Glossy, non-transfer anhydrous composition

Abstract

The present invention relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least: (i) a lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, (ii) a compound promoting the adhesion of the composition to keratinous materials, selected in particular from the group consisting of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene copolymers comprising 2 to 20 carbon atoms, sugar esters, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB), branched dextrin esters, and mixtures thereof, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB), (iii) a volatile oil, and (iv) optionally, in addition, at least one colorant. Figure: none

Description

Title of the invention: Brilliant, non-transfer anhydrous composition FIELD OF INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetics. It relates in particular to shiny and non-transfer anhydrous compositions for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin or lips. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] Prior art is known to exist for skincare and / or makeup compositions containing keratin-based materials with shine and staying power, but these materials tend to leave a colored residue on any surface (skin, clothing, etc.) with which they come into contact (these products are said to transfer). In the world of lipsticks, in particular, the demand is for an ultra-glossy product (a "vinyl" finish) with very long-lasting wear, or even one that does not transfer or transfers very little upon contact with a surface (a property known as "non-transfer").

[0003] But to the Applicant's knowledge, there are currently no such products on the market that offer very long wear with non-transfer properties and easy makeup removal.

[0004] Liquid products such as lip glosses do indeed have the characteristic of providing a very shiny or "vinyl" film on the lips, but they have the disadvantage of providing a film with little coverage and low color intensity, often with limited staying power, significant migration into fine lines, and significant transfer. Solid products, particularly in stick form, have the advantage of providing intense color with longer-lasting wear and / or non-transfer properties, but are not as shiny as a gloss; sticks described as long-lasting but not "non-transfer" generally have a satin finish (not a glossy one), and "non-transfer" sticks are matte and less comfortable, even drying.

[0005] Other proposals exist to obtain a glossy and non-transferable deposit, but are generally presented in the form of products to be applied in 2 steps (so-called "double step" products): a first colored layer in contact with the lips, long-lasting, non-transferable, but not glossy, and a second ultra-glossy transparent layer placed on the first ("top coat") which provides the shine and the non-stickiness, and which can transfer without leaving any trace or colored residue.

[0006] Similarly for the eyes, there are no non-transfer and non-sticky glitter eyeshadows, nor non-transfer glitter liners or mascaras.

[0007] We are therefore looking for new skincare and / or makeup compositions for keratinous materials (including skin, lips, eyelashes), in a single step, exhibiting very good shine and / or long-lasting properties, which do not migrate into wrinkles and fine lines and / or improved "non-transfer" properties.

[0008] These properties can be evaluated by any method known in the art for evaluating such properties. Furthermore, these characteristics can be evaluated in relation to other compositions, such as commercially available compositions.

[0009] The Applicant has identified a specific combination of ingredients consisting of at least one lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type and a compound promoting the adhesion of the composition to keratinous materials, in an anhydrous composition comprising at least one volatile oil, making it possible to obtain an ultra-glossy film ('vinyl') with very long-lasting performance and improved non-transfer properties.

[0010] The composition of the invention has excellent gloss properties and an unprecedented non-transfer result for this type of glossy compositions. Description of the invention

[0011] The present invention therefore relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least: - a lipophilic polycondensate of polyamide type, - a compound promoting the adhesion of the composition to keratinous materials, chosen in particular from the group consisting of: • vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene copolymers comprising 2 to 20 carbon atoms, • sugar esters, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB), • branched dextrin esters, • and their mixtures,

[0012] preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB), - a volatile oil, and

[0013] possibly in addition at least one coloring matter.

[0014] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular the skin and / or lips, preferably the lips, of a composition according to the invention.

[0015] By "cosmetic composition" we mean any composition with a cosmetic purpose, that is to say aesthetic, which may be brought into contact with the superficial parts of the human body and more particularly with keratinous materials, in particular human skin and / or lips.

[0016] By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant any excipient suitable for topical use, in contact with keratinous materials, without risk of toxicity, incompatibility, instability and / or allergic response.

[0017] By "keratinous materials" according to the invention, we mean the skin and / or its appendages, in particular the skin, eyelashes, eyebrows, lips, and more particularly human skin and / or lips.

[0018] By "anhydrous," it is understood, in particular, that water is preferably not deliberately added to the compositions but may be present in trace amounts in the various compounds used in the compositions. In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 4% by weight of water, preferably less than 3%, preferably less than 2%, more preferably less than 1%, and even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of said composition, or is even completely free of water.

[0019] The composition of the invention may be a liquid composition or a solid composition.

[0020] According to a first embodiment, the composition of the invention is liquid.

[0021] For the purposes of the present invention, "liquid composition" means a liquid to fluid composition which is capable of flowing under its own weight, at 20°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), as opposed to so-called solid compositions.

[0022] According to another embodiment, the composition is solid.

[0023] By "solid composition" according to the invention, we mean a composition which does not flow under its own weight, at 20°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm of Hg), as opposed to so-called liquid compositions.

[0024] The composition may in particular be in the form of a stick or a composition packaged in a cup.

[0025] The hardness of the compositions of the invention, in particular the sticks, can be measured at 20°C using the so-called "butter wire" method, which consists of cutting a stick of product with a diameter between 10 and 12 mm, preferably cylindrical in shape, transversely with a rigid metal wire of 250 µm diameter, moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 60 mm / min. The hardness of the samples is expressed in Gram-force (Gf) and can be measured using a texture analyzer such as the TAXT Plus Texture Analyzer. For a stick of a composition intended to be applied to the lips, the minimum value obtained is greater than 30 Gf. According to a particular and preferred method, the hardness of the sticks according to the invention will range from 40 to 120 Gf.

[0026] A person skilled in the art will be able to adapt the stick-shaping process based on the composition of the invention according to its hardness. In particular when the hardness is less than 100gf, shaping the stick by a so-called "back-fill" process, consisting of pouring and cooling the composition directly into the pack mechanism, will be preferred over shaping consisting of pouring and cooling the composition in a mold and then inserting the stick into the mechanism.

[0027] The compositions of the invention have good gloss and non-transfer properties.

[0028] These properties can be evaluated using different methods.

[0029] Brilliance

[0030] The gloss property can, for example, be evaluated visually or by measurement with a gloss meter. For a visual evaluation, a photograph can be taken of lips made up with the composition of the invention, and the gloss of the deposited film can be visually assessed. The compositions of the invention will have a glossy to very glossy, or even vinyl-like, gloss film.

[0031] Non-transfer

[0032] The non-transfer properties of the compositions of the invention can be evaluated by touching the film with a finger or by kissing the hand or by applying a cloth or a glass slide to the lips (evaluation of non-transfer under pressure), and the presence or absence of color transferred onto the support (hand, finger, cloth, glass...) is observed; compositions with good resistance to pressure are thus sought. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0033] A first object therefore relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least: - a lipophilic polycondensate of polyamide type, - a compound promoting the adhesion of the composition to keratinous materials, chosen in particular from the group consisting of: • vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene copolymers comprising 2 to 20 carbon atoms, • sugar esters, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB), • branched dextrin esters, • and their mixtures,

[0034] preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB), - a volatile oil, and

[0035] possibly in addition at least one coloring matter. Lipophilic polyamide polycondensate

[0036] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, as a fat-phase gelling polymer.

[0037] Polyamide-type polycondensates can form a three-dimensional network through hydrogen bonding interactions, in which lipophilic oils have an affinity for acidic dimer chains. When applied to the surface of the skin and / or lips, they form a highly structured network resistant to external stresses (friction, contact, etc.) and which quickly reforms after shearing, while remaining comfortable. Their presence in the oil phase thus gives the composition of the invention significantly improved adhesion when applied as a film to the surface of the skin and / or lips.

[0038] For the purposes of this invention, "polycondensate" means a polymer obtained by polycondensation, namely by chemical reaction between monomers having different functional groups chosen in particular from acid, alcohol and amine functions.

[0039] For the purposes of this invention, "polymer" means a compound having at least 2 repeating motifs, preferably at least 3 repeating motifs and even better 10 repeating motifs.

[0040] In the rest of the description, the terms "polyamide polymer" or "polyamide polycondensate" or "lipophilic polyamide polycondensate" or "polyamide-type lipophilic polycondensate" or "polyamide-type lipophilic gelling polymer" are used interchangeably.

[0041] The polyamide-type polycondensate usable in the composition of the invention is preferably chosen from ester-terminated polyamides, tertiary amide-terminated polyamides, polyalkyleneoxy-terminated polyamides, ester-terminated poly(ester-amides), and mixtures thereof.

[0042] In the context of the invention, the composition according to the invention advantageously comprises at least one ester-terminated polyamide and / or one ester-terminated poly(ester-amides).

[0043] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type is an ester-terminated polyamide obtained by the condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a linoleic acid dimer (also called dilinoleic acid), onto ethylenediamine, the remaining acidic end groups being esterified by cetyl alcohol (C16), stearyl alcohol (C18), or a mixture thereof. The copolymer thus obtained has the INCI name: ETHYLENEDIAMINE / STEARYL DIMER DILINOLEATE COPOLYMER. It is notably sold by ARIZONA CHEMICAL under the trade names UNICLEAR 80 and UNICLEAR 100 VG, respectively in the form of an 80% (active ingredient) gel in a mineral oil and a 100% (active ingredient) gel.

[0044] These mixtures are also sold by CRODA under the trade name OLEOCRAFT LP-IO-PA-(MV), respectively at 99.7% (active ingredient) with a preservative. They have a softening point of 88°C to 94°C. Their average molecular weight is preferably 6000, and even more preferably 4000.

[0045] According to another particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type is a poly (ester-amide) with an ester termination obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid (also called hydrogenated dilinoleic acid) and neopentyl glycol, on ethylene diamine; the remaining acid terminations being esterified by stearyl alcohol (Cl8).

[0046] The copolymer thus obtained is a dimeric copolymer ethylenediamine bis-stearyl ethylenediamine / neopentylglycol / stearyl dibenzoate, having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8.

[0047] The copolymer with INCI name POLYAMIDE-8 is, for example, marketed under the name OLEOCRAFT LP-20 by the company CRODA.

[0048] In general, polymers as described below are in the form of polymer mixtures, these mixtures may also contain a synthetic product corresponding to a diester.

[0049] A mixture of lipophilic gelling agents among those described above is, for example, a mixture of ester-terminated poly(ester-amides) and polyalkyleneoxy-terminated polyamides whose molecular weights are approximately between 4,500 and 30,000 Daltons (Da).

