI name: CELLULOSE ACETATE (and) TRIACETIN (and) SILICA (and) ALUMINUM POWDER).

[0067] Preferably, the reflective glitter is chosen from silver particles with or without holographic effect, preferably silver with holographic effect.

[0068] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises reflective glitter comprising at least cellulose, regenerated cellulose or cellulose acetate, and more preferably regenerated cellulose or cellulose acetate, preferably regenerated cellulose.

[0069] Preferably, the glitter comprises a support comprising at least 60% by weight, preferably at least 70% by weight, of cellulose and / or cellulose derivative, preferably cellulose, regenerated cellulose or cellulose acetate, preferably regenerated cellulose.

[0070] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises flakes composed of cellulose, regenerated cellulose or cellulose acetate, preferably regenerated cellulose, silvered and advantageously biodegradable (ISO 14851:2019 standard).

[0071] More specifically, the glitter used is Sigmund Lindner glitter, more specifically glitter from the BioSparkle® and Pure Nature® ranges.

[0072] According to one embodiment of the invention, said optical effect material(s) (iii) selected from reflective glitter comprising at least cellulose and / or a cellulose derivative are present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 3% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0073] According to a preferred embodiment, the reflective glitter considered according to the invention comprises less than 10% by weight of polymers or copolymers selected from polyethylene terephthalate, butylene terephthalate, acrylate polymers, styrene acrylate copolymers, polyurethanes and their mixtures, relative to their total weight.

[0074] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, of polymers or copolymers selected from polyethylene terephthalate, butylene terephthalate, acrylate polymers, styrene acrylate copolymers, polyurethanes and mixtures thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0075] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention is free of such polymers and copolymers.

[0076] As specified above, the reflective glitter required according to the invention is combined with at least two colored pearls, in particular, the reflective glitter is combined with at least one pearl based on synthetic mica or on natural mica, and at least one compound selected from titanium dioxide and / or silica and / or tin dioxide and / or iron oxide and / or Ferrie Ferrocyanide and / or carbon black and at least one pearl based on calcium sodium borosilicate, silica, at least titanium dioxide and / or tin dioxide and possibly iron oxide or ferric ferrocyanide (INCI name: Ferrie Ferrocyanide). Oils

[0077] The composition according to the invention may include an oily phase comprising at least one oil, volatile, hydrocarbon or silicone, preferably hydrocarbon.

[0078] According to this particular embodiment, said volatile oil(s), hydrocarbon(s) or silicone(s), or mixtures thereof, is / are present in a content of at least 20% by weight, more particularly between 20% and 50% by weight, more particularly between 25% and 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0079] By "oil" is meant liquid compounds, immiscible in water, at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105 Pa).

[0080] By "immiscible in water," it is meant that the mixture of the same quantity of water and oil, after stirring, does not lead to a stable solution comprising only one phase, under the aforementioned temperature and pressure conditions. The observation is made visually or, if necessary, using a phase-contrast microscope, on 100 g of mixture obtained after sufficient Rayneri agitation to create a vortex within the mixture (for guidance 200 to 1000 rpm); the resulting mixture being left to rest in a closed bottle for 24 hours at room temperature before observation.

[0081] The term "hydrocarbon oil" is classically used to refer to an oil formed essentially, or even composed, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly of oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and containing no silicon atoms. Hydrocarbon oil is therefore distinct from silicone oil. Advantageously, the hydrocarbon oils according to the invention contain only carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, and possibly nitrogen atoms.

[0082] For the purposes of this invention, "siliconized oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0083] By "volatile oil" is meant an oil having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, in particular up to 13,000 Pa, and more particularly up to 1300 Pa. By way of example, the vapor pressure can be measured according to the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetric effusion method, according to the vapor pressure (OECD Standard 104).

[0084] Volatile hydrocarbon oils are preferably chosen from hydrocarbon oils of the hydrocarbon type (i.e. non-polar hydrocarbon oils, consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen).

[0085] In particular, they can be selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially: - C8-Ci6 branched alkanes such as isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example oils sold under the trade names Isododecane, marketed by the company Ineos or Permetyl 99A marketed by Permetyl, alone or in mixtures, - linear alkanes, for example in Cn-Ci5, alone or in mixtures, and - their mixtures.

