Composition comprising a mixture of microcrystalline wax and non-polar oil selected from branched alkanes

Abstract

Composition comprising a mixture of microcrystalline wax and a nonpolar oil selected from branched alkanes. The present invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising at least one wax consisting of a mixture of long-chain saturated alkanes having a fraction of branched chains, of the microcrystalline wax type, and at least one nonpolar oil liquid at room temperature selected from branched alkanes. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: Composition comprising a mixture of microcrystalline wax and nonpolar oil selected from branched alkanes

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising at least one wax made up of a mixture of long-chain saturated alkanes and comprising at least one long-chain branched saturated alkane, of the microcrystalline wax type and at least one nonpolar oil liquid at room temperature selected from branched alkanes.

[0002] The skin is a tissue whose cells are tightly joined and interconnected. The cutaneous tissue forms an external covering comprising sebaceous or sweat glands and hair follicles. The skin, and in particular the scalp, consists of epithelia that undergo continuous renewal. This renewal, or desquamation, is a coordinated and finely regulated process resulting in the insensible and imperceptible shedding of superficial cells.

[0003] Human skin consists of two compartments, namely a superficial compartment, the epidermis, and a deep compartment, the dermis.

[0004] The epidermis is conventionally divided into a basal layer of keratinocytes constituting the germinal layer of the epidermis, a so-called spinous layer consisting of several layers of polyhedral cells arranged on the germinal layers, one to three so-called granular layers consisting of flattened cells containing distinct cytoplasmic inclusions, the keratohyalin granules and finally, a set of upper layers called stratum corneum, consisting of keratinocytes at the terminal stage of their differentiation called corneocytes.

[0005] Corneocytes are anucleate cells mainly composed of fibrous material containing cytokeratins, surrounded by a corneal envelope. New keratinocytes are constantly produced to compensate for the continuous loss of epidermal cells in the stratum corneum through a mechanism called desquamation.

[0006] However, an imbalance between cell production in the basal layer and the desquamation rate can lead to the formation of scales on the skin surface. Similarly, a deficiency in terminal differentiation of stratum corneum cells, for various reasons, can lead to the formation of large, thick, visible cell clumps known as "scales," or, in other situations, to a thinning of the stratum corneum. This can result in weakened barrier properties of the epidermis and chronic dehydration. of the stratum corneum, a loss of mechanical elasticity, tightness, as well as a lack of radiance and transparency of the skin.

[0007] There is therefore a need for compositions that improve the skin's hydration status, avoiding tightness and feelings of discomfort when applied to the skin, without leaving a sticky film on the skin.

[0008] Compositions based on petroleum jelly (petrolatum) generally offer good performance; however, these compositions are derived from petroleum. The formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products—that is, products whose design and development take environmental issues into account—is becoming a major concern in order to contribute to meeting global challenges. It is therefore essential to offer more sustainable compositions, preparation processes, and / or ingredients that address these environmental challenges.

[0009] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or with a good naturalness index and / or of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin, while reducing the use of petrochemical compounds.

[0010] The inventors have now discovered that combining at least one specific microcrystalline wax and at least one nonpolar oil composed of branched alkane(s) yields a composition that is easy to apply, without a greasy or heavy feeling upon application. Furthermore, this combination produces moisturizing compositions that improve skin elasticity.

[0011] Thus, the present invention relates to a composition comprising: a. at least one wax consisting of a mixture of long-chain saturated alkanes and comprising at least one long-chain branched saturated alkane; b. at least one nonpolar oil selected from among branched alkanes that are liquid at room temperature; and c. optionally, at least one liquid polar oil at room temperature comprising at least one ester, ether, or alcohol function, the weight content of non-polar oil b) being greater than or equal to the weight content of polar oil c),

[0012] wherein the ratio between the quantity of wax a) and the total quantity of wax a) and non-polar oils b) and possibly polar oils c) is between 0.05 and 0.3.

