Glossy, non-transferable, anhydrous liquid composition

Abstract

The present invention relates to an anhydrous liquid cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: - at least one alkylcellulose, preferably an ethylcellulose, - at least one lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, and - at least one volatile oil, and optionally in addition at least one coloring matter.

Description

Title of the invention: Glossy, non-transferable liquid anhydrous composition. FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetics. It relates in particular to glossy, non-transferable, liquid anhydrous compositions for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, especially skin or lips. PRIOR TECHNOLOGY

[0002] Prior art is known to exist for skincare and / or makeup compositions containing keratin-based materials with shine and staying power, but which tend to leave a colored residue on any surface (skin, clothing, etc.) with which they come into contact (these products are said to transfer). In the world of lipsticks in particular, there is a recurring demand from consumers for a very glossy lip product with very long-lasting wear, or even one that does not transfer or transfers very little upon contact with a surface (a property known as "non-transfer"), and especially fluid to liquid lip products.

[0003] But to the Applicant's knowledge, there are currently no such products on the market that offer very long wear with non-transfer properties and easy makeup removal.

[0004] Liquid products such as lip glosses do indeed have the characteristic of providing a very shiny or "vinyl" film on the lips, but they have the disadvantage of providing a film with little coverage and low color intensity, often with limited staying power, significant migration into fine lines, and significant transfer. Solid products, particularly in stick form, have the advantage of providing intense color with longer-lasting wear and / or non-transfer properties, but are not as shiny as a gloss; sticks described as long-lasting but not "non-transfer" generally have a satin finish (not a glossy one), and "non-transfer" sticks are matte and less comfortable, even drying.

[0005] Some products claim to maintain shine over time and long-lasting wear, but they generally have a sticky appearance, possibly tightness, transfer under pressure and / or friction and sometimes are difficult to remove.

[0006] Other options exist for achieving a glossy, transfer-proof finish, but these generally come in the form of products applied in two steps (so-called 'double-step' products): a first, long-lasting, non-transfer, but non-glossy colored layer in contact with the lips, and a second, ultra-glossy transparent layer applied on the first ('top coat') which provides shine and is non-sticky, and which can transfer without leaving any trace or colored residue.

[0007] Similarly for the eyes, there are no non-transfer and non-sticky glitter eyeshadows, nor non-transfer glitter liners or mascaras.

[0008] We are therefore looking for new skincare and / or makeup compositions for keratinous materials (including skin, lips, and eyelashes), in a single step, exhibiting very good shine and / or long-lasting properties, which do not migrate into wrinkles and fine lines, and / or improved "non-transfer" properties. Advantageously, we are looking for liquid anhydrous skincare and / or makeup compositions exhibiting very good shine and improved non-transfer properties.

[0009] These properties can be evaluated by any method known in the art for evaluating such properties. Furthermore, these characteristics can be evaluated in relation to other compositions, such as commercially available compositions.

[0010] The Applicant has identified a specific combination of ingredients consisting of at least one alkylcellulose-type polymer and a lipophilic polyamide-type polymer, in an anhydrous liquid composition comprising at least one volatile oil and optionally in addition one or more silicone-based non-volatile oils, preferably phenylated, enabling the production of a glossy to very glossy film ('vinyl') exhibiting very long-lasting and non-transfer properties.

[0011] The composition of the invention has excellent gloss properties and an unprecedented non-transfer result for this type of gloss composition, even with high levels of non-volatile oils. Description of the invention

[0012] The present invention therefore relates to an anhydrous liquid cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: - at least one alkylcellulose, preferably an ethylcellulose, - at least one lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, and - at least one volatile oil, and - possibly in addition at least one coloring agent.

[0013] It also relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin and / or lips, comprising the application on said keratinous materials of a composition according to the invention.

[0014] By "cosmetic composition" we mean any composition with a cosmetic purpose, that is to say aesthetic, which may be brought into contact with the superficial parts of the human body and more particularly with keratinous materials, in particular human skin and / or lips.

[0015] By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant any excipient suitable for topical use, in contact with keratinous materials, without risk of toxicity, incompatibility, instability and / or allergic response.

[0016] The term "keratinous materials" according to the invention refers to skin and / or its appendages, in particular skin, eyelashes, eyebrows, lips, and more specifically human skin and / or lips. The keratinous materials to which the compositions of the invention are applied are healthy keratinous materials, that is to say, materials not exhibiting any disturbances or disorders that would indicate a pathological condition (subjects who are 'unhealthy', suffering from a pathology).

[0017] By "anhydrous," it is understood, in particular, that water is preferably not deliberately added to the compositions but may be present in trace amounts in the various compounds used in the compositions. In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 4% by weight of water, preferably less than 3%, preferably less than 2%, more preferably less than 1%, and even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of said composition, or is even completely free of water.

[0018] By "liquid" composition according to the invention, we mean a liquid to fluid composition which is capable of flowing under its own weight, at 20°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

[0019] The compositions of the invention have good gloss and non-transfer properties. They also have good durability.

[0020] These properties can be evaluated using different methods.

[0021] Brilliance

[0022] The gloss property can, for example, be assessed visually or by measurement with a gloss meter. For a visual assessment, a photograph can be taken of lips made up with the composition of the invention, and the gloss of the deposited film can be visually evaluated. The compositions of the invention will have a glossy to very glossy, or even 'vinyl', film.

[0023] Non-transfer

[0024] According to a first method of evaluation (visual), the non-transfer properties of the compositions of the invention can be evaluated by touching the film with a finger or by kissing the hand or by applying a cloth or a glass slide to the lips (evaluation of non-transfer under pressure), and the presence or absence of color transferred onto the support (hand, finger, cloth...) is observed; compositions with good resistance to pressure are thus sought.

[0025] Film adhesion and sharpness of lip contours

[0026] The film's hold on the lips corresponds to the hold of the makeup on the lips over time, and to the homogeneity and adhesion of the film on the lips, without any phenomenon migration into the fine lines around the lips ensures a clean and precise lip contour. Longevity can be assessed over time by taking photographs, for example with a Visia CR camera to photograph the mouth from the front with eyes closed. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0027] A first object therefore relates to an anhydrous liquid cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: - at least one alkylcellulose, preferably an ethylcellulose, - at least one lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, and - at least one volatile oil, and - possibly in addition at least one coloring agent. Alkylcellulose

[0028] The composition of the invention therefore comprises at least one alkylcellulose.

[0029] Among the alkylcelluloses, methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses, and their mixtures, preferably ethylcelluloses, can be mentioned.

[0030] According to one embodiment, the composition comprises ethylcellulose as alkylcellulose.

[0031] In the rest of the description, we will refer interchangeably to 'ethylcellulose film-forming polymer', 'ethylcellulose polymer' or 'ethylcellulose'.

[0032] The term 'film-forming polymer' means a polymer capable of forming, either alone or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a continuous and adherent film on a substrate, in particular on the skin and / or lips.

[0033] By 'ethylcellulose polymer' according to the invention, we mean a cellulose derivative in which some of the hydroxyl groups on the repeated glucose motifs are converted into ethyl ether groups.

[0034] Ethylcellulose is an ethyl ether of cellulose, comprising a chain made up of [3-anhydroglucose] units linked together by acetal bonds. Each anhydroglucose unit has three hydroxyl groups that can be substituted by ethoxy groups. The number of ethyl ether groups can vary and is characterized by the percentage of ethoxylated substitution. Ethoxylated substitution (also called "ethyl ether content") is generally from 10 to 55%. In a particular embodiment, the ethylcellulose polymers used in a cosmetic composition according to the invention are preferably polymers having a degree of ethoxy substitution ranging from 2.5 to 2.6 per anhydroglucose unit, in other words, comprising an ethoxy content ranging from 44% to 55%.

[0035] Reference may be made in particular to the ethylcellulose polymer described in Dow Chemical's application WO2018057381.