[0086] Volatile silicone oils can be chosen from linear, branched or cyclic silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having 3 to 7 silicon atoms.

[0087] Examples of such oils include octyltrimethicone, hexyltrimethicone, methyltrimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, polydimethysiloxanes such as those marketed under the reference DC 200 (1.5 cSt), DC 200 (3 cSt) by Dow Corning, or KF 96 A from Shin Etsu; alone or in mixtures.

[0088] The volatile oil is more particularly chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils, preferably from hydrocarbon oils, and even more preferably from isododecane. solid fats

[0089] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one solid fat, in particular chosen from waxes, pasty fat compounds, or mixtures thereof. Waxes

[0090] The composition according to the invention may in particular comprise at least one wax.

[0091] By waxes, we mean solid fatty compounds, insoluble in water, in particular having a melting point between 40 °C and 120 °C, more advantageously between 45 °C and 100 °C, and even more preferably from 50 °C to 100 °C.

[0092] For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting temperature of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q2000" by TA Instruments.

[0093] The measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of wax of approximately 5 mg is placed in a crucible “hermetically sealed aluminum capsule”. The sample is subjected to an initial heating from -20 °C to 120 °C at a rate of 10 °C / minute, then cooled from 120 °C to -20 °C at a rate of 10 °C / minute, and finally subjected to a second heating from -20 °C to 120 °C at a rate of 5 °C / minute. During this second heating, the melting point of the solid fat is measured. This point corresponds to the peak of the most endothermic point on the observed melting curve, representing the variation in power absorbed as a function of temperature.

[0094] More specifically, the waxes are chosen from non-polar hydrocarbon waxes, ester hydrocarbon waxes, and mixtures thereof.

[0095] Among nonpolar hydrocarbon waxes, that is to say, comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms in their structure, we can mention in particular polyethylene waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polymethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, microwaxes in particular of polyethylene, as well as their mixtures.

[0096] Among the hydrocarbon ester waxes, we can mention fatty acid monoesters, dicarboxylic acid diesters, total esters of glycerol and carboxylic acid in Ci6-C3o, possibly hydroxylated, waxes of animal or vegetable origin, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0097] In particular, one can cite fatty acid ester waxes of the formula RiCOOR2, in which Ri and R2 represent linear, branched, or cyclic aliphatic chains with a number of atoms ranging from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom, in particular oxygen. Cetyl palmitate and C2O-C4O alkyl stearates can be used as waxes. Such waxes are notably sold under the name Kester Wax® K82H by Koster Keunen. Mixtures of C14-C18 carboxylic acid esters and alcohols can also be used, such as Cetyl Ester Wax 814 from Koster Keunen, SP Crodamol MS MB AL, Crodamol MS PA from Croda, and Miraceti from Laserson.

[0098] Also suitable as ester waxes are the diesters of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula R3-(-OCO-R4-COO-R5), wherein R3 and R5 are identical or different, preferably identical, and represent a C4-C30 alkyl group, and R4 represents a linear or branched C4-C30 aliphatic group, which may or may not contain one or more unsaturates. Preferably, the C4-C30 aliphatic group is linear and unsaturated.

[0099] Total esters of a saturated Ci6-C30 carboxylic acid can also be used with glycerol, for example tristearin (or glyceryl tristearate), tribehenin (or glyceryl tribehenate), trihydroxystearin (or glyceryl trihydroxystearate) alone or in mixture.

[0100] Waxes of animal or vegetable origin can also be used, such as beeswax, synthetic beeswax, candelilla wax, camauba wax, lanolin wax, rice bran wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, laurel wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, sunflower wax, in particular refined.

[0101] It would also be possible to use at least one wax chosen from those obtained by hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils. In particular, waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of vegetable oils having linear or branched fatty chains in the C8-C32 range, for example hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, as well as waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified castor oil with cetyl alcohol, alcohol behenyl, such as those sold under the names Phytowax® Ricin 16L64 and Phytowax® Ricin 22L73 by the company Sophim. Such waxes are described in application FR2792190. Examples of waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified olive oil with stearyl alcohol and lauryl alcohol include those sold under the names Phytowax® Olive 18 L 57 and Phytowax® Olive 12 L 44.

