Glossy, transfer-proof formula

Abstract

The present invention relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least: a silicone polymer selected from silicone-polyurethane and silicone-acrylate polymers, a lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, a non-volatile silicone oil, phenylated or non-phenylated, a volatile oil, and optionally at least one coloring agent. Figure: none

Description

Title of the invention: Glossy, non-transfer composition FIELD OF INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetics. It relates in particular to glossy, non-transfer anhydrous compositions for skincare and / or makeup of keratinous materials, especially skin or lips. PRIOR TECHNOLOGY

[0002] Prior art is known to exist for skincare and / or makeup compositions containing keratin-based materials with shine and staying power, but these materials tend to leave a colored residue on any surface (skin, clothing, etc.) with which they come into contact (these products are said to transfer). In the world of lipsticks, in particular, the demand is for an ultra-glossy product (a "vinyl" finish) with very long-lasting wear, or even one that does not transfer or transfers very little upon contact with a surface (a property known as "non-transfer").

[0003] But to the Applicant's knowledge, there are currently no such products on the market that offer very long wear with non-transfer properties and easy makeup removal.

[0004] Liquid products such as lip glosses do indeed have the characteristic of providing a very shiny or "vinyl" film on the lips, but they have the disadvantage of providing a film with little coverage and low color intensity, often with limited staying power, significant migration into fine lines, and significant transfer. Solid products, particularly in stick form, have the advantage of providing intense color with longer-lasting wear and / or non-transfer properties, but are not as shiny as a gloss; sticks described as long-lasting but not "non-transfer" generally have a satin finish (not a glossy one), and "non-transfer" sticks are matte and less comfortable, even drying.

[0005] Other proposals exist to obtain a glossy and non-transferable deposit, but are generally presented in the form of products to be applied in 2 steps (so-called "double step" products): a first colored layer in contact with the lips, long-lasting, non-transferable, but not glossy, and a second ultra-glossy transparent layer placed on the first ("top coat") which provides the shine and the non-stickiness, and which can transfer without leaving any trace or colored residue.

[0006] Similarly for the eyes, there are no non-transfer and non-sticky glitter eyeshadows, nor non-transfer glitter liners or mascaras.

[0007] We are therefore looking for new skincare and / or makeup compositions for keratinous materials (including skin, lips, eyelashes), in a single step, exhibiting very good shine and / or long-lasting properties, which do not migrate into wrinkles and fine lines and / or improved "non-transfer" properties.

[0008] These properties can be evaluated by any method known in the art for evaluating such properties. Furthermore, these characteristics can be evaluated in relation to other compositions, such as commercially available compositions.

[0009] The Applicant has identified a specific combination of ingredients consisting of at least one silicone polymer and a lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, in an anhydrous composition comprising at least one volatile oil and one or more non-volatile silicone oils, phenylated or non-phenylated, enabling the production of a glossy to ultra-glossy film ('vinyl') exhibiting very long-lasting performance and improved non-transfer properties.

[0010] The composition of the invention has excellent gloss properties and an unprecedented non-transfer result for this type of glossy compositions. Description of the invention

[0011] The present invention therefore relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least:

[0012] - a silicone polymer selected from silicone-polyurethane polymers and the silicone-acrylate polymers,

[0013] - a lipophilic polycondensate of polyamide type,

[0014] - a non-volatile silicone oil, phenylated or non-phenylated,

[0015] - a volatile oil, and

[0016] - possibly in addition at least one coloring matter.

[0017] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular the skin and / or lips, preferably the lips, of a composition according to the invention.

[0018] By "cosmetic composition" we mean any composition with a cosmetic purpose, that is to say aesthetic, which may be brought into contact with the superficial parts of the human body and more particularly with keratinous materials, in particular human skin and / or lips.

[0019] By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant any excipient suitable for topical use, in contact with keratinous materials, without risk of toxicity, incompatibility, instability and / or allergic response.

[0020] By "keratinous materials" according to the invention, we mean the skin and / or its appendages, in particular the skin, eyelashes, eyebrows, lips, and more particularly human skin and / or lips.

[0021] By "anhydrous", it is understood in particular that water is preferably not deliberately added to the compositions but may be present in trace amounts in the different compounds used in the compositions. In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 4% by weight of water, preferably less than 3%, preferably less than 2%, more preferably less than 1%, even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of said composition, or is even totally free of water.

[0022] The composition of the invention may be a liquid composition or a solid composition.

[0023] According to a first embodiment, the composition of the invention is liquid.

[0024] For the purposes of the present invention, "liquid composition" means a liquid to fluid composition which is capable of flowing under its own weight, at 20°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), as opposed to so-called solid compositions.

[0025] According to another embodiment, the composition is solid.

[0026] By "solid composition" according to the invention, we mean a composition which does not flow under its own weight, at 20°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm of Hg), as opposed to so-called liquid compositions.

[0027] The composition may in particular be in the form of a stick or a composition packaged in a cup.

[0028] The hardness of the compositions of the invention, in particular the sticks, can be measured at 20°C using the so-called "butter wire" method, which consists of cutting a stick of product with a diameter between 10 and 12 mm, preferably cylindrical in revolution, transversely with a rigid metal wire of 250 µm diameter, moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 60 mm / min. The hardness of the samples is expressed in Gram-force (Gf) and can be measured using a texture analyzer such as the TAXT Plus Texture Analyzer. For a stick of a composition intended to be applied to the lips, the minimum value obtained is greater than 30 Gf. According to a particular and preferred method, the hardness of the sticks according to the invention will range from 40 to 120 Gf.

[0029] A person skilled in the art will be able to adapt the stick-forming process based on the composition of the invention according to its hardness. In particular, when the hardness is less than 100gf, shaping the stick by a so-called "back-fill" process, consisting of pouring and cooling the composition directly into the pack mechanism, will be preferred to shaping by pouring and cooling the composition in a mold and then inserting the stick into the mechanism.

[0030] The compositions of the invention have good gloss and non-transfer properties.

[0031] These properties can be evaluated using different methods.

[0032] Brilliance

[0033] The gloss property can, for example, be evaluated visually or by measurement with a gloss meter. For a visual evaluation, a photograph can be taken of lips made up with the composition of the invention, and the gloss of the deposited film can be visually assessed. The compositions of the invention will have a glossy to very glossy, or even vinyl-like, gloss film.

[0034] Non-transfer

[0035] The non-transfer properties of the compositions of the invention can be evaluated by touching the film with a finger or by kissing the hand or by applying a cloth or a glass slide to the lips (evaluation of non-transfer under pressure), and the presence or absence of color transferred onto the support (hand, finger, cloth, glass...) is observed; compositions with good resistance to pressure are thus sought. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0036] A first object therefore relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least:

[0037] - a silicone polymer selected from silicone-polyurethane polymers and the silicone-acrylate polymers,

[0038] - a lipophilic polycondensate of polyamide type,

[0039] - a non-volatile silicone oil, phenylated or non-phenylated,

[0040] - a volatile oil, and

[0041] - possibly in addition at least one coloring matter. Silicone polymer

[0042] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one silicone polymer selected from silicone-polyurethane polymers and silicone-acrylate polymers.

[0043] The silicone polymer according to the invention can be present in a content ranging from 0.5 to 25% by weight of active polymer (dry matter), preferably from 1 to 20% by weight, even better from 1.5 to 15% by weight of active polymer relative to the total weight of the composition. Silicone-polyurethane polymer

[0044] In one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, as a silicone polymer, at least one silicone-polyurethane polymer.

[0045] By “silicone-polyurethane polymer”, we mean here any polymer comprising organosiloxane motifs and methane bonds.

[0046] According to a particular mode, the silicone-polyurethane polymer used in the context of the invention is the reaction product of a polyorganosiloxane functionalized by hydroxyl groups, preferably comprising at least two hydroxyl groups, with a diisocyanate compound.

[0047] Such a polyorganosiloxane functionalized by hydroxyl groups corresponds to the formula (I)

[0048] wherein R is chosen independently at each occurrence from a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group, and optionally substituted hydrocarbon groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and in particular from a substituted or unsubstituted alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, aryl, aryl-alkyl or alkyl-aryl group; preferably, R is chosen from linear, cyclic or branched C1-C6 alkyl or alkenyl groups, optionally substituted, including, without limitation, C1-C8 methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, t-butyl, amyl, hexyl, cyclohexyl, vinyl, allyl or aryl groups, aryl-alkyl or alkyl-aryl, including, without limitation, phenyl, benzyl, tolyl, xylyl,

[0049] wherein each of the above R groups can be optionally substituted by one or more heteroatoms, including oxygen, nitrogen, phosphorus and a halogen, in particular fluorine, as illustrated by fluoroalkyl (perfluoroalkyl) groups such as mono-, di- and trifluoromethyl, perfluorophenyl, and C1-C6 substituted amino alkyl groups, including those corresponding to the formula -(CH2)i 6-NRN2 and -(CH2)i-6-NRn-(CH2)i 6-NRN2 where Rn is typically hydrogen, but can also be a methyl, ethyl, propyl, and analogous group; polyether groups, including, without limitation, polyethylene oxide groups of the formula -(CH2CH2O)n-, propylene oxide groups of the formula -(CH(CH3)CH2O)n- and combinations thereof; and amine oxide, phosphate, hydroxyl, ester and / or carboxylate, or analogous, functional groups; or

[0050] in which R may comprise an additional group - L-OH;

[0051] wherein L represents either a bond or a bonding group; preferably L is a bonding group selected from divalent hydrocarbons having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, including a divalent alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, aryl, alkyl-aryl or aryl-alkyl group, such as for example an alkyl group in Cl-CIO, including, without limitation, divalent groups of formula -(CH2)m0-, preferably -(CH2)i_6-, and more preferably, L is -CH2CH2CH2-;

[0052] and where n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50.