[0050] According to a particular mode, the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type used according to the invention is present in the composition in an amount of active material ranging from 1 to 35% by weight, better from 2 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0051] According to a particular mode, in particular in the case of a liquid composition according to the invention, the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type used according to the invention is present in the composition in an amount of active material ranging from 2 to 25% by weight, in particular from 3 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0052] According to another particular mode, in particular in the case of a solid composition according to the invention, the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type used according to the invention is present in the composition in an amount of active material ranging from 5% to 35% by weight, preferably from 8% to 30%, better from 10% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0053] Compound promoting the adhesion of the composition to keratinous materials

[0054] The cosmetic composition of the invention comprises one or more compounds having good adhesion properties on the skin and / or lips, dispersible(s) in oil phase, polymeric or non-polymeric, and distinct from the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type described above.

[0055] This compound promoting the adhesion of the composition to keratinous materials (also called "adhesive compound") according to the invention is capable of guaranteeing optimal adhesion to the skin and / or lips throughout the day.

[0056] The compound promoting the adhesion of the composition to keratinous materials may be present in the composition in an amount of active material ranging from 2 to 20% by weight, preferably from 5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0057] According to a particular mode, this compound promoting the adhesion of the film to the skin and / or lips is characterized by an adhesion working measure, as defined by the following protocol.

[0058] The adhesion work function of a raw material (e.g., a polymer) is measured at room temperature (22°C + / - 2°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) using the so-called "Delrin finger" method. The instrument used is a TAXT Plus texture analyzer from Stable Micro Systems. The method consists of inserting a 12.7 mm diameter polyoxymethylene (Delrin) cylinder, rounded at its end, into a 6 cm diameter and 4 cm high container filled with the raw material (e.g., polymer) to be tested. The insertion depth is 13 mm, at a speed of 2 mm / sec. After this insertion depth, the cylinder is withdrawn at a speed of 2 mm / sec.

[0059] The resistance force to cylinder retraction is measured until the polymer bonded to the cylinder completely detaches, corresponding to a return to zero measured force. The calculated adhesion work, expressed in N / mm², corresponds to the total area under the x-axis.

[0060] Thus, within the framework of the invention, a compound promoting the adhesion of the film to the skin and / or lips will preferably be used, having an adhesion work greater than or equal to 2 N / mm, preferably greater than or equal to 4 N / mm, and in particular ranging from 5 N / mm to 35 N / mm, or even from 7 N / mm to 30 N / mm, measured for example by the protocol described above.

[0061] The following adhesion polymers, having an adhesion work measured according to the protocol described above, may be cited in particular:

[0062] - UNIMER U1946 (VP / hexadecene copolymer, INCI name: VP / hexadecene) and octyldodecanol): 7.7 N / mm

[0063] - CGT-UNIFILMA HVY (85%) (dextrin isostearate): 20.7 N / mm³

[0064] - EASTMAN SUSTANE SAIB (sucrose acetate isobutyrate): 24.2 N / mm.

[0065] Thus, according to a particular embodiment of the invention, said compound promoting the adhesion of the film to keratinous materials is chosen from the group consisting of: - copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkenes comprising 2 to 20 carbon atoms, - sugar esters, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB), - branched dextrin esters, - and their mixtures.

[0066] Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene

[0067] According to a first embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a polymer selected from vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene copolymers comprising 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as VP / eicosene, VP / hexadecene, VP / styrene copolymers.

[0068] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises a VP / hexadecene copolymer, such as that with INCI name: VP / hexadecene and octyldodecanol, marketed under the name UNIMER U-1946.

[0069] The vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene copolymer(s) comprising 2 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular the VP / hexadecene copolymer, is (are) present in the composition in a total content of 2 to 20%, in particular 5 to 15%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Sugar esters

[0070] According to another particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a film cohesion-enhancing compound selected from sugar esters, in particular sucrose acetate isobutyrate marketed under the name EASTMAN SUSTANE SAIB by the EASTMAN company. This compound can be prepared by known techniques of reaction between sucrose and acetic and isobutyric anhydrides, followed by extensive purification by vacuum distillation. The degree of esterification is almost complete (degree of substitution greater than 7.5 for a maximum degree of substitution of 8), with an acetate:isobutyrate ester ratio of 2:6. US patent 3,096,324 gives an example of the preparation of SAIB.

[0071] The sucrose ester(s), in particular sucrose acetate isobutyrate, is / are present in the composition in a total content ranging from 2 to 20%, in particular from 5 to 15%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Branched dextrin esters

[0072] According to another particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises a compound promoting the adhesion of the film to keratinous materials selected from branched esters of dextrin.

[0073] The branched dextrin ester used in the context of the invention may comprise one or more esterified chains, identical or different. For example, it may be dextrin esterified with several identical or different fatty acids. These dextrin esters can be prepared using conventional esterification methods.

[0074] According to a particular embodiment, the branched dextrin ester is a dextrin ester in which the dextrin has an average degree of glucose polymerization of 3 to 150, and in which the fatty acid(s) comprise from 50% to 100% by mole, based on the total amount of fatty acid(s), of one or more branched saturated fatty acids having from 4 to 26 carbon atoms, and from 0% to less than 50% by mole, based on the total amount of fatty acid(s), of one or more other fatty acids selected from the group consisting of linear saturated fatty acids having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms, linear or branched unsaturated fatty acids having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and cyclic fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and in which the degree of substitution of dextrin by fatty acid(s) is 1.0 to 3.0 per unit of glucose.

[0075] Such dextrin esters are described in particular in European application EP 2537865.

[0076] According to a particular embodiment, the branched dextrin ester is selected from dextrin isostearate, dextrin isoarachidate, dextrin isopalmitate, dextrin isononanoate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the branched dextrin ester is dextrin isostearate.

[0077] Among the commercially available compounds, we can mention UNIFILMA HVY dextrin isostearate marketed by the Chiba Flour Milling Co.

[0078] According to one embodiment, the branched dextrin ester is present in the composition in a content ranging from 2 to 20%, in particular from 5 to 15%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Oily phase

[0079] The cosmetic composition of the invention comprises a fatty or oily phase.

[0080] The term "oily phase" means an oil or a mixture of oils.

[0081] For the purposes of this invention, "oil" means a fatty substance, insoluble in water, liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure. volatile oil

[0082] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one volatile oil, in particular at least one hydrocarbon volatile oil.

[0083] By "volatile oil" according to the present invention, we mean an oil which has lost more than 20% by mass of its mass at 15 minutes, more than 40% by mass of its mass at 30 minutes and more than 70% by mass of its mass at 60 minutes, according to the following protocol:

[0084] 20 mg of the oil to be studied is weighed onto a 5 cm x 5 cm PMMA plate at using a micropipette and a precision balance.

[0085] This material is spread over the entire plate using a finger. The plate is then placed in a ventilated chamber with a temperature control of 25°C and 50% humidity. The test is performed three times for each material. The mass loss during drying is measured after 15 minutes, 30 minutes, and 60 minutes. The mass loss is expressed according to the following calculation:

[0086] [Math.l] % - mass slope ss —-----— x 190 with mtx corresponding to the remaining mass at the measured time (tl5min, t30min or tô0min) and mt0 corresponding to the mass initially applied.

[0087] The volatile oil or oils are in particular chosen from silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0088] By "siliconized oil", according to the invention, we mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0089] By "hydrocarbon oil", according to the invention, means an oil formed essentially, or even made up of, carbon and hydrogen atoms and which may include at least one oxygen and / or nitrogen atom, and free from Si, F and P atoms.

[0090] Examples of volatile silicone oils include linear or cyclic volatile silicone oils and their mixtures.

[0091] The volatile oil can in particular be chosen from silicone oils such as dimethicones (polydimethylsiloxanes) with a viscosity ranging from 0.5 to 6 cSt, alkyl trisiloxanes, and cyclomethicones. Examples include octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, l,l,l,3,5,5,5-Heptamethyl-3-(trimethylsilyloxy)trisiloxane (also known as methyl trimethicone), decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof, in particular dimethicones with viscosities ranging from 0.5 to 6 cSt, methyl trimethicone, and mixtures thereof.

[0092] According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil.

[0093] Examples of volatile hydrocarbon oils include: - C8-Ci6 branched alkanes, - linear C9-C14 alkanes, - esters, possibly hydroxylated, in particular C8-C16 branched esters, the ethers, dialkoxymethane, carbonates, and mixtures thereof.

[0094] As examples of C8-Ci6 branched alkanes, we can mention in particular the C8-Ci6 iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names ISOPAR® or PERMETYL®.

[0095] Examples of linear C9-CM alkanes include n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14), and mixtures thereof.

[0096] The linear volatile alkane may be used alone or preferably a mixture of at least two distinct linear volatile alkanes may be used, differing from each other by a number of carbon n of at least 1, in particular differing from each other by a number of carbon of 1 or 2.

[0097] More particularly, a suitable linear volatile alkane for the invention can be implemented in the form of an n-undecane / n-tridecane (Cn / Ci3) mixture, an n-nonane and n-dodecane (C9 / Ci2) mixture or an n-dodecane and n-tetradecane (Ci2 / CM) mixture.

[0098] Examples include alkanes having hydrocarbon chains in:

[0099] - C9-C14, C10-C14, Cl1-C13 such as a mixture of undecane and tridecane, marketed by BASF Care Creations under the name Cetiol® Ultimate,

[0100] - C9-C12, C12-C14, such as those marketed by BIOSYNTHIS under the name VEGELIGHT® SILK (INCI name C9-12 ALKANE), VEGELIGHT® 1214LC,

[0101] - n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), notably sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL® 12-97 and PARAFOL® 14-97, and

[0102] - their mixtures.

[0103] As optionally hydroxylated esters, one may mention in particular esters comprising preferably between 5 and 12 carbon atoms in total, preferably monoesters, and in particular esters of monoalcohol in C2-C6 and of monocarboxylic acid in C3-C6, optionally hydroxylated, comprising between 5 and 11 carbon atoms in total, for example such as isopropyl hexanoate or ethyl lactate.

[0104] As C8-Ci6 branched esters, one can cite in particular isohexyl neopentanoate.

[0105] Examples of ethers, in particular monoethers, include ethers having from 4 to 10 carbon atoms in total, for example such as the dipentylether.

