Silicone substitute and topical compositions containing it

Abstract

The present invention relates to a silicone substitute consisting of a mixture comprising a polyol and a polyester of glycerol and polycarboxylate units, a cosmetic composition comprising this substitute and their uses.

Description

Title of the invention: Silicone substitute and topical compositions comprising it. FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to a silicone substitute solution for topical dermatological and / or cosmetic applications.

[0002] It is difficult for a person skilled in the art to find an alternative to silicones that is good for humans and the planet with sensory benefits that are equal to or improved compared with silicones.

[0003] Silicones are widely used ingredients in cosmetics due to the numerous benefits they provide, particularly sensory ones, such as improved spreadability, a soft feel, a film-forming effect, and better penetration of the formulation. The most commonly used silicones in cosmetic formulations are dimethicones, cyclomethicones, and phenyl trimethicones. Silicones are widely used in personal care compositions, especially conditioners, shampoos, and body washes, to enhance the perceived softness of these compositions.

[0004] However, the use of silicones is not without impact on humans and the environment: for example, cyclotetrasiloxane is classified as a category 3 reprotoxic substance; silicones are also very difficult to biodegrade, or even non-biodegradable, and can generate microplastics with a significant environmental impact. Some of them are even considered highly persistent and highly bioaccumulative, such as cyclotetrasiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane, with their dosage regulated in Europe in rinse-off products since January 31, 2020.

[0005] There is therefore a need to find alternatives to silicones without impact on humans and the environment while maintaining, or even improving, the sensory benefits of silicones. STATE OF THE ART

[0006] The cosmetics industry has made efforts to meet this need with various solutions such as alkanes described in application WO 2009 / 064790, and olefin / acrylic acid copolymers detailed in US patent 8,715,630, but these are derived from petrochemicals and have a significant environmental impact. Other solutions have emerged based on polyester, as in US application 2005 / 260150, based on polysaccharides, polyols, and another application-dependent constituent described in application EP 4,005,549, or based on a polymer ester and a non-polymer ester. detailed polymer in application EP 3 360 600. But to date there is still no alternative that is both good for Men and Planet with sensory benefits that are the same as or improved compared to silicones. Description of the invention

[0007] The present invention overcomes the problems of the prior art by providing a mixture with sensory properties similar to silicones, particularly those of cyclopentasiloxane. This mixture comprises a polyester and a polyol. The polyester is a polyester whose constituent units include glycerol-derived units and polycarboxylate units. This polyester is also called glycerol-polycarboxylate polyester. The mixture of the invention is useful to cosmetic formulators as a total or partial replacement for silicones, particularly cyclopentasiloxane, both immediately during the application of the composition containing it and afterward, during the drying of the composition. It therefore constitutes a substitute for silicones. This mixture, or substitute, also has the advantage of being of natural origin, biodegradable, and / or biocompatible.

[0008] One of the objectives of the present invention is to provide the cosmetics industry, as well as other industries that use silicone compounds, with a suitable raw material, advantageously of natural origin, which can be used as a substitute for silicones, in particular for cyclopentasiloxane.

[0009] The invention relates to a silicone substitute consisting of a mixture comprising a polyol and a polyester of glycerol and polycarboxylate units.

[0010] In the silicone substitute, the polyester mass ratio of glycerol and polycarboxylate units: polyol advantageously varies from 1:99 to 99:1, preferably from 5:95 to 80:20.

[0011] In the silicone substitute, the polyester of glycerol and polycarboxylate units advantageously exhibits one or more of the following characteristics:

[0012] - an average number-average molar mass (Mn) greater than or equal to 600 g / mol, of preference ranging from 700 g / mol to 1500 g / mol;

[0013] - a dispersion D less than 3, preferably ranging from 1.05 to 2.5.

[0014] Glycerol and polycarboxylate unit polyester is advantageously a polyester obtained by polymerization of glycerol and a dicarboxylic acid.

[0015] The polyester of glycerol and polycarboxylate units is advantageously poly(glycerol sebacate).

[0016] The polyol is advantageously an alkanediol, such as 1,3-propanediol, 2,3-butanediol or 1,2-hexanediol.

[0017] The invention also relates to a composition for topical application, comprising the substitute according to the invention and any cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable ingredient.