[0053] Preferably, R represents at least one or more occurrences of a methyl group; more preferably, R represents a methyl group in all or almost all occurrences, meaning that R represents a methyl group in more than 90% of occurrences, in particular in more than 95% of occurrences, or even in more than 98% of occurrences. According to one embodiment of the invention, the polyorganosiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups comprises a polymethylsiloxane having, for example, the structure of formula la: ÇH, (there) HO 1—.Si.—o-~Si O Si--L---OH CH3 L CHj

[0054] in which L and n are such as defined previously.

[0055] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, polyorganosiloxane functionalized by hydroxyl groups includes a polymethylsiloxane corresponding for example to the structure of formula Ib:

[0056] where n is as defined above.

[0057] The diisocyanate may in particular conform to the formula O=C=NR'-N=C=O, where R1 is a divalent hydrocarbon group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, including optionally 20 substituted by one or more heteroatoms, and in particular R1 may be selected from a linear, cyclic, or branched alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, aryl, alkyl-aryl, or arylalkyl group, optionally substituted, including, without limitation:

[0058] i. a formula group: ripe

[0059]

[0060] ii. a formula group: iii. a group of formulas:

[0061] iv. a formula group:

[0062] v. a group of formulas:

[0063] and combinations thereof.

[0064] The diisocyanates that may be suitable within the scope of the invention include, without limitation, toluene diisocyanate; methylene diphenyl diisocyanate, including 2,2'-MDI, 2,4'-MDI and 4,4'-MDI; 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate; isophorone diisocyanate; dicyclohexylmethane-4,4' diisocyanate; xylene diisocyanate; cyclohexane diisocyanate; 3,3'-dimethyl-4,4'-diphenylmethane diisocyanate; p-phenylene diisocyanate; m-phenylene diisocyanate; 4,4'-isopropylidene dicyclohexyl isocyanate; and their equivalents.

[0065] In a preferred embodiment, the diisocyanate is chosen from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexylmethane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations.

[0066] In one embodiment, the diisocyanate comprises or consists essentially of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate.

[0067] In another embodiment, the diisocyanate comprises or essentially consists of isophorone diisocyanate.

[0068] In yet another embodiment, the diisocyanate comprises or consists essentially of dicyclohexylmethane 4,4'-diisocyanate, this embodiment being particularly preferred.

[0069] Thus, according to a particular mode, the silicone-polyurethane polymer is the reaction product

[0070] - of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized by hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the formula structure (Ib)

[0071] in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50,

[0072] - with a diisocyanate compound, in particular selected from the group consisting of the 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexylmethane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations.

[0073] According to a preferred embodiment, the silicone-polyurethane polymer used in the context of the invention comprises recurring units derived from polyorganosiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups and diisocyanate in the form of an alternating copolymer AB, where unit A has the structure of formula II: H

[0074] in which R, L and n are defined as previously in relation to the formula I, a and Ib, and where unit B has the structure of formula III: OO dW He P è il BHH £ —-N—R'—N-- 5

[0075] where RI is as defined above, and in which units A and B are arranged according to a linear, branched or cyclic configuration, and preferably linear.

[0076] The polymer may also comprise branching or grafting points in the polyorganosiloxane in which one or more R groups in formula I or II are a group IV such as: (IV)

[0077] in which R is as defined for formula I, and R* may represent a -LO- group further coupling the side chain of a unit B of formula III, which in turn may be further coupled to the unit A of formula II, and so on, or R* may represent -L-OH, an R group as defined above, or a terminal group.

[0078] When the polyorganosiloxane has branching or grafting points of this type, they may be present as T or Q type grafts, where T indicates that only one R group on the Si atom is a polyorganosiloxane chain, as shown above, and Q indicates that both R groups are polyorganosiloxanes.

[0079] These types of polyorganosiloxane compounds are called silicone-polyurethane polymer copolymer and T resin or Q resin, branched or grafted.

[0080] Silicone-polyurethane polymers can also be prepared from functionalized isocyanate prepolymers. For example, an isocyanate prepolymer can be a difunctional or multifunctional polyorganosiloxane isocyanate, such as the polyorganosiloxane diisocyanate shown below in formula V: O [ R ] RO HH । il B II , OCR*—R1—N—C—O—L—^-Ss-—-0--81--1-0--0—N'—"R—NCO it 11 X

[0081] in which R, R1 and L are as defined above, and where x is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50.

[0082] The prepolymer can also be multifunctional by introducing additional isocyanate groups bearing one or more R groups. The functionalized isocyanate prepolymer is reacted with a polyorganosiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups to obtain a compound of formula I or a multifunctional analog thereof.

[0083] The prepolymer according to formula V generally has a molecular weight ranging from 4000 to approximately 15,000 Daltons. The prepolymer according to formulas I, Ia, Ib and Ib typically has a molecular weight ranging from 250 to approximately 15,000 Daltons.

[0084] In one embodiment of the invention, the silicone-polyurethane polymer is free or essentially free of polyalkylene glycol subunits, in particular polyethylene glycol (PEG) or polypropylene glycol (PPG).

[0085] By "essentially free of", it is meant that the polymer comprises less than about 1% by weight, preferably less than about 0.5% by weight, and more preferably less than about 0.1% by weight of polyalkylene glycol subunits.

[0086] In a preferred embodiment, the silicone-polyurethane polymer used in the cosmetic compositions of the invention is a linear polymer comprising the reaction product of formula Ib with a diisocyanate selected from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexylmethane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations.

[0087] Such a silicone-polyurethane polymer is for example available from Siltech Corporation in the form of a premix in isododecane, under the trade reference SILMER UR 5050 (45% polymer dry matter in isododecane).

[0088] According to another embodiment, a silicone-polyurethane polymer is used in the form of a premix in a hemisqualane.

[0089] According to another embodiment, a silicone-polyurethane polymer is used in the form of a premix in a C9-C16 linear alkane or a mixture of C9-C16 linear alkanes, preferably a mixture of n-nonane and n-dodecane (C9-C12, VEGELIGHT SILK) or a mixture of n-undecane and n-tridecane (C11-C13, CETIOL ULTIMATE).

[0090] According to a particular mode, the silicone-polyurethane polymer according to the invention shall be present in the composition of the invention in a content ranging from 1 to 25% by weight of active polymer (dry matter), preferably from 2 to 20% by weight of active polymer, preferably still from 5 to 18% by weight of active polymer, preferably still from 10 to 16% by weight of active polymer relative to the total weight of the composition. silicone-acrylate polymer

[0091] In another embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, as a silicone polymer, at least one silicone-acrylate polymer.

[0092] The “silicone-acrylate polymers” or “silicone acrylate polymers” can be selected from silicone acrylate polymers with or without a dendrimer motif.

[0093] Carbosiloxane dendrimer-patterned vinyl polymer (dendrimer-patterned silicone acrylate polymer)

[0094] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises, as a silicone polymer, a silicone acrylate polymer with a dendrimer motif, in particular a vinyl polymer with a carbosiloxane dendrimer motif.

[0095] The vinyl polymer notably has a backbone and at least one side chain, which includes a carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif having a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure, such as those described in Dow Chemical's applications W003 / 045337 and EP 963 751.

[0096] The term "carbosiloxane dendrimer structure" in the context of the present invention represents a molecular structure possessing branched groups having high molecular weights, said structure having high regularity in the radial direction from the linkage to the backbone. Such dendrimer structures carbosiloxane is described as a highly branched siloxane-silylalkylene copolymer in Japanese patent application JP 9-171 154.

[0097] According to a preferred embodiment, a vinyl polymer suitable for the invention may be one of the polymers described in the examples of application EP 0 963 751.

[0098] According to a preferred embodiment, a vinyl polymer grafted with a carbosiloxane dendrimer can be obtained from the polymerization of:

[0099] (A) from 0 to 99.9 part(s) by weight of one or more acrylate monomer(s) or methacrylate and

[0100] (B) from 100 to 0.1 part(s) by weight of an acrylate or methacrylate monomer of a dendrimer carbosiloxane tri[tri(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl dimethylsiloxy]silylpropyl.

[0101] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, a vinyl polymer having at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif comprises a tri[tri(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl dimethylsiloxy]silylpropyl carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif corresponding to one of the formulas

[0103] According to a preferred embodiment, a vinyl polymer having at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif used in the invention comprises at least one butyl acrylate monomer.

[0104] According to a preferred embodiment, a grafted vinyl polymer as defined in the present invention can be conveyed in an oil or a mixture of oil(s), preferably volatile in particular, chosen from silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils and their mixtures.

[0105] According to another particular embodiment, a silicone oil suitable for the invention may be dimethicone.

[0106] According to another particular embodiment, a hydrocarbon oil suitable for the invention may be isododecane.

[0107] Preferably, the vinyl polymer grafted with at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif usable in a composition of the invention is a acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer, INCI name: ACRYLATES / POLYTRIMETHYL SILOXYMETHACRYLATE COPOLYMER, in particular that marketed in isododecane under the name DOWSIL™ FA 4004 ID Silicone Acrylate by Dow Chemical (40% polymer in 60% isododecane) or that marketed in dimethicone under the name DOWSIL™ FA 4003 ID Silicone Acrylate by Dow Chemical (40% polymer in 60% dimethicone 2c st).

[0108] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises a vinyl polymer having at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer motif in an active material (dry matter) content of 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably between 1 and 5% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

[0109] Silicone acrylate polymer (without dendrimer motif)

[0110] According to another embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises, as a silicone polymer, a silicone acrylate polymer which does not comprise a dendrimer motif.

[0111] This silicone acrylate polymer is a copolymer comprising (meth)acrylic groups and polydimethylsiloxane groups.

[0112] According to the present invention, "copolymer comprising (meth)acrylic groups and polydimethylsiloxane groups" means a copolymer obtained from (a) one or more (meth)acrylic acid monomers or meth)acrylic acid ester and (b) one or more polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) chains.

