ANTI-AGING SKINCARE COMPOSITION
A skincare composition with a retinol derivative, bark extract, and hydroxy acid combination addresses the inflammation issue of retinols, promoting skin cell renewal and reducing inflammatory cytokines, suitable for sensitive skin.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-10-01
- Publication Date
- 2026-04-03
AI Technical Summary
Anti-aging skincare compositions that include retinols often cause inflammation and irritation, particularly in populations with sensitized skin, such as those with chronic inflammation, atopic dermatitis, and psoriasis, necessitating the development of formulations that stimulate epidermal renewal while minimizing skin irritation.
A skincare composition comprising a retinol derivative, a bark extract rich in dihydroflavonols and catechin tannins, and optionally a hydroxy acid, which provides reduced retinol-associated inflammation and enhances skin cell proliferation, migration, and differentiation, as demonstrated by bulk RNA sequencing of human keratinocytes, and reduces inflammatory cytokines IL-1A and IL-23 in ex vivo human skin models.
The composition confers an anti-inflammatory retinol genetic signature to skin cells, restoring epidermal disruption and reducing inflammation, making it suitable for populations with sensitive skin.
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Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: ANTI-AGING SKINCARE COMPOSITION FIELD OF INVENTION
[0001] The present invention relates to a stable skin care composition having a combination of active components in sufficient quantities to treat the signs of aging, including a combination of ingredients that provides retinol-like efficacy without the irritation and inflammation associated with retinols. CONTEXT OF THE INVENTION
[0002] Anti-aging skincare compositions typically include a variety of active ingredients that provide various benefits to the skin. In particular, retinols are beneficial in promoting regeneration and thickening of the human epidermis by stimulating keratinocyte proliferation, which leads to the replacement and renewal of existing cells. Given the rapid renewal and shedding of the epithelium, a common side effect of retinols is inflammation, which may be intolerable in populations with sensitized skin, including chronic inflammation, atopic dermatitis, and psoriasis.
[0003] Thus, new cosmetic formulations that stimulate epidermal renewal while reducing skin irritation are needed for populations suffering from skin inflammation and sensitive skin. BRIEF SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0004] In various embodiments, the disclosure proposes a composition that includes a retinol derivative in combination with ingredients that reduce or eliminate undesirable inflammatory problems associated with retinols. In various embodiments, the composition includes at least one retinol derivative, at least one bark extract, and, in some embodiments, at least one hydroxy acid. In some embodiments, the bark extract includes one or more of at least one tannin and at least one flavonoid.
[0005] In the various embodiments, the composition may be supplied in one of several types of formulation, for example, selected from an oil-in-water emulsion, a silicone-in-oil emulsion, a water-in-oil emulsion, or an anhydrous / glycolic formulation that may be water-free or substantially free of water (other than as a solvent for a raw material). In some embodiments containing anhydrous and / or glycol, which contain little water or are essentially water-free, the glycols are present in quantities sufficient to solubilize certain active substances, such as niacinamide, in an otherwise anhydrous format.
[0006] The composition is stable and pleasant to the touch.
[0007] In one embodiment, a skincare composition is provided comprising a plurality of agents that include at least one retinol derivative and at least one bark or plant extract with a high concentration of dihydroflavonols and catechin tannins, the plurality of agents providing reduced retinol-associated inflammation compared to a composition that includes at least one retinol and is devoid of at least one bark extract, wherein the plurality of agents is selected from the group consisting of: i. at least one retinol derivative comprising hydroxypinacolone retinoate and at least one bark extract or plant extract with a high concentration of dihydroflavonols and catechin tannins; ii. at least one retinol derivative comprising hydroxypinacolone retinoate, at least one bark extract or plant extract with a high concentration of dihydroflavonols and catechin tannins, and at least one hydroxy acid; And iii. at least one retinol derivative comprising hydroxypinacolone retinoate, at least one bark extract comprising Eperua falcata bark extract, and at least one hydroxy acid comprising lactic acid;
[0008] wherein the composition confers one or more of increased skin cell proliferation, enhanced cell migration, enhanced cell differentiation, or a combination thereof, and wherein the application of the plurality of agents confers to skin cells and tissues an anti-inflammatory retinol genetic signature, as demonstrated by bulk RNA sequencing of human keratinocytes, and restores epidermal disruption and reduces inflammatory cytokines IL-1A and IL-23 in ex vivo models of chronic human skin inflammation.
[0009] In one embodiment, a method is proposed for minimizing the signs of skin aging, the method comprising:
[0010] (A) the supply of a plurality of agents which include at least one retinol derivative and at least one bark extract, the plurality of agents providing reduced retinol-associated inflammation compared to a composition which includes at least one retinol and is devoid of at least one bark extract, wherein the plurality of agents is selected from the group consisting of: i. at least one retinol derivative comprising hydroxypinacolone retinoate and at least one bark extract; ii. at least one retinol derivative comprising hydroxypinacolone retinoate, at least one bark extract, and at least one hydroxy acid; and iii. at least one retinol derivative comprising hydroxypinacolone retinoate, at least one bark extract comprising Eperua falcata bark extract, and at least one hydroxy acid comprising lactic acid;
[0011] wherein the composition confers one or more of the following: increased skin cell proliferation, improved cell migration, improved cell differentiation, or a combination thereof;
[0012] (B) the application of the composition to the skin; and
[0013] (C) following a regimen of repeated application of the composition for a period of at least 1 day,
[0014] wherein the application of the plurality of agents confers to skin cells and tissues an anti-inflammatory retinol genetic signature, as demonstrated by bulk RNA sequencing of human keratinocytes and restores epidermal disruption and reduces inflammatory cytokines IL-1A and IL-23 in ex-vivo human skin models of chronic inflammation.
[0015] In certain embodiments, the process includes the provision of one or more of a professional device or a device for home use, or a combination thereof, the professional device being selected from the group consisting of a microdermabrasion machine, a microneedling machine, an LED light therapy device, a high-frequency machine, a radiofrequency device, an ultrasound device, a cryotherapy machine, a laser device and combinations thereof, and the device for home use being selected from the group consisting of LED masks, microdermabrasion devices, microneedling devices, ultrasonic skin scrubbers, facial steamers, IPL skin rejuvenation devices, sonic eye massagers, fractional laser devices, cold laser therapy devices, microcurrent, and combinations thereof.
[0016] In one embodiment, a skincare composition is proposed, comprising:
[0017] an anti-aging system, comprising: i. at least one retinol derivative; ii. at least one hydroxy acid; and iii. at least one bark extract.
[0018] In certain embodiments of the skincare composition, in the anti-aging system: i. at least one retinol derivative is chosen from the group consisting of hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol, retinyl acetate, palmitate of retinyl, retinyl propionate, retinyl retinoate, bakuchiol and their combinations; ii. at least one hydroxy acid is chosen from the group consisting of lactic acid, gluconolactone, glycolic acid, mandelic acid, salicylic acid and their combinations; and iii. at least one bark extract is chosen from the group consisting of Eperua falcata bark extract, pine bark extract (Pinus Pinaster bark / bud extract), Ficus regligiosa bark, Virginia hazel extract, a plant extract with a high concentration of dihydroflavonols and catechin tannins, and combinations thereof.
[0019] In certain embodiments of the skincare composition, in the anti-aging system: i. at least one retinol derivative comprises hydroxypinacolone retinoate; ii. at least one hydroxy acid comprises lactic acid or gluconolactone; and iii. at least one bark extract includes an extract of Eperua falcata bark.
[0020] In certain embodiments of the skin care composition, in the anti-aging system; i. at least one retinol derivative is present from approximately 0.001% to approximately 3.0%, ii. at least one hydroxy acid is present from approximately 0.001% to approximately 5.0%; and iii. at least one bark extract is present from approximately 0.0001% to approximately 70%,
[0021] all quantities being in weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0022] In certain embodiments of the skin care composition, in the anti-aging system; i. at least one retinol derivative comprises hydroxypinacolone retinoate present from about 0.05% to about 0.5%; ii. at least one hydroxy acid comprises lactic acid present from approximately 1.0% to approximately 5.0%; and iii. At least one bark extract comprises Eperua falcata bark extract present from approximately 0.05% to approximately 0.5%,
[0023] all quantities being by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0024] In certain embodiments of the skincare composition, in the anti-aging system: i. Hydroxypinacolone retinoate is present at approximately 0.1%; ii. Lactic acid is present at approximately 3%; and iii. Eperua falcata bark extract is present at approximately 0.1%,
[0025] all quantities being by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0026] In some embodiments of the skin care composition, the composition comprises:
[0027] a carrier system comprising: i. at least one surfactant; ii. at least one fatty compound; and iii. at least one polymer thickener.
[0028] In certain embodiments of the skincare composition, at least one surfactant is selected from the group consisting of glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate, steareth-2, steareth-20, methyl gluceth-20, glyceryl stearate, and combinations thereof; at least one fatty compound is selected from the group consisting of caprylic / capric triglyceride, butyrospermum parkii butter, glycol palmitate, cholesterol, squalane, dicaprylyl ether, bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytostearyl dimer, dilinoleyl dimer, dilinoleate, C15-19 alkane, dimethicone, dimethicone (and) polysilicone-11, sodium lauroyl lactylate (and) ceramide NP (and) ceramide AP (and) phytosphingosine (and) cholesterol (and) xanthan gum (and) carbomer (and) ceramide EOP and their combinations, and at least one polymer thickener is selected from the group consisting of xanthan gum, C10-30 alkyl polyacrylate, cross-linked polypolymer-6 polyacrylate,C10-30 acrylate / alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, sclerotium gum, acacia gum, carbomer, acrylate crosslinked polymer, hydroxyethylcellulose, cellulose and their combinations.
[0029] In certain embodiments of the skincare composition, the carrier system comprises: i. water, a water-based solvent, or a combination thereof; and ii. Optionally, one or more additives chosen from the group consisting containing niacinamide, tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, tocopherol, panthenol, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, linoleic acid (and) linolenic acid, superoxide dismutase, ubiquinone, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, palmitoyl tripeptide-1 (and) palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, bisabolol, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, camellia sinensis leaf extract, boron nitride, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, sodium hydroxide, sodium PCA, phenoxyethanol and their combinations.
[0030] In one embodiment, a skincare composition is proposed, comprising:
[0031] an anti-aging system, comprising: i. at least one retinol derivative; ii. at least one hydroxy acid; and iii. at least one bark extract; and
[0032] a carrier system comprising: i. at least one surfactant; ii. at least one fatty compound; iii. at least one polymer thickener; iv. water, a water-based solvent or a combination thereof; and v. optionally, one or more additives.
