COMPOSITION CONTAINS GLUCOMANNAN

Abstract

COMPOSITION COMPRISING GLUCOMANNAN The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic cleansing composition, comprising: (a) at least one glucomannan; and (b) at least one oil; and (c) at least one emulsifier selected from gemini surfactants, glycolipids, and mixtures thereof, wherein the amount of (b) oil(s) in the composition is 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the present invention is stable and can provide good makeup-removing capabilities as well as a unique sensation during use. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: COMPOSITION COMPRISING GLUCOMANNAN technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a treatment composition for a keratinous material such as skin. CONTEXT OF THE INVENTION

[0002] Cleansing the skin is very important for facial care. It must be as effective as possible because oily residues, such as excess sebum, remnants of cosmetic products used daily and makeup products, especially waterproof products, tend to accumulate in skin folds such as wrinkles and clog skin pores, which can lead to the appearance of spots.

[0003] Thus, in the field of cosmetics, cleansing products are widely used to clean keratinous material such as skin, in particular to remove makeup from keratinous material.

[0004] Some cleaning products include small particles called "exfoliants". Exfoliants can help to physically remove dirt or makeup from a keratinous material such as skin.

[0005] Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, which are designed and developed with environmental considerations in mind, is becoming a major objective in an effort to address global challenges. It is therefore essential to offer more sustainable compositions, preparation processes, and ingredients to meet these environmental concerns.

[0006] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions, such as new cleansing cosmetic compositions, by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or materials with a good naturalness index and / or materials of natural origin.

[0007] It is always necessary to develop a new cleansing composition that can offer good makeup removal capabilities. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

[0008] An objective of the present invention is to propose a stable composition that can offer good makeup removal capabilities as well as a unique sensation during use.

[0009] The above objective can be achieved by a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cleansing cosmetic composition, comprising:

[0010] (a) at least one glucomannan;

[0011] (b) at least one oil; and

[0012] (c) at least one emulsifier selected from gemini surfactants, glycolipids and their mixtures,

[0013] in which

[0014] the quantity of the (b) oil(s) in the composition is 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0015] The (a) glucomannan can be selected from water-soluble glucomannan, water-insoluble glucomannan and mixtures thereof.

[0016] (a) Glucomannan can be derived from konjac.

[0017] The quantity of (a) glucomannan(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight and, more preferably, from 1.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0018] The (b) oil may be selected from ester oils, ether oils, hydrocarbon oils and mixtures thereof, preferably from esters of monoalcohols and monoacids, dialkyl ethers, linear or branched alkanes with a carbon chain length of Cl 1 to C20, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from the group consisting of C15-19 alkane, undecane, tridecane isopropyl myristate, dicaprylyl ether, and mixtures thereof, and even more preferably C15-19 alkane, undecane, tridecane and mixtures thereof.

[0019] The quantity of the (b) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 3% to 35% by weight and, more preferably, from 5% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0020] The gemini surfactant can be chosen from the compounds represented by the following formula (A): (ÇH^ CHgtCHg), -CO NH 'ÇH (CHAfe |=OI^IH CH — y' (CH2h NH h° CHgCCH^j-CONH ÇH (CHa)jg y*

[0021] in which

[0022] - Y1 independently designates a carboxylic acid group or an alkali salt of a carboxylic acid group such as a sodium salt of a carboxylic acid group,

[0023] - j1, kl, j2 and k2 denote integers such that (j1, kl, j2, k2) = one any of (2, 0, 2, 0), (2, 0, 0, 2), (0, 2, 2, 0) and (0, 2, 0, 2) and

[0024] -1 denotes an integer from 6 to 16, preferably from 8 to 14 and more preferably from 10 to 12.

[0025] The Gemini surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, sodium dimyristoylglutamide lysine and sodium distearoylglutamide lysine, and one of their mixtures.

[0026] The glycolipid can be chosen from glucolipids, sophorolipids, trehalolipids, cellobiose lipids, rhamnolipids and mixtures thereof, preferably rhamnolipids of sophorolipids and mixtures thereof, and more preferably rhamnolipids.

[0027] The quantity of the (c) emulsifier(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 3% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0028] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (d) water.

[0029] The quantity of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention can be from 50% to 95% by weight, preferably from 60% to 93% by weight, and more preferably from 70% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0030] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratinous material, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous material.

[0031] The cosmetic process according to the present invention may further include the step of massaging the keratinous material. Best embodiment of the invention

[0032] After careful research, the inventors discovered that it is possible to offer a stable composition that can provide good makeup removal capabilities as well as a unique sensation during use.

[0033] Therefore, the present invention relates mainly to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition and, more preferably, a cosmetic cleansing composition, comprising:

[0034] (a) at least one glucomannan;

[0035] (b) at least one oil; and

[0036] (c) at least one emulsifier selected from gemini surfactants, glycolipids and their mixtures,

[0037] in which

[0038] the quantity of the (b) oil(s) in the composition is 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0039] If the composition according to the present invention comprises (d) water, the composition can take the form of an emulsion, in particular an oil-in-water emulsion. Once the composition according to the present invention is emulsified, the emulsified state can persist for a long period at various temperatures. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention is stable.

[0040] The composition according to the present invention can offer good makeup removal capabilities. Thus, the composition according to the present invention is suitable for cleansing a keratinous material such as skin.

[0041] Furthermore, the composition according to the present invention can offer a unique sensation during use, as it can generate aggregates that may be in the form of vermicelli during the use of the composition. For example, by massaging a keratinous material such as the skin on which the composition according to the present invention is located with the fingers, the composition according to the present invention can generate aggregates derived from (a) glucomannan that may be in the form of vermicelli. A user of the composition according to the present invention can have an enjoyable experience during use.

[0042] The aggregates, which may be in the form of vermicelli generated by the composition according to the present invention, may be soft and, consequently, the composition According to the present invention, it can also offer a feeling of comfort during use.

[0043] Furthermore, the aggregates, which may be in the form of vermicelli, generated by the composition according to the present invention can function as "exfoliating" particles. Thus, they can contribute to exfoliating the superficial layer of a keratinous material such as the surface of the stratum corneum of the skin. Consequently, the aggregates, which may be in the form of vermicelli, can effectively remove dirt or makeup from a keratinous material such as the skin. Moreover, the aggregates, which may be in the form of vermicelli, can contribute to accelerating the renewal of the superficial layer of a keratinous material such as the surface of the stratum corneum of the skin. Therefore, the aggregates, which may be in the form of vermicelli, can also provide a feeling of freshness.

[0044] The aggregates, which can be in the form of vermicelli generated by the composition according to the present invention, can be formed by (a) glucomannan, which can be derived from natural resources. Thus, the composition according to the present invention is environmentally friendly.

[0045] The above effects and advantages offered by the composition according to the present invention can also be applied to the cosmetic process and use according to the present invention.

