COMPOSITION SUITABLE FOR SKIN CARE

Abstract

SKINCARE COMPOSITION The present invention relates to a composition comprising: (a) at least one polyglutamic acid or one of its salts; (b) at least one compound selected from Vitamin B6, its derivatives, and mixtures thereof; and (c) at least one chelating agent other than EDTA or its salts. The composition according to the present invention is stable under light such as UV rays. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: SKINCARE COMPOSITION technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for the skin, which is stable against certain factors such as light, in particular UV rays. BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

[0002] There is a wide variety of active ingredients for skin care used in the field of cosmetic and dermatological compositions. Hyaluronic acid, polyglutamic acid or one of its salts, Vitamin B6 or one of its derivatives are examples of active ingredients for skin care.

[0003] It is preferable that cosmetic and dermatological compositions, in particular those containing multiple active ingredients for skin care, be stable against certain factors such as light, in particular UV rays.

[0004] EDTA (ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid) salts are commonly used as chelating agents to capture metal ions in a composition that can promote the oxidation of the composition's ingredients. However, EDTA salts can be difficult for microorganisms to break down.

[0005] Furthermore, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or materials with a high naturalness index and / or materials of natural origin and / or materials that can be more easily decomposed by microorganisms in the environment. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

[0006] An objective of the present invention is to provide a composition that is stable with respect to certain factors such as light, in particular UV rays, even without using EDTA or salts thereof.

[0007] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for the skin, comprising: a. at least one polyglutamic acid or one of its salts; b. at least one compound selected from Vitamin B6, its derivatives, and their mixtures; and c. at least one chelating agent other than EDTA or its salts.

[0008] The quantity of polyglutamic acid(s) or its salt(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.001% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 1% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0009] The (b) compound can be selected from pyridoxine salts and esters, preferably pyridoxine salts, more preferably pyridoxine inorganic acid addition salts, and even more preferably pyridoxine hydrochloride.

[0010] The quantity of the (b) compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.001% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 0.5% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.01% to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0011] It is preferable that the (c) chelating agent be chosen from among the (poly)amino(poly)carboxylic acids.

[0012] It is more preferable that the (c) chelating agent be chosen from the group consisting of trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, trisodium NTA, pentasodium pentetate, and one of their mixtures.

[0013] The quantity of the (c) chelating agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0014] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (d) at least one neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer.

[0015] The quantity of the (d) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 4% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0016] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (e) at least one hydrophobic inorganic filler.

[0017] The quantity of the hydrophobic inorganic filler(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.01% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 1% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0018] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (f) at least one hyaluronic acid ingredient selected from the group consisting of hyaluronic acid, hyaluronic acid salts, hyaluronic acid derivatives, salts of hyaluronic acid derivatives and mixtures thereof.

[0019] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (g) at least one polysaccharide.

[0020] The composition according to the present invention may not comprise any oil or may comprise at least one oil in an amount of 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.5% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0021] The present invention also relates to a method for treating a keratinous substance, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous substance. Best embodiment of the invention

[0022] After extensive research, the inventors discovered that it is possible to propose a composition that is stable with respect to certain factors such as light, in particular UV rays.

[0023] Thus, one aspect of the present invention is a composition, comprising: a. at least one polyglutamic acid or one of its salts; b. at least one compound selected from Vitamin B6, its derivatives, and their mixtures; and c. at least one chelating agent other than EDTA or its salts.

[0024] The composition according to the present invention is stable with respect to certain factors such as light, in particular UV rays.

[0025] The composition according to the present invention is suitable for skin care.

[0026] The composition according to the present invention is stable with respect to light, in particular UV rays, so that no change, due to light, in the appearance of the composition can be observed.

[0027] The composition according to the present invention is stable both immediately after preparation and for a long time after preparation. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention is stable over time and can be stored for a long period even in sunlight, for example, in summer.

[0028] In addition, the composition according to the present invention can offer good skin penetration of Vitamin B6 or one of its derivatives.

[0029] Good skin penetration here means that Vitamin B6 or one of its derivatives can penetrate into the deeper layers of the skin, preferably the epidermis, and more preferably the dermis. Thus, the composition according to the present invention is preferable for a cosmetic skin product.

[0030] Polyglutamic acid (a) or one of its salts is capable of retaining water or moisture in the skin. Thus, when applied to the skin, the composition according to the present invention comprising polyglutamic acid (a) or one of its salts can retain water or moisture in the skin.

[0031] However, (a) polyglutamic acid or one of its salts may impair the light stability of the composition according to the present invention. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention includes (c) a chelating agent to improve the light stability of the composition according to the present invention.

[0032] The composition according to the present invention may also provide additional effects.

[0033] The composition according to the present invention can provide a pleasant sensation during use, in particular good spreadability during application and a smooth texture after application.

[0034] Good spreading ability here means ease of spreading with less sensation of friction, i.e. smooth spreading.

[0035] The smooth texture after application here means a feeling of softness to the touch, without a sticky texture or with reduced stickiness, after application. The expression "sticky texture" means a property that gives a tacky feeling to the skin.

[0036] Polyglutamic acid (a) or one of its salts is sticky, water-absorbing, and film-forming. Thus, the composition according to the present invention, including polyglutamic acid (a) or one of its salts, can have good fluidity, which can contribute to good spreadability with less friction during application. Furthermore, after application, polyglutamic acid (a) or one of its salts can contribute to a lasting feeling of hydration and a smooth texture.

[0037] If the composition according to the present invention includes the (d) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer, the (d) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer in the composition according to the present invention may contribute to improving the spreadability and / or the feeling of hydration and / or the smooth texture after application of the composition.

[0038] If the composition according to the present invention includes the (e) hydrophobic inorganic filler, the (e) hydrophobic inorganic filler in the composition according to the present invention may contribute to improving the spreadability and / or smooth texture after application of the composition. Also, the (e) hydrophobic inorganic filler may provide mattifying effects if it is capable of absorbing oil or sebum.

[0039] If the composition according to the present invention includes the hyaluronic acid ingredient (f), the elasticity limit of the composition according to the present invention can be reduced, which can improve the spreadability of the composition according to the present invention. Furthermore, the hyaluronic acid ingredient (f) can further enhance the hydrating effects.

[0040] The present invention will be explained in more detail below. [Composition]

[0041] The composition according to the present invention comprises: a. at least one polyglutamic acid or one of its salts; b. at least one compound selected from Vitamin B6, its derivatives, and their mixtures; and c. at least one chelating agent other than EDTA or its salts.

[0042] (Polyglutamic acid or one of its salts)

[0043] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one polyglutamic acid or one of its salts. Only one type of polyglutamic acid or one of its salts may be used, while two or more different types of polyglutamic acids or their salts may be used in combination.

[0044] (a) Polyglutamic acid or one of its salts may have a chemical structure represented by the following chemical formula (1):

[0045] ROOC-CH2CH2-CH(-COOR)-NH-[CO-CH2CH2-CH(-COOR)-NH-]n-CO-CH2CH2-CH(-COOR)-NH2 (1)

[0046] in which R independently designates a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom such as a sodium atom and a potassium atom, or an ammonium group such as the tetramethylammonium group and the tetraethylammonium group, and

[0047] n is an integer of 2 or more, preferably 4 or more, and more preferably 6 or more.

[0048] Polyglutamic acid or one of its salts represented by the chemical formula (1) above can be called y-polyglutamic acid or one of its salts, because the carboxylic group at the y position and the amino group at the a position form a peptide bond.