[0013] By "between", we mean the entire range of values, inclusive of bounds.

[0014] The composition according to the invention is preferably cosmetic.

[0015] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for makeup and / or care of keratinous materials, preferably the skin, hair and / or nails keratin fibers, such as hair, including the application to said keratin materials of a composition according to the invention.

[0016] The present invention also relates to the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention to moisturize the skin. Waxes

[0017] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one wax a) consisting of a mixture of long-chain saturated alkanes and comprising at least one long-chain branched saturated alkane.

[0018] By "long chain" is meant a chain having a number of carbons from 20 to 70. Preferably, the wax a) is made up of a mixture of linear alkanes and branched alkanes, said linear and branched alkanes having a number of carbons from 20 to 70.

[0019] The term "wax" refers to a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa), with a reversible solid / liquid phase change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C, up to 200°C, and in particular up to 120°C. Preferably, the wax a) suitable for the invention has a melting point greater than or equal to 45°C. In particular, the wax(s) suitable for the invention may have a melting point greater than or equal to 45°C and less than or equal to 120°C, in particular less than or equal to 90°C.

[0020] For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature (or melting point) corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3:2018.

[0021] The melting point of a wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "Discovery DSC 2500" by TA Instruments with the "TA TRIOS" software. The measurement protocol is as follows:

[0022] A sample of approximately 5 mg of wax is placed in a crucible and subjected to a first heating from -20°C to 120°C at a rate of 10°C / minute, then cooled from 120°C to -20°C at a rate of 10°C / minute, and finally subjected to a second heating from -20°C to 120°C at a rate of 5°C / minute. During the second heating, the melting point of the solid fat is measured, corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the observed melting curve.

[0023] In the context of the invention, the waxes are selected from mixtures of linear alkanes (n-alkanes) and branched alkanes (iso-alkanes) having a number of carbons from 20 to 70, such as microcrystalline waxes (INCI name: CERA MICROCRISTALLINA).

[0024] Examples of microcrystalline waxes include the commercial product PARACERA HW (melting point of approximately 83°C) or the commercial product MICROWAX HW (melting point of approximately 87°C) from the supplier Paramelt, the commercial product WHITEMICROCRISTALLINE WAX SP-18 (melting point of approximately 48.8°C) or MICROCRYSTALLINE WAX SP-96 (melting point of approximately 66.7°C) from the supplier Strahl & Pitsch, the commercial product CEREWAX M 85 / C (melting point of approximately 83.3°C) or CEREWAX N°3 (melting point of approximately 90°C) from the supplier Baerlocher, the commercial product MICROCRYSTALLINE WAX DNW-1705 (melting point of approximately 79°C) from the supplier Dong Nam Petrochemical, or the commercial product MULTIWAX 180 M (melting point of approximately 56.1°C) from the supplier Sonneborn.

[0025] Preferably, the microcrystalline wax(s) is / are present in an amount ranging from 4% to 45% by weight, preferably from 5% to 30% by weight, or even more preferably from 10% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0026] According to the invention, the ratio between the quantity of wax a) and the total quantity of wax a) and non-polar oil(s) b) and optionally polar oil(s) c) is between 0.05 and 0.3. As demonstrated in the examples, this weight ratio of microcrystalline waxes to (microcrystalline waxes + oils) ranging from 0.05 to 0.3 is the only one that makes it possible to obtain the desired texture. In other words, the content of wax a) is greater than or equal to 5% and less than or equal to 30% of the total weight of wax a), non-polar oil(s) b) and optionally polar oil(s) c) (i.e., total weight of wax a) + non-polar oil(s) b) + optionally polar oil(s) c)). This content ranging from 5% to 30% is the only one that makes it possible to obtain the desired texture.

[0027] Preferably, the ratio between the quantity of wax a) and the total quantity of wax a) and non-polar oils b) and possibly polar oils c) is between 0.1 and 0.25.