[0113] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the silicone acrylate copolymer comprises at least one group selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, methyl, ethyl, stearyl, butyl, ethyl-2-hexyl acrylates or methacrylates, and mixtures thereof.

[0114] The copolymers used in the composition of the invention are generally obtained according to the usual methods of polymerization and grafting, for example by radical polymerization (A) of a PDMS comprising at least one polymerizable radical group (for example on one or both ends of the chain) and (B) of at least one carboxylic monomer, as described for example in documents US-A-5,061,481 and US-A-5,219,560. The copolymers obtained generally have a molecular weight ranging from about 3000 to 200,000 and preferably from about 5000 to 100,000. The copolymer used in the composition of the invention can be in the form as such or dispersed in a solvent such as lower alcohols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as isopropyl alcohol, or oils such as volatile silicone oils (e.g. methyl trimethicone) or hydrocarbon oils (e.g. isododecanes).

[0115] Examples include polydimethylsiloxane-grafted acrylic acid-stearyl acrylate copolymers, polydimethylsiloxane-grafted stearyl methacrylate copolymers, polydimethylsiloxane-grafted acrylic acid-stearyl methacrylate copolymers, and polydimethylsiloxane-grafted methyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, ethyl-2-hexyl acrylate, and stearyl methacrylate copolymers, such as the copolymers marketed by SHIN-ETSU under the names KP-561® (INCI name: ACRYLATES / STEARYL ACRYLATE / DIMETHICONE METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER) or KP-541® (INCI name: ACRYLATES / DIMETHICONE AND ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL).

[0116] According to a particular and preferred method, copolymers of polydimethylsiloxane and one or more monomers selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and their esters are used, such as the products marketed by Shin Etsu under the name KP-550® and INCI name ACRYLATES / DIMETHICONE COPOLYMER AND ISODODECANE; or KP-549® and KP-579® with INCI name ACRYLATES / DIMETHICONE COPOLYMER AND METHYL TRIMETHICONE. Lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type

[0117] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, in particular as a fat-phase gelling polymer.

[0118] Polyamide-type polycondensates can form a three-dimensional network through hydrogen bonding interactions, in which lipophilic oils have an affinity for acidic dimer chains. When applied to the surface of the skin and / or lips, they form a highly structured network resistant to external stresses (contact) and which quickly reforms after shearing, while remaining comfortable. Their presence in the oil phase thus gives the composition of the invention significantly improved adhesion when applied as a film to the surface of the skin and / or lips.

[0119] For the purposes of this invention, "polycondensate" means a polymer obtained by polycondensation, namely by chemical reaction between monomers having different functional groups, chosen in particular from acid, alcohol and amine functions.

[0120] For the purposes of this invention, "polymer" means a compound having at least 2 repeating motifs, preferably at least 3 repeating motifs and even better 10 repeating motifs.

[0121] In the rest of the description, the terms "polyamide polymer" or "polyamide polycondensate" or "lipophilic polyamide polycondensate" or "polyamide-type lipophilic polycondensate" or "polyamide-type lipophilic gelling polymer" are used interchangeably.

[0122] The polyamide-type polycondensate usable in the composition of the invention is preferably chosen from ester-terminated polyamides, tertiary amide-terminated polyamides, polyalkyleneoxy-terminated polyamides, ester-terminated poly(ester-amides), and mixtures thereof.

[0123] In the context of the invention, the composition according to the invention advantageously comprises at least one ester-terminated polyamide and / or one ester-terminated poly(ester-amides).

[0124] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type is an ester-terminated polyamide obtained by the condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a linoleic acid dimer (also called dilinoleic acid), onto ethylenediamine, the remaining acidic end groups being esterified by cetyl alcohol (C16), stearyl alcohol (C18), or a mixture thereof. The copolymer thus obtained has the INCI name: ETHYLENEDIAMINE / STEARYL DIMER DILINOLEATE COPOLYMER. It is notably sold by ARIZONA CHEMICAL under the trade names UNICLEAR 80 and UNICLEAR 100 VG, respectively in the form of an 80% (active ingredient) gel in a mineral oil and a 100% (active ingredient) gel.

[0125] These mixtures are also sold by CRODA under the trade name OLEOCRAFT LP-IO-PA-(MV), respectively at 99.7% (active ingredient) with a preservative. They have a softening point of 88°C to 94°C. Their average molecular weight is preferably 6000, and even more preferably 4000.

[0126] According to another particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type is a poly (ester-amide) with an ester termination obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid (also called hydrogenated dilinoleic acid) and neopentyl glycol, on ethylene diamine; the remaining acid terminations being esterified by stearyl alcohol (Cl8).

[0127] The copolymer thus obtained is a dimeric copolymer ethylenediamine bis-stearyl ethylenediamine / neopentylglycol / stearyl dibenzoate, having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8.

[0128] The copolymer with INCI name POLYAMIDE-8 is, for example, marketed under the name OLEOCRAFT LP-20 by the company CRODA.

[0129] In general, polymers as described below are in the form of polymer mixtures, these mixtures may also contain a synthesis product corresponding to a diester.

[0130] A mixture of lipophilic gelling agents among those described above is, for example, a mixture of ester-terminated poly(ester-amides) and polyamides with a termination polyalkyleneoxy with molecular weights approximately between 4,500 and 30,000 Daltons (Da).

[0131] According to a particular mode, the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type used according to the invention is present in the composition in an amount of active material ranging from 1 to 35% by weight, better from 2 to 25% relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0132] According to a particular mode, in particular in the case of a liquid composition according to the invention, the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type used according to the invention is present in the composition in an amount of active material ranging from 2 to 25% by weight, in particular from 3 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0133] According to another particular mode, in particular in the case of a solid composition according to the invention, the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type used according to the invention is present in the composition in an amount of active material ranging from 5% to 35% by weight, preferably from 8% to 30% by weight, better from 10% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Oily phase

[0134] The cosmetic composition of the invention comprises a fatty or oily phase.

[0135] The term "oily phase" means an oil or a mixture of oils.

[0136] For the purposes of this invention, "oil" means a fatty substance, insoluble in water, liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure.

[0137] Non-volatile silicone oil, phenylated or non-phenylated

[0138] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one silicone non-volatile oil, selected from phenylated silicone non-volatile oils, non-phenylated silicone non-volatile oils and mixtures thereof.

[0139] The non-volatile silicone oils usable in the composition according to the invention can be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising at least one alkyl or alkoxy group, in C2-24, during and / or at the end of the silicone chain.

[0140] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one phenylated silicone oil. The phenylated silicone oil may be selected from phenylated silicone oils comprising a dimethicone fragment, phenylated silicone oils not comprising a dimethicone fragment, and mixtures thereof.

[0141] The term "phenylated silicone oil" according to the invention means an organopolysiloxane substituted by at least one phenyl group. The phenylated silicone oil is in particular selected from the group consisting of phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane and mixtures thereof.

[0142] According to a particular mode, the composition comprises at least one phenylated silicone non-volatile oil comprising at least one dimethicone fragment.

[0143] By "dimethicone fragment" is meant a divalent siloxane group, in which the silicone atom bears two methyl radicals, said group not being localized at one or both ends of the molecule.

[0144] Such an oil can be represented by the following formula:

[0145] -(Si(CH3)2-O)-

[0146] Preferably, said oil does not comprise a C2-C3 oxide alkene group or a glycerol group.

[0147] Examples of phenylated silicone non-volatile oils comprising a dimethicone fragment include, in particular, oils with the following INCI names: Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone, Diphenyl Dimethicone, Tetramethyl Tetraphenyl Trisiloxane and mixtures thereof, preferably Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone. Examples include diphenyl dimethicone sold under the names KF-54 HV from Shin Etsu and SilShine 150 from Momentive, and Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone marketed under the name Belsil PDM 1000 from Wacker Chemie AG.

[0148] Thus, according to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention comprises at least one phenylated silicone oil of formula (VI)

[0149] in which

[0150] Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OSiMe3

[0151] y varies between 1 and 1000, and

[0152] z varies between 1 and 1000.

[0153] For example, Belsils PDM20, PDM100 and PDM1000 from Wacker can be used, and in particular trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone, notably sold under the name BELSIL PDM 1000 marketed by the Wacker company.

[0154] The composition may further include other additional non-volatile silicone oils selected from phenylated silicone oils not comprising dimethicone fragments, non-phenylated silicone oils and mixtures thereof.

[0155] Examples of phenylated silicone non-volatile oils not containing a dimethicone fragment include compounds with the following INCI names: Phenyltrimethicone, Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone, Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxanes, and mixtures thereof. An example is the oil marketed under the designations KF50, KF53, K54, and KF56 from Shin Etsu, preferably the reference KF56 with the INCI name dipenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, whose formula is as follows:

[0156] We can also mention Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane sold under the name PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic Fluid by Dow Corning and phenyl trimethicone sold under the name Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid by Dow Corning.

[0157] According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention shall comprise a phenylated silicone oil comprising a dimethicone group and a phenylated silicone oil not comprising a dimethicone group.

[0158] As an association of phenylated silicone oils, one can advantageously cite the association trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone, such as that sold under the name BELSIL PDM 1000 marketed by the company Wacker, and Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone, such as that sold under the name KF-56A by Shin Etsu Silicones.

[0159] According to another particular mode, the composition of the invention shall comprise a non-phenylated silicone oil, as a non-volatile silicone oil.

[0160] Examples of non-phenylated silicone non-volatile oils include polydimethylsiloxanes (INCI name: dimethicone) and alkyl dimethicones preferably comprising at least one alkyl group in the C2-C24 position, such as dimethicone, cetyl dimethicone, stearyl dimethicone, and mixtures thereof. Examples include dimethicones with viscosities ranging from 500 cSt to 1000 cSt, such as those marketed under the names MIRASIL DM500 (dimethicone with a viscosity of 500 cSt) and KF-96 A 1000 cSt (dimethicone with a viscosity of 1000 cSt).