[0102] Among the possible waxes, one can also mention fatty alcohols that are solid at room temperature, such as lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, 1-triacontanol alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Also suitable are mixtures of long-chain fatty alcohols, such as cetearyl alcohol (a mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols), and mixtures of C3O-C5O and C2O-C4O alcohols. For example, one can mention the waxes marketed under the name Performacol by NuCera Solutions.

[0103] Among the possible waxes, we can also mention the PARACERA HW microcrystalline waxes from Paramelt.

[0104] Preferably, the composition comprises at least one wax selected from beeswax, paraffin wax, rice bran wax, sunflower wax, fatty acid ester waxes, in particular cetyl palmitate, polyethylene wax, Fischer-Tropsch waxes, Koster Keunen waxes, microcrystalline waxes, ozokerite, and mixtures thereof.

[0105] Advantageously, the wax content varies from 4% to 9% by weight, more particularly varies from 5% to 9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Pasty compounds

[0106] According to another advantageous embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one paste-like compound, more particularly a non-polar or polar hydrocarbon compound.

[0107] For the purposes of this invention, "pasty compound" means a lipophilic solid compound comprising, at a temperature of 25 °C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Thus, a pasty compound may have a starting melting point below 25 °C.

[0108] The melting point of the pasty fat is determined according to the same principle as that detailed previously for waxes.

[0109] In the case of a pasty compound, the measurement protocol is as follows: A 5 mg sample of pasty fat placed in a crucible is subjected to an initial temperature increase from -20 °C to 100 °C at a heating rate of 10 °C / minute, then is cooled from 100 °C to -20 °C at a cooling rate of 10 °C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20 °C to 100 °C at a heating rate of 5 °C / minute. The melting point of the pasty fat is the temperature value corresponding to the peak of the curve representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature. It should be noted that the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fat at room temperature is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at room temperature to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fat. The enthalpy of fusion of a fat in a paste form is the enthalpy consumed by the fat to change from a solid to a liquid state. A fat in a paste form is said to be in a solid state when its entire mass is in crystalline solid form. A fat in a paste form is said to be in a liquid state when its entire mass is in liquid form. The enthalpy of fusion of a fat-based substance is the amount of energy required to change the fat-based substance from a solid to a liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The enthalpy of fusion of the fat-based substance is equal to the area under the curve of the resulting thermogram.

[0110] Among the pasty compounds that can be used in the composition according to the invention, we can mention petroleum jelly (INCI name Petrolatum) among the nonpolar hydrocarbon compounds (in other words, compounds comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms in their structure).

[0111] Among polar pasty hydrocarbon compounds, ester-type compounds are used more particularly.

[0112] Examples include lanolins and their derivatives, such as acetylated lanolins or isopropyl lanolate, and mixtures thereof.

[0113] Suitable are also butters of vegetable origin such as shea butter, cocoa butter, mango butter, cupuacu butter, murumuru butter, and mixtures thereof.

[0114] We can also mention esters derived from pentaerythritol, such as the products with INCI name Dipentaerythrityl Tetrahydroxy stearate / Tetraisostearate, triglycerides of saturated fatty acids or of hydrogenated fatty acids such as the products with INCI name Caprylic / Capric / Myristic / Stearic Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, and their mixtures.

[0115] Vegetable oils that are totally or partially hydrogenated, for example soybean, coconut, rapeseed, jojoba, olive, castor oils, and mixtures thereof, can also be used as a paste compound.

[0116] We can also mention hydrogenated coco-glycerides (INCI name: Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides) for example, marketed under the name Softisan 100 by the company IOI Group Oleochemicals.

[0117] Hydrogenated castor oil esters, such as the products with the INCI name Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate (for example marketed under the name Risocast DA-L, by the company Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo) or Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate (marketed in particular under the name Salacos HCISV-L by the company Nisshin OilliO), may be suitable for carrying out the invention.

