Cosmetic composition comprising Camellia oleifera oils, liquid fatty esters and solid fatty substances, and cosmetic processing method

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic composition, particularly for hair care, comprising Camellia oleifera oils in a content of at least 0.15% by weight, liquid fatty esters, and solid fats. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process, particularly for cleansing and / or conditioning hair, using said composition.

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition comprising Camellia oleifera oils, liquid fatty esters and solid fats, and cosmetic processing method

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, particularly for hair, comprising specific liquid and solid fats, in combination with a specific vegetable oil. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method for keratinous materials, particularly hair, using said composition.

[0002] Hair can generally be damaged and weakened by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and weather, as well as by mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, perming and / or straightening, or even repeated washing.

[0003] Hair is thus damaged by these different factors and can eventually become dry, rough, brittle or dull, especially in fragile areas, and more particularly at the tips.

[0004] Thus, to remedy these drawbacks, it is common to use hair care compositions specifically designed to condition the hair by providing it with satisfactory cosmetic properties. These hair care compositions may be, for example, conditioners, masks, or serums, and may be in the form of gels, hair lotions, and conditioning creams of varying thicknesses.

[0005] It is also known to use conditioner-type compositions comprising solid fatty esters, camellia oil, and fatty amine-type cationic surfactants. However, these compositions can be further improved, particularly with regard to their cosmetic properties for the hair, by providing a high level of cosmetic benefits, notably improved smoothness and feel. Compositions that strengthen and / or repair hair, especially damaged hair, through more homogeneous coating of the hair fiber are also being sought.

[0006] Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, that is, products whose design and development take environmental issues into account, is becoming a major concern in order to help address global challenges. It is therefore essential to offer more sustainable compositions that can thus meet these environmental challenges. In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions. with a good carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or with a good index of naturalness and / or of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin, while reducing the use of petrochemical compounds.

[0007] There is therefore a real need to develop cosmetic compositions, particularly for hair, which are capable of giving hair, especially damaged hair, improved cosmetic properties.

[0008] The aim of the present invention is to propose a composition and a process for treating keratinous materials which provide a high level of cosmetic performance, particularly for damaged hair.

[0009] This objective is achieved with the present invention, which therefore relates in particular to a cosmetic composition, especially for hair, comprising:

[0010] - one or more Camellia oleifera oils, in a total content exceeding or equal to 0.15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0011] - one or more liquid fatty esters, and

[0012] - one or more solid fats.

[0013] The composition according to the invention provides a very good level of softening (or suppleness) to the keratin fibers: the hair is more supple, less stiff; the hair has more movement, bounce, and appears more natural. The softening of the hair is particularly noticeable on wet hair: after application of the composition, the hair instantly becomes supple, fluid, and smooth under water. It appears more transformed and treated.

[0014] The hair also appears smooth to the touch, with a homogeneity of coating and texture of the keratin fibers from root to tip. The hair appears more regular and has a particularly homogeneous coating, an absence of roughness to the touch, and irregularities of the damaged scales are no longer perceptible to the touch; the smoothness of the hair is both visual and tactile, and the hair therefore appears to be repaired.

[0015] The composition according to the invention therefore makes it possible to provide advantageous cosmetic properties to the hair, such as suppleness, softness, a smooth visual and tactile character, ease of detangling, particularly on the most damaged hair.

[0016] In addition, visually, there is an increase in shine to the hair after application of the composition.

[0017] In this application, and unless otherwise indicated:

[0018] - by "keratinous materials" means keratinous fibers (in particular the hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails) as well as the skin of the body and face, including the scalp;

[0019] - the term "at least one" is equivalent to "one or more" and can be substituted; and

[0020] - the boundaries of a domain of values ​​are included in that domain, in particular in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...", expressions which can be substituted for one another. Camellia oleifera oil

[0021] The composition also includes one or more camellia oils belonging to the species Camellia oleifera.

[0022] The oil or oils may be extracted from all or part of the plant, in particular from the stem, leaves, buds, roots, flowers, petals and / or seeds; advantageously, the oil is extracted from the seeds.

[0023] Extraction can be carried out by any method known to those skilled in the art; advantageously, it is carried out by pressing, in particular by cold pressing, of the plant or part(s) of the plant in question. After extraction, the oil can be purified.

[0024] Preferably, Camellia oleifera seed oil is used, in particular obtained by pressing Camellia oleifera seeds.

[0025] In the context of the invention, the oil having the INCI name "CAMELLIA OLEIFERA SEED OIL" can in particular be used.

[0026] The composition according to the invention comprises Camellia oleifera oil(s) in a total quantity greater than or equal to 0.15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0027] In particular, the composition according to the invention may include Camellia oleifera seed oil(s) in a total quantity greater than or equal to 0.15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0028] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises Camellia oleifera oil(s) in a total quantity ranging from 0.15 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.17 to 2% by weight, even better from 0.18 to 1.5% by weight, preferably from 0.20 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0029] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the Camellia oleifera seed oil(s) in a total quantity ranging from 0.15 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.17 to 2% by weight, even better from 0.18 to 1.5% by weight, preferably from 0.20 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Liquid fatty esters

[0030] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more liquid fatty esters.

[0031] Said liquid fatty esters are different from the Camellia oleifera oils previously described, as well as, in general, from triglyceride-type oils such as vegetable oils.

[0032] The term "liquid" means that the compound has a melting point less than or equal to 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa). For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by TA Instruments. In the present application, all melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa).

[0033] The term "fatty" means that the compound (in particular an alcohol, acid, or ester) comprises at least one hydrocarbon chain consisting of 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 32 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted, for example, by one or more (in particular 1 to 4) hydroxyl (OH) groups. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

[0034] By "ester", we usually mean an ester of carboxylic acid and alcohol.