[0161] A person skilled in the art will thus be able to determine, based on the viscosity of non-volatile silicone oils, their refractive index at 25°C (generally greater than 1.40) and their compatibility with the other ingredients of the composition of the invention, the combinations allowing to obtain the best gloss and non-transfer properties, as sought in the present invention.

[0162] According to a particular method, the total content of silicone oil(s), phenylated or non-phenylated, in particular phenylated silicone oils, in the composition of the invention will in particular range from 10 to 50% by weight, in particular from 10 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Glossy, viscous oils

[0163] The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more high molecular weight non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, in particular ester oils selected notably from:

[0164] - esters of aromatic acids and alcohols comprising 4 to 22 atoms; examples include including tridecylle trimellilate (Liponate TDTM);

[0165] - hydroxylated esters, preferably having a total number of carbons ranging from 35 to 70, such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl isostearate 10 (S Face IS 1005p), Polyglyceryl-10 Pentaisostearate, Polyglyceryl 10 Nonaisostearate, Isostearyl Lactate, Octyldodecyl Hydroxystearate, Diisostearyl Malate, Glycerin Stearate; Diethylene Glycol Diisononanoate;

[0166] - oligomeric polyester dimers obtained by reaction between a fatty alcohol and a dimeric fatty acid; examples include dimer dilinoleate esters, such as the following products:

[0167] - polyglyceryl-2 isostearate / dilinoleate dimer copolymer (Hailucent ISDA of Estenity);

[0168] - dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate (e.g. Lusplan™),

[0169] - Octyldodecanol And Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate marketed under the name VISCOPLAST 25,000 SHINE

[0170] - Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer marketed under the name VISCOPLAST 14436H

[0171] - Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer And C15-19 Alkane And Coco-Caprylate / Caprate marketed under the name VISCOPLAST WR-2 1618

[0172] - Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oils And Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate marketed under the name VISCOPLAST 30,000 SHINE,

[0173] - and their mixtures,

[0174] - esters of amino acid derivatives; one example is Di(phytosteryl) octyldodecyl)N-Lauroyl-L-glutamate (e.g. Eldew®);

[0175] - rosine esters, such as rosinate oil with INCI name: METHYL HYDROGENATED ROSINATE marketed under the name FLORALYN;

[0176] - vegetable oils comprising triglycerides and esters, such as unsaponifiable sunflower oil, castor oil and their mixtures,

[0177] - and their mixtures. volatile oil

[0178] The composition according to the invention further comprises at least one volatile oil, in particular at least one hydrocarbon volatile oil.

[0179] By "volatile oil" according to the present invention, we mean an oil which has lost more than 20% by mass of its mass at 15 minutes, more than 40% by mass of its mass at 30 minutes and more than 70% by mass of its mass at 60 minutes, according to the following protocol:

[0180] 20 mg of the oil to be studied is weighed onto a 5 cm x 5 cm PMMA plate at using a micropipette and a precision balance.

[0181] This material is spread with a finger over the entire plate. The plate is then placed in a ventilated chamber with a temperature control of 25°C and 50% humidity. The test is performed three times for each material. The mass loss during drying is measured after 15 minutes, 30 minutes, and 60 minutes. The mass loss is expressed according to the following calculation:

[0182] [Math.l] % - mass slope ss —-----— x 190 with mtx corresponding to the remaining mass at the measured time (tl5min, t30min or tô0min) and mt0 corresponding to the mass initially applied.

[0183] The volatile oil or oils are in particular chosen from silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0184] By "siliconized oil", according to the invention, means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0185] By "hydrocarbon oil", according to the invention, means an oil formed essentially, or even made up of, carbon and hydrogen atoms and which may include at least one oxygen and / or nitrogen atom, and free from Si, F and P atoms.

[0186] Examples of volatile silicone oils include linear or cyclic volatile silicone oils and their mixtures.

[0187] The volatile oil may be selected from among silicone oils such as dimethicones (polydimethylsiloxanes) with viscosities ranging from 0.5 to 6 cSt, alkyl trisiloxanes, and cyclomethicones. Examples include octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-Heptamethyl-3-(trimethylsilyloxy)trisiloxane (also known as methyl trimethicone), decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof, in particular dimethicones with viscosities ranging from 0.5 to 6 cSt, methyl trimethicone and mixtures thereof.

[0188] According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil.

[0189] Examples of volatile hydrocarbon oils include: - C8-Ci6 branched alkanes, - linear C9-C14 alkanes, - esters, possibly hydroxylated, in particular C8-C16 branched esters, - the ethers, - dialkoxymethane, - carbonates, - and their mixtures.

[0190] As C8-Ci6 branched alkanes, we can mention in particular the C8-Ci6 iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names ISOPAR® or PERMETYL®.

[0191] Examples of linear C9-C14 alkanes include n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14), and mixtures thereof.

[0192] The linear volatile alkane may be used alone or preferably a mixture of at least two distinct linear volatile alkanes may be used, differing from each other by a number of carbon n of at least 1, in particular differing from each other by a number of carbon of 1 or 2.

[0193] More particularly, a suitable linear volatile alkane for the invention can be implemented in the form of an n-undecane / n-tridecane (Cn / Cu) mixture, an n-nonane and n-dodecane (C9 / C12) mixture or an n-dodecane and n-tetradecane (Ci2 / C14) mixture.

[0194] Examples include alkanes having hydrocarbon chains in:

[0195] - C9-C14, C10-C14, Cl1-C13 such as a mixture of undecane and tridecane, marketed by BASF Care Creations under the name Cetiol® Ultimate,

[0196] - C9-C12, C12-C14, such as those marketed by BIOSYNTHIS under the name VEGELIGHT® SILK (INCI name C9-12 ALKANE), VEGELIGHT® 1214LC,

[0197] - n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), notably sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL® 12-97 and PARAFOL® 14-97, and

[0198] - their mixtures.

[0199] As optionally hydroxylated esters, one may mention in particular esters comprising preferably between 5 and 12 carbon atoms in total, preferably monoesters, and in particular esters of monoalcohol in C2-C6 and of monocarboxylic acid in C3-C6, optionally hydroxylated, comprising between 5 and 11 carbon atoms in total, for example such as isopropyl hexanoate or ethyl lactate.

[0200] As C8-Ci6 branched esters, one can cite in particular isohexyl neopentanoate.

[0201] Examples of ethers, in particular monoethers, include ethers having from 4 to 10 carbon atoms in total, for example such as dipentylether.

[0202] Examples of dialkoxymethane include dialkoxymethanes with a total of 3 to 11 carbon atoms, such as dimethoxymethane, diethoxymethane, or dibutoxymethane. Such compounds are marketed, in particular, under the names methylal, ethylal, and butylal, respectively, by the company Lambiotte.

[0203] Examples of carbonates include carbonates having from 3 to 11 carbon atoms in total, for example such as dimethyl carbonate, diethyl carbonate, dipropyl carbonate, or dipentyl carbonate.

[0204] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises at least one hydrocarbon volatile oil selected from the group consisting of C8-C16 branched alkanes, C9-C14 linear alkanes, and mixtures thereof, preferably C9-C14 linear alkanes.

[0205] The total content of volatile hydrocarbon oils in the composition of the invention will generally range from 5% to 40% by weight, preferably from 15% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the invention. Coloring agents

[0206] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, in particular for makeup compositions, the composition comprises at least one coloring material.

[0207] For the purposes of this invention, "colouring material" means a compound capable of producing a coloured optical effect when formulated in sufficient quantity in a suitable cosmetic medium.

[0208] A colouring material can be chosen from organic or inorganic colouring materials, optical effect materials such as mother-of-pearl, and mixtures thereof, soluble or insoluble in the oily phase of the invention.

[0209] According to a particular method, the colouring material(s) are chosen in particular from pigments, mother-of-pearl, liposoluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.

[0210] Said coloring materials may or may not be treated with a lipophilic treatment agent. The lipophilic treatment agent is notably chosen from the group consisting of metallic soaps, N-acylated amino acids or their salts; the lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; diisostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes, polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids, and their mixtures, in particular N-acylated amino acids or their salts.

[0211] These colouring materials, particularly when they are pigments, are generally pre-dispersed in a dispersing agent before being incorporated into the composition.

[0212] The term "pigments" means white or colored particles, mineral (inorganic) or organic, insoluble in aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting deposit. Examples include mineral pigments, organic pigments, and composite pigments (i.e., pigments based on mineral and / or organic materials).

[0213] Examples of "mineral pigments" include titanium dioxide (rutile or anatase), possibly surface-treated; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides; manganese violet; ultramarine blue; chromium oxide; hydrated chromium oxide; and ferric blue.

[0214] Examples of lip compositions include titanium dioxide; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides and manganese violet.

[0215] Among the "organic pigments", examples include D&C Red No. 19; D&C Red No. 9; D&C Red No. 22; D&C Red No. 21; D&C Red No. 28; D&C Yellow No. 6; D&C Orange No. 4; D&C Orange No. 5; D&C Red No. 27; D&C Red No. 13; D&C Red No. 7; D&C Red No. 6; D&C Yellow No. 5; D&C Red No. 36; D&C Red No. 33; D&C Orange No. 10; D&C Yellow No. 6; D&C Red No. 30; D&C Red No. 3; D&C Blue 1; carbon black and lacquers.

[0216] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises at least pigments selected from iron oxides, organic dyes and pigments, and mixtures thereof.

[0217] In particular, the colouring material(s) are present in the composition in a content ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0218] According to a particular method, the total content of colouring materials shall range from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. Alkylcellulose

[0219] According to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises an alkylcellulose.

[0220] Among the alkylcelluloses, methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses, and their mixtures, in particular ethylcelluloses, may be mentioned.

[0221] According to one embodiment, the composition comprises ethylcellulose as alkylcellulose.

[0222] The terms "ethylcellulose film-forming polymer", "ethylcellulose polymer" or "ethylcellulose" will be used interchangeably throughout the rest of the description.