[0028] Preferably, the weight content of wax a) is strictly less than the weight content of non-polar oil b). Non-polar oils

[0029] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one nonpolar oil b) selected from branched alkanes that are liquid at room temperature.

[0030] By "nonpolar oil" in the context of the present invention, we mean an oil selected from among saturated hydrocarbons, that is to say from compounds that are liquid at room temperature (25 °C) comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms and comprising only single bonds.

[0031] Preferably, the liquid nonpolar hydrocarbon oil is chosen from branched alkanes comprising between 10 and 60 carbon atoms, preferably between 15 and 31 carbon atoms.

[0032] Preferably, the liquid nonpolar hydrocarbon oil is chosen from branched alkanes having a molar mass less than or equal to 1000 g / mol.

[0033] Typically, the liquid nonpolar hydrocarbon oil is chosen from among the biodegradable branched alkanes.

[0034] Preferably, according to the invention, the liquid nonpolar hydrocarbon oil is chosen from among branched alkanes comprising between 10 and 30 carbon atoms.

[0035] More particularly, according to the invention, the liquid nonpolar hydrocarbon oil can be selected from branched alkanes of vegetable or synthetic origin, preferably from squalane, hemisqualane and mixtures thereof. The liquid nonpolar hydrocarbon oil can also be selected from Cl3-15 alkanes such as the product EMOSMART™ L15, C15-19 alkanes such as the products EMOSMART™ L19, EMOGREEN™ L15 or EMOGREEN™ L19, C18-21 alkanes such as the product EMOSMART™ V21 and C21-28 alkanes such as the product EMOSMART™ C28.

[0036] Squalane (C30H62, chemical name 2,6,10,15,19,23-hexamethyltetracosane) is a saturated hydrocarbon composed of a chain of 30 saturated carbon atoms with the following formula:

[0037] [Chem.l] H3C h3c h3c

[0038] It is obtained by hydrogenation of squalene (C3OH5O). Squalane, due to its saturated chemical structure, is much more stable than squalene, which peroxidizes very easily.

[0039] The squalane used in the invention is preferably of vegetable origin. Preferably, the squalane comes from vegetable oils, preferably derived from cane sugar or olive oil, wheat germ oil, bran oil, rice oil.

[0040] Preferably, in the present invention, squalane is obtained by green chemistry processes, from cane sugar.

[0041] For example, the product marketed under the name Neossance® Squalane by Amyris will be used.

[0042] Hemisqualane (Ci5H32, chemical name 2,6,10-trimethyldodecane) is a saturated hydrocarbon composed of a chain of 15 saturated carbon atoms with the following formula:

[0043] [Chem.2]

[0044] The hemisqualane used in the invention is, for example, the product marketed under the name Neossance Hemisqualane CN by Amyris.

[0045] Preferably, the non-polar oil(s) (b) is / are present in a content of between 20% and 96% by weight, preferably between 30% and 90% by weight, preferably between 35% and 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0046] Preferably, when a polar oil is present, the weight ratio between the non-polar oil(s) b) and the sum of the non-polar and polar oils (b+c) is greater than or equal to 0.5. Polar oils

[0047] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one polar oil (c) liquid at room temperature comprising at least one ester, ether, or alcohol functional group. When the composition comprises at least one polar oil (c), then the weight content of the nonpolar oil (b) is greater than or equal to the weight content of the polar oil (c).

[0048] For the purposes of this invention, "polar oil" means liquid compounds at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa), comprising, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, at least one oxygen or nitrogen atom, and preferably at least one oxygen atom.

[0049] Examples of polar oils that can be used in the composition of the invention include:

[0050] - liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising 4 to 22 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, or sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, sunflower, castor, avocado oils, shea butter oil;

[0051] - synthetic esters, particularly of fatty acids, such as oils of formula R1COOR2 in which RI represents the remainder of a fatty acid comprising 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, containing 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as Purcellin oil, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; vegetable oils composed of esters, notably jojoba oil; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate or dipentaerythrityl pentaisononanoate;

[0052] - ethers, such as those of formula R1OR2 in which RI and R2 represent alkyl chains with lengths of 3 to 22 carbon atoms, such as ethers like dicaprylyl ether (or di-n-octyl ether) marketed by Cognis under the name Cetiol OE, or by Ecogreen under the name Rofetan OE; or

[0053] - their mixtures.