[0035] The liquid fatty esters are non-siliconized (do not include Si-O bonds). They are neither (poly)oxyalkylated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0036] The liquid fatty acid ester(s) that may be used in the context of the present invention are preferably fatty acid esters, in particular C1-C40 carboxylic acid esters, especially C2-C32, even better C3-C28, or even C4-C22 (the chain length indicated being that of the acid), said acid being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted, for example, by one or more (in particular 1 to 4) hydroxyl (OH) groups.

[0037] Said carboxylic acid may be a mono- or a poly-acid, preferably a mono-acid.

[0038] Said carboxylic acid may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated. Preferably, said acid is not substituted.

[0039] Advantageously, said carboxylic acid is a mono-acid, linear or branched, saturated (and not substituted) at C1-C40, in particular at C2-C32, even better at C3-C28, or even at C4-C22.

[0040] In particular, said acid may be a linear saturated (unsubstituted) monoacid in C8-C22, especially in C10-C20, or even in C12-C18, or branched in C3-C11, better in C4-C10, or even in C5-C9.

[0041] The liquid fatty ester(s) that may be used in the context of the present invention are preferably C1-C40 carboxylic acid and alcohol esters, in particular C2-C32, even better C3-C28, or even C4-C22 (the chain length indicated being that of the alcohol), said alcohol being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted.

[0042] Said alcohol may be a mono-alcohol or a polyol, preferably a mono-alcohol.

[0043] Said alcohol may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated. preferably, said alcohol is not substituted.

[0044] Advantageously, said alcohol is a mono-alcohol, linear or branched, saturated (and not substituted) at C1-C40, in particular at C2-C32, even better at C3-C28, or even at C4-C22.

[0045] In particular, said alcohol may be a linear saturated (non-substituted) mono-alcohol in C8-C22, especially in C10-C20, or even in C12-C18, or branched in C3-C15, better in C3-C13, or even in C3-C9.

[0046] Thus, the liquid fatty esters that can be used within the framework of the present invention are advantageously, alone or in mixture, esters of carboxylic acid in C1-C40, in particular in C2-C32, even better in C3-C28, or even in C4-C22 (the chain length indicated being that of the acid), said acid being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, possibly substituted, for example by one or more (in particular 1 to 4) hydroxyl (OH) groups; and of alcohol in C1-C40, in particular in C2-C32, even better in C3-C28, or even in C4-C22 (the chain length indicated being that of the alcohol), said alcohol being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, possibly substituted; preferably at least one of the alcohol or the acid being branched.

[0047] Among the liquid fatty esters that may be used, mention may be made in particular of the esters of saturated or unsaturated mono- or poly-aliphatic acids, linear in Cl to C26 or branched in C3 to C26 and of saturated or unsaturated mono- or poly-aliphatic alcohols, linear in Cl to C26 or branched in C3 to C26, the total number of carbons of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

[0048] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or acid is branched.

[0049] Preferably, mention may be made of esters of linear or branched monoacids, saturated (and unsubstituted) at C1-C40, in particular at C2-C32, even better at C3-C28, or even at C4-C22; and of linear or branched monoalcohols, saturated at C1-C40, in particular in C2-C32, even better in C3-C28, or even in C4-C22; at least one of the alcohol or acid being branched.

[0050] Advantageously, one can cite the esters of linear saturated (unsubstituted) monoacid in C8-C22, especially in C10-C20, or even in C12-C18, or branched in C3-C11, better in C4-C10, or even in C5-C9; and of linear saturated (unsubstituted) monoalcohol in C8-C22, especially in C10-C20, or even in C12-C18, or branched in C3-C15, better in C3-C13, or even in C3-C9; at least one of the alcohol or acid being branched.

[0051] In particular, one can cite, alone or in mixtures, the following:

[0052] - ethyl, isopropyl, isostearyl, ethyl-2-hexyl or 2- octyldecyl;

[0053] - isopropyl or ethyl myristates,

[0054] - isoamyl, isocetyl or 2-hexyldecyl laurates

[0055] - isononyl, isotridecyl, cetearyl, octyl or 2-ethyl isononanoates hexyl,

[0056] - isodecyl or isostearyl neopentanates,

[0057] - ethyl-2-hexyl, isocetyl or isobutyl stearates.

[0058] - isostearyl, isocetyl, or isodecyl octanoates;

[0059] - decyl or isodecyl oleates;

[0060] - isocetyl isostearate;

[0061] - octyldodecyl or oleyl erucates.

[0062] - octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate;

[0063] - isostearyl lactate, lauryl lactate, linoleyl lactate, lactate of oleyl.

[0064] In a preferred embodiment, the liquid fatty ester(s) may be selected from liquid C14-C18 carboxylic acid and Cl-C5 alcohol esters.

[0065] Among said liquid esters of C14-C18 carboxylic acid and Cl-C5 alcohol, we may mention in particular the esters of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono- or polyacids, linear in C14-C18 or branched in C14-C18, and of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, linear in C1-C5 or branched in C3-C5.

[0066] Preferably, one or more esters of mono-carboxylic acid in C14-C18 and mono-alcohol in C1-C5 are used.

[0067] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched, preferably the alcohol.

[0068] Better still, one or more liquid esters of linear monocarboxylic acid in C14-C18 are used, especially in C15-17, even better in C16, and of branched monoalcohol in C3-C5, especially in C3.