[0018] The composition advantageously comprises from 0.01% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of the substitute according to the invention.

[0019] The composition advantageously comprises, in relation to the total weight of the composition, less than 0.1% by weight of silicone.

[0020] The composition is advantageously in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, a water-in-oil emulsion or in the form of anhydrous mixtures such as sticks.

[0021] The invention also relates to the use of a mixture according to the invention as a substitute for silicones.

[0022] The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method for the skin and / or hair, comprising the application to the skin and / or hair of a composition according to the invention.

[0023] The invention also relates to the use of a mixture according to the invention in a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition to improve the sensory properties of the composition, advantageously to improve at least one of the following properties of the composition:

[0024] - spreading;

[0025] - skin penetration;

[0026] - soft touch;

[0027] - film-forming. DEFINITIONS

[0028] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “a” or “an” means “one or more” or “at least one”.

[0029] For the purposes of the present invention, a range of values ​​designated by the expression "between a and b" represents the range of values ​​from greater than strictly a, to less than strictly b (that is to say excluding the bounds a and b), while any range of values ​​designated by the expression "from a to b" represents the range of values ​​from a to b, that is to say including the strict bounds a and b.

[0030] A (Cx-Cy)alkanediyl group is a divalent, saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon group comprising x to y carbon atoms.

[0031] By "biocompatible" is meant that which is tolerated by the organism.

[0032] By “biodegradable” is meant that which is capable of being decomposed by living organisms.

[0033] “Personal care” refers to compositions intended to be applied topically to a person (including in the mouth, ears and cavities) (nasal, but not ingested). Examples of personal care compositions include skin care products (e.g., face creams, moisturizers, leave-in and rinse-out lotions, sunscreens, foundation, mascara, eyeliner, lipstick, cleansers, and others) and hair care products (including shampoos, leave-in and rinse-out conditioners, styling gels, and hairsprays). For example, a personal care composition might be a shampoo, a rinse-out conditioner, a leave-in conditioner, or a shower gel.

[0034] The expression "cosmetically acceptable" refers to ingredients generally used in dermatological or cosmetic compositions such as personal care compositions and is intended to emphasize that toxic materials when present in the quantities generally found in dermatological or cosmetic compositions are not considered to be part of the present invention.

[0035] The expression "silicone-free" means that the composition according to the invention does not contain silicone, or that the silicone(s) present in the composition are present in a total content of less than or equal to 0.1% by weight, preferably less than 0.05% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition is silicone-free (0%).

[0036] By "silicone" is meant all organosilicon polymers or oligomers with linear or cyclic, branched or cross-linked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and consisting essentially of a repetition of principal motifs in which silicon atoms are linked together by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond -Si-O-Si-), with hydrocarbon radicals possibly substituted, being directly linked via a carbon atom to said silicon atoms; and more particularly dialkylsiloxane polymers or cyclic siloxanes.

[0037] The compounds mentioned in the description may be of fossil origin or bio-based. In the latter case, they may be partially or totally derived from biomass or obtained from renewable raw materials derived from biomass. Similarly, the compounds mentioned may also come from the recycling of materials already used, that is to say, they may be partially or totally derived from a recycling process, or obtained from raw materials themselves derived from a recycling process. This includes, in particular, monomers, specifically glycerol, dicarboxylic acid monomer, dicarboxylic acid diester monomer, and polyols. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0038] The invention relates to a silicone substitute comprising a polyol and a polyester.

[0039] Polyester: Glycerol and polycarboxylate unit polyester

[0040] Polyester is a polyester whose constituent units include units derived from glycerol and polycarboxylate units. This polyester is also called glycerol and polycarboxylate unit polyester.

[0041] Polyester) advantageously has one or more of the following characteristics:

[0042] - an average number-average molar mass (Mn) greater than or equal to 600 g / mol, of preference ranging from 700 g / mol to 1500 g / mol;

[0043] - a dispersion D less than 3, preferably ranging from 1.05 to 2.5.

[0044] The number-average molar mass (Mn), the mass-average molar mass (Mw), and the dispersity (also called polydispersity and denoted D, which is the ratio Mw / Mn), can be measured in a known manner by size exclusion chromatography (SEC) analysis, in particular as described below.