[0106] Examples of dialkoxymethane include dialkoxymethanes with a total of 3 to 11 carbon atoms, such as dimethoxymethane, diethoxymethane, or dibutoxymethane. Such compounds are marketed, in particular, under the names methylal, ethylal, and butylal, respectively, by the company Lambiotte.

[0107] Examples of carbonates include carbonates having from 3 to 11 carbon atoms in total, for example such as dimethyl carbonate, diethyl carbonate, dipropyl carbonate, or dipentyl carbonate.

[0108] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises at least one hydrocarbon volatile oil selected from the group consisting of C8-C16 branched alkanes, C9-C14 linear alkanes, and mixtures thereof, preferably C9-C14 linear alkanes.

[0109] The total volatile oil content, particularly volatile hydrocarbon oil content, in the composition of the invention will generally range from 5% to 40% by weight, preferably from 15% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Glossy viscous oils

[0110] The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more high molecular weight non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, in particular ester oils selected notably from:

[0111] - esters of aromatic acids and alcohols comprising 4 to 22 atoms; examples include including tridecylle trimellilate (Liponate TDTM);

[0112] - hydroxylated esters, preferably having a total number of carbons ranging from 35 to 70, such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl 10 isostearate (S Face IS 1005p), polyglyceryl-10 pentaisostearate, polyglyceryl 10 nonaisostearate, isostearyl lactate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, glycerin stearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate;

[0113] - oligomeric polyester dimers obtained by reaction between a fatty alcohol and a dimeric fatty acid; examples include dimer dilinoleate esters, such as the following products:

[0114] - polyglyceryl-2 isostearate / dilinoleate dimer copolymer (Hailucent ISDA of Estenity);

[0115] - dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate (e.g. Lusplan™),

[0116] - Octyldodecanol And Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate marketed under the name VISCOPLAST 25,000 SHINE

[0117] - Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer marketed under the name VISCOPLAST 14436H

[0118] - Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer And C15-19 Alkane And Coco-Caprylate / Caprate marketed under the name VISCOPLAST WR-2 1618

[0119] - Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oils And Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate marketed under the name VISCOPLAST 30,000 SHINE,

[0120] - and their mixtures,

[0121] - esters of amino acid derivatives; one example is Di(phytosteryl) octyldodecyl)N-Lauroyl-L-glutamate (e.g. Eldew®);

[0122] - rosine esters, such as rosinate oil with INCI name: METHYL HYDROGENATED ROSINATE marketed under the name FLORALYN;

[0123] - vegetable oils comprising triglycerides and esters, such as unsaponifiable sunflower oil, castor oil and mixtures thereof,

[0124] - and mixtures thereof.

[0125] Non-volatile silicone oil, phenylated or non-phenylated

[0126] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, to further improve the gloss and non-transfer of the film applied to keratin materials, the composition of the invention may further comprise at least one non-volatile silicone oil, chosen from phenylated silicone non-volatile oils, non-phenylated silicone non-volatile oils and mixtures thereof.

[0127] The non-volatile silicone oils usable in the composition according to the invention can be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising at least one alkyl or alkoxy group, in C2 24- during and / or at the end of the silicone chain.

[0128] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one phenylated silicone oil. The phenylated silicone oil may be selected from phenylated silicone oils comprising at least one dimethicone fragment, phenylated silicone oils not comprising a dimethicone fragment, and mixtures thereof.

[0129] The term "phenylated silicone oil" according to the invention means an organopolysiloxane substituted by at least one phenyl group. The phenylated silicone oil is in particular selected from the group consisting of phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane and mixtures thereof.

[0130] According to a particular mode, the composition comprises at least one phenylated silicone non-volatile oil comprising at least one dimethicone fragment.

[0131] By "dimethicone fragment" is meant a divalent siloxane group, of which the silicone atom bears two methyl radicals, said group not being localized at one or both ends of the molecule.

[0132] Such an oil can be represented by the following formula:

[0133] -(Si(CH3)2-O)-

[0134] Preferably, said oil does not comprise a C2-C3 oxide alkene group or a glycerol group.

[0135] Examples of phenylated silicone non-volatile oils comprising a dimethicone fragment include, in particular, oils with the following INCI names: Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone, Diphenyl Dimethicone, Tetramethyl Tetraphenyl Trisiloxane and mixtures thereof, preferably Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone. Examples include diphenyl dimethicone sold under the names KF-54 HV from Shin Etsu and SilShine 150 from Momentive, and Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone marketed under the name Belsil PDM 1000 from Wacker Chemie AG.

[0136] Thus, according to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention comprises at least one phenylated silicone oil of formula (VI) (VI) Mq Me î r CW- Me— Si "i— O——o---Si (Eyelash Me1 MJ*

[0137] in which

[0138] Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a -OSiMe3 group

[0139] y varies between 1 and 1000, and

[0140] z varies between 1 and 1000.

[0141] For example, Belsils PDM20, PDM 100 and PDM 1000 from Wacker can be used, and in particular trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone, notably sold under the name BELSIL PDM 1000 marketed by the Wacker company.

[0142] The composition may further include other additional non-volatile silicone oils selected from phenyl silicone oils not comprising dimethicone fragments, non-phenyl silicone oils and mixtures thereof.

[0143] Examples of phenylated silicone non-volatile oils not containing a dimethicone fragment include compounds with the following INCI names: Phenyltrimethicone, Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone, Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxanes, and mixtures thereof. An example is the oil marketed under the names KF50, KF53, K54, and KF56 from Shin Etsu, preferably reference KF56 with the INCI name dipenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, the formula of which is as follows:

[0144] We can also mention Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane sold under the name PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic Fluid by Dow Corning and phenyl trimethicone sold under the name Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid by Dow Corning.

[0145] According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention shall comprise a phenylated silicone oil comprising a dimethicone group and a phenylated silicone oil not comprising a dimethicone group.

[0146] As an example of a combination of phenylated silicone oils, one can advantageously cite the combination of trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone, such as that sold under the name BELSIL PDM 1000 marketed by the company Wacker, and Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone, such as that sold under the name KF-56A by Shin Etsu Silicones.

[0147] According to another particular mode, the composition of the invention shall comprise a non-phenylated silicone oil, as a non-volatile silicone oil.

[0148] Examples of non-phenylated silicone non-volatile oils include polydimethylsiloxanes (INCI name: dimethicone) and alkyl dimethicones preferably comprising at least one alkyl group in the C2-C24 position, such as dimethicone, cetyl dimethicone, stearyl dimethicone, and mixtures thereof. Examples include dimethicones with viscosities ranging from 500 cSt to 1000 cSt, such as those marketed under the names MIRASIL DM500 (dimethicone with a viscosity of 500 cSt) and KF-96 A 1000 cSt (dimethicone with a viscosity of 1000 cSt).

[0149] A person skilled in the art will thus be able to determine, based on the viscosity of non-volatile silicone oils, their refractive index at 25°C (generally greater than 1.40) and their compatibility with the other ingredients of the composition of the invention, the combinations allowing to obtain the best gloss and non-transfer properties, as sought in the present invention.

[0150] According to a particular mode, the total content of silicone oil(s), phenylated or non-phenylated, in particular phenylated silicone oils, in the composition of the invention shall in particular range from 10 to 50% by weight, in particular from 10 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Silicone polymer

[0151] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one silicone polymer selected from silicone-polyurethane polymers and silicone-acrylate polymers. Silicone-polyurethane polymer

[0152] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises, as a silicone polymer, at least one silicone-polyurethane polymer.

[0153] The term “silicone-polyurethane polymer” herein means any polymer comprising organosiloxane motifs and methane bonds.

[0154] According to a particular mode, the silicone-polyurethane polymer used in the context of the invention is the reaction product of a polyorganosiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups, preferably comprising at least two hydroxyl groups, with a diisocyanate compound.

[0155] Such a polyorganosiloxane functionalized by hydroxyl groups corresponds to the formula (I) ii

[0156] wherein R is selected independently at each occurrence from a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group, and optionally substituted hydrocarbon groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and in particular from a substituted or unsubstituted alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, aryl, aryl-alkyl or alkyl-aryl group; preferably, R is selected from linear, cyclic or branched C1-C6 alkyl or alkenyl groups, optionally substituted, including, without limitation, C1-C8 methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, t-butyl, amyl, hexyl, cyclohexyl, vinyl, allyl or aryl groups, aryl-alkyl or alkyl-aryl, including, without limitation, phenyl, benzyl, tolyl, xylyl,

[0157] wherein each of the above R groups may be optionally substituted by one or more heteroatoms, including oxygen, nitrogen, phosphorus, and a halogen, in particular fluorine, as illustrated by fluoroalkyl (perfluoroalkyl) groups such as mono-, di-, and trifluoromethyl, perfluorophenyl, and C1-C6 substituted amino alkyl groups, including those corresponding to the formula -(CH2)i 6-NRN2 and -(CH2)i-6-NRn-(CH2)i 6-NRN2 where Rn is typically hydrogen, but may also be a methyl, ethyl, propyl, and analogous group; polyether groups, including, without limitation, polyethylene oxide groups corresponding to the formula -(CH2CH2O)n-, propylene oxide groups corresponding to the formula -(CH(CH3)CH2O)n- and combinations thereof; and amine oxide, phosphate, hydroxyl, ester and / or carboxylate functions, or similar; or

[0158] in which R may comprise an additional group - L-OH;

[0159] wherein L represents either a bond or a bonding group; preferably L is a bonding group selected from divalent hydrocarbons having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, including a divalent alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, aryl, alkyl-aryl or aryl-alkyl group, such as for example an alkyl group in Cl-CIO, including, without limitation, divalent groups of formula -(CH2)m0-, preferably -(CH2)i_6-, and more preferably, L is -CH2CH2CH2-;

[0160] and where n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50.

[0161] Preferably, R represents at least one or more occurrences of a methyl group; more preferably, R represents a methyl group in all or almost all occurrences, meaning that R represents a methyl group in more than 90% of occurrences, in particular in more than 95% of occurrences, or even in more than 98% of occurrences. According to one embodiment of the invention, the polyorganosiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups comprises a polymethylsiloxane having, for example, the structure of formula la: (there) 3 HO--L—'Si--O-|~St--O—Si--L~—OH CH3 L CHt J CH 3 n

[0162] in which L and n are such as defined previously.

[0163] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, polyorganosiloxane functionalized by hydroxyl groups includes a polymethylsiloxane corresponding for example to the structure of formula Ib: ÇHj CH3 (Ib) OH”CH2”C H2”CH2~Si—0“ “ Si”—O~ —Si — CH,” Œ2” CHj-OH CH? - CH3 _ CH3 n

[0164] where n is as defined above.