[0069] In particular, liquid esters of myristic acid, palmitic acid or stearic acid, and of C1-C5 monoalcohols, in particular of C3-C5 branched monoalcohols, and in particular isopropyl myristate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, isobutyl stearate and mixtures thereof.

[0070] Even better, the liquid fatty ester(s) are chosen from isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0071] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the liquid fatty ester(s) in a total quantity of 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular 0.2 to 5% by weight, better 0.5 to 4% by weight, even better 1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0072] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the liquid fatty esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear C1-C26 or C3-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear C1-C26 or C3-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total number of carbons of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, in a total amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular 0.2 to 5% by weight, better 0.5 to 4% by weight, even better 1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0073] Better, the composition according to the invention comprises the liquid fatty ester(s) of linear C8-C22 saturated (unsubstituted) monoacid, in particular C10-C20, or even C12-C18, or branched C3-C11, better C4-C10, or even C5-C9; and of linear C8-C22 saturated (unsubstituted) monoalcohol, in particular C10-C20, or even C12-C18, or branched C3-C15, better C3-C13, or even C3-C9; at least one of the alcohol or acid being branched; in a total quantity ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.2 to 5% by weight, better from 0.5 to 4% by weight, even better from 1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0074] Preferably, in the composition according to the invention, the weight ratio between the total quantity of liquid fatty ester(s) on the one hand, and the total quantity of Camellia oleifera oil(s) on the other hand, is greater than or equal to 1, better greater than or equal to 2, even better greater than or equal to 3, even better greater than or equal to 3.5, or even greater than or equal to 3.8, even better greater than or equal to 4, or even to 5.

[0075] Advantageously, this weight ratio can be between 1 and 20, or even between 2 and 20, especially between 3 and 18, better between 3.5 and 15, even better between 3.8 and 12, or even between 4 and 10, and preferably between 5 and 8. solid fats

[0076] The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more solid fats. This or these fats are non-siliconized (do not contain Si-O bonds).

[0077] The term "solid" means that the compound has a melting point strictly greater than 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa).

[0078] Solid fats can be chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes, butters and ceramides, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0079] Advantageously, the solid fats usable in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0080] By "fatty acids" is meant a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, better from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. Preferably, they are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

[0081] The solid fatty acids usable in the present invention are in particular selected from myristic acid, cetyl acid, stearylic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0082] By "fatty alcohol" is meant a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolated. The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and comprise from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better from 12 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0083] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols have an R-OH structure with R designating a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, comprising 8 to 40, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better 12 to 30, or even 12 to 24 atoms, even better 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0084] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably chosen from saturated monoalcohols, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, comprising 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better 10 to 30, or even 12 to 24 atoms, even better 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0085] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be chosen from, alone or in mixture, myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0086] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristic alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetostearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferred, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, Stearyl alcohol or mixtures thereof such as cetostearyl alcohol; better, the solid fatty alcohol is cetostearyl alcohol.

[0087] The solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters that may be used are preferably chosen from esters derived from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohol, different from the liquid fatty esters above; better, they are chosen from esters derived from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and C9-C26 fatty alcohol.

[0088] Preferably, the solid fatty acid esters are esters of saturated linear or branched carboxylic acids comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of saturated linear or branched monoalcohols comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

[0089] Esters of di- or tricarboxylic acids in C4-C22 and of alcohols in C1-C22 and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated alcohols in C2-C26 can also be used.

[0090] Examples include octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyle stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyle myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, din-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, maleate dioctyl, octyl palmitate, myristyle palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0091] Preferably, the solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters are selected from solid fatty acid and fatty alcohol esters, and more preferably from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyle, cetyl, stearyl palmitates; C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyle myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, in particular myristyle, cetyl and stearyl stearates; and mixtures thereof.

[0092] In a particularly preferred manner, the solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters are selected from myristyle stearate, myristyle palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0093] A wax, as defined in the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid phase change, a melting point above approximately 40°C and up to 200°C, and exhibiting an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state. In general, the size of the wax crystals is such that they diffract and / or scatter light, giving the composition containing them a cloudy, more or less opaque appearance. By heating the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by returning the mixture to room temperature, the wax recrystallizes, detectable both microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence).

[0094] In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention can be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral origin, non-siliconized synthetic waxes and their mixtures.

[0095] Examples include hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina), lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, spermaceti; cork or sugar cane fiber waxes, olive wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax, absolute flower waxes; Montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, petroleum jelly, lignite and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.

[0096] We can also mention microcrystalline waxes in C2 to C60, such as Microwax HW.

[0097] We can also mention PM 500 polyethylene wax marketed under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.

[0098] We can also mention waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched fatty chains, in C8 to C32.

[0099] Among these, we can mention in particular isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular that manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the trade reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di-(trimethyloi-1,1,1 propane tetrastearate), in particular that sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE.

[0100] Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified castor oil with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM, can also be used.

[0101] As a wax, a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms) can also be used, alone or in a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the name "Kester Wax". K 82 P®”, “Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®” and “Kester Wax K 80 P®” by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.

[0102] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention;Examples include camauba microwaxes, such as the one marketed under the name MicroCare 350® by MICRO POWDERS; synthetic wax microwaxes, such as the one marketed under the name MicroEase 114S® by MICRO POWDERS; microwaxes made from a mixture of camauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those marketed under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by MICRO POWDERS; microwaxes made from a mixture of camauba wax and synthetic wax, such as the one marketed under the name Micro Care 325® by MICRO POWDERS; polyethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by MICRO POWDERS; and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company MICRO POWDERS. ;

[0103] Waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes such as paraffin wax, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite; vegetable waxes such as cork or sugar cane fiber waxes, olive wax, rice bran wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax, Camauba wax, Candelila wax, Alfa wax, or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the BERTIN company (France); waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.