[0033] In certain embodiments of the skin care composition:
[0034] in the anti-aging system: i. at least one retinol derivative is chosen from the group consisting of hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol, retinyl acetate, retinyl palmitate, retinyl propionate, retinyl retinoate, bakuchiol and their combinations; ii. at least one hydroxy acid is chosen from the group consisting of lactic acid, gluconolactone, glycolic acid, mandelic acid, salicylic acid and their combinations; and iii. at least one bark extract is selected from the group consisting of Eperua falcata bark extract, pine bark extract (Pinus pinaster bark / bud extract), Ficus regligiosa bark, witch hazel extract, a plant extract with a high concentration of dihydroflavonols and catechins, and combinations thereof; and
[0035] in the carrier system:
[0036] at least one surfactant is chosen from the group consisting of glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate, steareth-2, steareth-20, methyl gluceth-20, glyceryl stearate, and their combinations;
[0037] at least one fatty compound is selected from the group consisting of caprylic / capric triglyceride, butyrospermum parkii butter, glycol palmitate, cholesterol, squalane, dicaprylyl ether, bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytostearyl dimer, dilinoleyl dimer, dilinoleate, C15-19 alkane, dimethicone, dimethicone (and) polysilicone-11, sodium lauroyl lactylate (and) ceramide NP (and) ceramide AP (and) phytosphingosine (and) cholesterol (and) xanthan gum (and) carbomer (and) ceramide EOP, and combinations thereof; and
[0038] At least one polymer thickener is selected from the group consisting of xanthan gum, C10-30 alkyl polyacrylate, polyacrylate-6 crosslinked polymer, acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, sclerotium gum, gum acacia, carbomer, acrylate crosslinked polymer, hydroxyethylcellulose, cellulose and their combinations.
[0039] In certain embodiments of the skin care composition, the composition comprises at least one additive selected from the group consisting of niacinamide, tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, tocopherol, panthenol, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, linoleic acid (and) linolenic acid, superoxide dismutase, ubiquinone, pentaerythrite tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, palmitoyl tripeptide-1 (and) palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, bisabolol, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, camellia sinensis leaf extract, boron nitride, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, sodium hydroxide, sodium PCA, phenoxyethanol and their combinations.
[0040] According to certain embodiments of the skincare composition, in the carrier system: i. the composition includes water present in a range of about 25% to about 75%; ii. at least one surfactant is present in a range of approximately 0.5% to approximately 3%; iii. at least one fatty compound is present in a range of approximately 0.1% to approximately 20%; and iv. at least one polymer thickener is present in a range of approximately 0.01% to approximately 10%,
[0041] all quantities being in weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0042] In one embodiment, a skincare composition is proposed, comprising:
[0043] an anti-aging system, comprising: i. at least one retinol derivative comprising hydroxypinacolone retinoate present from approximately 0.05% to approximately 0.5%; and ii. at least one bark extract comprising Eperua falcata bark extract present from approximately 0.05% to approximately 0.5%,
[0044] all quantities being in weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0045] In certain embodiments of the skincare composition, the composition comprises:
[0046] a carrier system comprising: i. at least one surfactant; ii. at least one fatty compound; and iii. at least one polymer thickener.
[0047] In certain embodiments of the skin care composition, at least one surfactant is selected from the group consisting of glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate, steareth-2, steareth-20, methyl gluceth-20, glyceryl stearate, and combinations thereof, at least one fatty compound is selected from the group consisting of caprylic / capric triglyceride, butyrospermum parkii butter, glycol palmitate, cholesterol, squalane, dicaprylyl ether, bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytostearyl dimer, dilinoleyl dimer, dilinoleate, C15-19 alkane, dimethicone, dimethicone (and) polysilicone-11, sodium lauroyl lactylate (and) ceramide NP (and) ceramide AP (and) phytosphingosine (and) cholesterol (and) xanthan gum (and) carbomer (and) ceramide EOP and combinations thereof, and at least one polymer thickener is selected from the group consisting of xanthan gum, C10-30 alkyl polyacrylate, crosslinked polypolymer-6 polyacrylate, crosslinked acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate polymer, sclerotium gum, acacia gum, carbomer, crosslinked acrylate polymer, hydroxyethylcellulose, cellulose and their combinations.
[0048] Skin care composition, the carrier system comprising: i. water, a water-based solvent, or a combination thereof; and ii. Optionally, one or more additives chosen from the group consisting containing niacinamide, tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, tocopherol, panthenol, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, linoleic acid (and) linolenic acid, superoxide dismutase, ubiquinone, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, palmitoyl tripeptide-1 (and) palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, bisabolol, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, camellia sinensis leaf extract, boron nitride, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, sodium hydroxide, sodium PCA, phenoxyethanol and their combinations.
[0049] Other features and advantages of the present invention will become apparent from the following more detailed description of the preferred embodiment which illustrates, by way of example, the principles of the invention. DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0050] [Fig.1A] The [Fig.1A] is a schematic representation of epidermal renewal;
[0051] [Fig.1B] The [Fig.1B] is a diagram of the in vitro pipeline;
[0052] [Fig.lC] Fig.lC shows the results of the proliferation test at MTT (quantitative and sensitive detection of cell proliferation by measuring the rate of cell growth);
[0053] [Fig.1D] The [Fig.1D] shows the results of the analysis of the unbiased gene ontology trajectory;
[0054] [Fig.1E] Fig.1E shows the gene expression results;
[0055] [Fig 1E'] The [Fig.1E]' shows the gene expression results;
[0056] [Fig 1E”] The [Fig.1E]” shows the gene expression results;
[0057] [Fig.2A] and [Fig-2A'] The [Fig.2A]-2A' is a diagram of the characteristics of skin inflammation;
[0058] Fig. 2A-2A' is a diagram of the nuclear morphology of the yellow frames of infiltrating immune cells;
[0059] [Fig.2B] The [Fig.2B] is an experimental design diagram;
[0060] [Fig.2C] The [Fig.2C] shows images of histological sections of ex vivo human skin;
[0061] [Fig.2D] Fig.2D shows the quantification of secreted IL-1A;
[0062] [Fig.2D'] The [Fig.2D]' shows the quantification of secreted IL-23;
[0063] [Fig.3A] The [Fig.3A] shows images of histological sections of ex vivo human skin;
[0064] [Fig. 3B] Figure 3B shows the quantification of secreted IL-1A; and
[0065] [Fig.3B'] Fig.3B' shows the quantification of secreted IL-23.
[0066] It should be understood that the preceding and following descriptions are given solely by way of example and explanation, and are not intended to restrict any claimed subject matter. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0067] According to the disclosure, the inventors sought to offer a skincare composition that provides the skin-renewing benefits of retinols without the adverse effects associated with retinols, including inflammation and associated cellular and tissue effects.
[0068] Retinols regenerate and thicken the human epidermis by stimulating keratinocyte proliferation, leading to the replacement and renewal of existing cells. Given the rapid turnover and shedding of the epithelium, a common side effect of retinols is inflammation, which can be intolerable in populations with sensitized skin, including chronic inflammation, atopic dermatitis, and psoriasis, and in those with fair skin. Thus, new cosmetic formulations that stimulate epidermal renewal while reducing skin irritation are needed, particularly for populations with skin inflammation and sensitive skin.
[0069] The inventors have demonstrated the surprising synergistic effects of novel combinations of retinol, hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR), and at least one bark extract, for example, Eperua falcata bark extract (Eperuline), and in some embodiments, at least one hydroxy acid, for example, lactic acid (LA). The demonstrated results were obtained using 2D human keratinocytes and ex vivo human skin. The inventors have demonstrated that the Cell proliferation of 2D keratinocytes was stimulated by coupling HPR with LA, whereas this effect was not observed with gluconolactone polyhydroxyacid. The inventors demonstrated, using RNA sequencing in human 2D keratinocytes, that HPR-LA-Eperulin combinations exhibit an anti-inflammatory retinol genetic signature via bulk RNA sequencing, and that specific combinations of HPR-Eperulin and HPR-LA-Eperulin restore epidermal disruption and reduce the inflammatory cytokines IL-1A and IL-23 in ex-vivo human skin models of chronic inflammation.Specifically, with reference to the data provided here, when HPR-LA was combined with the anti-inflammatory extract Eperuline, the treated keratinocytes exhibited a retinol-based genetic signature with reduced inflammatory profiles, in which the expression of IL-1A, IL-1B, and IL-23 was found to be downregulated. Notably, IL-1A and IL-23 are associated with clinical manifestations of skin irritation and inflammation. Consistent with these data, when chronic inflammation was modeled in human skin ex vivo, the inventors also found that Eperuline combined with HPR or HPR-LA reduced the histological signs of inflammation and decreased secreted IL-1A and IL-23.
[0070] The unexpected findings with the new combinations of HPR-Eperuline and HPR-LA-Eperuline provide a basis for retinol-based anti-aging interventions with reduced inflammatory side effects. Thus, these proposed combinations are likely best suited to consumer populations with sensitive skin.
[0071] Composition:
[0072] A skincare composition according to the disclosure includes a plurality of agents that include at least one retinol derivative and at least one bark extract, the plurality of agents providing reduced retinol-associated inflammation compared to a composition that includes at least one retinol and is devoid of at least one bark extract. In some embodiments, the plurality of agents includes at least one hydroxy acid, for example, lactic acid. Therefore, the plurality of agents may include at least one retinol derivative comprising hydroxypinacolone retinoate and at least one bark extract that may include at least one bark extract comprising Eperua falcata bark extract and, in some embodiments, at least one hydroxy acid, for example, comprising lactic acid.The composition confers one or more of the following: increased skin cell proliferation, improved cell migration, enhanced cell differentiation, or a combination thereof. Application of the multiple agents confers to skin cells and tissues an anti-inflammatory retinol genetic signature, as demonstrated by bulk RNA sequencing of human keratinocytes, and restores the disruption. epidermal and reduces the inflammatory cytokines IL-1A and IL-23 in ex-vivo human skin models of chronic inflammation.
[0073] The skincare composition according to this disclosure finds application in a wide variety of treatments, particularly cosmetic treatments of keratinous tissue, such as skin, and more specifically facial skin. It will be understood that although the inventive composition is particularly suited for use on facial skin, it may be beneficial for use on specific areas of facial skin and more generally on the body, for example, on the skin of the lips, neck, hands, abdomen, and on the hair, including the scalp.
[0074] As described herein, in certain embodiments, the skincare composition can be used according to a monthly treatment regimen, or can be used for daily application over a shorter or longer period of time. Furthermore, the skincare composition can be used in conjunction with one or more applicators and instruments and, optionally, as part of a more extensive treatment regimen that includes the use of compositions containing other active ingredients and / or the use of one or more applicators and instruments.
[0075] In certain embodiments, the skin care composition can be used with one or more of a professional device or a home device, or a combination thereof, the professional device being chosen from the group consisting of a microdermabrasion machine, a microneedling machine, an LED light therapy device, a high-frequency machine, a radiofrequency device, an ultrasound device, a cryotherapy machine, a laser device and combinations thereof, and the home device being chosen from the group consisting of LED masks, microdermabrasion devices, microneedling devices, ultrasonic skin scrubbers, facial steamers, IPL skin rejuvenation devices, sonic eye massagers, fractional laser devices, cold laser therapy devices, microcurrent, and combinations thereof.
[0076] The various components of the composition as provided below represent examples of embodiments, and various alternative embodiments are given by way of example. It is therefore appreciated that other optional components compatible with cosmetic applications known in the art may be used. And of course, any of the possible components may be excluded.
[0077] Retinol derivative:
[0078] In various embodiments, the composition includes at least one retinol derivative selected from the group consisting of hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol, retinyl acetate, retinyl palmitate, retinyl propionate, retinyl retinoate, bakuchiol and their combinations.