[0165] The diisocyanate may in particular conform to the formula O=C=NR'-N=C=O, where R1 is a divalent hydrocarbon group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, including 20 optionally substituted by one or more heteroatoms, and in particular R1 may be selected from a cyclic alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, aryl, or alkyl-aryl group.

[0166] or linear, cyclic or branched arylalkyl, optionally substituted, including, without limitation: i. a group of formulas: """yCrijy MO

[0167] ii. a formula group: iii. a group of formulas:

[0168]

[0169] iv. a group of formulas: v. a group of formulas:

[0170]

[0171]

[0172]

[0173] and combinations thereof. The diisocyanates that may be suitable within the scope of the invention include, without limitation, toluene diisocyanate; methylene diphenyl diisocyanate, including 2,2'-MDI, 2,4'-MDI and 4,4'-MDI; 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate; isophorone diisocyanate; dicyclohexylmethane-4,4' diisocyanate; xylene diisocyanate; cyclohexane diisocyanate; 3,3'-dimethyl-4,4'-diphenylmethane diisocyanate; p-phenylene diisocyanate; m-phenylene diisocyanate; 4,4'-isopropylidene dicyclohexyl isocyanate; and their equivalents. In a preferred embodiment, the diisocyanate is chosen from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexylmethane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations.

[0174] In one embodiment, the diisocyanate comprises or consists essentially of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate.

[0175] In another embodiment, the diisocyanate comprises or essentially consists of isophorone diisocyanate.

[0176] In yet another embodiment, the diisocyanate comprises or consists essentially of dicyclohexylmethane 4,4'-diisocyanate, this embodiment being particularly preferred.

[0177] Thus, according to a particular mode, the silicone-polyurethane polymer is the reaction product

[0178] - of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the formula structure (Ib) rw Fr» 1 rw (Ib) OH“CÏV~Cï^"CH2~Si“G—'Œ2~œ2~C«é-OH CH, [ Œ3 j CH, he

[0179] in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50,

[0180] - with a diisocyanate compound, in particular selected from the group consisting of the 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexylmethane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations.

[0181] According to a preferred embodiment, the silicone-polyurethane polymer used in the context of the invention comprises recurring units derived from polyorganosiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups and diisocyanate in the form of an alternating copolymer AB, where unit A has the structure of formula II:

[0182] in which R, L and n are defined as previously in relation to the formula I, a and Ib, and where unit B has the structure of formula III:

[0183] where RI is as defined above, and in which units A and B are arranged in a linear, branched or cyclic configuration, and preferably linear.

[0184] The polymer may also comprise branching or grafting points in the polyorganosiloxane in which one or more R groups in formula I or II are a group IV such as:

[0185] in which R is as defined for formula I, and R* may represent a -LO- group further coupling the side chain of a unit B of formula III, which in turn may be further coupled to the unit A of formula II, and so on, or R* may represent -L-OH, an R group as defined above, or a terminal group.

[0186] When the polyorganosiloxane has branching or grafting points of this type, they may be present as T-type or Q-type grafts, where T indicates that only one R group on the Si atom is a polyorganosiloxane chain, as shown above, and Q indicates that both R groups are polyorganosiloxanes.

[0187] These types of polyorganosiloxane compounds are called silicone-polyurethane polymer copolymer and T resin or Q resin, branched or grafted.

[0188] Silicone-polyurethane polymers can also be prepared from functionalized isocyanate prepolymers. For example, an isocyanate prepolymer can be a difunctional or multifunctional polyorganosiloxane isocyanate, such as the polyorganosiloxane diisocyanate shown below in formula V: O [ R 1 RO (V) H y M i 0 H œN—R1—'N—€ Q—L“T~Si Of-Si—L—O—C N'—R:'"NCO HH lR JR

[0189] in which R, R1 and L are as defined above, and where x is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50.

[0190] The prepolymer can also be multifunctional by introducing additional isocyanate groups bearing one or more R groups. The functionalized isocyanate prepolymer is reacted with a polyorganosiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups to obtain a compound of formula I or a multifunctional analog thereof.

[0191] The prepolymer according to formula V generally has a molecular weight ranging from 4000 to approximately 15,000 Daltons. The prepolymer according to formulas I, Ia, Ib and Ib typically has a molecular weight ranging from 250 to approximately 15,000 Daltons.

[0192] In one embodiment of the invention, the silicone-polyurethane polymer is free or substantially free of polyalkylene glycol subunits, in particular polyethylene glycol (PEG) or polypropylene glycol (PPG).

[0193] By "essentially free of", it is understood that the polymer comprises less than about 1% by weight, preferably less than about 0.5% by weight, and more preferably less than about 0.1% by weight of polyalkylene glycol subunits.

[0194] In a preferred embodiment, the silicone-polyurethane polymer used in the cosmetic compositions of the invention is a linear polymer comprising the reaction product of formula Ib with a diisocyanate selected from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexylmethane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations.

[0195] Such a silicone-polyurethane polymer is available for example from Siltech Corporation as a premix in isododecane, under the trade reference SILMER UR 5050 (45% polymer dry matter in isododecane).

[0196] According to another embodiment, a silicone-polyurethane polymer is used in the form of a premix in a hemisqualane.

[0197] According to another embodiment, a silicone-polyurethane polymer is used in the form of a premix in a C9-C16 linear alkane or a mixture of C9-C16 linear alkanes, preferably a mixture of n-nonane and n-dodecane (C9-C12, VEGELIGHT SILK) or a mixture of n-undecane and n-tridecane (C11-C13, CETIOL ULTIMATE).

[0198] According to a particular mode, the silicone-polyurethane polymer according to the invention shall be present in the composition of the invention in a content ranging from 1 to 25% by weight of active polymer (dry matter), preferably from 2 to 20% by weight of active polymer, preferably still from 5 to 18% by weight of active polymer, preferably still from 10 to 16% by weight of active polymer relative to the total weight of the composition. silicone-acrylate polymer

[0199] In another embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises, as a silicone polymer, at least one silicone-acrylate polymer.

[0200] The "silicone-acrylate polymers" or "silicone acrylate polymers" can be selected from silicone acrylate polymers with or without a dendrimer motif.

[0201] Carbosiloxane dendrimer motif vinyl polymer (siliconized acrylate polymer) dendrimer motif

[0202] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises, as a silicone polymer, a silicone acrylate polymer with a dendrimer motif, in particular a vinyl polymer with a carbosiloxane dendrimer motif.

[0203] The vinyl polymer notably has a backbone and at least one side chain, which includes a carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif having a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure, such as those described in Dow Chemical Company's applications W003 / 045337 and EP 963 751.

[0204] The term "carbosiloxane dendrimer structure" in the context of the present invention represents a molecular structure possessing branched groups having high molecular weights, said structure having high regularity in the radial direction from the linkage to the backbone. Such carbosiloxane dendrimer structures are described in the form of a highly branched siloxane-silylalkylene copolymer in Japanese patent application JP 9-171 154.

[0205] According to a preferred embodiment, a vinyl polymer suitable for the invention may be one of the polymers described in the examples of application EP 0 963 751.

[0206] According to a preferred embodiment, a vinyl polymer grafted with a carbosiloxane dendrimer can be obtained from the polymerization of:

[0207] (A) from 0 to 99.9 part(s) by weight of one or more acrylate monomer(s) or methacrylate and

[0208] (B) from 100 to 0.1 part(s) by weight of an acrylate or methacrylate monomer of a dendrimer carbosiloxane tri[tri(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl dimethylsiloxy]silylpropyl.

[0209] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, a vinyl polymer having at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif comprises a tri[tri(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl dimethylsiloxy]silylpropyl carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif corresponding to one of the formulas ■ÇHS H -- 0

[0210] or il ÇHj 1 ÇHj CH, î CH, / JS ch3! ch3 ~O—Si—C2Hj—Si4~O—Si—CH-, i | 1 / 4

[0211] According to a preferred embodiment, a vinyl polymer having at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif used in the invention comprises at least one butyl acrylate monomer.

[0212] According to a preferred embodiment, a grafted vinyl polymer as defined in the present invention can be conveyed in an oil or a mixture of oil(s), preferably volatile in particular, chosen from silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils and their mixtures.

[0213] According to another particular embodiment, a silicone oil suitable for the invention may be dimethicone.

[0214] According to another particular embodiment, a hydrocarbon oil suitable for the invention may be isododecane.

[0215] Preferably, the vinyl polymer grafted with at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif usable in a composition of the invention is an acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer with INCI name: ACRYLATES / POLYTRIMETHYL SILOXYMETHACRYLATE COPOLYMER, in particular that marketed in isododecane under the name DOWSIL™ FA 4004 ID Silicone Acrylate by Dow Chemical (40% polymer in 60% isododecane) or that marketed in dimethicone under the name DOWSIL™ FA 4003 ID Silicone Acrylate by Dow Chemical (40% polymer in 60% dimethicone 2c st).

[0216] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises a vinyl polymer having at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif in an active material (dry matter) content of 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably between 1 and 5% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

[0217] Silicone acrylate polymer (without dendrimer motif)

[0218] According to another embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises, as a silicone polymer, a silicone acrylate polymer which does not comprise a dendrimer motif.

[0219] This silicone acrylate polymer is a copolymer comprising (meth)acrylic groups and polydimethylsiloxane groups.

[0220] According to the present invention, "copolymer comprising (meth)acrylic groups and polydimethylsiloxane groups" means a copolymer obtained from (a) one or more (meth)acrylic acid monomers or meth)acrylic acid ester and (b) one or more polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) chains.

[0221] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the silicone acrylate copolymer comprises at least one group selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, the acrylates or methacrylates of methyl, ethyl, stearyl, butyl, 2-ethylhexyl, and mixtures thereof.

[0222] The copolymers used in the composition of the invention are generally obtained according to the usual methods of polymerization and grafting, for example by radical polymerization (A) of a PDMS comprising at least one polymerizable radical group (for example on one or both ends of the chain) and (B) of at least one carboxylic monomer, as described for example in documents US-A-5,061,481 and US-A-5,219,560. The copolymers obtained generally have a molecular weight ranging from about 3000 to 200,000 and preferably from about 5000 to 100,000. The copolymer used in the composition of the invention can be in the form as such or dispersed in a solvent such as lower alcohols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as isopropyl alcohol, or oils such as volatile silicone oils (e.g. methyl trimethicone) or hydrocarbon oils (e.g. isododecanes).