[0045] Advantageously, the molar ratio of units derived from glycerol / polycarboxylate units varies from 1 / 2 to 10 / 1.

[0046] Glycerol is a triol with the following formula: Qjq ho^A^oh

[0047] Polycarboxylate units can be derived from a dicarboxylic acid or a dicarboxylic acid diester.

[0048] Thus, polyester is obtained by polymerization of the glycerol monomer and the monomer chosen from a dicarboxylic acid or a dicarboxylic acid diester.

[0049] Glycerol and polycarboxylate unit polyester can be obtained, in particular, by implementing the processes described in EP3149067, EP1448656 or PCT / EP2023 / 085400 when the polycarboxylate units are derived from a dicarboxylic acid. The polyester is then a glycerol and dicarboxylic acid polyester.

[0050] The dicarboxylic acid may be aliphatic, aromatic, or aliphatic / aromatic. An aliphatic / aromatic dicarboxylic acid comprises an aliphatic portion and an aromatic portion. The dicarboxylic acid preferably comprises from 3 to 36 carbon atoms.

[0051] Advantageously, the dicarboxylic acid is aliphatic, in particular saturated, in particular linear or branched, preferably it is a (C3-C2o)alkanediyldiacid carboxylic acid, more preferably a (C3-Ci5)alkanediyldiacid carboxylic acid.

[0052] Advantageously, the dicarboxylic acid is a diacid of general formula (I)

[0053] [HOOC-(CH2)p-COOH] (I)

[0054] in which p is a number from 1 to 30, preferably a number from 1 to 10.

[0055] In particular, the dicarboxylic acid can be selected from malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, dodecanedioic acid, hexadecanedioic acid, octadecanedioic acid and a mixture of two or more of these dicarboxylic acids.

[0056] Preferably, the dicarboxylic acid is chosen from malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid and a mixture of two or more of these dicarboxylic acids.

[0057] According to variants of the invention, the dicarboxylic acid may be a mixture of at least two dicarboxylic acids. Preferably, the dicarboxylic acid comprises sebacic acid.

[0058] Preferably, the dicarboxylic acid is sebacic acid.

[0059] During the preparation of the polyester, the dicarboxylic acid monomer and the Glycerol are advantageously the only monomers.

[0060] Glycerol and polycarboxylate units can be obtained, in particular, by implementing the processes described in US2021 / 0380758 or in application FR2023 / 15383 when the polycarboxylate units are derived from a dicarboxylic acid diester. The polyester is then a glycerol and dicarboxylic acid diester polyester.

[0061] The dicarboxylic acid diester monomer can be aliphatic, aromatic, or aliphatic / aromatic. In the latter case, the dicarboxylic acid diester comprises an aliphatic portion and an aromatic portion. The dicarboxylic acid preferably comprises from 3 to 36 carbon atoms.

[0062] Advantageously, the dicarboxylic acid diester monomer is aliphatic and the dicarboxylic acid comprises 3 to 36 carbon atoms.

[0063] The dicarboxylic acid diester monomer may preferably correspond to the following formula (II) ROOC-(CH2)n-COOR', in which n represents an integer from 1 to 30, preferably a number from 1 to 10, and R and R' represent, independently of each other, a linear or branched alkyl chain, or a vinyl function.

[0064] Preferably, the dicarboxylic acid diester monomer can be chosen from the diesters corresponding to malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid or a mixture of two or more of these diacid diesters Carboxylic acids, more preferably the dicarboxylic acid diester is selected from the group consisting of dimethyl malonate, dimethyl succinate, dimethyl glutarate, dimethyl adipate, dimethyl pimelate, dimethyl suberate, dimethyl azelate, dimethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof. According to embodiments of the invention, the dicarboxylic acid diester monomer may be a mixture of at least two different dicarboxylic acid diesters. Preferably, the dicarboxylic acid diester monomer comprises dimethyl sebacate.

[0065] Advantageously, the dicarboxylic acid diester monomer is dimethyl sebacate.

[0066] Advantageously, the dicarboxylic acid diester monomer and glycerol are the only monomers. Advantageously, the dimethyl sebacate monomer and glycerol are the only monomers.

[0067] Polyester is advantageously poly(glycerol sebacate) (PGS).