[0104] Ceramides or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, which can be used in compositions according to the invention, are known; in particular, ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the DAWNING classification may be mentioned.

[0105] Particularly preferred compounds include 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxy-palmitoyl]-amino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-stearoyl amino-octadecane-1,3,4-triol and in particular N-stearoyl phytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylamino-hexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl N-methyl-D-glucamine, N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide of cetyl acid and bis-(N- hydroxyethyl N-cetyl) malonamide; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine should be used.

[0106] One or more butters can also be used.

[0107] For the purposes of this invention, "butter" (also called "pasty fat") means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid change of state and comprising, at a temperature of 25°C and atmospheric pressure, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

[0108] Preferably, the butters according to the invention have a melting start temperature above 25°C and a melting end temperature below 60°C, at atmospheric pressure.

[0109] Preferably, the butters are of vegetable origin such as those described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry (“Fats and Fatty Oils”, A. Thomas, Published Online: 15 JUN 2000, DOI: 10.1002 / 14356007.al0_173, point 13.2.2.2. Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)).

[0110] Particular examples include shea butter, Nilotica shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or tengkawang tallow (Shorea stenoptera), Shorea butter, Illipe butter, Madhuca butter or Bassia Madhuca longifolia, mowrah butter (Madhuca Latifolia), Katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), Phulwara butter (M.butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), Murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), Kokum butter (Garcinia Indica), Ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), Tucuma butter, Painya (Kpangnan) butter (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus Armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia Ternifolia), grape seed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis), cocoa butter and sunflower butter, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0111] Shea butter (INCI name: BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTER) is an example of a preferred butter.

[0112] Preferably, the solid fats are chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0113] Better still, the solid fats are chosen from among, alone or in mixtures, saturated monoalcohols, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, still better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms; esters of saturated carboxylic acid, linear or branched, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of saturated monoalcohol, linear or branched, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, of preference of 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly of 12 to 24 carbon atoms, the saturated carboxylic acids being possibly hydroxylated.

[0114] Even better, the composition according to the invention comprises both one or more saturated monoalcohols, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, having from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms; and one or more esters of saturated carboxylic acid, linear or branched, having at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of saturated monoalcohol, linear or branched, having at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, the saturated carboxylic acids being optionally hydroxylated.

[0115] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the solid fat(s) in a total quantity ranging from 0.1 to 25% by weight, in particular from 1 to 20% by weight, better from 2 to 18% by weight, preferably from 3 to 15% by weight, better still from 5 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0116] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the solid fat(s) selected from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof, in a total quantity ranging from 0.1 to 25% by weight, in particular from 1 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 18% by weight, preferably from 3 to 15% by weight, and even more preferably from 5 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Fatty amine-type surfactants

[0117] The composition according to the invention may optionally include one or more cationic surfactants, preferably one or more cationic surfactants of the fatty amine type, which may advantageously be chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, possibly polyoxyalkylated, or their salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0118] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants of the fatty amine type.

[0119] The term “fatty amine” means a compound comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, possibly (poly)oxyalkylated, or its salts and comprising at least one C6-C3O hydrocarbon chain, preferably C8-C3O. Said cationic surfactants are non-siliconized, that is to say they do not contain a Si-O group.

[0120] Preferably, the useful fatty amines according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylated.

[0121] Fatty amines include amidoamines. The amidoamines according to the invention can advantageously be chosen from among the fatty amidoamines, the fatty chain being able to be borne by the amine group or by the amido group.

[0122] Amidoamine is understood to mean a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.

[0123] Fatty amidoamine is understood to be an amidoamine comprising, in general, at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain.

[0124] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylated.

[0125] Among the fatty amidoamines according to the invention, particular mention may be made of amidoamines of formula RCONHR”N(R')2 in which:

[0126] - R represents a monovalent linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a C5-C29 alkyl radical, preferably C7-C23, linear or branched, or a C5-C29 alkenyl radical, preferably C7-C23, linear or branched;

[0127] - R' ' represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 atoms of carbon, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, better, 3 carbon atoms; and - R', identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a methyl radical.

[0128] Examples include the following fatty amidoamines: oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and their mixtures.

[0129] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof; preferably among stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof, preferably stearamidopropyl dimethylamine

[0130] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are not in quatemized form when introduced into the composition according to the invention (which does not exclude the fact that they may quatemize in situ).

[0131] Preferably, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the invention, when present, can range from 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 8% by weight, better from 0.3 to 7% by weight, better still from 0.4 to 6% by weight, preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0132] Preferably, the total content of fatty amine cationic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the invention, when present, can range from 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 8% by weight, better from 0.3 to 7% by weight, better still from 0.4 to 6% by weight, preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0133] Preferably, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) selected from fatty amidoamines in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 8% by weight, better from 0.3 to 7% by weight, better still from 0.4 to 6% by weight, preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0134] Preferably, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) selected from fatty amidoamines of formula RCONHR”N(R')2, their salts, and mixtures thereof, in the composition according to the invention, may range from 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.3 to 7% by weight, even more preferably from 0.4 to 6% by weight, preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional fatty substances

[0135] The composition according to the invention may optionally include one or more additional fatty substances, different from the solid fatty substances and liquid fatty esters above, and which may be chosen from, alone or in mixture, silicones, liquid hydrocarbons, non-(poly)alkylated liquid fatty alcohols, triglyceride-type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin other than Camellia oleifera oils above, mineral oils.

