Micellar cleansing formula based on biosurfactant

A micellar cleansing composition with biosurfactants and polyglycerol esters improves makeup removal efficacy and hydration, addressing the limitations of monophasic micellar water and harsh oil-based removers.

FR3165395A3Pending Publication Date: 2026-02-13LOREAL SA
View PDF 0 Cites 0 Cited by

Patent Information

Application Number
FR2024008854
Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Utility models
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2024-08-12
Publication Date
2026-02-13
Estimated Expiration
2034-08-12
Patent Text Reader

Abstract

MICELLAR CLEANSING COMPOSITION BASED ON BIO-SURSATIC ACTIVE A monophasic micellar water cleansing composition includes a combination of surfactants that includes at least one biosurfactant and at least one polyglycerol ester surfactant, in particular one of the polyglycerol-3 and polyglycerol-4 ester surfactants, in which the combination of surfactants provides a water-rinsable composition that is visually clear and pleasant to apply with a high makeup-removing capacity. More specifically, the composition offers highly effective makeup removal exceeding the performance of at least one commercial reference containing components that are considered effective but less desirable due to the presence of harsh and less natural ingredients. The micellar cleansing composition has a pH in the range of approximately 4 to approximately 8, and may be essentially free or free of PEG / POE surfactants. Figure for abbreviation: none
Need to check novelty before this filing date? Find Prior Art

Description

Title of the invention: Micellar cleansing composition based on a biosurfactant FIELD OF INVENTION

[0001] This disclosure relates to a skin care composition, in particular, a micellar cleansing composition based on a biosurfactant and a polyglycerol ester surfactant in a micellar formulation. CONTEXT OF THE INVENTION

[0002] Monophasic micellar water as a gentle makeup remover is popular with consumers because it provides hydration and a refreshing sensation after use. The problem with monophasic micellar water is that its effectiveness in removing makeup, including foundation and mascara, especially long-lasting makeup, is relatively low compared to oil-based makeup removers. Therefore, offering a micellar cleansing composition that is both aesthetically pleasing and highly effective is a challenge. Products with alternative cleansing components, including polyethylene glycol surfactants, offer an alternative to oil-based makeup removers but can be harsh on the skin.

[0003] The inventors have formulated an innovative technology that overcomes the shortcomings of the prior art to improve the performance of a micellar water cleanser by incorporating biosurfactants, for example, but not limited to, rhamnolipid, sophorolipid, spiculisporic acid, sodium surfactin, with at least one polyglycerol ester surfactant. Through the use of these ingredients, the micellar cleansing composition is free of ingredients that are harsh, undesirable, or unsustainable and offers demonstrably improved efficacy compared to less natural or more aggressive compositions. The micellar cleansing composition is transparent and maintains the clear appearance of micellar water upon application, with a refreshing sensation after use, and offers enhanced cleansing efficacy and hydration compared to current product solutions.In some embodiments, the inventive composition is free of polyethylene glycol / polyethylene oxide (PEG / POE) surfactants. BRIEF SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

[0004] In various embodiments, the disclosure proposes a monophasic micellar cleansing composition comprising at least one biosurfactant present in an amount of at least approximately 0.1% by weight, relative to the weight of the micellar cleansing composition; at least one polyglycerol ester surfactant present in an amount that is at least approximately 0.1% by weight, relative to the weight of the micellar cleansing composition; and an aqueous vector comprising at least water, wherein the micellar cleansing composition has a pH in a range of about 5 to about 8.

[0005] In certain embodiments, the micellar cleansing composition is essentially free of one or more ingredients selected from the group consisting of cationic polymers, PEG / POE surfactants, perfume and oil, and their combinations.

[0006] In some embodiments, at least one biosurfactant is chosen from the group consisting of rhamnolipid, sophorolipid, spiculisporic acid, sodium surfactin, and their combinations.

[0007] In certain embodiments, at least one biosurfactant is selected from the group consisting of rhamnolipid, sophorolipid, spiculisporic acid, sodium surfactin, wherein if the biosurfactant is a sophorolipid, the micellar cleansing composition has a pH of at least 5, and if the biosurfactant is a rhamnolipid or a spiculisporic acid, the micellar cleansing composition has a pH of at least 5.5, and if the biosurfactant is a sodium surfactin, the micellar cleansing composition has a pH of at least 7.5.

[0008] In some embodiments, at least one polyglycerol ester surfactant is selected from the group consisting of at least one polyglycerol-3 ester surfactant and at least one polyglycerol-4 ester surfactant.

[0009] In some embodiments, at least one polyglycerol ester surfactant is selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-3 caprate, polyglyceryl-3 caprylate / caprate, polyglyceryl-3 laurate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate, polyglyceryl-4 caprylate / caprate, and their combinations.

[0010] In certain embodiments, the micellar cleansing composition expressly excludes any polyglycerol ester surfactant selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-6 / polyglyceryl-4 caprylate, polyglyceryl-3 caprylate, polyglyceryl-3 / polyglyceryl-4 caprylate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate / ricinoleate, polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-2 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, and their combinations.

[0011] In certain embodiments, the micellar cleansing composition expressly excludes surfactants and emulsifiers other than polyglycerol-3 ester surfactants and polyglycerol-4 ester surfactants, and oils other than oil-based actives such as tocopherol.

[0012] In some embodiments, at least one biosurfactant is present from at least about 0.1% to about 20%, by weight, relative to the weight of the micellar cleansing composition.

[0013] In some embodiments, at least one biosurfactant is present from at least about 0.1% to about 4%, by weight, relative to the weight of the micellar cleansing composition.

[0014] In some embodiments, at least one biosurfactant is present in the micellar cleansing composition at approximately 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the micellar cleansing composition.

[0015] In some embodiments, at least one polyglycerol ester surfactant is present in the micellar cleansing composition from at least about 0.1% to about 5%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the micellar cleansing composition.

[0016] In some embodiments, at least one polyglycerol ester surfactant includes one of the polyglyceryl-3 caprylate / caprate or polyglyceryl-4 caprate present in the micellar cleansing composition from about 0.1% to about 0.8%, by weight, relative to the weight of the micellar cleansing composition.

[0017] In some embodiments, at least one polyglycerol ester surfactant includes one of the polyglyceryl-3 caprylate / caprate or polyglyceryl-4 caprate present in the micellar cleansing composition at approximately 0.5%, by weight, relative to the weight of the micellar cleansing composition.

[0018] In some embodiments, water is present from about 85% to about 95%, by weight, relative to the weight of the micellar cleansing composition.

[0019] In some embodiments, the micellar cleansing composition comprises at least one water-based solvent selected from the group consisting of hexylene glycol, glycerin, pentylene glycol, propanediol, ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol, benzyl alcohol, phenylethyl alcohol, and their combinations.

[0020] In some embodiments, the disclosure proposes a micellar cleansing composition comprising at least one biosurfactant present from at least about 0.1% to about 4% and selected from the group consisting of rhamnolipid, sophorolipid, spiculisporic acid, sodium surfactin, and combinations thereof, at least one polyglycerol ester surfactant present from at least about 0.1% to about 5% and selected from the group consisting of at least one polyglycerol-3 ester surfactant and at least one polyglycerol-4 ester surfactant, water present from about 85% to about 95%, at least one water-based solvent comprising hexylene glycol, glycerin, or a combination thereof, each present from about 0.5% to about 5%, all amounts being by weight, relative to the weight of the micellar cleansing composition.

[0021] In certain embodiments, the micellar cleansing composition expressly excludes surfactants other than at least one polyglycerol-3 ester surfactant and at least one polyglycerol-4 ester surfactant, emulsifiers and oils other than oil-based actives such as vitamin tocopherol.

[0022] In certain embodiments, at least one biosurfactant is selected from the group consisting of rhamnolipid, sophorolipid, spiculisporic acid, sodium surfactin, wherein if the biosurfactant is a sophorolipid, the micellar cleansing composition has a pH of at least 5, and if the biosurfactant is a rhamnolipid or a spiculisporic acid, the micellar cleansing composition has a pH of at least 5.5, and if the biosurfactant is a sodium surfactin, the micellar cleansing composition has a pH of at least 7.5.

[0023] In certain embodiments, the disclosure proposes a micellar cleansing composition comprising at least one biosurfactant present at approximately 0.5% and selected from the group consisting of rhamnolipid, sophorolipid, spiculisporic acid, sodium surfactin, and combinations thereof; at least one polyglycerol ester surfactant present at approximately 0.5% and selected from the group consisting of at least one polyglycerol-3 ester surfactant and at least one polyglycerol-4 ester surfactant; water present at approximately 95%; and at least one water-based solvent comprising hexylene glycol, glycerin, or a combination thereof, each present from approximately 1% to approximately 2%, all amounts being by weight relative to the weight of the micellar cleansing composition, wherein the at least one biosurfactant is selected from the group consisting of rhamnolipid, sophorolipid, and sodium surfactin. spiculisporic acid, sodium surfactin,in which, if the biosurfactant is a sophorolipid, the micellar cleansing composition has a pH of at least 5, and if the biosurfactant is a rhamnolipid or spiculisporic acid, the micellar cleansing composition has a pH of at least 5.5, and if the biosurfactant is sodium surfactin, the micellar cleansing composition has a pH of at least 7.5.

[0024] According to some embodiments, the micellar cleansing composition has a pH in a range of about 5 to about 8, and in some embodiments, has a pH which is at least pH 5, or pH 5.5, or pH 7.5.

[0025] According to certain embodiments, the micellar cleansing composition is essentially free of one or more ingredients selected from the group consisting of cationic polymers, PEG / POE surfactants and their combinations.