[0079] Generally, suitable retinol derivatives can be selected from the group consisting of hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol, retinyl acetate, retinyl palmitate, retinyl propionate, retinyl retinoate, bakuchiol, and combinations thereof. Retinol derivatives may also be called retinal, retinal esters, or retinyl linoleate.
[0080] In some embodiments, at least one retinol derivative includes hydroxypinacolone retinoate.
[0081] In some embodiments, the skin care composition is in the form of an oil and water emulsion. Hydroxypinacolone retinoate
[0082] In various embodiments, the skincare composition includes at least one retinol derivative. In some embodiments, the skincare composition includes at least the retinol derivative hydroxypinacolone retinoate.
[0083] The amount of at least one retinol derivative, for example, hydroxypinacolone retinoate, present in the skincare composition will vary, but in various embodiments it is from about 0.001% to about 3%, or from about 0.01% to about 0.5%, or from about 0.05% to about 0.2%, or about 0.1%, or any appropriate combination, subcombination, range, or subrange of these values by weight, relative to the weight of the skincare composition. A person skilled in the art will understand, however, that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.
[0084] Thus, at least one retinol derivative, for example hydroxypinacolone retinoate, is present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the anti-aging composition, from approximately 0.001, 0.002, 0.003, 0.004, 0.005, 0.006, 0.007, 0.008, 0.009, 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0.80, 0.90, 1.0, 2 to approximately 3 percent by weight, including the increments and intermediate ranges.
[0085] Bark extract:
[0086] In various embodiments, the composition includes at least one bark extract selected from the group consisting of Eperua falcata bark extract, pine bark extract (Pinus pinaster bark / bud extract), Ficus regligiosa bark, and combinations thereof. In some embodiments, the composition includes, as a bark extract, any natural plant extract that is rich in dihydroflavonols and catechins.
[0087] In some embodiments, the skin care composition is in the form of an oil and water emulsion. Extract of Eperua falcata bark
[0088] In some embodiments, at least one anti-inflammatory agent includes an extract of Eperua falcata bark. The Eperua falcata bark extract reduces ROS, reduces inflammation, and improves mitophagy in skeletal muscle.
[0089] When present, the amount of at least one anti-inflammatory agent, for example, an extract of Eperua falcata bark, in the skincare composition will vary, but in various embodiments, it is from about 0.01% to about 10%, or from about 0.02% to about 5%, or from about 0.04% to about 0.5%, or from about 0.06% to about 0.2%, or about 0.1%, or any appropriate combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range of these values by weight, relative to the weight of the skincare composition. However, those skilled in the art will appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.
[0090] Thus, at least one anti-inflammatory agent, for example comprising an extract of Eperua falcata bark, is present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the skin care composition, from about 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.90, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 to about 10 percent by weight, including increments and intermediate ranges.
[0091] Hydroxyacid:
[0092] In various embodiments, the composition may include at least one hydroxy acid.
[0093] In some embodiments, the composition includes at least one alpha-hydroxy acid comprising lactic acid or a polyhydroxy acid comprising gluconolactone. In some embodiments, the composition includes at least lactic acid. Alpha-hydroxy acids
[0094] According to certain embodiments, the skincare composition may comprise at least one alpha-hydroxy acid. In some embodiments, the composition includes at least one alpha-hydroxy acid comprising lactic acid. Lactic acid, or 2-hydroxypropanoic acid, can improve skin exfoliation and stimulate the production of glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) in the skin, thereby improving the skin's barrier function and hydration.
[0095] Suitable alpha-hydroxy acids include lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, citric acid, ester derivatives of the aforementioned acids, and combinations thereof. Examples of ester derivatives include ester compounds of glycolic acid and lactic acid, such as methyl lactate, ethyl lactate, and butyl lactate, and similarly, ester compounds of glycolic acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, and citric acid.
[0096] Where appropriate, the skin care composition includes an alpha-hydroxy acid concentration in a range of approximately 0.0001% to approximately 70%, or approximately 0.001% to approximately 60%, or from approximately 0.01% to approximately 50%, or from approximately 0.1% to approximately 25%, or from approximately 1% to approximately 15%, or from approximately 1% to approximately 5%, or approximately 3%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range, or subrange of these values by weight, relative to the weight of the skincare composition. However, those skilled in the art will appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention. According to certain embodiments, the amount of alpha hydroxy acid present does not exceed approximately 10%.
[0097] Thus, any one of the alpha-hydroxy acids or one of their combinations may be present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the skin care composition, of approximately 0.0001, 0.0002, 0.0003, 0.0004, 0.0005, 0.0006, 0.0007, 0.0008, 0.0009, 0.001, 0.002, 0.003, 0.004, 0.005, 0.006, 0.007, 0.008, 0.009, 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0.80, 0.90, 1.0, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, 50, 51 52, 53, 54, 55, 56, 57, 58, 59, 60, 61, 62, 63, 64, 65, 66, 67, 68, 69 up to approximately 70% by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges. Polyhydroxy acid
[0098] According to certain embodiments, the skin care composition may include at least one polyhydroxy acid.
[0099] In some embodiments, the composition includes at least one polyhydroxy acid comprising gluconolactone. Suitable polyhydroxy acids include gluconolactone and its derivatives and combinations thereof.
[0100] Where appropriate, the skincare composition comprises a concentration of polyhydroxy acids in the range of approximately 0.0001% to approximately 70%, or approximately 0.001% to approximately 60%, or approximately 0.01% to approximately 50%, or approximately 0.1% to approximately 25%, or approximately 1% to approximately 15%, or approximately 1% to approximately 5%, or approximately 3%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range, or subrange of these values by weight relative to the weight of the skincare composition. However, those skilled in the art will appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention. According to certain embodiments, the amount of polyhydroxy acid present does not exceed approximately 10%.
[0101] Thus, any one of the polyhydroxy acids or one of their combinations may be present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the skin care composition, of approximately 0.0001, 0.0002, 0.0003, 0.0004, 0.0005, 0.0006, 0.0007, 0.0008, 0.0009, 0.001, 0.002, 0.003, 0.004, 0.005, 0.006, 0.007, 0.008, 0.009, 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0.80, 0.90, 1.0, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, 50 51, 52, 53, 54, 55, 56, 57, 58, 59, 60, 61, 62, 63, 64, 65, 66, 67, 68, 69 up to about 70% by weight, including increments and intermediate ranges. Beta-hydroxy acid
[0102] According to certain embodiments, the skincare composition may comprise at least one beta-hydroxy acid. The term "beta-hydroxy acid" is intended to mean a carboxylic acid having a hydroxyl functional group and a carboxyl functional group separated by two carbon atoms. A beta-hydroxy acid may be present in the skincare composition in the form of the free acid and / or in the form of one of its associated salts (salts with an organic base or an alkali metal, in particular), especially depending on the final pH imposed on the skincare composition.
[0103] Suitable beta-hydroxy acids include salicylic acid and its derivatives (including 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid, salicylate, sodium salicylate, and a willow extract), capryloylsalicylic acid, beta-hydroxybutanoic acid, propionic acid, beta-hydroxy beta-methylbutyric acid, tropic carnitine acid and trethocanic acid, and combinations thereof.
[0104] Where appropriate, the skin care composition includes a concentration of beta-hydroxy acid in a range of approximately 0.1% to not more than approximately 2% beta-hydroxy acid, or approximately 1.9% beta-hydroxy acid, or up to a maximum of approximately 1% beta-hydroxy acid, or approximately 0.1% to approximately 1% beta-hydroxy acid, or approximately 0.2% to approximately 2.0%, or approximately 0.1% to approximately 1.5%, or approximately 0.2% to approximately 1.5%, or approximately 0.3% to approximately 1.0%, or approximately 0.35% to approximately 0.75%, or approximately 0.4% to approximately 0.5%, or is approximately 0.45%, or any appropriate combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range of these values by weight, relative to the weight of the skin care composition. the skin. However, a person skilled in the art will appreciate that other beaches fall within the scope of the invention.
[0105] Thus, at least one beta-hydroxy acid, if present, is present in the skin care composition from about 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, to about 2.0 percent, by weight, including increments and all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges.
[0106] Surfactant:
[0107] In various embodiments, the skincare composition may include at least one surfactant selected from nonionic, cationic, amphoteric, and anionic surfactants. In some embodiments, the skincare composition may include, or alternatively may be substantially free from, or exclude one or more nonionic, cationic, amphoteric, or anionic surfactants.
[0108] In some embodiments, the composition may include at least one surfactant selected from the group consisting of glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate, steareth-2, steareth-20, methyl gluceth-20, glyceryl stearate, and combinations thereof.
[0109] In some embodiments, the composition may include each of glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate, steareth-2, steareth-20, methyl gluceth-20, glyceryl stearate and combinations thereof.
[0110] In certain embodiments, one or more surfactants may be provided incidentally as carriers in raw materials containing selected actives or additives, and such surfactants are not specifically added as a component of the inventive composition.
[0111] When present, at least one surfactant is present in the skincare composition at a concentration of approximately 0.1% to approximately 15%, or approximately 0.1% to approximately 12%, or approximately 0.1% to approximately 10%, or approximately 0.2% to approximately 5%, or approximately 0.5% to approximately 3%, or any appropriate combination, subcombination, range, or subrange of these values by weight relative to the weight of the skincare composition. However, those skilled in the art will appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.
[0112] In some embodiments, the skin care composition comprises more than one surfactant, wherein each surfactant may be present in the skin care composition from about 0.1% to about 15%, or from about 0.1% to about 12%, or from about 0.1% to about 10%, or from about 0.2% to about 5%, or from about 0.5% to about 3%, or any appropriate combination, subcombination, range or subrange of these values by weight, relative to the weight of the skin care composition. According to such embodiments, the total amount of surfactant that may be present in the composition may be within a range of about 0.1% to about 25%, or about 0.1% to about 15%, or about 0.1% to about 10%, or about 0.5% to about 9%, or any appropriate combination, subcombination, range or subrange of these values by weight, relative to the weight of the skin care composition.
[0113] In some representative embodiments, the surfactants may be present in the following quantities (all as percentages, (%) by weight, relative to the weight of the composition): steareth-2 (0.50), steareth-20 (1.00), methyl gluceth-20 (1.00), glyceryl stearate (0), glyceryl stearate (1.50), PEG-100 stearate (1.50).
[0114] In some representative embodiments, the surfactants may be present in the following quantities (all as percentages, (%) by weight, relative to (by weight of composition): steareth-2 (1.50), steareth-20 (2.00), methyl gluceth-20 (0), glyceryl stearate (3.50), PEG-100 stearate (1.50).
[0115] Thus, at least one surfactant, when present, is present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the skincare composition, from approximately 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, to approximately 15% by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges, and a combination of surfactants, when present, is present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the skincare composition, from approximately 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, at approximately 25% by weight, including increments and intermediate ranges.
[0116] Fatty compounds and ceramides:
[0117] In some embodiments, the composition may include at least one fatty compound.