[0136] Liquid hydrocarbons can be C6-C18, and be linear, branched, possibly cyclic; they are preferably chosen from among the C8-C16 alkanes, in particular C10-C14. By way of example, hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and mixtures thereof may be cited.

[0137] Liquid hydrocarbons may also be selected from those comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic; examples include paraffin or petroleum jelly oils, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.

[0138] Non-(poly)alkylated liquid fatty alcohols may be selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched, having from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol or linoleic alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0139] Triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin may be chosen from liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acid or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, castor, avocado oils, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0140] Silicones, volatile or non-volatile, may be in the form of oil, wax, resin or gum; silicone oils and gums are preferred.

[0141] Volatile silicones can be selected from those possessing a boiling point between 60 and 260°C (at atmospheric pressure), particularly among:

[0142] i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising 3 to 7 silicon atoms, preferably 4 to 5, such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane; cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type with the chemical structure:

[0143] mixtures of cyclic silicones with silicon-derived organic compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-l,r-(hexa-2,2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane;

[0144] ii) linear polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms, which generally have a viscosity less than or equal to 5.106 m2 / s at 25°C, such as decamethyltetrasiloxane.

[0145] Among non-volatile silicones, one can cite, alone or in mixture, polydialkylsiloxanes and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydiarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, as well as organopolysiloxanes (or organomodified polysiloxanes, or organomodified silicones) which are polysiloxanes having in their structure one or more organofunctional groups, generally fixed by means of a hydrocarbon group, and preferably chosen from aryl groups, amine groups, alkoxy groups and polyoxyethylenated, or polyoxypropylenated groups.

[0146] Organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned above. Polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from among polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes.

[0147] Among organomodified silicones, organopolysiloxanes comprising: - polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene groups possibly containing C6-C24 alkyl groups such as dimethicone copolyols; - substituted or unsubstituted amine groups, in particular C1-C4 aminoalkyl groups;

[0148] - alkoxylated groups;

[0149] - hydroxylated groups, such as polyorganosiloxanes with functional hydroxyalkyl; - acyloxyalkyl groups;

[0150] - anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, of the alkyl- type carboxylic, or of the type 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate or 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulfate;

[0151] - hydroxyacylamino groups.

[0152] Silicones can also be chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which we can mainly mention polydimethylsiloxanes with terminal trimethylsilyl groups.

[0153] We can also mention polydimethylsiloxanes with terminal dimethylsilanol groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA).

[0154] Polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from among polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with viscosities ranging from 1.10-5 to 5.10-2m2 / s at 25°C.

[0155] The silicones that may be used may be amine silicones. An amine silicone is defined as any silicone containing at least one primary, secondary, tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.

[0156] Preferably, the amine-based silicone(s) that may be used in the context of the invention are chosen from:

[0157] a) polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (A): in which x' and y' are integers such that the average molecular weight by weight (Mw) is between approximately 5,000 and 500,000;

[0158] b) Amino silicones corresponding to formula (B):

[0159] R'aG3 a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR'2 b)mO-SiG3 a-R'a (B) wherein:

[0160] - G, identical or different, designates a hydrogen atom, a phenyl group, OH, alkyl in C1-C8, for example methyl, or alkoxy in C1-C8, for example methoxy, - a, same or different, denotes 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, - b denotes 0 or 1, in particular 1,

[0161] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; - R', identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number from 2 to 8, and L is an amine group possibly quatemized chosen from the groups: -N(R")2 ; -N+(R")3 A ; -NR"-QN(R")2 and -NR"-Q-N+(R")3 A , in which R", identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, for example a Ci-C20 alkyl radical; Q denotes a group of formula CrH2r, linear or branched, r being an integer from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A- represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, in particular a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

[0162] Preferably, the amine-based silicones of formula (B) are chosen from among the amine-based silicones corresponding to the following formulas (C), (D), (E), (F), (G):

[0163] A / silicones designated "trimethylsilylamodimethicone" corresponding to formula (C): OSi( CH in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10.

[0164] B / silicones of the following formula (D): in which:

[0165] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n can designate a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175 and m can designate a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, more particularly from 1 to 5;

[0166] - Ri, R2, R3, whether identical or different, represent a hydroxy or alkoxy radical in Ci -C4, at least one of the radicals Ri to R3 designating an alkoxy radical.

[0167] Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical. The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1. The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1,000,000, more particularly from 3500 to 200,000.

[0168] C / silicones of the following formula (E):

[0169]

[0170]

[0171]

[0172] in which: - p and q are numbers such that the sum (p+q) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; p can designate a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239 and q can designate a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; - Ri, R2, different, represent a hydroxy or alkoxy radical in C1-C4, at least one of the radicals Ri or R2 designating an alkoxy radical. Preferably, the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical. The hydroxyl / alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1, and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1, and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95. The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of silicone preferably ranges from 2000 to 200000, and even more particularly from 5000 to 100000, and more particularly from 10000 to 50000. D / silicones with the following formula (F):

[0173] in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; - A designates a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.

[0174] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1000000 and even more particularly from 3500 to 200000.

[0175] E / silicones of the following formula (G): in which:

[0176] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n can designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m can designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; - A designates a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.

[0177] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1,000,000 and even more particularly from 1,000 to 200,000.

[0178] Other amino silicones that could be used include:

[0179] (i) Amino silicones conforming to formula (H): (H) in which:

[0180] - R5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 atoms of carbon, and in particular an alkyl radical in Ci-Ci8, or alkenyl in C2-Ci8, for example methyl;

[0181] - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkylene radical in C1-C18 or a divalent alkyleneoxy radical in Ci-Ci8, for example in CrC8 linked to Si by a SiC bond;

[0182] - Q is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an acid salt organic, in particular acetate;

[0183] - r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 20, in particular from 2 to 8; - s represents an average statistical value ranging from 20 to 200, in particular from 20 to 50.