[0118] Among the pasty compounds, we can also mention Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 (INCI name) notably marketed under the brand Softisan 649 by the company Sasol, or diol dimer and diacid dimer esters, where appropriate, esterified on their alcohol(s) or free acid(s) function(s) by acid or alcohol radicals, in particular dimer dilinoleate esters, such as the products marketed under the brand Plandool such as Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate (INCI name) under the name Plandool G, Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate (INCI name) under the names Plandool H or Plandool S, marketed by the company Nippon Fine Chemical Company.

[0119] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the paste compound(s) are selected from polar compounds, in particular of the ester type, in particular vegetable butters, hydrogenated coco-glycerides, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 (INCI name), diol dimer and diacid dimer esters, where appropriate, esterified on their free alcohol or acid function(s) by acid or alcohol radicals, in particular dimer dilinoleate esters, such as the products with the following INCI names: Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, and mixtures thereof.

[0120] If the composition includes them, the content of pasty fatty compound(s) shall in particular be from 3% to 10% by weight, preferably from 3.5% to 8.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Lipophilic thickening agent

[0121] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one lipophilic thickening agent selected from lipophilic clays.

[0122] The term “lipophilic clay” means any clay that is liposoluble or lipodispersible in an oily phase.

[0123] The term clay refers more particularly to a material based on hydrated silicates and / or aluminosilicates with a lamellar structure.

[0124] Clays can be natural or synthetic. Examples of such products include clays of the smectite family, as well as those of the family of Vermiculites, stevensite, chlorites. These clays can be of natural or synthetic origin.

[0125] Preferably, organophilic clays are used, more particularly modified clays such as montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite, sepiolite, and mixtures thereof. The clay is preferably a bentonite or a hectorite.

[0126] More specifically, clays are rendered lipophilic by treatment with an alkyl ammonium salt, such as an ammonium halide, for example, a C22 ammonium chloride, with or without an aromatic group. In particular, examples include halides such as stearalkonium chloride, benzalkonium chloride, or dialkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, for example, distearyl dimethyl ammonium.

[0127] Lipophilic clay may be in the form of a powder or in a form pre-dispersed in a solvent chosen, for example, from the Ci-C2 alcohols, such as methanol, ethanol, propylene carbonate, triethyl citrate, and mixtures thereof.

[0128] The lipophilic clay suitable for implementing the invention can be selected from among the modified hectorites with the following INCI names: Disteardimonium hectorite, Stearalkonium Hectorites, Quaternium-18 Hectorite, alone or in mixtures. Preferably, the composition includes Disteardimonium hectorite.

[0129] The lipophilic bentonite suitable for implementing the invention can be chosen from the following INCI bentonites: Quaternium-18 bentonites, Stearalkonium Bentonites, Quatemium-18 / Benzalkonium Bentonite, alone or in mixtures.

[0130] Among the modified hectorites usable within the framework of the invention, we can mention: * among the Disteardimonium Hectorite: Bentone 38V, Bentone 38V CG, Bentone Gel and more particularly Bentone Gel ISD V marketed by the company Elementis; * among the Stearalkonium Hectorite: Bentone 27V; marketed by the company Elementis Specialties.

[0131] Among the modified bentonites usable within the scope of the invention, the following may be mentioned, alone or in mixtures: * among the quaternium-18 bentonites: Bentone 34 marketed by Elementis Specialties; Claytone 40, Tixogel VP marketed by BYK Additives Inc; * among the Stearalkonium Bentonites: Tixogel VZ, Claytone AF, Claytone APA marketed by BYK Additives Inc; * among the Quaternium-18 / Benzalkonium Bentonite: Claytone HT marketed by BYK Additives Inc.

[0132] According to a preferred embodiment, the lipophilic clay comprising at least one quaternary ammonium group is chosen from among the lipophilic hectorites, in particular disteardimonium hectorite.

[0133] In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one lipophilic thickening agent selected from silicas, preferably hydrophobically treated, glyceryl trihydroxystearate, dextrin esters, lipophilic clays, and mixtures thereof; and preferably disteardimonium hectorite.

[0134] When the composition includes it, the content of lipophilic thickening agent(s) represents more particularly 2% to 5% by weight, expressed as active matter, preferably 3% to 4.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0135] It should be noted that if the composition includes water, then the quantity of water and hydroxylated solvents is less than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 3% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and even more advantageously free of water. Charges

[0136] The composition according to the invention may optionally include one or more fillers conventionally used in makeup and / or skincare compositions. It is understood that the fillers are distinct from coloring materials, pearlescent pigments (i) and reflective glitter (ii).