[0036] Examples include ethylcellulose polymers with the INCI name: ETHYLCELLULOSE, marketed under the following names:

[0037] - The ETHOCEL™ references manufactured by the company DUPONT and distributed by the company CHEMPOINT, including, for example, ETHOCEL™ Standard 4, ETHOCEL™ Standard 7, ETHOCEL™ Standard 7 FP Premium, ETHOCEL™ Standard 10, ETHOCEL™ Standard 20, ETHOCEL™ Standard 45, ETHOCEL™ Standard 100, ETHOCEL™ Standard 100 FP Premium, with an ethoxylated substitution content of 48.0 to 49.5%;

[0038] - the AQUALON™ ETHYLCELLULOSE references of type-K, type-N and type-T, preferably type-N such as N7, N100, available from Ashland, Inc; and

[0039] - ANTARON™ ECO references available from Ashland, Inc.

[0040] This alkylcellulose polymer can be used as is, or advantageously pre-solubilized or pre-dispersed in a non-aqueous polar solvent such as those described below, to facilitate its dispersion in the composition. This non-aqueous polar solvent can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0041] According to a first mode, the alkylcellulose polymer is used as is (in powder form).

[0042] For a formulation in an anhydrous composition according to the invention, the alkylcellulose polymer may advantageously be mixed with at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil selected from liquid fatty alcohols, saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched, in C10-C26, and homogenized, before incorporation into the rest of the composition.

[0043] According to another embodiment, the alkylcellulose polymer is pre-solubilized or pre-dispersed in a non-aqueous polar volatile solvent selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils selected from the group consisting of esters possibly hydroxylated, ethers, dialkoxymethane, carbonates, and mixtures thereof, before incorporation into the rest of the composition.

[0044] The alkylcellulose content, in particular ethylcellulose, in the composition of the invention will generally range from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15%, more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight of dry (active) matter relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0045] Preferably, a content greater than or equal to 1% or even greater than or equal to 2% by weight of alkylcellulose, preferably ethylcellulose, will be used in relation to the total weight of the composition.

[0046] According to a particular method, the alkylcellulose content, preferably ethylcellulose, will range from 1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition

[0047] In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises ethylcellulose in a content ranging from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15%, more preferably from 5 to 10% by weight of dry (active) matter relative to the total weight of the composition. lipophilic polymer of the polyamide type

[0048] The composition according to the invention further comprises at least one lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, as a fat-phase gelling polymer.

[0049] Polyamide-type polycondensates can form a three-dimensional network through hydrogen bonding interactions, in which lipophilic oils have an affinity for acidic dimer chains. When applied to the surface of the skin and / or lips, they form a highly structured network resistant to external stresses (friction, contact, etc.) and which quickly reforms after shearing, while remaining comfortable. Their presence in the oil phase thus gives the composition of the invention significantly improved adhesion when applied as a film to the surface of the skin and / or lips.

[0050] For the purposes of this invention, "polycondensate" means a polymer obtained by polycondensation, namely by chemical reaction between monomers having different functional groups, chosen in particular from acid, alcohol and amine functions.

[0051] For the purposes of this invention, "polymer" means a compound having at least 2 repeating motifs, preferably at least 3 repeating motifs and even better 10 repeating motifs.

[0052] In the rest of the description, we speak interchangeably of 'polyamide polymer' or 'polyamide polycondensate' or 'lipophilic polyamide polycondensate' or 'polyamide-type lipophilic polycondensate' or 'polyamide-type lipophilic gelling polymer'.

[0053] The polyamide-type polycondensate usable as fat-phase gelling agents in the composition of the invention is preferably chosen from ester-terminated polyamides, tertiary amide-terminated polyamides, polyalkyleneoxy-terminated polyamides, or ester-terminated poly(ester-amides).

[0054] In the context of the invention, the composition according to the invention advantageously comprises at least one ester-terminated polyamide and / or one ester-terminated poly(ester-amides).

[0055] According to a first preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one ester-terminated polyamide obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a linoleic acid dimer (also called dilinoleic acid), with ethylenediamine, the remaining acidic end groups being esterified by cetyl alcohol (C16), stearyl alcohol (C18), or a mixture thereof. The copolymer thus obtained has the INCI name: ETHYLENEDIAMINE / STEARYL DIMER DILINOLEATE COPOLYMER. It is notably sold by the company ARIZONA CHEMICAL under the trade names UNICLEAR 80 and UNICLEAR 100 VG respectively in the form of a gel with 80% (active matter) in a mineral oil and 100% (active matter).

[0056] These mixtures are also sold by CRODA under the trade name OLEOCRAFT LP-IO-PA-(MV), respectively at 99.7% (active ingredient) with a preservative. They have a softening point of 88°C to 94°C. Their average molecular weight is preferably 6000, and even more preferably 4000.

[0057] According to a second particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid (also called hydrogenated dilinoleic acid) and neopentyl glycol, on ethylene diamine; the remaining acidic terminations being esterified by stearyl alcohol (C18).

[0058] The copolymer thus obtained is a dimeric copolymer ethylenediamine bis-stearyl ethylenediamine / neopentylglycol / stearyl dibenzoate, having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8.

[0059] The copolymer with INCI name POLYAMIDE-8 is, for example, marketed under the name OLEOCRAFT LP-20 by the company CRODA.

[0060] In general, polymers as described below are in the form of polymer mixtures, these mixtures may also contain a synthesis product corresponding to a diester.

[0061] A mixture of lipophilic gelling agents among those described above is, for example, a mixture of ester-terminated poly(ester-amides) and polyalkyleneoxy-terminated polyamides whose molecular weights are approximately between 4,500 and 30,000 Daltons (Da).

[0062] According to a particular mode, the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type used according to the invention is present in the composition in an active material content ranging from 1 to 20% by weight, in particular from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0063] According to a particular method, especially in the case of a liquid composition according to the invention, the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type used according to the invention is present in the composition in an amount of active material ranging from 1 to 20% by weight, in particular from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Oily phase

[0064] The cosmetic composition of the invention comprises a liquid or oily fatty phase.

[0065] The term "oily phase" means an oil or a mixture of oils.

[0066] For the purposes of this invention, "oil" means a fatty substance, insoluble in water, liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure. volatile oil

[0067] The composition of the invention further comprises at least one volatile oil.

[0068] By "oil" we mean a liquid fat at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760mm Hg).

[0069] By "volatile oil" is meant an oil that has lost more than 20% by mass of its mass at 15 minutes, more than 40% by mass of its mass at 30 minutes and more than 70% by mass of its mass at 60 minutes, according to the following protocol: 20mg of the oil to be studied is weighed on a 5cm x 5cm PMMA plate using a micropipette and a precision balance.

[0070] This material is spread over the entire plate using a finger. The plate is then placed in a ventilated chamber with a temperature control of 25°C and 50% humidity. The test is performed three times for each material. The mass loss during drying is measured after 15 minutes, 30 minutes, and 60 minutes. The mass loss is expressed according to the following calculation:

[0071] [Math.l] % mass peraw ——---- x 100 With mtx corresponding to the remaining mass at the measured time (tl5min, t30min or tô0min) and mt0 corresponding to the mass initially applied.

[0072] The volatile oil or oils are in particular chosen from silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0073] By "siliconized oil", according to the invention, means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0074] By "hydrocarbon oil", according to the invention, means an oil formed essentially, or even made up of, carbon and hydrogen atoms and which may include at least one oxygen and / or nitrogen atom, and free from Si, F and P atoms.

[0075] Examples of volatile silicone oils include linear or cyclic volatile silicone oils and their mixtures.

[0076] The volatile oil may be chosen in particular from among silicone oils such as dimethicones (polydimethylsiloxanes) with viscosities ranging from 0.5 to 6 cSt, alkyl trisiloxanes, and cyclomethicones. Examples include octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, and heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane. heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, l,l,l,3,5,5,5-Heptamethyl-3-(trimethylsilyloxy)trisiloxane (also known as methyl trimethicone), decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof, in particular dimethicones with viscosities ranging from 0.5 to 6 cSt, methyl trimethicone and mixtures thereof.

