COMPOSITION COMPRISING A GLYCOLIPID, A CATIONIC POLYMER AND A LIQUID FATTY ALCOHOL

Abstract

COMPOSITION COMPRISING A GLYCOLIPID, A CATIONIC POLYMER, AND A LIQUID FAT ALCOHOL. The present invention relates to a composition comprising: (a) at least one glycolipid; (b) at least one cationic polymer selected from polylysines, chitosans, and mixtures thereof; and (c) at least one liquid fatty alcohol. The composition according to the present invention is stable, may exhibit a relatively higher viscosity, and could provide a glycolipid-containing deposit to a keratinous material, such as skin. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: COMPOSITION COMPRISING A GLYCOLIPID, A CATIONIC POLYMER AND A LIQUID FATTY ALCOHOL technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition comprising a glycolipid, a cationic polymer and a liquid fatty alcohol, as well as a cosmetic process using the composition. CONTEXT OF THE INVENTION

[0002] Cleansing the skin is very important for facial care. It must be as effective as possible because oily residues, such as excess sebum, residues from daily cosmetic products and makeup, accumulate in skin folds and can clog pores and lead to the appearance of spots.

[0003] The formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, which are designed and developed with environmental considerations in mind, is becoming a major objective in an effort to address global challenges. It is therefore essential to offer more sustainable compositions, preparation processes, and ingredients to meet these environmental concerns.

[0004] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or materials with a good naturalness index and / or materials of natural origin.

[0005] Biological surfactants, such as glycolipids, in particular rhamnolipids, are materials of natural origin and are known to have unique bioactivities, such as anti-inflammatory efficacy, anti-allergic efficacy, antibacterial efficacy, and the like. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

[0006] There is a need for a stable composition that can provide a keratinous material, such as skin, with a deposit including a glycolipid.

[0007] However, it is difficult for a glycolipid to remain on the keratinous material when using a certain type of composition, such as a cleansing composition, including a glycolipid if the composition is rinsed with water.

[0008] Furthermore, if the composition has a low viscosity, it may drip from the hands when used, which is not desirable. Therefore, Applying the composition to keratinous material, such as skin, may not be practical for the consumer.

[0009] Therefore, an objective of the present invention is to provide a stable composition that can be easily applied to a keratinous material, such as skin, while providing a good glycolipid deposition on the keratinous material, such as skin, even when the composition is rinsed off with water.

[0010] The above objective can be achieved by a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cleansing cosmetic composition, comprising: a. at least one glycolipid; b. at least one cationic polymer selected from polylysines, chitosans and mixtures thereof; and c. at least one liquid fatty alcohol.

[0011] The (a) glycolipid can be selected from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, and mixtures thereof, preferably from rhamnolipids.

[0012] The quantity of the (a) glycolipid(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight and, more preferably, from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0013] The (b) cationic polymer may have a molecular weight greater than 1000, preferably greater than 1500 and, more preferably, greater than 2000.

[0014] The quantity of the (b) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0015] The weight ratio of the quantity of (a) glycolipid(s) / quantity of (b) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be 1 or more, preferably 10 or more, and more preferably 20 or more.

[0016] The (c) liquid fatty alcohol may be selected from linear or branched saturated fatty alcohols from C12 to C24, linear or branched unsaturated fatty alcohols from C12 to C24, and mixtures thereof.

[0017] It is preferable that the (c) liquid fatty alcohol be chosen from the group consisting of lauryl alcohol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, decyltetradecanol, and a mixture thereof, preferably isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof.

[0018] The quantity of the (c) liquid fatty alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0019] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (d) at least one anionic surfactant preferably selected from taurate surfactants.

[0020] The (d) anionic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0021] The composition according to the present invention may include (e) at least one amphoteric surfactant.

[0022] The quantity of the amphoteric surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight and, more preferably, from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0023] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for a keratinous material, such as skin, comprising:

[0024] the application to keratinous material of the composition according to the present invention; and

[0025] optionally the elimination of the keratinous material composition. Best embodiment of the invention

[0026] After extensive research, the inventors discovered that it is possible to propose a stable composition that can be easily applied to keratinous material, such as skin, while providing a good glycolipid deposit on the keratinous material, such as skin, even when the composition is rinsed with water.

[0027] Thus, the composition according to the present invention comprises: a. at least one glycolipid; b. at least one cationic polymer selected from polylysines, chitosans and mixtures thereof; and c. at least one liquid fatty alcohol.

[0028] The composition according to the present invention is stable, may exhibit a relatively higher viscosity and could provide a deposit including a glycolipid to a keratinous material, such as skin.

[0029] The composition according to the present invention is stable such that the appearance of the composition does not change at various temperatures, for example at cold temperatures such as -5 °C and 4 °C, for a long period of time. For example, if the composition according to the present invention is transparent, it can retain its transparent appearance at various temperatures for a long period of time.

[0030] Furthermore, the composition according to the present invention may have a relatively higher viscosity. Consequently, the composition according to the present invention is less likely to drip from the hands when used. As a result, the composition according to the present invention is easy to handle and, therefore, the composition can be easily applied to keratinous material, such as skin.

[0031] The (c) liquid fatty alcohol can play the role of thickener in the composition according to the present invention.

[0032] Furthermore, due to the relatively high viscosity, the composition according to the present invention may be suitable for delivery by a pump from a container.

[0033] Furthermore, the composition according to the present invention could provide good deposition of (a) glycolipid on keratinous materials, such as skin. The deposition can be ensured, for example, by precipitates including (a) a glycolipid formed in the composition according to the present invention, when the composition is rinsed from the keratinous material with water.

[0034] A preferred embodiment of the composition according to the present invention could provide a greater quantity of deposits or precipitates to a keratinous material, such as skin.

[0035] Since glycolipids, such as rhamnolipids, possess bioactivities, such as anti-inflammatory, anti-allergic, and antibacterial efficacy, the deposit including (a) glycolipid provided by the composition according to the present invention is useful for the care of keratinous material, such as skin. In particular, the composition according to the present invention is useful for the treatment or care of acne-prone skin.