[0049] It may be preferable that the molecular weight of 1' (a) polyglutamic acid or one of its salts be 1000 or more, and that the degree of polymerization be 8 or more ("n" in the chemical formula (1) above is 6 or more).

[0050] It may be more preferable that the molecular weight of 1' (a) polyglutamic acid or one of its salts be 100,000 or more, and that the degree of polymerization be 770 or more ("n" in the chemical formula (1) above is 768 or more).

[0051] It may be even more preferable that the molecular weight of 1' (a) polyglutamic acid or one of its salts be 500,000 or more, and that the degree of polymerization be 3840 or more ("n" in the chemical formula (1) above is 3838 or more).

[0052] There is no upper limit for the molecular weight of 1' (a) polyglutamic acid or one of its salts.

[0053] However, the molecular weight of 1' (a) polyglutamic acid or one of its salts may be 5,000,000 or less, and the degree of polymerization may be 38,500 or less ("n" in the chemical formula (1) above is 38,498 or less), and of preferably the molecular weight of (a) polyglutamic acid or one of its salts may be 3,000,000 or less, and the degree of polymerization may be 23,080 or less ("n" in chemical formula (1) above is 23,078 or less).

[0054] Glutamic acid, which is a constituent amino acid of (a) polyglutamic acid or one of its salts, may be in D-form, L-form, or racemic form. However, considering market availability, biocompatibility, and biodegradability, the use of polyglutamic acid composed solely of L-form glutamic acids or polyglutamic acid composed of a mixture of L- and D-form glutamic acids may be preferable. However, polyglutamic acid composed of D-form glutamic acids, having the same effect and low degradability, may also be used.

[0055] The process for producing γ-polyglutamic acid or one of its salts is not particularly limited. For example, an organic synthesis process using a peptide synthesizer, an organic synthesis process by polymerization reaction of glutamate N-carboxylic anhydride, an organic synthesis by polymerization reaction of N-benzyloxycarbonyl glutamic anhydride. Furthermore, microorganisms belonging to the genus Bacillus capable of producing γ-polyglutamic acid (in particular Bacillus subtilis, Bacillus anthracis, Bacillus licheniformis, Bacillus megaterium) can also be used for fermentation processes intended to produce γ-polyglutamic acid or one of its salts.

[0056] As a medium used in the fermentation process, in addition to a natural medium composed of natural products such as the liquid medium of shochu distillation waste and the soy extract medium, any synthetic or semi-synthetic medium consisting of any of the following ingredients:

[0057] - carbon sources such as glucose, fructose, galactose, sucrose, maltose, mannose, lactose, glycerol and starch;

[0058] - inorganic nitrogen sources such as ammonium sulfate, phosphate ammonium and ammonium hydrochloride;

[0059] - sources of organic nitrogen such as glutamic acid or its salts, acid aspartic acid or its salts

[0060] - the main inorganic salts such as sodium chloride, sulfate of magnesium, monopotassium phosphate, phosphorus and disodium phosphate;

[0061] - inorganic salts in trace amounts containing atoms such as iron, copper, zinc, cobalt, nickel, boron, manganese, molybdenum, tin, selenium, silicon, arsenic, vanadium, chromium and fluorine;

[0062] - vitamins such as biotin, nicotinic acid amide, pantothenate calcium, thiamine, riboflavin and pyridoxine hydrochloride;

[0063] - organic acids such as citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid and glycolic acid, and

[0064] - extracts of natural products such as yeast extract, meat extract, potato extract, tomato extract and soy peptide,

[0065] at any concentration, can be used.

[0066] The culture conditions of the microorganism can be set within the range of 20 °C to 37 °C, and can be further controlled during the microorganism growth process and the polyglutamic acid production process. The pH can be set within the range of 5.0 to 8.0 and can be further controlled during the microorganism growth process and the polyglutamic acid production process.

[0067] As a method for extracting and purifying 1' (a) polyglutamic acid or one of its salts from the culture solution after finalizing the culture, known methods such as an acid precipitation method, a solvent precipitation method and a membrane purification method may be arbitrarily chosen.

[0068] It is preferable, as (a) polyglutamic acid or one of its salts, to use polyglutamic acid or one of its salts of alkali metal such as sodium polyglutamate.

[0069] As (a) polyglutamic acid or one of its salts, a commercially available product may be used. Examples of (a) polyglutamic acid or one of its salts include Hyafactor™-PGA-HM sold by Bloomage Biotechnology Co., Ltd. in China, and Bio-PGA Solution HE, HB, LB and LE, and Bio PGA Na powder, sold by Ichimaru Pharcos in Japan.

[0070] The amount of (a) polyglutamic acid(s) or salt(s) thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.005% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0071] On the other hand, the quantity of (a) polyglutamic acid(s) or salt(s) thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 3% by weight or less, preferably 1% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0072] Thus, the quantity of polyglutamic acid(s) or salt(s) thereof in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.001% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 1% by weight and more preferably from 0.01% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Vitamin B6 and / or one of its derivatives)

[0073] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one compound selected from Vitamin B6, its derivatives, and mixtures thereof. Only one type of (b) compound may be used, or two or more different types of (b) compounds may be used in combination.

[0074] Preferably, Vitamin B6 is selected from pyridoxine, pyridoxal, pyridoxamine, and mixtures thereof. Pyridoxine is preferable as the Vitamin B6.

[0075] In a preferred embodiment, the Vitamin B6 derivatives are selected from Vitamin B6 salts, preferably Vitamin B6 acid addition salts, and more preferably Vitamin B6 inorganic acid addition salts. Examples of Vitamin B6 salts include pyridoxine HCl, pyridoxal HCl, and pyridoxamine 2HCl. Pyridoxine HCl is particularly preferred.

[0076] In another preferred embodiment, the Vitamin B6 derivatives may be selected from Vitamin B6 esters, preferably fatty acid esters and Vitamin B6 phosphate esters, and more preferably mono-, di-, or tri-esters of C6-Ci8 fatty acids and Vitamin B6 phosphate esters. Examples of Vitamin B6 fatty acid esters include pyridoxine dilaurate, pyridoxine distearate, pyridoxine dipalmitate, pyridoxine trilaurate, pyridoxine tristearate, and pyridoxine tripalmitate. Examples of Vitamin B6 phosphate esters include pyridoxine phosphate and pyridoxal phosphate.

[0077] Preferably, (b) compound is chosen from pyridoxine salts and esters, preferably pyridoxine salts, more preferably pyridoxine inorganic acid addition salts, and even more preferably pyridoxine hydrochloride (pyridoxine HCl).

[0078] The quantity of the (b) compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.005% by weight or more and, more preferably, 0.01% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0079] Furthermore, the quantity of (b) compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.5% by weight or less and, more preferably, 0.1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0080] The quantity of (b) compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.001% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 0.5% by weight and, more preferably from 0.01% to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Chelating agent)

[0081] The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one chelating agent other than EDTA or its salts. Only one type of such chelating agent may be used, but two or more different types of such chelating agents may be used in combination.