[0077] According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil.

[0078] According to a particular method, the volatile oil(s) in the composition of the invention are hydrocarbon volatile oils selected from: - C8-Ci6 branched alkanes, - linear C9-C14 alkanes, - esters, possibly hydroxylated, in particular C8-C16 branched esters, - the ethers, - dialkoxymethane, - carbonates, - and their mixtures.

[0079] As examples of C8-Ci6 branched alkanes, we can mention in particular the C8-Ci6 iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names ISOPAR® or PERMETYL®,

[0080] Examples of linear C9-C14 alkanes include n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14), and mixtures thereof.

[0081] The linear volatile alkane may be used alone or preferably a mixture of at least two distinct linear volatile alkanes may be used, differing from each other by a number of carbon n of at least 1, in particular differing from each other by a number of carbon of 1 or 2.

[0082] More particularly, a suitable linear volatile alkane for the invention can be implemented in the form of an n-undecane / n-tridecane (Cn / Cu) mixture, an n-nonane and n-dodecane (C9 / C12) mixture or an n-dodecane and n-tetradecane (Ci2 / C14) mixture.

[0083] Examples include alkanes having hydrocarbon chains in:

[0084] - C9-C14, C10-C14, Cl1-C13 such as a mixture of undecane and tridecane, marketed by BASF Care Creations under the name Cetiol® Ultimate,

[0085] - C9-C12, C12-C14, such as those marketed by BIOSYNTHIS under the name VEGELIGHT® SILK (INCI name C9-12 ALKANE), VEGELIGHT® 1214LC,

[0086] - n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), notably sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL® 12-97 and PARAFOL® 14-97, and

[0087] and their mixtures.

[0088] As possibly hydroxylated esters, one can mention in particular esters comprising preferably between 5 and 12 carbon atoms in total, preferably monoesters, and in particular esters of monoalcohol in C2-C6 and of monocarboxylic acid in C3-C6, optionally hydroxylated, comprising between 5 and 11 carbon atoms in total, for example such as isopropyl hexanoate or ethyl lactate.

[0089] As C8-Ci6 branched esters, one can cite in particular isohexyl neopentanoate.

[0090] Examples of ethers, in particular monoethers, include ethers having 4 to 10 carbon atoms in total, for example such as dipentylether.

[0091] Examples of dialkoxymethane include dialkoxymethanes with a total of 3 to 11 carbon atoms, such as dimethoxymethane, diethoxymethane, or dibutoxymethane. Such compounds are marketed, in particular, under the names methylal, ethylal, and butylal, respectively, by the company Lambiotte.

[0092] Examples of carbonates include carbonates having from 3 to 11 carbon atoms in total, for example such as dimethyl carbonate, diethyl carbonate, dipropyl carbonate, or dipentyl carbonate.

[0093] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises at least one nonpolar hydrocarbon volatile oil selected from the group consisting of C8-C16 branched alkanes, C9-C14 linear alkanes, and mixtures thereof, preferably C9-C14 linear alkanes.

[0094] The total content of volatile oil(s) in the composition of the invention, in particular of hydrocarbon volatile oil(s), will generally range from 5% to 40% by weight, preferably from 15% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Non-volatile oils

[0095] By "non-volatile oil", according to the invention, means an oil that does not meet the definition of volatile oil described above.

[0096] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises one or more non-volatile hydrocarbon oils selected from among saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched liquid fatty alcohols, in C10-C26, ester oils, vegetable oils, fatty alcohol and neopentanoic acid esters, fatty alcohol esters and of C8-C18 fatty acids, C8-C10 fatty acid esters and propylene glycol, triglycerides, and mixtures thereof, preferably octyldodecanol.

[0097] As liquid fatty alcohols, saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched, in C10-C26, octyldodecanol may preferably be mentioned.

[0098] Examples of vegetable oils include: sunflower oil, jojoba oil, castor oil and mixtures thereof.

[0099] Among the ester oils, we can notably mention:

[0100] - C8-C18 fatty acid and fatty alcohol esters, in particular coco-caprylate caprate, which is an ester of naturally occurring fatty alcohols (e.g., coconut), caprylic acid, and capric acid.

[0101] - fatty acid esters, in particular of 4 to 22 carbon atoms,

[0102] - synthetic esters such as RiCOOR2 formula oils in which Ri represents the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, particularly a branched one, containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that Ri+R2 is >16, such as isononyl isononanoate, ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl-2-dodecyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-Octyldodecyl myristate, 2-Diethylhexyl succinate;

[0103] - linear fatty acid esters having a total number of carbons ranging from 35 to 70;

[0104] - hydroxylated esters, preferably having a total number of carbons from 35 to 70, such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 pentaisostearate, polyglyceryl 10 nonaisostearate, isostearyl lactate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, glycerin stearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate;

[0105] - esters of aromatic acids and alcohols comprising 4 to 22 atoms;

[0106] - C24-C28 branched fatty alcohol or fatty acid esters;

[0107] - oligomeric polyester dimers obtained by reaction between a fatty alcohol and a dimeric fatty acid; one can cite in particular the dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate (ex: Lusplan™);

[0108] - esters of amino acid derivatives; one can cite in particular Di(phytosteryl) octyldodecyl)N-Lauroyl-L-glutamate (e.g. Eldew®);

[0109] - polyesters resulting from the esterification of at least one acid triglyceride(s) carboxylic(s) hydroxylated by an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and by an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, possibly unsaturated;

[0110] - and their mixtures.

[0111] A person skilled in the art may adjust the percentage of additional oil(s) according to the percentages of polymers used to obtain the desired performance.

[0112] According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition comprises at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil selected from liquid fatty alcohols, saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched, in C10-C26, fatty alcohol and neopentanoic acid esters, fatty alcohol and fatty acid esters in C8-C18, fatty acid and propylene glycol esters, triglycerides, and mixtures thereof, preferably a C10-C26 fatty alcohol such as octyldodecanol.

[0113] As fatty alcohol and neopentanoic acid esters, one can cite in particular the isodecanol and neopentanoic acid ester, otherwise known as isodecyl neopentanoate such as that marketed under the name DUB VCI by Stearinerie Dubois.

[0114] As esters of fatty alcohols and fatty acids in C8-C18, Coco-Caprylate / Caprate can be mentioned in particular.

[0115] As C8-C10 fatty acid esters and propylene glycol, one can cite in particular the caprylic and capric saturated fatty acid ester derived from coconut / palm kernel oil and propylene glycol, with the INCI name Caprylic / Capric TriglyceridesTriglyceride, such as the product marketed under the name MIGLYOL® 840.

[0116] As examples of triglycerides, one can cite in particular triheptanoin, a triglyceride consisting of a glycerol residue esterified by three heptanoic acid residues, such as the product MIGLYOL® TC7.

[0117] According to a particular method, the alkylcellulose polymer, preferably ethylcellulose, is pre-solubilized in a non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil selected from liquid fatty alcohols, saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched, in C10-C26, preferably octyldodecanol, before incorporation into the rest of the composition.

[0118] Advantageously, liquid C10-C26 fatty alcohols are fatty alcohols, preferably branched when they comprise at least 16 carbon atoms.

[0119] Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohol comprises from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0120] By way of particular examples of liquid fatty alcohols that may preferably be used in the composition of the invention, one may mention in particular lauric, isostearyl, oleic alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof.

[0121] According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the liquid C10-C26 fatty alcohol is selected from octyldodecanol.

[0122] Thus, according to a particular mode, the composition of the invention shall comprise at least octyldodecanol.