[0046] The present invention will be described in detail below. [Composition]

[0047] One aspect of the present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for cleansing, comprising:

[0048] (a) at least one glucomannan;

[0049] (b) at least one oil; and

[0050] (c) at least one emulsifier selected from gemini surfactants, glycolipids and their mixtures,

[0051] in which

[0052] the quantity of the (b) oil(s) in the composition is 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Glucomannan)

[0053] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one glucomannan. Only one type of glucomannan may be used, or two or more different types of glucomannans may be used in combination.

[0054] The (a) glucomannan may be selected from water-soluble glucomannan, water-insoluble glucomannan, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the (a) glucomannan is a mixture of water-soluble glucomannan and water-insoluble glucomannan.

[0055] The term "soluble in water" here means that (a) glucomannan can have a solubility in water at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) with water (pH=7) of 0.1 wt% or more, preferably 0.5 wt% or more, and more preferably 1 wt% or more.

[0056] The expression "insoluble in water" here means that (a) glucomannan can have a solubility in water at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) with water (pH=7) less than 0.1 wt%.

[0057] Glucomannan is a high molecular weight polysaccharide (typically 500,000 < Mw glucomannan < 2,000,000), composed of D-glucose and D-mannose motifs, in which the D-glucose and D-mannose are linked in a ratio of about 2:3 (1:1.6) via [3-1,4-glycosidic linkages.

[0058] Glucomannan is a substantially linear polysaccharide, but may have branching approximately every 50 or 60 units. A portion of the hydroxyl groups of the polysaccharide is acetylated.

[0059] Glucomannan can be found in wood, but it is also the main component of konjac gum. Thus, glucomannan can be derived from konjac (Amorphophallus konjac). Konjac (Amorphophallus konjac) is a plant in the Araceae family.

[0060] Glucomannan is originally water-soluble. Glucomannan originally obtained from konjac can be used as water-soluble glucomannan.

[0061] Water-soluble glucomannan can function as a thickener for the composition according to the present invention.

[0062] On the other hand, glucomannan can be treated to be insoluble in water. For example, documents JP-A-2000-344801 and JP-A-2006-169300 disclose a process for producing water-insoluble glucomannan.

[0063] For example, water-insoluble glucomannan can be prepared by the following steps:

[0064] (1) dissolving a glucomannan-rich flour in water to form a solution ;

[0065] (2) mixing the solution with ethanol to precipitate glucomannan;

[0066] (3) addition of an alkali to the resulting mixture to transform the particles of glucomannan precipitated into irreversible hydrogel particles insoluble in water;

[0067] (4) separation of glucomannan hydrogel particles from the liquid;

[0068] (5) drying of the separated hydrogel particles; and

[0069] (6) grinding and sieving of dried gel particles to a particle size desired.

[0070] The expression "glucomannan-rich flour" as used herein refers collectively to refined konjac flour, purified glucomannan flour and rapidly soluble konjac flour.

[0071] In step (1), the glucomannan-rich starting flour can be dissolved in water to form an aqueous solution. Since the glucomannan solution can be very viscous, its concentration can be less than 5% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight.

[0072] In step (2), the glucomannan solution can be mixed with ethanol, preferably by gradually adding the solution to the ethanol while stirring, after which the glucomannan precipitates as fibrous particles.

[0073] Since glucomannan is not soluble in ethanol or an aqueous ethanolic mixture containing more than 30% by weight of ethanol, the weight ratio of ethanol to glucomannan solution can be at least 3:7.

[0074] In step (3), the precipitated glucomannan particles can react with an alkali to produce a water-insoluble, thermally irreversible hydrogel. The reaction can be carried out by adding an alkaline solution to the water-ethanol mixture containing the precipitated glucomannan. Any alkali such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, and potassium carbonate can be used. Saturated limewater is preferable, as is common practice in the production of edible konjac. Unlike edible konjac, glucomannan gels retain a fibrous, particulate form. This facilitates the separation of the gel from the liquid.

[0075] In step (4), the gel particles can be separated from the liquid in a centrifuge, for example, and washed with aqueous ethanol at least once. If necessary, the washing solution may contain a non-toxic organic acid such as acetic acid or citric acid to neutralize excess alkali.

[0076] In step (5), the gel particles thus separated can be thoroughly dried to remove the majority of the water in a conventional apparatus, preferably in a hot air dryer at about 105 °C or more.

[0077] In step (6), the dried gel particles can be ground and sieved to obtain a final product of a desired size.

[0078] Water-insoluble glucomannan may be in the form of gel particles. The particle size of water-insoluble glucomannan may be from 10 to 500 microns, preferably from 50 to 500 microns, and more preferably from 100 to 500 microns. The particle size may be volume-based.

[0079] Water-insoluble glucomannan can be deacetylated, due to the action of the alkali used during the process of preparing water-insoluble glucomannan.

[0080] Deacetylated water-insoluble glucomannan can easily aggregate due to hydrogen bonds between the hydroxyl groups of glucomannan molecules to form a gel.

[0081] If an alkali-earth metal hydroxide, such as Ca(OH)2, or one of its salts, is used as an alkali, the water-insoluble glucomannan can be crosslinked by the divalent alkali-earth metal ion such as Ca 2+.

[0082] As (a) glucomannan, commercially available products such as the range of konjac flour sold by BLG (Shanghai Brilliant Gum Co., Ltd.) in China and Propol® ISLB sold by Shimizu Chemical in Japan may be used.

[0083] The quantity of (a) glucomannan(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more and, more preferably, 1.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0084] The quantity of the (a) glucomannan(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and even better 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0085] The quantity of (a) glucomannan(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight and, more preferably, from 1.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Oil)

[0086] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one oil. Only one type of oil may be used, or two or more different types of oils may be used in combination.

[0087] The (b) oil can form a fatty phase of the composition according to the present invention.

[0088] Here, "oil" means a fatty compound or oily substance that is in the form of a liquid or a paste (not a solid), preferably a liquid, at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination.

[0089] The (b) oil may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0090] The (b) oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil or the like; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.

[0091] The (b) oil may be chosen from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils.

[0092] Examples of vegetable oils include apricot oil, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0093] Examples of animal oils include, for example, squalene and squalane.

[0094] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils and artificial triglycerides.

[0095] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Ci-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids, and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Ci-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

[0096] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

[0097] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate may be mentioned.

[0098] Esters of dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids in C4-C22 and alcohols in CrC22 and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and non-sugar dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols in C4-C26 can also be used.

[0099] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

[0100] As ester oils, esters and sugar diesters of C6-C30 fatty acids, and preferably C2-C22, may be used. It should be noted that the term "sugar" refers to oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon compounds containing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0101] Examples of suitable sugars that may be cited include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose and their derivatives, including alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0102] Sugar esters of fatty acids may be selected in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of fatty acids in C6-C30, and preferably in C12-C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0103] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0104] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

[0105] Monoesters and diesters are used in particular, and in particular monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

[0106] An example that can be cited is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0107] By way of examples of preferred ester oils, the following may be cited, for example: diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyle propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, stearate isocetyl, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

[0108] Examples of ether oils include dialkyl ethers such as those represented by the following formula:

[0109] R'-O-R2

[0110] in which

[0111] each of R1 and R2 independently designates a linear, branched or cyclic C^J alkyl group, preferably a C6-11 alkyl group, and more preferably a C8-12 alkyl group. It may be preferable that R1 and R2 be identical.