[0026] It must be understood that both the preceding general description and the following detailed description are provided by way of example and explanation only, and do not limit the invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0027] In the various embodiments, the micellar cleansing composition is a micellar water essentially free of an oil phase. In some embodiments, the micellar cleansing composition is a skin cleanser, a shampoo, or a shower gel, and in some embodiments In particular, the micellar cleansing composition is a facial cleanser and / or a makeup remover.

[0028] The inventors have proposed a monophasic micellar cleansing composition having a combination of surfactants that includes at least one biosurfactant and at least one polyglycerol ester surfactant, in particular one of the polyglycerol-3 and polyglycerol-4 ester surfactants, wherein the combination of surfactants provides a water-rinsable composition that is visually clear and pleasant to apply with a high makeup-removing capacity. More specifically, the composition offers highly effective makeup removal, surpassing the performance of at least one commercial reference having components that are considered effective but less desirable due to the presence of harsh and less natural ingredients.

[0029] The inventors have demonstrated that incorporating at least one biosurfactant and at least one polyglycerol ester surfactant into monophasic micellar water results in an unexpected and significant improvement in removal efficacy compared to the current reference composition, which includes a PEG / PEO surfactant. Based on expert assessments of makeup removal efficacy, the micellar cleansing composition as disclosed has demonstrated performance that has exceeded, in some cases by 100%, a commercially available reference micellar product.

[0030] In the various embodiments, the micellar cleansing composition is suitable for application to keratinous tissue for cleansing, in particular for the removal of makeup. In some embodiments, the micellar cleansing composition is essentially free from, free from, or devoid of ingredients selected from the group consisting of aggressive chemicals, ingredients of non-natural origin, oils, silicones, film-forming agents, alcohol, parabens, perfume, sulfates, cationic polymers, PEG / POE surfactants, and their combinations.

[0031] The micellar cleansing composition may include, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the invention described herein, together with any additional or optional additive, ingredient, component or limitation described herein or otherwise useful. COMPOSITION Biosurfactant

[0032] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one biosurfactant selected from the group consisting of rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, spiculisporic acid, sodium surfactin, glucolipids, trehalolipids, cellobiose lipids, mannosylerythritol lipid, and their combinations.

[0033] In some embodiments, the micellar cleansing composition includes a single biosurfactant comprising a rhamnolipid, for example sold under the name Rheance One (TM) by Evonik (INCI name: glycolipids), present from at least about 0.1% to about 20%, or from at least about 0.1% to about 4%, or from about 0.2% to about 3%, or from about 0.4% to about 1%, or about 0.5% by weight, relative to the weight of the micellar cleansing composition.

[0034] The term "glycolipid" means a compound formed from a lipid to which one or more carbohydrate compounds are attached.

[0035] Glucolipids:

[0036] The one or more glycolipids may be glucolipids, which contain a glucose fraction and may be represented by the general formula (I):

[0037] in which:

[0038] - RI represents a hydrogen atom or a cation,

[0039] - p denotes an integer from 1 to 4, and

[0040] - q denotes an integer from 4 to 10, preferably equal to 6.

[0041] Glycolipids can be produced by the bacterium Alcaligenes sp. MM1.

[0042] The appropriate fermentation processes are reviewed by Mr. Schmidt in his doctoral thesis (1990), Technical University of Braunschweig, and by Schulz et al. (1991) Z. Naturforsch., 46C, 197-203. The glucolipids are recovered from the fermentation broth by solvent extraction using diethyl ether or a mixture of dichloromethane:methanol or chloroform:methanol.

[0043] Rhamnolipids:

[0044] One or more glycolipids may be rhamnolipids.

[0045] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises one or more rhamnolipids.

[0046] Rhamnolipids are glycolipids produced by various bacterial species. They consist of one rhamnose fragment (mono-rhamnolipid) or two rhamnose fragments (di-rhamnolipid) linked by a glycosidic bond to one, two or three [3-hydroxylated] fatty acid chains linked together by an ester bond.

[0047] More specifically, these mono-rhamnolipids and di-rhamnolipids correspond to the following formula (VI): O

[0048] in which:

[0049] - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0,

[0050] - n denotes an integer equal to 1 or 0, and

[0051] - RI and R2 each independently represent hydrocarbon radicals identical or different having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 13 carbon atoms, which are branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted, in particular hydroxy-substituted, saturated or unsaturated, preferably an alkyl radical simply, doubly or triply unsaturated.

[0052] Thus, when n is equal to 0, formula (VI) relates to mono-rhamnolipids and, when n is equal to 1, it relates to di-rhamnolipids.

[0053] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid.

[0054] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which:

[0055] - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0;

[0056] - n denotes an integer equal to 1; and

[0057] - RI and R2 each independently represent hydrocarbon radicals identical or different, having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 13 carbon atoms, which are branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted, in particular hydroxy-substituted, saturated or unsaturated, preferably an alkyl radical simply, doubly or triply unsaturated, as well as their salts, solvates and optical isomers.

[0058] The glycosidic linkage between the two rhamnose fragments can be in alpha or beta configuration and is preferably in alpha configuration.

[0059] Regarding rhamnolipids,

[0060] - the salts of di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) are more particularly their salts carboxylate with an organic or inorganic cation and in particular with a cation chosen from sodium, potassium, calcium and ammonium.

[0061] - the solvated forms of di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) are more particularly those solvated by one or more molecules of water or organic solvents, for example a hydrate or solvate of a linear or branched alcohol, such as ethanol or isopropanol, the optically active carbon atoms of fatty acids being preferably in the form of R enantiomers, and

[0062] - the term "alkyl" radical designates a saturated, linear aliphatic group or branched; for example, a C1-C20 alkyl group having a linear or branched hydrocarbon chain of 1 to 20 carbon atoms, more particularly a methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl or eicosyl group.

[0063] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which:

[0064] - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0;

[0065] - n denotes an integer equal to 1; and

[0066] - RI and R2, which are identical or different, are chosen from among the radicals pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl and tridecenyl and radicals of formula -(CH2)oCH3, o denoting an integer from 1 to 23, in particular from 3 to 15 and more particularly from 4 to 12.

[0067] In some embodiments, the rhamnolipids are chosen from the di-rhamnolipids of general formula (VI) in which m is equal to 1.

[0068] According to some embodiments, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of at least two, or at least three, di-rhamnolipids of general formula (VI) in which m is preferably equal to 1.

[0069] According to some embodiments, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture comprising at least one mono-rhamnolipid.

[0070] According to certain embodiments, a rhamnolipid is a di-rhamnolipid of the following formula (VII):

[0071] in which:

[0072] - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0; preferably, m is equal to 1,

[0073] - n denotes an integer equal to 1,

[0074] - RI is a radical (CH2)p-CH3, where p is an integer ranging from 1 to 23, Preference for 4 to 12,

[0075] - R2 is a radical -(CH2)q-CH3, q being an integer ranging from 1 to 23, of Preference for 4 to 12,

[0076] and also their salts, their solvates and their optical isomers.

[0077] By way of illustration and without limiting the di-rhamnolipides of formula (VII) which may be suitable for the invention, particular mention may be made of the compounds of formula di-RL-CXCY, as defined in Table A below.

[0078] The formula di-RL-CXCY is a variant of writing to represent a di-rhamnolipid (di-RL) functionalized by two radicals RI and R2 respectively represented by the symbols CX and CY, the integers X and Y being respectively equal to p+4 and q+4.

[0079] [Table 1[ TABLE#A#: di-rhamnolipids of formula#(VII)

[0080] Compounds Di-RL-CXCY PQ 1 4 4 3 4 6 3 6 4 4 6 g 5 6 S 6 S 6 * ■f oi-cncu. 8 S s »1-02014 S 10 1<> 4^014014 10 w H h 12 _____ __ .......10 13 «L-OSC16 12 12

[0081] According to some embodiments, a rhamnolipid is a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1, also called di-RL-ClOCIO, or one of its salts, solvated and optical isomers.

[0082] According to some embodiments, a rhamnolipid is a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1 is present in the composition according to the invention in a proportion of at least 50% by weight and preferably from 51% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the rhamnolipids.

[0083] According to some embodiments, a rhamnolipid is a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which m is equal to 1, p is equal to 6 and q is equal to 8.

[0084] According to some embodiments, a rhamnolipid is a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1, RI represents a radical -(CH2)oCH3, o being an integer ranging from 4 to 12, and R2 is chosen from the pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl and tridecenyl radicals; preferably, RI represents a radical -(CH2)6CH3 and R2 a nonenyl radical.

[0085] According to some embodiments, a rhamnolipid is at least two, or at least three, di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) or formula (VII) selected from:

[0086] - a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1;

[0087] - a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which m is equal to 1, p is equal to 6 and q is equal to 8; and

[0088] - at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1, RI represents a radical -(CH2)oCH3, o being an integer ranging from 4 to 12, and R2 is chosen from the pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl and tridecenyl radicals; preferably, RI represents a radical -(CH2)6CH3 and R2 a nonenyl radical.

[0089] According to some embodiments, a rhamnolipid is at least two, or at least three, di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) or formula (VII) selected from:

[0090] - at least 50% by weight and preferably from 51% to 85% by weight of a di- rhamnolipide of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1, with respect to the total weight of rhamnolipides.

[0091] - from 0.5% to 25% by weight, or from 5% to 15% by weight, of a dirhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p is equal to 6, q is equal to 8 and m is equal to 1, with respect to the total weight of rhamnolipids, and

[0092] - from 0.5% to 15% by weight, or from 3% to 12% by weight, preferably from 5% to 10% in weight, of a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1, RI represents a radical -(CH2)6CH3 and R2 represents a nonenyl radical, relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids.

[0093] As specified above, rhamnolipids are usually prepared by processes known to those skilled in the art from bacterial producers, such as Pseudomonas.