[0123] The total content of non-volatile hydrocarbon oils in the composition of the invention will generally range from 5% to 75% by weight, preferably from 15% to 70% by weight, and even more preferably from 20% to 65% relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0124] According to a particular mode, the composition comprises at least one liquid C10-C26 fatty alcohol, preferably octyldodecanol, in a content ranging from 5% to 75% by weight, preferably from 15% to 70%, and preferably again from 20% to 65% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0125] Non-volatile silicone oil, phenylated or non-phenylated (optional)

[0126] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, to further improve the gloss and non-transfer of the film applied to keratin materials, the composition of the invention shall further comprise one or more non-volatile silicone oils, phenylated or non-phenylated.

[0127] The non-volatile silicone oils usable in the composition according to the invention may be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising at least one alkyl or alkoxy group, in C2 24- during and / or at the end of the silicone chain

[0128] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one phenylated silicone oil. The phenylated silicone oil may be selected from phenylated silicone oils comprising a dimethicone fragment, phenylated silicone oils not comprising a dimethicone fragment, and mixtures thereof.

[0129] The term 'phenylated silicone oil' according to the invention means an organopolysiloxane substituted by at least one phenyl group. The phenylated silicone oil is in particular selected from the group consisting of phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane and mixtures thereof.

[0130] According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition comprises at least one phenylated silicone non-volatile oil comprising at least one dimethicone fragment.

[0131] By "dimethicone fragment" is meant a divalent siloxane group, in which the silicone atom bears two methyl radicals, said group not being localized at one or both ends of the molecule.

[0132] Such an oil can be represented by the following formula:

[0133] -(Si(CH3)2-O)-

[0134] Preferably, said oil does not comprise a C2-C3 alkene oxide group or a glycerol group.

[0135] Examples of phenylated silicone non-volatile oils comprising a dimethicone fragment include, in particular, oils with the following INCI names: Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone, Diphenyl Dimethicone, Tetramethyl Tetraphenyl Trisiloxane and mixtures thereof, preferably Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone. Examples include diphenyl dimethicone sold under the names KF-54 HV from Shin Etsu and SilShine 150 from Momentive, and Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone marketed under the name Belsil PDM 1000 from Wacker Chemie AG.

[0136] Thus, according to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention comprises at least one phenylated silicone oil of formula (I) Mc f Me 1 r OR' 3 LJ ri . ï Wed—Ss —O:—Si —j--O—Si--0--J, Me1 Fh Jx

[0137] in which

[0138] Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a -OSiMe3 group

[0139] y varies between 1 and 1000, and

[0140] z varies between 1 and 1000.

[0141] For example, Belsils PDM20, PDM 100 and PDM 1000 from Wacker can be used, and in particular trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone, notably sold under the name BELSIL PDM 1000 marketed by the Wacker company.

[0142] The composition may further include other additional non-volatile silicone oils selected from phenylated silicone oils not comprising dimethicone fragments, non-phenylated silicone oils and mixtures thereof.

[0143] Examples of phenylated silicone non-volatile oils not containing a dimethicone fragment include compounds with the following INCI names: Phenyltrimethicone, Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone, Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxanes, and mixtures thereof. An example is the oil marketed under the names KF50, KF53, K54, and KF56 from Shin Etsu, preferably reference KF56 with the INCI name diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, whose formula (II) is as follows:

[0144] We can also mention Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane sold under the name PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic Fluid by Dow Corning and phenyl trimethicone sold under the name Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid by Dow Corning.

[0145] According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention shall comprise a phenylated silicone oil comprising a dimethicone group and a phenylated silicone oil not comprising a dimethicone group.

[0146] As an example of a combination of phenylated silicone oils, one can advantageously cite the combination of trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone, such as that sold under the name BELSIL PDM 1000 marketed by the Wacker company, and Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone, such as that sold under the name KF-56A by Shin Etsu Silicones.

[0147] According to another particular mode, the composition of the invention shall comprise a non-phenylated silicone oil, as a non-volatile silicone oil.

[0148] Examples of non-phenylated silicone non-volatile oils include polydimethylsiloxanes (INCI name: dimethicone) and alkyl dimethicones preferably comprising at least one alkyl group in the C2-C24 position, such as dimethicone, cetyl dimethicone, stearyl dimethicone, and mixtures thereof. Examples include dimethicones with viscosities ranging from 500 cSt to 1000 cSt, such as those marketed under the names MIRASIL DM500 (dimethicone with a viscosity of 500 cSt) and KF-96 A 1000 cSt (dimethicone with a viscosity of 1000 cSt).

[0149] A person skilled in the art will thus be able to determine, based on the viscosity of non-volatile silicone oils, their refractive index at 25°C (generally greater than 1.40) and their compatibility with the other ingredients of the composition of the invention, the combinations allowing to obtain the best gloss and non-transfer properties, as sought in the present invention.

[0150] According to a particular mode, the total content of silicone oil(s), phenylated or non-phenylated, in particular phenylated silicone oils, in the composition of the invention shall in particular range from 15 to 50% by weight, in particular from 20 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Glossy viscous oils (optional)

[0151] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises one or more high molecular weight non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, in particular ester oils selected notably from:

[0152] - esters of aromatic acids and alcohols comprising 4 to 22 atoms; examples include including tridecylle trimellilate (Liponate TDTM);

[0153] - hydroxylated esters, preferably having a total number of carbons ranging from 35 to 70, such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl isostearate 10 (S Face IS 1005p), Polyglyceryl-10 Pentaisostearate, Polyglyceryl 10 Nonaisostearate, Isostearyl Lactate, Octyldodecyl Hydroxystearate, Diisostearyl Malate, Glycerin Stearate; Diethylene Glycol Diisononanoate;

[0154] - oligomeric polyester dimers obtained by reaction between a fatty alcohol and a dimeric fatty acid; examples include dimer dilinoleate esters, such as the following products:

[0155] - polyglyceryl-2 isostearate / dilinoleate dimer copolymer (Hailucent ISDA of Estenity);

[0156] - dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate (e.g. Lusplan™),

[0157] - Octyldodecanol And Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate marketed under the name VISCOPLAST 25,000 SHINE

[0158] - Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer marketed under the name VISCOPLAST 14436H

[0159] - Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer And C15-19 Alkane And Coco-Caprylate / Caprate marketed under the name VISCOPLAST WR-2 1618

[0160] - Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oils And Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate marketed under the name VISCOPLAST 30,000 SHINE,

[0161] - and their mixtures,

[0162] - esters of amino acid derivatives; one example is Di(phytosteryl) octyldodecyl)N-Lauroyl-L-glutamate (e.g. Eldew®);

[0163] - rosine esters, such as rosinate oil with INCI name: METHYL HYDROGENATED ROSINATE marketed under the name FLORALYN;

[0164] - vegetable oils comprising triglycerides and esters, such as unsaponifiable sunflower oil, castor oil and their mixtures,

[0165] - and their mixtures. Silicone polymer (optional)

[0166] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, to further improve the non-transfer of the film applied to keratinous materials, the composition of the invention will further comprise a silicone polymer selected from silicone-polyurethane polymers and silicone-acrylate polymers.

[0167] Silicone-polyurethane polymer

[0168] According to a particular mode, the silicone polymer is a silicone-polyurethane polymer

[0169] The term “silicone-polyurethane polymer” herein means any polymer comprising organosiloxane motifs and methane bonds.

[0170] According to a particular mode, the silicone-polyurethane polymer used in the context of the invention is the reaction product of a polyorganosiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups, preferably comprising at least two hydroxyl groups, with a diisocyanate compound.

[0171] The diisocyanates that may be suitable within the scope of the invention include, without limitation, toluene diisocyanate; methylene diphenyl diisocyanate, including 2,2'-MDI, 2,4'-MDI and 4,4'-MDI; 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate; isophorone diisocyanate; dicyclohexylmethane-4,4' diisocyanate; xylene diisocyanate; cyclohexane diisocyanate; 3,3'-dimethyl-4,4'-diphenylmethane diisocyanate; p-phenylene diisocyanate; m-phenylene diisocyanate; 4,4'-isopropylidene dicyclohexyl isocyanate; and their equivalents.

[0172] In a preferred embodiment, the diisocyanate is chosen from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexylmethane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations.