[0068] Glycerol and polycarboxylate unit polyester is advantageously biocompatible. Glycerol and polycarboxylate unit polyester is advantageously biodegradable. Polyol

[0069] A polyol is any organic compound comprising at least two alcohol functions, that is to say at least two hydroxyl groups (-OH).

[0070] The polyol is advantageously a diol. The polyol is advantageously an alkanediol, in particular an alkanediol comprising from 3 to 8 carbon atoms, advantageously from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, such as 1,3-propanediol, 2,3-butanediol or 1,2-hexanediol.

[0071] Preferably, a bio-based polyol such as 1,3-propanediol or 2,3-butanediol or 1,2-hexanediol will be used.

[0072] Polyester and polyol blend, silicone substitute

[0073] The polyester mixture of glycerol and polycarboxylate and polyol units can be used as a silicone substitute, that is, to replace the silicone(s) usually added to a composition to improve the sensory properties of said composition. The mixture is therefore referred to as a "silicone substitute".

[0074] Indeed, surprisingly, the addition of this mixture to a composition for topical application makes it possible to improve the sensory benefits, such as in particular the touch, especially the soft appearance, of the composition comprising it.

[0075] Surprisingly, adding this mixture to a topical composition improves the skin penetration of the composition containing it. Surprisingly, adding this mixture to a composition for Topical application allows for improved spreading, at the level of the skin and / or hair, particularly at the capillary level, of a composition containing it.

[0076] Adding this mixture to a composition for topical application advantageously improves its film-forming properties.

[0077] The content of polyester, glycerol and polycarboxylate units in the substitute advantageously varies from 1% to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of the substitute, more advantageously from 5% to 80% by weight.

[0078] The polyol content in the substitute varies advantageously from 1% to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of the substitute, more advantageously from 20% to 95% by weight.

[0079] Indeed, advantageously, the mixture, also called a silicone substitute, comprises exclusively glycerol polyester and polycarboxylate units and polyol.

[0080] A homogeneous mixture can be prepared by mixing at a temperature above 30°C, advantageously varying from 35°C to 60°C, under agitation, the polyol and polyester of glycerol and polycarboxylate units. Other components of the composition

[0081] The content of the polyester mixture of glycerol and polycarboxylate and polyol units, i.e. the silicone substitute, in the composition advantageously varies from 0.01% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0082] The content of polyester, glycerol and polycarboxylate units in the composition advantageously varies from 0.001% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, more advantageously from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more advantageously from 0.1% to 10% by weight.

[0083] The polyol content in the composition varies advantageously from 0.001% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, more advantageously from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more advantageously from 0.1% to 10% by weight.

[0084] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of silicone.

[0085] The composition is advantageously a composition for topical application. It is thus suitable and intended for application to the skin and skin appendages, in particular to the skin and hair.

[0086] The composition includes any cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable ingredient. In particular, the composition also includes any constituent commonly used in topical compositions in the fields of cosmetics and dermatology.

[0087] The composition is advantageously a composition for personal care, such as a conditioner, a shampoo, a body wash, a body cleanser, a facial cleanser and any other product for cleaning the skin and / or skin appendages, in particular the skin and / or hair.

[0088] The pH of the composition is advantageously close to the pH suitable for a cosmetic treatment, in particular the pH varies from 4.5 to 6, more advantageously from 4.7 to 5.8, even more advantageously from 4.8 to 5.5. The composition advantageously includes citric acid to adjust the pH.

[0089] In particular, the composition is an anhydrous composition, preferably in the form of an oil or a stick.

[0090] In particular, the composition may be an emulsion, such as an oil-in-water emulsion or a water-in-oil emulsion. It will then comprise one or more surfactants, such as an anionic surfactant and / or an amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant. It may also comprise at least one emulsifying agent.

[0091] The composition may include any constituent that modifies its rheology, consistency, appearance, and visual stability. Examples include consistency factors, texturizing agents, thickeners, etc.