[0094] Suitable fermentation processes are reviewed by D. Haferburg, R. Hommel, R. Claus and HP Kleber in Adv. Biochem. Ing. / Biotechnol. (1986), 33, 53-90, and by F. Wagner, H. Bock and A. Kretschmar in Fermentation (ed. RM Lafferty) (1981), 181-192, Springer Verlag, Vienna.

[0095] The rhamnolipide sold under the name Rheance One by Evonik (INCI name: glycolipids) can be used as a rhamnolipide.

[0096] Sophorolipids:

[0097] One or more glycolipids may be sophorolipids, which contain a sophorose fraction and may be represented by the general formula (II):

[0098] in which:

[0099] - R3 and R4 individually represent a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group,

[0100] - R5 represents a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group, hydroxylated or not hydroxylated, having from 1 to 9 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl,

[0101] - R6 represents a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group, hydroxylated or not hydroxylated having from 1 to 19 carbon atoms, provided that the total number of carbon atoms in groups R5 and R6 does not exceed 20 and is preferably from 14 to 18.

[0102] Sophorolipids can be incorporated into the composition according to the present invention either in the form of the open-chain free acid, where R7 represents a hydrogen atom and R8 represents a hydroxy group OH, or in its lactone form, where a lactone ring is formed between R7 and R8, as indicated by formula (III): (III) 4 ^5 R

[0103] in which:

[0104] - R3, R4, R5 and R6 are as defined above,

[0105] provided that at least one of R3 and R4 represents an acetyl group.

[0106] Sophorolipids can be produced by yeast cells, for example Torulopsis apicola and Torulopsis bombicola cells. The fermentation process generally uses sugars and alkanes as substrates.

[0107] Suitable fermentation processes are reviewed in AP Tulloch, JFT Spencer and PAJ Gorin, Can. J. Chem. (1962), 40, 1326, and U. Gobbert, S. Lang and F. Wagner, Biotechnology Letters (1984), 6 (4), 225. The resulting product is a mixture of various open-chain sophorolipids and sophorolipid lactones which can be used in mixtures, or the required form can be isolated.

[0108] It is possible to use as sophorolipids, for example that sold under the name Sopholiance S by Givaudan and that sold under the name BioToLife by BASF.

[0109] Trehalolipids:

[0110] One or more glycolipids may be trehalolipids, which contain a trehalose fragment and may be represented by the general formula (IV):

[0111] in which:

[0112] - R9, RIO and RI1 individually represent a saturated hydrocarbon radical or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated, having from 5 to 13 carbon atoms.

[0113] Trehalolipids can be produced by bacterial fermentation using the marine bacterium Arthrobacter sp. Ek 1 or the freshwater bacterium Rhodococcus erythropolis. Suitable fermentation methods are proposed by Ishigami et al. (1987), J. Jpn. Oil Chem. Soc., 36, 847-851, Schultz et al. (1991), Z. Naturforsch., 46C, 197-203, and Passeri et al. (1991), Z. Naturforsch., 46C, 204-209.

[0114] Cellobiose lipids:

[0115] One or more glycolipids may be cellobiose lipids, which contain a cellobiose fragment and may be represented by the general formula (V):

[0116] in which:

[0117] - RI represents a hydrogen atom or a cation,

[0118] - R12 represents a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, hydroxylated or not hydroxylated, having from 9 to 15 carbon atoms, preferably 13 carbon atoms,

[0119] - RI3 represents a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group;

[0120] - R14 represents a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, hydroxylated or not hydroxylated, having from 4 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0121] Cellobiose lipids can be produced by fungal cells of the genus Ustilago. Suitable fermentation processes are proposed by Frautz, Lang and Wagner (1986), Biotech. Letts., 8, 757-762.

[0122] In certain embodiments, the concentration of at least one biosurfactant is from at least approximately 0.1% to approximately 20%, or from at least approximately 0.1% to approximately 4%, or from approximately 0.2% to approximately 3%, or from approximately 0.4% to approximately 1%, or from approximately 0.1% to approximately 0.8%, or from approximately 0.2% to approximately 0.7%, or from approximately 0.3% to approximately 0.6%, or approximately 0.5%, or any appropriate combination, subcombination, range, or subrange of these values ​​by weight, relative to the weight of the micellar cleansing composition. However, those skilled in the art will understand that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.

[0123] Thus, at least one biosurfactant is present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the micellar cleansing composition, in approximately 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2.0, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4, 2.5, 2.6, 2.7, 2.8, 2.9, 3.0, 3.1, 3.2, 3.3, 3.4, 3.5, 3.6, 3.7, 3.8, 3.9, 4.0, 4.1, 4.2, 4.3, 4.4, 4.5, 4.6, 4.7, 4.8, 4.9, 5, 6.7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, at approximately 20 percent by weight, including increments and intermediate ranges. Polyglycerol ester surfactant

[0124] In the various embodiments, the micellar cleansing composition comprises at least one polyglycerol ester surfactant comprising at least one polyglycerol-3 ester surfactant and at least one polyglycerol-4 ester surfactant.

[0125] Variously, the polyglycerol-3 ester and polyglycerol-4 ester surfactants may be selected from known surfactants, including, but not limited to, surfactants selected from the group consisting of apricot kernel oil polyglyceryl-3 esters, apricot kernel oil polyglyceryl-4 esters, babassu oil polyglyceryl-4 esters, borage seed oil polyglyceryl-3 esters, candelilla / jojoba / rice bran polyglyceryl-3 diisostearoyl dilinoleate dimer, linseed oil polyglyceryl-4 esters, olive oil polyglyceryl-3 esters, olive oil polyglyceryl-4 esters, palm oil polyglyceryl-4 esters, polyglyceryl-3 esters palm oil, polyglyceryl-4 esters of palm oil, polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, polyglyceryl-3 behenate, polyglyceryl-3 caprate, polyglyceryl-3 caprylate, polyglyceryl-3 cocoate,polyglyceryl-3 dihydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3 dicaprate, polyglyceryl-3 dicitrate / stearate, polyglyceryl-3 dicocoate, polyglyceryl-3 dihydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 dioleate, polyglyceryl-3 distearate, polyglyceryl-3 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 laurate, polyglyceryl-3 myristate, polyglyceryl-3 oleate, polyglyceryl-3 palmitate, polyglyceryl-3 pentacaprylate / caprate, pentaolivate, of polyglyceryl-3, polyglyceryl-3 pentaricinoleate, polyglyceryl-3 esters derived from rice bran, polyglyceryl-3 ricinoleate, polyglyceryl-3 esters derived from soy / shea butter, polyglyceryl-3 stearate, polyglyceryl-3 stearate SE, polyglyceryl-3 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 triolivate, polyglyceryl-4 esters derived from almond / shea butter, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-4 caprylate, polyglyceryl-4 caprylate / caprate, polyglyceryl-4 cocoate, polyglyceryl-4 dilaurate, polyglyceryl-4 distearate, polyglyceryl-4 esters derived from hazelnut seed, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate / laurate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate / sebacate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate / succinate, polyglyceryl-4 oleate, polyglyceryl-4 pentaoleate, polyglyceryl-4 pentapalmitate / stearate, polyglyceryl-4 pentastearate, polyglyceryl-4 punicate, polyglyceryl-4 stearate,polyglyceryl-4 esters derived from sweet almond, polyglyceryl-4 tristearate, polyglyceryl-4 esters from pumpkin seed oil, succinate of polyglyceryl-4 esters from pumpkin seed oil, polyglyceryl-3 esters from rice bran oil, polyglyceryl-3 esters from shea butter, polyglyceryl-4 esters from shea butter, polyglyceryl-3 esters from sunflower seed oil, polyglyceryl-4 esters from sunflower seed oil, polyglyceryl-4 esters from sweet almond oil, triisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate, and combinations thereof.

[0126] In some embodiments, the micellar cleansing composition comprises at least one polyglycerol-3 ester surfactant and at least one polyglycerol-4 ester surfactant selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-3 caprate, polyglyceryl-3 caprylate / caprate, polyglyceryl-3 laurate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate, polyglyceryl-4 caprylate / caprate, and their combinations.

[0127] In certain embodiments, the micellar cleansing composition expressly excludes any other polyglycerol ester surfactant. In certain embodiments, the micellar cleansing composition expressly excludes any polyglycerol ester surfactant selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-6 / polyglyceryl-4 caprylate, polyglyceryl-3 caprylate, polyglyceryl-3 / polyglyceryl-4 caprylate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate / ricinoleate, polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-2 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, and combinations thereof.

[0128] In certain embodiments, the micellar cleansing composition expressly excludes surfactants other than at least one polyglycerol-3 ester surfactant and at least one polyglycerol-4 ester surfactant, emulsifiers and oils other than oil-based actives such as vitamin tocopherol.

[0129] At least one polyglycerol ester surfactant may be present in the micellar cleansing composition in a range of at least about 0.1% to about 5%, relative to the weight of the micellar cleansing composition.

[0130] In various embodiments, each of the at least one polyglycerol ester surfactant may be present in an amount in the range of at least about 0.1% to about 20%, and the total amount of surfactant may be present from about 0.1% to about 20%. In some embodiments, each of the at least one polyglycerol ester surfactant is present in an amount that is at least 0.1%, or about 0.5%, or any intermediate value, range, or sub-range by weight, relative to the weight of the micellar cleansing composition.

[0131] In some embodiments, at least one polyglycerol ester surfactant includes one of the polyglyceryl-3 caprylate / caprate or polyglyceryl-4 caprate present in the micellar cleansing composition in a range of about 0.1% to about 0.8%, or about 0.5%.