[0054] Preferably, the polar oil c) is selected from caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl ether and mixtures thereof.

[0055] According to the invention, the weight content of non-polar oil b) is greater than or equal to the weight content of polar oil c).

[0056] Preferably, the polar oil(s) c) is / are present in a content of between 5% and 50% by weight, preferably between 10% and 45% by weight, preferably between 20% and 43% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0057] The composition according to the invention is preferably introduced into an emulsion. The emulsion can be direct (oil-in-water) or reverse (water-in-oil).

[0058] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is not solid, i.e., is not in stick form. Preferably, it has a complex modulus G* at 32°C, measured according to the protocol of the examples, of between 200 and 2 x 10⁵ Pa, preferably between 300 and 2 x 10⁵ Pa. Preferably, it has a phase angle delta at 32°C, measured according to the protocol of the examples, of at least 15°, preferably between 15° and 30°.

[0059] The composition according to the invention may also include any additive commonly used in cosmetics, such as fillers, preservatives, UV filters, coloring materials, and / or active ingredients.

[0060] As UV filters, we can mention organic or mineral UV filters, which are well known to those skilled in the art.

[0061] As coloring matter, one can cite coloring matters chosen from among water-soluble dyes, powdered coloring matters such as pigments, mother-of-pearl, and glitter well known to those skilled in the art.

[0062] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is substantially free of synthetic wax, such as ceresin. By "substantially free", we mean that the composition comprises less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of synthetic wax, such as ceresin. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is completely free of synthetic wax, such as ceresin.

[0063] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is substantially free of silicone. By "substantially free" is meant that the composition comprises less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of silicone. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is completely free of silicone. By "silicone" is meant any silicone compound, i.e., comprising one SiO₂ unit.

[0064] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is substantially free of mineral oil, in particular paraffin oil. By "substantially free" is meant that the composition comprises less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of mineral oil, in particular paraffin oil. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is completely free of mineral oil, in particular paraffin oil.

[0065] Finally, the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care of keratinous materials, preferably the skin, comprising the application to said keratinous materials of a composition according to the invention.

[0066] It also relates to the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention to moisturize the skin.

[0067] Concrete, but by no means limiting, examples illustrating the invention will now be given.

[0068] In the examples, the temperature is ambient temperature (25°C) and expressed in degrees Celsius unless otherwise indicated, and the pressure is atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa), unless otherwise indicated.

[0069] In the examples, the quantities of the ingredients of the compositions are given as % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (%w / w). EXAMPLES

[0070] The following ingredients are used in the examples:

[0071] [Tables 1] Commercial Reference Ingredient White Protopet 1S Petrolatum (Sonneborn) Petrolatum Paracera HW (Paramelt) Microcrystalline Wax White Microcrystalline Wax SP-18 (Strahl & Pitsch) Microwax HW (Paramelt) Performalene 500-L Polyethylene (Nucera Solutions) Neossance Polyethylene Wax Squalane (Amyris) Neossance Vegetable Squalane Hemisqualane CN (Amyris) DUB Hemisqualane MCT 7030 / MB (Stéarinerie Dubois) Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides DW Jojoba Golden (Desert Whale) Jojoba Oil Eutanol G (BASF) Octyldodecanol Example 1#: Preparing compositions

[0072] Preparation Protocol

[0073] All the compositions in the examples are prepared with the ingredients mentioned in the table above, according to the following protocol:

[0074] The ingredients of the composition according to the invention (CX) or of the comparative composition (CCX) are introduced into a 250 ml double-jacketed stainless steel beaker with oil circulation. The total mass of the mixture introduced into the beaker is 100 g.