[0082] As (c) chelating agent, one can cite

[0083] (i) (poly)amino(poly)carboxylic acids such as compounds having The following INCI names: diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA), ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDTA), and trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, such as Octaquest E30 from Octel; trisodium nitrilotriacetate (trisodium NTA); pentasodium pentetate; ethylenediamine-N,N'-diglutaric acid (EDDG); glycinamide-N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS); 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid (HPDDS); ethylenediamine-N,N'-bis(ortho-hydroxyphenylacetic) acid (EDDHA); N,N'-bis(2-hydroxybenzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N'-diacetic acid (HBED); nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA); methylglycine diacetic acid (MGDA); N-2-hydroxyethyl-N,N-diacetic acid; and glyceryl imino diacetic acid. (as described in documents EP-A-317 542 and EP-A-399 133), iminodiacetic acid-N-2-hydroxypropylsulfonic acid and aspartic acid, N-carboxymethyl N-2-hydroxypropyl-3-sulfonic acid (as described in EP-A-516 102), beta-alanine-N,N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N,N'-diacetic acid and aspartic acid-N-monoacetic acid (described in EP-A-509 382), iminodisuccinic acid-based chelating agents (IDSA) (as described in EP-A-509 382), ethanoldiglynic acid, phosphonobutane tricarboxylic acid, such as the compound sold by Bayer under the reference Bayhibit AM, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) such as Dissolvine GL38 or 45S from Akzo Nobel, ,

[0084] (ii) chelating agents based on mono- or polyphosphonic acid, such as compounds having the following INCI names: diethylenetriaminepenta(met-hylenephosphonic acid) (DTPMP), ethane-1-hydroxy-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E1HTP), ethane-2-hydroxy-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E2HTP), ethane-1-hydroxy-1,1-diphosphonic acid (EHDP), ethane-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (ETP), ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonic acid (EDTMP) and hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid (HEDP), and

[0085] (iv) chelating agents based on polyphosphoric acid, such as compounds having the following INCI names: sodium tripolyphosphate (STP), tetrasodium diphosphate, hexametaphosphoric acid, sodium metaphosphate, phytic acid, their salts and derivatives,

[0086] and

[0087] their mixtures.

[0088] It is preferable that the (c) chelating agent be chosen from among the (poly)amino(poly)carboxylic acids, that is to say aminocarboxylic acids with one or more amino fractions and / or one or more carboxy fractions.

[0089] It is more preferable that the (c) chelating agent be chosen from the group consisting of trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, trisodium NTA, pentasodium pentetate, and one of their mixtures.

[0090] It is even more preferable that the (c) chelating agent be trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate.

[0091] The quantity of the (c) chelating agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0092] Furthermore, the quantity of the (c) chelating agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0093] The quantity of the (c) chelating agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer)

[0094] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (d) at least one neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer. Only one type of neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer may be used, while two or more different types of neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymers may be used in combination.

[0095] The (d) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer may exhibit water absorption properties. Therefore, the (d) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer may be a water-absorbing polymer.

[0096] In a specific embodiment of the present invention, the (d) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer may have a water absorption capacity of 10 g or more, preferably 20 g or more, and more preferably 50 g or more, and / or 2,000 g or less, preferably 1,500 g or less, and more preferably 1,000 g or less, relative to 1 g of the polymer at 25 °C and 1 atm.

[0097] The (d) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer can be supplied in the form of particles, and preferably in the form of spherical particles. The average primary particle size as D50 of the neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer is not particularly limited, but is generally 0.1 µm or more, preferably 0.5 µm or more, and more preferably 1 µm or more, and / or is 200 µm or less, preferably 100 µm or less, more preferably 50 µm or less. The term "D50" here denotes the particle size at which 50% by volume of the particles on the basis of the total particle volume are less than or equal to D50 and 50% by volume of the particles on the basis of the total particle volume are greater than D50. The D50 value can be determined by laser diffraction, for example, using a laser diffraction particle size distribution analyzer, such as the Mastersizer 2000 from Malvern Corp.

[0098] The (d) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer can be soluble in water. Therefore, the (d) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer can be included in the aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention, if the composition according to the present invention includes (h) water.

[0099] The (d) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer may be totally or partially neutralized. Preferably, the (d) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer is partially neutralized. The (d) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer may be totally or partially in the form of a salt, preferably a metal salt, more preferably an alkali metal salt, and even more preferably a sodium salt. The molar ratio of neutralized to non-neutralized parts is not particularly limited, but is generally 10 mol% or more, 20 mol% or more, 30 mol% or more, or 40 mol% or more, and / or 90 mol% or less, 80 mol% or less, 70 mol% or less, or 60 mol% or less.

[0100] The (d) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer may be a homo- or copolymer. Preferably, the (d) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer is a homopolymer.

[0101] The (d) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer may have a repeating motif represented by the following formula (I):

[0102] -[CH(R')-C(R2)(COO-M+)]- (I)

[0103] in which

[0104] - R1 and R2, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group alkyl group in the C1-C6 group such as methyl, preferably R1 and R2 represent a hydrogen atom; and

[0105] - M+ represents H+ or a cationic counterion, preferably a cation of alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal cation or an ammonium ion, more preferably M+ represents an alkali metal cation such as the sodium cation.

[0106] The number of repetitions of the pattern repeated above according to formula (I) is 2 or more.

[0107] The (d) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer with a repeating motif according to formula (I) can be derived from the polymerization of several monomers, identical (in which case it is a homopolymer) or different (in which case it is a copolymer) chosen from those of formula (la):

[0108] HC(R*) = C(R2) - COO M+ (la)

[0109] in which R1, R2 and M+ are as defined above,

[0110] in the presence of at least one polymerization initiator (for example, a UV initiator) to lead to polymers of formula (I) as defined above.

[0111] The (d) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer can be crosslinked.

[0112] Crosslinking of the (d) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer can be carried out, for example, by applying at least one crosslinking agent to the (d) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer by spraying.

[0113] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the (d) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer is a crosslinked homopolymer. One example is sodium polyacrylate sold under the name AQUPEC MG N40R, which is crosslinked and partially neutralized and is also known as sodium carbomer.

[0114] The amount of the (d) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention is 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0115] On the other hand, the quantity of the (d) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 4% by weight or less, and more preferably 3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0116] Thus, the quantity of the (d) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 4% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Hydrophobic inorganic filler)

[0117] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (e) at least one hydrophobic inorganic filler. Only one type of hydrophobic inorganic filler may be used, but two or more different types of hydrophobic inorganic fillers can be used in combination.

[0118] The expression "inorganic charge" should here be understood as meaning a colorless or white, inorganic particle that is insoluble in any liquid component in the composition according to the present invention, regardless of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured.

[0119] The inorganic filler may include metal oxides, preferably silica, titanium oxide, zinc oxide and a mixture thereof.

[0120] The inorganic filler suitable for the present invention may be, for example, a filler whose average particle size is less than 100 µm, and in particular between 1 and 50 µm, for example from 4 to 20 µm.

[0121] The term "hydrophobic" means that the inorganic filler can be dispersed individually in an oil so as not to form aggregates.

[0122] The (e) hydrophobic inorganic charge can be porous or non-porous.

[0123] The (e) hydrophobic inorganic charge may or may not be capable of absorbing (and / or to adsorb) an oil or liquid fatty substance, for example sebum (from the skin). It is preferable that the hydrophobic inorganic charge be capable of absorbing (and / or adsorbing) an oil or liquid fatty substance, for example sebum (from the skin).

[0124] The (e) hydrophobic inorganic filler may have an oil absorption capacity of 100 mL / 100 g or more, preferably 150 mL / 100 g or more, and more preferably 200 mL / 100 g or more.