[0112] Examples of linear alkyl groups include butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl, eicosyl, behenyl, docosyl, tricosyl and tetracosyl.

[0113] Examples of branched alkyl groups include a 1-methylpropyl group, a 2-methylpropyl group, a t-butyl group, a 1,1-dimethylpropyl group, a 3-methylhexyl group, a 5-methylhexyl group, a 1-ethylhexyl group, a 2-ethylhexyl group, a 1-butylpentyl group, a 5-methyloctyl group, a 1-ethylhexyl group, a 2-ethylhexyl group, a 1-butylpentyl group, a 5-methyloctyl group, a 2-butyloctyl group, an isotridecyl group, a 2-pentylnonyl group, a 2-hexyldecyl group, an isostearyl group, a 2-heptylundecyl group, a 2-octyldodecyl group, a 1,3-dimethylbutyl group, a l-(l-methylethyl)-2-methylpropyl, a 1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl group, a 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl group, an l-(2-methylpropyl)-3-methylbutyl group, a 3,7-dimethyloctyl group and a 2-(l,3,3-trimethylbutyl)-5,7,7-trimethyloctyl group.

[0114] Examples of cyclic alkyl groups include a cyclohexyl group, a 3-methylcyclohexyl group and a 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl group.

[0115] It may be preferable that the ether oil be chosen from the group consisting of dicaprylyl ether, dicaprylic ether, dilaurylic ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether, nonyl phenyl ether, dodecyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl isobutyl ether, and mixtures thereof.

[0116] It may be more preferable for the ether oil to be chosen from the group consisting of dicaprylyl ether, dicaprylyl ether, dilauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether, and mixtures thereof.

[0117] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).

[0118] Examples of silicone oils include linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenopolysiloxane and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.

[0119] Preferably, the silicone oil is selected from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

[0120] These silicone oils can also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones that can be used according to the present invention are silicone oils as defined above, and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.

[0121] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academy Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0122] When volatile, silicones are particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60 °C and 260 °C, and even more particularly from:

[0123] (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising 3 to 7 and preferably, of 4 to 5 silicon atoms. Examples include octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia; decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide and Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia; and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and their mixtures. Also noteworthy are cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109, sold by Union Carbide, with the formula:

[0124] Other examples include mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-l,r-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; and

[0125] (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5 x 10⁶ m² / s at 25 °C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane, sold notably under the name SH 200 by Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27–32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25 °C according to ASTM 445 Annex C.

[0126] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from among the polydialkylsiloxanes, among which the main examples are polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl terminal groups.

[0127] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be cited, without limitation:

[0128] - Silbione® oils from ranges 47 and 70 047 or Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000;

[0129] - the oils from the Mirasil® range sold by the company Rhodia;

[0130] - oils from the 200 series of Dow Corning, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm² / s; and

[0131] - Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils in the SF range (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

[0132] We can also mention polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol terminal groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils in the 48 range from the Rhodia company.

[0133] Among silicones containing aryl groups, we can mention polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyl silicone oil.

[0134] The phenyl silicone oil may be selected from phenyl silicones of the following formula:

[0135] in which

[0136] - Ri in Rio are, independently of each other, radicals based of saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched Ci-C30 hydrocarbons, preferably C1-C12 hydrocarbon-based radicals and, even better, CrC6 hydrocarbon-based radicals, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radicals, and

[0137] - m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers from 0 to 900 inclusive, preferably from 0 to 500 inclusive, and even better, from 0 to 100 inclusive.

[0138] provided that the sum n+m+q is not equal to 0.

[0139] Examples that may be cited include products sold under the following names:

[0140] - Silbione® oils from the 70 641 range of Rhodia;

[0141] - the oils from the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 ranges from Rhodia;

[0142] - Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow Corning;

[0143] - silicones from Bayer's PK range, such as product PK20;

[0144] - certain oils in the General Electric SF range, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

[0145] As a phenyl silicone oil, phenyl trimethicone (Ri to R10 are methyl; p, q and n = 0; m=l in the formula above) is preferable.

[0146] Organomodified liquid silicones may, in particular, contain polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Examples include KF-6017 silicone offered by Shin-Etsu, and Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from Union Carbide.

[0147] The term “hydrocarbon” here refers to a compound formed from carbon and hydrogen atoms, and does not include any heteroatoms such as oxygen and nitrogen atoms.

[0148] The hydrocarbon oil may be volatile or non-volatile, preferably volatile.

[0149] The hydrocarbon oil may be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, preferably of vegetable origin.

[0150] The hydrocarbon oil is preferably a nonpolar oil. The expression "nonpolar oil" used here refers to an oil whose solubility parameter at 25 °C, ôa, is equal to 0 (J / cm3)1 / 2. The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the three-dimensional Hansen solubility space are described in the article by C.M. Hansen: "The three-dimensional solubility parameters", J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).

[0151] The hydrocarbon oil may be chosen from aliphatic hydrocarbon oils, alicyclic hydrocarbon oils and aromatic hydrocarbon oils, preferably aliphatic hydrocarbon oils, and more preferably aliphatic and saturated hydrocarbon oils.

[0152] Hydrocarbon oil can be volatile or non-volatile. It is preferable for the hydrocarbon oil to be volatile. In other words, it is preferable for the hydrocarbon oil to be a volatile hydrocarbon oil.

[0153] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "volatile oil" refers to an oil that is capable of evaporating upon contact with keratinous materials in less than one hour, at ambient temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The volatile oil may be a liquid at ambient temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, having in particular a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (103 to 300 mmHg), preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1,300 Pa (0.1 to 10 mmHg).

[0154] According to a preferred embodiment, the volatile hydrocarbon oil has a flash point above 65°C, and, even better, above 80°C.

[0155] The hydrocarbon oil may be selected from C8-C22 branched hydrocarbons, preferably C9-C2i branched hydrocarbons, and more preferably CiO-C2o branched alkanes (also known as isoparaffins). It is even more preferable that the hydrocarbon oil be selected from the group consisting of isodecane, isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), hydrogenated farnesene (hemisqualane), isohexadecane, and mixtures thereof.

[0156] On the other hand, the hydrocarbon oil can also be chosen from linear C8-C22 hydrocarbons, preferably linear C9-C2i hydrocarbons, and more preferably linear C10-C20 alkanes. It is even more preferable that the hydrocarbon oil be chosen from the group consisting of n-decane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, n-pentadecane and n-hexadecane, n-heptadecane, n-octadecane, n-nonadecane and a mixture thereof.

[0157] As a hydrocarbon oil, one or more commercial products may be used. For example, as a hydrocarbon oil, C13-16 isoalkane, isohexadecane, C15-19 alkane and a mixture thereof may be cited.