[0092] The composition may include triglycerides, such as triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths ranging from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, the latter being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

[0093] The composition may include one or more vegetable oil(s), advantageously selected from sweet almond oil, argan oil, avocado oil, peanut oil, camellia oil, safflower oil, calophyllum oil, rapeseed oil, coconut oil, coriander oil, pumpkin seed oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil or liquid jojoba wax, linseed oil, macadamia oil, corn germ oil, hazelnut oil, walnut oil, vernonia oil, apricot kernel oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, passionflower oil, grapeseed oil, rosehip oil, castor oil, Rye oil, sesame oil, rice bran oil, camelina oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, pracaxi oil, babassu oil, mongongo oil, marula oil, arara oil, shea butter oil, Brazil nut oil, and mixtures thereof.Vegetable oils are not silicone-treated.

[0094] The composition may include any constituent that ensures its preservation, in particular at least one constituent selected from a preservative, an antibacterial agent, an antimicrobial agent, a fungicide, an antiseptic, a biocide, an insect repellent, and mixtures thereof.

[0095] Other optional ingredients for the compositions of the present invention include cosmetically acceptable emollients, sunscreens, colorants, pigments, pH adjusters, perfumes, foaming agents, tanning agents, depilatory agents, aromas, deodorants, antiperspirants, bleaching agents, lightening agents, anti-dandruff agents, exfoliating agents, fillers, ...

[0096] The solvent of the composition, when present, is advantageously water.

[0097] The quantity of optional ingredients required to obtain the desired property can be easily determined on a case-by-case basis.

[0098] The introduction of the mixture, i.e., the silicone substitute, into an emulsion-type composition can be carried out after the emulsification step, advantageously at a temperature ranging from 25°C to 60°C, under stirring. The mixture can also be introduced before the emulsification step.

[0099] The invention also relates to a method for replacing silicone in a dermatological or cosmetic composition, comprising replacing the silicone with the mixture described above, i.e., with the silicone substitute. Advantageously, the substitution is complete. The mixture can be used at the same weight as the silicone content in the composition to be substituted, or in a weight ratio of mixture:silicone to be substituted ranging from 0.1:1 to 10:1.

[0100] Thus, the invention also relates to the use of the mixture described above as a substitute for silicone in a dermatological or cosmetic composition.

[0101] The composition is advantageously as described above.

[0102] The invention also relates to a method of cosmetic or dermatological treatment of the skin and / or skin appendages, in particular of the skin and / or hair, comprising the topical application of a composition as described above.

[0103] By being advantageously free of silicone, this composition is more natural.

[0104] Including the mixture according to the invention, despite the absence of silicone, this composition advantageously has very good sensory properties, in particular very good spreading and / or penetration properties. This composition advantageously provides a feeling of softness. The film-forming properties of the composition are also fully satisfactory.

[0105] The invention also relates to the use of a mixture as described above in a composition for topical application, advantageously in a composition as described above, to improve its sensory properties.

[0106] The invention also relates to the use of a mixture as described above in a composition for topical application, advantageously in a composition as described above, to improve its softness, or soft touch, or feeling of softness.

[0107] The invention also relates to the use of a mixture as described above in a composition for topical application, advantageously in a composition as described above, to improve its film-forming properties.

[0108] The invention also relates to the use of a mixture as described above in a composition for topical application, advantageously in a composition as described above, to improve its spreading and / or skin penetration properties.

[0109] The mixture is advantageously used in these compositions in the contents described above.

[0110] The invention also relates to the mixture as described above for its use in a dermatological composition for topical application.

[0111] The mixture is advantageously used in these compositions in the contents described above. MEASUREMENT METHODS Macrostructure analysis: SEC RI

[0112] The SEC (Size Exclusion Chromatography) technique allows the separation of macromolecules in solution according to their size through columns filled with a porous gel. The macromolecules are separated according to their hydrodynamic volume, with the largest being eluted first.

[0113] While not an absolute method, SEC allows for the determination of the molar mass distribution of a polymer. Using commercial standard products, the various number-average (Mn) and weight-average (Mw) molar masses can be determined, and the polydispersity index (Ip = Mw / Mn), also called "dispersity," can be calculated. Signals from residual monomers have been identified and are not taken into account in the calculation of the average molecular masses.