[0223] The term “film-forming polymer” means a polymer capable of forming, either alone or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a continuous and adherent film on a substrate, in particular on the skin and / or lips.

[0224] By "ethylcellulose polymer" according to the invention, a cellulose derivative is meant in which some of the hydroxyl groups on the repeated glucose motifs are converted into ethyl ether groups.

[0225] Ethylcellulose is an ethyl ether of cellulose, comprising a chain made up of [3-anhydroglucose] units linked together by acetal bonds. Each anhydroglucose unit has three hydroxyl groups that can be substituted by ethoxy groups. The number of ethyl ether groups can vary and is characterized by the percentage of ethoxylated substitution. Ethoxylated substitution (also called "ethyl ether content") is generally from 10 to 55%. In a particular embodiment, the ethylcellulose polymers used in a cosmetic composition according to the invention are preferably polymers having a degree of ethoxy substitution ranging from 2.5 to 2.6 per anhydroglucose unit, in other words, comprising an ethoxy content ranging from 44% to 55%.

[0226] Reference may be made in particular to the ethylcellulose polymer described in Dow Chemical's application WO2018057381.

[0227] Examples include ethylcellulose polymers with the INCI name: ETHYLCELLULOSE, marketed under the following names:

[0228] - ETHOCEL™ references manufactured by DUPONT and distributed by the company CHEMPOINT, including, for example, ETHOCEL™ Standard 4, ETHOCEL™ Standard 7, ETHOCEL™ Standard 7 FP Premium, ETHOCEL™ Standard 10, ETHOCEL™ Standard 20, ETHOCEL™ Standard 45, ETHOCEL™ Standard 100, ETHOCEL™ Standard 100 FP Premium, with an ethoxylated substitution content of 48.0 to 49.5%;

[0229] - the AQUALON™ ETHYLCELLULOSE references of type-K, type-N and type-T, preferably type-N such as N7, N100, available from Ashland, Inc; and

[0230] - ANTARON™ ECO part numbers available from Ashland, Inc.

[0231] This alkylcellulose polymer can be used as is, or pre-solubilized or pre-dispersed in a non-aqueous polar solvent such as those described below, to facilitate its dispersion in the composition. This non-aqueous polar solvent can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0232] According to a first mode, the alkylcellulose polymer can be used as is (in powder form).

[0233] For a formulation in an anhydrous composition according to the invention, the alkylcellulose polymer may advantageously be mixed with at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil selected from liquid fatty alcohols, saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched, in C10-C26, and homogenized, before incorporation into the rest of the composition.

[0234] According to another embodiment, the alkylcellulose polymer is pre-solubilized or pre-dispersed in a non-aqueous polar volatile solvent selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils selected from the group consisting of esters possibly hydroxylated, ethers, dialkoxymethane, carbonates, and mixtures thereof, before being incorporated into the rest of the composition.

[0235] The alkylcellulose content, in particular ethylcellulose, in the composition of the invention will generally range from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15%, more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight of dry (active) matter relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0236] Preferably, a content greater than or equal to 1% or even greater than or equal to 2% by weight of alkylcellulose, preferably ethylcellulose, will be used in relation to the total weight of the composition.

[0237] According to a particular method, the alkylcellulose content, preferably ethylcellulose, shall range from 1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0238] According to an alternative embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention does not comprise alkylcellulose.

[0239] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention does not comprise ethylcellulose. Other ingredients

[0240] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additional ingredient selected from antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, cosmetic actives, fillers, gelling agents such as additional lipophilic gelling agents, and mixtures thereof.

[0241] The term "fillers" means particles of any shape, including platelets, spherical or oblong particles, colorless or white particles, of mineral or organic, natural or synthetic origin, which are insoluble and dispersed in the composition medium. These fillers are used, in particular, to modify the rheology or texture of the composition.

[0242] The fillers may in particular be selected from silicas, micas, of natural or synthetic origin, kaolin, zinc and titanium oxides; calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydroxycarbonate; zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; synthetic polymer powders, such as polyethylene, polyesters, polyamides (for example nylon); polyacrylic or polymethacrylic acid powders, silicone resin powders; mineral powders such as spherical silica; spherical titanium dioxides; glass and ceramic beads; powders of organic materials of natural origin such as corn, wheat, rice starches, crosslinked or not, and mixtures thereof.

[0243] In the case of a solid composition according to the invention, gelling and / or fat phase structuring agents may advantageously be used.

[0244] Advantageously, a person skilled in the art can combine several gelling and / or texturizing agents to improve the texture and / or sensory properties of the composition upon application.

[0245] The term “fat-phase gelling agents” or “lipophilic gelling agents” refers to compounds that modify the rheology of the fat phase by forming a three-dimensional network. These gelling agents may be mineral and / or organic gelling agents.

[0246] The fat-phase structuring agents used according to the invention are in particular solid fats or fats comprising a solid fraction at 25 °C.

[0247] These structuring agents are in particular chosen from fatty esters, fatty alcohols, waxes, pasty fats, and mixtures thereof.

[0248] They will generally have a melting point ranging from 45 to 85°C, in particular from 55 to 80°C.

[0249] The melting point generally determines the temperature at which a fat (fatty substance here) changes from a solid (or frozen) state to a liquid (or soft) state.

[0250] In a particular embodiment, in the case of a solid composition according to the invention, the composition may comprise at least one fat-phase gelling and / or structuring agent distinct from said lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, selected from the group consisting of inorganic lipophilic gelling agents, organic lipophilic gelling agents, fatty alcohols, fatty esters, waxes, pasty fats, and mixtures thereof.

[0251] In the case of a solid composition, such as "inorganic lipophilic gelling agents", modified clays may be cited in particular. Modified clays (also called organomodified clays) are clays treated with compounds selected in particular from quaternary and tertiary amines, preferably quaternary amines.

[0252] The clays are in particular natural or synthetic clays selected from bentonites, especially hectorites and montmorillonites. Preferably, they shall be hectorites. Even more preferably, a hectorite modified with a quaternary alkylammonium chloride is used, said ammonium being substituted by at least one, and preferably at least two alkyl radicals in Cl4-C20, such as the disteardimonium hectorite in which the ammonium comprises two methyls and two stearyls.

[0253] As a preferred modified clay, one can cite in particular a modified hectorite dispersed in an oil, for example the product with INCI name: COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE (and) DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE (and) PROPYLENE CARBONATE marketed under the name BENTONE GEL CCC V MB by the company Elementis.

[0254] Examples of "organic lipophilic gelling agents" usable in a solid composition of the invention include, in particular: - esters of dextrin and fatty acid(s), preferably unbranched, such as palmitate, dextrin myristate, and mixtures thereof, in particular marketed under the trade name UNIFILMA marketed by the company Chiba Flour Milling Co; - glycerol and fatty acid(s) esters, particularly C18-C24, especially glycerol and behenic acid ester (such as the NOMCORT product from KOBO); Polyglyceryl-10 behenate / eicosadioate (marketed for example under the name NOMCORT HK-P); - hydroxystearic acid, such as that marketed under the name CASID HSA; - sorbitan oleate, - glutamides, such as Octyldodecanol and Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide and Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide (AJK OD-2046), from the company Ajinomoto, - associative polymers derived from castor oil, the isophorone diisocyanate-urethane polymer derived from castor oil, - olefin(s) / styrene copolymers, alkyl poly(acrylates), - the following gelling agents with INCI names: Hydrogenated vegetable oil, marketed, for example, under the name DERMOFEEL VISCOLID; Castor Oil / IPDI copolymer, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, marketed, for example, under the name ESTOGEL M; Hydrogenated Castor Oil / Sebacic Acid Copolymer, marketed, for example, under the name ESTOGEL GREEN; Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Hydrogenated C6-20 Polyolefin (and) HDI / Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, marketed, for example, under the name OILKEMIA 5S CC PALM FREE); Sorbitan olivate, marketed, for example, under the name OLIVEM 900, - and their mixtures.

[0255] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises an additional organic lipophilic gelling agent of the hydroxystearic acid type.

[0256] Certain hydrogenated vegetable oils and possibly modified by isostearic acid, in particular hydrogenated rapeseed, soybean, sunflower, jojoba, coconut and castor oils, may also be considered as fat-phase gelling agents.

[0257] Examples of "fatty esters" include Behenyl Behenate, Cetyl Palmitate, Glyceryl Behenate / eicosadioate, Jojoba Esters, Stearyl Behenate, Myristyle Myristate, and mixtures thereof. These compounds generally have a melting point of 65 to 75°C.

[0258] The total fatty ester content will generally range from 1 to 20% by weight, in particular from 2 to 18% and preferably from 3 to 16% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0259] Examples of "fatty alcohols" suitable for the invention include behenyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. These fatty alcohols generally have a melting point ranging from 55°C to 75°C.

[0260] The total fatty alcohol content will generally range from 1 to 20% by weight, in particular from 2 to 18% and preferably from 3 to 16% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0261] For the purposes of this invention, "wax" means a solid compound at 25°C which has a reversible solid / liquid change of state and a melting point above 45°C.

[0262] Examples include vegetable waxes such as sunflower wax, candelilla wax, rice wax; microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, polyethylene waxes, ozokerite, carnauba wax, beeswax, products comprising a mixture of polyethylene and alcohols having 20 to 50 carbon atoms, silicone waxes, C20-C40 alkyl stearates, waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 chains such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified castor oil with a fatty alcohol, maleic anhydride and alpha-olefin copolymers, waxes obtained by metallocene catalysis and lanolin wax, and mixtures thereof.