[0158] In one embodiment, the hydrocarbon oil can be chosen from

[0159] - a mineral oil,

[0160] - a liquid paraffin or its derivatives,

[0161] - squalane or squalene,

[0162] - isoeicosane,

[0163] - naphthalene oil,

[0164] - polybutylenes such as Indopol H-100 (molar mass or MW = 965 g / mole), Indopol H-300 (MW = 1,340 g / mole) and Indopol H-1500 (MW = 2,160 g / mole) sold or manufactured by Amoco Company,

[0165] - the polyisobutenes,

[0166] - hydrogenated polyisobutylenes such as Parleam® sold by Nippon Company Oil Fats, Panalane H-300 E sold or manufactured by Amoco (MW = 1340 g / mole), Viseal 20000 sold or manufactured by Synteal (MW = 6,000 g / mole) and Rewopal PIB 1000 sold or manufactured by Wico (MW = 1000 g / mole) g / mole), or again Parleam Lite sold by NOF Corporation,

[0167] - decene / butene copolymers, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, and particularly Indopol L-14,

[0168] - polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes such as: Puresyn 10 (MW = 723 g / mol) and Puresyn 150 (MW = 9,200 g / mol) sold or manufactured by Mobil Chemicals, or Puresyn 6 sold by ExxonMobil Chemical) and

[0169] - their mixtures.

[0170] In one embodiment, the (b) oil can be chosen from non-siliconized oils.

[0171] It may be preferable to choose the (d) oil from among ester oils, ether oils, hydrocarbon oils and mixtures thereof.

[0172] It may be more preferable that (b) oil be chosen from esters of monoalcohols and monoacids, symmetrical ether oils, linear or branched alkanes with a carbon chain length of Cl 1 to C20, and mixtures thereof.

[0173] It may be even more preferable that (b) oil be chosen from the group consisting of C15-19 alkane, undecane, tridecane, isopropyl myristate, dicaprylyl ether and mixtures thereof.

[0174] It may be particularly preferable that (b) oil be chosen from the group consisting of the C15-19 alkane, undecane, tridecane and mixtures thereof.

[0175] The quantity of the (b) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention is 5% by weight or more, more preferably 10% by weight or more, and more preferably 15% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0176] The quantity of the (b) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 40% by weight or less, more preferably 35% by weight or less, and more preferably 30% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0177] The quantity of the (b) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 5% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 35% by weight and more preferably from 15% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Emulsifier)

[0178] The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one emulsifier selected from gemini surfactants, glycolipids, and mixtures thereof. Only one type of emulsifier may be used, or two or more different types of emulsifiers may be used in combination.

[0179] The (c) emulsifier is suitable for rendering the composition according to the present invention in the form of an emulsion.

[0180] It is preferable that the (c) emulsifier be biodegradable.

[0181] The quantity of the emulsifier(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.01% by weight or more and, more preferably, 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0182] Furthermore, the quantity of the (c) emulsifier(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0183] Thus, the quantity of the (c) emulsifier(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0184] The (c) emulsifier is selected from gemini surfactants, glycolipids and mixtures thereof.

[0185] Gemini surfactants and glycolipids are explained below. Gemini surfactants

[0186] The gemini or dimeric surfactants used for the present invention are well known. For a detailed description of the various chemical structures and their physicochemical properties, reference may be made to the following publications:

[0187] Milton J. Rosen, Gemini Surfactants, Properties of surfactant molecules with two hydrophilic groups and two hydrophobic groups, Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine, Vol. 113, December 1998, pp. 49-55; And

[0188] Milton J. Rosen, Recent Developments in gemini Surfactants, Allured's Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine, July 2001, Vol. 116, no. 7, pp. 67-70.

[0189] The gemini surfactant may be selected from compounds with two or more fatty amide groups (hereinafter referred to as the "amide compound"). The amide compound may be represented by the following formula (A): T (A) (Wp CHs(CHPi — CONH CH CH—Y' (4¾) 4 NH CHgCCHgVcOHH -CH (CH^ Y*

[0190] in which

[0191] - Y' independently designates a carboxylic acid group or an alkali salt of a carboxylic acid group such as a sodium salt of a carboxylic acid group,

[0192] - j1, k1, j2 and k2 denote an integer such that (j1, k1, j2, k2) = any one of (2,0,2,0), (2,0,0,2), (0,2,2,0) and (0,2,0,2), and

[0193] -1 denotes an integer from 6 to 16, preferably from 8 to 14, and more preferably from 10 to 12.

[0194] Preferably, in formula (A), L denotes an integer from 8 to 12, j1 = j2 = 0 and kl = k2 = 2.

[0195] Most preferably, in formula (A), Y' is -COONa, j 1 = j2 = 0, kl = k2 = 2; and L = 10.

[0196] The amide compound can be prepared, for example, by reacting a long-chain acidic n-acyl amino acid anhydride with a basic amino acid, such as lysine, in water and / or a mixed solvent of water and organic solvent(s), or in one or more inert organic solvents such as tetrahydrofuran, benzene, toluene, xylene, tetrachloromethane, chloroform, acetone, or the like. or without any solvent, at -5 °C to 200 °C, preferably 5 °C to 100 °C, and more preferably 0 °C to 60 °C.

[0197] Examples of amide compounds include dilauramidoglutamide sodium lysine, dimyristoylglutamide sodium lysine and distearoylglutamide sodium lysine.

[0198] Dilauramidolutamide sodium lysine is particularly preferred. Dilauramidolutamide sodium lysine is marketed under the names Pellicer L-10 and L-30 by Asahi Kasei Fine Chem. Co., Ltd. as an aqueous solution at a concentration of 29% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution; or under the name Pellicer LB-30G by Asahi Kasei Fine Chem. Co., Ltd. as a mixture of dilauraramidolutamide sodium lysine and butylene glycol.

[0199] In another embodiment, gemini surfactants may also conform to the following formula (I): P o hpr il , (0 < y * Y' HYX

[0200] in which:

[0201] - Ri and R3 represent, independently of each other, an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 25 carbon atoms;

[0202] - R2 represents a spacer group consisting of a linear alkylene chain or branched containing 1 to 12 carbon atoms;

[0203] - X and Y represent, independently of each other, a group -(C2H4O)a-(C3H6O) bZ, in which:

[0204] - Z represents a hydrogen atom or the radical -CH2-COOM, -SO3M, -P(O)(OM) 2, -C2H4-SO3M, -C3H6-SO3M or -CH2(CHOH)4CH2OH, in which M represents H or an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal or ammonium or alkanolammonium ion,

[0205] - a varies from 0 to 15, b varies from 0 to 10, and the sum of a+b varies from 1 to 25; and

[0206] - n varies from 1 to 10.

[0207] The gemini surfactant of formula (I) is preferably such that each of the RI groups CO- and R3-CO- comprise 8 to 20 carbon atoms, and preferably represent a coconut fatty acid residue (mainly lauric acid and myristic acid).

[0208] Moreover, this surfactant is preferably such that, for each of the radicals X and Y, the sum of a and ba has an average value that varies from 10 to 20 and is preferably equal to 15. A preferred group for Z is the —SO3M group, where M is preferably an alkali metal ion such as the sodium ion.