[0137] These fillers are colorless or white, solid particles of all shapes, which are insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition. The fillers may be organic or mineral.

[0138] By way of illustration of organic fillers, examples may be cited, such as poly-[3-alanine and polyethylene powders, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders (Teflon®), lauroyl-lysine, cellulose, starch, hollow polymeric microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile like Expacel® (Nobel Industrie), acrylic acid copolymers, silicone resin microbeads (Tospearls® from Toshiba, for example), polyorganosiloxane elastomer particles, polyurethane powders, silicone particles having the form of portions of hollow spheres, as described in patent applications JP-2003 128 788 and JP-2000 191 789, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0139] By way of illustration of mineral fillers, the following may be cited: mica, silica, kaolin, boron nitride, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydroxy-carbonate, hydroxyapatite, barium sulfate, hollow silica microspheres, and glass or ceramic microcapsules, and mixtures thereof.

[0140] Preferably, the composition comprises at least one organic filler, more particularly non-siliconized, more particularly selected from lauroyl-lysine, cellulose, starch, and mixtures thereof; and preferably lauroyl-lysine, marketed under the name Amihope LL by Ajinomoto or under the name Corum 5105 S by Corum.

[0141] In particular, if the composition includes such fillers, the latter may be present in a content ranging from 3% to 5.5% by weight, in particular from 3% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional coloring materials

[0142] The composition according to the invention may optionally contain one or more additional colouring material(s) distinct from the nacres (i) and (ii) and reflective particles (iii), preferably in a content less than or equal to 5% by weight, in particular less than or equal to 1% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 0.5% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 0.3% by weight, more preferably less than or equal to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0143] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is devoid of coloring material distinct from the nacres (i) and (ii) and reflective particles (iii) required according to the invention.

[0144] By way of illustration and not limitation of these additional colouring materials, pigments may be cited.

[0145] The term “pigments” means white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in the composition, intended to color the composition and / or the resulting deposit.

[0146] More specifically, the pigments are chosen from monochromatic species, devoid of color variability effect with the angle of observation or in response to a change in temperature.

[0147] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.

[0148] By "mineral pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann Encyclopedia in the chapter on inorganic pigment. Examples of mineral pigments useful in the present invention include zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, and metallic powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder.

[0149] The following mineral pigments can also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2 in mixture with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, ZnS.

[0150] The size of the pigment useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and can go up to 10 µm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 µm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 µm.

[0151] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D

[50] greater than 100 nm and up to 10 pm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 pm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 pm.

[0152] The sizes are measured by laser diffraction using a commercial particle size analyzer, the Malvern MasterSizer 3000®, which allows for the determination of the particle size distribution over a wide range from 0.01 pm to 1000 pm. The data are processed based on the classical Mie scattering theory. This theory is best suited for size distributions ranging from submicron to multimicron, and it allows for the determination of an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is notably described in Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957. D

[50] represents the maximum size of 50% of the particles by volume.

[0153] The pigment may also be an organic compound or a lacquer. It is understood that a lacquer is different from the nacres (i) and (ii) according to the invention.

[0154] The pigment may or may not be coated by at least one lipophilic compound. The coating may also include at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.

[0155] For the purposes of the invention, "coating" of a pigment according to the invention generally refers to the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment by a surfactant, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment.

[0156] Surface-treated pigments can be prepared using surface treatment techniques of a chemical, electronic, mechano-chemical or mechanical nature well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products can also be used.

[0157] The surfactant can be absorbed, adsorbed, or grafted onto the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction, and the formation of a covalent bond. In one embodiment, the surface treatment consists of coating the pigments. The coating can represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight, of the total weight of the coated pigment.

[0158] The coating can be achieved, for example, by adsorption of a liquid surfactant onto the surface of the solid particles by simple mixing under agitation of the particles and said surfactant, possibly heated, prior to the incorporation of the particles into the other ingredients of the makeup or skincare composition.

[0159] The coating can be achieved, for example, by a chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the solid pigment particles and the creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the particles. This method is described in particular in US patent 4,578,266.