[0125] The amount of oil absorbed (and / or adsorbed) by the (e) hydrophobic inorganic charge can be determined as follows.

[0126] The quantity of oil absorbed (and / or adsorbed) can be measured according to the method for determining the oil uptake of a powder described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the quantity of oil absorbed / adsorbed on the available surface of the powder, by measuring the wetting point Wp, which corresponds to the quantity of oil to be added to 100 g of a powder to obtain a homogeneous paste.

[0127] A quantity m = 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate, and an oil (such as an ester oil or silicone oil) is then added drop by drop. After adding 4 to 5 drops of oil to the powder, the mixture is stirred with a spatula, and the addition of oil is continued until a conglomerate of oil and powder forms. At this stage, the oil is added one drop at a time, and the mixture is then triturated with the spatula. The addition of oil is stopped when a firm, smooth paste is obtained. This paste should be able to be spread on the glass plate without cracking or forming lumps. The volume Vs (expressed in ml) of oil used is then recorded. The oil absorption corresponds to the ratio Vs / m.

[0128] Alternatively, the oil absorption capacity can be measured in accordance with JIS-K6217-4.

[0129] The (e) inorganic hydrophobic charge may have at least one inorganic core and at least one hydrophobic coating.

[0130] The inorganic core may comprise at least one material selected from the group consisting of silica, silicate, pearlite, boron nitride, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydroxide, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, kaolin, talc, and one of their mixtures.

[0131] The hydrophobic coating can be formed by a hydrophobic treatment agent which can be chosen in particular from fatty acids, such as stearic acid; metallic soaps, such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; amino acids; N-acylaminated acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titaniumate, mineral waxes and mixtures thereof.

[0132] N-acylaminated acids may comprise an acyl group containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for example, a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, or cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, or potassium salts. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, or alanine.

[0133] The term “alkyl” cited in the aforementioned compounds refers in particular to an alkyl group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably containing from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0134] Preferably, the (e) hydrophobic inorganic filler is selected from hydrophobically modified metal oxides, and more preferably from hydrophobically modified silica, titanium oxide, zinc oxide, and mixtures thereof. The hydrophobically modified metal oxides may have at least one hydrophobic coating on a metal oxide particle.

[0135] Preferably, the (e) hydrophobic inorganic charge can be chosen from hydrophobic silicas, in particular silica silylates.

[0136] The term "hydrophobic silica" means any silica particle whose surface is treated to be hydrophobic. A hydrophobic silica or a hydrophobic silica particle may have at least one hydrophobic coating on a silica particle.

[0137] It is preferable that the (e) hydrophobic inorganic filler be chosen from hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, and more preferably from hydrophobic silica silylate aerogels.

[0138] Hydrophobic silica, in particular silica silylate, can be based on silica aerogels which are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.

[0139] They are generally synthesized via a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction from a supercritical fluid, most commonly supercritical CO2. This type of drying prevents shrinkage of the pores and the material. The sol-gel process and the various drying operations are described in detail in Brinker, CJ, and Scherer, GW, Sol-Gel Science, New York, Academie Press, 1990.

[0140] Aerogels are highly porous materials. In this document, silica aerogels refer to a solid silica with a porous structure, generally obtained by replacing the medium contained in wet silica gels with air during drying, while preserving a solid silica network structure. Porosity represents the amount of air contained in an apparent volume of a material as a percentage by volume. The hydrophobic silica aerogel of the present invention may have a porosity of 60% or more, preferably 70% or more, and more preferably 80% or more.

[0141] Hydrophobic silica aerogel particles may exhibit

[0142] a specific surface area per unit weight (SP) ranging from 500 to 1,500 m² / g, preferably from 600 to 1,200 m² / g and more preferably from 600 to 800 m² / g, and / or

[0143] a size, expressed in average diameter in volume (D[0,5]), ranging from 1 to 1,500 qm, preferably from 1 to 1,000 qm, more preferably from 1 to 100 qm, in particular from 1 to 30 qm, even more preferably from 5 to 25 qm, even more preferably from 5 to 20 qm and even more preferably from 5 to 15 qm.

[0144] The specific surface area per unit weight can be determined by the nitrogen absorption process known as BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) described in "The Journal of the American Chemical Society", Vol. 60, Page 309, February 1938, which corresponds to the international standard ISO 5794 / 1 (Annex D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of ​​the particles considered.

[0145] The particle sizes of hydrophobic silica aerogel can be measured by static light scattering using a commercially available particle size analyzer such as the Malvem MasterSizer 2000. The data are processed based on Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is accurate for isotropic particles, allows the determination, in the case of non-spherical particles, of an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is described in particular in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0146] Hydrophobic silica aerogel particles may advantageously have a packed density (r) ranging from 0.04 g / cm3 to 0.10 g / cm3, and preferably from 0.05 g / cm3 to 0.08 g / cm3.

[0147] In the context of the present invention, this density, known as the packed density, can be evaluated according to the following protocol:

[0148] 40 g of powder are poured into a graduated test tube;

[0149] the graduated test tube is then placed on the Stav 2003 device of Stampf Volumeter;

[0150] the graduated test specimen is then subjected to a series of 2500 compaction operations (this operation is repeated until the volume difference between 2 consecutive tests is less than 2%); and

[0151] The final volume Vf of packed powder is then measured directly on the graduated cylinder. The packed density is determined by the ratio w / Vf, in this case 40 / Vf (Vf being expressed in cm3 and w in g).

[0152] With regard to the preparation of surface-modified hydrophobic silica aerogel particles by silylation, reference may be made to US patent 7,470,725.

[0153] In particular, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles modified on the surface with trimethylsilyl groups will be used.

[0154] The (e) hydrophobic inorganic fillers that may be cited include polydimethylsiloxane coated amorphous silica microspheres, in particular those sold under the name Sunsphere® H33 and Sunsphere® H53 (oil absorption equal to 400 mL / 100 g), precipitated silica powders surface treated with a mineral wax, such as precipitated silica treated with polyethylene wax, and in particular those sold under the name Acematt OR 412 by Evonik-Degussa (oil absorption equal to 398 mL / 100 g), and silica silylate sold under the name VM-2270 (oil absorption equal to 1040 mL / 100 g) by Dow.

[0155] It is preferable to use, as (e) hydrophobic inorganic filler, silica silylate sold under the name VM-2270 by Dow Corning, the particles of which have an average size ranging from 5 to 15 pm and a specific surface area per unit weight ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.

[0156] The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles of the present invention can be characterized in that each particle is spherical. Thanks to this spherical shape, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles can provide cosmetic compositions with a good, smooth texture. The degree of sphericity of the hydrophobic silica aerogel can be determined by its average circularity.

[0157] The spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel particle may have an average circularity of 0.8 or more and, preferably, of 0.82 or more. The spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel may have an average circularity of less than 1, preferably 0.99 or less, even better 0.98 or less, even better 0.97 or less, even better 0.96 or less and, ideally 0.95 or less.

[0158] The "average circularity" can be determined by an image analysis method. In particular, the "average circularity" can be an arithmetic mean of the circularity obtained by image analysis of a scanning electron microscope (SEM) image of not less than 2,000 aerogel particles observed at a magnification of 1,000 by secondary electron detection using a scanning electron microscope (SEM).