[0184] (ii) quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (I): in which:

[0185] - R7, identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular an alkyl radical in Ci-Ci8, an alkenyl radical in C2-Ci8 or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;

[0186] - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkylene radical in CrCi8 or a divalent alkyleneoxy radical in CrCi8, for example in CrC8 linked to Si by a SiC bond;

[0187] - R8, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a radical monovalent hydrocarbon having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular an alkyl radical in Ci-Ci8, an alkenyl radical in C2-Ci8, an -R6-NHCOR7 radical; - X is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or a salt of organic acid, in particular acetate;

[0188] - r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 200, in particular from 5 to 100.

[0189] (iii) Amino silicones of formula (J): in which:

[0190] - Ri, R2, R3 and R4, whether identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group,

[0191] - R5 designates a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group, - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,

[0192] - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and

[0193] - x is chosen such that the amine index varies from 0.01 to 1 meq / g.

[0194] (iv) multiblock polyoxyalkylened amine silicones, of type (AB)n, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylened block comprising at least one amine group.

[0195] Said silicones are preferably made up of repeating units of the following general formulas:

[0196] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2 - R -N(R")- R'-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b -R'-N(H)-R-] or else

[0197] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2 - R -N(R")- R' - O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b -]

[0198] in which:

[0199] - a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably from 5 to 200, plus

[0200] particularly ranging from 10 to 100;

[0201] - b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably from 4 to 100, plus particularly between 5 and 30;

[0202] - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10000, more particularly from 10 to 5000; - R" is a hydrogen atom or a methyl;

[0203] - R, identical or different, represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical in C2-Ci2 , linear or branched, possibly comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2 CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferably R denotes an H2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; - R', identical or different, represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical in C2-Ci2, linear or branched, possibly comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R' denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2 CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferably R' denotes -CH(CH3)-CH2-.

[0204] The siloxane blocks preferably represent 50 and 95% by moles of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly 70 to 85% by moles.

[0205] The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.

[0206] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1000000, more particularly between 10000 and 200000.

[0207] (v) alpha, omega-bis-amine silicones corresponding to the following formula (K): in which: - the R radicals, independently of each other, represent a hydrogen atom, an OH group, or a linear or branched alkyl group in the C1-C4 configuration; - the RI, R2, R3, and R4 radicals, independently of each other, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl group, or a C1-C6 aminoalkyl group;

[0208] - x is between 0 and 6; y is between 0 and 6, and

[0209] - n is such that the molecular mass by weight (Mw) of the amino silicon is included between 5,000 and 200,000 g / mol.

[0210] Preferably, the R radicals are identical and represent CH3 (methyl).

[0211] Preferably, RI, R2, R3 and R4, independently of each other, represent a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, preferably linear saturated, in CrC4, better C2-C4, in particular ethyl; or an aminoalkyl group in C2-C4, in particular of structure -(CaH2a)-NH2 with a = 2 to 4; in particular aminoethyl (-CH2-CH2-NH2).

[0212] Preferably, x is between 1 and 5, better between 2 and 4, even better x=3.

[0213] Preferably, y is between 1 and 5, better between 2 and 4, even better y=3.

[0214] Preferably, x=y.

[0215] Preferably, n is such that the average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of the silicone is between 10,000 and 150,000 g / mol, or even between 15,000 and 100,000 g / mol

[0216] More preferably, the amino silicone corresponds to the formula (K) in which the radicals R represent a methyl group, x = y = 3 and RI, R2, R3 and R4 represent a hydrogen atom; it is then a bis-aminopropyl dimethicone (INCI name).

[0217] Preferably, the additional fatty substances are chosen from silicones, in particular amino silicones.

[0218] When present, the composition according to the invention may include the additional fat(s) in a total quantity ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0219] When present, the composition according to the invention may comprise the silicone(s) in a total quantity ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0220] When present, the composition according to the invention may comprise the amino silicone(s) in a total quantity ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Polyols

[0221] The composition according to the invention may optionally include one or more polyols.

[0222] For the purposes of this invention, "polyol" means an organic compound consisting of a hydrocarbon chain optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms and bearing at least two free hydroxyl groups (-OH) preferably on different carbon atoms, this compound being able to be cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

[0223] More particularly, the polyol(s) comprise from 2 to 30 hydroxy groups, preferably from 2 to 10 hydroxy groups, preferably from 2 to 3 hydroxy groups. Preferably, they comprise from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0224] Advantageously, the polyol(s) are selected from diglycerin, glycerin, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane-1,2-diol, octane-1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, sugars such as glucose and mixtures thereof; preferably from glycerin, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane-1,2-diol, octane-1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof; and even better from glycerin, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof.

[0225] When present, the polyol(s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, even better from 0.2 to 5% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5 to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Other ingredients

[0226] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises water or a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents selected from Ci-C4 alcohols, in particular monoalcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; and mixtures thereof.

[0227] The composition according to the invention may comprise water, preferably in a total content of between 65 and 98% by weight, preferably between 70 and 95% by weight, preferably between 75 and 92% by weight, even better between 80 and 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0228] The pH of the composition according to the invention generally varies from 3 to 7, preferably from 3.5 to 6, preferably from 3.6 to 5.5.