[0036] Since glycolipids can act as (anionic) surfactants, the deposit including (a) glycolipid could also offer improved cleansing effects. Thus, the composition according to the present invention is also useful for cleaning keratinous material, such as skin.

[0037] (a) Glycolipid can be derived from natural and renewable materials and is biodegradable. Furthermore, since polylysins and chitosans can be obtained from natural resources, (b) cationic polymer is an environmentally friendly ingredient. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can include environmentally friendly ingredients.

[0038] The present invention will be explained in more detail below. [Composition]

[0039] The composition according to the present invention comprises: a. at least one glycolipid; b. at least one cationic polymer selected from polylysines, chitosans and mixtures thereof; and c. at least one liquid fatty alcohol. (Glycolipid)

[0040] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one glycolipid. Only one type of glycolipid may be used, or two or more different types of glycolipids may be used in combination.

[0041] The term "glycolipid" means a compound formed from a lipid to which one or more carbohydrate compounds are attached.

[0042] The (a) glycolipid may be selected from glucolipids, sophorolipids, trehalolipids, cellobiose lipids, rhamnolipids, and mixtures thereof.

[0043] The (a) glycolipid may preferably be chosen from sophorolipids, rhamnolipids, and mixtures thereof, and, more preferably, from rhamnolipids.

[0044] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one glycolipid selected from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids and mixtures thereof, and more preferably comprises at least one rhamnolipid.

[0045] Glucolipids:

[0046] The (a) glycolipid can be chosen from the glucolipids, which contain a glucose fraction and can be represented by the general formula (I):

[0047] in which:

[0048] - R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a cation,

[0049] - p denotes an integer from 1 to 4, and

[0050] - q denotes an integer from 4 to 10, preferably equal to 6.

[0051] Glycolipids can be produced by the bacterium Alcaligenes sp. MM1.

[0052] Suitable fermentation processes are reviewed by Mr. Schmidt in his doctoral thesis (1990), Technical University of Braunschweig, and by Schulz et al. (1991) Z. Naturforsch., 46C, 197-203. The glucolipids are recovered from the fermentation broth by solvent extraction using diethyl ether or a mixture of dichloromethane:methanol or chloroform:methanol.

[0053] Sophorolipids:

[0054] The (a) glycolipid may be selected from the sophorolipids, which include a sophorose fraction and can be represented by the general formula (II):

[0055] in which:

[0056] - R3 and R4 individually represent a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group,

[0057] - R5 represents a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group, hydroxylated or not hydroxylated, having from 1 to 9 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl,

[0058] - R6 represents a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group, hydroxylated or not hydroxylated, having from 1 to 19 carbon atoms,

[0059] provided that the total number of carbon atoms in groups R5 and R6 does not exceed 20 and is preferably from 14 to 18,

[0060] - R7 represents a hydrogen atom,

[0061] - R8 represents a hydroxyl group OH,

[0062] or R7 and R8 together form a lactone ring.

[0063] Sophorolipids can be incorporated into the composition according to the present invention either in the form of an open-chain free acid, where R7 represents a hydrogen atom and R8 represents a hydroxy group OH, or in its lactone form, where a lactone ring is formed between R7 and R8, as indicated by formula (III): (III)

[0064] in which:

[0065] - R3, R4, R5 and R6 are as defined above,

[0066] provided that at least one of R3 and R4 represents an acetyl group.

[0067] Sophorolipids can be produced by yeast cells, for example Torulopsis apicola and Torulopsis bombicola cells. The fermentation process generally uses sugars and alkanes as substrates.

[0068] Suitable fermentation processes are reviewed in AP Tulloch, JFT Spencer and PAJ Gorin, Can. J. Chem. (1962), 40, 1326, and U. Gobbert, S. Lang and F. Wagner, Biotechnology Letters (1984), 6 (4), 225. The resulting product is a mixture of various open-chain sophorolipids and sophorolipid lactones which can be used in mixtures, or the required form can be isolated.

[0069] Examples of sophorolipids that can be used include the product sold under the name Sopholiances by Givaudan and the product sold under the name BioToLife by BASF.

[0070] Trehalolipids:

[0071] The (a) glycolipid can be selected from the trehalolipids, which contain a trehalose fragment and can be represented by the general formula (IV): ! OQ COOH

[0072] in which:

[0073] - R9, R10 and R11 individually represent a saturated hydrocarbon radical or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated, having from 5 to 13 carbon atoms.

[0074] Trehalolipids can be produced by bacterial fermentation using the marine bacterium Arthrobacter sp. Ek 1 or the freshwater bacterium Rhodococcus erythropolis. Suitable fermentation methods are proposed by Ishigami et al. (1987), J. Jpn. Oil Chem. Soc., 36, 847-851, Schultz et al. (1991), Z. Naturforsch., 46C, 197-203, and Passeri et al. (1991), Z. Naturforsch., 46C, 204-209.

[0075] Cellobiose lipids:

[0076] The (a) glycolipid can be selected from cellobiose lipids, which comprise a cellobiose fragment and can be represented by the general formula (IV): (V) COOH*

[0077]

[0078]

[0079]

[0080]

[0081]

[0082]

[0083]

[0084]

[0085]

[0086] in which: - R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a cation, - R12 represents a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, hydroxylated or not

[0087] hydroxylated, having from 9 to 15 carbon atoms, preferably 13 carbon atoms, - R13 represents a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group; and - R14 represents a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated, having from 4 to 16 carbon atoms. Cellobiose lipids can be produced by fungal cells of the genus Ustilago. Suitable fermentation processes are proposed by Frautz, Lang and Wagner (1986), Biotech. Letts., 8, 757-762. Rhamnolipids: (a) glycolipid can be selected from among the rhamnolipids. The composition according to the present invention preferably comprises one or more rhamnolipids. Rhamnolipids are glycolipids produced by various bacterial species. They consist of one rhamnose fragment (mono-rhamnolipid) or two rhamnose fragments (di-rhamnolipid) linked by a glycosidic bond to one, two or three [3-hydroxylated] fatty acid chains linked together by an ester bond. Preferably, the rhamnolipids are chosen from among the mono-rhamnolipids and di-rhamnolipids corresponding to the following formula (VI): n

[0088] in which:

[0089] - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0,

[0090] - n denotes an integer equal to 1 or 0, and

[0091] - Ri and R2 each independently represent hydrocarbon radicals identical or different having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 13 carbon atoms, which are branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted, in particular hydroxy-substituted, and saturated or unsaturated, preferably a mono-, di- or tri-unsaturated alkyl radical,

[0092] and also their salts, their solvates and their optical isomers.