[0132] Thus, in various embodiments, each of the at least one polyglycerol ester surfactant may be present in a composition according to the disclosure of approximately 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2.0, 2.1, 2,2, 2,3, 2,4, 2,5, 2,6, 2,7, 2,8, 2,9, 3,0, 3,1, 3,2, 3,3, 3,4, 3,5, 3,6, 3,7, 3,8, 3,9, 4,0, 4,1, 4,2, 4,3, 4,4, 4,5, 4,6, 4,7, 4,8, 4,9, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 to approximately 20 percent by weight, including increments and intermediate ranges. VECTOR AND OPTIONAL ADDITIVES Water and water-based solvents

[0133] In various embodiments, water is present in the micellar composition in a range of approximately 70% to approximately 99%, or approximately 85% to approximately 95%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range of these values, by weight relative to the weight of the micellar cleansing composition. However, those skilled in the art will understand that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.

[0134] Thus, water is present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the micellar cleansing composition, from about 70, 71, 72, 73, 74, 75, 76, 77, 78, 79, 80, 81, 82, 83, 84, 85, 86, 87, 88, 89, 90, 91, 92, 93, 94, 95, 96, 97, 98, to about 99 percent by weight, including increments and intermediate ranges.

[0135] The water used may be sterile demineralized water and / or floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or linden water, and / or natural thermal or mineral water such as, for example: Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, La Roche-Posay water, La Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint-Gervais-les-Bains water, Néris-les-Bains water, water The water from Allevar-les-Bains, Digne, Maizières, Neyrac-les-Bains, Lons-le-Saunier, Eaux-Bonnes, Rochefort, Saint-Christau, Les Fumades, Tercis-les-Bains, or Avène can be used. The aqueous phase may also include reconstituted thermal water, that is, water containing trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., recreating the characteristics of thermal water.

[0136] As a general rule, the pH can be corrected to the desired value by adding a base or an acid (organic or inorganic). Given the inclusion of hydroxy acids in the present micellar cleansing composition, the pH is typically corrected using a base, which in some examples is sodium hydroxide, or using an acid, which in some examples is citric acid.

[0137] In some embodiments, the micellar cleansing composition includes one or more water-based solvents, for example, selected from the group consisting of glycols, monoalcohols such as CrC8 monohydric alcohols, and combinations thereof. In some embodiments, the micellar cleansing composition includes one or more water-based solvents, for example, selected from the group consisting of hexylene glycol, glycerin, pentylene glycol, propanediol, ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol, benzyl alcohol, phenylethyl alcohol, and combinations thereof.

[0138] In various embodiments, the amount of water-based solvent present in the micellar cleansing composition is in the range of approximately 0.5% to approximately 20%, or approximately 1% to approximately 2%, or up to approximately 5%, or up to approximately 10%, or any appropriate combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range of these values, by weight relative to the weight of the micellar cleansing composition. However, those skilled in the art will understand that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.

[0139] In some embodiments, the micellar cleansing composition includes at least one water-based solvent comprising hexylene glycol, glycerin, or a combination thereof, each of which may be present from approximately 0.5% to approximately 15%, or from approximately 1% to approximately 2%. In some embodiments, the micellar cleansing composition includes no more than 5%, or no more than 10%, of water-based solvents (other than water). In some embodiments, the micellar cleansing composition includes approximately 0.5% to approximately 1.5%, or approximately 0.9% to approximately 1%, of glycerin and approximately 1% to approximately 3%, or approximately 1.5% to approximately 2%, of hexylene glycol.

[0140] In certain embodiments, the composition excludes water-based solvents, for example, those selected from the group consisting of hexylene glycol, glycerin, pentylene glycol, propanediol, ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol, benzyl alcohol, phenylethyl alcohol, and their combinations.

[0141] Thus, any one or combination of water-based solvents may be present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the micellar cleansing composition, from about 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 to about 20 percent by weight, including increments and intermediate ranges. Optional additives

[0142] In some embodiments, the micellar cleansing composition includes one or more other optional ingredients selected from the group consisting of skin care actives, humectants, revitalizing agents, thickeners, viscosity correctors, cooling agents, fillers, antimicrobials, preservatives, pH correctors, chelating agents, and combinations thereof.

[0143] In some embodiments, the micellar cleansing composition includes an optional additive comprising the preservative myrtrimonium bromide present from about 0.01% to about 0.1%, or from about 0.06% to about 0.07% by weight of the composition and disodium EDTA from about 0.05% to about 0.2%, or from about 0.1% to about 0.15%.

[0144] In certain embodiments, a micellar cleansing composition includes at least one additive used in the cosmetic field which does not negatively affect the properties of the micellar cleansing composition according to the invention, such as perfumes, pH adjusters (citric acid, sodium chloride, lactic acid); neutralizing agents or pH adjusters (for example, triethylamine (TEA) and sodium hydroxide, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate and their combinations), other cosmetically acceptable additives, such as, but not limited to, pearlescent agents, silica and coloring materials; essential oils; fruit extracts, for example, Pyrus Malus (apple) extract and Aloe Barbadensis leaf juice powder; active ingredients (for example, hydroxyacetophenone); vitamins (e.g., vitamin A, beta-carotene, tocopherol / vitamin E, panthenol, retinol, resveratrol, vitamin C, niacinamide, their derivatives and combinations);hyaluronic acid in the form of hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid or sodium hyaluronate; coloring materials / pigments; essential oils; antioxidants (phenolic compounds, such as chalcones, flavones, flavanones, flavanols, flavonols, dihydroflavonols, isoflavonoids, neoflavonoids, catechins, anthocyanins, tannins, lignans, aurones, stilbenoids, curcuminoids, alkylphenols, betacyanins, capsacinoids, hydroxybenzoketones, methoxyphenols, naphthoquinones and phenolic terpenes, resveratrol, curcumin, pinoresinol, ferulic acid, hydroxytyrosol, cinnamic acid, caffeic acid, p-coumaric acid, baicalin (Scutellaria Baicalensis root extract), extract; pine bark (Pinus Pinaster bark / bud extract), ellagic acid); vitamins and vitamin derivatives, such as calcium pantothenate, tocopherol, and ascorbic acid; hydroxy acids; citric acid, sodium citrate, sodium chloride; neutralizing, chelating, or pH-adjusting agents (e.g., triethylamine (TEA), trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, EDTA, and sodium hydroxide); powders, perfumes, dyes, pigments; organic or mineral UV filters; conditioning agents such as C12-15 alkyl lactate and C12-15 alcohols; thickeners, e.g., ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, propylene glycol, and PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate; viscosity adjusters, e.g., sodium chloride and hexylene glycol; cooling agents such as menthol; fillers, e.g., kaolin; or any combination thereof.Although the optional additives are given as examples, it will be understood that other optional components compatible with cosmetic applications known in the art may be used.

[0145] In the various embodiments, the quantity of one or more additives, alone or in combination, present in the micellar cleansing composition can be from about 0.0001% to about 50%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.005% to about 0.01%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.01% to about 0.1%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.15% to about 5%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.40% to about 4%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.5% to about 2.5%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.1% to about 0.5%, and in some embodiments, from about 1% to about 2%, or any appropriate combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range of these values ​​by weight, relative to the total weight of the micellar cleansing composition. However, a person skilled in the art will understand that other beaches fall within the scope of the invention.

[0146] Thus, an additive or a combination of additives may be present by weight, relative to the total weight of the cleaning composition, each additive or combination being present in approximately 0.0001, 0.0005, 0.001, 0.002, 0.003, 0.004, 0.005, 0.006, 0.007, 0.008, 0.009, 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0.80, 0.90, 1.0, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, at approximately 50 percent by weight, including increments and intermediate ranges.

[0147] In certain embodiments, one or more additives in the micellar cleansing composition may include one or more chelating agents selected from trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, tetrasodium etidronate, tetrasodium pyrophosphate, ethylenediamine tetramethylene phosphonate pentasodium, sodium staminate and their combinations.

[0148] In some embodiments, the micellar cleansing composition may include one or more water-soluble solvents, for example, glycerin, alcohols (for example, C1-C30, C1-C15, C1-C10 or C1-C4 alcohols), polyols, glycols and their combinations. Examples of organic solvents include, but are not limited to, monoalcohols and polyols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, and phenylethyl alcohol; glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl-, monoethyl-, and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, or their ethers such as, for example, monomethyl ethers of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and dipropylene glycol; and alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether. Other suitable examples of organic solvents are ethylene glycol,Propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propanediol, and glycerin. Organic solvents can be volatile or non-volatile compounds. Other non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include alkanols (polyhydric alcohols such as glycols and polyols) such as glycerin, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,3-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, tetraethylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, (caprylyl glycol), 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol and 4-methyl-1,2-pentanediol; alkyl alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, methanol, butanol,propanol and isopropanol; glycol ethers such as monomethyl ethylene glycol ether, monoethyl ethylene glycol ether, monobutyl ethylene glycol ether, ethylene glycol acetate monomethyl ether, monomethyl diethylene glycol ether, monoethyl diethylene glycol ether, mono-n-propyl diethylene glycol ether, mono-isopropyl ethylene glycol ether, mono-isopropyl diethylene glycol ether, mono-n-butyl ethylene glycol ether, mono-t-butyl ethylene glycol ether, mono-t-butyl diethylene glycol ether, 1-methyl-l-methoxybutanol, monomethyl propylene glycol ether, monoethyl propylene glycol ether, mono-t-butyl propylene glycol ether, mono-n-propyl propylene glycol ether, mono-isopropyl propylene glycol ether, monomethyl dipropylene glycol ether, monoethyl dipropylene glycol ether, mono-n-propyl dipropylene glycol ether and mono-iso-propyl dipropylene glycol ether; 2-pyrrolidone, N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone, l,3-Dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone, formamide, acetamide, , dimethyl sulfoxide, sorbitan, sorbitan, acetin, diacetinate, triacetin, sulfolane, and their combinations.