[0114] The "macrostructure" of polyesters is analyzed by size-exclusion chromatography with differential refractometer detection (SEC RI), using polystyrene (PS) calibration. Samples are dissolved at a concentration of approximately 1 g / L in THF without butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT), then stirred for two hours before injection. The analysis temperature is 35°C, with a mobile phase flow rate of 1 µL / minute on 2 Mixed D + 2 Mixed E columns (commercially available from Agilent). The range covered by the PS calibration is between 162 g / mol and 2,520,000 g / mol. EXAMPLES

[0115] Unless otherwise stated, all percentages are expressed as weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0116] A poly(glycerol sebacate) (PGS) sample was prepared by mixing 3 molar equivalents of glycerol (230 g) with 1 molar equivalent of sebacic acid (169 g) and water (72 g) in a 500 mL reactor fitted with a distillation column and a condenser connected to a distillate receiver. The mixture was heated to 130°C for 24 h at atmospheric pressure under an inert atmosphere (N2), and the water was collected in the distillate receiver. The mixture was then heated under vacuum (5 mbar) at the same temperature for one hour. The resulting PGS has the following characteristics: Mn = 860 g / mol, Mw = 1020 g / mol, D = 1.2. Description of sensory tests

[0117] Sensory analysis was performed by a panel of experts in pharmaceutical development and evaluation (n=3) in a blind, triplicate manner on the underside of the forearm, applying the same quantity of each formulation with their fingers. The amount of product applied was reproducible for the same tester.

[0118] The criteria to be evaluated are strictly defined with the panelists prior to the study as follows with a rating system (from 0 to 5 = from least pronounced to most pronounced):

[0119] Spreading (during application), Penetration (during application), Oily (1 minute after application), Soft (1 minute after application), Film-forming (1 minute after application): by gliding over the skin, the product leaves a continuous film.

[0120] The results of the sensory evaluations of the panel members were compiled into a data table and then an average of the values ​​was calculated per criterion and per formulation.

[0121] The compositions studied are as follows in mass percentage:

[0122] Example 1: light emulsion

[0123] [Tables 1] Reference Control Invention Water QSP 100% QSP 100% QSP 100% Emulsifier 5.50% 5.50% 5.50% Oil phase 11.00% 11.00% 11.00% Viscosity / gelling agents 1.40% 1.40% 1.40% Preservatives 1.45% 1.45% 1.45% Propanediol 5.00% 5.00% 5.00% PGS - - 1.00% Cyclopentasiloxane - 2.00% -

[0124] Table 1

[0125] Formula preparation protocol:

[0126] 1) Prepare an emulsion

[0127] 2) Prepare the propanediol-PGS mixture: stir and heat to 35-40°C until completely dissolved

[0128] 3) During the cooling of the emulsion, at 45°C, begin the integration of the Mix under moderate stirring, then continue cooling. Sensory test results#:

[0129] [Tables2] Reference Control Invention Spread 92 100 97 Penetration (after 20 rotations) 75 100 96 Oily (after 1 min) 96 100 96 Smooth (after 1 min) 35 100 459 Film-forming (after 1 min) 75 100 134

[0130] Table 2

[0131] The formula containing the propanediol-PGS mixture has sensory benefits equivalent to that containing cyclopentasiloxane, or even superior in terms of soft touch and film-forming appearance.

[0132] Example 2: rich cream

[0133] [Tables3] Reference Control Control 2 Invention Emulsifiers 4.7% 4.7% 4.7% 4.7% Thickening / Gelding Agents 1.6% 1.6% 1.6% 1.6% Fat Phase 18.0% 18.0% 18.0% 18.0% Water QS 100% QS 100% QS 100% QS 100% Preservatives 1.5% 1.5% 1.5% 1.5% Antioxidant 0.1% 0.1% 0.1% 0.1% Propanediol 3.0% - 3.0% 3.0% PGS - - - 1.0% Cyclopentasiloxane - 2.0% 2.0% -

[0134] Table 3

[0135] Formula preparation protocol:

[0136] 1) Prepare an emulsion

[0137] 2) Prepare the propanediol-PGS mixture: stir and heat to 35-40°C until completely dissolved

[0138] 3) During the cooling of the emulsion, at 45°C, begin the integration of the Mix under moderate stirring, then continue cooling.

[0139] Sensory test results:

[0140] [Tables4] Reference Control Control 2 Invention Spread 82 100 97 97 Penetration (after 20 rotations) 72 100 97 103 Oily (after 1 min) 70 100 100 87 Smooth (after 1 min) 22 100 94 100 Film-forming (after 1 min) 112 100 96 147

[0141] Table 4

[0142] The formula containing the propanediol-PGS mixture has sensory benefits equivalent to that containing cyclopentasiloxane, or even superior with regard to the film-forming aspect.