[0118] In some embodiments, the composition may include fatty compounds selected from the group consisting of caprylic / capric triglyceride, butyrospermum parkii butter, glycol palmitate, cholesterol, squalane, dicaprylyl ether, bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytostearyl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate, C15-19 alkane, dimethicone, dimethicone (and) polysilicone-11, sodium lauroyl lactylate (and) ceramide NP (and) ceramide AP (and) phytosphingosine (and) cholesterol (and) xanthan gum (and) carbomer (and) ceramide EOP, and combinations thereof.
[0119] In some embodiments, the composition may include each of the fatty compounds comprising caprylic / capric triglyceride, butyrospermum parkii butter, glycol palmitate, cholesterol, squalane, dicaprylyl ether, bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytostearyl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate, C15-19 alkane, dimethicone, dimethicone (and) polysilicone-11 and sodium lauryl lactylate (and) ceramide NP (and) ceramide AP (and) phytosphingosine (and) cholesterol (and) xanthan gum (and) carbomer (and) ceramide EOP.
[0120] In some embodiments, the composition may include at least one fatty compound selected from the group consisting of caprylic / capric triglyceride, butyrospermum parkii butter, glycol palmitate, cholesterol, squalane, dicaprylyl ether, bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytostearyl dilinoleate dimer, C15-19 alkane, dimethicone, dimethicone (and) polysilicone-11, one or more ceramides selected from Ceramide EOP, Ceramide AS, Ceramide AP, Ceramide NS, Ceramide NP, Ceramide NH, Ceramide AH, Ceramide EOH, Ceramide EOS, Ceramide AdS, Ceramide NdS, Ceramide EOdS, Phytosphingosine, Sphingosine, 2-Oleyl-l,3-octadecanediol, ceramide precursors, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, cholesterol, cholesterol sulfate and their combinations.
[0121] In certain embodiments, one or more fatty compounds may be provided incidentally as carriers in raw materials containing selected active ingredients or additives, and such fatty compounds are not specifically added as a component of the inventive composition.
[0122] When present, at least one fatty compound is present in the skin care composition from about 0.1% to about 20%, or from about 2% to about 18%, or from about 5% to about 15%, or from about 8% to about 12%, or from about 2% to about 6%, or from about 0.1% to about 3%, or from about 0.1% to about 0.35%, or from about 1% to about 3%, or from about 1.5% to about 2%, or from about 0.1%, or about 0.35%, or from about 1%, or about 1.5%, or about 2%, or about 3%, or any appropriate combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range of these values by weight, relative to the weight of the skin care composition. However, a person skilled in the art will appreciate that other beaches fall within the scope of the invention.
[0123] In certain embodiments, the skincare composition includes more than one fatty compound, in which each fatty compound may be present in the skincare composition within the ranges and amounts indicated above. According to such embodiments, the total amount of fatty compound that may be present in the composition may be within a range of approximately 0.1% to approximately 40%, or any appropriate combination, subcombination, range, or subrange of these values by weight, relative to the weight of the skincare composition.
[0124] In some embodiments, the total amount of fatty compounds includes from about 5% to about 30%, or from about 8% to about 24%, or from about 10% to about 20%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the skin care composition.
[0125] In some representative embodiments, the fatty compounds may be present in the following quantities (all as percentages, (%) by weight, relative to the weight of the composition): bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytostearyl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate (3), butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter (2), C15-19 alkane (1.00), ceramide ap (0.002750), ceramide eop (0.000005), ceramide np (0.005000), cholesterol (0.35), caprylic / capric triglyceride (2.00), dicaprylyl ether (0), dimethicone (0), dimethicone (3.36), glycine soja (soybean) oil (0.05), glycol palmitate (1.50), squalane (3.00), polysilicone-11 (0.64).
[0126] In some representative embodiments, the fatty compounds may be present in the following quantities (all as percentages, (%) by weight, relative to the weight of the composition): bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytostearyl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate (0), butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter (0), C15-19 alkane (3.00), ceramide ap (0.002750), ceramide eop (0.000005), ceramide np (0.005000), cholesterol (0.10), caprylic / capric triglyceride (0), dicaprylyl ether (2), dimethicone (0.75), dimethicone (0), glycine soja (soybean) oil (0), glycol palmitate (0), squalane (2.00), linoleic acid (0.38), linolenic acid (0.12), poly silicone-11 (0).
[0127] Thus, at least one fatty compound, if any, is present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the skin care composition, from approximately 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, to approximately 20% by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges, and a combination of fatty compounds, if any, is present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the skin care composition, from approximately 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39 at approximately 40% by weight, including increments and intermediate ranges.
[0128] Cosmetically acceptable solvent:
[0129] Embodiments of the skincare composition according to the disclosure may contain at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent. In various embodiments, the cosmetically acceptable solvents may be selected from water, water-based solvents, or combinations thereof. In some embodiments, the composition is anhydrous and includes one or more water-based solvents for solvating the active ingredients and additives. In some embodiments, the composition is an emulsion of the water-in-oil, oil-in-water, or silicone-in-water type, etc.
[0130] According to the various embodiments, water may be present in the skincare composition in a range from approximately 10% to approximately 90%, or from approximately 20% to approximately 75%, or from approximately 25% to approximately 70%, or from approximately 30% to approximately 65%, or from approximately 50% to approximately 60%, or any appropriate combination, subcombination, range, or subrange of these values by weight relative to the weight of the skincare composition. However, those skilled in the art will appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.
[0131] Thus, water may be present by weight, relative to the weight of the skin care composition, of approximately 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, 50, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55, 56, 57, 58, 59, 60, 61, 62, 63, 64, 65, 66, 67, 68, 69, 70, 71 72, 73, 74, 75, 76, 77, 78, 79, 80, 81, 82, 83, 84, 85, 86, 87, 88, 89 at approximately 90% in weight, including intermediate increments and ranges.
[0132] The water used may be sterile demineralized water and / or floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or linden water, and / or natural thermal or mineral water such as, for example: Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, La Roche-Posay water, La Bourboule water, water water from Enghien-les-Bains, water from Saint-Gervais-les-Bains, water from Néris-les-Bains, water from Allevar-les-Bains, water from Digne, water from Maizières, water from Neyrac-les-Bains, water from Lons-le-Saunier, water from Eaux-Bonnes, water from Rochefort, water from Saint-Christau, water from Les Fumades, water from Tercis-les-Bains or water from Avène.
[0133] The aqueous phase may also include reconstituted thermal water, i.e. water containing trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium etc., reconstituting the characteristics of thermal water.
[0134] The skin care composition has a pH of about 3 to about 7, and in some embodiments of about 3.5 to about 7, and in some embodiments of about 4 to about 5, or about 4.8.
[0135] The pH can be corrected to the desired value by adding a base (organic or inorganic), for example sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or another suitable base, or combinations thereof. Water-soluble solvents
[0136] According to certain embodiments, the skincare composition may include at least one water-based or water-soluble solvent. The terms "water-soluble solvent," "water-miscible solvent," and "water-based solvent" refer to a compound that is liquid at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), and that has a solubility of at least 50% in water under these conditions. In some cases, the water-based solvent has a solubility of at least 60%, 70%, 80%, or 90% in water under these conditions.
[0137] In some embodiments, the composition includes water and at least one water-based solvent. In some embodiments, the composition does not include water or any water-based solvent. In some embodiments, the composition is water-free and includes water-based solvents, for example, glycols.
[0138] In some embodiments, the composition includes at least one water-based solvent selected from the group consisting of water, glycerin, propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol and their combinations.
[0139] In certain particular embodiments, the composition includes water, glycerin, propanediol and butylene glycol.
[0140] In certain embodiments, water or one or more water-based solvents may be provided incidentally as carriers in raw materials containing selected active ingredients or additives, and such solvents are not specifically added as a component of the inventive composition.
[0141] By way of example of organic solvents, one may mention, without limitation, ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, Monomethyl-, monoethyl-, and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, or their ethers, such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and dipropylene glycol, as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether. Organic solvents may be volatile or non-volatile compounds.
[0142] Other non-limiting examples of water-based solvents include alkanols (polyhydric alcohols, glycols, and polyols) such as glycerin, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,3-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, tetraethylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, 2-butene-l,4-diol, 2-ethyl-l,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol and 4-methyl-l,2-pentanediol.
[0143] Other non-limiting examples of water-based solvents include alkyl alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, methanol, butanol, propanol and isopropanol;glycol ethers such as monomethyl ethylene glycol ether, monoethyl ethylene glycol ether, monobutyl ethylene glycol ether, ethylene glycol acetate monomethyl ether, monomethyl diethylene glycol ether, monoethyl diethylene glycol ether, mono-n-propyl diethylene glycol ether, mono-isopropyl ethylene glycol ether, mono-isopropyl diethylene glycol ether, mono-n-butyl ethylene glycol ether, mono-t-butyl ethylene glycol ether, mono-t-butyl diethylene glycol ether, 1-methyl-l-methoxybutanol, monomethyl propylene glycol ether, monoethyl propylene glycol ether, mono-t-butyl propylene glycol ether, mono-n-propyl propylene glycol ether, mono-isopropyl propylene glycol ether, monomethyl dipropylene glycol ether, monoethyl dipropylene ether glycol, mono-n-propyl dipropylene glycol ether and mono-iso-propyl dipropylene glycol ether;2-pyrrolidone, N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone, 1,3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone, formamide, acetamide, dimethyl sulfoxide, sorbitol, sorbitan, acetin, diacetinate, triacetin, sulfolane, or mixtures thereof.
[0144] In accordance with the various embodiments, where applicable, the quantity of at least one water-based solvent is from approximately 0.1% to approximately 25%, or from approximately 0.1% to approximately 2%, or from approximately 0.1% to approximately 1%, or from approximately 0.1% to approximately 0.8%, or from approximately 0.1% to approximately 0.5%, or from approximately 1% to approximately 20%, or from approximately 1% to approximately 10%, or from approximately 2% to approximately 8%, or any appropriate combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range of these values in weight, compared to the weight of the skincare composition. However, a person skilled in the art will appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.
[0145] In some embodiments, the skin care composition includes more than one water-soluble solvent, each water-soluble solvent being present in an amount such as set out above, in which each different water-soluble solvent may be present in one of the ranges selected from the ranges set out above.
[0146] In some representative embodiments, water-based solvents may be present in the following quantities (all as percentages, (%) by weight, relative to the weight of the composition): glycerin (4.6), propanediol (0), butylene glycol (3.60), ethylhexylglycerin (0.0015).
[0147] In some representative embodiments, water-based solvents may be present in the following quantities (all as percentages, (%) by weight, relative to the weight of the composition): glycerin (6.7), propanediol (2.00), butylene glycol (0.60), ethylhexylglycerin (0.0015).
[0148] Thus, each water-based solvent or combination of water-based solvents may be present by weight, relative to the total weight of the skin care composition, from about 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24 to about 25% by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges.
[0149] Polymers / thickeners:
[0150] In various embodiments, the skin care composition may include at least one thickener. The thickener may be thickening polymers.
[0151] In some embodiments, at least one thickener is a polymer selected from the group consisting of xanthan gum, C10-30 alkyl polyacrylate, polyacrylate-6 crosslinked polymer, acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, sclerotium gum, acacia gum, carbomer, acrylate crosslinked polymer, hydroxyethylcellulose, cellulose and their combinations.