[0149] In certain embodiments, the micellar cleansing composition may include one or more preservatives selected from organic acids, parabens, formaldehyde donors, phenol derivatives, quaternary ammonium compounds, alcohols, including isothiazolinones, members of the paraben family such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or isobutyl parabens, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid, alcohol preservatives including, but not limited to, ethanol, benzyl alcohol, dichlorobenzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, benzoic acid, sorbic acid, dehydroacetic acid, triclosan, benzyl alcohol, chlorophenesin or salicylic acid, caprylyl glycol, myrtrimonium bromide, phenoxyethanol, hydroxyacetophenone, ethylhexylglycerin, chlorphenesin, cetrimonium chloride, hexylglycerin, octylglycerin, benzylglycerin, 3-heptoyl-2,2-propandiol and 1,2-hexandiol;Polyaminopropyl biguanide, also known as polyhexamethylene biguanide, or PHMB; alkyl parahydroxybenzoates, in which the alkyl group has 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, or 6 carbon atoms, and for example, 1 to 4 carbon atoms, e.g., methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, and isobutylparaben; formaldehyde-donating preservatives include, but are not limited to, 1,3-dimethylol-5,5-dimethylhydantoin (DMDM hydantoin), imidazolidinyl urea, and gluteraldehyde; quaternary ammonium preservatives include, but are not limited to, 1,3-dimethylol-5,5-dimethylhydantoin (DMDM hydantoin), imidazolidinyl urea, and gluteraldehyde; quaternary ammonium preservatives include, but are not limited to limit, benzalkonium chloride, methene ammonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, methylchloroisothiazolinone, methylisothiazolinone and their combinations. ;

[0150] In some embodiments, the micellar cleansing composition may include one or more oils. In some embodiments, the micellar cleansing composition is essentially oil-free, free of oils, or devoid of oils. In some examples, the oils may be selected from hydrocarbon-based oils. For example, the hydrocarbon-based oil may be a saturated hydrocarbon, an unsaturated hydrocarbon, lipids, triglycerides, a natural oil, and / or a synthetic oil. In some embodiments, the micellar cleansing composition may include a synthetic oil selected from the group consisting of hydrogenated polyisobutene and hydrogenated polydecene. A hydrocarbon-based oil may be a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, such as: i. Oils based on hydrocarbons of vegetable origin, such as glyceride triesters, which are generally triesters of fatty acids and glycerol, whose fatty acids can have varying chain lengths from C4 to C24, knowing that these chains can be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched; These oils include, in particular, wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea butter, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin seed oil, cucurbit oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, and passionflower oil. rosehip oil and essential oils, such as Helianthus Annuus seed oil, Lavandula Angustifolia (lavender) oil,Mentha Piperita oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis (rosemary) leaf oil, Pelargonium Graveolens flower oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (orange) peel oil, Menthe Viridis (spearmint) leaf oil, Citrus Aurantifolia (lime) oil, Melaleuca Alternifolia (tea tree) leaf oil, Citrus Grandis (grapefruit) peel oil, Citrus Medica Limonum (lemon) peel oil, rose flower oil, eucalyptus globulus leaf oil, and combinations thereof. ii. synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms; iii. linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam and squalane 40; iv. synthetic esters, for example oils of the formula RCOOR' in which R represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon-based chain that is notably branched, containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R + R' equals 10, for example, Purcellin oil (cetearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, such as the product sold under the trade name Finsolv TN(TM) or Witconol TN(TM) by Witco or Tegosoft TN(TM) by Evonik Goldschmidt, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, such as the commercial product sold under the name X-Tend 226 by ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate, such as the product sold under the name "Dub Dis" by Stéarinerie Dubois,octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols, or polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates, such as linear C12-C13 di(alkyl) tartrates, such as those sold under the name Cosmacol ETI(TM) by Enichem Augusta Industriale, as well as linear C14-C15 di(alkyl) tartrates, such as those sold under the name Cosmacol ETL(TM) by the same company; or acetates; v. fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature, containing a branched and / or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for example octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2-undecylpentadecanol; vi. higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid; vii. carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, such as the product sold under the name Cetiol CC(TM) by Cognis; viii. fatty amides, such as isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, such as the product sold under the trade name Eldew SL 205(TM) by Ajinomoto; and ix. The essential oils chosen from the group consisting of sunflower oil, sesame oil, peppermint oil, macadamia nut oil, tea tree oil, evening primrose oil, sage oil, rosemary oil, coriander oil, thyme oil, chili berry oil, rose oil, anise oil, balsam fir oil, bergamot oil, rosewood oil, cedarwood oil, chamomile oil, sage oil, clary sage oil, clove oil, cypress oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, sea fennel oil, frankincense oil, geranium oil, ginger oil, grapefruit oil, jasmine oil, juniper oil, lavender oil, lemon oil, lemon verbena oil, lime oil, mandarin oil, marjoram oil, myrrh oil, oil of neroli,Orange oil, patchouli oil, pepper oil, black pepper oil, bitter orange petitgrain oil, pine oil, rose otto oil, rosemary oil, sandalwood oil, spearmint oil, spikenard oil, vetiver oil, wintergreen oil, and ylang-ylang.

[0151] In some embodiments, the micellar cleansing composition may include at least one liquid alkane, branched or linear, having a carbon chain length from C1 to C20. In various embodiments, the liquid alkanes may be selected from those having a carbon chain length from C1 to C20. The liquid alkanes may be selected from those having a carbon chain length from C1 to C20, or from C15 to C19, or from C12, C13, C14, C15, C16, C17, C18 and C19. In certain particular embodiments, suitable liquid alkanes that may be used according to the disclosure include hydrocarbon-based oils containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular branched C8-C16 alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes. In some exemplary embodiments, these liquid alkanes may be selected from isoparaffins, for example isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, and isohexadecane.

[0152] In certain embodiments, one or more additives in the micellar cleansing composition may include one or more waxes, in which a wax is a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25 °C), with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 °C, which may go up to 200 °C and in particular up to 120 °C, and selected from waxes that are solid at room temperature of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.Examples include hydrocarbon waxes, for example beeswax, lanolin wax, Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, camauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, alfa wax, berry wax, lacquer wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; lignite wax, orange wax and lemon wax, refined sunflower wax sold under the name Sunflower Wax by Koster Keunen, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.

[0153] In some embodiments, the micellar cleanser may include one or more amphoteric surfactants (or zwitterionic surfactants). In some embodiments, the micellar cleansing composition comprises more than one amphoteric surfactant. In some embodiments, the micellar cleansing composition may include or exclude one or more nonionic, cationic, or anionic surfactants, and in particular embodiments, it excludes PEG / POE surfactants. In some embodiments, the micellar cleansing composition includes a combination of amphoteric surfactants. In some embodiments, at least one amphoteric surfactant may include cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, coco betaine, sodium lauroamphoacetate, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, or a combination thereof.In certain specific embodiments, the micellar cleansing composition includes a combination of surfactants that include cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, coco betaine, sodium lauroamphoacetate, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, or a combination thereof. In some embodiments, at least one amphoteric surfactant may be selected from, for example, betaines, alkyl sultaines, alkyl amphoathetastes, alkyl amphoathetastes, and alkyl amphoathetastes. amphopropionates, amphocarboxylates, alkyl betaines, amidoalkyl betaines, amphophosphates, phosphobetaines, pyrophosphobetaines, carboxyalkylpolyamines, amidoalkyl sultaines, their salts, or mixtures thereof.

[0154] Betaines that may be used in these compositions include those conforming to the formulas below: CH3 I Rio -N+- (CH2)n- COO I CH3 CH2-CH2-OH I R10- C - N - CH2- CH2- N+- CH2COO' II OH H CH3 I R10-N+- (CH2)n- SO3' CH3 ch3 Rw - C - N - (CH2)n- N+-CH2COO' II OH CH

[0155] in which

[0156] - R10 is an alkyl group having 8 to 18 carbon atoms; and

[0157] - n is an integer from 1 to 3.

[0158] Particularly useful betaines include, for example, cocamidopropyl betaine, lauryl betaine, laurylhydroxysulfobetaine, lauryldimethyl betaine, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, behenyl betaine, capryl / capramidopropyl betaine, lauryl hydroxysultaine, stearyl betaine, and mixtures thereof. In some embodiments, at least one betaine compound is selected from the group consisting of coco betaine, cocoamidopropyl betaine, behenyl betaine, capryl / capramidopropyl betaine, lauryl betaine, and mixtures thereof, and most typically coco betaine.