[0159] The "circularity" of each aerogel particle is a value determined by the following formula:

[0160] C = 4irS / L2

[0161] where C represents the circularity, S represents the faire (projected area) of the aerogel particle in the image, and L represents the length of a periphery (perimeter) of the aerogel particle in the image. As the average circularity approaches 1, the shape of each of the particles becomes more spherical.

[0162] The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that can be used as (e) hydrophobic inorganic filler according to the present invention are preferably of the silylated silica type (INCI name: silica silylate). Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles may be those described in JP-A-2014-088307, JP-A-2014-218433 or JP-A-2018-177620.

[0163] It is preferable to use hydrophobic silica silylate aerogels as an inorganic hydrophobic powder absorbing oil.

[0164] The hydrophobicity of hydrophobic silylate silica aerogels can be obtained by reacting a hydrophobicizing agent with a silanol group represented by the following formula existing on the surface of the silica:

[0165] =Si-OH

[0166] in which the symbol “=" represents the three remaining valences of the Si atom,

[0167] thus converting the silanol group into a group represented by the following formula:

[0168] (=Si-O-)(4.n)SiRn

[0169] in which n is an integer from 1 to 3; each R is independently a hydrocarbyl group and two or more Rs may be identical or different from each other, n being equal to or greater than 2.

[0170] The hydrophobic agent may be a silylating agent. Therefore, according to a preferred embodiment, in hydrophobic silylate aerogels, the particles Silica can be surface modified by silylation. Examples of silylating agents include a treatment agent having one of the following formulas (1) to (3).

[0171] Formula (1):

[0172] RnSiX(4.n)

[0173] in which n represents an integer from 1 to 3; R represents a hydrocarbyl group; X represents a group (i.e., a leaving group) that can leave a molecule by cleaving the bond with the Si atom in a reaction with a compound having a hydroxyl group; each R can be different where n is 2 or more; and each X can be different where n is 2 or less.

[0174] Formula (2):

[0175] where R1 represents an alkylene group; R2 and R3 independently represent a hydrocarbyl group; and R4 and R5 independently represent a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbyl group.

[0176] Formula (3):

[0177] wherein R6 and R7 independently represent a hydrocarbyl group; m represents an integer from 3 to 6; each R6 can be different when there are two or more R6s; and each R7 can be different when there are two or more R7s.

[0178] In formula (1) above, R is a hydrocarbyl group, preferably a hydrocarbyl group having a number of carbons from 1 to 10, more preferably a hydrocarbyl group having a number of carbons from 1 to 4, and especially preferably a methyl group.

[0179] Examples of the leaving group represented by X include halogen atoms such as chlorine and bromine; alkoxy groups such as the methoxy group and the ethoxy group; groups represented by -NH-SiR3 (the definition of R being the same as that of R in formula (1)).

[0180] Specific examples of the hydrophobic agent represented by the above formula (1) include: chlorotrimethylsilane, dichlorodimethylsilane, trichloromethylsilane, monomethyltrimethoxysilane, monomethyltriethoxysilane and hexamethyldisilazane.

[0181] Preferably, chlorotrimethylsilane, dichlorodimethylsilane, trichloromethylsilane and / or hexamethyldisilazane can be used from the point of view of favorable reactivity.

[0182] The number of bonds between the Si atom and the silanol group on the silica structure varies depending on the (4-n) number of the leaving group X. For example, if n is equal to 2, the following bond will occur:

[0183] (=Si-O-)2SiR2.

[0184] If n is equal to 3, the following bond will occur:

[0185] =Si-O-SiR3

[0186] In this way, the silanol groups can be silylated and, consequently, hydrophobization can be carried out.

[0187] In formula (2) above, R1 may be an alkylene group, preferably an alkylene group having a number of carbons from 2 to 8 and, in particular, an alkylene group having a number of carbons from 2 to 3.

[0188] In formula (2) above, R2 and R3 are independently a hydrocarbyl group, and the same preferred groups as those of R in formula (1) may be cited. R4 represents a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbyl group, and when it is a hydrocarbyl group, the same preferred groups as those of R in formula (1) may be cited. When a silica gel is treated with the compound (cyclic silazane) represented by formula (2), cleavage of Si-N bonds occurs by reaction with the silanol groups, and consequently, the following bond will occur on the surface of the silica framework in the gel:

[0189] (=Si-O-)2SiR2R3

[0190] In this way, the silanol group can also be silylated by the cyclic silazanes of formula (2) above and, consequently, hydrophobization can be carried out.

[0191] Specific examples of cyclic silazanes represented by formula (3) above include hexamethylcyclotrisilazane and octamethylcyclotetrasilazane.

[0192] In formula (3) above, R6 and R7 are independently a hydrocarbyl group, and the same preferred groups as those of R in formula (2) may be cited, m representing an integer from 3 to 6. When a silica gel is treated with the compound (cyclic siloxane) represented by formula (3), the following bonding occurs on the surface of the silica structure in the gel:

[0193] (=Si-O-)2SiR6R7.

[0194] In this way, silanol groups can also be silylated by the cyclic siloxanes of formula (3) above and, consequently, hydrophobization can be carried out.

[0195] Specific examples of cyclic siloxanes represented by formula (3) above include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

[0196] Hydrophobic silylate silica aerogels can be prepared by producing a silica sol, transforming the sol into a gel, aging the gel, washing the aged gel, replacing the water in the washed gel with a solvent, treating the gel with a hydrophobicating agent, and tinting the hydrophobic silica.

[0197] Hydrophobic silylate silica aerogels may have a specific surface area determined by the BET process of 200 m2 / g or more, preferably 400 m2 / g or more and, more preferably, 500 m2 / g or more, and may have a specific surface area determined by the BET process of 1200 m2 / g or less, preferably 1000 m2 / g or less, and more preferably, 800 m2 / g or less.

[0198] Hydrophobic silica silylate aerogels may have a BJH-determined pore volume of 1 mL / g or more, preferably 2 mL / g or more, and more preferably 3 mL / g or more, and may have a BJH-determined pore volume of 10 mL / g or less, preferably 8 mL / g or less, and more preferably 7 mL / g or less. Hydrophobic silica silylate aerogels may have a BJH-determined peak pore radius of 5 nm or more, preferably 10 nm or more, and more preferably 12 nm or more, and may have a BJH-determined peak pore radius of 50 nm or less, preferably 40 nm or less, and more preferably 30 nm or less.

[0199] The "pore volume determined by the BJH process" refers to a pore volume derived from a pore having a pore radius of 1 nm to 100 nm obtained by analysis, according to the BJH process (Barrett, EP, Joyner, LG, Halenda, PP, J. Am. Chem. Soc. 73, 373 (1951)), the adsorption isotherm of the nitrogen adsorption side obtained in the same manner as that explained in the "specific surface area determined by the BET process" above. The "pore radius peak determined by the BJT process" refers to a pore radius value that gives a peak in a pore distribution curve (volume distribution curve) which is plotted by taking on the vertical axis the differentiation of the cumulative pore volume by the logarithm of the pore radius obtained by analysis, by the BJH process, of the adsorption isotherm of the adsorption side of nitrogen obtained in the same way as above, and taking the pore radius on the horizontal axis.

[0200] Hydrophobic silica silylate aerogels may have an average particle size of 0.5 pm or more, preferably 1 pin or more, and more preferably 2 pm or more, and may have an average particle size by image analysis process of 30 pm or less, preferably 20 pm or less, and more preferably 15 pm or less.