[0173] In one embodiment, the diisocyanate comprises or consists essentially of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate.

[0174] In another embodiment, the diisocyanate comprises or essentially consists of isophorone diisocyanate.

[0175] In yet another embodiment, the diisocyanate comprises or consists essentially of dicyclohexylmethane 4,4'-diisocyanate, this embodiment being particularly preferred.

[0176] Thus, according to a particular mode, the silicone-polyurethane polymer is the reaction product

[0177] - of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized by hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to formula structure (III) OH^CH^Œ2~Œ3 ~Si"“ I CIL (HD

[0178] in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50,

[0179] - with a diisocyanate compound, in particular selected from the group consisting of the 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexylmethane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations.

[0180] In one embodiment of the invention, the silicone-polyurethane polymer is free or essentially free of polyalkylene glycol subunits, in particular polyethylene glycol (PEG) or polypropylene glycol (PPG).

[0181] By "essentially free of", it is understood that the polymer comprises less than about 1% by weight, preferably less than about 0.5% by weight, and more preferably less than about 0.1% by weight of polyalkylene glycol subunits.

[0182] In a preferred embodiment, the silicone-polyurethane polymer used in the cosmetic compositions of the invention is a linear polymer comprising the reaction product of formula III with a diisocyanate selected from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexylmethane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations.

[0183] Such a silicone-polyurethane polymer is available for example from Siltech Corporation in the form of a premix in isododecane, under the trade reference SILMER UR 5050 (45% polymer dry matter in isododecane).

[0184] According to another embodiment, a silicone-polyurethane polymer is used in the form of a premix in a hemisqualane.

[0185] According to another embodiment, a silicone-polyurethane polymer is used in the form of a premix in a C9-C16 linear alkane or a mixture of C9-C16 linear alkanes, preferably a mixture of n-nonane and n-dodecane (C9-C12, VEGELIGHT SILK) or a mixture of n-undecane and n-tridecane (C11-C13, CETIOL ULTIMATE).

[0186] According to a particular mode, the silicone-polyurethane polymer according to the invention will be present in the composition of the invention in a content ranging from 1 to 20% by weight of active polymer (dry matter), preferably from 2 to 18% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 15% by weight of active polymer, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0187] Silicone-acrylate polymers

[0188] In another embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, as a silicone polymer, at least one silicone-acrylate polymer.

[0189] The "silicone-acrylate polymers" or "silicone acrylate polymers" can be selected from silicone acrylate polymers with or without a dendrimer motif.

[0190] Carbosiloxane dendrimer motif vinyl polymer (dendrimer motif silicone acrylate polymer)

[0191] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises, as a silicone polymer, a silicone acrylate polymer with a dendrimer motif, in particular a vinyl polymer with a carbosiloxane dendrimer motif.

[0192] The vinyl polymer notably has a backbone and at least one side chain, which includes a carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif having a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure, such as those described in Dow Chemical Company's applications W003 / 045337 and EP 963 751.

[0193] The term "carbosiloxane dendrimer structure" in the context of the present invention represents a molecular structure possessing branched groups having high molecular weights, said structure having high regularity in the radial direction from the linkage to the backbone. Such carbosiloxane dendrimer structures are described in the form of a highly branched siloxane-silylalkylene copolymer in Japanese patent application JP 9-171 154.

[0194] According to a preferred embodiment, a vinyl polymer suitable for the invention may be one of the polymers described in the examples of application EP 0 963 751.

[0195] According to a preferred embodiment, a vinyl polymer grafted with a carbosiloxane dendrimer can be obtained from the polymerization of:

[0196] (A) from 0 to 99.9 part(s) by weight of one or more acrylate monomer(s) or methacrylate and

[0197] (B) from 100 to 0.1 part(s) by weight of an acrylate or methacrylate monomer of a dendrimer carbosiloxane tri[tri(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl dimethylsiloxy]silylpropyl.

[0198] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, a vinyl polymer having at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif comprises a tri[tri(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl dimethylsiloxy]silylpropyl carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif corresponding to one of the formulas

[0200] According to a preferred embodiment, a vinyl polymer having at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif used in the invention comprises at least one butyl acrylate monomer.

[0201] According to a preferred embodiment, a grafted vinyl polymer as defined in the present invention can be conveyed in an oil or a mixture of oil(s), of volatile preference(s) in particular, chosen from silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils and their mixtures.

[0202] According to another particular embodiment, a silicone oil suitable for the invention may be dimethicone.

[0203] According to another particular embodiment, a hydrocarbon oil suitable for the invention may be isododecane.

[0204] Preferably, the vinyl polymer grafted with at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif usable in a composition of the invention is an acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer with INCI name: ACRYLATES / POLYTRIMETHYL SILOXYMETHACRYLATE COPOLYMER, in particular that marketed in isododecane under the name DOWSIL™ FA 4004 ID Silicone Acrylate by Dow Chemical (40% polymer in 60% isododecane) or that marketed in dimethicone under the name DOWSIL™ FA 4003 ID Silicone Acrylate by Dow Chemical (40% polymer in 60% dimethicone 2c st).

[0205] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises a vinyl polymer having at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif in an active material (dry matter) content of 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably between 1 and 5% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

[0206] Silicone acrylate polymer (without dendrimer motif)

[0207] According to another embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises, as a silicone polymer, a silicone acrylate polymer which does not comprise a dendrimer motif.

[0208] This silicone acrylate polymer is a copolymer comprising (meth)acrylic groups and polydimethylsiloxane groups.

[0209] According to the present invention, "copolymer comprising (meth)acrylic groups and polydimethylsiloxane groups" means a copolymer obtained from (a) one or more (meth)acrylic acid monomers or meth)acrylic acid ester and (b) one or more polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) chains.

[0210] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the silicone acrylate copolymer comprises at least one group selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, methyl, ethyl, stearyl, butyl, ethyl-2-hexyl acrylates or methacrylates, and mixtures thereof.

[0211] The copolymers used in the composition of the invention are generally obtained according to the usual methods of polymerization and grafting, for example by radical polymerization (A) of a PDMS comprising at least one polymerizable radical group (for example on one or both ends of the chain) and (B) of at least one carboxylic monomer, as described for example in documents US-A-5,061,481 and US-A-5,219,560. The copolymers obtained generally have a molecular weight ranging from about 3000 to 200,000 and preferably from about 5000 to 100,000. The copolymer used in the composition of the invention may be in the form as such or dispersed in a solvent such as lower alcohols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as isopropyl alcohol, or oils such as volatile silicone oils (e.g., methyl trimethicone) or hydrocarbon oils (e.g., isododecane).

[0212] Examples include polydimethylsiloxane-grafted acrylic acid-stearyl acrylate copolymers, polydimethylsiloxane-grafted stearyl methacrylate copolymers, polydimethylsiloxane-grafted acrylic acid-stearyl methacrylate copolymers, and polydimethylsiloxane-grafted methyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, ethyl-2-hexyl acrylate, and stearyl methacrylate copolymers, such as the copolymers marketed by SHIN-ETSU under the names KP-561® (INCI name: ACRYLATES / STEARYL ACRYLATE / DIMETHICONE METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER) or KP-541® (INCI name: ACRYLATES / DIMETHICONE AND ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL).

[0213] According to a particular method, copolymers of polydimethylysiloxane and one or more monomers selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and their esters are used, such as the products marketed by the company Shin Etsu under the name KP-550® and INCI name ACRYLATES / DIMETHICONE COPOLYMER AND ISODODECANE; or KP-549® and KP-579® INCI name ACRYLATES / DIMETHICONE COPOLYMER AND METHYL TRIMETHICONE. Other ingredients

[0214] The composition of the invention may further comprise at least one additional ingredient selected from additional lipophilic gelling agents distinct from the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, additional lipophilic polymers, C2-C5 monoalcohols, antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, cosmetic actives, coloring materials, fillers, and mixtures thereof.

