COMPOSITION FOR HAIR AND / OR SCALP CARE

Abstract

HAIR AND / OR SCALP CARE COMPOSITION The present invention relates to a hair and / or scalp care composition comprising: a) at least one extract of Tephrosia purpurea seed; b) niacinamide and / or its derivatives; and c) xanthine and / or its derivatives, wherein the weight ratio of Tephrosia purpurea seed extract to xanthine and / or its derivatives is equal to or less than 4. The present invention also relates to a hair and / or scalp care process comprising applying the composition according to the present invention to the hair and / or scalp. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: COMPOSITION FOR HAIR AND / OR SCALP CARE technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a composition for the care of hair and / or scalp. The present invention also relates to a process for the care of hair and / or scalp. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] Some hair types are naturally sparse and / or fine. In addition, all hair types can lose quality and / or quantity over time due to age and / or factors such as natural oiliness, perspiration, skin cells shedding from the scalp, pollution and dirt.

[0003] Cortisol, an emotional hormone induced by stress, is one of the underlying causes of hair loss.

[0004] A systemic and local increase in cortisol, followed by follicular inflammation and follicular damage, can ultimately lead to hair loss.

[0005] We therefore wish to have an effective solution for inhibiting cortisol. Summary of the invention

[0006] An object of the present invention is therefore to develop skincare compositions of keratinous materials, which can lead to a better effect on the inhibition of cortisol.

[0007] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention proposes a hair and / or scalp care composition, comprising: a. at least one extract of tephrosia purpurea seed; b. niacinamide and / or its derivatives; and c. of xanthine and / or its derivatives;

[0008] wherein the weight ratio between the tephrosia purpurea seed extract and xanthine and / or its derivatives is equal to or less than 4.

[0009] According to a second aspect, the present invention proposes a cosmetic process for the care of hair and / or scalp comprising the application of the composition according to the present invention to the hair and / or scalp.

[0010] The inventors have discovered that the composition according to the present invention can effectively inhibit the cortisol level.

[0011] The inventors have also discovered that niacinamide and / or its derivatives in combination with xanthine and / or its derivatives can effectively promote the ability of a tephrosia purpurea seed extract to inhibit cortisol levels in a subject.

[0012] According to a third aspect, the present invention proposes the use of a combination of niacinamide and / or its derivatives and xanthine and / or its derivatives to promote the ability of a tephrosia purpurea seed extract to inhibit cortisol levels in a subject.

[0013] Other subjects and features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become even clearer upon reading the detailed description and examples that follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0014] As used herein, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between... and..." and "from... to...".

[0015] As used herein, the term "including" should be interpreted as encompassing all the features specifically mentioned as well as those optional, additional, unspecified.

[0016] As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the features specifically mentioned are present (i.e., * consisting of").

[0017] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as that commonly accepted by a person skilled in the art of the present invention. Where the definition of a term in this description conflicts with the meaning commonly accepted by a person skilled in the art of the present invention, the definition described herein shall prevail.

[0018] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values ​​expressing a quantity of ingredients and other substances used in the description and claims shall be understood as modified by the term "approximately". Consequently, unless otherwise indicated, the numerical values ​​and parameters described herein are approximate values ​​that may be modified according to the desired performance obtained, as required.

[0019] As used herein, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0020] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises: a. at least one extract of tephrosia purpurea seed; b. niacinamide and / or its derivatives; and c. of xanthine and / or its derivatives;

[0021] wherein the weight ratio between the tephrosia purpurea seed extract and xanthine and / or its derivatives is equal to or less than 4. Tephrosia purpurea seed extract

[0022] The composition of the present invention comprises at least one extract of tephrosia purpurea seed.

[0023] Tephrosia purpurea seed extract belongs to the wild indigo extracts. A specific extraction of the seeds of this plant was carried out to obtain a condensate enriched in specific sugars, including stachyose and ciceritol. This proprietary extract has demonstrated its unique biological capabilities to break down cortisol production by skin cells, activate the release of a natural calming neuropeptide that acts on mood, and visibly improve complexion within two weeks.