[0152] In some embodiments, at least one thickening polymer includes each of xanthan gum, C10-30 alkyl polyacrylate, polyacrylate-6 crosslinked polymer, and C10-30 acrylate / alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer.
[0153] In certain embodiments, one or more thickening polymers may be provided incidentally as carriers in raw materials containing selected active ingredients or additives, and such thickening polymers are not specifically added as a component of the inventive composition.
[0154] Other non-limiting examples of thickening polymers may be chosen from the group consisting of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, carrageenan, acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, amylopectin, calcium alginate, sodium alginate, calcium carrageenan, camitin, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, tragacanth gum, acacia gum, gum arabic, hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride, hectorite, hydrated silica, hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl guar, karaya gum, kelp, locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, carrageenan, propylene glycol acrylate, sodium carboxymethyl dextran, sodium carrageenan, tragacanth gum, modified xanthan gum, biosaccharide gum, chitin, levan, elsinan, collagen, zein, gluten, soy protein, casein, Zea mays starch (maize), C10-30 alkyl polyacrylate, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer, carbomer and their combinations.
[0155] At least one thickening polymer, if any, is present in the skincare composition from approximately 0.01% to approximately 10%, or from approximately 0.2% to approximately 3%, or from approximately 0.5% to approximately 2%, or from approximately 0.2% to approximately 0.8%, or from approximately 0.3% to approximately 0.5%, or any appropriate combination, subcombination, range, or subrange of these values by weight relative to the weight of the skincare composition. However, those skilled in the art will appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.
[0156] In certain embodiments, the skincare composition includes more than one thickening polymer, in which each thickening polymer may be present in the skincare composition within the ranges and amounts indicated above. According to such embodiments, the total amount of thickening polymer that may be present in the composition may be within a range of approximately 0.1% to approximately 20%, or approximately 0.2% to approximately 10%, or approximately 0.5% to approximately 3%, or approximately 0.8% to approximately 2%, or approximately 1%, or up to approximately 1%, or up to approximately 2%, or any combination, subcombination, range, or subrange of these values by weight, relative to the weight of the skincare composition.
[0157] In some representative embodiments, the polymers may be present in the following quantities (all as percentages, (%) by weight, relative to the weight of the composition): C10-30 acrylate / alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer (0.4), xanthan gum (0.30175), C10-30 alkyl polyacrylate (0), polyacrylate-6 crosslinked polymer (0.30), carbomer (0.0315).
[0158] In some representative embodiments, the polymers may be present in the following quantities (all as percentages, (%) by weight, relative to the weight of the composition): C10-30 acrylate / alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer (0.50), xanthan gum (0.00175), C10-30 alkyl polyacrylate (0.60), polyacrylate-6 crosslinked polymer (0.30), carbomer (0.0315).
[0159] Thus, a thickener or a combination of thickeners may be present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the skin care composition, from about 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.90, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 to about 20% by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges.
[0160] Optional additives:
[0161] In some embodiments, one or more optional active ingredients or other ingredients (here “additives”) may be present in the skin care composition.
[0162] In some embodiments, one or more additives may be provided incidentally as carriers in raw materials containing selected actives or additives, and such surfactants are not specifically added as a component of the inventive composition. Therefore, in some embodiments, the skincare composition includes incidental additives (which may generally include additives as described below, as well as surfactants, fatty compounds, solvents, and polymer thickeners) that are present in the raw materials of various ingredients, including the inventive composition. For example, ceramides as they may be included in the inventive skincare composition include ceramide actives conjugated to other ingredients, including sodium lauroyl lactylate, phytosphingosine, cholesterol, xanthan gum, and carbomer.Other incidental ingredients include, but are not limited to, dextrin, dimethyl isosorbide, and sodium lactate.
[0163] In certain embodiments, the skin care composition includes at least one additive that is a skin active selected from the group consisting of niacinamide, tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, panthenol, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, linoleic acid (and) linolenic acid, superoxide dismutase, ubiquinone, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, palmitoyl tripeptide-1 (and) palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, bisabolol, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, camellia sinensis leaf extract, boron nitride, and combinations thereof.
[0164] In some embodiments, the skin care composition includes additives selected from the group consisting of tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, sodium hydroxide, sodium PCA, phenoxyethanol and their combinations.
[0165] In some embodiments, the skin care composition includes one of the following: niacinamide, tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, panthenol, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, linoleic acid (and) linolenic acid, superoxide dismutase, ubiquinone, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, palmitoyl tripeptide-1 (and) palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, bisabolol, hyaluronate hydrolyzed sodium, camellia sinensis leaf extract, boron nitride and tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, sodium hydroxide, sodium PCA and phenoxyethanol.
[0166] In certain embodiments, one or more additives may be selected from: antimicrobials; chelating agents; oils; fatty alcohols; fatty amides; alkylene carbonates; glycols; lower alcohols (e.g., ethanol; propanediol); anti-elastase and anti-collagenase agents; peptides; fatty acid derivatives; steroids; trace elements; algae and plankton extracts; enzymes and coenzymes; cationic polymers such as naturally occurring polymers such as chitosan and polylysine, and polyquaternium compounds; fillers; clays; penetrants; sequestrants; perfumes; dispersants; skin care actives such as organic and inorganic UV filters.
[0167] In certain embodiments, one or more additives may be chosen from citric acid; phenylethyl resorcinol; hydroxyacetophenone; Antioxidants, including but not limited to phenolic compounds such as chalcones, flavones, flavanones, flavanols, flavonols, dihydroflavonols, isoflavonoids, neoflavonoids, catechins, anthocyanins, tannins, lignans, aurones, stylbenoids, curcuminoids, alkylphenols, betacyanins, capsacinoids, hydroxybenzoketones, methoxyphenols, naphthoquinones, and phenolic terpenes, resveratrol or resveratrol glucoside, curcumin, pinoresinol, ferulic acid, hydroxytyrosol, cinnamic acid, caffeic acid, p-coumaric acid, baicalin (Scutellaria baicalensis root extract), and acid ellagic acid; hyaluronic acid and its derivatives;escin (also known as Aescin, a mixture of saponins with anti-inflammatory, vasoconstrictive, and vasoprotective effects found in Aesculus hippocastanum); niacinamide; jasmonic acid; acetic acid (2-acetyl-3-trifluoromethylphenylamino-3-methylbutyrylamino); laphloretin; acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valyl glycine; hesperidin or neohesperidin; biocellulose; vitamins and vitamin derivatives, such as vitamin C, ethyl vitamin C, vitamin E (tocopherol); aloe vera; calmosensine; inula hellenium extract; resargine; andrographis paniculate extract; ficus regligiosa bark; cucuma zeoaria extract; ursolic acid; ectonia; coptidis chinensis; pongamia pinnata extract; white hibiscus; ectoine; punica granatum; pomegranate extract; ginger root extract; ginkgo biloba extract; witch hazel; the exosome; bisabolol (levomenol); green tea extract;zinc oxide; and their combinations.
[0168] Although the aforementioned optional additives are given by way of example, it will be understood that other optional components compatible with applications Cosmetics known in the art can be used. And of course, one of the aforementioned additives can be excluded.
[0169] According to the different embodiments, the quantities of additives, for example active ingredients and other components, which may be present in the skin care composition, may range from about 0.001% to about 50%, or from about 0.5% to about 30%, or from about 1.5% to about 20%, and from about 5% to about 15%, or any appropriate combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range of these values by weight, relative to the weight of the skin care composition.
[0170] In some representative embodiments, the additives and raw material carriers / solvents may be present in the following quantities (all as percentages, (%) by weight, relative to the weight of the composition): Camellia sinensis leaf extract (0.10), citric acid (0.00672), dextrin (0.90), dimethyl isosorbide (1.80), bisabolol (0.50), boron nitride (0.75), hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate (0.20), linoleic acid (0.38), linolenic acid (0.12), niacinamide (1.00), palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 (0.00015), palmitoyl tripeptide-1 (0.0003), panthenol (0.5025), pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate (0.20), phenoxyethanol (0.70), phytosphingosine (0.00275), polysorbate 20 (0.015), sodium hydroxide (0.90).sodium lactate (0.03), sodium lauroyl lactylate (0.05), sodium pca (0.50), superoxide dismutase (0.001), tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (2.00), tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (0.095), tocopherol (0), tocopherol (-0.95), ubiquinone (0.03).
[0171] In some representative embodiments, the additives and raw material carriers / solvents may be present in the following quantities (all as percentages, (%) by weight, relative to the weight of the composition): Camellia sinensis leaf extract (0.10), citric acid (0.005), dextrin (0.90), dimethyl isosorbide (1.80), bisabolol (0.50), boron nitride (1.00), hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate (0.20), niacinamide (1.50), palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 (0.00015), palmitoyl tripeptide-1 (0.0003), panthenol (0.3750), pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate (0.10), phenoxyethanol (0.70), phytosphingosine (0.00275), polysorbate 20 (0.015), sodium hydroxide (0.90), sodium lactate (0.03), sodium lauroyl lactylate (0.05), sodium pca (0.50), superoxide dismutase (0.001), tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (0.25), tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (0.095), tocopherol (-0.55), ubiquinone (0.03).
[0172] Thus, an additive or a combination of additives may be present in the skin care composition, by weight, relative to the weight of the skin care composition, each additive or combination being present in approximately 0.001, 0.002, 0.003, 0.004, 0.005, 0.006, 0.007, 0.008, 0.009, 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0.80, 0.90, 1.0, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49 at approximately 50% by weight, including increments and intermediate ranges.
[0173] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional compound(s) in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition according to this disclosure are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the contemplated addition(s).
[0174] A person skilled in the art shall ensure that the optional additional additive(s) and / or their quantity are selected so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to this disclosure are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the contemplated addition.
[0175] Stability: Two months stable at 45°C
[0176] Embodiments of the skincare composition according to the disclosure are considered to be a stable composition despite the high amounts of active ingredients when it is demonstrated that they have maintained an aesthetically homogeneous phase, in which there are no visually perceptible signs of phase separation, that they do not exhibit a granular texture and / or do not become non-homogeneous over a period of 8 weeks in a storage temperature range of 4°C to 45°C, and do not exhibit significant changes in appearance, pH, viscosity and color.
[0177] Pleasant sensation to the touch:
[0178] Embodiments of the skincare composition according to the disclosure include a pleasant feel. By "pleasant feel" and its grammatical variations, it is understood that embodiments of the skincare composition have a texture that is pleasant to the consumer and is substantially free from a rough, sticky or tacky feeling, and from skin safety issues.
[0179] Packaging:
[0180] The skincare composition can be assembled into a kit or system comprising the skincare composition and at least one co-treatment device or device. The co-treatment device or device may include one or more of a professional device or a home-use device, or a combination thereof, the professional device being selected from the group consisting of a microdermabrasion machine, a microneedling machine, an LED light therapy device, a high-frequency machine, a radiofrequency device, an ultrasound device, a cryotherapy machine, a laser device and combinations thereof, and the home-use device being selected from the group consisting of LED masks, microdermabrasion devices, microneedling devices, ultrasonic skin scrubbers, facial steamers, IPL skin rejuvenation devices, sonic eye massagers, fractional laser devices, cold laser therapy devices, microcurrent, and combinations thereof.