[0215] According to a particular mode, the compositions of the invention shall comprise at least one C2-C5 monoalcohol, in particular ethanol.

[0216] According to another particular mode, the composition will not include C2-C5 monoalcohols, such as ethanol.

[0217] The total content of C2-C5 monoalcohol(s), when present in the composition, may range from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0218] As additional lipophilic gelling agents distinct from the polyamide-type lipophilic polycondensate, examples include modified clays, organic lipophilic gelling agents and mixtures thereof, preferably modified clays.

[0219] Modified clays (also known as organomodified clays) are clays treated with compounds selected in particular from quaternary and tertiary amines, preferably quaternary amines.

[0220] The clays are in particular natural or synthetic clays selected from bentonites, especially hectorites and montmorillonites. Preferably, they shall be hectorites. Even more preferably, a hectorite modified with a quaternary alkylammonium chloride is used, said ammonium being substituted by at least one, and preferably at least two alkyl radicals in Cl4-C20, such as disteardimonium hectorite in which the ammonium comprises two methyls and two stearyls.

[0221] As a preferred modified clay, one can cite in particular a modified hectorite dispersed in an oil, for example the product with INCI name: COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE (and) DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE (and) PROPYLENE CARBONATE marketed under the name BENTONE GEL CCC V MB by the company Elementis.

[0222] Additional lipophilic polymers may include, in particular:

[0223] polyolefins, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, and preferably polymers or copolymers of alkenes comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as polybutenes, polyisobutenes, polydecenes,

[0224] styrene and indene copolymers, such as the compound with INCI name hydrogenated styrene / methyl styrene / indene copolymer (Regalite RI 100 CG),

[0225] sugar esters, in particular sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB),

[0226] branched dextrin esters, such as dextrin isostearate,

[0227] plant resins, such as candelilla resin,

[0228] silicone polymers such as silicone acrylate polymers, polyalkylsilsesquioxanes comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and

[0229] mixtures thereof. Coloring agents

[0230] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, in particular for makeup compositions, the composition comprises at least one coloring material.

[0231] Colouring material in the context of the present invention means a compound capable of producing a coloured optical effect when formulated in sufficient quantity in a suitable cosmetic medium.

[0232] A colouring material can be chosen from organic or inorganic colouring materials, optical effect materials such as mother-of-pearl, and mixtures thereof, soluble or insoluble in the oily phase of the invention.

[0233] According to a particular method, the colouring material(s) are chosen in particular from pigments, mother-of-pearl, liposoluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.

[0234] Said colouring materials may or may not be treated with a lipophilic treatment agent. The lipophilic treatment agent is in particular chosen from the group consisting of metallic soaps, N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; diisostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes, polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids, and their mixtures, in particular N-acylated amino acids or their salts.

[0235] These colouring materials, particularly when they are pigments, are generally pre-dispersed in a dispersing agent before being incorporated into the composition.

[0236] The term "pigments" means white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting deposit. Examples include mineral pigments, organic pigments, and composite pigments (i.e., pigments based on mineral and / or organic materials).

[0237] Examples of "mineral pigments" include titanium dioxide (rutile or anatase), possibly surface-treated; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides; manganese violet; ultramarine blue; chromium oxide; hydrated chromium oxide; and ferric blue.

[0238] Examples of lip compositions include titanium dioxide; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides and manganese violet.

[0239] Among the "organic pigments", examples include D&C Red No. 19; D&C Red No. 9; D&C Red No. 22; D&C Red No. 21; D&C Red No. 28; D&C Yellow No. 6; D&C Orange No. 4; D&C Orange No. 5; D&C Red No. 27; D&C Red No. 13; D&C Red No. 7; D&C Red No. 6; D&C Yellow No. 5; D&C Red No. 36; D&C Red No. 33; D&C Orange No. 10; D&C Yellow No. 6; D&C Red No. 30; D&C Red No. 3; D&C Blue 1; carbon black and lacquers.

[0240] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises at least pigments selected from iron oxides, organic dyes and pigments, and mixtures thereof.

[0241] In particular, the colouring material(s) are present in the composition in a content ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0242] According to a particular method, the total content of colouring materials shall range from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

[0243] In a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises: - at least one alkylcellulose, - at least one lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, - at least one volatile oil, - at least one phenyl-coated, silicone-based, non-volatile oil, and - in addition, at least one coloring agent.

[0244] According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention comprises: - at least one ethylcellulose, - at least one lipophilic polycondensate of the ester-terminated polyamide type and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide), in particular an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid and neopentyl glycol, with ethylenediamine; the remaining acidic end groups being esterified by stearyl alcohol, and having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8 - at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil, in particular chosen from among the linear C9-C14 alkanes,

[0245] - at least one phenylated silicone non-volatile oil comprising at least one dimethicone fragment such as a phenylated silicone oil of formula (I)

[0246] in which

[0247] - Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OsiMe3, - y varies between 1 and 1000, and - z varies between 1 and 1000,

[0248] more specifically trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone, and - in addition, at least one coloring agent.

[0249] In another particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises: - at least one alkylcellulose, - at least one lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, - at least one volatile oil, - at least one phenyl-siliconized non-volatile oil, - at least one C2-C5 monoalcohol, and - in addition, at least one coloring agent.

[0250] According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention comprises: - at least one ethylcellulose, - at least one lipophilic polycondensate of the ester-terminated polyamide type and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide), in particular an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, plus particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid and neopentyl glycol, on ethylenediamine; the remaining acidic endings being esterified by stearyl alcohol, and having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8 at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil, in particular selected from the linear C9-C14 alkanes,

[0251] - at least one phenylated silicone non-volatile oil comprising at least one dimethicone fragment such as a phenylated silicone oil of formula (I) Me Me SU—O—Si GOLD' BONE? O---------------Si(CHj (I) Me

[0252] in which

[0253] - Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OsiMe3, y varies between 1 and 1000, and z varies between 1 and 1000.

[0254] more specifically trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone at least ethanol, and in addition at least one coloring agent.

[0255] In another particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises: at least one alkylcellulose, at least one lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type at least one volatile oil, at least one silicone-polyurethane polymer, and in addition at least one coloring agent.

[0256] According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention comprises: at least one ethylcellulose, at least one lipophilic polycondensate of the ester-terminated polyamide type and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide), in particular an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid and neopentyl glycol, with ethylenediamine; the remaining acidic end groups being esterified with stearyl alcohol, and having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8 at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil, in particular chosen from linear C9-C14 alkanes, at least one silicone-polyurethane polymer, such as a silicone-polyurethane polymer that is the reaction product

[0257] - of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to formula structure (III) OH^CH^Œ2~Œ3 ~Si“~ I ~Œ2~Œ2- OH (HD

[0258] in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50,

[0259] - with a diisocyanate compound, in particular selected from the group consisting of the 1,6-Hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexyl methane-4,4'-diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and combinations thereof, and - in addition, at least one coloring agent.

[0260] In another particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises: - at least one alkylcellulose, - at least one lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, - at least one volatile oil, - at least one phenyl-siliconized non-volatile oil, - at least one silicone-polyurethane polymer, and - in addition, at least one coloring agent.

[0261] According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention comprises: - at least one ethylcellulose, - at least one lipophilic polycondensate of the ester-terminated polyamide type and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide), in particular an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid and neopentyl glycol, with ethylenediamine; the remaining acidic end groups being esterified by stearyl alcohol, and having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8 - at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil, in particular chosen from among the linear C9-C14 alkanes,

[0262] - at least one phenylated silicone non-volatile oil comprising at least one dimethicone fragment such as a phenylated silicone oil of formula (I) WL Me '] O-Si—|" Me J' Ph (I) SUCH.^

[0263] in which

[0264] - Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OsiMe3, - y varies between 1 and 1000, and - z varies between 1 and 1000,

[0265] more specifically trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone - at least one silicone-polyurethane polymer, such as a silicone-polyurethane polymer that is the reaction product

[0266] - of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to formula structure (III) r 1 (III) 1 i * । H l I CH, l ] CH, n

[0267] in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50,

[0268] - with a diisocyanate compound, in particular selected from the group consisting of the 1,6-Hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexyl methane-4,4'-diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and combinations thereof, and - in addition, at least one coloring agent.