[0024] The material is commercially available from Givaudan SA under the brand name Neurophroline®.

[0025] Advantageously, the extract of tephrosia purpurea is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.0001% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.0005% by weight to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.001% by weight to 3% by weight, most preferably from 0.001% by weight to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Niacinamide and / or its derivatives

[0026] The composition of the present invention comprises niacinamide and / or its derivatives.

[0027] Niacinamide, also known as vitamin B3, is a compound of formula (I) next:

[0028] Niacinamide derivatives that may be cited include, for example, nicotinic acid, nicotinyl alcohol, nicotinuric acid, nicotinyl hydroxamic acid, nicotinic acid esters such as tocopherol nicotinate, amides derived from niacinamide by substitution of the hydrogen of -CONH2, products from a reaction with carboxylic acids and amino acids, esters of nicotinyl alcohol and carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, salicylic acid, glycolic acid or palmitic acid.

[0029] The following niacinamide derivatives can also be mentioned: 2-chloronicotinamide, 6-methylnicotinamide, 6-aminonicotinamide, N-methylnicotinamide, N,N-dimethylnicotinamide, N-(hydroxymethyl)nicotinamide, quinoline acid imide, nicotinanilide, N-benzylnicotinamide, N-ethylnicotinamide, nifenazone, nicotinaldehyde, isonicotinic acid, methylisonicotinic acid, thionicotinamide, nialamide, 2-mercaptonicotinic acid, nicomol and niaprazine, methyl nicotinate and sodium nicotinate.

[0030] Advantageously, niacinamide and / or its derivatives are present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.002% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.005% to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.005% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Xanthine and / or its derivatives

[0031] The composition of the present invention comprises xanthine and / or its derivatives.

[0032] Xanthine and / or its derivatives refer to one or more compounds corresponding to formula (II) below,

[0033] wherein Rb R2 and R3 are independently of each other H, alkyl in C6 substituted or unsubstituted, or alkenyl in C6 substituted or unsubstituted, wherein the alkyl or alkenyl may be substituted by one or more substituents selected from hydroxyl, carboxyl, carbonyl, amino (said amino may be substituted by 1 or 2 alkyl in C6) or halogen.

[0034] Xanthine and / or its derivatives that may be mentioned include, for example, xanthine, caffeine, theobromine, theophylline, paraxanthine, diprophylline, uric acid, dyphylline and IBMX (3-isobutyl-l-methylxanthine).

[0035] The following xanthine derivatives can also be mentioned: acefylline, xanthinol nicotinate, diniprophylline, etamiphylline, etophylline, proxyphylline, pentophylline, propentophylline, pyridophylline and bamiphylline.

[0036] Preferably, xanthine and / or its derivatives are selected from xanthine, caffeine, theobromine, theophylline, paraxanthine, diprophylline, uric acid, dyphylline, IBMX (3-isobutyl-l-methylxanthine), xanthinol nicotinate, acefylline, diniprophylline, etamiphylline, etophylline, proxyphylline, the pentophyllin, propentophyllin, pyridophyllin, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably caffeine.

[0037] Preferably, the xanthine and / or its derivatives used according to the present invention is caffeine, which can be commercially available from the supplier BASF under the trade name CAFFEINE.

[0038] Advantageously, xanthine and / or its derivatives are present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.001% by weight to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.002% by weight to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.005% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0039] Preferably, the weight ratio between the tephrosia purpurea seed extract and xanthine and / or its derivatives is 4:1 to 0.001:1, preferably 3:1 to 0.001:1, more preferably 2.5:1 to 0.01:1.

[0040] Preferably, the weight ratio between niacinamide and / or its derivatives and xanthine and / or its derivatives is from 0.2:1 to 20:1, preferably from 0.5:1 to 10:1. Water

[0041] The composition of the present invention may further include water.

[0042] Advantageously, water is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 50% by weight to 99.99% by weight, preferably from 60% by weight to 99.99% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. cosmetic active ingredients

[0043] Optionally, the composition of the present invention includes one or more additional active ingredients to revitalize hair and / or take care of hair and / or scalp.