[0201] The "average particle size" can be measured using an image analysis method. Specifically, the "average particle size" value is an arithmetic mean of the equivalent circle diameters that can be obtained by image analysis of a scanning electron microscope (SEM) image of not less than 2,000 aerogel particles observed at a magnification of 1,000 by secondary electron detection using a scanning electron microscope (SEM). The "equivalent circle diameter" of each aerogel particle is the diameter of a circle having an area equal to the area (projected area) of the aerogel particle in the image.

[0202] Preferably, hydrophobic silica silylate aerogels may have an oil absorption capacity, which can be measured at the wetting point, as explained above, of 2 ml / g or more, preferably 3 ml / g or more, more preferably 4 ml / g or more, and most preferably from 5 ml / g or more, and may have an oil absorption capacity, measured at the wetting point, of 12 ml / g or less, preferably 10 ml / g or less, more preferably 8 ml / g or less, and most preferably 7 ml / g or less.

[0203] It is preferable that the (e) hydrophobic inorganic filler be chosen from hydrophobically modified metal oxides, more preferably from hydrophobic silicas, and even more preferably from silica silylates.

[0204] The quantity of the hydrophobic inorganic filler(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0205] On the other hand, the quantity of the hydrophobic inorganic filler(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be 3% by weight or less, preferably 1% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0206] Thus, the quantity of the hydrophobic inorganic filler(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.01% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 1% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Ingredient: Hyaluronic acid)

[0207] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (d) at least one hyaluronic acid ingredient selected from the group consisting of hyaluronic acid, hyaluronic acid salts, hyaluronic acid derivatives, salts of hyaluronic acid derivatives, and mixtures thereof. Only one type of hyaluronic acid ingredient may be used, but two or more different types of hyaluronic acid ingredients may be used in combination.

[0208] Hyaluronic acid is a predominant glucosaminoglycan found in the skin. Fibroblasts primarily synthesize collagen, matrix glycoproteins other than collagen (fibronectin, laminin), proteoglycans, and elastin. Keratinocytes, on the other hand, primarily synthesize sulfated glycosaminoglycans and hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid is also called hyaluronan.

[0209] Hyaluronic acid is present in its free state in the epidermis and dermis and is responsible for skin turgor. This polysaccharide can actually retain a large volume of water, corresponding to 1000 times its weight. In this sense, hyaluronic acid plays an important role in increasing the amount of bound water in tissues, as well as in the mechanical properties of the skin and in the formation of wrinkles.

[0210] Hyaluronic acid can be represented by the following chemical formula.

[0212] In the context of the present invention, the term "hyaluronic acid" specifically covers the basic hyaluronic acid formula:

[0213] This is the smallest fraction of hyaluronic acid comprising a disaccharide dimer, namely D-glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine.

[0214] The term "hyaluronic acid" also includes, in the context of the present invention, the linear polymer comprising the polymeric motif described above, linked in the chain via alternating [3(1,4) and [3(1,3)] glycosidic bonds, having a molecular weight (MW) that can vary between 380 and 13,000,000 daltons. This molecular weight depends largely on the source from which the hyaluronic acid is obtained and / or the preparation processes.

[0215] The expression "hyaluronic acid" includes, in the context of the present invention, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid.

[0216] The expression "hyaluronic acid derivatives" includes, in the context of the present invention, hyaluronic acid esters, in particular those in which all or part of the carboxylic groups of the acid functions are esterified with oxyethylenated alkyls or alcohols, containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular with a degree of substitution at the level of D-glucuronic acid of hyaluronic acid ranging from 0.5 to 50%.

[0217] Examples include methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, n-pentyl, benzyl and dodecyl esters of hyaluronic acid. These esters were described in particular in D. Campoccia et al. “Semisynthetic resorbable materials from hyaluronan esterification”, Biomaterials 19 (1998) 2101-2127.

[0218] In one embodiment, the hyaluronic acid derivative may be, for example, acetylated hyaluronic acid.

[0219] The expression "hyaluronic acid derivatives" also includes, in the context of the present invention, cationic hyaluronic acids.

[0220] Cationic hyaluronic acid comprises at least one cationic fraction. The cationic fraction may be a trialkyl ammonium group such as -N+(CH3)3. The cationic fraction may include at least one hydroxyl group. Examples of the cationic group include -CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-N+(CH3)3.

[0221] Examples of cationic hyaluronic acid include hydroxypropyltrimonium hyaluronate.

[0222] Examples of hyaluronic acid salts or salts of hyaluronic acid derivatives include alkali metal salts such as sodium salt and potassium salt, alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salts, ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0223] The molecular weight of the (f) hyaluronic acid ingredient is not limited. The molecular weight of the (f) hyaluronic acid ingredient may be 5 kDa or more, preferably 20 kDa or more, and more preferably 100 kDa or more. The molecular weight of the (f) hyaluronic acid ingredient may be 20 MDa or less, preferably 10 MDa or less, and more preferably 2,000 kDa or less. Thus, the molecular weight of the (f) hyaluronic acid ingredient may be from 5 kDa to 20 MDa, preferably from 20 kDa to 10 MDa, and more preferably from 100 kDa to 2,000 kDa.

[0224] Unless otherwise defined in the descriptions, "molecular weight" may refer to an average molecular weight by weight.

[0225] The (f) hyaluronic acid ingredient may, in particular, be hyaluronic acid supplied by Centipro under the trade name Hyactive™ (Mt: 10 to 150 kDa), by Givaudan under the trade name Cristalhyal® (Mt: 1 to 1.4 MDa), by Bioland under the trade name Nutra™HA (Mt: 907,600 Da), by Bioland under the trade name Nutra™ HAF (Mt: 74,600 Da), or by Bioland under the trade name Oligo™ HA (Mt: 0.5 to 10.1 kDa), by Res Pharma under the trade name D-Factor® (Mt: 380 Da), or by Bloomage Freda Biopharm under the trade name Hybloom™ Sodium Hyaluronate (HA-T) (Mt: 1 000 kDa to 1,800 kDa).

[0226] A single hyaluronic acid ingredient of a single molecular weight, or a combination of two or more hyaluronic acid ingredients of different molecular weights, may be used as (f) hyaluronic acid ingredient.

[0227] It is preferable that the (f) hyaluronic acid ingredient be hyaluronic acid salts, and more preferably alkali metal salts of hyaluronic acid, such as sodium hyaluronate.

[0228] The quantity of the (f) hyaluronic acid ingredient(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.005% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0229] The quantity of the (f) hyaluronic acid ingredient(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 3% by weight or less, preferably 1% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0230] Thus, the quantity of the hyaluronic acid ingredient(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.001% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 1% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Polysaccharide)

[0231] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (g) at least one polysaccharide. If two or more polysaccharides are used, they may be identical or different.

[0232] The (g) polysaccharide may be present in the aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention, if the composition according to the present invention comprises (h) water. The (g) polysaccharide may function as a hydrophilic thickener that can thicken the aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention.

[0233] It is preferable that the (g) polysaccharide be derived from microorganisms or plants.

[0234] (g) Microorganism-derived polysaccharide means a polysaccharide produced by microorganisms such as germs or bacteria.

[0235] Examples of (g) polysaccharides derived from microorganisms include cardollan, xanthan gum, gellan gum, dextran, pullulan, sclerotium gum, and mixtures thereof.

[0236] It may be preferable for the (g) microorganism-derived polysaccharide to be selected from the group consisting of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof. Fermented polysaccharides such as Biosaccharide Gum-1, Biosaccharide Gum-2, and Biosaccharide-4 may also be used.