[0229] The composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise one or more linear or branched carboxylic acids, comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; preferably, they conform to the formula (I) below:

[0230] in which:

[0231] - n is an integer between 0 and 2, better n=0 or 1, preferably n=0;

[0232] - A is a monovalent hydrocarbon group (when n=0) or a multivalent hydrocarbon group (when n is different from 0), saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched, cyclic, or even aromatic, comprising 1 to 5 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, possibly substituted by one or more hydroxyl (-OH) and / or amino (NH2) groups.

[0233] In particular, one can cite, alone or in mixture, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, preferably tartaric acid.

[0234] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises said carboxylic acid(s), when present, in a total quantity ranging from 0.01 to 15% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better from 0.2 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.5 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0235] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one or more common cosmetic ingredients, in particular selected from among thickeners, gelling agents, sunscreens; moisturizing agents; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidants; chelating agents; reducing agents; oxidizing bases, couplers, oxidizing agents, direct colorants; straightening agents; pearlescent and opacifying agents; micas, pearlescent pigments, glitter; plasticizing or coalescing agents; pigments; fillers; perfumes; alkalizing or acidifying agents. Those skilled in the art shall take care to select the ingredients used in the composition, as well as their quantities, so as not to impair the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

[0236] The cosmetic composition according to the invention finds in particular a particularly interesting application in the field of hair care, in particular for the cleansing and / or conditioning, especially the conditioning, of hair.

[0237] Hair compositions are preferably conditioners or hair masks; advantageously, the composition according to the invention presents in the form of a conditioner, in particular a rinse-out conditioner.

[0238] The cosmetic composition may or may not be rinsed after being applied to keratinous materials, particularly hair. Rinsing with water may be optional, for example, after any application time. Preferably, it is rinsed after any application time.

[0239] The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process, in particular for cleaning and / or conditioning, especially conditioning, of keratinous materials, in particular keratinous fibers, in particular hair, comprising a step of applying to said keratinous materials, a cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0240] Preferably, a step of rinsing the keratinous materials, for example with water, is implemented after the step of applying the composition according to the invention.

[0241] A drying step of the keratin materials may be provided in the process according to the invention, in particular after the rinsing step, in particular using a heating means such as a hair dryer.

[0242] Preferably, it is a hair treatment process, in particular washing and / or conditioning hair.

[0243] The present invention is illustrated in more detail in the examples that follow. Example 1

[0244] Cosmetic compositions according to invention A and comparative A' are prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below, the quantities of which are expressed as a percentage by weight of active material (%g MA).

[0245] [Tables 1] A (invention) A' (comparative) Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine 3 3 Isopropyl myristate 1.5 1.5 Camellia oleifera oil (INCI: CAMELLIA OLEIFERA SEED OIL) 0.2 0.1 Cetyl esters (INCI: CETYL ESTERS) 2 2 Cetearyl alcohol 7 7 Glycerin 2 2 Tartaric acid 0.7 0.7 Preservatives qs qs Water qsp 100 qsp 100 Sensory evaluation

[0246] Sensitized Caucasian hair strands (SA20) are cleaned by applying a standard shampoo (DOP chamomile), at a rate of 0.3 g per gram of strand. The strands are then rinsed with water for 15 seconds (flow rate: 300 L / h - temperature 35°C).

[0247] Composition A or A' is applied to the still-wet hair strands at a rate of 0.45 g per gram of strand. After a waiting period of 5 minutes, the strand is rinsed with water for 10 seconds (flow rate: 300 L / h - temperature 35°C).

[0248] The suppleness of the hair strands treated with compositions A or A' is evaluated blindly on wet hair, by 5 trained evaluators, and rated on a scale from 0 [not] to 10 [very], in increments of 0.5.

[0249] Flexibility is assessed as follows: the assessor takes the hair in their hands and tries to bend it. The more easily the hair can be bent and curved, the more malleable it is, and the better the flexibility.

[0250] The following results are obtained:

[0251] [Tableaux2] Performance criterion Composition A (invention) Composition A' (comparative) Flexibility Scores: 7 / 7 / 6 / 7 / 8 Average: 7 ± 0.7 Scores: 5 / 5 / 5 / 5 / 5 Average: 5 ± 0

[0252] It is observed that, for all evaluators, composition A according to the invention provides superior cosmetic performance in terms of flexibility compared to composition A'. These results are statistically significant. Measurement of creep force

[0253] Sensitized Caucasian hair strands (SA20) are cleaned by applying a standard shampoo (DOP chamomile), at a rate of 0.3 g per gram of strand. The strands are then rinsed with water for 15 seconds (flow rate: 300 L / h - temperature 35°C).

[0254] Composition A or A' is applied to the still-wet hair strands at a rate of 0.4 g per gram of strand. After a processing time of 5 minutes, the strand is rinsed with water for 10 seconds (flow rate: 300 L / h - temperature 35°C).

[0255] The flexibility of wet hair is evaluated by measuring the creeping force of the strand, moving at a constant speed (500 mm / min), through a path made up of rollers that can rotate on themselves without friction. This method is notably presented in the publication J. Cosmet. Sci.,60, 135-141 (2009). 6 samples are evaluated per condition.

[0256] The lower the force required to pass the wick through the rollers, the more "flexible" the wick is said to be.

[0257] The following results are obtained (average of 6 values):

[0258] [Tables3] Composition A (invention) Composition A' (comparative) Work (rotational W) (mJ) 18.4 + 3.02 26.5 + 4.12

[0259] Comparing condition A with condition A', we find that the p-value is 0.003; the results are therefore statistically very significant.

[0260] Composition A according to the invention therefore provides a cosmetic benefit, notably with significantly improved softening of wet hair. The hair thus appears more transformed and better treated. Example 2

[0261] The compositions according to invention B and C are prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below, the quantities of which are expressed as a percentage by weight of active material (%g MA).