[0044] A person skilled in the art can select the quantity of additional active ingredients according to the desired objective. Adjuvants

[0045] The composition according to the present invention may also include additional adjuvants, such as perfumes, preservatives, etc.

[0046] A person skilled in the art can choose the quantity of additional adjuvants so as not to have a negative impact on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.

[0047] According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a hair and / or scalp care composition comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a. from 0.001% by weight to 1% by weight of at least one extract of tephrosia purpurea seed; b. from 0.005% by weight to 8% by weight of niacinamide, and c. from 0.005% by weight to 5% by weight of caffeine;

[0048] in which the weight ratio between the tephrosia purpurea seed extract and caffeine is from 2.5:1 to 0.01:1. Preparation and use

[0049] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing ingredients a), b) and c), as essential ingredients, together with one or more additional ingredients, as explained above.

[0050] The method and means for mixing the essential and optional ingredients above are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the essential and optional ingredients above in order to prepare the composition according to the present invention.

[0051] The composition of the present invention may be a rinse-off or no-rinse product.

[0052] The composition of the present invention can be used on hair and scalp hair both wet and dry.

[0053] According to the second aspect, the present invention proposes a cosmetic process for the care of hair and / or scalp comprising the application of the composition according to the present invention to the hair and / or scalp.

[0054] According to the third aspect, the present invention proposes the use of a combination of niacinamide and / or its derivatives and xanthine and / or its derivatives to promote the ability of a tephrosia purpurea seed extract to inhibit cortisol levels in a subject.

[0055] The subject can be an animal or a human being.

[0056] Niacinamide and / or its derivatives and xanthine and / or its derivatives are as defined above with regard to the composition according to the present invention.

[0057] Preferably, the weight ratio between the tephrosia purpurea seed extract and xanthine and / or its derivatives is 4:1 to 0.001:1, preferably 3:1 to 0.001:1, more preferably 2.5:1 to 0.01:1.

[0058] Preferably, the weight ratio between niacinamide and / or its derivatives and xanthine and / or its derivatives is 0.2:1 to 20:1, preferably 0.5:1 to 10:1. EXAMPLES

[0059] The following examples are given by way of non-limiting illustrations of the present invention.

[0060] The main raw materials used, their trade names and suppliers are listed in Table 1.

[0061] [Tables 1] INCI Name Trade Name Supplier Niacinamide NIACINAMIDE PC DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCT CTS Tephrosia purpurea see d extract (Tephrosia purpur ea seed extract) NEUROPHROLINE GIVAUDAN Caffeine (Caffeine) CAFFEINE BASF

[0062] Inventive Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-3

[0063] The compositions of Inventive Examples (IE) 1-3 and Comparative Examples (CE) 1-4 were prepared with the ingredients listed in Table 2 (the contents are expressed as percentages by weight of ingredients relative to the total weight of each composition, unless otherwise indicated):

[0064] [Tables2] Components El. 1 El. 2 EI.3 EC.1 EC. 2 EC. 3 EC. 4 Tephrosia purpurea seed extract 0.005 0.005 0.02 0.005 - 0.005 0.005 Niacinamide 0.01 0.06 0.01 0.06 0.01 - 0.01 Caffeine 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.001 0.01 0.01 - Water QSP10 0 QSP100 QSP100 QSP100 QSP100 QSP100

[0065] The compositions of inventive examples 1 to 3 are compositions according to the present invention.

[0066] The composition of comparative example 1 does not have the weight ratio between the tephrosia purpurea seed extract and xanthine and / or its derivatives equal to or less than 4.

[0067] The composition of comparative example 2 does not include Tephrosia purpurea seed extract.

[0068] The composition of comparative example 3 does not include niacinamide and / or its derivatives.

[0069] The composition of comparative example 4 does not include xanthine and / or its derivatives.

[0070] Preparation procedure:

[0071] The above compositions were prepared by adding niacinamide (where applicable) and caffeine (where applicable) to water at room temperature (25°C) with stirring to obtain a homogeneous system, and then adding tephrosia purpurea seed extract (where applicable) to the system with stirring. Assessment#:

[0072] The cortisol inhibition effect obtained by each composition prepared above was determined as follows.