[0181] Definitions and terms:
[0182] The transitional terms “comprising,” “consisting essentially of,” and “consisting of,” when used in the appended claims, in their original and amended forms, define the scope of the claims with respect to any additional elements or steps not mentioned, which are excluded from the scope of the claim(s). As used herein, the terms “comprising,” “having,” and “including” (or “comprise,” “have,” and “include”) are used in their open, non-limiting sense. The term “comprising” is intended to be inclusive or broad and does not exclude any additional, unmentioned element, process, step, or material.
[0183] The expression "consisting of" excludes any element, step or material other than those specified in the claims and, in the latter case, impurities ordinarily associated with the specified material or materials.
[0184] The expression "essentially consisting of" limits the scope of a claim to the specified elements, steps, or material(s) and to those that do not materially affect the fundamental and innovative feature(s) of the claimed invention. All the processes and materials described herein that incorporate the present invention can, in alternative embodiments, be defined more specifically by any of the transitional expressions "comprising," "essentially consisting of," and "consisting of."
[0185] As used herein, the expressions "and their mixtures", "and one of their mixtures", "and their combinations", "and one of their combinations", "or their mixtures", "or one of their mixtures", "or their combinations", and "or one of their combinations" are used interchangeably to indicate that the list of components immediately preceding the expression, such as "A, B, C, D, or their mixtures", means that the component(s) may be chosen from A, B, C, D, from A + B, from A + B + C, from A + D, from A + C + D, etc., without limitation as to their variations. Thus, the components may be used individually or in any of their combinations.
[0186] For the purposes of this disclosure, it should be noted that, for the sake of brevity, some of the quantitative expressions given herein are not qualified with the term "about". It is understood that, whether the term "about" is used explicitly or implicitly, each quantity given herein is intended to refer to to the given true value, and it is also intended to refer to the approximation of that given value that would be reasonably deduced by a person skilled in the art, including approximations due to experimental and / or measurement conditions for that given value. All ranges and quantities indicated herein are intended to include subranges and quantities using any disclosed point as a bound.
[0187] A given range of "about 3% to 7%" is understood to have its bounds at both 3% and 7% modified by the term "about". The term "about" is used here to indicate a difference of up to + / - 10% from the stated number, such as + / - 9%, + / - 8%, + / - 7%, + / - 6%, + / - 5%, + / - 4%, + / - 3%, + / - 2%, or + / - 1%. Similarly, all bounds of the ranges are understood to be disclosed individually, such that, for example, a range of 1:2 to 2:1 is understood to disclose a ratio of both 1:2 and 2:1.
[0188] “Active substance”, as used herein in relation to the percentage of a The quantity of an ingredient or raw material refers to 100% of the ingredient's or raw material's activity. All quantities stated here are relative to the amount of active ingredient, unless otherwise indicated.
[0189] All percentages, parts and ratios herein are based on the total weight of embodiments of the skincare composition of this disclosure, unless otherwise stated.
[0190] As used herein, the term "surfactants", as well as any specifically identified surfactant, includes salts of surfactants, even if not explicitly stated.
[0191] As used herein, the term "synthetic" means a material that is not of natural origin. The term "natural" and the expressions "of natural source" and "of natural origin" mean a material of natural origin, such as derived from plants, which also cannot be subsequently altered chemically or physically. "Of plant origin" means that the material comes from a plant.
[0192] Unless expressly stated otherwise, no process described herein is intended to be interpreted as requiring that its steps be performed in a specific order. Accordingly, where a process claim does not expressly state an order to be followed by its steps, or where it is not specifically stated in the claims or descriptions that the steps must be limited to a specific order, no particular order is to be inferred therefrom.
[0193] As used herein, the expressions "substantially free" or "essentially free" mean that the specific material may be present in small quantities that do not materially affect the basic and innovative characteristics of the embodiments of the skincare composition according to the disclosure, or that the material may be absent. For example, there may be less 2% by weight of a specific substance added to a composition, relative to the total weight of the compositions (provided that an amount less than 2% by weight does not materially affect the fundamental and novel characteristics of the skincare compositions as disclosed). Similarly, the compositions may include less than 2%, less than 1.5%, less than 1%, less than 0.5%, less than 0.1%, less than 0.05%, or less than 0.01%, or not include any (0%) of the specified substance. Furthermore, all components positively presented in this disclosure may be negatively excluded from the claims; for example, a claimed composition may be "free," "substantially free," or "substantially free" of one or more components that are positively presented in this disclosure.The expression "substantially free" or "essentially free" as used here can also mean that the specific material is not added to the composition, but that it may still be present in a raw material included in the composition. Examples
[0194] The following examples are intended to be non-limiting and explanatory only. In the examples, quantities are expressed as a percentage by weight (% by weight) of active materials, relative to the total weight of the composition. Example 1: Raw materials
[0195] The percentages of each ingredient as given by way of example in the following composition examples are indicated in quantity of active ingredients, the raw materials containing the active ingredient being able to be present in an amount equal to the amount of active ingredient, or if the raw material has a concentration of active ingredient less than 100%, then the cosmetic composition includes the raw material which includes the active ingredient and a suitable solvent, the concentration of active ingredient in the raw material being indicated here below in Table 1. When referring to the inventive and comparative examples, it should be assumed that each ingredient as indicated in the compositions given by way of example is the final amount of active ingredient unless otherwise indicated, and not the amount of raw material which may contain less than 100% of active ingredient.
[0196] [Table 1] TABLE 1: Selecting raw materials (including raw materials with active ingredient concentrations below 100%) MP ~% of active ingredients in the MP Lactic acid 90% Palmitoyl tripeptide-1 <10% Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 <10% Hydrodypinacolone retinoate 10% Eperua falcata bark extract 10% CERAMIDE EOP <10% CERAMIDE NP <10% CERAMIDE AP <10%
[0197] Example 2: Examples of embodiments of the inventive composition
[0198] Some examples of embodiments of the inventive skin care composition according to the disclosure include hydroxypinacolone retinoate, one of lactic acid or gluconolactone, and dextrin (and) Eperua Falcata bark extract.
[0199] In some embodiments, the composition also includes at least one surfactant selected from the group consisting of glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate, steareth-2, steareth-20, methyl gluceth-20, glyceryl stearate, and combinations thereof, at least one fatty compound selected from the group consisting of caprylic / capric triglyceride, butyrospermum parkii butter, glycol palmitate, cholesterol, squalane, dicaprylyl ether, bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytostearyl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate, C15-19 alkane, dimethicone, dimethicone (and) polysilicone-11, sodium lauroyl lactylate (and) ceramide NP (and) ceramide AP (and) phytosphingosine (and) cholesterol (and) xanthan gum (and) carbomer (and) ceramide EOP, and their combinations, at least one polymer selected from the group consisting of xanthan gum, C10-30 alkyl polyacrylate, polyacrylate-6 crosslinked polymer, acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer,sclerotium gum, acacia gum, carbomer, acrylate crosslinked polymer, hydroxyethyl cellulose, cellulose, and combinations thereof, at least one additive that is a skin active selected from the group consisting of niacinamide, tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, panthenol, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, linoleic acid (and) linolenic acid, superoxide dismutase, ubiquinone, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, palmitoyl tripeptide-1 (and) palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, bisabolol, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, camellia sinensis leaf extract, boron nitride, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, hydroxide, sodium, sodium PCA, phenoxyethanol and their combinations, and water, glycerin, propanediol and butylene glycol.
[0200] [Table 2] TABLE 2: Examples of inventive compositions Ingredients Range % by weight* Hydroxypinacolone retinoate 0.01% - 0.5% Lactic acid or gluconolactone 1% - 5% Eperua falcata bark extract 0.01% - 0.5% Additives / carriers and solvents (e.g., niacinamide, tocopheryl acetate, tocopherol, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, linoleic acid (and) linolenic acid, superoxide dismutase, ubiquinone, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, palmitoyl tripeptide-1 (and) palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, bisabolol, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, camellia sinensis leaf extract, boron nitride, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, sodium hydroxide, PCA, phen oxyethanol) 0% - 20% Fatty compound (e.g., caprylic / capric triglyceride, butyrospermum parkii butter, glycol palmitate, cholesterol, squalane, dicaprylyl ether, bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytostearyl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate, C15-19 alkane, dimethicone, dimethicone (and) polysilicone-11,Sodium lauroyl lactylate (and) ceramide NP (and) ceramide AP (and) phytosphingosine (and) cholesterol (and) xanthan gum (and) carbomer (and) ceramide EOP) 0.1% - 20% Thickener (e.g., xanthan gum, C10-30 alkyl polyacrylate, polyacrylate-6 crosslinked polymer, acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer) 0.01% - 10% Surfactant (e.g., glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate, steareth-2, steareth-20, methyl gluceth-20, glyceryl stearate) 0.1% - 15% Glycerin 0% - 20% Propanediol 0% - 10% Butylene glycol 0% - 10% Water 5% - 90%
[0201] * each ingredient or combination
[0202] Two inventive compositions according to the general formulas presented in Table 2 were prepared according to the following inventive embodiments presented below.
[0203] Inventive composition 1 includes hydroxypinacolone retinoate (0.20), lactic acid (2.70), Eperua falcata bark extract (0.10); C10-30 acrylate / alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymers, xanthan gum, C10-30 alkyl polyacrylate, acrylate-6 crosslinked polymer, carbomer (-1.1%); steareth-2, steareth-20, methylgluceth-20, glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate (-5.5%); glycerin, propanediol, butylene glycol, ethylhexylglycerin (-8%); bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytostearyl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate, butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter, C15-19 alkane, ceramide ap, ceramide eop, ceramide np, cholesterol, caprylic / capric triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether, dimethicone, dimethicone, glycine soja (soybean) oil, glycol palmitate, squalane, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, polysilicone-11 (-17.5%);Camellia sinensis leaf extract, citric acid, dextrin, dimethyl isosorbide, bisabolol, boron nitride, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, niacinamide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, panthenol, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, phenoxyethanol, phytosphingosine, polysorbate 20, sodium hydroxide, sodium lactate, sodium lauroyl lactylate, sodium PCA, superoxide dismutase, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, ubiquinone (-11.5%); and water (-54%), all quantities being percentages (%) by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
[0204] The inventive composition 2 includes hydroxypinacolone retinoate (0.20), lactic acid (2.70), Eperua falcata bark extract (0.10); C10-30 acrylate / alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymers, xanthan gum, C10-30 alkyl polyacrylate, acrylate-6 crosslinked polymer, carbomer (-1.5%); steareth-2, steareth-20, methylgluceth-20, glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate (-8.5%); glycerin, propanediol, butylene glycol, ethylhexylglycerin (-10%); bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytostearyl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate, butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter, C15-19 alkane, ceramide ap, ceramide eop, ceramide np, cholesterol, caprylic / capric triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether, dimethicone, dimethicone, glycine soja (soybean) oil, glycol palmitate, squalane, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, polysilicone-11 (-8.5%);Camellia sinensis leaf extract, citric acid, dextrin, dimethyl isosorbide, bisabolol, boron nitride, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, niacinamide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, panthenol, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, phenoxyethanol, phytosphingosine, polysorbate 20, sodium hydroxide, sodium lactate, sodium lauroyl lactylate, sodium PCA, superoxide dismutase, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate; tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, ubiquinone (~9.5%); and water (~60%), all quantities being percentages (%) by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
[0205] Embodiments of the skincare composition according to the disclosure are considered stable when evaluated for an aesthetically pleasing texture upon application and when they do not exhibit a rough, sticky, or tacky feeling when applied to the skin. The stability of the formulation is evident when supplied as an emulsion, in which the composition does not separate or release oily droplets, and when supplied in any form, does not exhibit precipitation or separation into discernible layers.