[0160] Chemical surface treatment may consist of diluting the surfactant in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent so that the surfactant is deposited on the surface of the pigments.

[0161] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments can be coated with at least one compound selected from silicone surfactants; fluorinated surfactants; fluoro-siliconized surfactants; metallic soaps; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof. Optional additives

[0162] Within the framework of the present invention, the composition may also further contain at least one adjuvant chosen from those commonly used in the cosmetic field, in particular for makeup and / or skin care compositions, and in particular for eyelids.

[0163] Examples include preservatives, antioxidants, surfactants, moisturizing agents, perfumes, bactericides, etc.

[0164] We can also mention non-volatile, hydrocarbon or silicone oils, film-forming polymers, such as for example copolymers of alkene and vinyl acetate, preferably copolymers of ethylene and vinyl acetate, such for example, Dermacryl Lor, marketed by the company AKZO NOBEL (NOURYON).

[0165] These adjuvants and their concentrations must be such that they do not modify the properties sought for the composition of the invention, in particular do not alter the stability properties of the colouring.

[0166] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the content of optional additive(s) varies from 0.5% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0167] By way of illustration and not limitation of a composition according to the invention, compositions containing:

[0168] - at least 20% by weight of at least one volatile nonpolar hydrocarbon oil, - 4% to 9% by weight of at least one wax, hydrocarbon, polar or non-polar, - 3% to 8% by weight of at least one paste compound, - 3% to 5.5% by weight of at least one organic filler, - 2% to 5% by weight of at least one lipophilic thickener chosen from lipophilic clays, relative to the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic composition and use

[0169] The compositions according to the invention can be manufactured by known processes, generally used in the cosmetic field.

[0170] Advantageously, the compositions according to the invention are not solid.

[0171] Thus, according to a first variant, the compositions, according to the invention, are liquid and can be of creamy or pasty texture. G# measurement protocol: Operating procedure:

[0172] The measurement of G is carried out on black supplale (protein leather) from Ideatex Japan, cut by Soudotique and measured using a multi-angle spectrophotometer such as the BYK Mac-I.

[0173] The heating plate is set to 32 °C and the black suppository is placed on it and left to heat for 15 minutes. The suppository is then removed from the plate and 0.10 g of the product is immediately applied to it with a finger fitted with a latex finger cot, making 10 turns in one direction and 5 turns in the other direction. The measurement is then taken directly with the multi-angle spectrophotometer (the BYK Mac-I).

[0174] The measurement of G (graininess), a parameter used to quantify the scintillation effect of a composition, is carried out using a multi-angle spectrophotometer, in particular using a BYK Mac-I multi-angle spectrophotometer.

[0175] The desired scintillating effects, characterized by points of light, are obtained when the value of G is between 9 and 11.

[0176] If G is less than 9, the effect becomes more muted, this effect is accentuated with the decrease in the value of G.

[0177] If G is greater than 11, the effect becomes more glittery, this effect is accentuated with increasing value of G.

[0178] Protocol for measuring the hardness of a solid composition j.

[0179] The term "solid composition" refers to a composition that does not flow under its own weight at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure after one hour. The composition may thus be in solid form in a pot, on a pallet, or in the form of a stick.

[0180] The hardness of the composition in solid form according to the invention can be measured using a texturer which makes it possible to obtain the variation of the resistance to deformation of the composition as a function of the displacement of a mobile in a sample of said composition.

[0181] The texture analyzer measures the resistance to deformation of the composition as soon as the mobile comes into contact with the sample. After reaching a programmed maximum depth LO in the sample, the mobile returns to the initial point.

[0182] The hardness (expressed in grams or Newtons) is equal to the resistance value of the composition when the mobile is at the end of its stroke.

[0183] The texture analyzer used may in particular be a Stable Micro System TAX-T2i® texture analyzer equipped with Texture Expert Exceed® type operating software equipped with a Rheo's P / 0.5 HS hemispherical plastic mobile.