[0223] Examples include polydimethylsiloxane-grafted acrylic acid-stearyl acrylate copolymers, polydimethylsiloxane-grafted stearyl methacrylate copolymers, polydimethylsiloxane-grafted acrylic acid-stearyl methacrylate copolymers, and polydimethylsiloxane-grafted methyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, ethyl-2-hexyl acrylate, and stearyl methacrylate copolymers, such as the copolymers marketed by SHIN-ETSU under the names KP-561® (INCI name: ACRYLATES / STEARYL ACRYLATE / DIMETHICONE METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER) or KP-541® (INCI name: ACRYLATES / DIMETHICONE AND ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL).

[0224] According to a particular and preferred method, copolymers of polydimethylsiloxane and one or more monomers selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and their esters are used, such as the products marketed by Shin Etsu under the name KP-550® and INCI name ACRYLATES / DIMETHICONE COPOLYMER AND ISODODECANE; or KP-549® and KP-579® with INCI name ACRYLATES / DIMETHICONE COPOLYMER AND METHYL TRIMETHICONE. Colouring materials

[0225] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, in particular for makeup compositions, the composition comprises at least one coloring material.

[0226] For the purposes of this invention, "colouring material" means a compound capable of producing a coloured optical effect when formulated in sufficient quantity in a suitable cosmetic medium.

[0227] A colouring material can be chosen from organic or inorganic colouring materials, optical effect materials such as mother-of-pearl, and mixtures thereof, soluble or insoluble in the oily phase of the invention.

[0228] According to a particular method, the colouring material(s) are chosen in particular from pigments, mother-of-pearl, liposoluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.

[0229] Said colouring materials may or may not be treated with a lipophilic treatment agent. The lipophilic treatment agent is in particular chosen from the group consisting of metallic soaps, N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; diisostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes, polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids, and their mixtures, in particular N-acylated amino acids or their salts.

[0230] These colouring materials, particularly when they are pigments, are generally pre-dispersed in a dispersing agent before being incorporated into the composition.

[0231] The term "pigments" means white or colored particles, mineral (inorganic) or organic, insoluble in aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting deposit. Examples include mineral pigments, organic pigments, and composite pigments (i.e., pigments based on mineral and / or organic materials).

[0232] Examples of "mineral pigments" include titanium dioxide (rutile or anatase), possibly surface-treated; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides; manganese violet; ultramarine blue; chromium oxide; hydrated chromium oxide; and ferric blue.

[0233] Examples of lip compositions include titanium dioxide; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides and manganese violet.

[0234] Among the "organic pigments", examples include D&C Red No. 19; D&C Red No. 9; D&C Red No. 22; D&C Red No. 21; D&C Red No. 28; D&C Yellow No. 6; D&C Orange No. 4; D&C Orange No. 5; D&C Red No. 27; D&C Red No. 13; D&C Red No. 7; D&C Red No. 6; D&C Yellow No. 5; D&C Red No. 36; D&C Red No. 33; D&C Orange No. 10; D&C Yellow No. 6; D&C Red No. 30; D&C Red No. 3; D&C Blue 1; carbon black and lacquers.

[0235] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises at least pigments selected from iron oxides, organic dyes and pigments, and mixtures thereof.

[0236] In particular, the colouring material(s) are present in the composition in a content ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0237] According to a particular method, the total content of colouring materials shall range from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. Alkylcellulose

[0238] According to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention does not comprise alkylcellulose.

[0239] Among the alkylcelluloses, methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses, and their mixtures, in particular ethylcelluloses, may be mentioned.

[0240] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention does not comprise ethylcellulose.

[0241] The terms "ethylcellulose film-forming polymer", "ethylcellulose polymer" or "ethylcellulose" will be used interchangeably in the rest of the description.

[0242] By "ethylcellulose polymer" according to the invention, a cellulose derivative is meant in which some of the hydroxyl groups on the repeated glucose motifs are converted into ethyl ether groups.

[0243] Ethylcellulose is an ethyl ether of cellulose, comprising a chain made up of [3-anhydroglucose] units linked together by acetal bonds. Each anhydroglucose unit has three hydroxyl groups that can be substituted by ethoxy groups. The number of ethyl ether groups can vary and is characterized by the percentage of ethoxylated substitution. Ethoxylated substitution (also called "ethyl ether content") is generally from 10 to 55%.

[0244] Examples include ethylcellulose polymers with the INCI name: ETHYLCELLULOSE, marketed under the following names:

[0245] - ETHOCEL™ references manufactured by DUPONT and distributed by the company CHEMPOINT, including, for example, ETHOCEL™ Standard 4, ETHOCEL™ Standard 7, ETHOCEL™ Standard 7 FP Premium, ETHOCEL™ Standard 10, ETHOCEL™ Standard 20, ETHOCEL™ Standard 45, ETHOCEL™ Standard 100, ETHOCEL™ Standard 100 FP Premium, with an ethoxylated substitution content of 48.0 to 49.5%;

[0246] - the AQUALON™ ETHYLCELLULOSE references of type-K, type-N and type-T, preferably type-N such as N7, N100, available from Ashland, Inc; and

[0247] - ANTARON™ ECO references available from Ashland, Inc. Other ingredients

[0248] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additional ingredient selected from antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, cosmetic actives, fillers, and mixtures thereof.

[0249] The term "fillers" means particles of any shape, including platelets, spherical or oblong particles, colorless or white particles, of mineral or organic, natural or synthetic origin, which are insoluble and dispersed in the composition medium. These fillers are used, in particular, to modify the rheology or texture of the composition.

[0250] The fillers may in particular be selected from silicas, micas, of natural or synthetic origin, kaolin, zinc and titanium oxides; calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydroxycarbonate; zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; synthetic polymer powders, such as polyethylene, polyesters, polyamides (for example nylon); polyacrylic or polymethacrylic acid powders, silicone resin powders; mineral powders such as spherical silica; spherical titanium dioxides; glass and ceramic beads; powders of organic materials of natural origin such as corn, wheat, rice starches, crosslinked or not, and mixtures thereof.

[0251] The composition according to the invention may also further comprise additional lipophilic gelling agents, additional lipophilic polymers, or C2-C5 monoalcohols.

[0252] In a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition is solid, and it preferably also comprises gelling and / or fat phase structuring agents.

[0253] Advantageously, a person skilled in the art can combine several gelling and / or texturizing agents to improve the texture and / or sensory properties of the composition upon application.

[0254] The term “fat-phase gelling agents” or “lipophilic gelling agents” refers to compounds that modify the rheology of the fat phase by forming a three-dimensional network. These gelling agents may be mineral and / or organic gelling agents.

[0255] The fat-phase structuring agents used according to the invention are in particular solid fats or fats comprising a solid fraction at 25 °C.

[0256] These structuring agents are in particular chosen from fatty esters, fatty alcohols, waxes, pasty fats, and mixtures thereof.

[0257] They will generally have a melting point ranging from 45 to 85°C, in particular from 55 to 80°C.

[0258] The melting point generally determines the temperature at which a fat (fatty substance here) changes from a solid (or frozen) state to a liquid (or soft) state.

[0259] In a particular embodiment, in the case of a solid composition according to the invention, the composition may comprise at least one fat-phase gelling and / or structuring agent distinct from said lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, selected from the group consisting of inorganic lipophilic gelling agents, organic lipophilic gelling agents, fatty alcohols, fatty esters, waxes, pasty fats, and mixtures thereof.

[0260] In the case of a solid composition, such as "inorganic lipophilic gelling agents", modified clays may be cited in particular. Modified clays (also called organomodified clays) are clays treated with compounds selected in particular from quaternary and tertiary amines, preferably quaternary amines.

[0261] Clays are in particular natural or synthetic clays selected from bentonites, especially hectorites and montmorillonites. Preferably, they shall be hectorites. Even more preferably, a hectorite modified with a quaternary alkylammonium chloride is used, said ammonium being substituted by at least one, and preferably at least two Cl4-C2O alkyl radicals, such as disteardimonium hectorite in which the ammonium comprises two methyls and two stearyls.

[0262] As a preferred modified clay, one can cite in particular a modified hectorite dispersed in an oil, for example the product with INCI name: COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE (and) DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE (and) PROPYLENE CARBONATE marketed under the name BENTONE GEL CCC V MB by the company Elementis.

[0263] Examples of "organic lipophilic gelling agents" usable in a solid composition of the invention include: - esters of dextrin and fatty acid(s), in particular unbranched such as palmitate, dextrin myristate, and mixtures thereof, notably marketed under the trade name UNIFILMA marketed by the company Chiba Flour Milling Co; - glycerol and fatty acid(s) esters, particularly C18-C24, especially glycerol and behenic acid ester (such as the NOMCORT product from KOBO); Polyglyceryl-10 behenate / eicosadioate (marketed for example under the name NOMCORT HK-P); - hydroxystearic acid, such as that marketed under the name CASID HAS; - sorbitan oleate, - glutamides, such as Octyldodecanol and Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide and Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide (AJK OD-2046), from the company Ajinomoto, - associative polymers derived from castor oil, the isophorone diisocyanate-urethane polymer derived from castor oil, - olefin(s) / styrene copolymers, alkyl poly(acrylates), - the following gelling agents with INCI names: Hydrogenated vegetable oil, marketed for example under the name DERMOFEEL VISCOLID; Castor Oil / IPDI copolymer, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, marketed for example under the name ESTOGEL M; Hydrogenated Castor Oil / Sebacic Acid Copolymer, marketed for example under the name ESTOGEL GREEN; Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Hydrogenated C6-20 Polyolefin (and) HDI / Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, marketed for example under the name OILKEMIA 5S CC PALM FREE); Sorbitan olivate, marketed for example under the name OLIVEM 900, - and their mixtures.

[0264] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises an additional organic lipophilic gelling agent of the hydroxystearic acid type.

[0265] Certain hydrogenated vegetable oils and possibly modified by isostearic acid, in particular hydrogenated rapeseed, soybean, sunflower, jojoba, coconut and castor oils, may also be considered as fat-phase gelling agents.

[0266] Examples of "fatty esters" include Behenyl Behenate, Cetyl Palmitate, Glyceryl Behenate / eicosadioate, Jojoba Esters, Stearyl Behenate, Myristyle Myristate, and mixtures thereof. These compounds generally have a melting point of 65 to 75°C.