[0206] Embodiments of the skincare composition according to the disclosure are considered to be a stable composition despite the high amounts of active ingredients when it is demonstrated that they have maintained an aesthetically homogeneous phase, in which there are no visually perceptible signs of phase separation, that they do not exhibit a granular texture and / or do not become non-homogeneous over a period of 8 weeks in a storage temperature range of 4°C to 45°C, and do not exhibit significant changes in appearance, pH, viscosity and color. Example 3: Cellular studies
[0207] Experiment 1: Cell proliferation and genetic analysis of 2D human keratinocytes in vitro Justification and results
[0208] Retinols regenerate the epidermis by stimulating keratinocyte proliferation, leading to the replacement or renewal of existing cells. Previous genetic analysis indicates that this is primarily achieved through the upregulation of cell proliferation and migration genes, concomitant with the downregulation of cell adhesion, the epidermal barrier, and differentiation genes (see [Fig. 1A]). Given the rapid turnover and shedding of the epithelium, a common side effect of retinols is inflammation. The inventors characterized the genetic signature of HPR and LA associated with the anti-inflammatory molecule Eperuline to determine whether these novel combinations exhibited a retinol-based signature with reduced inflammatory markers.
[0209] With reference to the drawings, Figure 1 demonstrates that HPR-LA-Eperuline combinations stimulate cell proliferation via a retinol-like genetic signature with anti-inflammatory properties in 2D human keratinocytes in vitro (the Hydroxypinacolone retinoate is referred to here as "HPR", lactic acid is referred to as "LA", and Eperua falcata bark extract is referred to here as "Eperuline").
[0210] (A) Diagram representing epidermal renewal, which is characterized by cell division, renewal, and regeneration. Cell renewal is associated with increased cell proliferation and migration and decreased cell-cell adhesion and markers of mature cell differentiation. Inflammation due to rapid skin renewal occurs.
[0211] (B) Diagram of the in vitro pipeline.
[0212] (C)MTT proliferation test; red frames indicate HPR and LA concentrations that stimulate cell division.
[0213] (D) Unbiased ontology genetic pathway analysis of DEG identified by RNA sequencing between keratinocytes treated with HPR (0.05%)-LA (0.01%) and eperulin (0.01%; 0.05% and 0.1% not shown) versus DMSO controls (0.1%).
[0214] (EE”) Shared gene expression with DEGS z-score between each treatment group. Red boxes and asterisks indicate a decrease in inflammatory markers with increasing concentrations of eperulin. Green boxes indicate that HPR with eperulin contains signatures similar to HPR alone.
[0215] The inventors evaluated whether HPR associated with alpha-hydroxy acids (AH) or polyhydroxy acids (PH) stimulated cell proliferation with minimal cell toxicity.
[0216] Human keratinocytes were seeded and cultured overnight prior to a 48-hour treatment (see [Fig.1A]' and Table 3) with increasing concentrations of HPR (0.01%, 0.02%, 0.05% and 0.1%) and lactic acid or gluconolactone (0.01%, 0.05%, 0.1%, 0.5%, 1%).
[0217] [Table 3] TABLE 3: Concentrations of raw materials used in 2D keratinocytes in vitro Plate 1 1 2 3 4 A DMSO 0.1% HPR 0.02% HPR 0.05% B DMSO 0.1% HPR 0.02% HPR 0.05% C DMSO 0.1% HPR 0.02% HPR 0.05% Plate 0.01 A H2% LA 2 +0.01% LA HPR 0.05% +0.01% LA HP R 0.02%+LA 0.01% +0.01%EB LA 0.01% HPR 0.02% +0.01% LA HPR 0.05% +0.01% LA HP R 0.02%+EC + 0.02%+LA 0.02% +0.01% LA HPR 0.05% +0.01% LA HP R 0.02%+LA 0.01% +0.01%E Plate 3 1 2 3 4 A GL 0.01% HPR 0.02% +0.01% GLA% GPR + 0.02% R 0.01% +0.05%EB GL 0.01% HPR 0.02% +0.01% GL HPR 0.05% +0.01% GL HP R 0.02%+LA 0.01% +0.05%EC GL 0.01% HPR1% GPR 0.002% GL 0.01% HPR 0.002% GL HP R 0.02%+LA 0.01% +0.05%E Plate 4 1 2 3 4 A HPR 0.02%+LA 0.01% +0.1 %E HPR 0.02%+GL 0.01% +0.01%E HPR 0.02%1+%GL 0.02%+GL 0.01% +0.1 %EB HPR 0.02%+LA 0.01% +0.1 %E HPR 0.02%+GL 0.01% +0.01%E HPR 0.02%+GL 0.01% +0.01 R3 % %L %E %EC HPR 0.02%+LA 0.01% +0.1 %E HPR 0.02%+GL 0.01% +0.01%E HPR 0.02%+GL 0.01% +0.05 %E HP R 0.02%+GL 0.04 % 1 Plate +2.1 A HPR 0.05%+LA 0.01% +0.05%E HPR 0.05%+LA 0.01% +0.1 %E HPR 0.05%+GL 0.01% +0.05 %E HP R 0.05 %+GL 0.0% 0.01% H0.0+0.1 . +0.05%E HPR 0.05%+LA 0.01% +0.1 %E HPR 0.05%+GL 0.01% +0.05 %E HP R 0.05 %+GL 0.01% +0.01 %EC HPR 0.05%+E + 0% LA 0.01 0.01% +0.1 %E HPR 0.05%+GL 0.01% +0.05 %E HP R 0.05 %+GL 0.01% +0.1 %E Plate 6 1 2 3 4 A HPR 0.05%+G PR 0%01% +0%. +0.01%EB HPR 0.05%+LA 0.01% +0.01%E HPR 0.05%+GL 0.01% +0.01%EC HPR 0.05%+LA 0.01% +0.01%E HPR 0.05%+GL 0.01% +0
[0218] MTT cell proliferation assays showed that, compared to DMSO controls (0.1% DMSO), human keratinocytes exhibited an increased cell count after treatment at certain concentration ranges with HPR (0.02% and 0.05%) combined with LA (0.01%, 0.05%, and 0.1%), whereas this was not the case with HPR combined with gluconolactone (see [Fig. 1C]; red boxes). These data suggest that HPR combined with LA stimulates cell proliferation, while HPR combined with gluconolactone diminishes this effect in human keratinocytes.
[0219] The inventors treated human keratinocytes with HPR combined with LA at previously identified concentrations that stimulated cell proliferation (HPR 0.05% and LA 0.01%), with increasing concentrations of eperulin (0.01%, 0.05%, 0.1%). After 48 hours of treatment, the inventors performed RNA sequencing and identified differentially expressed genes (DEGs) between each treatment and control cell. Analysis of the DEG's ontology genetic pathway showed that HPR and LA associated with eperulin contained a retinol-based genetic signature, as genes with terms associated with inflammation and cell migration were upregulated (see [Fig.1D]), while genes associated with epidermal differentiation, adhesion, and barrier (see [Fig.1D] [Keratinization, comification, epidermal development, adhesion]) were downregulated.It is striking that the addition of eperulin in combination with HPR-Lactic coupling led to the downregulation of key inflammatory genes in human keratinocytes, y. including IL-1A, IL-1B, and 1TL-23A ([Fig. 1E]; *) in a dose-dependent manner while preserving the HPR genetic signature (see [Fig. 1E]',E"; green boxes). Thus, unbiased analysis of RNA sequencing data supports the HPR-LA-Eperuline combination as an effective epidermal renewal formula with anti-inflammatory properties. Experimental Methods 1
[0220] Human keratinocytes (HaCat: (AddexBio, cat#T0020001, lot#0003798)) were applied to 160,000 cells / well in a 12-well plate and allowed to fix overnight in 1 ml of Dulbecco's Modified Eagle Medium (DMEM High Glucose, Gibco) containing fetal bovine serum (10%) and penicillin streptomycin (1%, Gibco, 1570063) in an incubator at 37 °C (ThermoFisher Scientific, FormaSteri Cycle il60). The following day, the cells were treated with 1 ml of the test compound (Table 3) dissolved in DMEM for 48 hours. The MTT assay kit (Abcam ab 211091) was then used to assess cell count and toxicity. Each treatment was replicated 3 times.
[0221] For the RNA sequencing experiments, the cells were processed as described above. Forty-eight hours after processing, the culture medium was removed, followed by a 1 x 5 minute wash with IX PBS at 37°C. The cells were then trypsinized (Gibco, No. 15050057) for 5 minutes at 37°C and transferred to a 1.5 mL Eppendorf tube, lysed in 350 µL of RLT buffer (Qiagen Cat. No. 79216), and stored in 1% BME at -80°C (2-Mercaptothenol, ThermoFisher Scientific No. 21985023). The cell lysates were then processed by paired-end bulk RNA sequencing.
[0222] For bulk RNA sequencing, cell lysates from three biological replicates corresponding to each control or treatment group were combined, and then the RNA was extracted with TRIzol reagent (Invitrogen, Thermo Fisher Scientific, Inc.) according to the manufacturer's standard protocols. Each sample underwent library construction and assembly by first treating the samples with DNase to remove genomic DNA fragments, and then isolating poly-A mRNA transcripts, which were subsequently reverse-transcribed cDNA libraries. The libraries underwent PCR amplification, followed by final 150-pair sequencing on a HISEQ4000 platform. The raw sequencing reads were filtered and aligned to the human reference genome (GCF_000001405,40_GRCh38.pl4) using the HISAT and Bowtie software packages.Differentially expressed genes were identified using a Poisson distribution between each treatment group and the control DMSO. Gene ontology analysis was performed using ShinyGOvO,77 software, with z- gene expression. The score was calculated using custom Matlab scripts. Heatmaps were generated using Prism software.
[0223] Experiment 2: Ex vivo anti-inflammatory analysis of human skin
[0224] Inflammatory conditions of human skin can be modeled in a laboratory setting by ex vivo systemic culture of human skin with a colony-stimulating cocktail (CSC). This has been reported to lead to epidermal disturbance and immune cell infiltration similar to inflammatory skin conditions such as chronic inflammation, atopic dermatitis, and psoriasis (see [Fig. 2A], A'). Thus, the inventors sought to determine whether eperulin reduced inflammation in models of sensitive skin conditions. Furthermore, characterizing the effects of HPR, LA, and eperulin in ex vivo human skin has greater physiological relevance than in vitro models alone.