[0075] The mixture is mixed by a Rayneri mixer with a deflocculating rod, under heating. The heating temperature is controlled by an oil bath.

[0076] A heating plate is also used to heat the bottom of the beaker.

[0077] The mixing conditions are:

[0078] The agitation speed of the deflocculating rod: 200 rpm;

[0079] The temperature of the heating plate: 180 °C; and

[0080] The temperature of the oil bath: 110 °C.

[0081] Once the mixture is melted and homogenized, it is poured hot into a 200 ml glass jar, followed by cooling to room temperature without stirring.

[0082] Example 2: Evaluation of the effect of the nature of the wax

[0083] In order to evaluate the effect of the nature of the wax on the composition, the compositions Cl, C2, C3 according to the invention and comparative CCI, were prepared following the protocol of Example 1.

[0084] Compositions Cl, C2 and C3 according to the invention each contain 20% by weight of microcrystalline wax, while the comparative composition CCI contains 20% by weight of polyethylene wax.

[0085] The appearance of the compositions and their rheological characteristics are evaluated after their preparation.

[0086] Protocol for evaluating the texture of compositions:

[0087] The textures of the compositions of the invention and of the comparative compositions are evaluated using rheological measurements in oscillation.

[0088] The rheometer used is the TA Instrument DHR2 model equipped with a planar cone measuring geometry of diameter 40 mm and angle 2°, the geometry is made of stainless steel and the surface is sandblasted.

[0089] The measurement protocol is as follows:

[0090] Step 1: Conditioning the sample between the cone and the plane for 1 minute at 32°C;

[0091] Step 2: Scanning under stress from 0.01 Pa to 2000 Pa in oscillation at a frequency of 1 Hz and at a temperature of 32°C (acquisition of measurements, 5 measurements per decade).

[0092] The results are as follows:

[0093] [Tables2] Ingredients (% w / w) Cl (invention) C2 (invention) C3 (invention) CCI (comparative) Paracera HW (Paramelt) 20 - - - White Microcrystalline wax S P-18 (Strahl & Pitsch) - 20 - - Microwax HW (Paramelt) - - 20 - Performalene 500-L Polyethylene (Nucera solutions) - - - 20 Neossance Squalane (Amyris) 80 80 80 80 Product Appearance Translucent gel Translucent gel Translucent gel White solid paste G* (Pa) at 32 °C l.03xl04 l.05xl04 l.57xl04 5.50xl06 ô (°) at 32 °C 25.4 33.5 21.5 12

[0094] It has been observed that: - The comparative CCI composition with polyethylene wax has the appearance of a white solid paste, with a G* modulus approximately 500 times greater than the compositions according to the invention and a phase angle delta of less than 15°, leading to an excessively thick texture; and - The Cl, C2 and C3 compositions according to the invention make it possible to obtain translucent gels with controlled rheological characteristics, which ensure a texture suitable for the application. Example 3: Evaluation of the effect of oil

[0095] The compositions Cl, C4 and C5 according to the invention and the comparative compositions CC2, CC3 and CC4, were prepared according to the protocol described in Example 1.

[0096] The compositions Cl, C4 and C5 according to the invention comprise a branched alkane oil, and the content of branched alkane oil is greater than or equal to that of polar oil.

[0097] The comparative compositions CC2, CC3 and CC4 do not include branched alkane oil, but include a polar oil.

[0098] The appearance of the compositions, their rheological characteristics, and their occlusivity performance are evaluated after their preparation. In vitro occlusivity evaluation protocol#:

[0099] Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurements are defined as the flow of water vapor across the skin surface. They characterize the barrier function of the 5th tratum comeum and allow for the evaluation of the influence of physical and chemical factors on barrier integrity. Occlusive treatments reduce TEWL and consequently maintain or even increase skin hydration.