[0237] On the other hand, (g) plant-derived polysaccharide refers to a polysaccharide obtained from plants or algae.

[0238] Examples of the (g) plant-derived polysaccharide that can be used according to the present invention include, in particular: a. seaweed extracts, such as alginates, carrageenans, and agars, and mixtures thereof. Examples of carrageenans include Satiagum UTC30® and UTC10® from Degussa; an example of an alginate is sodium alginate sold under the name Kelcosol® by ISP; b. gums, such as guar gum and its non-ionic derivatives (hydroxypropyl guar), gum arabic, konjac gum or mannan gum, tragacanth gum, ghatti gum, karaya gum or locust bean gum; examples that may be cited include gum of guar gum sold under the name Jaguar HP105® by Rhodia; mannan and konjac gum® (1% gluconomannan) sold by GfN; c. modified or unmodified starches, such as those obtained, for example, from cereals such as wheat, maize or rice, legumes such as blond peas, tubers such as potato or cassava, tapioca starches; dextrins, such as maize dextrins; examples include Remy DR I® rice starch sold by Remy; Roquette B® maize starch; potato starch modified with 2-chloroethylaminodipropionic acid neutralized with sodium hydroxide, sold under the name Structure Solanace® by National Starch; the original tapioca starch powder sold under the name Tapioca pure® by the National Starch company; d. dextrins, such as dextrin extracted from maize under the name Index® from the company National Starch; e. Cellulose and its derivatives, in particular alkyl celluloses, hydroxyalkyl celluloses and alkyl hydroxyalkyl celluloses; examples include methylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and carboxymethylcelluloses. Examples include stearyl and cetylhydroxyethylcellulose. Examples of cetylhydroxyethylcelluloses include Polysurf 67CS® and Natrosol Plus 330® from Aqualon;

[0239] and their mixtures.

[0240] Preferably, the (g) plant-derived polysaccharide may be selected from an algal extract, a gum and a cellulose derivative, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, agars, locust bean gum, mannan and konjac gum, cetyl or stearyl hydroxyethylcelluloses and tapioca starches may be used.

[0241] The (g) plant-derived polysaccharide may be an algal extract selected from alginates, carrageenans, and agars, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, alginates or agars, or mixtures thereof, shall be used.

[0242] The (g) plant-derived polysaccharide may also be selected from a gum, such as guar gum, gum arabic, mannan and konjac gum and locust bean gum, and mixtures thereof.

[0243] The (g) plant-derived polysaccharide may also be a modified or unmodified starch selected from wheat starch, maize starch, rice starch, potato starch and tapioca starch, and mixtures thereof.

[0244] The (g) plant-derived polysaccharide may also be a dextrin, such as maize dextrin.

[0245] The (g) plant-derived polysaccharide may also be a cellulose derivative. The cellulose derivative may, in particular, be a (CrC3) hydroxyalkyl cellulose, notably modified with hydrophobic chains, including hydrophobic group(s) containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms. According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic substituent(s) used may be C8-C30 alkyl, arylalkyl, or alkylaryl groups, and preferably C10-C22 groups. Preferably, the hydrophobic substituent(s) according to the present invention may be saturated C10-C22 alkyl chains, and preferably C16-C20 alkyl chains, such as cetyl (C16), stearyl (C18), and behenyl (C20) groups. According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic substituent(s) according to the present invention may be cetyl groups.These cellulose derivatives containing one or more hydrophobic substituents according to the present invention may preferably have a viscosity between 100 and 100,000 mPas and preferably between 200 and 20,000 mPas, measured at 25 °C in a solution containing 1 wt% of a polymer in water, this viscosity being determined conventionally using a Brookfield LVT viscometer at 6 rpm with a No. 3 spindle. Among the cellulose derivatives containing one or more hydrophobic substituents that can be used in the compositions according to the present invention, cetyl hydroxyethylcelluloses sold under the names Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS and Polysurf 67 CS (INCI name: cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose) by Aqualon / Hercules may preferably be mentioned.

[0246] Preferably, the (g) plant-derived polysaccharide may be selected from non-cellulosic polysaccharides.

[0247] Preferably, the (g) polysaccharide is chosen from the group consisting of plant-derived polysaccharide, microorganism-derived polysaccharide, and mixtures thereof.

[0248] More preferably, the (g) polysaccharide is selected from the group consisting of an algae extract, a gum and a cellulose derivative, a sclerotium gum, a xanthan gum, fermented polysaccharides such as biosaccharide-1 gum, biosaccharide-2 gum and biosaccharide-4, and mixtures thereof.

[0249] More preferably still, the (g) polysaccharide is chosen from the group consisting of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, fermented polysaccharides such as biosaccharide-1 gum, biosaccharide-2 gum and biosaccharide-4, and mixtures thereof.

[0250] The quantity of the (g) polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.005% by weight or plus, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0251] On the other hand, the quantity of the (g) polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 3% by weight or less, preferably 2% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0252] The quantity of the (g) polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.001% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Water)

[0253] The composition according to the present invention may include (h) water.

[0254] The quantity of (h) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more and, more preferably, 70% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0255] Furthermore, the quantity of (h) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 95% by weight or less, preferably 90% by weight or less and more preferably 85% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0256] The quantity of (h) water in the composition according to the present invention can range from 50% to 95% by weight, preferably from 60% to 90% by weight, more preferably from 70% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Polyol)

[0257] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one polyol. Only one type of polyol may be used, but two or more different types of polyol may be used in combination.

[0258] The term "polyol" here refers to an alcohol having two or more hydroxy groups and does not include a saccharide or one of its derivatives. A saccharide derivative includes a sugar alcohol obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a saccharide, as well as a saccharide or sugar alcohol in which the hydrogen atom(s) in one or more of its hydroxy groups has been replaced by at least one substituent such as an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acyl group, or a carbonyl group.

[0259] The polyol may be a C2-Ci2 polyol, preferably a C2-C9 polyol, comprising at least 2 hydroxy groups and preferably 2 to 5 hydroxy groups.

[0260] The polyol can be a natural or synthetic polyol. The polyol can have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.

[0261] The polyol can be selected from glycerins and their derivatives, as well as glycols and their derivatives. Preferably, the polyol can be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,5-pentanediol and polyethylene glycol (5 to 50 ethylene oxide groups).

[0262] The polyol may be present in an amount from 0.01% to 25% by weight, and preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight, such as from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention. (Other optional ingredients)

[0263] The composition according to the present invention may also include an effective amount of other optional ingredients previously known elsewhere in cosmetic compositions, for example preservatives and co-preservatives; vitamins or provitamins, other than Vitamin B6, fragrances; plant extracts; etc.

[0264] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one organic solvent. The organic solvent is preferably miscible with water. Examples of organic solvents include, for instance, Ci-C4 alkanols such as ethanol and isopropanol; aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol and phenoxyethanol; similar products, and mixtures thereof.

[0265] Organic solvents may be present in an amount of 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.

[0266] Organic solvents may be present in an amount of 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.

[0267] Organic solvents may be present in an amount from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.

[0268] The composition according to the present invention may include a limited amount of oil(s).

[0269] The quantity of oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.5% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is particularly preferable that the composition according to the present invention not include oil.

[0270] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention includes a very limited amount of silicone(s).