[0267] The total fatty ester content will generally range from 1 to 20% by weight, in particular from 2 to 18% and preferably from 3 to 16% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0268] Examples of "fatty alcohols" suitable for the invention include behenyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. These fatty alcohols generally have a melting point ranging from 55°C to 75°C.

[0269] The total fatty alcohol content will generally range from 1 to 20% by weight, in particular from 2 to 18% and preferably from 3 to 16% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0270] For the purposes of this invention, "wax" means a solid compound at 25°C which has a reversible solid / liquid change of state and a melting point above 45°C.

[0271] Examples include vegetable waxes such as sunflower wax, candelilla wax, rice wax; microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, polyethylene waxes, ozokerite, carnauba wax, beeswax, products comprising a mixture of polyethylene and alcohols having 20 to 50 carbon atoms, silicone waxes, C20-C40 alkyl stearates, waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 chains such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, waxes obtained by hydrogenation esterified castor oil with a fatty alcohol, maleic anhydride and alpha-olefin copolymers, waxes obtained by metallocene catalysis and lanolin wax, and mixtures thereof.

[0272] The total wax content will generally range from 1 to 20% by weight, in particular from 2 to 18% and preferably from 3 to 16% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0273] "Pasty fats" usable as fat phase structuring agents are defined as fats with reversible liquid / solid change of state, exhibiting in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization and comprising at a temperature of 23°C a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

[0274] Examples include fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives, polyol(s) and diacid dimer esters of fatty acids, or of one of its esters, in particular diol and diacid dimer esters, where appropriate, esterified on their free alcohol(s) or acid(s) function(s) by acid radicals or alcohols, in particular dimer dilinoleate esters; hydrogenated castor oil esters; oligomeric glycerol esters, in particular diglycerol esters, polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, jojoba esters, olive unsaponifiables, shea unsaponifiables; vegetable butters such as murumuru butter, mango butter, shea butter, cocoa butter, cupuaçu butter; and mixtures thereof.

[0275] According to a particular mode, as organic lipophilic gelling agents usable in the composition in particular solid of the invention, we may mention in particular Octyldodecanol and Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide and Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide (AJK OD-2046).

[0276] The total content of distinct lipophilic gelling agents of the organic-type lipophilic polycondensate will generally range from 1 to 50% by weight, in particular from 2 to 40% by weight, and especially from 3 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0277] The total content of fat-phase structuring agents will generally range from 5 to 50% by weight, in particular from 8 to 40% by weight, in particular from 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0278] A person skilled in the art will be able to adjust the % according to the nature of the structuring agents and the hardness required for the composition.

[0279] In the case of a liquid composition according to the invention, it may advantageously be used as additional lipophilic gelling agents in particular modified clays, organic lipophilic gelling agents and mixtures thereof.

[0280] Modified clays (also called organomodified clays) are clays treated with compounds selected in particular from quaternary and tertiary amines, preferably quaternary amines.

[0281] Clays are in particular natural or synthetic clays selected from bentonites, especially hectorites and montmorillonites. Preferably, they shall be hectorites. Even more preferably, a hectorite modified with a quaternary alkylammonium chloride is used, said ammonium being substituted by at least one, and preferably at least two alkyl radicals in Cl4-C20, such as disteardimonium hectorite in which the ammonium comprises two methyls and two stearyls.

[0282] As a preferred modified clay, one can cite in particular a modified hectorite dispersed in an oil, for example the product with INCI name: COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE (and) DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE (and) PROPYLENE CARBONATE marketed under the name BENTONE GEL CCC V MB by the company Elementis.

[0283] Additional lipophilic polymers may include, in particular: - Polyolefins, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, and preferably polymers or copolymers of alkenes comprising 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as polybutenes, polyisobutenes, polydecenes, - styrene and indene copolymers, such as the compound with INCI name hydrogenated styrene / methyl styrene / indene copolymer (Regalite RI 100 CG), - plant resins, such as candelilla resin, - silicone polymers such as silicone acrylate polymers, polyalkylsilsesquioxanes comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and - their mixtures.

[0284] Other additional lipophilic polymers that can be used in the composition according to the invention include the following products with the INCI name euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax extract (marketed, for example, under the name Candellila resin E-2), Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax (marketed, for example, under the name TOWAX 1B5), polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, IPDI Copolymer (marketed, for example, under the name POLYDERM PPLDGDIS), polybutene (marketed, for example, under the name POLYBUT 200), triacontanyl PVP (marketed, for example, under the name ANTARON WP-660), dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate (marketed, for example, under the name LUSPLAN DD-DA7), trimethylpentanediol / adipic acid / glycerin crosspolymer (marketed, for example, under the name WETFILM MB), and Shorea Robusta Resin. and Octyldodecanol (marketed for example under the name KAHLRESIN 6723).

[0285] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention shall comprise at least one C2-C5 monoalcohol, in particular ethanol.

[0286] According to a particular mode, the composition will not include C2-C5 monoalcohols, such as ethanol.

[0287] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises:

[0288] - an ester-terminated polyamide and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide),

[0289] - a sugar ester, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB),

[0290] - a volatile oil, preferably a hydrocarbon volatile oil such as a linear C9-C14 alkane

[0291] - possibly in addition at least one coloring agent,

[0292] - possibly also a phenylated or non-phenylated silicone non-volatile oil, in particular a phenylated silicone non-volatile oil comprising at a dimethicone fragment such as a phenylated silicone oil of formula (VI) Even - Me— S “h ' Me 1 Me Jy . (VI) in which ShCH,.),

[0293] - Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OsiMe3,

[0294] - y varies between 1 and 1000, and

[0295] - z varies between 1 and 1000,

[0296] more specifically trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone, and

[0297] - possibly in addition a silicone polymer selected from silicone polymers-

[0298] polyurethane and silicone-acrylate polymers, in particular a silicone-polyurethane polymer, such as a silicone-polyurethane polymer which is the reaction product - of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the formula structure (Ib) (Ib) OH“CH2“CH2“CK2-Si— If CHj it

[0299] in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50,

[0300] - with a diisocyanate compound, in particular selected from the group consisting of the 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexyl methane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations.

[0301] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises:

[0302] - an ester-terminated polyamide obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, plus particularly a linoleic acid dimer, on ethylenediamine, the remaining acidic endings being esterified by cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, or their mixture, and having the INCI name: ETHYLENEDIAMINE / STEARYL DIMER DILINOLEATE COPOLYMER,

[0303] - a sugar ester, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB),

[0304] - a volatile oil, preferably a hydrocarbon volatile oil such as a linear C9-C14 alkane

[0305] - possibly in addition at least one coloring agent,

[0306] - possibly also a phenylated or non-phenylated silicone non-volatile oil, in particular a phenyl-siliconized non-volatile oil comprising at least one dimethicone fragment such as a phenylated silicone oil of formula (VI) Alt' । Me—Si4"O Me1 (VI) ■ S i(C IL )-,

[0307] in which

[0308] - Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OsiMe3,

[0309] - y varies between 1 and 1000, and

[0310] - z varies between 1 and 1000,

[0311] more particularly trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone, and

[0312] - possibly in addition a silicone-polyurethane polymer, such as a polymer silicone-polyurethane, which is the reaction product

[0313] - of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized by hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the formula structure (Ib) CH3 j" CH3 j CHj (Ib) OH ÇHj “Œj ”CH3~"S i O~j™S i--O Œ2~ CH2"~ CH j- OH CH3 [ Œj J CH3

[0314] in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50,

[0315] - with a diisocyanate compound, in particular selected from the group consisting of the 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexyl methane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations.

[0316] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises:

[0317]

[0318]

[0319]

[0320]

[0321] - a poly(ester-amide) with an ester ending obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid and neopentyl glycol, on ethylenediamine; the remaining acid endings being esterified by stearyl alcohol, and having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8, - a sugar ester, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB), - a volatile oil, preferably a hydrocarbon volatile oil such as a linear C9-C14 alkane, - possibly also at least one coloring agent, - possibly also a non-volatile silicone oil, phenylated or non-phenylated, in particular a phenyl-siliconized non-volatile oil comprising at least one dimethicone fragment such as a phenylated silicone oil of formula (VI) Me F Me—S q—O' Me1 Me gold - ■If—— I (VI)

[0322]

[0323]

[0324]

[0325]

[0326]

[0327]

[0328] in which - Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OsiMe3, - y varies between 1 and 1000, and - z varies between 1 and 1000, more specifically trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone, and - possibly also a silicone-polyurethane polymer, such as a silicone-polyurethane polymer which is the reaction product - of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized by hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the structure of formula (Ib) OH~~CH2 "QVCHj CH3 J" CH3 ~Si—oj-Si-T i ! CHj L ch3 "| y —CH2~CH2~ŒrOH J. ch3 (Ib)

[0329]

[0330] in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50, - with a diisocyanate compound, in particular chosen from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexyl methane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations. According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises:

[0332]

[0333]

[0334]

[0335]

[0336]

[0337]

[0338]

[0339]

[0340]

[0341]

[0342] - a poly(ester-amide) with an ester ending obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid and neopentyl glycol, on ethylenediamine; the remaining acid endings being esterified by stearyl alcohol, and having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8, - a sugar ester, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB), - a volatile oil, preferably a hydrocarbon volatile oil such as a linear C9-C14 alkane, - a phenyl or non-phenyl silicone non-volatile oil, in particular a phenyl silicone non-volatile oil comprising at least one dimethicone fragment such as a phenyl silicone oil of formula (VI) Me F Me— If Me1 Me -O (VI) in which - Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OsiMe3, - y varies between 1 and 1000, and - z varies between 1 and 1000, more specifically trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone, - possibly also at least one coloring agent, and - possibly also a silicone-polyurethane polymer, such as a silicone-polyurethane polymer which is the reaction product - of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized by hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the structure of formula (Ib) (Ib) OH~CH2~Œ2~Œ2-Si^O~^Sî If CHj 13 in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50, - with a diisocyanate compound, in particular chosen from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexyl methane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations. According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises:

[0344] - a poly(ester-amide) with an ester termination obtained by condensation of a diacid in C36, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid and neopentyl glycol, on ethylene diamine; the remaining acidic endings being esterified by stearyl alcohol, and having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8,

[0345] - a sugar ester, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB),

[0346] - a volatile oil, preferably a hydrocarbon volatile oil such as a linear C9-C14 alkane

[0347] - a phenylated or non-phenylated silicone non-volatile oil, in particular an oil non-volatile phenyl-siliconized comprising at least one dimethicone fragment such as a phenyl-siliconized oil of formula (VI) Me F Me— If Me1 (VI)

[0348] in which

[0349] - Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OsiMe3,

[0350] - y varies between 1 and 1000, and

[0351] - z varies between 1 and 1000,

[0352] more specifically trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone,

[0353] - a silicone-polyurethane polymer, such as a silicone-polyurethane polymer which is the reaction product

[0354] - of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized by hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the formula structure (Ib) CHj F 1 OH™0¾ ©4™O “J™Si ~ I II CHj L CH3 J œ3

[0355] in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50,

[0356] - with a diisocyanate compound, in particular selected from the group consisting of the 1,6-Hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexyl methane-4,4'-diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations, and

[0357] - possibly in addition at least one coloring matter.