[0093] Thus, when n is equal to 0, formula (VI) represents mono-rhamnolipids and, when n equals 1, it represents di-rhamnolipids.

[0094] The composition according to the present invention preferably comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid.

[0095] The composition according to the present invention preferably comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which:

[0096] - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0;

[0097] - n denotes an integer equal to 1; and

[0098] - Ri and R2 each independently represent hydrocarbon radicals identical or different having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 13 carbon atoms, which are branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted, in particular hydroxy-substituted, and saturated or unsaturated, preferably an alkyl radical mono-, di- or tri-unsaturated, and also their salts, their solvates and their optical isomers.

[0099] The glycosidic linkage between the two rhamnose fragments can be in alpha or beta configuration and is preferably in alpha configuration.

[0100] In the context of the present invention,

[0101] - the salts of di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) are more particularly their salts of carboxylate with an organic or inorganic cation and, in particular, with a cation chosen from sodium, potassium, calcium and ammonium,

[0102] - the solvated forms of di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) are more particularly those solvated by one or more molecules of water or organic solvents, for example a hydrate or solvate of a linear or branched alcohol, such as ethanol or isopropanol, the optically active carbon atoms of fatty acids being preferably in the form of R enantiomers, and

[0103] - the term "alkyl radical" designates a saturated, linear aliphatic group or branched; for example, an alkyl group in Ci-C2o having a linear or branched hydrocarbon chain of 1 to 20 carbon atoms, more particularly a methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl or eicosyl group.

[0104] The composition according to the present invention preferably comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which:

[0105] - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0;

[0106] - n denotes an integer equal to 1; and

[0107] - Ri and R2, which are identical or different, are chosen from among the radicals pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl, tridecenyl and radicals of formula -(CH2)OCH3, o denoting an integer from 1 to 23, in particular from 3 to 15 and more particularly from 4 to 12.

[0108] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of general formula (VI) in which m is equal to 1.

[0109] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the composition according to the present invention comprises a mixture of at least two, preferably at least three di-rhamnolipids of general formula (VI) in which m is preferably equal to 1.

[0110] According to another embodiment of the present invention, the composition according to the present invention comprises a mixture comprising at least one mono-rhamnolipid.

[0111] More preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of the following formula (VII): n

[0112] in which:

[0113] - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0; preferably, m is equal to 1,

[0114] - n denotes an integer equal to 1,

[0115] - Ri is a radical (CH2)P-CH3, p being an integer ranging from 1 to 23, of Preference for 4 to 12,

[0116] - R2 is a radical -(CH2)q-CH3, q being an integer ranging from 1 to 23, of Preference for 4 to 12,

[0117] and also their salts, their solvates and their optical isomers.

[0118] By way of illustration and without limiting the di-rhamnolipids of formula (VII) which may be suitable for the present invention, particular mention may be made of the compounds of formula di-RL-CXCY, as defined in Table 1 below.

[0119] The formula di-RL-CXCY is a variant of writing to represent a di-rhamnolipid (di-RL) functionalized by two radicals Ri and R2 respectively represented by the symbols CX and CY, the integers X and Y being respectively equal to p+4 and q+4.

[0120] [Tables 1] Compounds DCRL-CXCY P4 «L-CÎSC16 UU

[0121] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1, also called di-RL-ClOCIO, or one of its salts, solvated and optical isomers.

[0122] Preferably, the di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1 is present in the composition according to the present invention in a proportion of at least 50% by weight and preferably from 51% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids.

[0123] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which m is equal to 1, p is equal to 6 and q is equal to 8, or one of its salts, solvated and optical isomers.

[0124] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1, Ri represents a radical -(CH2)OCH3, o being an integer ranging from 4 to 12, and R2 is selected from the pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl and tridecenyl radicals; preferably, Ri represents a radical -(CH2)6CH3 and R2 a nonenyl radical, or one of its salts, solvated and optically isomers.

[0125] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises a mixture of at least two, in particular at least three di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) or formula (VII) as defined above, and more particularly selected from:

[0126] - a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1;

[0127] - a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which m is equal to 1, p is equal to 6 and q is equal to 8; and

[0128] - at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1, Ri represents a radical -(CH2)OCH3, o being an integer ranging from 4 to 12, and R2 is chosen from the radicals pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl and tridecenyl; preferably, Ri represents a radical -(CH2)6CH3 and R2 a nonenyl radical.

[0129] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises a mixture of at least two, in particular at least three di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) or formula (VII) selected from:

[0130] - at least 50% by weight and preferably from 51% to 85% by weight of a di- rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1, relative to the total weight of the rhamnolipids,

[0131] - from 0.5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, of a di- rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p is equal to 6, q is equal to 8 and m is equal to 1, with respect to the total weight of the rhamnolipids, and

[0132] - from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 3% to 12% by weight, preferably from 5% % to 10% by weight, of a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1, Ri represents a radical -(CH2)6CH3 and R2 represents a nonenyl radical, relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids.

[0133] Rhamnolipids are usually prepared by processes known to those skilled in the art from bacterial producers, such as Pseudomonas.

[0134] Suitable fermentation processes are reviewed by D. Haferburg, R. Hommel, R. Claus and HP Kleber in Adv. Biochem. Ing. / Biotechnol. (1986), 33, 53-90, and by F. Wagner, H. Bock and A. Kretschmar in Fermentation (ed. RM Lafferty) (1981), 181-192, Springer Verlag, Vienna.

[0135] The product sold under the name Rheance One by Evonik (INCI name: glycolipids) can be used as a rhamnolipide.