[0209] The spacer R2 advantageously consists of a linear alkylene chain CrC3 and preferably an ethylene chain (CH2CH2). Finally, n is advantageously equal to 1.

[0210] A surfactant of this type is in particular that identified by the INCI name: Sodium dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate, having the following structure: O It x(PEG-15)”SO3Na çocoyl '—( '—N eyelash CH2 eocoyl-CN ~~(peG-15)—SO,Na O

[0211] it being understood that PEG represents the group -CH2CH2O- and that "cocoyl" represents the fatty acid residue of coconut.

[0212] This surfactant has a molecular structure that is very similar to that of ceramide-3.

[0213] Preferably, the gemini surfactant of formula (I) can be used in mixture with other surfactants and in particular in mixture with (a) an ester of a C6-C22 fatty acid (preferably Ci4-C20 such as stearate) and glyceryl, (b) a diester of a C6-C22 fatty acid (preferably Ci4-C20 such as stearate) and citric acid and glycerol (in particular an ester of a C6-C22 fatty acid and glyceryl monocitrate), and (c) a C10-C30 fatty alcohol (preferably behenyl alcohol).

[0214] Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention comprises a mixture of sodium PEG-15 dicocoylethylenediamine sulfate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate monocitrate and behenyl alcohol.

[0215] For example, the Gemini surfactant of formula (I) can be used in mixture with other surfactants in the form of products sold by Sasol under the trade name Ceralution®, such as in particular the following products:

[0216] Ceralution ® H: Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate and Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate (INCI name),

[0217] Ceralution ® F: Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate and Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate (INCI name), and

[0218] Ceralution ® C: Aqua, Capric / Caprylic triglyceride, Glycerin, Ceteareth-25, Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Gum Arabia, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben (INCI names).

[0219] The gemini surfactant of formula (I) may represent from 3% to 50% by weight of the above mixtures. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention may comprise, as the gemini surfactant of formula (I), a raw material bearing the INCI name: Behenyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate citrate and sodium dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate, sold under the trade name Ceralution® H by Sasol.

[0220] The quantity of gemini surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.01% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0221] Furthermore, the quantity of gemini surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 3% by weight or less, preferably 2% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0222] Thus, the quantity of gemini surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.001% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Glycolipids

[0223] The term "glycolipid" means a compound formed from a lipid to which one or more carbohydrate compounds are attached.

[0224] The glycolipid may be selected from glucolipids, sophorolipids, trehalolipids, cellobiose lipids, rhamnolipids and mixtures thereof.

[0225] The glycolipid may preferably be chosen from among the sophorolipids rhamnolipids, and their mixtures, and, more preferably, from among the rhamnolipids.

[0226] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one glycolipid selected from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids and mixtures thereof, and more preferably comprises at least one rhamnolipid.

[0227] Glucolipids:

[0228] The glycolipid can be chosen from the glucolipids, which comprise a glucose fraction and can be represented by the general formula (I):

[0229] in which:

[0230] - R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a cation,

[0231] - p denotes an integer from 1 to 4, and

[0232] - q denotes an integer from 4 to 10, preferably equal to 6.

[0233] Glycolipids can be produced by the bacterium Alcaligenes sp. MM1.

[0234] Suitable fermentation processes are reviewed by Mr. Schmidt in his doctoral thesis (1990), Technical University of Braunschweig, and by Schulz et al. (1991) Z. Naturforsch., 46C, 197-203. The glucolipids are recovered from the fermentation broth by solvent extraction using diethyl ether or a dichloromethane:methanol or chloroform:methanol mixture.

[0235] Sophorolipids:

[0236] The glycolipid can be selected from sophorolipids, which comprise a sophorose fraction and can be represented by the general formula (II):

[0237] in which:

[0238] - R3 and R4 individually represent a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group,

[0239] - R5 represents a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group, hydroxylated or not hydroxylated, comprising from 1 to 9 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl group,

[0240] - R6 represents a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group, hydroxylated or not hydroxylated, containing from 1 to 19 carbon atoms,

[0241] provided that the total number of carbon atoms in groups R5 and R6 does not exceed 20 and is preferably from 14 to 18.

[0242] Sophorolipids can be incorporated into the composition according to the present invention either in the form of an open-chain free acid, where R7 represents a hydrogen atom and R8 represents a hydroxy group OH, or in its lactone form, where a lactone ring is formed between R7 and R8, as indicated by formula (III): (III)

[0243] in which:

[0244] - R3, R4, R5 and R6 are as defined above

[0245] provided that at least one of R3 and R4 represents an acetyl group.

[0246] Sophorolipids can be produced by yeast cells, for example, Torulopsis apicola and Torulopsis bombicola cells. The fermentation process generally uses sugars and alkanes as substrates.

[0247] Suitable fermentation processes are reviewed in AP Tulloch, JFT Spencer and PAJ Gorin, Can. J. Chem. (1962), 40, 1326, and U. Gobbert, S. Lang and F. Wagner, Biotechnology Letters (1984), 6 (4), 225. The resulting product is a mixture of various open-chain sophorolipids and sophorolipid lactones which can be used in mixtures, or the required form can be isolated.

[0248] It is possible to use as a sophorolipid, for example that sold under the name Sopholiance S by Givaudan and that sold under the name BioToLife by BASF.

[0249] Trehalolipids:

[0250] The glycolipid can be selected from the trehalolipids, which comprise a trehalose fraction and can be represented by the general formula (IV): ! OQ COOH

[0251] in which:

[0252] - R9, R10 and R11 individually represent a saturated hydrocarbon radical or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated, containing from 5 to 13 carbon atoms.

[0253] Trehalolipids can be produced by bacterial fermentation using the marine bacterium Arthrobacter sp. Ek 1 or the freshwater bacterium Rhodococcus erythropolis. Suitable fermentation processes are proposed by Ishigami and al. (1987), J. Jpn. OU Chem. Soc., 36, 847-851, Schultz et al. (1991), Z. Naturforsch., 46C, 197-203, and Passer! et al. (1991), Z. Naturforsch., 46C, 204-209.

[0254] Cellobiose lipids:

[0255] The glycolipid can be selected from cellobiose lipids, which comprise a cellobiose fraction and can be represented by the general formula (V): COOL I a1? œ3

[0256] in which:

[0257] - R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a cation,

[0258] - R12 represents a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, hydroxylated or not hydroxylated, comprising 9 to 15 carbon atoms, preferably 13 carbon atoms,

[0259] - R13 represents a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group; and

[0260] - R14 represents a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, hydroxylated or not hydroxylated, containing from 4 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0261] Cellobiose lipids can be produced by fungal cells of the genus Ustilago. Suitable fermentation processes are proposed by Frautz, Lang and Wagner (1986), Biotech. Letts., 8, 757-762.

[0262] Rhamnolipids:

[0263] Glycolipids can be selected from rhamnolipids.

[0264] The composition according to the present invention preferably comprises one or more rhamnolipids.