[0143] Example 3: facial cleansing jelly

[0144] [Tables5] Reference Invention Mild Surfactants 10.0% 10.0% Thickening / Gelding Agents 1.4% 1.4% Skin Conditioner 2.0% 2.0% Water QS 100% QS 100% Preservatives 1.3% 1.3% Propanediol 3.0% 3.0% PGS - 1.0%

[0145] Table 5

[0146] Formula preparation protocol:

[0147] 1) Prepare the hydrogel by stirring the water, humectants and gelling agents

[0148] 2) Add a portion of the active voltages

[0149] 3) Prepare the propanediol-PGS mixture: stir and heat to 35-40°C until completely dissolved. Allow to cool and add the remaining surfactants. Mix well and add to the hydrogel mixture, stirring thoroughly.

[0150] 4) Prepare the preservatives and, once well homogenized, add them to the mixture Previous. Check for homogeneity

[0151] Example 4: mild shampoo

[0152] [Tableauxô] Reference Invention Mild Surfactants 14.5% 14.5% Thickening / Gelding Agents 0.9% 0.9% Hair Conditioner 5.5% 5.5% Water QS 100% QS 100% Preservatives 1.4% 1.4% pH Adjuster QS pH 4.8-5.2 QS pH 4.8-5.2 Propanediol 3.0% 3.0% PGS - 1.0%

[0153] Table 6

[0154] Formula preparation protocol:

[0155] 1) Prepare the hydrogel by stirring the water, humectants and gelling agents

[0156] 2) Add a portion of the surfactants

[0157] 3) Prepare the propanediol-PGS mixture: stir and heat to 35-40°C until completely dissolved. Allow to cool and add the remaining surfactants. Mix well and add to the hydrogel mixture, stirring thoroughly.

[0158] 4) Prepare the preservatives and, once well homogenized, add them to the mixture Previous. Check for homogeneity. Adjust the pH if necessary.

[0159] It is noted that the invention described above is a human-friendly and planet-friendly alternative (bio-based and biodegradable) to silicones with iso, or even improved, sensory benefits, for example, in terms of soft touch compared to silicones.

Claims

Demands

1. Silicone substitute consisting of a mixture comprising a polyol and a polyester of glycerol and polycarboxylate units.

2. A silicone substitute according to the preceding claim, wherein the mass ratio of polyester, glycerol, and polycarboxylate units: polyol varies from 1:99 to 99:1, preferably from 5:95 to 80 / 20.

3. A silicone substitute according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polyester of glycerol and polycarboxylate units has one or more of the following characteristics: - a number-average molar mass (Mn) greater than or equal to 600 g / mol, preferably from 700 g / mol to 1500 g / mol; - a dispersity D less than 3, preferably from 1.05 to 2.

5.

4. A silicone substitute according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the glycerol and polycarboxylate unit polyester is a polyester obtained by polymerization of glycerol and a dicarboxylic acid.

5. Substitute for silicone according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polyester of glycerol and polycarboxylate units is poly(glycerol sebacate).

6. Substitute for silicone according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polyol is an alkanediol, such as 1,3-propanediol, 2,3-butanediol or 1,2-hexanediol.

7. Composition for topical application, comprising the substitute according to any one of the preceding claims and any cosmetically acceptable ingredient.

8. Composition according to the preceding claim, comprising from 0.01% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of the substitute.

9. Composition according to claim 7 or 8, characterized in that it comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition, less than 0.1% by weight of silicone.

10. Composition according to any one of claims 7 to 9, characterized in that it is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, a water-in-oil emulsion or in the form of anhydrous mixtures such as sticks.

11. Use of a mixture as defined in any one of claims 1 to 6 as a substitute for silicones.

12. A cosmetic treatment method for the skin and / or skin appendages, comprising the application to the skin and / or skin appendages of a composition as defined in any one of claims 7 to 10.

13. Use of the silicone substitute according to any one of claims 1 to 6 in a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition to improve the sensory properties of the composition, advantageously to improve at least one of the following properties of the composition: - spreadability; - skin penetration; - soft touch; - film-forming.