[0136] The amount of (a) glycolipid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and, more preferably, 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0137] The quantity of the (a) glycolipid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably, 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0138] The quantity of the (a) glycolipid(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight and, more preferably, from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0139] In the context of this patent memorandum, any combination of the above upper limit values ​​and lower limit values ​​may be available to represent the preferred range of quantity. (Cationic polymer)

[0140] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one cationic polymer selected from polylysines, chitosans, and mixtures thereof. Only one type of such cationic polymer may be used, or two or more different types of such cationic polymers may be used in combination.

[0141] A cationic polymer can have a positive charge density. The charge density of (a) the cationic polymer can be from 0.01 meq / g to 20 meq / g, preferably from 0.05 to 15 meq / g, and more preferably from 0.1 to 10 meq / g.

[0142] The molecular weight (Da) of the (b) cationic polymer is less than 20,000, preferably less than 15,000 and, more preferably, less than 10,000. In other words, the (b) cationic polymer may be a low molecular weight polylysine or chitosan.

[0143] The molecular weight (Da) of the (b) cationic polymer may be greater than 1000, preferably greater than 1500, and more preferably greater than 2000.

[0144] Thus, the molecular weight (Da) of the (b) cationic polymer can be greater than 1000 and less than 20,000, preferably greater than 1500 and less than 15,000, and more preferably greater than 2000 and less than 10,000.

[0145] Unless otherwise specified in the descriptions, "molecular weight" means an average molecular weight by weight. The molecular weight can be measured or determined by gel permeation chromatography, for example in accordance with ASTM D5296-19.

[0146] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the (a) cationic polymer can be chosen from polylysines.

[0147] Polylysines are formed by the condensation of several lysine amino acids. A polylysine can be a natural homopolymer of L-lysine, which can be produced by bacterial fermentation. Polylysines are typically used as natural preservatives in food products. A polylysine is a polyelectrolyte that is soluble in polar solvents, such as water.

[0148] A polylysine can be, for example, an epsilon-polylysine (or designated as "e-polylysine"), which is a condensation of the amino groups in the e position and the carboxyl groups of lysines, or an alpha-polylysine (or designated as "a-polylysine"), which is a condensation of the amino groups in the a position and the carboxyl groups of lysines. Various forms of polylysines are commercially available, such as poly D-lysine and poly L-lysine. Generally, polylysine is a condensate of L-lysines, that is, poly L-lysine.

[0149] Examples of polylysine include:

[0150] - JNC CORPORATION's epsilon-poly-L-lysine, which is a 25% solution of epsilon-poly-L-lysine having a molecular weight of approximately 4700 in aqueous solution; and

[0151] - the polylysine of Shandong Freda Biotechnology which is in the form of a white to creamy yellow powder and has a molecular weight between 4130 and 5776.

[0152] According to a particular embodiment, the polylysine may be a modified polylysine, for example a fatty chain polylysine as described in application FR 2889448, a guanidine or biguanidine function polylysine as described in application FR 2851465, a thiolated polylysine as described in application FR2853533.

[0153] Polylysine may be in the form of organic or inorganic salts. Salts added with an acid include, for example, salts of hydrochloric or hydrobromic acid, sulfuric acid, citric acid, succinic acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, para-toluenesulfonic acid, phosphoric acid, or acetic acid; or salts of fatty acids, such as linoleic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, and 18-methylicosanoic acid. Salts added with a base include, for example, a sodium salt, a calcium salt, or a hydroxyalkylamine salt, for example, of N-methylglucamine, aminopropanediol, or triethanolamine.

[0154] In some preferred embodiments of the present invention, the polylysine of the present invention is present as a single molecule in the composition, or is not covalently bonded to other compounds. In one embodiment of the present invention, the polylysine is not covalently bonded to dye compounds. In another embodiment of the present invention, the polylysine is not covalently bonded to polyorganosiloxane compounds. The term "polyorganosiloxane" is well known in the art to designate compounds having a Si-O main chain and organic functional groups bonded to the main chain.

[0155] In another embodiment of the present invention, the polylysine is in free form. The term "free form" here indicates that the polylysine is not covalently bonded to other compounds.

[0156] According to another embodiment of the present invention, the (a) cationic polymer can be selected from chitosans.

[0157] Chitosan is very rare in nature. It is only reported in the exoskeletons of certain insects such as termite queens and in the cell walls of a particular class of fungi, the zygomycetes.

[0158] Chitosan can be obtained by deacetylation of chitin. Chitin is a polysaccharide composed of several N-acetyl-D-glucosamine motifs linked together by a [3(1,4) type bond.

[0159] The ideal chemical structure of chitosan is a sequence of [3-D-glucosamine] monomers linked by a glycosidic bond (1—>4).

[0160] The "chitosan" according to the present invention refers to any copolymer formed from constituent N-acetyl-D-glucosamine and D-glucosamine motifs, the degree of acetylation of which is less than 90%, preferably less than 80%, preferably less than 70%, preferably less than 60%, preferably less than 50%. Chitosan consists of glucosamine carbohydrate motifs (deacetylated motifs) and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine motifs (acetylated motifs) linked together by [3(1,4)] type bonds and is a poly(N-acetyl-D-glucosamine)-poly(D-glucosamine) polymer.

[0161] More preferably, the degree of acetylation of chitosan is less than or equal to 40%, preferably less than or equal to 35%, preferably less than or equal to 25%, preferably less than or equal to 15%, and preferably less than or equal to 10%.

[0162] The degree of acetylation is the percentage of acetylated motifs relative to the total number of motifs; it can be determined by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) or by titration with a strong base.

[0163] The chitosan of the present invention is preferably a polysaccharide prepared from a fungal origin. In particular, it is extracted and purified from safe and abundant foods or from biotechnological fungal sources, such as Agaricus bisporus or Aspergillus niger.

[0164] The chitosan of the present invention is preferably derived from the mycelium of an ascomycete fungus, and in particular Aspergillus niger, and / or of a basidiomycete fungus, and in particular Lentinula edodes (shiitake) and / or Agaricus bisporus. Preferably, the fungus is Aspergillus niger.

[0165] Chitosan may be of GMO (Genetically Modified Organism) origin, but it is preferably of non-GMO origin.

[0166] The chitosan according to the present invention is native, that is to say, it is not modified. In particular, it contains no chemical modification.

[0167] A process for preparing chitosan is that described in document WO03 / 068824.