[0358] In these different embodiments, the content of each ingredient, relative to the total weight of the composition, will advantageously range from:

[0359] - 1 to 30% by weight of active material (dry matter) of lipophilic polycondensate of polyamide type,

[0360] - 2 to 20% by weight of active material (dry matter) of promoting compound the adhesion of the composition to keratinous materials,

[0361] - 5 to 40% by total weight of volatile oil(s),

[0362] - 2 to 20% by total weight of coloring matter(s),

[0363] - 10 to 50% by total weight of silicone-coated non-volatile oil(s),

[0364] - 2 to 25% by weight of active material (dry matter) of silicone polymer- polyurethane.

[0365] Thus, in a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises:

[0366] - 1 to 30% by weight of active material (dry matter) of lipophilic polycondensate of polyamide type,

[0367] - 2 to 20% by weight of active material (dry matter) of promoting compound the adhesion of the composition to keratinous materials, and / or

[0368] - 5 to 40% by total weight of volatile oil(s). GALENIQUE

[0369] The composition of the invention is an anhydrous composition.

[0370] In particular, it will be a skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials, in particular a skin composition such as an eyeliner, eyeshadow, foundation, foundation stick, concealer or corrector, blush or cheek color, or a composition for eyelashes such as mascara, or preferably a composition for lips such as a gloss, lip lacquer, lip balm or lipstick stick.

[0371] According to a first mode, it will be a liquid composition.

[0372] In particular, it will then be a liquid composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular a composition for the skin such as an eyeliner, an eyeshadow, a foundation or a concealer or corrector, or a composition for the eyelashes such as a mascara, or preferably a composition for the lips such as a gloss or a lip lacquer.

[0373] According to a second mode, it will be a solid composition.

[0374] Thus, according to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention is a solid composition, particularly in the form of a stick, for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular a solid composition for the skin such as an eyeshadow, a skin stick (in particular a foundation stick, a concealer, an eyeshadow stick, an eyebrow pencil or an eye pencil), or preferably a solid composition for the lips such as a lip balm (especially a lip balm or a lipstick stick).

[0375] The different embodiments of the compositions according to the invention are described above. COSMETIC PROCESS

[0376] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising the application to said keratinous materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips, of a composition as defined above.

[0377] When applied to the skin or lips, the compositions of the invention form a glossy, non-transfer film.

[0378] The present invention will now be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. Unless otherwise indicated, percentages are expressed as weight of raw material relative to the total weight of the composition. EXAMPLES

[0379] Example 1: Evaluation of gloss and non-transfer

[0380] The gloss and non-transfer properties of the compositions described in the examples below were evaluated according to the following protocols. Glossy appearance

[0381] The gloss of the solid compositions was evaluated according to the following protocol.

[0382] It consists of applying 3 layers of the composition to each lip, and, after 10 minutes, to visually assess the shine of the composition on the lips.

[0383] They are assigned ratings according to their level of brightness, the categories being determined using the commercial solid compositions below as references (controls).

[0384] Very brilliant or 'Vinyl': YSL Candy Glaze lip gloss stick (Mintel ID: 11690232)

[0385] Glossy: Dior Addict Moisturizing Gloss Lipstick (ID: 11718154)

[0386] Satin: Dior Rouge satin finish COUTURE COLOUR LIPSTICK (ID: 11440790)

[0387] Matte: Intense Couture Color Transfer-Proof Lipstick (ID: 11188444) Non-transfer aspect

[0388] In parallel, the compositions were also evaluated on the non-transfer property according to the following protocol.

[0389] It consists of applying 3 layers of composition to each lip, and, after 10 minutes, placing a glass slide on the lips. The transfer of each composition onto the glass slide can then be evaluated.

[0390] The transfer of each composition is evaluated by visual observation of the residual deposit on the glass slide and notations are assigned to them.

[0391] Non-transfer: no transfer

[0392] Low transfer: light transfer

[0393] Transfer: large transfer

[0394] According to the invention, compositions are sought that provide improved non-transfer properties.

[0395] According to the invention, compositions are sought to obtain a more satin finish than the Rouge Dior satin finish COUTURE COLOUR LIPSTICK reference, or even glossy compositions like the Dior Addict moisturizing glossy lipstick or very glossy ones like the YSL Candy Glaze lip gloss stick, but having in addition an equivalent or even improved 'non-transfer' property compared to the Intense Couture Colour Transfer-Proof Lipstick (non-transfer but matte reference).

[0396] Example 2: Solid lipsticks according to the invention

[0397] Different solid lipsticks according to the invention have been formulated, respectively:

[0398] Compositions 1 and 3: with polyamide-type polycondensate, adhesion-promoting compound and volatile oil, but without silicone oil (without demixing) and with silicone-polyurethane polymer,

[0399] Composition 2: with polyamide-type polycondensate, adhesion-promoting compound and volatile oil, and furthermore phenylated silicone oil (but without silicone-polyurethane polymer),

[0400] Compositions 4 and 5: similar to composition 2, but with silicone-polyurethane polymer,

[0401] Composition 6: similar to composition 5 but with non-phenylated silicone oil,

[0402] Compositions 7, 8 and 9: similar to composition 4 but with different silicone-acrylate polymers,

[0403] Composition 10 and 11: close to composition 4 but with different shiny viscous oils.

[0404] Unless otherwise stated, percentages are expressed as weight of raw material relative to the final composition.

[0405] [Tables 1] Ingrédients (noms INCI et noms commerciaux) Composition 1

[218] Composition 2 [ 219] Composition 3 [ 220] Al Dibutyl alkoyl glutamides (2 0% au total) (and) Octyldode canol (80%) 10% 10% 10% (AJK-OD2046) A2 Polyamide-8 (SP OLEOCRAFT LP-20 M BAL-PA-(MV) MB) 20% 20% 20% A2 Sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB 100) 15 % 15 % 15 % A2 Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimet hicone (BELSIL PDM 1000) - qsplOO - A2 coco-caprylate / caprate (CETIOL C 5C MB) 14,87 % 24,87% 2,75% A2 Disteardimonium hectorite (1 5%), propylène carbonate (5 %), coco caprylate caprate (8 0%) hectorite, propylène car bonate (BENTONE GEL CCC V M B) 2,5 % 2,5 % 2,5 % B Pigments 2,10% 2,10% 6,05 % C C9-12 alcane (VEGELIGHT SILK DESO DORISE) 10,5 % 10,5 % 18,7 % C Bis-hydroxypropyl dimethico ne / SMDI copolymer (45%) d ans isododecane (qs 100) (SILMER UR-5050) 25 % - 25 %

[0406] [Tableaux2] Ingredients (INCI and trade names) Composition 4

[224] Composition 5

[228] Composition 6

[232] Al Dibutyl alkoyl glutamides (20% total) (and) Octyldodecanol (80%) (AJK-OD2046) 10% 10% 10% A2 Polyamide-8 20% 20% 20% (SP OLEOCRAFT LP-20 M BAL-PA-(MV) MB) A2 Sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB 100) 15% 15% 15% A2 Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimet hicone (BELSIL PDM 1000) qsplOO qsplOO - A2 Dimethicone with viscosity 50 0 is (MIRASIL DM500) - - qsplOO A2 coco-caprylate / caprate (CETIOL C 5C MB) 7.75% - - A2 Disteardimonium hectorite (1 5%), propylene carbonate (5%), coco caprylate caprate (8 0%) hectorite, propylene car bonate (BENTONE GEL CCC VMB) 2.5% 2.5% 2.5% B Pigments 6.05% 6.05% 6.05% C C9-12 alkane (VEGELIGHT SILK DESO DORISE) 18.7% 18.7% 18.7% C Bis-hydroxypropyl dimethico ne / SMDI copolymer (45%) d years isododecane (qs 100) (SILMER UR-5050) 5% 5% 5%

[0407] [Tables3] Ingrédients (noms INCI et noms c ommerciaux) Composition 7

[244] Composition 8

[245] Composition 9

[254] Al Dibutyl alkoyl glutamides (20% au total) (and) Octyldodecanol (80%) (AJK-OD2046) 10% 10% 10% A2 Polyamide-8 20% 20% 20% (SP OLEOCRAFT LP-20 MBAL-P A-(MV) MB) A2 Sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB 100) 15 % 15 % 15 % A2 Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone (BELSIL PDM 1000) qsplOO qsplOO qsplOO A2 coco-caprylate / caprate (CETIOL C 5C MB) 7,75 % 17,1 % 17,1 % A2 Disteardimonium hectorite (15%), p ropylène carbonate (5%), coco capr ylate caprate (80%) (BENTONE GEL CCC V MB) 2,5 % 2,5 % 2,5 % B Pigments 6,05 % 3,48 % 3,48 % C C9-12 alcane (VEGELIGHT SILK DESODORIS E) 18,7 % 12,02 % 12,02 % C Bis-hydroxypropyl dimethicone / S MDI copolymer 1,97 % MA* 2,25 % MA* - C Acrylates / Polytrimethylsiloxy-meth acrylate Copolymer (40%) dans Iso dodecane (60%) (DOWSIL FA-4004) - - 5 % Isododécane - 2,75% - Dimethicone 3% - -

[0408] [Tableaux4] Ingredients (INCI and trade names) Composition 10

[251] Composition 11

[256] Al Dibutyl alkyl glutamides (20%) (and) Octyldodecanol (80%) (AJK-OD2046) 10% 10% A2 Polyamide-8 (SP OLEOCRAFT LP-20 MBAL-PA-(MV) MB) 20% 20% A2 Sucrose acetate isobutyrate 15% 15% (SAIB 100) Phytosteryl / Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate (ELDEW PS-203) 5% - Elianthus Annuus (sunflower) seed oil unsapo nifiables (PXD PS TT-02) - 5% A2 Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone (BELSIL PDM 1000) qsplOO qsplOO A2 coco-caprylate / caprate (CETIOL C 5C MB) 12.1% 12.1% A2 Disteardimonium hectorite (15%), propylene c arbonate (5%), coco caprylate caprate (80%) (BENTONE GEL CCC V MB) 2.5% 2.5% B Pigments 3.48% 3.48% C C9-12 alkane (VEGELIGHT SILK DEODORIZED) 12.02% 12.02% C Bis-hydroxypropyl dimethicone / SMDI copolymer (45%) in isododecane (55%) (SILMER UR-5050) 5% 5%

[0409] The compositions are prepared according to the following procedure:

[0410] Phase Al is melted at 100°C, then phase A2 is melted at 90°C.