[0159] Hydroxyl sultaines useful in micellar cleansing compositions include those of the following formula

[0160]

[0161]

[0162]

[0163] □ QHi RC —— N™™ CH^CHCH^Qg CH3 OH in which - R is an alkyl group having 8 to 18 carbon atoms. More specific examples include, but are not limited to, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, lauryl hydroxysultaine, or mixtures thereof. Useful alkylamphoacetates include those meeting the formula

[0164]

[0165]

[0166]

[0167]

[0168]

[0169]

[0170]

[0171] in which - R is an alkyl group having 8 to 18 carbon atoms. Useful alkyl amphodiacetates include those conforming to the formula: glllllg^ R- X.,- 'Q OH in which - R is an alkyl group having 8 to 18 carbon atoms. Alkyl amphopropionates Non-limiting examples of useful d1 alkyl amphopropionates include cocoamphopropionate, caprylamphopropionate, maisamphopropionate, caproamphopropionate, oleoamphopropionate, isostearoamphopropionate, stearoamphopropionate, lauroamphopropionate, their salts, or mixtures thereof. At least one amphoteric surfactant of this disclosure may be optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, wherein the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for example a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

[0172] In certain embodiments, the micellar cleanser may include one or more co-emulsifiers or surfactants selected from isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, methyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, hexyl laurate, ethylhexyl laurate, isopropyl laurate, ethylhexyl oleate, ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, myristyle myristate, 2-ethylhexyl caprate / caprylate (or octyl caprate / caprylate), isostearyl neopentanoate, cetearyl ethylhexanoate, isopropyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate, the Coco caprylate / caprate, diisopropyl adipate, lactic acid esters of fatty alcohols comprising 12 or 13 carbon atoms, polyglyceryl-10 caprate, polyglyceryl-10 caprylate / caprate, polyglyceryl-10 cocoate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate,polyglyceryl-10 stearate, polyglyceryl-11 cocoate, polyglyceryl-11 myristate, polyglyceryl-11 oleate, polyglyceryl-11 stearate, polyglyceryl-12 cocoate, polyglyceryl-12 myristate, polyglyceryl-12 oleate, polyglyceryl-12 stearate, polyglyceryl-2 oleate, polyglyceryl-5 caprate, polyglyceryl-5 caprylate / caprate, polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 caprate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate / caprate, polyglyceryl-6 cocoate, polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, polyglyceryl-6 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 myristate, polyglyceryl-7 caprate, caprylate / caprate polyglyceryl-7, polyglyceryl-7 cocoate, polyglyceryl-7 laurate, polyglyceryl-7 myristate, polyglyceryl-8 caprate, polyglyceryl-8 caprylate / caprate, polyglyceryl-8 cocoate, polyglyceryl-8 laurate, polyglyceryl-8 myristate, polyglyceryl-9 caprate,Polyglyceryl-9 caprylate / caprate, polyglyceryl-9 cocoate, polyglyceryl-9 laurate, polyglyceryl-9 myristate, and their combinations.

[0173] In some embodiments, the micellar cleanser may include one or more cationic polymers. The cationic polymers may be selected from naturally derived polymers that are polysaccharides, and other naturally derived (i.e., of plant, animal, or bacterial origin), synthetic, or modified cationic polymers of natural or synthetic origin, in which a naturally derived polymer may be selected from cationic forms and cationic derivatives of polysaccharides isolated from algae, polysaccharides produced by microorganisms, and polysaccharides from higher plants, such as homogeneous polysaccharides. A naturally derived cationic polymer may be selected from polysaccharides that include chitosan, chitin, starches, alginates, celluloses, galactomannans such as guar gums, in particular their cationic derivatives, including chitosan, chitosan oligosaccharide, chitosan polymer having a molecular weight (MW) of 1 kDa to about 1000 kDa, chitosan derivatives, chitosan derivatives having enhanced solubility, cyclodextrin, cationic gelatin, cationic dextran, cationic cellulose, polylysine, polyornithine, histone, collagen, chitosan-cysteine, chitosan-thiobutylamidine, chitosan-thioglycolic acid, chitin, starch, starch derivatives, cellulose (e.g., but not limited to, ethylcellulose, nitrocellulose, hemicellulose and hemicellulose derivatives), alginates, including, but not limited to, sodium alginate, and combinations thereof. Examples of cationic polymers also include polysaccharide-based delivery molecules (e.g., chitosan, cyclodextrin, cationic gelatin, cationic dextran, cationic cellulose), cationic peptides and their derivatives (e.g., polylysine, polyornithine), peptide / protein polymers (e.g., histone,collagen), linear or branched synthetic polymers (e.g., polybrene, polyethyleneimine), natural polymers (e.g., histone, collagen), synthetic dendrimers, thiolated cationic biopolymers (naturally occurring thiomers or naturally occurring dendrimers, e.g., chitosan-cysteine, chitosan-thiobutylamidine, and chitosan-thioglycolic acid), including methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, and carboxymethylcelluloses, mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galacturonans, alginate-based compounds, chitin, glucuronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, fructans such as rinulin, pectic acids and pectins, arabinogalactans, agars, glycosaminoglycans, arabic gums, tragacanth gums, ghatti gums, karaya gums, locust bean gums,Biopolysaccharide gums of microbial origin such as scleroglucan or xanthan gums, mucopolysaccharides, chondroitin sulfates, and mixtures thereof. Cationic polymers may be selected from synthetic polymers. In some examples, the synthetic polymers are not silicone-based, and in some embodiments, they may be selected from the group consisting of polyquaterniums, i.e., polymers having quaternary ammonium centers within the polymer, for example, including polyquaternium-47 (1-Propanaminium, N,N,N-trimethyl-3-[(2-methyl-1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-, chloride,polymer with methyl 2-propenoate and 2-propenoic acid). Other non-limiting examples of these polyquatemium compounds may be chosen from the diallyldimethylammonium chloride / acrylic acid copolymers sold under the names MERQUAT 280 POLYMER or MERQUAT 280NP POLYMER or MERQUAT 281 POLYMER or MERQUAT 295 POLYMER, by the Nalco (Lubrizol) company (INCI name: Polyquatemium-22); the copolymer, methacrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride, acrylic acid or methyl acrylate, sold under the name MERQUAT 2001 POLYMER OR MERQUAT 2001 N POLYMER by the company Nalco (Lubrizol) (INCI name: Polyquaternium-47); acrylamide / dimethyldiallylammonium chloride / acrylic acid terpolymer sold under the name MERQUAT 3330DRY POLYMER or MERQUAT 3330PR POLYMER or MERQUAT 3331 PR POLYMER or MERQUAT 3940 POLYMER or MERQUAT PLUS 3330 POLYMER OR MERQUAT PLUS 3331 POLYMER by the company Nalco (Lubrizol) (INCI name: Polyquaternium-39); an ampholytic terpolymer consisting of methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride (MAPTAC), acrylamide and acrylic acid, sold under the name MERQUAT 2003PR POLYMER by the company Nalco (Lubrizol) (INCI name: Polyquaternium-53); Polyquaternium-30, Polyquaternium-35, Polyquaternium-45, Polyquaternium-50,Polyquaternium-54; Polyquaternium-57; Polyquaternium-63; Polyquaternium-74; Polyquaternium-76; Polyquaternium-86; Polyquaternium-89; Polyquaternium-95; Polyquaternium-98; Polyquaternium-104; Polyquaternium-111; Polyquaternium-112, and mixtures thereof. In some embodiments, the cationic polymer is a synthetic polymer selected from cationic acrylic polymers, for example, an amorphous functional acrylic polymer grafted onto a polyethylene backbone such as SYNTRAN™ 5330, which is a quaternary-modified olefin grafted technology. More generally, these synthetic polymers are chosen, but not limited to, cationic polymers including polyacrylates such as those identified in the Dictionary and International Manual of Cosmetic Ingredients (9th ed. 2002) such as, for example, polyacrylate-1, polyacrylate-2, polyacrylate-3, polyacrylate-4, polyacrylate-16, polyacrylate-17, polyacrylate-18, polyacrylate-19,polyacrylate-21, and mixtures thereof. Such (co)polymers, or similar (co)polymers, can be combined individually or with other (co)polymers to form suitable bimodal agents having both cationic and anionic functionalities.

[0174] It will be understood that in certain embodiments, the micellar cleansing composition may include certain ingredients or may be substantially or essentially free of, or may be devoid of, certain ingredients, including one of the specific optional additives. In certain embodiments, the micellar cleansing composition may include, may be substantially or essentially free of, or may be devoid of one or more ingredients selected from sulfates, sulfated surfactants, PEG-type components, PEG-type thickeners and surfactants, petrochemical compounds, silicone compounds, or combinations thereof.

[0175] In certain embodiments, the micellar cleansing composition may include, may be substantially or essentially free from, or may exclude one or more ingredients selected from PEG / PEO surfactants, sulfate / sulfonate-based surfactants, and anionic surfactants, including, but not limited to, PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-20 methylglucoside sesquistearate, PG-5 dioleate, PG-4 diisostearate, PG-10 isostearate, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-8 stearate, PEG-8 isostearate, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-150 laurate, and PEG-150 distearate. PEG-150, PEG-150 pentaerythrityl tetrastearate, PEG-78 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-30 glyceryl cocoate, ceteareth-20, ceteth-10, ceteth-20, isoceteth-20, laureth-4, laureth-23, oleth-10, oleth-20, steareth-10, steareth-20, steareth-100, and steareth-21,PEG-20 glyceryl laurate, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, poloxamer 184 (polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycol), and combinations thereof.

[0176] Although the optional additives are given by way of example, it will be understood that other optional components compatible with cosmetic applications known in the art may be used if they are suitable. It will be understood by a person skilled in the art that all optional additives are present only to the extent and in quantities that do not materially and negatively affect the fundamental and innovative feature(s) of the claimed disclosure. Thus, in certain embodiments that include optional additives, these optional additives will not materially and negatively affect the fundamental and innovative feature(s) of the claimed invention. EXAMPLES

[0177] The following examples are intended to further illustrate this disclosure. They are not intended to limit disclosure in any way. Unless otherwise indicated, all parts are by weight. Example #1: Raw materials

[0178] The percentages of each ingredient as given by way of example in the following examples are indicated as quantity of active, the raw materials being able to be present in an amount equal to the amount of active, or if the raw material has a concentration of active less than 100%, then the micellar cleansing composition includes the raw material which includes the active and a suitable solvent, the concentration of active in the raw material being provided here below.

[0179] The following raw materials for the ingredients as presented in the TABLES here include the active ingredients listed in Table 1.