[0168] Preferably, the chitosan used in the present invention is in powder form. It is marketed by Glentham Life Science under the name GU3511.

[0169] The quantity of the (b) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and, more preferably, 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0170] Furthermore, the quantity of the (b) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferable for the quantity of the (b) cationic polymer(s) to be 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0171] The amount of the (b) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferable for the amount of the (b) cationic polymer(s) to be from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0172] In the context of this patent memorandum, any combination of the above upper limit values ​​and lower limit values ​​may be available to represent the preferred range of quantity.

[0173] The (a) glycolipid(s) may be included in the composition according to the present invention in a quantity greater than the (a) cationic polymer(s).

[0174] Consequently, the weight ratio of the quantity of (a) glycolipid(s) / quantity of (b) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be 1 or more, preferably 10 or more, and more preferably 20 or more. (Liquid fatty alcohol)

[0175] The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one liquid fatty alcohol. Only one type of liquid fatty alcohol may be used, or two or more different types of liquid fatty alcohols may be used in combination.

[0176] The term "fatty" here means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols that have 6 or more, preferably 8 or more, and more preferably 10 or more carbon atoms, are included within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohols can be linear or branched. Two or more fatty alcohols can be used in combination.

[0177] The (c) liquid fatty alcohol is in the form of a liquid at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 101,325 Pa). In other words, the (c) liquid fatty alcohol has a melting point below 25 °C under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 101,325 Pa).

[0178] The (c) liquid fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, for example from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R is selected from Ci2-C24 alkyl and Ci2-C24 alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.

[0179] It is preferable that the (c) liquid fatty alcohol be selected from linear or branched saturated fatty alcohols from C12 to C24, linear or branched unsaturated fatty alcohols from C12 to C24, and mixtures thereof.

[0180] Non-limiting examples (c) of liquid fatty alcohol that may be cited include lauryl alcohol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, decyltetradecanol, and any mixture thereof.

[0181] It is more preferable that (c) liquid fatty alcohol be chosen from the group consisting of isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof.

[0182] The quantity of the (c) liquid fatty alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention is 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0183] The quantity of the (c) liquid fatty alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0184] The quantity of the (c) liquid fatty alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0185] In the context of this patent memorandum, any combination of the above upper limit values ​​and lower limit values ​​may be available to represent the preferred range of quantity.

[0186] (Anionic surfactant)

[0187] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (d) at least one anionic surfactant. Only one type of such anionic surfactant may be used, or Two or more different types of such anionic surfactants may be used in combination.

[0188] Preferably, the (d) anionic surfactant is chosen from taurate surfactants.

[0189] The term "taurate surfactant" here refers to an anionic surfactant comprising at least a taurate fraction. Taurate surfactant may also be called a taurate-based surfactant.

[0190] The taurate surfactant is preferably an acyltaurate, more preferably an N-acyltaurate, and even more preferably an N-acylmethyltaurate (i.e., N-acyl-N-methyltaurate).

[0191] Taurate surfactants include those of formula I, below:

[0192] in which

[0193] - R7 is a C8-C22 alkyl;

[0194] - R8 is H or a Ci-C4 alkyl;

[0195] - R9 and R10 are each independently H or a Ci-C4 alkyl group; and

[0196] - M+ is a sodium, potassium or ammonium cation.

[0197] The taurate surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of taurate, caproyltaurate, lauroyltaurate, myristoyltaurate, palmitoyltaurate, stearoyltaurate, oleoyltaurate, cocoyltaurate, methyltaurate, coconut oil fatty acid methyltaurate, palm kernel oil fatty acid methyltaurate, hydrogenated palm kernel oil fatty acid methyltaurate, beef tallow fatty acid methyltaurate, hydrogenated beef tallow fatty acid methyltaurate, caproylmethyltaurate, lauroylmethyltaurate, myristoylmethyltaurate, palmitoylmethyltaurate, stearoylmethyltaurate, oleoylmethyltaurate, cocoylmethyltaurate, the methyltaurine, cocoyl methyltaurate, and their salts.

[0198] For example, taurate surfactants include sodium methyllauroyltaurate, sodium methylmyristoyltaurate, potassium methylmyristoyltaurate, sodium methylcocoyltaurate, sodium methyloleoyltaurate, calcium methyllauroyltaurate, potassium methyllauroyltaurate, and ammonium methyllauroyltaurate. Similarly, in some cases, the taurate surfactant is sodium methylcocoyltaurate.

[0199] Examples of the surfactant taurate include, but are not limited to:

[0200] - the sodium salt of palm kernel oil methyltaurate, sold under the name Hostapon CT Pâté® by Clariant;

[0201] - sodium N-cocoyl-N-methyltaurate, sold under the name Hostapon LT-SF® by Clariant or sold under the name Nikkol CMT-30-T® by Nikkol;

[0202] - sodium methylstearoyltaurate sold under the name Nikkol SMT®; and

[0203] - sodium palmitoylmethyltaurate, sold under the name Nikkol PMT® by Nikkol.

[0204] The quantity of the anionic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, and more preferably 2% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0205] The quantity of the anionic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0206] The quantity of the anionic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0207] In one embodiment of the present invention, the total quantity of (a) glycolipid(s) and (d) anionic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 3% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, and more preferably from 7% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0208] In another embodiment of the present invention, the weight ratio of the quantity of (a) glycolipid(s) / total quantity of (a) glycolipid(s) and (d) anionic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.1 to 1, preferably from 0.15 to 0.75, and more preferably from 0.2 to 0.5. (Amphoteric surfactant)

[0209] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (e) at least one amphoteric surfactant. Only one type of amphoteric surfactant may be used, or two or more different types of amphoteric surfactants may be used in combination.

[0210] Amphoteric (or zwitterionic) surfactants may be, for example (non-limiting list), amine derivatives such as a secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine, and optionally quaternized amine derivatives, wherein the aliphatic radical is a linear or branched chain comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-solubilizing anionic group (e.g., carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate).

[0211] Preferably, the (e) amphoteric surfactant is chosen from the group consisting of betaines and carboxylated amidoamine derivatives.