[0265] Rhamnolipids are glycolipids produced by various bacterial species. They consist of one rhamnose fragment (mono-rhamnolipid) or two rhamnose fragments (di-rhamnolipid) linked by a glycosidic bond to one, two or three [3-hydroxylated] fatty acid chains linked together by an ester bond.

[0266] Preferably, the rhamnolipids are chosen from among the mono-rhamnolipids and di- n

[0267] in which:

[0268] - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0,

[0269] - n denotes an integer equal to 1 or 0, and

[0270] - Riet R2 each represent independently hydrocarbon radicals identical or different comprising from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 13 carbon atoms, which are branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted, in particular hydroxy-substituted, saturated or unsaturated, preferably an alkyl radical that is simply, doubly or triply unsaturated.

[0271] Thus, when n is equal to 0, formula (VI) protects mono-rhamnolipids and, when n is equal to 1, it protects di-rhamnolipids.

[0272] The composition according to the present invention preferably comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid.

[0273] The composition according to the present invention preferably comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which:

[0274] - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0;

[0275] - n denotes an integer equal to 1; and

[0276] - Ri and R2 each independently represent hydrocarbon radicals identical or different, comprising from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 13 carbon atoms, branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted, in particular hydroxy-substituted, saturated or unsaturated, preferably simply an alkyl radical, doubly or triply unsaturated, as well as their salts, solvates and optical isomers.

[0277] The glycosidic linkage between the two rhamnose fragments can be in alpha or beta configuration and is preferentially in alpha configuration.

[0278] In the context of the present invention,

[0279] - the salts of di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) are more particularly their salts carboxylates with an organic or inorganic cation, and in particular with a cation chosen from sodium, potassium, calcium and ammonium.

[0280] - the solvated forms of di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) are more particularly those solvated by one or more molecules of water or organic solvents, for example a hydrate or solvate of a linear or branched alcohol, such as ethanol or isopropanol, the optically active carbon atoms of fatty acids being preferably in the form of R enantiomers, and

[0281] - the term "alkyl radical" designates a saturated, linear aliphatic group or branched; for example, an alkyl group in Ci-C2o having a linear or branched hydrocarbon chain of 1 to 20 carbon atoms, more particularly a methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl or eicosyl group.

[0282] The composition according to the present invention preferably comprises at least one dirhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which:

[0283] - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0;

[0284] - n denotes an integer equal to 1; and

[0285] - Ri and R2, which are identical or different, are chosen from among the radicals pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl, tridecenyl and radicals of formula -(CH2)OCH3, o denoting an integer from 1 to 23, in particular from 3 to 15 and more particularly from 4 to 12.

[0286] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of general formula (VI) in which m is equal to 1.

[0287] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the composition according to the present invention comprises a mixture of at least two, preferably at least three, di-rhamnolipids of general formula (VI) in which m is preferably equal to 1.

[0288] According to another embodiment of the present invention, the composition according to the present invention comprises a mixture comprising at least one mono-rhamnolipid.

[0289] More preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of the following formula (VII): n

[0290] in which:

[0291] - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0; preferably, m is equal to 1,

[0292] - n denotes an integer equal to 1,

[0293] - Ri is a radical (CH2)P-CH3, where p is an integer ranging from 1 to 23, Preference for 4 to 12,

[0294] - R2 is a radical -(CH2)q-CH3, q being an integer ranging from 1 to 23, of Preference for 4 to 12,

[0295] and also their salts, their solvates and their optical isomers.

[0296] By way of illustration and without limiting the di-rhamnolipides of formula (VII) which may be suitable for the present invention, particular mention may be made of the compounds of formula di-RL-CXCY, as defined in Table 1 below.

[0297] The formula di-RL-CXCY is a variant of writing to represent a di-rhamnolipid (di-RL) functionalized by two radicals Ri and R2 respectively represented by the symbols CX and CY, the integers X and Y being respectively equal to p+4 and q+4.

[0298] [Tables 1] Compounds DCRL-CXCY p 4 l «t-cses 4 4 4 6 i 6 4 4 «i-cioch) >5 6 5 OL-CWCU S 6 d®L-CI2CW g 6 7 J.RL-C1ZC12 SS 8 JsKL-ClJCU S w $ K' 12 1Q 8 10 WWM ih 12 12 12 10 13 «L-CÎSC16 UU

[0299] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1, also called di-RL-ClOCIO, or one of its salts, solvated and optical isomers.

[0300] Preferably, the di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1 is present in the composition according to the present invention in a proportion of at least 50% by weight and preferably from 51% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids.

[0301] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which m is equal to 1, p is equal to 6 and q is equal to 8.

[0302] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1, Ri represents a -(CH2)OCH3 radical, o being an integer ranging from 4 to 12, and R2 being selected from the pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl and tridecenyl radicals; preferably, Ri represents a -(CH2)6CH3 radical and R2 a nonenyl radical.

[0303] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises a mixture of at least two, in particular at least three, di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) or formula (VII) selected from:

[0304] - a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1;

[0305] - a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which m is equal to 1, p is equal to 6 and q is equal to 8; and

[0306] - at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1, Ri represents a radical -(CH2)OCH3, o being an integer ranging from 4 to 12, and R2 is chosen from the radicals pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl and tridecenyl; preferably, Ri represents a radical -(CH2)6CH3 and R2 a nonenyl radical.

[0307] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises a mixture of at least two, in particular at least three, di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) or formula (VII) selected from:

[0308] - at least 50% by weight and preferably from 51% to 85% by weight of a di- rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1, relative to the total weight of the rhamnolipids,

[0309] - from 0.5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, of a di- rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p is equal to 6, q is equal to 8 and m is equal to 1, with respect to the total weight of the rhamnolipids, and

[0310] - from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 3% to 12% by weight, preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, of a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1, Ri represents a radical -(CH2)6CH3 and R2 represents a nonenyl radical, relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids.

[0311] Rhamnolipids are usually prepared by processes known to those skilled in the art from bacterial producers, such as Pseudomonas.

[0312] Suitable fermentation processes are reviewed by D. Haferburg, R. Hommel, R. Claus and HP Kleber in Adv. Biochem. Ing. / Biotechnol. (1986), 33, 53-90, and by F. Wagner, H. Bock and A. Kretschmar in Fermentation (ed. RM Lafferty) (1981), 181-192, Springer Verlag, Vienna.

[0313] The product sold under the name Rheance One by Evonik (INCI name: glycolipids) can be used as a rhamnolipide.

[0314] The amount of glycolipid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.01% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0315] The amount of glycolipid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 3% by weight or less, preferably 2% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0316] The quantity of glycolipid(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.001% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 2% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Water)

[0317] The composition according to the present invention may include (d) water.

[0318] (d) Water can form an aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention.

[0319] The quantity of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more, and more preferably 70% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0320] Furthermore, the quantity of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 95% by weight or less, preferably 93% by weight or less, and more preferably 90% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0321] The quantity of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention can range from 50% to 95% by weight, preferably from 60% to 93% by weight, more preferably from 70% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Other ingredients)

[0322] The composition according to the present invention may also include at least one optional or additional ingredient.