[0184] The parameters applied are advantageously as follows: - speed before contact: 0.l mm.s', - speed of movement in the sample: 0.1 mm.s', - withdrawal speed: 0.1 mm.s', - maximum depth L0: 1 mm. Capsule preparation #:

[0185] The capsule is a flat-bottomed cylindrical container made of FB stainless steel, with a diameter of 60 mm, a height of 20 mm, and a capacity of 0.05 L.

[0186] The composition, which must be at a temperature of 20 °C, is tested according to the following protocol: the capsule is filled to excess (until a dome forms at the top of the capsule) with the composition to be tested, using a spatula carefully to avoid air pockets and the destructuring of the product.

[0187] The composition is covered with a parafilm and the capsule is left to rest in a thermostatically controlled chamber at the specified temperature (20 °C) for 10 minutes.

[0188] The film is then removed and the surface of the composition is leveled before taking the measurement.

[0189] The thermostatic cup is positioned so that three measurements can be taken at points located equidistant from the center and the edge of it.

[0190] The operation is carried out at least 3 times, and the hardness is equal to the average of the measurements taken.

[0191] A composition according to the invention may more particularly be a makeup and / or skin care composition, and in particular eyelid care.

[0192] According to another variant, a composition according to the invention is an eyeshadow.

[0193] The composition according to the invention can preferably be applied using an applicator, in particular a flocked applicator, a sponge, a brush or a finger.

[0194] According to another aspect of it, the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for making up and / or caring for keratinous materials, in particular skin, in particular eyelids, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratinous materials, in particular skin, in particular eyelids, a composition such as defined above.

[0195] Preferably, the process is a cosmetic process for making up keratinous materials, in particular skin, more particularly eyelids, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratinous materials, in particular to said skin, more particularly to said eyelids, a composition such as defined above.

[0196] The expressions "between ... and ...", "includes from ... to ...", "made up of ... to ...", and "ranging from ... to ..." should be understood inclusively, unless otherwise specified.

[0197] In the description and examples, unless otherwise stated, percentages are weight percentages (i.e., mass percentages). Percentages are therefore expressed as weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Temperature is expressed in degrees Celsius unless otherwise stated, and pressure is atmospheric pressure unless otherwise stated.

[0198] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the non-limiting examples presented below. Example 1

[0199] Compositions II to 13 according to the invention, and comparative compositions C1 to C5, were prepared as described below with the proportions indicated in Table 2, considering as white base 1 the mixture detailed in Table 1 below. The contents are expressed as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0200] [Tables 1] Phase Ingredients Quantity A Beeswax (CeraAlba) 11.3 Ethylene / VA Copolymer (Dermacryl LOr, Akzo Nobel) 4.93 Hydrogenated Co-glycerides (Softisan 100, LOI Oleo) 8.95 B Lauroyl Lysine (AMIHQPE LL, -AJinomoto) 7.5 D Isododecane (and) Disteardimonium Hectore (and) Propylene Carbonate (BENIGNE GEL LSD K Elementis) 67.32 Preparation of the white base#:

[0201] In a tank, all the fats are added and the mixture is blended at a temperature above the melting point of the waxes. Once the phase is homogenized, the mixture is cooled while maintaining agitation.

[0202] [Tables2] Ingredients II 12 Cl C2 White Base 45 45 45 45 Preservatives 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 Propanediol .1 I 1 1 Isododecane 13.4 13.4 13.4 13.4 Mother-of-Pearl (i) Contextural2624 (Jointcolor Group) 12 - SunSHINE Golden Sunrise - 16 Cloisonne Bine 626C (Sun Chemical) g - S g Cloisonne Nu Antique Blue 626 CB (Sun Chemical) 12 - 12 Colorons Biackstar Red (Wcit) - 14 - - Mother-of-Pearl (ii) Refiecks Multidimensions Glistening Gold (Sun Chemical) 16 10 16 Reilecks Dimensions Sparkling Blackened Gold (Sun Chemical) - 12 Reflective Glitter SILIGLAM Pure Bio Sparide Süver 1610A'50A-2hex by Sigmund Lindner 4 4 4 4 Value of G 10.17 10.39 8.30 12.91 Preparation of compositions#:

[0203] The pearlescent components are added to the previously prepared white base, and the mixture is homogenized using a planetary mixer (Speedmixer brand) for 2 x 30 seconds at 1000 rpm. The reflective glitter is then added, and mixing is continued with the same equipment for 2 x 5 seconds at 1000 rpm. The resulting composition according to the invention is packaged in a hot water bottle fitted with a dip applicator with a flocked tip. Results

[0204] The G values ​​were measured with a BYK Mac-I multi-angle spectrophotometer according to the measurement protocol described above.