[0263] The total wax content will generally range from 1 to 20% by weight, in particular from 2 to 18% and preferably from 3 to 16% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0264] "Pasty fats" usable as fat-phase structuring agents are defined as fats with a reversible liquid / solid phase change, exhibiting in the state solid an anisotropic crystalline organization comprising at a temperature of 23°C a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

[0265] Examples include fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives, polyol(s) and diacid dimer esters of fatty acids, or of one of its esters, in particular diol and diacid dimer esters, where appropriate, esterified on their free alcohol(s) or acid(s) function(s) by acid radicals or alcohols, in particular dimer dilinoleate esters; hydrogenated castor oil esters; oligomeric glycerol esters, in particular diglycerol esters, polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, jojoba esters, olive unsaponifiables, shea unsaponifiables; vegetable butters such as murumuru butter, mango butter, shea butter, cocoa butter, cupuaçu butter; and mixtures thereof.

[0266] In the case of a liquid composition according to the invention, it may advantageously be used as additional lipophilic gelling agents in particular modified clays, organic lipophilic gelling agents and mixtures thereof.

[0267] Modified clays (also called organomodified clays) are clays treated with compounds selected in particular from quaternary and tertiary amines, preferably quaternary amines.

[0268] Clays are in particular natural or synthetic clays selected from bentonites, especially hectorites and montmorillonites. Preferably, they shall be hectorites. Even more preferably, a hectorite modified with a quaternary alkylammonium chloride is used, said ammonium being substituted by at least one, and preferably at least two Cl4-C2O alkyl radicals, such as disteardimonium hectorite in which the ammonium comprises two methyls and two stearyls.

[0269] As a preferred modified clay, one can cite in particular a modified hectorite dispersed in an oil, for example the product with INCI name: COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE (and) DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE (and) PROPYLENE CARBONATE marketed under the name BENTONE GEL CCC V MB by the company Elementis.

[0270] The composition according to the invention may also further comprise additional lipophilic polymers or C2-C5 monoalcohols.

[0271] Additional lipophilic polymers may include, in particular: - copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkenes comprising 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as VP / eicosene, VP / hexadecene, VP / styrene copolymers, - Polyolefins, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, and preferably polymers or copolymers of alkenes comprising 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as polybutenes, polyisobutenes, polydecenes, - styrene and indene copolymers, such as the compound with INCI name hydrogenated styrene / methyl styrene / indene copolymer (Regalite RI 100 CG), - sugar esters, in particular sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB), - branched dextrin esters, such as dextrin isostearate, - plant resins, such as candelilla resin, - silicone polymers such as silicone acrylate polymers, polyalkylsilsesquioxanes comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and - their mixtures.

[0272] Other additional lipophilic polymers that can be used in the composition according to the invention include the following products with INCI names: Dextrin isostearate / octyldodecanol (marketed, for example, under the name UNIFILMA HVY), euphorbia cerifera (candellila) wax extract (marketed, for example, under the name Candellila resin E-2), Copemicia cerifera (Camauba) wax (marketed, for example, under the name TOWAX 1B5), polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, IPDI Copolymer (marketed, for example, under the name POLYDERM PPI-DGDIS), polybutene (marketed, for example, under the name POLYBUT 200), triacontanyl PVP (marketed, for example, under the name ANTARON WP-660), dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate (marketed, for example, under the name LUSPLAN DD-DA7), trimethylpentanediol / adipic acid / glycerin crosspolymer (marketed for example under the name WETFILM MB),Shorea Robusta Resin and Octyldodecanol (marketed, for example, under the name KAHLRESIN 6723).

[0273] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention shall comprise at least one C2-C5 monoalcohol, in particular ethanol.

[0274] According to a particular mode, the composition will not include C2-C5 monoalcohols, such as ethanol.

[0275] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least:

[0276] - a silicone polymer selected from silicone-polyurethane polymers and the silicone-acrylate polymers, in particular a silicone-polyurethane polymer, such as a silicone-polyurethane polymer which is the reaction product

[0277] - of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the formula structure (Ib) (Ib)

[0278] in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50,

[0279] - with a diisocyanate compound, in particular selected from the group consisting of the 1,6-Hexamethylene diisocyanate, 4,4'-Dicyclohexylmethane diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations,

[0280] - a lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, in particular a polyamide with ester ending and / or a poly(ester-amide) with an ester ending,

[0281] - a non-volatile silicone oil, phenylated or non-phenylated, in particular an oil non-volatile phenyl-siliconized comprising at least one dimethicone fragment such as a phenyl-siliconized oil of formula (VI) Me | Me..............0' Me L Me ■■If......f Me J (VI) Sî(CH,X

[0282] in which

[0283] - Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OsiMe3,

[0284] - y varies between 1 and 1000, and

[0285] - z varies between 1 and 1000,

[0286] more specifically trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone

[0287] - a volatile oil, preferably a hydrocarbon volatile oil such as an alkane linear in C9-C14, and

[0288] - possibly in addition at least one coloring matter.

[0289] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least:

[0290] - a silicone-polyurethane polymer, such as a silicone-polyurethane polymer which is the reaction product

[0291] - of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the formula structure (Ib) (Ib)

[0292] in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50,

[0293] - with a diisocyanate compound, in particular selected from the group consisting of the 1,6-Hexamethylene diisocyanate, 4,4'-Dicyclohexylmethane diisocyanate, Isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations,

[0294] - an ester-terminated polyamide obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, plus particularly a linoleic acid dimer, on ethylenediamine, the remaining acidic endings being esterified by cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, or their mixture, and having the INCI name: ETHYLENEDIAMINE / STEARYL DIMER DILINOLEATE COPOLYMER,

[0295] - a non-volatile silicone oil, phenylated or non-phenylated, in particular an oil non-volatile phenyl-siliconized comprising at least one dimethicone fragment such that a phenylated silicone oil of formula (VI) Mef Me—Si4"O Me1 (VI) ■ $ i( CH, )

[0296] in which

[0297] - Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OsiMe3,

[0298] - y varies between 1 and 1000, and

[0299] - z varies between 1 and 1000,

[0300] more specifically trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone

[0301] - a volatile oil, preferably a hydrocarbon volatile oil such as a linear C9-C14 alkane, and

[0302] - possibly in addition at least one coloring matter.

[0303] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least:

[0304] - a silicone-polyurethane polymer, such as a silicone-polyurethane polymer which is the reaction product

[0305] - of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized by hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the formula structure (Ib)

[0306]

[0307]

[0308]

[0309] in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50, - with a diisocyanate compound, in particular chosen from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexyl methane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations, - a poly(ester-amide) with an ester ending obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid and neopentyl glycol, on ethylenediamine; the remaining acid endings being esterified by stearyl alcohol, and having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8, - a non-volatile silicone oil, phenylated or non-phenylated, in particular a non-volatile phenylated silicone oil comprising at least one dimethicone fragment such as a phenylated silicone oil of formula (VI) Me Me OR' -i (VI) Me -O—Si- Me

[0310] in which

[0311] - Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OsiMe3,

[0312] - y varies between 1 and 1000, and

[0313] - z varies between 1 and 1000,

[0314] more specifically trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone

[0315] - a volatile oil, preferably a hydrocarbon volatile oil such as a linear C9-C14 alkane, and

[0316] - possibly in addition at least one coloring matter.

[0317] In these different embodiments, the content of each ingredient, relative to the total weight of the composition, will advantageously range from: - 2 to 25% by weight of active material (dry matter) of silicone polymer chosen from silicone-polyurethane polymers and silicone-acrylate polymers, preferably silicone-polyurethane polymer, - 1 to 30% by weight of active ingredient (dry matter) lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, - 10 to 50% by total weight of non-volatile silicone oil(s), - 5 to 40% by total weight of volatile oil(s), - 1 to 20% by total weight of coloring material(s).

[0318] Thus, in a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises: - 2 to 25% by weight of active material (dry matter) of silicone polymer chosen from silicone-polyurethane polymers and silicone-acrylate polymers, preferably silicone-polyurethane polymer, - 1 to 30% by weight of active ingredient (dry matter) lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, - 10 to 50% by total weight of non-volatile silicone oil(s), and / or - 5 to 40% by total weight of volatile oil(s). GALENIQUE

[0319] The composition of the invention is an anhydrous composition.

[0320] In particular, it will be a skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials, in particular a skin composition such as an eyeliner, eyeshadow, foundation, foundation stick, concealer or corrector, blush or cheek color, or a composition for eyelashes such as mascara, or preferably a composition for lips such as a gloss, lip lacquer, lip balm or lipstick stick.

[0321] According to a first mode, it will be a liquid composition.

[0322] In particular, it will then be a liquid composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular a composition for the skin such as an eyeliner, an eyeshadow, a foundation or a concealer or corrector, or a composition for the eyelashes such as a mascara, or preferably a composition for the lips such as a gloss or a lip lacquer.

[0323] According to a second mode, it will be a solid composition.

[0324] Thus, according to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention is a solid composition, in particular in the form of a stick, for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular a solid composition for the skin such as an eyeshadow, a skin stick (in particular a foundation stick, a color corrector, an eyelid stick, an eyebrow pencil or an eye pencil), or preferably a solid composition for the lips such as a lip stick (in particular a lip balm or a lipstick stick).

[0325] The different embodiments of the compositions according to the invention are described above. COSMETIC PROCESS

[0326] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising the application to said keratinous materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips, of a composition as defined above.

[0327] When applied to the skin or lips, the compositions of the invention form a glossy, non-transfer film.

[0328] The present invention will now be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. Percentages are expressed as weight of raw material relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated. EXAMPLES

[0329] Example 1: Evaluation of gloss and non-transfer

[0330] The gloss and non-transfer properties of the compositions described in the examples below were evaluated according to the following protocols. Glossy appearance

[0331] The brilliance of the compositions was evaluated according to the following protocol.

[0332] It consists of applying 3 layers of composition to each lip, and, after 10 min, visually assessing the shine of the composition on the lips.

[0333] They are assigned ratings according to their level of brightness, the categories being determined using the commercial compositions below as references (controls).