[0323] The optional or additional ingredient(s) may be chosen from the group consisting of cationic, anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric surfactants, other than ingredient (c) above; lipophilic or hydrophilic thickeners other than ingredient (a) above; perfumes; preservatives, co-preservatives, stabilizers; and mixtures thereof.

[0324] The quantity of the optional ingredient or ingredients) or additional ingredient(s) is not limited, but may be from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.

[0325] In one embodiment, the composition according to the present invention may be substantially silicone-free. The expression "substantially silicone-free" means that the composition according to the present invention does not comprise silicone, or comprises at least one silicone in an amount of 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.1% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0326] In another embodiment, the composition according to the present invention may be substantially free of fatty alcohols. The term "substantially free of fatty alcohols" means that the composition according to the present invention does not comprise any fatty alcohol, or comprises at least one fatty alcohol in an amount of 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.1% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0327] Fatty alcohol is a monovalent alcohol. The term "fatty" in fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols that have 4 or more carbon atoms, preferably 6 or more carbon atoms, and more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, and octyldodecanol, are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. (Methods of implementation)

[0328] According to a more preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0329] of 1% to 10% by weight of (a) at least one glucomannan;

[0330] from 10% to 35% by weight of (b) at least one oil selected from ester oils, ether oils, hydrocarbon oils and mixtures thereof; and

[0331] from 0.01% to 3% by weight of (c) at least one emulsifier selected from (1) gemini surfactants represented by formula (A) above; (2) glycolipids selected from glucolipids, sophorolipids, trehalolipids, cellobiose lipids, rhamnolipids and mixtures thereof; and (3) mixtures thereof.

[0332] According to a further preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0333] of 1.5% to 5% by weight of (a) at least one glucomannan;

[0334] from 15% to 30% by weight of (b) at least one oil selected from the group consisting of esters of monoalcohols and monoacids, dialkyl ethers, linear or branched alkanes with a carbon chain length of Cl 1 to C20, and mixtures thereof; and

[0335] from 0.01% to 3% by weight of (c) at least one emulsifier selected from (1) gemini surfactants selected from the group consisting of sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, sodium dimyristoylglutamide lysine, sodium distearoylglutamide lysine and mixtures thereof; (2) glycolipids selected from sophorolipids, rhamnolipids and mixtures thereof; and (3) mixtures thereof.

[0336] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0337] of 1.5% to 5% by weight of (a) at least one glucomannan;

[0338] of 15% to 25% by weight of (b) at least one oil selected from the group consisting of C15-19 alkane, undecane, tridecane and mixtures thereof; and

[0339] from 0.01% to 3% by weight of (c) at least one emulsifier selected from (1) dilauramidoglutamide sodium lysine, (2) rhamnolipids and (3) mixtures thereof. [Preparation]

[0340] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and the optional ingredient(s), if applicable, as explained above.

[0341] The method and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention. [Shape]

[0342] If the composition according to the present invention comprises (d) water, the composition according to the present invention may be in the form of an emulsion, preferably an H / W emulsion or a W / O emulsion, more preferably an H / W emulsion, and even more preferably an H / W gel emulsion.

[0343] The composition according to the present invention, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, may comprise dispersed fatty phases, such as oily phases dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase. The dispersed fatty phases may be in the form of oil droplets in the aqueous phase. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention may be in the form of an oil-in-water gel emulsion.

[0344] The H / W architecture or structure, which consists of fatty phases dispersed in an aqueous phase, has an external aqueous phase, and consequently, the composition according to the present invention having the H / W architecture or structure can provide a pleasant sensation during use due to the immediate feeling of freshness that the aqueous phase can provide.

[0345] The oily phase in the composition according to the present invention may further comprise any hydrophobic ingredient in addition to (b) the oil.

[0346] For example, the oil phase of the composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one lipophilic or liposoluble cosmetic active ingredient. Only one type of such cosmetic active ingredient may be used, or two or more different types of such a cosmetic active ingredient may be used in combination.

[0347] The quantity of the fat phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, and more preferably 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0348] The quantity of the oil phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or less, preferably 45% by weight or less, and more preferably 40% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0349] The quantity of the fat phase in the composition according to the present invention can be from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 5% to 45% by weight and more preferably from 10% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0350] The aqueous phase, if any, in the composition according to the present invention may further comprise any hydrophilic ingredient in addition to (d) water.

[0351] For example, the aqueous phase, if any, of the composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one hydrophilic or water-soluble cosmetic active ingredient. Only one type of such cosmetic active ingredient may be used, or two or more different types of such a cosmetic active ingredient may be used in combination.

[0352] In addition, the aqueous phase may include at least one pH adjuster such as an acid and a base, and / or at least one organic solvent such as a diol and a polyol.

[0353] The quantity of the aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more, and more preferably 70% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0354] The quantity of the aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 99% by weight or less, preferably 95% by weight or less, and more preferably 93% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0355] The quantity of the aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention can be from 50% to 99% by weight, preferably from 60% to 95% by weight and more preferably from 70% to 93% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0356] The weight ratio of the fat phase / aqueous phase can be from 50 / 50 to 1 / 99, preferably from 50 / 50 to 5 / 95, and more preferably from 50 / 50 to 10 / 90. [Application]

[0357] The composition according to the present invention can be used as a cosmetic composition, preferably as a cosmetic composition for cleansing, and more preferably as a cosmetic composition for cleansing keratinous material.

[0358] Keratinous material can be skin, nails, mucous membranes such as lips, or keratin fibers such as eyebrows and eyelashes. Skin here includes facial skin, neck skin, and scalp. The composition according to the present invention can also be used for mucous membranes such as lips.

[0359] The composition according to the present invention can be classified as so-called "scrub" products which may be similar to exfoliating products, including "exfoliating" particles which are useful for physical exfoliation (removal of the surface of the stratum corneum of the skin).

[0360] The composition according to the present invention can offer cosmetic effects such as makeup removal.

[0361] The composition according to the present invention can be used as is (as a topical product), or can be used by being impregnated in a porous substrate such as a non-woven fabric and a wipe, preferably made from cellulose fibers such as cotton. [Process]

[0362] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratinous material, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous material.

[0363] The cosmetic process according to the present invention may further include the step of massaging the keratinous material.

[0364] By massaging the keratinous material, the composition according to the present invention can easily form vermicelli-like particles. The vermicelli-like particles can function as "exfoliating" particles.

[0365] The cosmetic process according to the present invention can be used to clean keratinous material, preferably to remove makeup from keratinous material, and more preferably to remove makeup from skin or eyelashes. [Use]

[0366] The present invention also relates to the use of:

[0367] (a) at least one glucomannan

[0368] in a composition comprising

[0369] (b) at least one oil, and

[0370] (c) at least one emulsifier selected from gemini surfactants, glycolipids and their mixtures,

[0371] in which

[0372] the quantity of the (b) oil(s) in the composition is 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0373] for cleaning keratinous material, such as skin, preferably for removing makeup from keratinous material, and more preferably for removing makeup from skin.