[0180]

[0181]

[0182]

[0183]

[0184]

[0185]

[0186] [Table 2[ TABLE 1: Representative raw materials Raw material Caprylate / caprate PG-3 Caprate PG-4 Rhamnolipid Sophorolipid Spiculisporic acid Sodium surfactant Example 2#: Inventive compositions Examples of methods for implementing micellar cleansing compositions are presented in Table 2 below. [Table 3[ TABLE 2 A: Inventive compositions: Basic composition INGREDIENTS % by weight Water QS Disodium EDTA 0.05 - 0.2 Myrtrimonium bromide 0.01-0.1 Glycerin 0.5 - 1.5 Hexylene glycol 1-3 Surfactant Polyglycerol ester (PES) 0.5 Biosurfactant (BS) 0.5 [Table 4[ TABLE 2B: Inventive compositions: Basic composition plus substituted polyglycerol ester (PES) surfactants and biosurfactant (BS) INGREDIENT INV A INV B INV C INV D INV E INV F INV G INV H Polyglyceryl-3 Caprylate / Caprate (PES) 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Polyglyceryl e-4 Caprate (PES) 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Rhamnolipid (BS) 0.5 0.5 Sophorolipid (BS) 0.5 0.5 Spiculisporic acid (BS) 0.5 0.5 Sodium surfactin (BS) 0.5 0.5 Example 3#: Comparative composition

[0187] A list of ingredients of a comparable commercially available micellar cleansing composition is shown in Table 3 below. The comparative composition (COMP 1) includes a PEG surfactant, no rhamnolipids, and no polyglycerol ester surfactants.

[0188] [Table 5[

[0189] TABLE 3: Comparative composition (commercial reference) Ingredients of COMP 1 Water hexylene glycol glycerin disodium cocoamphodiacetate poloxamer 184 (PEG surfactant) preservative / chelator Example 4#: Solubility / pH of biosurfactants

[0190] Table 4 presents the minimum pH requirements for achieving solubility of the different biosurfactants.

[0191] [Table 6[

[0192] TABLE 4: Minimum pH for 1% biosurfactant in water Biosurfactant Minimum pH Rhamnolipid 5.5 Sophorolipid 5.0 Spiculisporic acid 5.5 Sodium surfactant 7.5 Example 5#: Makeup removal capacity

[0193] The compositions were evaluated for their ability to remove foundation from an artificial skin protein substrate based on a change in color.

[0194] Method for determining color change: The color difference associated with the removal of makeup, AE (delta-E; color difference in a rectangular coordinate system), was measured by Datacolor 600.

[0195] Clean reference: substrate completely clean, without makeup applied.

[0196] Black reference: substrate with makeup applied, but before makeup removal.

[0197] Sample after makeup removal: substrate with makeup applied, and after makeup removal carried out.

[0198] The equation below was used to calculate the elimination efficiency. _ , , ,. a / iron removsl re / erence KemowôuUy = —-—--------------------

[0199] Maybelline Fit Me Matte + Poreless foundation was applied to an artificial skin protein substrate for an in vitro makeup removal test.

[0200] After the foundation had dried, 1.5 grams of each evaluated composition formulation was applied to a damp cotton pad to then remove the makeup.

[0201] Removal efficacy with polyglyceryl surfactants with / without biosurfactants

[0202] The compositions listed in Table 5 include only water and a polyglycerol ester surfactant.

[0203] [Table 7[

[0204] TABLE 5: Removal efficacy with different polyglyceryl surfactants at 1% active ingredients in water (without biosurfactant or other ingredient) SURFACTANT Composition Elimination Capacity Appearance Polyglyceryl-3 Caprylate / Caprate ALT 1 73% Clear Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate ALT 2 72% Clear Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate / Polyglyceryl-4 Caprylate ALT 3 58% Clear Polyglyceryl-3 Caprylate ALT 4 62% Cloudy Polyglyceryl-3 Caprylate / Polyglyceryl-4 Caprylate ALT 5 73% Cloudy Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate / Ricinoleate ALT 6 68% Cloudy Polyglyceryl-5 Laurate ALT 7 65% Cloudy Polyglyceryl-2 Laurate ALT 8 70% Cloudy Polyglyceryl-6 Caprate ALT 9 66% Cloudy Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate ALT 10 73% Cloudy COMMERCIAL REFERENCE COMP 1 40% Clear

[0205] As shown in Table 5, COMP 1 and the polyglycerol ester surfactants (without biosurfactant), listed as ALT 1 - ALT 10, the commercial reference, were subjected to the makeup removal efficacy test. Each of the polyglycerol ester surfactants (without biosurfactant) demonstrated improved makeup removal and left less residual makeup on the testers' arms compared to COMP 1, demonstrating the overall superiority of the polyglycerol ester surfactants, even when used alone, compared to COMP 1.

[0206] Elimination efficacy with different biosurfactants and polyglyceryl-3 and -4 surfactants

[0207] The compositions listed in Table 6 are the inventive compositions as presented in Table 2 B, and the comparative composition COMP 1.

[0208] [Table 8[

[0209] TABLE 6: Elimination efficacy with various biosurfactants Biosurfactant Surfactant Composition Elimination Performance (% Elimination) Rhamnolipid Caprylate / Polyglyceryl e-3 Caprate INV A 79 Sophorolipid Caprylate / Polyglyceryl e-3 Caprate INVB 57 Spicilosporic Acid Caprylate / Polyglyceryl e-3 Caprate INVC 64 Sodium Surfactin Caprylate / Polyglyceryl e-3 Caprate INVD 80 Rhamnolipid Caprate / Polyglyceryl-4 INVE 83 Sophorolipid Caprate / Polyglyceryl-4 INV F 60 Spicilosporic Acid Caprate / Polyglyceryl-4 INV G 71 Sodium surfactin, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, INVH 67, reference micellar water, ND COMP 1 40

[0210] As shown in Table 6, all the compositions tested, compared to COMP 1, demonstrated improved makeup removal and left less residual makeup on the testers' arms. The results demonstrate that the combinations of rhamnolipid and polyglyceryl-4 caprate, rhamnolipid with polyglyceryl-3 caprylate / caprate, and rhamnolipid with polyglyceryl-3 caprylate / caprate provide the greatest extent of makeup removal, unexpectedly demonstrating an increase of over 60% and up to over 100% in performance compared to the commercial reference.Furthermore, the results with rhamnolipid and polyglyceryl-4 caprate combined, rhamnolipid with polyglyceryl-3 caprylate / caprate, and rhamnolipid with polyglyceryl-3 caprylate / caprate demonstrate an improvement of at least 10–15% compared to the performance of each of the polyglyceryl ester surfactants used alone (polyglyceryl-4 caprate (72%) and polyglyceryl-3 caprylate / caprate (73%)). These results are also unexpected, given that the polyglyceryl-3 caprylate / caprate and polyglyceryl-4 caprate surfactants in combination with biosurfactants outperformed the other polyglycerol ester / biosurfactant combinations.The results show that it is possible to offer a micellar cleanser that provides a high makeup removal capacity, superior to the commercial reference, uses less aggressive and more durable ingredients, and promotes the solubilization of ingredients in order to give a clear, cloud-free, pleasant appearance and a sensory aesthetic to the application, which is important for consumers.

[0211] Although the disclosure has been described with reference to described embodiments, it will be understood by those skilled in the art that various modifications can be made and equivalents can be substituted for elements thereof without departing from the scope of the disclosure. Furthermore, numerous modifications can be made to adapt a particular situation or material to the teachings of the disclosure without departing from its essential scope. Therefore, it is intended that the disclosure will not be limited to the particular embodiment disclosed as being the best envisaged embodiment for carrying out this disclosure, but that the disclosure will include all embodiments falling within the scope of the appended claims. DEFINITIONS

[0212] “Cleanser” or “micellar cleansing composition” as used herein means and refer to any micellar cleansing composition used for application on a keratinous tissue for one or more of the following: skin cleansing, makeup removal and similar.

[0213] “Keratinous substrate” and “keratinous tissue” each include, but are not limited to limit, skin, hair and nails.

[0214] The term “micellar” as used in reference to the inventive micellar cleansing composition means that the micellar cleansing composition consists of an aqueous phase with micellar aggregates in a surfactant suspension and a cationic polymer that are readily suspended in the aqueous phase by shaking and that rapidly separate / phase out when the micellar cleansing composition is at rest. It should be understood that the micellar cleansing composition does not include a significant oil content and therefore does not include an oily phase. The micellar cleansing composition is shaken or agitated to obtain a suspension of the surfactants before application. Pre-application shaking forms a sufficiently uniform and stable suspension to allow uniform application to keratinous tissue for makeup removal.Furthermore, the transparency of a micellar cleansing formula indicates that all ingredients have been adequately solubilized, particularly polyglycerol ester surfactants. The micellar cleansing formula is light, somewhat like a toner, with a pleasant feel upon application.

[0215] “Natural” or “of natural origin” as used herein mean and refer to, cosmetically acceptable materials and components that are one or more of those of direct natural origin, that are of natural origin with minimal processing, and that are derivatives of materials of natural origin. The cleansing composition according to this disclosure is in certain embodiments up to 99.11% natural, or "Highly Natural" or "All Natural," meaning that all carbon atoms of intentionally added ingredients come from natural sources in accordance with ISO 16128.

[0216] “Free from petrochemicals” means that petrochemicals Excluded substances have not been added as components. Some specific, but not limiting, examples of petrochemicals that are absent from the micellar cleansing composition include benzalconium chloride, isododecane, isohexadecane, and the like. In some embodiments, the micellar cleansing composition is not petrochemical-free but is formulated to have an amount of petrochemicals equal to or less than the amounts found in similar commercially available compositions.