[0212] More preferably, the (e) amphoteric surfactant is chosen from betaine-type surfactants.

[0213] The amphoteric surfactant of the betaine type may be selected from the group consisting of alkylbetaines, alkylamidoalkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, alkylsulfobetaines, phosphobetaines, alkylphosphobetaines and alkylamidoalkylsulfobetaines, in particular (C8-C24 alkyl)betaines, (C8-C24 alkyl)amido(CrC8 alkyl)betaines, sulfobetaines, (Ci-C8 alkyl)sulfobetaines, phosphobetaines, (Ci-C8 alkyl)phosphobetaines, and (C8-C24 alkyl)amido(Ci-C8 alkyl)sulfobetaines. In one embodiment, amphoteric surfactants of the betaine type are chosen from (C8-C24 alkyl)betaines, (C8-C24 alkyl)amido(Ci-C8 alkyl)sulfobetaines, sulfobetaines, (CrC8 alkyl)sulfobetaines and phosphobetaines.

[0214] Non-limiting examples include compounds listed in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary & Handbook, 15th edition, 2014, under the names cocobetaine, laurylbetaine, cetylbetaine, coco / oleamidopropylbetaine, cocamidopropylbetaine, palmitamidopropylbetaine, stearamidopropylbetaine, cocamidoethylbetaine, cocamidopropylhydroxysultaine, oleamidopropylhydroxysultaine, cocohydroxysultaine, laurylhydroxysultaine and cocosultaine, alone or in mixtures.

[0215] The amphoteric surfactant of the betaine type (betaines) may be an alkylbetaine, an alkylsulfobetaine, and an alkylamidoalkylbetaine, in particular cocobetaine, sulfopropylbetaine and cocamidopropylbetaine.

[0216] Among the derivatives of carboxylated amidoamine, one can cite the products sold under the name Miranol, as described in US patents Nos. 2,528,378 and 2,781,354 and classified in the CTFA dictionary, 3rd edition, 1982, under the names amphocarboxyglycinates and amphocarboxypropionates, having the respective structures:

[0217] RrCONHCH2CH2-N+(R2)(R3)(CH2COO) M+

[0218] in which:

[0219] - Ri designates an alkyl radical of an acid RrCOOH present in coconut oil hydrolyzed, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl radical,

[0220] - R2 designates a beta-hydroxyethyl group,

[0221] - R3 designates a carboxymethyl group,

[0222] - M+ denotes a cationic ion derived from alkali metals, such as sodium; an ion ammonium; or an ion derived from an organic amine;

[0223] - X denotes an organic or inorganic anionic ion, such as halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (alkyl C1-C4)sulfates, (alkyl C1-C4)- or (alkyl C1-C4)aryl-sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; or M+ and X are not present;

[0224] R1'-CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(C) (B2)

[0225] in which:

[0226] - R / denotes an alkyl radical of an acid Ri'-COOH present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl radical, such as a C7, C9, Cn or Cb alkyl radical, a Cp alkyl radical and its isoform, or a Cp unsaturated radical,

[0227] - B represents -CH2CH2OX',

[0228] - C represents -(CH2)Z-Y', with z=l or 2,

[0229] - X' denotes a group -CH2-COOH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2-COOH, -CH2CH2- COOZ' or a hydrogen atom, and

[0230] - Y' denotes a radical -COOH, -COOZ', -CH2-CHOH-SO3Z', -CH2-CHOH-SO3H or a radical -CH2-CH(OH)-SO3-Z',

[0231] in which Z' represents an ion of an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ion derived from an organic amine or an ammonium ion;

[0232] and

[0233] Ra-NH-CH(Y”)-(CH2)nC(O)-NH-(CH2)nN(Rd)(Re) (B'2)

[0234] in which:

[0235] - Y" denotes -C(O)OH, -C(O)OZ", -CH2-CH(OH)-SO3H or -CH2-CH(OH)-SO3-Z", in which Z" denotes a cationic ion derived from an alkali or alkaline earth metal such as sodium, an ion derived from an organic amine, or an ammonium ion;

[0236] - Rd and Re denote an alkyl radical in CrC4 or hydroxyalkyl in CrC4;

[0237] - Ra designates an alkyl or alkenyl group Cio-C3O of an acid, and

[0238] - n and n' independently denote an integer from 1 to 3.

[0239] The amphoteric surfactant of formula B1 and B2 may be selected from (C8-C24 alkyl)-amphomonoacetates, (C8-C24 alkyl)amphodiacetates, (C8-C24 alkyl)amphomonopropionates and (C8-C24 alkyl)amphodipropionates.

[0240] These compounds are listed in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate, Disodium Caprylamphodiacetate, Disodium Capryloamphodiacetate, Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate, Disodium Lauroamphopropionate, Disodium Caprylamphodipropionate, Disodium Caprylamphodipropionate, Lauroamphodipropionic acid and Cocoamphodipropionic acid.

[0241] As an example, we can cite cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia Chimie under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate.

[0242] Among the compounds of formula (B'2), we can mention sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide (CTFA) marketed by CHIMEX under the name CHIMEXANE HB.

[0243] The quantity of the amphoteric surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0244] The quantity of the amphoteric surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0245] In one embodiment of the present invention, the weight ratio of the quantity of the (e) amphoteric surfactant(s) / the total quantity of the (a) glycolipid(s) and the (d) anionic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.7 or more, preferably 0.8 or more, and more preferably 0.9 or more. (Water)

[0246] The composition according to the present invention may include (f) water.

[0247] The quantity of (f) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more, and more preferably 70% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0248] The quantity of (f) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 95% by weight or less, preferably 90% by weight or less and, more preferably, 85% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0249] The quantity of (f) water in the composition according to the present invention can be from 50% to 95% by weight, preferably from 60% to 90% by weight and more preferably from 70% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (pH)

[0250] The pH of the composition according to the present invention can be from 4 to 8, preferably from 4.5 to 7.5 and, more preferably, from 5 to 7.