[0269] In another particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises: - at least one alkylcellulose, - at least one lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, - at least one volatile oil, - at least one phenyl-siliconized non-volatile oil, - at least one silicone-polyurethane polymer, - at least one C2-C5 monoalcohol, and - in addition at least one coloring material.

[0270] According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention comprises: - at least one ethylcellulose, at least one lipophilic polycondensate of the ester-terminated polyamide type and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide), in particular an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid and neopentyl glycol, with ethylenediamine; the remaining acidic end groups being esterified with stearyl alcohol, and having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8 at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil, in particular chosen from linear C9-Ci4 alkanes

[0271] - at least one phenylated silicone non-volatile oil comprising at least one dimethicone fragment such as a phenylated silicone oil of formula (I) (I) Mq Me ] r Œ n .......O———0----------------81(0¾ Me 1 Ph J*

[0272] in which

[0273] - Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OsiMe3, - y varies between 1 and 1000, and - z varies between 1 and 1000,

[0274] more specifically trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone

[0275] - at least one silicone-polyurethane polymer, such as a silicone- polyurethane, which is the reaction product

[0276] - of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to formula structure (III) I CH3 î | l $ ! OH “Œ, “~Si—Of-SiO —Œ, ~ Œr OH AJ k

[0277] in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50,

[0278] - with a diisocyanate compound, in particular selected from the group consisting of the 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, 4,4'-dicyclohexyl methane diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and combinations thereof, - at least ethanol, and - furthermore at least one coloring matter.

[0279] According to the particular methods described above, the total contents of each of the ingredients, when present in the composition of the invention, and in relation to the total weight of said composition, will advantageously be: - 1 to 10% by weight of alkylcellulose active ingredient, preferably ethylcellulose, - 2 to 10% by weight of lipophilic polycondensate active ingredient of the polyamide type, - 15 to 30% by weight of volatile oil(s), - 20 to 40% by weight of non-volatile phenyl-siliconized oil(s), - 5 to 15% by weight of active silicone-polyurethane polymer material, - 1 to 10% by weight of C2-C5 monoalcohol(s), and - 2 to 10% by weight of coloring matter(s). GALENIQUE

[0280] The composition of the invention is an anhydrous liquid composition.

[0281] In particular, it will be a liquid anhydrous composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular a composition for the skin such as an eyeliner, eyeshadow or foundation, or a composition for the eyelashes such as a mascara, preferably a composition for the lips such as a gloss or lip lacquer.

[0282] The different embodiments of the compositions according to the invention are described above. COSMETIC PROCESS

[0283] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin and / or lips, comprising the application on said keratinous materials of a composition as defined above.

[0284] When applied to the skin or lips, the compositions of the invention form a glossy, non-transfer film.

[0285] The different embodiments of the compositions according to the invention are described above.

[0286] The present invention will now be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. Percentages are expressed as weight of raw material relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated. EXAMPLES

[0287] Example 1: Evaluation of gloss and non-transfer

[0288] The gloss and non-transfer properties of the compositions described in the examples below were evaluated according to the following protocols. Glossy appearance

[0289] The brilliance of the compositions was evaluated according to the following protocol.

[0290] It consists of applying 3 layers of composition to each lip, and, after 10 min, visually assessing the shine of the composition on the lips.

[0291] They are assigned ratings according to their level of gloss, the categories being determined using the liquid commercial compositions below as references: - Very glossy or 'Vinyl': YSL Vinyl Cream lip lacquer (Mintel ID: 6589587), - Gloss: Rouge Dior Forever Liquid transfer-proof liquid lipstick (Mintel ID: 11131402), - Satin: Chanel Rouge Allure Spring 2024 - Laque Ultrawear Shine Liquid Lip Colour (Mintel ID: 11620242), and - Matte: Rouge Dior Forever Liquid transfer-proof matte liquid lipstick (Mintel ID: 8574469). Non-transfer aspect

[0292] In parallel, the compositions were also evaluated on the property of "non-transfer" according to the following protocol.

[0293] It consists of applying 3 layers of composition to each lip, and, after 10 minutes, placing a glass slide on the lips. The transfer of each composition onto the glass slide can then be evaluated.

[0294] The transfer of each composition is evaluated by visual observation of the residual deposit on the glass slide and notations are assigned to them:

[0295] Non-transfer: no transfer

[0296] Low transfer: light transfer

[0297] Transfer: large transfer.

[0298] According to the invention, compositions are sought that provide improved non-transfer properties.

[0299] The compositions of the invention also make it possible to obtain a makeup film with good long-lasting wear, without migration around the lips, for a precise and defined lip contour. The wear can notably be evaluated by a panel of experts, according to the following protocol: - Each formula is applied to half of the lips, the formula of the invention on the left side for example and the comparative formula on the right side; - Photos of the lips on which the formulas were applied were taken at T immediately after application, at T+ 15min, T+2h, and T+4h; - The experts evaluated the film's durability and the gloss of the tested compositions.

[0300] Good hold, as desired for the compositions of the invention, corresponds to maintaining good adhesion of the film over time, without migration into the fine lines around the lips, with a precise and clear contour of the made-up lips. Conversely, poor hold or degraded hold corresponds to a decrease in the film's adhesion over time and / or migration into the fine lines around the lips, leading to a blurred contour of the made-up lips.

[0301] According to the invention, compositions are sought to obtain a more satiny film than the Chanel Rouge Allure Spring 2024 - Laque Ultrawear Shine Liquid Lip Colour, or even glossy compositions like the Rouge Dior Forever Liquid transfer-proof liquid lipstick or very glossy ones like the YSL Vinyl cream lip varnish, but having in addition an equivalent or even improved 'non-transfer' property compared to the Rouge Dior Forever Liquid transfer-proof liquid lipstick (glossy and non-transfer reference).

[0302] Example 2: Liquid lipsticks according to the invention

[0303] Different liquid lipsticks according to the invention have been formulated respectively:

[0304] Composition 1: without phenylated silicone oil ('no-mix' mode),

[0305] Composition 2: with phenylated silicone oil (mode 'with demixing'),

[0306] Composition 3: with phenylated silicone oil and additional silicone polymer- polyurethane in isododecane,

[0307] Composition 4: close to composition 3, but without ethanol or pigments.

[0308] Percentages are expressed as weight of raw material relative to the final composition.

[0309] [Tables 1] Ingredients (INCI and trade names) Composition 1

[499] % by weight Composition 2

[479] % by weight Composition 3

[493] % by weight Composition 4

[512] % by weight Al Polyamide-8 (SP OLEOCRAFT LP -20 MBAL-PA-(MV) MB) 5.00 3.15 3.15 3.15 Al Trimethylsiloxypheny-1-dimethicone (BELSIL PDM 1000) / qs. 100 qs. 100 qs. 100 A2 Ethylcellulose 9.54 7.27 6.01 9.09 (ETHOCEL STD 7 P REMIUM) A2 Octyldodecanol 38.16 29.08 24.04 27.26 B1 Pigments 3.90 2.45 2.45 - B2 C9-12 alkanes (VEGELIGHT SILK DEODORIZED) 12.21 7.06 7.06 1.89 C Ethanol 5.00 3.15 3.15 - C Disteardimonium hect orite (15%), propylene carbonate (4%), C9-1 2 alkane (81%) (VEGELIGHT BENT ONE SILK) 17.20 10.84 1.39 10.84 D Bis-hydroxypropyl di methicone / SMDI cop olymer (45%) in iso dodecane (55%) (SIL MER UR-5050) / / 15.75 25.00

[0310] The compositions are prepared according to the following procedure:

[0311] In a beaker in a water bath at 95°C, with stirring:

[0312] Phase A2 is prepared by forming an ethylcellulose pregel in octyldodecanol under emulsifier, Ih at 700rpm (rotations per minute), then de-bubbles by reducing agitation.