[0100] PIE measurements are carried out on stratum comeumisolé placed above a water reservoir, under controlled temperature and humidity conditions (glove box T=30°C and RH=30%).

[0101] The surface of the stratum corneum is cleaned with isooctane and placed in the sample holder. The system is placed in the glove box for 10⁻¹⁰ to allow it to equilibrate. A first PIE measurement is taken (t₀). The stratum corneum is then treated with 10⁻¹ of the product. A second PIE measurement is taken 10⁻¹⁰ after the sample has again reached equilibrium.

[0102] The measurements are repeated 6 times on 2 different batches of stratum corneum and are expressed as a % variation in PIE:

[0103] [Math.l] . .nrrx / rrrx PlE(tï0h) A (PIE) (%) — x 100

[0104] The median value is chosen to compare the data with each other.

[0105] To evaluate the occlusive performance of the prepared compositions, a Vaseline composition (petrolatum, White Protopet 1S Petrolatum (Sonneborn), 100% by weight) is chosen as a reference composition, which exhibits a variation in PIE at 75% according to the measurements.

[0106] The results are as follows:

[0107] [Tables3] Ingredients (% w / w) Cl (invention) C4 (invention) C5 (invention) CC2 (comparative) CC3 (comparative) CC4 (comparative) Paracera HW (Paramelt) 20 20 20 20 20 20 Neossance Sq ualane (Amyr is) 80 - 40 - - - Neossance He misqualane CN (Amyris) - 80 - - - - DUB MCT 7 030 / MB (Sté arinerie Dubo is) - - 40 80 - - DW Jojoba G olden (Desert Whale) - - - - 80 - Eutanol G (B ASF) - - - - - 80 Product appearance Transiucidal gel Transiucidal gel Transiucidal gel White paste White paste White paste G* (Pa) at 32° C l.03xl04 5.7xl03 2.4xl04 6xl05 4.9xl05 7.5xl04 ô (°) at 32 °C 25.4 18 21 15 15 15 PIE in vitro -65% -80% -5%

[0108] The results obtained here indicate that: In the absence of a branched alkane oil, the comparative CC2, CC3 and CC4 compositions form white pastes. Their textures are too thick and / or rigid, demonstrated by their rheological properties: very high G* and low δ; The Cl, C4 and C5 compositions according to the invention, comprising at least one branched alkane oil whose content is greater than or equal to that of the polar oil, make it possible to obtain translucent gels with a good texture; The comparative CC2 composition exhibits an in vitro PIE value of 5%, which is much lower compared to that of the reference composition (petroleum jelly); and - only the compositions according to the invention (in particular Cl and C4) exhibit good barrier function performance, with an in vitro PIE value comparable to that of the reference composition (petroleum jelly).

[0109] Example 4: Evaluation of the effect of microcrystalline wax concentration

[0110] The Cl and C6 to C8 compositions according to the invention and the comparative CC5 to CC7 compositions were prepared according to the protocol described in Example 1.

[0111] The compositions Cl and C6 to C8 according to the invention have a weight ratio of microcrystalline waxes (or CMC) / (microcrystalline waxes + oils) between 0.05 and 0.3.

[0112] The comparative CC5 to CC7 compositions have a weight ratio of microcrystalline waxes / (microcrystalline waxes + oils) of less than 0.05 or greater than 0.3.

[0113] The results are as follows:

[0114] [Tables4] Ingredients Cl (invention) C6 (invention) (invention) CB (invention) (comparative) CCS (comparative) CC7 (comparative) (Parame[t] 20 5 Î0 30 0 3 50 Neossandé 80 95 90 70 wo 97 50 Ratio 0.2 0.05 OJ 07 0 003 0.5 Product Appearance Translucent gel Soft translucent gel Translucent gel Translucent gel Transparent liquid Supernatant liquid phase Sticky white hard gel G* (Pa) at 32 °C 1.03x10< 350 3840 175x10* 14 *32 3.4x10- Sn at 32 °C 25.4 28.4 24 24.4 88 30.8 22.5 PtE in vitro -65%