[0271] Preferably, the amount of silicone(s), such as organopolysiloxanes, in the composition according to the present invention is 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.1% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is particularly preferable that the composition according to the present invention not include silicone.

[0272] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0273] - from 0.001% to 3% by weight of polyglutamic acid or sodium polyglutamate, as ingredient (a);

[0274] - from 0.001% to 1% by weight of Vitamin B6 and / or a salt of Vitamin B6, such as ingredient (b); and

[0275] - from 0.01% to 5% by weight of (poly)amino(poly)carboxylic acid, as than ingredient (c). (Preparation)

[0276] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and the optional ingredient(s), if applicable, as explained above.

[0277] The method and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention. Conventional methods and means include a homogenizer, for example, a turbine mixer. (Shape)

[0278] The composition according to the present invention can be in various forms.

[0279] The composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a fluid such as a viscous liquid at room temperature (25 °C) and under atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

[0280] The composition according to the present invention may be in the form of an aqueous gel, if the composition comprises the (d) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer and (h) water because the (h) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer can function as a hydrophilic thickener.

[0281] The composition according to the present invention may be transparent or translucent. (pH)

[0282] The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be less than 7.0, preferably less than 6.5 and more preferably, less than 6.0.

[0283] The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be greater than or equal to 3.0, preferably greater than or equal to 3.5 and more preferably greater than or equal to 4.0.

[0284] For example, the pH of the composition according to the present invention can be from 3.0 to less than 7.0, preferably from 3.5 to less than 6.5 and more preferably from 4.0 to less than 6.0.

[0285] The pH of the composition according to the present invention can be corrected by adding at least one alkali and / or at least one acid or one of its salts. The pH of the composition according to the present invention can also be corrected by adding at least one buffering agent. [Procedure and use]

[0286] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for a keratinous material such as skin.

[0287] The composition according to the present invention is suitable as a cosmetic skincare composition. For example, the composition according to the present invention can be used to moisturize the skin.

[0288] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be of the no-rinse type. In other words, it is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be used on a keratinous material such as skin without being rinsed off. Thus, it is preferable that the composition according to the present invention not be a cleansing composition.

[0289] The present invention also relates to a method, preferably a cosmetic method, for a keratinous material such as skin, comprising: the application to the keratinous material of the composition according to the present invention.

[0290] The cosmetic process here means a non-therapeutic beautification process for the care and / or makeup of the surface of a keratinous substance such as skin, preferably a non-therapeutic beautification process for skin care.

[0291] Preferably, the process according to the present invention is not a cleaning process. Therefore, it is preferable that the process according to the present invention does not include a step of rinsing the composition according to the present invention of the keratinous substance such as skin.

[0292] The present invention may also relate to a use of the composition as described above for the care and / or makeup of the surface of a keratinous material such as skin.

[0293] The present invention may also relate to the use of (c) at least one chelating agent other than EDTA or its salts in a composition comprising: a. at least one polyglutamic acid or one of its salts; and b. at least one compound selected from Vitamin B6, its derivatives, and their mixtures,

[0294] in order to improve the stability of the composition against light, in particular UV rays.

[0295] The above explanations concerning (a) polyglutamic acid or one of its salts, (b) compound selected from Vitamin B6, its derivatives, and mixtures thereof, and (c) chelating agent other than EDTA or its salts for the composition according to the present invention, may be applied to those in the above use.

[0296] The composition cited in the above use may include any of the optional ingredients explained above, such as ingredients (d) to (h). EXAMPLES

[0297] The present invention will be described in more detail by means of examples which, however, should not be interpreted as limiting the scope of the present invention. Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 [Preparation]

[0298] The following compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Example 1, shown in Table 1, were prepared by mixing the components listed in Table 1. The numerical values ​​of the quantities of components shown in Table 1 are all based on "% by weight" of raw materials. Symbols such as (a) in Table 1 correspond to those in the claims.

[0299] [Tables 1] Ingredient Ex. 1 Ex. comp. 1 (h) Water q.s. 100 q.s. 100 Glycerin 5 5 Pentylene glycol 3 3 Butylene glycol 3 3 Preservative q.s. q.s. (c) Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate 0.25 - (b) Pyridoxine HCl 0.031 0.031 (g) Biosaccharide gum 1 0.3 0.3 (g) Xanthan gum 0.05 0.05 (f) Sodium hyaluronate*1 0.05 0.05 (a) Sodium polyglutamate*2 0.05 0.05 (d) Sodium carbomer*3 0.96 0.96 (e) Silica silylate 0.2 0.2 pH adjuster qs qs UV stability Good Poor

[0300] sold by Bloomage Biotechnology Co., Ltd. under the trade name Hybloom™ Sodium Hyaluronate (HA-T)

[0301] *2; sold by Bloomage Biotechnology Co., Ltd. under the trade name Hyafactor™-PGA Sodium Polyglutamate (PGA-HM)

[0302] *3; sold by Sumitomo Seika Chemicals Co., Ltd. under the trade name AQUPEC MG N40R [Reviews] (UV stability)

[0303] Each of the compositions according to Example 1 and the Comparative Example was poured into a glass bottle. UV rays in the wavelength range of 300 nm to 800 nm were irradiated onto the glass bottle at room temperature for 24 hours using ATRAS SUNTEST CPS+ supplied by TOYOSEIKI in Japan. Each composition was then studied in terms of changes in its appearance and evaluated according to the following criteria:

[0304] Good: No difference after UV exposure

[0305] Bad: Water separation was observed after UV exposure

[0306] The results are shown in Table 1. (Summary)

[0307] The composition according to Example 1 was stable under UV rays. On the other hand, the composition according to Comparative Example 1 was unstable under UV rays.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for the skin, comprising: (a) at least one polyglutamic acid or one of its salts; (b) at least one compound selected from Vitamin B6, its derivatives, and mixtures thereof; and (c) at least one chelating agent other than EDTA or its salts.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein (b) compound is selected from pyridoxine salts and esters, preferably pyridoxine salts, more preferably pyridoxine inorganic acid addition salts, and even more preferably pyridoxine hydrochloride.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the (c) chelating agent is selected from (poly)amino(poly)carboxylic acids.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the (c) chelating agent is selected from the group consisting of trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, trisodium NTA, pentasodium pentetate, and a mixture thereof.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, further comprising (d) at least one neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer, preferably selected from sodium carbomer.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, further comprising (e) at least one hydrophobic inorganic filler, preferably selected from hydrophobic silicas, in particular silica silylates.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the composition further comprises (f) at least one hyaluronic acid ingredient selected from the group consisting of hyaluronic acid, hyaluronic acid salts, hyaluronic acid derivatives, salts of hyaluronic acid derivatives and mixtures thereof.

8. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the composition further comprises (g) at least one polysaccharide, preferably selected from the group consisting of an algal extract, a gum and a cellulose derivative, a sclerotium gum, a xanthan gum, fermented polysaccharides such as that biosaccharide-1 gum, biosaccharide-2 gum and biosaccharide-4, and their mixtures.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the composition comprises, in relation to the total weight of the composition: from 0.01% to 0.5% by weight of sodium polyglutamate, as an ingredient (a); from 0.01% to 0.1% by weight of pyridoxine HCl, as an ingredient (b); and from 0.1% to 1% by weight of trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, trisodium NT-A, pentasodium pentetate, and a mixture thereof, more preferably trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, as an ingredient (c).

10. A process for treating a keratinous substance, comprising the step of applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 to the keratinous substance.

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