[0313] In parallel, the Al phase is heated until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.

[0314] We stop heating, we allow to cool to room temperature under stirring.

[0315] Phase A2 is added to phase Al and homogenized for 20 min at 500 rpm.

[0316] Phases B1 and B2 are then added.

[0317] Then phase C is added, then D, and homogenized with a Turrax® type homogenizer.

[0318] The compositions obtained are packaged in airtight containers to prevent evaporation of the alcohol.

[0319] The compositions obtained are liquid lip products.

[0320] When applied to the lips, the compositions provide long-lasting makeup, evaluated according to the protocol of example 1, as being ultra-glossy. (vinyl) and non-transfer, with even better non-transfer performance for compositions 2, 3 and 4.

[0321] These results show that the presence of ethylcellulose, combined with polyamide-8, allows for good gloss and non-transfer properties of the lip products obtained, with non-transfer performance further improved in the presence of a phenylated silicone oil (composition 2 with Belsil) and / or a silicone-polyurethane polymer (compositions 3 and 4). Example 3: Comparative Examples

[0322] The effect of the combination of ethylcellulose and polyamide-8 on the properties of gloss, non-transfer and hold (composition 2 according to the invention) was compared to compositions not comprising polyamide-8) as illustrated in composition 5 or comprising another polymer than ethylcellulose as illustrated in composition 6, with isotoners.

[0323] Thus, composition 5 (comparative without Oleocraft) is similar to composition 2 (according to the invention), in which the Oleocraft content has been transferred to the bentone. Composition 6 (comparative without ethylcellulose) is similar to composition 2 (according to the invention), in which the ethylcellulose has been replaced by a branched dextrin ester (dextrin isostearate), with an equivalent active ingredient content.

[0324] [Tables2] Ingredients (INCI names and trade names) Composition 2

[479] (invention) % by weight Composition 5

[519] (comparative without Oleocraft - % reported on bentone) % by weight Composition 6

[503] (comparative without ethylcellulose - with another polymer) % by weight A Polyamide-8 (SP OLEOCRAFT LP -20 MBAL-PA-(MV) MB) 3.15 / 3.15 A Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone (BELSIL PDM 1000) QsplOO QsplOO QsplOO A dextrin isostearate and octyldodecanol (Miyo film ODD, 75% matter / / 9.7 active in octyldodecanol) (7,27 dextrin isopropylene carbonate and 2,43 octyldodecanol) A2 Ethylcellulose (ETHOCEL STD 7 PREMIUM) 7.27 7.27 / A2 Octyldodecanol 29.08 29.08 26.65 B1 Pigments 2.45 7.62 2.45 B2 C9-12 alkane (VEGELIGHT SILK DESODORIZED) 7.06 7.06 7.06 C Ethanol 3.15 3.15 3.15 C Disteardimonium hectorete (15%), propylene carbonate (4%), C9-12 alkane (81%) (VEGELIGHT BENT ONE SILK) 10.84 13.99 10.84 Ratings Gloss Vinyl Matte Vinyl Non-transfer Non-transfer Non-transfer Transfer Longevity over time (at T+15min, T+2h, and T+4h) (application to the half-lips of composition 2 and composition 5 and evaluation at T+15min, T+2h, and T+4h). Good longevity over time, the colored film does not migrate, resulting in a precise and sharp outline of the made-up lips. Gradient longevity The colored film migrates around the lips, resulting in a blurred outline of the made-up lips. Not evaluated

[0325] Composition 5 is prepared as in composition 2 described above.

[0326] Composition 6 is prepared according to the following procedure:

[0327] Phase A is heated to 90°C while stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained. Heating is then stopped and the mixture is left to stir until it returns to room temperature.

[0328] Phase A2 is then added under stirring.

[0329] Phases B and then C are then added and the mixture is stirred with a homogenizer of type Turrax® for 1 min at 12,000 rpm.

[0330] The compositions obtained are liquid lip products.

[0331] When applied to the lips, the compositions provide a makeup finish, evaluated according to the protocol of Example 1, as glossy and transfer-proof for compositions 2 and 5, but whose staying power for composition 5 is unacceptable (the composition migrates into the fine lines around the lips, blurring the lip contour). Furthermore, combining polyamide-8 with a polymer other than ethylcellulose, as illustrated in composition 6 with Miyofilm (dextrin isostearate), shows that a glossy and transfer-proof finish is not achieved.

[0332] These results therefore show that ethylcellulose in association with polyamide-8 makes it possible to obtain acceptable hold and the desired gloss and non-transfer properties.

Claims

Demands

1. Liquid anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: - at least one alkylcellulose, preferably an ethylcellulose, - at least one lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, and - at least one volatile oil, and - optionally in addition at least one coloring matter.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it further comprises one or more non-volatile hydrocarbon oils selected from saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched liquid fatty alcohols, C10-C26, ester oils, vegetable oils, fatty alcohol and neopentanoic acid esters, C8-C18 fatty alcohol and fatty acid esters, C8-C10 fatty acid and propylene glycol esters, triglycerides, and mixtures thereof, preferably octyldodecanol.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that alkylcellulose, preferably ethylcellulose, is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15%, preferably again from 1 to 10% by weight of dry (active) matter relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type is selected from ester-terminated polyamides, in particular an ester-terminated polyamide obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a linoleic acid dimer, on ethylenediamine, the remaining acidic endings being esterified by cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, or a mixture thereof, and having the INCI name: ETHYLENEDIAMINE / STEARYL DIMER DILINOLEATE COPOLYMER; tertiary amide-terminated polyamides; polyalkyleneoxy-terminated polyamides; ester-terminated poly(ester-amides); and mixtures thereof;in particular a poly(ester-amide) with ester termination obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid and neopentyl glycol, on ethylene diamine, the remaining acid terminations being esterified by stearyl alcohol, and having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8.;

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type is present in an active material content of 1 to 20% by weight, in particular 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the volatile oil(s) are hydrocarbon volatile oils selected from C8-Ci6 branched alkanes, C9-CM linear alkanes, esters, optionally hydroxylated, in particular C8-Ci6 branched esters, ethers, dialkoxymethane, carbonates, and mixtures thereof, preferably C8-Ci6 branched alkanes, C9-C[4] linear alkanes, and mixtures thereof, preferably C9-Ci4 linear alkanes.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the volatile oil(s), in particular the hydrocarbon volatile oil(s), are present in the composition in a total content of 5% to 40% by weight, preferably 15% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it further comprises one or more non-volatile silicone, phenylated or non-phenylated oils.

9. Composition according to claim 8, characterized in that the phenylated silicone non-volatile oil comprises at least one dimethicone fragment and is in particular selected from trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl dimethicones, tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxanes and mixtures thereof, preferably is a phenylated silicone oil of formula (I) (I) Me | r OR'" Me—Si H— O—Si —1--O—• Si--O----S h Cli s K r I iui Me Me L Ph in which Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a -OsiMe3 group, y varies between 1 and 1000, and - z varies between 1 and 1000, preferably trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone.

10. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it further comprises a silicone polymer selected from silicone-polyurethane polymers and silicone-acrylate polymers, preferably a silicone-polyurethane polymer, in particular the reaction product - of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the structure of formula (III) CHj [ CH3 1 OH, j H p CH3 LJ a CKî in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and more preferably still between 10 and 50, - with a diisocyanate compound, in particular selected from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexyl methane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and combinations thereof.

11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it further comprises one or more C2-C5 monoalcohols, preferably ethanol.

12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it is a liquid anhydrous composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular a composition for the skin such as an eyeliner, eyeshadow or foundation, or a composition for the eyelashes such as a mascara, preferably a composition for the lips such as a gloss or lip lacquer.

13. Cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin and / or lips, comprising the application on said keratinous materials of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 12.