[0251] The pH of the composition according to the present invention can be corrected by adding at least one alkali and / or at least one acid. The pH of the composition according to the present invention can also be corrected by adding at least one buffering agent. (Optional ingredient)

[0252] The composition according to the present invention may comprise, in addition to the aforementioned ingredients, one or more optional ingredients typically used in cosmetics, in particular cationic or non-ionic surfactants / emulsifiers, anionic surfactants other than (a) glycolipid or (d) anionic surfactant; hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners derived, for example, from synthetic thickeners; volatile or non-volatile organic solvents, such as ethanol; cationic polymers other than polylysins or chitosans; anionic polymers; amphoteric polymers; non-ionic polymers; silicones and silicone derivatives; fatty acids; natural extracts of animal or vegetable origin other than (b) cationic polymer; waxes; preservatives; antioxidants; salts; and similar, within a range that does not alter the effects of the present invention.

[0253] The composition according to the present invention may comprise the above optional ingredient(s) in an amount of 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 20% by weight, and more preferably 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0254] The amount of silicone(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.1% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is particularly preferable that the composition according to the present invention not include silicone. (Methods of implementation)

[0255] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0256] from 0.01% to 20% by weight of (a) at least one glycolipid;

[0257] from 0.01% to 10% by weight of (b1) at least one cationic polymer selected from the polylysines; and

[0258] from 0.01% to 10% by weight of (c) at least one liquid fatty alcohol.

[0259] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention includes, in relation to the total weight of the composition:

[0260] from 0.1% to 15% by weight of (a1) at least one glycolipid selected from sophorolipids, rhamnolipids, and mixtures thereof;

[0261] from 0.05% to 5% by weight of (b") at least one polylysine having a molecular weight greater than 1000; and

[0262] from 0.05% to 5% by weight of (c1) at least one liquid fatty alcohol selected from linear or branched saturated fatty alcohols in C12 to C24, linear or branched unsaturated fatty alcohols in C12 to C24, and mixtures thereof.

[0263] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0264] of 1% to 10% by weight of (a1) at least one rhamnolipid;

[0265] of 0.1% to 3% by weight of (b'") at least one polylysine having a molecular weight greater than 1000 and less than 20,000; and

[0266] from 0.1% to 1% by weight of (c") at least one liquid fatty alcohol selected from the group consisting of isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol and a mixture thereof. [Preparation]

[0267] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and the optional ingredient(s), if applicable, as explained above.

[0268] The method and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.

[0269] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by simple or easy mixing with a conventional mixing means such as a stirrer and homogenizer. Furthermore, heating may not be necessary. [Shape]

[0270] The composition according to the present invention may be in any form.

[0271] For example, the composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a solution, in particular an aqueous solution, a tonic, a serum or a lotion.

[0272] In another embodiment, the composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a gel. In this embodiment, the composition according to the present invention may be packaged with an automatic foam pump that allows consumers to use the composition in the form of a foam.

[0273] The compositions may have a viscosity, for example, of 700 mPa.s or more, preferably of 800 mPa.s or more, more preferably of 900 mPa.s or more and even more preferably of 1000 mPa.s or more at 25 °C under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 101,325 Pa).

[0274] The composition according to the present invention, before being diluted, for example, with water, may have a transparent or translucent appearance, preferably a transparent appearance.

[0275] Transparency can be measured by measuring turbidity (for example, with the HACH 2100Q portable turbidimeter). The turbidity of the composition according to the present invention can be less than 400 NTU (translucent), preferably less than 350 NTU, more preferably less than 300 NTU (transparent). [Cosmetic application]

[0276] The composition according to the present invention can be intended for use as a cosmetic composition. Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be intended for application to keratinous material. Keratinous material here means material containing keratin as its principal constituent, examples of which include skin, scalp, nails, lips, hair, and the like. Thus, it is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention be used for a cosmetic process on keratinous material, particularly skin.

[0277] Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be a cosmetic composition for the skin, preferably a skin care composition, and more preferably a facial care composition.

[0278] In particular, the composition according to the present invention is useful for cleansing. Thus, it is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be a cosmetic cleansing composition, more preferably a cosmetic cleansing composition for the skin, and even more preferably a cosmetic cleansing composition for the face.

[0279] In another embodiment, the composition according to the present invention can also be used as a cosmetic cleansing composition for keratinous fibers, such as hair, preferably as a shampoo. [Cosmetic process and use]

[0280] The present invention also relates to:

[0281] - a cosmetic process for a keratinous material such as skin, comprising: the application of the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous material; and optionally the removal of the composition from the keratinous material,

[0282] or

[0283] - a use of the composition according to the present invention for the care or the cleaning of a keratinous material such as skin.

[0284] The cosmetic process here means a non-therapeutic cosmetic process, such as a cosmetic process for the care or cleaning of the surface of a keratinous material, such as the skin.

[0285] The removal step in the cosmetic process according to the present invention can be carried out, for example, by rinsing the composition according to the present invention with water from a keratinous material, such as skin.

[0286] If the removal step is not carried out, the cosmetic process according to the present invention may be useful for the care of keratinous material such as skin, because (a) glycolipid can confer on the keratinous material anti-inflammatory, anti-allergic or antibacterial properties, which would be useful, in particular, for the care of acne-prone or sensitive skin.

[0287] If the removal step is carried out, the cosmetic process according to the present invention can be useful for cleaning keratinous material such as skin, because (a) glycolipid can act as a surfactant.

[0288] The present invention also relates to

[0289] the use of (b) at least one cationic polymer selected from polylysines, chitosans and mixtures thereof,

[0290] in a composition comprising

[0291] (a) at least one glycolipid, and

[0292] (c) at least one liquid fatty alcohol

[0293] so that the composition gives a keratinous material improved anti-inflammatory, anti-allergic or antibacterial properties, which would be useful, in particular, for the care of acne-prone and sensitive skin.

[0294] The present invention may also relate to

[0295] use of (c) at least one liquid fatty alcohol

[0296] in a composition comprising a. at least one glycolipid, and b. at least one cationic polymer selected from polylysines, chitosans and mixtures thereof,

[0297] in order to stabilize the composition and increase the viscosity of the composition, preferably 700 mPa.s or more, more preferably 800 mPa.s or more, even more preferably 900 mPa.s or more, and particularly preferably 1000 mPa.s or more at 25 °C under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 101,325 Pa).