[0262] [Tables4] BC Cetearyl alcohol 7 6.5 Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine 3 3.6 Glycerin 2 2.2 Isopropyl palmitate 2 1.5 Cetyl esters 2 2 Camellia oleifera seed oil 0.5 0.2 Amodimethicone - 0.2 Tartaric acid 0.7 0.8 Preservatives qs qs Water qsp 100 qsp 100

[0263] The compositions thus obtained can be used as a rinse-off hair mask.

[0264] It is observed that they provide good cosmetic performance to the hair, particularly in terms of smoothness, suppleness and softness. The hair appears as if transformed, better treated and less dry than with a traditional mask, and therefore seems repaired.

Claims

Demands

1. Cosmetic composition, in particular hair care, comprising: - one or more Camellia oleifera oils, in a total content greater than or equal to 0.15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, - one or more liquid fatty esters, and - one or more solid fats.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the total content of Camellia oleifera oil(s) ranges from 0.15 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.17 to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.18 to 1.5% by weight, better from 0.20 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the liquid fatty esters are selected from, alone or in mixture, C1-C40 carboxylic acid esters, in particular C2-C32, more preferably C3-C28, or even C4-C22, said acid being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted, for example, by one or more hydroxyl (OH) groups; and C1-C40 alcohol esters, in particular C2-C32, more preferably C3-C28, or even C4-C22, said alcohol being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted; preferably at least one of the alcohol or acid being branched; preferably, among the esters of monoacid, linear or branched, saturated (and not substituted) at C1-C40, in particular at C2-C32, even better at C3-C28, or even at C4-C22; and of monoalcohol, linear or branched, saturated at C1-C40, in particular at C2-C32, even better at C3-C28, or even at C4-C22;at least one of the alcohol or acid being branched; preferably among the esters of linear C8-C22 saturated (unsubstituted) monoacids, especially C10-C20, or even C12-C18, or branched C3-C11, preferably C4-C10, or even C5-C9; and of linear C8-C22 saturated (unsubstituted) monoalcohols, especially C10-C20, or even C12-C18, or branched C3-C15, preferably C3-C13, or even C3-C9; at least one of the alcohol or acid being branched; even better among the liquid esters of C14-C18 carboxylic acids and C1-C5 alcohols; such as liquid esters; of myristic acid, palmitic acid or stearic acid, and of C1-C5 monoalcohols, in particular of C3-C5 branched monoalcohols, and in particular isopropyl myristate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, isobutyl stearate and mixtures thereof.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the liquid fatty ester(s) in a total amount from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.2 to 5% by weight, better from 0.5 to 4% by weight, still better from 1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the weight ratio between the total quantity of liquid fatty ester(s) on the one hand, and the total quantity of Camellia oleifera oil(s) on the other hand, is greater than or equal to 1, better greater than or equal to 2, even better greater than or equal to 3, even better greater than or equal to 3.5, or even greater than or equal to 3.8, even better greater than or equal to 4, or even to 5; preferably is between 1 and 20, or even between 2 and 20, in particular between 3 and 18, better between 3.5 and 15, even better between 3.8 and 12, or even between 4 and 10, and preferably between 5 and 8.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the solid fats are selected from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes, butters and ceramides, and mixtures thereof; preferably from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof; better from, alone or in mixture, saturated monoalcohols, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms;saturated linear or branched carboxylic acid esters, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and saturated linear or branched monoalcohol esters, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly 12 to 24 carbon atoms, the saturated carboxylic acids being optionally hydroxylated.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising solid fats in a total quantity from 0.1 to 25% by weight, in particular from 1 to 20% by weight, better from 2 to 18% by weight, preferably from 3 to 15% by weight, better still from 5 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more cationic surfactants, preferably one or more cationic surfactants of the fatty amine type; in particular selected from fatty amidoamines; preferably from amidoamines of formula RCONHR”N(R')2 in which: - R represents a linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted, having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29 alkyl radical, preferably a linear or branched C7-C23 alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C5-C29 alkenyl radical, preferably a linear or branched C7-C23 alkenyl radical; - R'' represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably 3 carbon atoms;and - R', identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a methyl radical; preferably from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof; even better from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, or brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof; even better stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.;

9. Composition according to claim 8, wherein the total content of cationic surfactant(s) ranges from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 7% by weight, better from 0.4 to 6% by weight, even better from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more additional fatty substances, preferably selected from, alone or in mixture, silicones, liquid hydrocarbons, non-(poly)alkylated liquid fatty alcohols, oils triglyceride type of vegetable or synthetic origin, mineral oils; preferably chosen from silicones, especially amino silicones.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more polyol(s), in particular in a total content of 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising water, in particular in a total content of between 65 and 98% by weight, preferably between 70 and 95% by weight, preferably between 75 and 92% by weight, even better between 80 and 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising one or more linear or branched carboxylic acids, comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; preferably conforming to the formula (I) below:

13. ; ; ? I HO s 0 in which: - n is an integer between 0 and 2, better n=0 or 1, preferably n=0; - A is a monovalent or multivalent hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched, cyclic, or even aromatic, comprising from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, better from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl and / or amino groups; in particular, alone or in mixture, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, preferably tartaric acid.

14. A cosmetic treatment process, in particular for cleaning and / or conditioning, of keratinous materials, in particular keratinous fibers, especially hair, comprising a step of applying to said keratinous materials a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13.

15. A method according to claim 14, wherein a step of rinsing the keratin materials, for example with water, is carried out after the step of applying the composition.