[0374] The present invention may also relate to a use of: a. at least one glucomannan

[0375] in a composition comprising a. at least one oil, and b. at least one emulsifier selected from gemini surfactants, glycolipids and mixtures thereof,

[0376] in which

[0377] the quantity of the (b) oil(s) in the composition is 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0378] in order to generate aggregates derived from (a) glucomannan.

[0379] The above aggregates, which may be in the form of vermicelli, may function as "exfoliating" particles.

[0380] The composition in use according to the present invention can be used to clean a keratinous material, preferably to remove makeup from the keratinous material, and more preferably to remove makeup from the skin. EXAMPLES

[0381] The present invention will be described in more detail by means of examples. However, these examples shall not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-3 [Preparation]

[0382] Each of the hair compositions according to Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-3 was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1. The numerical values ​​for the quantities of the ingredients are all based on the "% by weight" as active raw materials.

[0383] [Tables2] Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. comp. 1 Ex. comp. 2 Ex. com p. 3 Glucomannan (1) 2 2 - 2 2 Glucomannan (2) 0.5 0.5 - 0.5 0.5 C15-19 Alkane 7.5 7.5 7.5 - 7.5 Undecane (and) tridecane 12.5 12.5 12.5 - 12.5 Xanthan Gum - - 2 - - Dilauramidoglutamide sodium lysine 0.3 0.1 0.3 0.3 - Glycolipids - 0.3 - - - Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Stability Good Good Good Good ND Makeup removal capacity 60% 60% 35% 20% ND Generation of vermicelli Yes Yes No Yes ND

[0384] nd: Not Available

[0385] (1) Konjac flour sold by BLG

[0386] (2) Propol® ISLB sold by Shimizu Chemical [Reviews] (Stability)

[0387] The compositions according to Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-2 immediately after their preparation were in the form of an emulsion.

[0388] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-2 was poured into a glass bottle and maintained under temperature variation conditions at 4 °C, 25 °C and 45 °C for 2 months. Each sample was then studied in terms of the degree of change in appearance and was evaluated according to the following criteria:

[0389] Good: Almost the same appearance as in production.

[0390] Bad: Changes in appearance have been clearly observed.

[0391] The results are shown in Table 1.

[0392] The compositions according to Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-2 retained their emulsified states at any of the temperatures of 4 °C, 25 °C and 45 °C after 2 months and, consequently, they were stable.

[0393] On the other hand, the composition according to Comparative Example 3, which did not include any emulsifier, could not be emulsified, and therefore its stability as an emulsion could not be evaluated.

[0394] Thus, the composition according to Comparative Example 3 was not subjected to the following evaluations concerning makeup removal capacity and the generation of vermicelli. (Makeup removal capacity)

[0395] First, false eyelashes were provided. The original weight of the false eyelashes was measured.

[0396] Secondly, a waterproof mascara was applied to the false eyelashes. After the waterproof mascara had dried, the weight of the false eyelashes coated with the waterproof mascara was measured.

[0397] Next, the quantity (A) of the water-resistant mascara on the eyelashes was determined by subtracting the original weight of the false eyelashes from the weight of the false eyelashes coated with the water-resistant mascara.

[0398] Third, the false eyelashes were wiped 40 times with a wipe containing the same quantity of each of the compositions according to Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-2. After wiping, the false eyelashes were washed with water and dried. Then, the weight of the false eyelashes after wiping was measured.

[0399] The quantity (B) of water-resistant mascara remaining on the eyelashes was determined by subtracting the original weight of the false eyelashes from the weight of the false eyelashes after wiping.

[0400] The makeup removal capacity (%) was determined by (AB) / A.

[0401] The results are shown in Table 1.

[0402] The higher value (%) in "Makeup removal capacity" in Table 1 indicates a higher makeup removal capacity, meaning that a greater amount of waterproof mascara has been removed. (Generation of vermicelli)

[0403] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-2 was applied to one hand and massaged with the fingers. The generation of aggregates in the form of vermicelli was observed and evaluated according to the following criteria.

[0404] Yes: Vermicelli have been generated.

[0405] No: No vermicelli were generated.

[0406] The results are shown in Table 1. (Summary)

[0407] Table 1 shows that the compositions according to Examples 1-2 are stable, while the composition according to Comparative Example 3 is not stable.

[0408] Table 1 shows that the compositions according to Examples 1-2 can offer a higher makeup removal capacity than the compositions according to Comparative Examples 1 and 2 which respectively did not include any glucomannan, or any oil.

[0409] Table 1 shows that the compositions according to Examples 1-2 can produce vermicelli whereas the compositions according to Comparative Example 1, which included xanthan gum instead of glucomannan, could not produce vermicelli.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic cleansing composition, comprising: (a) at least one glucomannan; (b) at least one oil; (c) at least one emulsifier selected from gemini surfactants, glycolipids and mixtures thereof; and wherein the amount of (b) oil(s) in the composition is 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein (a) glucomannan is selected from water-soluble glucomannan, water-insoluble glucomannan and mixtures thereof.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein (a) glucomannan is derived from konjac.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein (b) oil is selected from ester oils, ether oils, hydrocarbon oils and mixtures thereof, preferably from monoalcohol and monoacid esters, dialkyl ethers, linear or branched alkanes with a carbon chain length of Cl 1 to C20, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from the group consisting of C15-19 alkane, undecane, tridecane isopropyl myristate, dicaprylyl ether, and mixtures thereof, and even more preferably C15-19 alkane, undecane, tridecane and mixtures thereof.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the gemini surfactant is selected from the compounds represented by the following formula (A): (ÇHs)h GH3(CHg)j -CO NH CH (CH^ pO NH ÇH —Y' (CHg)4 NH |=O (CH£)h2 CHgCCHPj-COHH CH (ÇH^ Y' in which - Y1 independently denotes a carboxylic acid group or an alkali salt of a carboxylic acid group such as a sodium salt of a carboxylic acid group, - j1, kl, j2 and k2 denote integers such that (j1, kl, j2, k2) = any one of (2, 0, 2, 0), (2, 0, 0, 2), (0, 2, 2, 0) and (0, 2, 0, 2) and -1 denotes an integer from 6 to 16, preferably from 8 to 14 and more preferably from 10 to 12.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the gemini surfactant is selected from the group consisting of sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, sodium dimyristoylglutamide lysine and sodium distearoylglutamide lysine and a mixture thereof.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the glycolipid is selected from glucolipids, sophorolipids, trehalolipids, cellobiose lipids, rhamnolipids and mixtures thereof, preferably sophorolipids, rhamnolipids and mixtures thereof, and more preferably rhamnolipids.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the composition comprises, in relation to the total weight of the composition: from 0.5% to 15% by weight of (a) at least one glucomannan; from 5% to 40% by weight of (b) at least one oil; 40 and from 0.001% to 5% by weight of (c) at least one emulsifier selected from gemini surfactants, glycolipids and mixtures thereof.

9. Cosmetic process for a keratinous material, such as skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 on the keratinous material.

10. Cosmetic process according to claim 9, further comprising the step of massaging the keratinous material.