[0334] For liquid compositions:

[0335] Very glossy or 'Vinyl': YSL Vinyl Cream Lip Lacquer (Mintel ID: 6589587)

[0336] Glossy: Rouge Dior Forever Liquid transfer-proof liquid lipstick (ID 1131402)

[0337] Satin: Chanel Rouge Allure Spring 2024 Laque Ultrawear Shine Liquid Lip Colour (ID: 11620242)

[0338] Matte: Rouge Dior Forever Liquid transfer-proof matte liquid lipstick (ID: 8574469)

[0339] For solid compositions:

[0340] Very brilliant or 'Vinyl': YSL Candy Glaze lip gloss stick (Mintel ID: 11690232)

[0341] Glossy: Dior Addict Moisturizing Gloss Lipstick (ID: 11718154)

[0342] Satin: Dior Rouge satin finish COUTURE COLOUR LIPSTICK (ID: 11440790)

[0343] Matte: Intense Couture Color Transfer-Proof Lipstick (ID: 11188444) Non-transfer aspect

[0344] In parallel, the compositions were also evaluated on the non-transfer property according to the following protocol.

[0345] It consists of applying 3 layers of composition to each lip, and, after 10 minutes, placing a glass slide on the lips. The transfer of each composition onto the glass slide can then be evaluated.

[0346] The transfer of each composition is evaluated by visual observation of the residual deposit on the glass slide and notations are assigned to them.

[0347] Non-transfer: no transfer

[0348] Low transfer: light transfer

[0349] Transfer: large transfer

[0350] According to the invention, compositions are sought that provide improved non-transfer properties.

[0351] The search is thus conducted according to the invention: - for liquid compositions, compositions that allow for a more satin finish than the Chanel Rouge Allure Spring 2024 Laque Ultrawear Shine Liquid Lip Colour, or even glossy compositions like the Rouge Dior Forever transfer-proof liquid lipstick or very glossy ones like the YSL Vinyl Cream lip lacquer, but which also have an equivalent or even improved 'non-transfer' property compared to the Rouge Dior Forever Liquid transfer-proof matte liquid lipstick (a glossy and non-transfer reference), and - for solid compositions, compositions allowing to obtain a more satiny film than the reference Rouge Dior satin finish COUTURE COLOUR LIPSTICK, or even glossy compositions like the Dior Addict Hydrating Gloss Lipstick or very glossy like the YSL Candy Glaze lip gloss stick, but having in addition an equivalent or even improved 'non-transfer' property compared to the Intense Couture Colour Transfer-Proof Lipstick (non-transfer but matte reference).

[0352] Example 2: Liquid lipsticks according to the invention

[0353] Different liquid lipsticks according to the invention have been formulated respectively:

[0354] Composition 1: with polyamide-type polycondensate, silicone-polyurethane polymer in isododecane, phenylated silicone oil and volatile oil,

[0355] Composition 2: similar to composition 1 but with ethylcellulose,

[0356] Composition 3: similar to composition 2 but without ethanol or pigments,

[0357] Composition 4: similar to composition 1 but with silicone polymer- polyurethane in a silicone oil.

[0358] Unless otherwise stated, percentages are expressed as weight of raw material relative to the final composition.

[0359] [Tables 1] Ingredients (INCI names and trade names) Composition 1

[489] A Polyamide-8 (SP OLEOCRAFT LP-20 MBAL-PA-(MV) MB) 3.15% A Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone (BELSIL PDM 1000) qsplOO A2 Bis-hydroxypropyl dimethicone / SMDI copolymer (45%) in isododecane (55%) (SILMER UR-5050) 25.00% B Pigments 2.45% B C9-12 alkane (VEGELIGHT SILK DEODORIZED) 7.06% C Ethanol 3.15% D Disteardimonium hectorite (15%), propylene carbonate (4%), C9-12 alkane (81%), (VEGELIGHT BENTONE SILK) 22.19%

[0360] [Tables2] Ingredients (INCI names and trade names) Composition 2

[493] Composition 3

[512] Composition 4

[488] A Polyamide-8 (SP OLEOCRAFT LP-20 MB AL-PA-(MV) MB) 3.15% 3.15% 3.15% A Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimeth icon (BELSIL PDM 1000) qsplOO qsplOO qsp 100 A2 Ethylcellulose (ETHOCEL STD 7 PREMIU M) 6.01% 9.09% - A2 Octyldodecanol (RISONOL SP 20 MB) 24.04% 27.26% - B Pigments 2.45% - 2.45% B C9-12 alkane (VEGELIGHT SILK DESOD ORISE) 7.06% 1.89% 7.06% C Ethanol 3.15% - 3.15% c Disteardimonium hectorite (15%), propylene carbonate (4%), C9-12 alkane (81%) (VEGELIGHT BENTONE SI LK) 1.39% 10.84% ​​22.19% D Bis-hydroxypropyl dimethicon e / SMDI copolymer 7.08% MA* 11.25% MA* 9.88% MA* Isododecane 8.67% 13.75% Dimethicone - - 15.12%

[0361] * MA = active ingredients

[0362] Compositions 1 and 4 are prepared according to the following procedure:

[0363] Phase A is heated to 90°C with stirring until a mixture is obtained homogeneous. Then stop heating and let it stir until the mixture returns to room temperature.

[0364] Phase A2 is then added under stirring.

[0365] Phases B and C are then added, followed by D, and the mixture is stirred with a homogenizer of Turrax® type for 1 min at 12,000 rpm.

[0366] Compositions 2 and 3 are prepared according to the following procedure:

[0367] A pre-gel concentrated with 20% ethylcellulose A2 is prepared (ethylcellulose is dispersed in octyldodecanol under stirring at 90°C), and is allowed to cool under stirring.

[0368] Phase A (including the previously prepared phase A2) is heated to 90°C while stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained. Heating is then stopped and the mixture is allowed to continue stirring until it returns to room temperature.

[0369] Phase A2 is then added under stirring.

[0370] Next, phases B, C, then D are added, and the mixture is stirred with a Turrax® type homogenizer for 1 min at 12,000 rpm.

[0371] The compositions obtained are liquid lip products.

[0372] When applied to the lips, these compositions provide long-lasting makeup, evaluated according to the protocol of example 1 as being glossy and non-transferable, with even better gloss performance (reaching ultra-glossy) for compositions 2 and 3.

[0373] These results show that the presence of a silicone-acrylate polymer, combined with polyamide-8, a phenylened silicone oil and a volatile oil, makes it possible to obtain good shine and non-transfer properties of the lip products obtained, with even improved gloss performance in the presence of ethylcellulose (compositions 2 and 3). Example 3#: Comparative Examples

[0374] The effect of combining a silicone-acrylate polymer, polyamide-8, a phenylated silicone oil and a volatile oil (composition 1 according to the invention) was compared to compositions not including polyamide-8, as illustrated in composition 5.

[0375] Thus, composition 5 (comparative) is similar to composition 1 (according to the invention), in which the Oleocraft content has been transferred to the bentone.

[0376] Unless otherwise indicated, percentages are expressed as weight of raw material in relation to the final composition.

[0377] [Tables3] Ingredients (INCI and trade names) Composition 1

[489] (according to the invention) Composition 5

[525] (comparative without Oleocraft) A Polyamide-8 (SP OLEOCRAFT LP-20 MBAL-P A-(MV) MB) 3.15% - A Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone (BELSIL PDM 1000) qsplOO qsplOO A2 Bis-hydroxypropyl dimethicone / SM DI copolymer (45%) in isododecane (55%) (SILMER UR-5050) 25.00% 25% B Pigments 2.45% 2.45% B C9-12 alkane (VEGELIGHT SILK DESODORISE) 7.06% 7.06% C Ethanol 3.15% 3.15% D Disteardimonium hectorite (15%), propylene carbonate (4%), C9-12 alkane (81%) (VEGELIGHT BENTONE SILK) 22.19% 25.34% Shine Glossy Satin No transfer No transfer No transfer

[0378] Composition 5 is prepared according to the following procedure:

[0379] Phase A is heated to 90°C with stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained. Heating is then stopped and the mixture is left to stir until it returns to room temperature.

[0380] Phase A2 is then added under stirring.

[0381] Phases B, C, then D are added, and the mixture is stirred with a Turrax® type homogenizer for 1 min at 12,000 rpm.

[0382] The compositions obtained are liquid lip products.

[0383] When applied to the lips, the compositions provide makeup evaluated, according to the protocol of example 1, as non-transfer for compositions 1 and 5, but only satin for composition 5, while composition 1 provides makeup evaluated as glossy.

[0384] These results therefore show that polyamide 8, in association with a silicone-acrylate polymer, a silicone oil and a volatile oil, makes it possible to obtain the desired gloss and non-transfer properties.

[0385] Example 4: Solid lipsticks according to the invention

[0386] Different solid lipsticks according to the invention have been formulated respectively:

[0387] Compositions 6 and 7: with polyamide-type polycondensate, silicone-polyurethane polymer in isododecane, phenylated silicone oil and volatile oil,

[0388] Composition 8: similar to composition 7 but with non-phenylated silicone oil,

[0389] Compositions 9, 10 and 11: similar to composition 6 but with different silicone-acrylate polymers,

[0390] Compositions 12 and 13: close to composition 6 but with different shiny viscous oils.

[0391] Unless otherwise stated, percentages are expressed as weight of raw material relative to the final composition.