[0298] The term "stabilize" here means that the use according to the present invention can thermally stabilize the composition for a long period of time. For example, aspects of the composition can be stabilized at a low temperature of, for example, -5 °C and 4 °C for 30 days or more.

[0299] The above explanations concerning (a) glycolipid, (b) cationic polymer and (c) liquid fatty alcohol, for the composition according to the present invention, can be applied to those of the above use. EXAMPLES

[0300] The present invention will be described in more detail by means of examples. However, these should not be interpreted as limiting the scope of the present invention. [Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4] [Preparations]

[0301] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 was prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in Table 2. The numerical values ​​of the quantities of ingredients in Table 2 are all based on a "% by weight" of active substances.

[0302] [Tables2] Ingredient Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. comp. 1 Ex. comp. 2 Ex. comp. 3 Ex. comp. 4 Glycolipids*1 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate 5.5 5.5 5.5 5.5 5.5 5.5 5.5 Lauryl Hydroxysultaine 8.0 8.0 8.0 8.0 8.0 8.0 8.0 Sodium Chloride 2.7 2.7 2.7 2.7 2.7 2.7 2.7 Polylysine*2 0.1 0.1 0.1 - 0.1 0.1 0.1 Isostearyl Alcohol*3 0.15 0.25 - - - - - Oleyl Alcohol - - 0.15 - - - - Cetyl Alcohol - - - - - 0.25 - Cetearyl Alcohol - - - - - - 0.25 pH corrector qs pH 5.5 + 0.2 qs pH 5.5 + 0.2 qs pH 5.5 + 0.2 qs pH 5.5 + 0.2 qs pH 5.5 + 0.2 qs pH 5.5 + 0.2 qs pH 5.5 + 0.2 Water qs 10 0 qs 10 0 qsp 10 0 qsp 10 0 qsp 10 0 qsp 100 qsp 100 Viscosity (mPa.s) 1006.0 1217.0 1114.3 706.0 653.3 1387.0 1247.3 Stability at -5°C after 30 days Good Good Good Good Good Good Poor Poor Stability at 4°C after 30 days Good Good Good Good Good Poor Poor Dilution test Good Good Good Poor Good Good

[0303] *1 sold by Evonik Goldschmidt under the name Rheance One

[0304] *2 sold by Shandong Freda Biotechnology under the name Polylysine

[0305] *3 sold by Croda under the name Prisorine 3515 [Reviews] (Viscosity)

[0306] The viscosity of each of the compositions according to examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 4 was measured with a VISCOMAN™ (GILSON Technology) at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 101,325 Pa). The viscosity was measured 3 times and averaged.

[0307] The results are shown in Table 1.

[0308] A composition with a viscosity below 700 mPa·s would be likely to drip easily from the hands. Therefore, it is preferable for the composition to have a viscosity above 700 mPa·s (Stability).

[0309] Each of the compositions according to examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 4 was stored in a clear glass bottle and maintained at -5 °C or 4 °C for 30 days. After 30 days, the appearance of each composition was visually assessed according to the following criteria.

[0310] Good: Transparent

[0311] Bad: Cloudy or turbid

[0312] The results are shown in Table 1. (Dilution test)

[0313] Each of the compositions according to examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 4 was diluted with water to obtain 10 times the volume at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 101,325 Pa). The dilution test simulates the use of the composition under humid conditions, such as those in a bathroom.

[0314] The appearance of each composition was assessed visually in accordance with the following criteria.

[0315] Good: the appearance has changed from transparent to cloudy or precipitation has been observed.

[0316] Bad: no change in appearance has been observed.

[0317] The greater the precipitation during the dilution test, the more the composition can bring to a keratinous material a deposit including glycolipids.

[0318] The results are shown in Table 1. (Summary)

[0319] It was found that the compositions according to examples 1 to 3 exhibited a relatively higher viscosity of more than 700 mPa.s, were stable enough to maintain their transparent appearance at various temperatures for a long period of time, and could form a good glycolipid deposit on the skin.

[0320] The composition according to comparative example 1, which did not include (b) cationic polymer (polylysine) or (c) liquid fatty alcohol, was stable but could not form a good glycolipid deposit on the skin.

[0321] The composition according to comparative example 2, which included (b) cationic polymer (polylysine) but did not include (c) liquid fatty alcohol, had a relatively lower viscosity, which creates a problem for the application of the composition to the skin by the consumer.

[0322] The composition according to comparative example 3 which included the (b) cationic polymer (polylysine) and the solid fatty alcohol (cetyl alcohol) was unstable.

[0323] The composition according to comparative example 4 which included the (b) cationic polymer (polylysine) and the solid fatty alcohol (cetearyl alcohol) was unstable.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cleansing cosmetic composition, comprising: (a) at least one glycolipid; (b) at least one cationic polymer selected from polylysines, chitosans and mixtures thereof; and (c) at least one liquid fatty alcohol.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein (a) glycolipid is selected from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids and mixtures thereof, and preferably from rhamnolipids.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the (b) cationic polymer has a molecular weight greater than 1,000, preferably greater than 1,500, and more preferably greater than 2,000.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the (c) liquid fatty alcohol is selected from linear or branched saturated fatty alcohols in C12 to C24, linear or branched saturated fatty alcohols in C12 to C24, and mixtures thereof.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein (c) liquid fatty alcohol is selected from the group consisting of lauryl alcohol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, decyltetradecanol, and mixtures thereof, preferably isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the composition further comprises (d) at least one anionic surfactant, preferably selected from taurate-type surfactants.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the composition further comprises (e) at least one amphoteric surfactant.

8. Composition comprising: a. at least one glycolipid, b. at least one cationic polymer selected from polylysines, chitosans and mixtures thereof, and (c) at least one liquid fatty alcohol for its use in providing keratinous material with enhanced anti-inflammatory, anti-allergic or antibacterial properties.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the composition comprises, in relation to the total weight of the composition: - from 0.01% to 20% by weight of (a) at least one glycolipid; - from 0.01% to 10% by weight of (b1) at least one cationic polymer selected from polylysines; and - from 0.01% to 10% by weight of (c) at least one liquid fatty alcohol.

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