[0115] In summary, the results show that: - if the weight ratio of microcrystalline waxes / (microcrystalline waxes + oils) is less than 0.05, as is the case in comparative compositions CC5 and CC6, the resulting products have a texture that is too liquid and unstable; - if the weight ratio of microcrystalline waxes / (microcrystalline waxes + oils) is greater than 0.3, as is the case in the comparative composition CC7, the product takes the form of a hard, white, and sticky gel. The texture is too thick and difficult to spread; - only the compositions according to the invention, which have a weight ratio of microcrystalline waxes / (microcrystalline waxes + oils) ranging from 0.05 to 0.3, make it possible to obtain products in the form of translucent gels with good textures for application; and - the Cl composition according to the invention presents better occlusive performance compared to the comparative CC5 composition which does not include microcrystalline wax.

Claims

Demands

1. Cosmetic composition comprising: a. at least one wax consisting of a mixture of long-chain saturated alkanes and comprising at least one long-chain branched saturated alkane; b. at least one non-polar oil selected from branched alkanes that are liquid at room temperature; and c. optionally, at least one polar oil that is liquid at room temperature comprising at least one ester, ether, or alcohol function, the weight content of non-polar oil b) being greater than or equal to the weight content of polar oil c); wherein the ratio between the amount of wax a) and the total amount of wax a) and non-polar oil b) and optionally polar oil c) is between 0.05 and 0.

3.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the wax a) has a melting point greater than 45 °C and less than or equal to 120 °C, in particular less than or equal to 90 °C; the wax a) is made up of a mixture of linear alkanes and branched alkanes, said linear and branched alkanes having a number of carbons from 20 to 70.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the wax a) is present in an amount from 4% to 45% by weight, preferably from 5% to 30% by weight, or even more preferably from 10% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the weight content of wax a) is strictly less than the weight content of non-polar oil b).

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the ratio between the quantity of wax a) and the total quantity of wax a) and non-polar oils b) and possibly polar oils c) is between 0.1 and 0.

25.

6. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the nonpolar oil (b) is selected from branched alkanes comprising between 10 and 60 carbon atoms, preferably between 15 and 31 carbon atony; preferably nonpolar oil b) is chosen from squalane, hemisqualane and mixtures thereof.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the nonpolar oil b) is present in a content of between 20% and 96% by weight, preferably between 30% and 90% by weight, preferably between 35% and 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polar oil c) is selected from: - liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising 4 to 22 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or caprylic / capric acids, or sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, sunflower, castor, avocado oils, shea butter oil;- synthetic esters, particularly of fatty acids, such as oils with the formula R1COOR2 in which RI represents the remainder of a fatty acid containing 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, containing 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as Purcellin oil, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; vegetable oils composed of esters, particularly jojoba oil; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate;and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate or dipentaerythrityl pentaisononanoate; - ethers, such as those of formula R1OR2 in which RI and R2 represent alkyl chains of length having from 3 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably dicaprylyl ether; and - mixtures thereof.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polar oil (c) is selected from the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl ether and mixtures thereof.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polar oil (c) is in a content of between 5% and 50% by weight, preferably between 10% and 45% by weight, preferably between 20% and 43% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the weight ratio between the non-polar oils (b) and the sum of the non-polar and polar oils (b+c) is greater than or equal to 0.

5.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, which is substantially free from synthetic wax such as ceresin, preferably totally free from synthetic wax such as ceresin; and / or is substantially free from silicone, preferably totally free from silicone; and / or is substantially free from mineral oil, in particular paraffin oil, preferably totally free from mineral oil, in particular paraffin oil.

13. Cosmetic process for makeup and / or skin care and / or skin appendages and / or keratin fibers, comprising the application of a composition according to one of the preceding claims on the skin and / or skin appendages and / or keratin fibers.

14. Cosmetic use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12 for moisturizing the skin.