[0411] Phase A2 is then added to phase Al and homogenized at 90°C.

[0412] We then add to phase B, and homogenize.

[0413] Finally, phase C is added.

[0414] The compositions are poured at 85°C into suitable molds.

[0415] The compositions obtained are solid lip products.

[0416] When applied to the lips, the compositions provide makeup evaluated, according to the protocol of example 1, as having good shine and non-transfer properties.

[0417] These results show that the presence of polyamide-8, combined with an adhesion-enhancing compound and a volatile oil, gives good gloss and non-transfer properties to the lip products obtained, with gloss and non-transfer performance further improved in the presence of a phenylated silicone volatile oil (composition 2). Example 3#: Comparative Examples

[0418] The effect of the combination of polyamide-8, a compound promoting the adhesion of the composition and a volatile oil (compositions 2 and 4 according to the invention) was compared to compositions not comprising volatile oil, as illustrated in control composition 12 and to compositions not comprising sucrose acetate isobutyrate (adhesion-promoting compound), as illustrated in control compositions 13 and 14.

[0419] Thus, composition 12 (comparative) is similar to composition 2 (according to the invention) in which the volatile oil has been removed.

[0420] Composition 13 (comparative) is similar to composition 2 (according to the invention) in which sucrose acetate isobutyrate has been removed, and composition 14 (comparative) is similar to composition 4 (according to the invention) in which sucrose acetate isobutyrate has been removed.

[0421] Unless otherwise stated, percentages are expressed as weight of raw material relative to the final composition.

[0422] [Tables5] Ingredients (INCI names and trade names) Composition 2

[219] (as invented) Control composition 12

[265] (comparative without volatile oil) Control composition 13

[222] (comparative without SAIB) Al Dibutyl alkyl glutamides (20%) (and) Octyldodecanol (80%) (AJK-OD2046) 10% 10% 10% A2 Polyamide-8 (SP OLEOCRAFT LP-20 M BAL-PA-(MV) MB) 20% 20% 20% A2 Sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB 100) 15% 15% - A2 Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone (BELSIL PDM 1000) qsplOO qsplOO qsplOO A3 Ethylcellulose (ETHOCEL STD 7) - - 3.75% A3 Octydodecanol (RISONOL) - - 11.25% A2 coco-caprylate / caprate (CETIOL C 5C MB) 24.87% 8.74% 12.75% A2 Disteardimonium hectorite (15%), propylene carbonate (5%), coco-caprylate / caprate (qs 100%) (BENTONE GEL CCC VMB) 2.5% 2.5% 2.5% B Pigments 2.10% 7% 6.05% C C9-12 alkane (VEGELIGHT SILK DESO DORISE) 10.5% - 18.7% C Hydrogenated polydecene (DEKANEX 2006 FG) - 16.8% - Gloss Gloss Satin Gloss Non-transfer Non-transfer Low-transfer Transfer

[0423] [Tableauxô] Ingredients (INCI names and commercial names) Composition 4 (according to the invention)

[224] Control composition 14

[223] (comparative without SAIB) Al Dibutyl alkoyl glutamides (20%) (year d) Octyldodecanol (80%) (AJK-OD2046) 10% 10% A2 Polyamide-8 (SP OLEOCRAFT LP-20 MBAL-P A-(MV) MB) 20% 20% A2 Sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB 100) 15% - A2 Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone (BELSIL PDM 1000) qsplOO qsplOO A3 Ethylcellulose (ETHOCEL STD 7) - 3.75% A3 Octydodecanol (RISONOL) - 11.25% A2 coco-caprylate / caprate (CETIOL C 5C MB) 7.75% 12.75% A2 Disteardimonium hectorite (15%), propylene carbonate (5%), coco-caprylate / caprate (qs 100%) (BENTONE GEL CCC V MB) 2.5% 2.5% B Pigments 6.05% 6.05% C C9-12 alkane (VEGELIGHT SILK DESODORISE) 18.7% 18.7% C Bis-hydroxypropyl dimethicone / SM DI copolymer (45%) in isododecane (qs 100) (SILMER UR-5050) 5% 5% Gloss Satin Gloss Non-transfer Non-transfer Transfer

[0424] Compositions 12, 13 and 14 are prepared according to the following operating procedures.

[0425] For composition 12, the Al phase is melted at 100°C, then the phase A2 at 90°C.

[0426] Phase A2 is then added to phase Al and homogenized at 90°C.

[0427] We then add to phase B, and homogenize.

[0428] Finally, phase C is added.

[0429] The compositions are poured at 85°C into suitable molds.

[0430] For compositions 13 and 14, a concentrated pre-gel of 20% ethylcellulose A3 is prepared (ethylcellulose is dispersed in octyldodecanol under stirring at 90°C), and is allowed to cool under stirring.

[0431] Phase Al is melted at 100°C, then phase A2 (including previously prepared phase A3) is melted at 90°C.

[0432] Phase A2 is then added to phase Al and homogenized at 90°C.

[0433] We then add to phase B, and homogenize.

[0434] Finally, phase C is added.

[0435] The compositions are poured at 85°C into suitable molds.

[0436] The compositions obtained are solid lip products.

[0437] When applied to the lips, comparative compositions 13 and 14 (without sucrose acetate isobutyrate) produce a makeup finish evaluated, according to the protocol of Example 1, as glossy but transfer-resistant, confirming that only the combination of a lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, of an adhesion-enhancing compound chosen in particular from the group consisting of copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene comprising 2 to 20 carbon atoms, sugar esters, branched dextrin esters, and mixtures thereof, and of a volatile oil makes it possible to obtain a product with the desired gloss and non-transfer properties.

[0438] When applied to the lips, comparative composition 12 (without volatile oils) produces a makeup finish evaluated, according to the protocol of Example 1, as satin and low-transfer. Compared to composition 2

[219] according to the invention, evaluated as glossy and non-transferable (which differs from comparative composition 12 only by the presence of volatile oils), this comparative product confirms the importance of volatile oils in obtaining a product with the desired glossy and non-transferable properties.

Claims

Demands

1. An anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least: - a lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, - a compound promoting the adhesion of the composition to keratinous materials chosen in particular from the group consisting of: • copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkenes comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, • sugar esters, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB), • branched esters of dextrin, • and mixtures thereof, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB), - a volatile oil, and - optionally in addition at least one coloring matter.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type is selected from ester-terminated polyamides, in particular an ester-terminated polyamide obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a linoleic acid dimer, on ethylenediamine, the remaining acidic terminations being esterified by cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, or a mixture thereof, and having the INCI name: ETHYLENEDIAMINE / STEARYL DIMER DILINOLEATE COPOLYMER; tertiary amide-terminated polyamides; polyalkyleneoxy-terminated polyamides; ester-terminated poly(ester-amides); and mixtures thereof; in particular an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a hydrogenated linoleic acid and neopentyl glycol dimer, on ethylenediamine;the remaining acidic endings being esterified by stearyl alcohol, and having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8.;

3. A cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the volatile oil(s) are hydrocarbon volatile oils selected from C8-C16 branched alkanes, C9-C14 linear alkanes, esters, optionally hydroxylated, in particular C8-Ci6 branched esters, ethers, dialkoxymethane, carbonates, and mixtures thereof, preferably C8-Ci6 branched alkanes, C9-C14 linear alkanes, and mixtures thereof, preferably again C9-C14 linear alkanes.

4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type is present in an amount of active material ranging from 1 to 35% by weight, better from 2 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the compound promoting the adhesion of the composition to the materials is in an amount of active material ranging from 2 to 20% by weight, better from 5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the total content of volatile oil(s), in particular volatile hydrocarbon oil(s), in the composition of the invention is from 5% to 40% by weight, preferably from 15% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it further comprises a phenylated or non-phenylated silicone non-volatile oil, in particular a phenylated silicone non-volatile oil, preferably comprising at least one dimethicone fragment, in particular selected from trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl dimethicones, tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxanes and mixtures thereof, preferably a phenylated silicone oil of formula (VI) - (VI) Xk | r OR'~ M©—S j H— 0—Si —J--0—; Si--0----Sis C FL L 1 1 U 1 Mc Me L Ph in which Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents an -OsiMe3 group, - y varies between 1 and 1000, and z varies between 1 and 1000, in particular trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone.

8. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it further comprises a silicone polymer selected from silicone-polyurethane polymers and silicone-acrylate polymers, in particular a silicone-polyurethane polymer, preferably a silicone-polyurethane polymer which is the reaction product of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the formula structure (Ib) CHj f CH3 1 CK, I II j 1 | 1 1 CH, J Œ3 a in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and more preferably still between 10 and 50, - with a diisocyanate compound, in particular chosen from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexyl methane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate,and their combinations.

9. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that said cosmetic composition is solid, and preferably further comprises at least one oil-phase structuring agent, selected in particular from the group consisting of fatty alcohols, fatty esters, waxes, organic lipophilic gelling agents, and mixtures thereof.

10. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that said cosmetic composition does not comprise alkylcellulose, in particular does not comprise ethylcellulose.

11. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it is a skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials, in particular a skin composition such as eyeliner, eyeshadow, foundation, foundation stick, concealer or corrector, blush or cheek powder, or an eyelash composition such as mascara, or preferably a lip composition such as a lip gloss, lip lacquer, lip balm or lipstick stick.

12. A cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials comprising the application, on the keratinous materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips, of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11.