[0217] “Silicone-free” means that the excluded silicones have not been added as that component. In some embodiments, a composition is devoid of of silicones. Some specific, but not limiting, examples of silicones that are absent from the micellar cleansing composition include, but are not limited to, silicone polymers, for example selected from dimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane and other silicone oils, and silicone elastomers.

[0218] The term “skin”, as used herein means and refers to cutaneous materials containing keratin such as the skin of the face and body, scalp, eyebrows and lips.

[0219] An inventive composition is "stable" or exhibits "stability," as these terms may be used here, if it shows no sign of significant change in one or more characteristics, including color, odor, pH, or transparency, or increased viscosity, or obvious precipitation of an ingredient, at room temperature and at temperatures in the range of approximately 25°C to approximately 45°C. In some embodiments, a micellar cleansing composition is stable at 25°C for at least one month, or at least two months, or longer.As described here, some test compositions demonstrate turbidity which may be associated with insufficient solubilization, particularly of polyglycerol ester surfactants, or with the precipitation of one or more ingredients demonstrating the instability of the micellar cleansing composition; although turbidity is not critical for efficacy, in some embodiments, compositions that are cloudy are considered less suitable due to consumer expectations regarding visual aesthetics.

[0220] The term "active substance," as used herein in relation to the percentage quantity of an ingredient or raw material, refers to 100% activity of the ingredient in the raw material, unless otherwise stated. All quantities stated herein are relative to the quantity of active substance, unless otherwise stated.

[0221] The articles "a" and "an," as used herein, mean one or more when applied to any feature in embodiments of this disclosure described in the patent memorandum and claims. The use of "a" and "an" does not limit the meaning to a single feature unless such a limitation is specifically stated. The articles "the," "a," or "them" preceding singular or plural nouns or noun phrases denote a specified particular feature or features and may have a singular or plural connotation depending on the context in which it is used. The adjectives "any" and "all" mean one, some, or all indiscriminately, regardless of quantity.

[0222] “At least one” or “one or more”, as used in this document, means one, two, three or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.

[0223] The transitional terms “comprising,” “consisting essentially of,” and “consisting of,” when used in the appended claims, in their original and amended forms, define the scope of the claims with respect to any additional unmentioned elements or steps of claims that are excluded from the scope of the claim(s). The term “comprising” is intended to be inclusive or broad and does not exclude any additional, unmentioned element, process, step, or material. The term “consisting of” excludes any element, step, or material other than those specified in the claim and, in the latter case, impurities ordinarily associated with the specified material(s).The expression "essentially consisting of" limits the scope of a claim to the specified elements, steps, or material(s) and to those that do not materially affect the fundamental and innovative feature(s) of the claimed disclosure. All the materials and processes described herein that embody this disclosure may, in other embodiments, be defined more specifically by any of the transitional terms "comprising," "essentially consisting of," and "consisting of."

[0224] Apart from the examples of operation, or unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and / or reaction conditions should be understood as being modified in all cases by the term "about", meaning to within 10% of the number indicated (for example, "about 10%" means 9% to 11% and "about 2%" means 1.8% to 2.2%).

[0225] All percentages and ratios are, unless otherwise stated, calculated by weight. All percentages are, unless otherwise stated, calculated relative to the total composition. In general, unless expressly stated otherwise herein, "weight" or "quantity" as used herein with respect to the percentage quantity of an ingredient refers to the quantity of raw material comprising the ingredient, the raw material being described herein as comprising less than and up to 100% of the ingredient's activity. Accordingly, the percentage by weight of an active ingredient in a composition is represented as the quantity of raw material containing the active ingredient that is used and may or may not reflect the final percentage of the active ingredient, the final percentage of the active ingredient being dependent on the percentage by weight of the active ingredient in the raw material.

[0226] All ranges and quantities indicated herein are intended to include subranges and quantities using any disclosed point as a boundary. Thus, a range of "1% to 10%, such as 2% to 8%, such as 3% to 5%" is intended to encompass ranges of "1% to 8%", "1% to 5%", "2% to 10%", and so on. All the Numbers, quantities, ranges, etc., may be modified by the term "approximately." Similarly, a given range of "approximately 1% to 10%" is understood to have its bounds of both 1% and 10% modified by the term "approximately." Furthermore, it is understood that when a quantity of a component is given, it is meant to refer to the quantity of the active ingredient, unless specifically stated otherwise. As used here, all proposed ranges are intended to include every specific range within the given ranges, and combinations of intermediate sub-ranges. Thus, a range of 1 to 5 specifically includes 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, as well as the sub-ranges 2 to 5, 3 to 5, 2 to 3, 2 to 4, 1 to 4, etc. As used here, a report range is meant to include each specific report within subranges and a combination of subranges between the given ranges.

[0227] Although the numerical ranges and parameters presenting the general scope of the disclosure are approximations, unless otherwise indicated, the numerical values ​​presented in the specific examples are reported as accurately as possible. However, every numerical value inherently contains some error necessarily resulting from the standard deviation observed in their respective test measurements. The following example serves to illustrate embodiments of this disclosure but is not, however, limiting in nature.

[0228] As used herein, the expressions "substantially free" or "essentially free" or "excluded" mean that the specific material may be present in small quantities that do not materially affect the fundamental and innovative characteristics of the embodiments of the micellar cleansing composition according to the disclosure, or that the material may be absent. For example, there may be less than 2% by weight of a specific material added to a composition, relative to the total weight of the micellar cleansing compositions (provided that an amount less than 2% by weight does not materially affect the fundamental and innovative characteristics of the embodiments of the micellar cleansing composition according to the disclosure).Similarly, micellar cleansing compositions may include less than 2%, less than 1.5%, less than 1%, less than 0.5%, less than 0.1%, less than 0.05%, or less than 0.01%, or no amount (0%), of the specified material. Furthermore, all components positively presented in this disclosure may be negatively excluded from the claims; for example, a claimed composition may be "free," "substantially free," or "substantially free" of one or more components that are positively presented in this disclosure. The expression "substantially free" or "substantially free" as used herein may also mean that the specific material is not added to the micellar cleansing composition, but... It may, however, be present in a raw material included in the micellar cleansing composition.

Claims

Demands

1. Monophasic micellar cleansing composition comprising: (a) at least one biosurfactant present in an amount of at least about 0.1%, by weight, relative to the weight of the micellar cleansing composition; (b) at least one polyglycerol ester surfactant present in an amount of at least about 0.1%, by weight, relative to the weight of the micellar cleansing composition; and (c) an aqueous carrier comprising at least water, in which the micellar cleansing composition has a pH in the range of about 5 to about 8.

2. Micellar cleansing composition according to claim 1, wherein the micellar cleansing composition is essentially free from one or more ingredients selected from the group consisting of cationic polymers, PEG / POE surfactants, perfume and oil, and combinations thereof.

3. Micellar cleansing composition according to claim 1, wherein at least one biosurfactant is selected from the group consisting of rhamnolipid, sophorolipid, spiculisporic acid, sodium surfactin, and their combinations.

4. Micellar cleansing composition according to claim 1, wherein at least one biosurfactant is selected from the group consisting of rhamnolipid, sophorolipid, spiculisporic acid, sodium surfactin, and combinations thereof, and wherein if the biosurfactant is a sophorolipid, the micellar cleansing composition has a pH of at least 5, and if the biosurfactant is a rhamnolipid or spiculisporic acid, the micellar cleansing composition has a pH of at least 5.5, and if the biosurfactant is sodium surfactin, the micellar cleansing composition has a pH of at least 7.

5.

5. Micellar cleansing composition according to claim 1, wherein at least one polyglycerol ester surfactant is selected from the group consisting of at least one polyglycerol-3 ester surfactant, at least one polyglycerol-4 ester surfactant, and combinations thereof.

6. Micellar cleansing composition according to claim 1, wherein at least one polyglycerol ester surfactant is selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-3 caprate, polyglyceryl-3 caprylate / caprate, polyglyceryl-3 laurate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate, polyglyceryl-4 caprylate / caprate, and combinations thereof.

7. Micellar cleansing composition according to claim 1, wherein the micellar cleansing composition expressly excludes any polyglycerol ester surfactant selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-6 / polyglyceryl-4 caprylate, polyglyceryl-3 caprylate, polyglyceryl-3 / polyglyceryl-4 caprylate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate / ricinoleate, polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-2 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, and combinations thereof.

8. Micellar cleansing composition according to claim 1, wherein the micellar cleansing composition expressly excludes surfactants and emulsifiers other than polyglycerol-3 ester surfactants and polyglycerol-4 ester surfactants, and oils other than oil-based actives such as tocopherol.

9. Micellar cleansing composition according to claim 1, comprising at least one water-based solvent selected from the group consisting of hexylene glycol, glycerin, pentylene glycol, propanediol, ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol, benzyl alcohol, phenylethyl alcohol, and combinations thereof.

10. Micellar cleansing composition comprising at least one biosurfactant present at approximately 0.5% and selected from the group consisting of rhamnolipid, sophorolipid, spiculisporic acid, sodium surfactin and combinations thereof, at least one polyglycerol ester surfactant present at approximately 0.5% and comprising at least one polyglycerol-3 ester surfactant and at least one polyglycerol-4 ester surfactant, water present at approximately 95%, at least one water-based solvent comprising hexylene glycol, glycerin or a combination thereof, each present from approximately 1% to approximately 2%, all amounts being by weight relative to the weight of the micellar cleansing composition, wherein if the biosurfactant is a sophorolipid, the micellar cleansing composition has a pH of at least 5, and wherein if the biosurfactant is a rhamnolipide or spiculisporic acid, the micellar cleansing composition has a pH of at least 5.5, and in which if the biosurfactant is sodium surfactin, the micellar cleansing composition has a pH of at least 7.5.