[0073] 1) Use of the cell culture medium: (Dulbecco's Modified Eagle's Medium containing 10% of fetal bovine serum (Gibco) as a blank control, and preparation of test samples with a cell culture medium replacing water in the compositions of inventive examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-4, respectively.

[0074] 2) application of 0.5 mL of the test samples or blank control onto primary keratinocytes derived from human scalp (#2440 from Sciencell) in a 24-well cell culture plate, respectively;

[0075] 3) addition of 10 pM cortisone as a substrate for cortisol production in the 24-well cell culture plate.

[0076] 4) incubation for 24 hours, harvesting and quantification of the culture medium cellular for cortisol levels using a commercial ELISA assay kit (ab 108665 from Abcam).

[0077] 5) quantification of the blank reference cortisol level using a medium of Cell culture without the addition of cortisone.

[0078] The cortisol-inhibiting effect of the test samples on cortisol production was quantified as follows:

[0079] % inhibition = (cortisol level in blank cell culture medium - rate of cortisol in the test samples) / (cortisol level in blank cell culture medium - reference cortisol level at blank)

[0080] The cortisol-inhibiting effect of each test sample was recorded as the cortisol-inhibiting effect of each composition comprising the same concentrations of Tephrosia purpurea seed extract, niacinamide and caffeine in inventive examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-4.

[0081] The cortisol inhibition effect obtained by the compositions of inventive examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-4 has been summarized in Table 3.

[0082] [Tables3] El. 1 El. 2 EI.3 EC.l EC. 2 EC. 3 EC. 4 Inhibition (%) 21 33 52 12 14 15 8

[0083] It can be seen in Table 3 that each composition of the inventive examples comprising tephrosia purpurea seed extract, niacinamide and caffeine with a tephrosia purpurea extract to caffeine ratio of less than 4 can effectively inhibit cortisol levels, so that it can be used to prevent or reduce hair loss.

Claims

Demands

1. Hair and / or scalp care composition comprising: a) at least one tephrosia purpurea seed extract; b) niacinamide and / or its derivatives; and c) xanthine and / or its derivatives; wherein the weight ratio of tephrosia purpurea seed extract to xanthine and / or its derivatives is equal to or less than 4.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the niacinamide and / or derivative is selected from 2-chloronicotinamide, 6-methylnicotinamide, 6-aminonicotinamide, N-methylnicotinamide, N,N-dimethylnicotinamide, N-(hydroxymethyl)nicotinamide, quinoline acid timothy, nicotinanilide, N-benzylnicotinamide, N-ethylnicotinamide, nifenazone, nicotinaldehyde, isonicotinic acid, methylisonicotinic acid, thionicotinamide, nialamide, 2-mercaptonicotinic acid, nicomol, niaprazine, methyl nicotinate, sodium nicotinate, and a mixture thereof.

3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein xanthine and / or its derivatives are selected from xanthine, caffeine, theobromine, theophylline, paraxanthine, diprophylline, uric acid, dyphylline, IBMX (3-isobutyl-1-methylxanthine), xanthinol nicotinate, acefylline, diniprophylline, tetamiphylline, etophylline, proxyphylline, pentophyllin, propentophyllin, pyridophyllin, bamyphylline and mixtures thereof, and preferably caffeine.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the weight ratio of tephrosia purpurea seed extract to xanthine and / or its derivatives is from 4:1 to 0.001:1, preferably from 3:1 to 0.001:1, more preferably from 2.5:1 to 0.01:

1.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the weight ratio of niacinamide and / or its derivatives to xanthine and / or its derivatives is from 0.2:1 to 20:1, preferably from 0.5:1 to 10:

1.

6. Composition according to claim 1, comprising, in relation to the total weight of the composition: a) from 0.001% by weight to 1% by weight of at least one extract of tephrosia purpurea seed; b) from 0.005% by weight to 8% by weight of niacinamide; and c) from 0.005% by weight to 5% by weight of caffeine; in which the weight ratio between tephrosia purpurea seed extract and caffeine is from 2.5:1 to 0.01:1.