[0205] The compositions according to the invention II and 12 have a value of G in accordance with the invention, they are perceived as scintillating on observation and application of the composition, and presenting points of light.

[0206] On the other hand, the Cl and C2 compositions do not allow the desired scintillation effects to be obtained.

[0207] In particular, composition Cl contains a mica-based nacre content exceeding 30% and is free of borosilicate-based nacre. It has a G value of less than 9 and is characterized by a matte effect upon observation and application of the composition.

[0208] Composition C2 has a mica-based nacre content of less than 18% and a borosilicate-based nacre content much greater than 20%, it has a G value greater than 11 and is characterized by a glittery effect when the composition is observed and applied.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition, in particular cosmetic, especially makeup and / or skincare of keratinous materials, comprising: (i) 10% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one mother-of-pearl based on synthetic mica or natural mica and at least one compound selected from titanium dioxide and / or iron oxide and / or silicon dioxide and / or tin dioxide and / or ferric ferrocyanide and / or carbon black, or mixtures thereof; (ii) 8% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one mother-of-pearl based on calcium aluminium borosilicate, or calcium sodium borosilicate, titanium dioxide, optionally silica (or silicon dioxide or Silica), tin dioxide and / or iron oxide, and optionally at least one mineral or organic pigment, or mixtures thereof;and (iii) 2% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one optical effect material selected from reflective glitters comprising at least cellulose and / or a cellulose derivative; said composition having a G value between 9 and 11, measured using a multi-angle spectrophotometer.

2. Composition according to the preceding claim, comprising from 10 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of mother-of-pearl based on natural mica.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 0% to 16% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of synthetic mica-based nacre(s).

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 8% to 17% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of nacre(s) (ii) selected from nacres based on calcium sodium borosilicate, silica and titanium dioxide, tin dioxide, and optionally at least one mineral or organic pigment, synthetic, natural or of natural origin, and mixtures thereof.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, said optical effect material(s) (iii) being selected among the silver particles with or without holographic effect, preferably silver with holographic effect.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, said optical effect material(s) (iii) being selected from reflective glitter comprising at least cellulose, regenerated cellulose or cellulose acetate, and more preferably regenerated cellulose or cellulose acetate, preferably regenerated cellulose.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, said optical effect material(s) (iii) being selected from glitter comprising a support comprising at least 60% by weight, preferably at least 70% by weight, of cellulose and / or cellulose derivative, preferably cellulose, regenerated cellulose or cellulose acetate, preferably regenerated cellulose.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, said optical effect material(s) (iii) being selected from particles having a maximum diameter size in the principal direction of particle extension ranging from 0.02 mm to 7.0 mm, in particular ranging from 0.05 mm to 6.0 mm, more particularly from 0.06 mm to 2.0 mm, preferably ranging from 0.1 mm to 0.5 mm, more preferably ranging from 0.1 mm to 0.4 mm.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, said optical effect material(s) (iii) selected from reflective glitter comprising at least cellulose and / or a cellulose derivative being present in a content of 3% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, said optical effect material(s) (iii) selected from reflective glitter comprising less than 10% by weight of polymers or copolymers selected from polyethylene terephthalate, butylene terephthalate, acrylate polymers, styrene acrylate copolymers, polyurethanes and mixtures thereof, relative to their total weight.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one volatile oil, hydrocarbon or silicone, preferably hydrocarbon.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising at least one volatile, hydrocarbon or silicone oil, or mixtures thereof, in a content of at least 20% by weight, more particularly between 20% and 50% by weight, more particularly between 25% and 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one volatile oil, in particular selected from hydrocarbon volatile oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one solid fat, in particular selected from waxes, pasty fat compounds, or mixtures thereof.

15. Cosmetic method for making up and / or caring for keratinous materials, in particular skin, in particular eyelids, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratinous materials, in particular skin, in particular eyelids, a composition according to any one of the preceding claims.