[0392] [Tables4] Ingredients (INCI and trade names) Composition 6

[224] Composition 7

[228] Composition 8

[232] Al Dibutyl alkoyl glutamides (20% total) (and) Octyldode canol (80%) (AJK-OD2046) 10% 10% 10% A2 Polyamide-8 (SP OLEOCRAFT LP-20 M BAL-PA-(MV) MB) 20% 20% 20% A2 Sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB 100) 15 % 15 % 15 % A2 Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimet hicone (BELSIL PDM 1000) qsplOO qsplOO - A2 Dimethicone de viscosité 50 0 est (MIRASIL DM500) - - qsplOO A2 coco-caprylate / caprate (CETIOL C 5C MB) 7,75 % - - A2 Disteardimonium hectorite (1 5%), propylène carbonate (5 %), coco caprylate caprate (8 0%) (BENTONE GEL CCC V M B) 2,5 % 2,5 % 2,5 % B Pigments 6,05 % 6,05 % 6,05 % C C9-12 alcane (VEGELIGHT SILK DESO DORISE) 18,7 % 18,7 % 18,7 % C Bis-hydroxypropyl dimethico ne / SMDI copolymer (45%) d ans isododecane (qs 100) (SILMER UR-5050) 5 % 5 % 5 %

[0393] [Tableaux5] Ingrédients (noms INCI et noms c ommerciaux) Composition 9

[244] Composition 1 0

[245] Composition 1 1

[254] Al Dibutyl alkoyl glutamides (20% au total) (and) Octyldodecanol (80%) (AJK-OD2046) 10% 10% 10% A2 Polyamide-8 (SP OLEOCRAFT LP-20 MBAL-P A-(MV) MB) 20% 20% 20% A2 Sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB 100) 15 % 15 % 15 % A2 Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone (BELSIL PDM 1000) qsplOO qsplOO qsplOO A2 coco-caprylate / caprate (CETIOL C 5C MB) 7,75 % 17,1 % 17,1 % A2 Disteardimonium hectorite (15%), p ropylène carbonate (5%), coco capr ylate caprate (80%) (BENTONE GEL CCC V MB) 2,5 % 2,5 % 2,5 % B Pigments 6,05 % 3,48 % 3,48 % C C9-12 alcane (VEGELIGHT SILK DESODORIS E) 18,7 % 12,02 % 12,02 % C Bis-hydroxypropyl dimethicone / S MDI copolymer 1,97 % MA* 2,25 % MA* - C Acrylates / Polytrimethylsiloxy-meth acrylate Copolymer (40%) dans Iso dodecane (60%) (DOWSIL FA-4004) - - 5 % Isododécane - 2,75% - Dimethicone 3% - -

[0394] * MA = matières actives

[0395] [Tableauxô] Ingredients (INCI names and trade names) Composition 12

[251] Composition 13

[256] Al Dibutyl alkoyl glutamides (20%) (and) Octyld odecanol (80%) (AJK-OD2046) 10% 10% A2 Polyamide-8 (SP OLEOCRAFT LP-20 MBAL-PA-(MV) MB) 20% 20% A2 Sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB 100) 15% 15% Phytosteryl / Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate (ELDEW PS-203) 5% - Elianthus Annuus (sunflower) seed oil unsapo nifiables (PXD PS TT-02) - 5% A2 Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone (BELSIL PDM 1000) qsplOO qsplOO A2 coco-caprylate / caprate (CETIOL C 5C MB) 12.1% 12.1% A2 Disteardimonium hectorite (15%), propylene c arbonate (5%), coco caprylate caprate (80%) (BENTONE GEL CCC V MB) 2.5% 2.5% B Pigments 3.48% 3.48% C C9-12 alkane (VEGELIGHT SILK DEODORIZED) 12.02% 12.02% C Bis-hydroxypropyl dimethicone / SMDI copolymer (45%) in isododecane (55%) (SILMER UR-5050) 5% 5%

[0396] The compositions are prepared according to the following procedure:

[0397] Phase Al is melted at 100°C, then phase A2 is melted at 90°C.

[0398] Phase A2 is then added to phase Al and homogenized at 90°C.

[0399] We then add to phase B, and homogenize.

[0400] Finally, phase C is added.

[0401] The compositions are poured at 85°C into suitable molds.

[0402] The compositions obtained are solid lip products.

[0403] When applied to the lips, the compositions provide makeup evaluated, according to the protocol of example 1, as having good shine and non-transfer properties.

[0404] These results show that the presence of a silicone-acrylate polymer, combined with polyamide-8, a phenylated silicone oil and a volatile oil, makes it possible to obtain good shine and non-transfer properties of the lip products obtained. Example 5#: Comparative Examples

[0405] The effect of combining a silicone-acrylate polymer, polyamide-8, a phenylated silicone oil and a volatile oil (composition 6 according to the invention) was compared to compositions not including polyamide-8, as illustrated in composition 14.

[0406] The control composition 14 below is a comparative solid lipstick, of similar composition to composition 6 but not comprising Polyamide-8.

[0407] Unless otherwise stated, percentages are expressed as weight of raw material relative to the final composition.

[0408] [Tables?] Ingredients (INCI names and trade names) Composition 6

[224] (according to the invention) Control composition 14

[267] (comparative without OLEOCRAFT) Al Dibutyl alkyl glutamides (20%) (and) Octyldodecanol (80%) (AJK-OD2046) 10% 30% A2 Polyamide-8 (SP OLEOCRAFT LP-20 MBA L-PA-(MV) MB) 20% - A2 Sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB 100) 15% 15% A2 Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone (BELSIL PDM 1000) qsplOO qsplOO A2 coco-caprylate / caprate (CETIOL C 5C MB) 7.75% 7.75% A2 Disteardimonium hectorite (15%), propylene carbonate (5%), coco-caprylate / caprate (qs 100%) (BENTONE GEL CCC V MB) 2.5% 2.5% B Pigments 6.05% 6.05% C C9-12 alkane (VEGELIGHT SILK DESODO RISE) 18.7% 18.7% C Bis-hydroxypropyl dimethicone / SMDI copolymer (45%) in ododecane (qs 100) (SILMER UR-5050) 5% 5% Gloss Satin Satin Non-transfer Non-transfer Low-Transfer

[0409] Composition 14 is prepared according to the following procedure:

[0410] Phase Al is melted at 100°C, then phase A2 is melted at 90°C.

[0411] Phase A2 is then added to phase Al and homogenized at 90°C.

[0412] We then add to phase B, and homogenize.

[0413] Finally, phase C is added.

[0414] The compositions are poured at 85°C into suitable molds.

[0415] The compositions obtained are solid lip products.

[0416] When applied to the lips, the compositions provide makeup evaluated, according to the protocol of example 1, as satin for compositions 6 and 14, but only low-transfer for composition 14, while composition 6 provides makeup evaluated as non-transfer.

[0417] These results therefore show that polyamide 8, in association with a silicone-acrylate polymer, a silicone oil and a volatile oil, makes it possible to obtain the desired gloss and non-transfer properties.

Claims

1.

2. Demands An anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least: - a silicone polymer chosen from among silicone-polyurethane polymers and silicone-acrylate polymers, - a lipophilic polycondensate of polyamide type, - a non-volatile silicone oil, - a volatile oil, and - optionally, in addition, at least one coloring agent. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the silicone polymer is a silicone-polyurethane polymer, in particular a silicone-polyurethane polymer which is the reaction product of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the structure of formula (Ib) CTL f CH, : ! I. I OH. ™ 0¾ ■"CHj'" 01¾ ~ S r*~p—'Si 0¾ Œj (Ib) in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50,

3. - with a diisocyanate compound, in particular chosen from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexyl methane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations. A cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type is selected from ester-terminated polyamides, in particular an ester-terminated polyamide obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a linoleic acid dimer, with ethylenediamine, the remaining acidic endings being esterified by cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, or a mixture thereof, and having the INCI name: ETHYLENEDIAMINE / STEARYL DIMER DILINOLEATE COPOLYMER; tertiary amide-terminated polyamides; polyamides with polyalkyleneoxy terminations; poly(ester-amides) with ester terminations; and mixtures thereof; preferably a poly(ester-amide) with ester termination obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid and neopentyl glycol, on ethylene diamine; the remaining acidic terminations being esterified by stearyl alcohol, and having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8.

4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it comprises at least one non- phenylated silicone volatile oil, preferably a phenylated silicone oil comprising at least one dimethicone fragment and is in particular chosen from trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl dimethicones, tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxanes and mixtures thereof, preferably is a phenylated silicone oil of formula (VI) Me Me Sv Me Me] - O—■ Me V L ÇR' ' 0.^--Ô— Ph (VI)

5.

6. in which - Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - 0siMe3, - y varies between 1 and 1000, and - z varies between 1 and 1000, preferably trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the volatile oil(s) are hydrocarbon volatile oils selected from C8-C16 branched alkanes, C9-C14 linear alkanes, esters, optionally hydroxylated, in particular C8-Ci6 branched esters, ethers, dialkoxymethane, carbonates, and mixtures thereof, preferably C8-Ci6 branched alkanes, C9-C14 linear alkanes, and mixtures thereof, preferably C9-C14 linear alkanes. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the silicone polymer is present in a content ranging from 0.5 to 25% by weight of active polymer (dry matter), preferably from 1 to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 1.5 at 15% by weight of active polymer material relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type is present in an amount of active material ranging from 1 to 35% by weight, better from 2 to 25% relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the total content of silicone oil(s), phenylated or non-phenylated, in particular of phenylated silicone oil(s), in the composition of the invention ranges from 10 to 50% by weight, in particular from 10 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it comprises: - 2 to 25% by weight of active material (dry matter) of silicone polymer selected from silicone-polyurethane polymers and silicone-acrylate polymers, preferably silicone-polyurethane polymer, - 1 to 30% by weight of active material (dry matter) of lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, - 10 to 50% by total weight of non-volatile silicone oil(s), and / or - 5 to 40% by total weight of volatile oil(s).

10. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that said cosmetic composition is liquid.

11. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it does not comprise alkylcellulose, in particular does not comprise ethylcellulose.

12. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it is a skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials, in particular a skin composition such as eyeliner, eyeshadow, foundation, foundation stick, concealer or corrector, blush or cheek powder, or an eyelash composition such as mascara, or preferably a lip composition 48 such as a gloss, a lip lacquer, a lip balm or a lipstick stick.

13. A cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials comprising the application, on the keratinous materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips, of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12.