[0225] Looking again at the drawings, Figure 2 provides data demonstrating that HPR-Eperuline in CSC-stimulated ex vivo human skin reduces histological signs of inflammation and secreted inflammatory cytokines.
[0226] (A-A1) Schematic and diagrams of the characteristics of skin inflammation and of the nuclear morphology of infiltrating immune cells (yellow boxes).
[0227] (B) Experimental design scheme.
[0228] (C) H&E histological sections of ex vivo human skin (5 µm thick). The Black frames indicate epidermal spongiosis; yellow arrows indicate atypical nuclei corresponding to neutrophils / infiltrating immune cells as shown in Figure A'; the green arrow indicates parakeratosis.
[0229] (DD") Quantification of secreted IL-1A and IL-23. Each data point indicates n = 3 biological replicates per assay / batch. * indicates the importance of the p-value < 0.05, ** indicates the importance of the p-value < 0.01, *** indicates the importance of the p-value < 0.001, **** indicates the importance of the p-value < 0.01.
[0230] Looking again at the drawings, Figure 3 provides data demonstrating that HPR-LA-Eperuline in ex vivo CSC-stimulated human skin reduces histological signs of inflammation and secreted inflammatory cytokines.
[0231] (A) H&E histological sections of ex-vivo human skin (5 sq m thickness). The Black frames indicate epidermal spongiosis; yellow arrows indicate atypical nuclei corresponding to neutrophils / infiltrating immune cells as shown in Figure A'; the green arrow indicates parakeratosis.
[0232] (B,B') Quantification of secreted IL-1A and IL-23. Each data point indicates n = 3 biological replicates per assay / batch. * indicates the importance of the p-value < 0.05, ** indicates the importance of the p-value < 0.01, *** indicates the importance of the p-value < 0.001, **** indicates the importance of the p-value < 0.01.
[0233] Ex vivo human skin was cultured with or without CSCs and topically treated with HPR, HPR-LA, HPR-Eperuline and HPR-LA-Eperuline for 5 consecutive days (see [Fig.2B]; see Table 4 for concentrations).
[0234] [Table 4] TABLE 4: Concentrations of raw materials used in ex vivo 3D human skin Control HPR LA Eperuline 0.01% EtOH 0.01% 3% 1% 3%
[0235] Histological analysis showed that, compared to controls, CSC-stimulated human skin exhibited characteristic signs of inflammation, including epidermal spongiosis ([Fig. 2A], C; boxes), which was exacerbated by topical HPR treatments (see [Fig. 2C]; boxes). Consistent with the increased inflammation following HPR treatments, the inventors identified immune cell infiltration via nuclear morphology (see [Fig. 1A]; yellow boxes, see [Fig. 2C]; yellow arrow), parakeratosis (see [Fig. 2C]; green arrow), and a significant increase in secreted inflammatory cytokines, such as IL-1A and IL-23 (see [Fig. 2D]-D).
[0236] It is striking that the addition of eperulin with HPR or HPR-lactic acid led to a reduction in histological signs of inflammation such as epidermal spongiosis and immune infiltration (see [Fig. 2C], 3A), accompanied by a significant reduction in secreted 1TL-1A and 1TL-23 (see [Fig. 2D], D', [Fig. 3B], B'). Both 1TL-1A and 1TL-23 were found to be downregulated by transcription in previous RNA sequencing experiments following eperulin treatment and represent inflammatory cytokines associated with skin sensitization and chronic inflammation. Thus, these collective results suggest that combinations of HPR with AH acids and / or eperulin maintain the benefits of retinol-based epidermal renewal while reducing inflammation and could be used to treat age-related skin decline in sensitized skin populations. Experimental Methods 2
[0237] Fresh human skin ex vivo was obtained by informed consent of the donor following abdominoplasty procedures. The tissues were obtained by BioIVT (Westbury, NY, USA) according to an approved IRB protocol and sent to a Level 2B SC research laboratory within 24 hours of the procedure where the experiments were performed. All experiments were conducted in accordance with applicable guidelines and regulations. Donors included a 38-year-old African American woman, a 54-year-old Hispanic woman, and a 63-year-old Caucasian woman. The tissues ex In vivo samples were prepared by excision of subcutaneous fat followed by punch biopsies using a disposable 12 mm skin biopsy punch (Fisher Scientific, NC9253254) and placed in 24-well Transwell plates with permeable polyester membrane inserts (Fisher Scientific, 07-200-161). At least three biopsies were performed for each pathology.
[0238] Skin tissues were divided into groups of three and placed in 24-well Transwell plates. Colony-stimulating factor (500x cell stimulation cocktail (50-930-5)) was diluted to a 2X concentration in the culture medium, and 650 ql were added to the well on the first day. Topical treatments were performed daily by pipetting 5 µl of treatment onto the tissue using a q tip, spreading the treatment over the tissue, and allowing it to be absorbed at room temperature for 30 minutes. Baseline media without stimulants served as the control group. Tissues were replenished with fresh media containing the stimulant on days 1 and 3. On days 1, 3, and 5, the culture supernatant was collected and aliquoted, and the tissues were bisected and fixed in 10% neutral buffered formalin (Fisher Scientific 22-126-347) for 3 h, then transferred to 70% ethanol for storage until histology.
[0239] Skin tissues were processed into formalin-fixed, paraffin-embedded (FFPE) blocks according to a standard protocol (Histowiz, Inc., Long Island City, NY, USA) prior to histological staining. Hematoxylin and eosin (H&E) staining was used as an analytical tool to clarify the impact on epidermal tissue structure using standard protocols.
[0240] Tissue culture supernatant was collected at the end of the cultures to assess the secretion of several cytokines, chemokines, and growth factors. A 13-plex inflammatory cytokine and a 10-plex ProcartaPlex angiogenesis panel were used in our experiments (ThermoFisher, Waltham, MA, USA). Sample preparation was performed according to the manufacturer's protocol and scanned using a Luminex MAGPIX instrument system (ThermoFisher). The supernatant from each tissue was analyzed in duplicate wells with at least two tissues of each condition for each donor and with at least three donors.
[0241] The data were evaluated using a two-way ANOVA with multiple comparisons tests. Differences between groups were compared using GraphPad Prism 9.0.1 (GraphPad Software Inc., La Jolla, CA, USA).
[0242] Although the invention has been described with reference to a preferred embodiment, a person skilled in the art will understand that various changes can be made and that equivalents can replace elements without departing from the scope of the invention. Furthermore, numerous modifications can be made to adapt a particular situation or subject matter to the teachings of the invention. without departing from its essential scope. Therefore, the invention is not limited to the particular embodiment disclosed as being the best embodiment envisaged for implementing the present invention, but the invention will include all embodiments falling within the scope of the attached claims.
Claims
Demands
1. A skin care composition comprising a plurality of agents that include at least one retinol derivative and at least one bark extract, the plurality of agents providing reduced retinol-associated inflammation compared to a composition that includes at least one retinol and is devoid of at least one bark extract, wherein the plurality of agents is selected from the group consisting of: i. at least one retinol derivative comprising hydroxypinacolone retinoate and at least one bark extract; ii. at least one retinol derivative comprising hydroxypinacolone retinoate, at least one bark extract, and at least one hydroxy acid; and iii.at least one retinol derivative comprising hydroxypinacolone retinoate, at least one bark extract comprising Eperua falcata bark extract, and at least one hydroxy acid comprising lactic acid; wherein the composition confers one or more of the following: increased cutaneous cell proliferation, enhanced cell migration, enhanced cell differentiation, or a combination thereof; and wherein the application of the plurality of agents confers to cutaneous cells and tissues an anti-inflammatory retinol genetic signature, as demonstrated by bulk RNA sequencing of human keratinocytes, and restores epidermal disruption and reduces the inflammatory cytokines IL-1A and IL-23 in ex vivo models of chronic human skin inflammation.
2. A method for minimizing the signs of skin aging, the method comprising: (A) the provision of a plurality of agents as defined in claim 1 which include at least one retinol derivative and at least one bark extract, the plurality of agents providing reduced retinol-associated inflammation compared to a composition which includes at least one retinol and is devoid of at least one bark extract, wherein the plurality of agents is selected from the group consisting of: i. at least one retinol derivative comprising hydroxypinacolone retinoate and at least one bark extract; ii. at least one retinol derivative comprising hydroxypinacolone retinoate, at least one bark extract and at least one hydroxy acid; and iii.at least one retinol derivative comprising hydroxypinacolone retinoate, at least one bark extract comprising Eperua falcata bark extract, and at least one hydroxy acid comprising lactic acid; wherein the composition confers one or more of the following: (B) increased cutaneous cell proliferation, enhanced cell migration, enhanced cell differentiation, or a combination thereof; (C) application of the composition to the skin; and (D) following a regimen of repeated application of the composition for a period of at least 1 day, wherein the application of the plurality of agents confers to cutaneous cells and tissues an anti-inflammatory retinol genetic signature, as demonstrated by bulk RNA sequencing of human keratinocytes, and restores epidermal disruption and reduces the inflammatory cytokines IL-1A and IL-23 in ex-vivo human skin models of chronic inflammation.
3. A method according to claim 2, wherein the method includes providing one or more of a professional device or a home-use device, or a combination thereof, the professional device being selected from the group consisting of a microdermabrasion machine, a microneedling machine, an LED light therapy device, a high-frequency machine, a radiofrequency device, an ultrasound device, a cryotherapy machine, a laser device and combinations thereof, and the home-use device being selected from the group consisting of LED masks, microdermabrasion devices, microneedling devices, ultrasonic skin scrubbers, facial steamers, IPL skin rejuvenation devices, sonic eye massagers, fractional laser devices, cold laser therapy devices, microcurrent devices, and combinations thereof.
4. Skin care composition, comprising: an anti-aging system, comprising: i. at least one retinol derivative comprising hydroxypinacolone retinoate and optionally at least one retinol derivative selected from the group consisting of retinol, retinyl acetate, retinyl palmitate, retinyl propionate, retinyl retinoate, bakuchiol and combinations thereof; at least one retinol derivative is present from about 0.001% to about 3.0%; ii. at least one hydroxy acid selected from the group consisting of lactic acid, gluconolactone, glycolic acid, mandelic acid, salicylic acid and combinations thereof; at least one hydroxy acid is present from about 0.001% to about 5.0%; and iii.at least one bark extract selected from the group consisting of Eperua falcata bark extract, pine bark extract (Pinus Pinaster bark / bud extract), Ficus regligiosa bark, witch hazel extract, and combinations thereof, at least one bark extract is present from about 0.0001% to about 70%, all amounts being by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
5. Composition according to claim 4, comprising: a carrier system comprising: i. at least one surfactant; ii. at least one fatty compound; and iii. at least one polymer thickener.
6. Composition according to claim 5, wherein at least one surfactant is selected from the group consisting of glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate, steareth-2, steareth-20, methyl gluceth-20, glyceryl stearate, and combinations thereof, and at least one fatty compound is selected from the group consisting of caprylic / capric triglyceride, butyrospermum parkii butter, glycol palmitate, cholesterol, squalane, dicaprylyl ether, bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytostearyl dimer, dilinoleyl dimer, dilinoleate, C15-19 alkane, dimethicone, dimethicone (and) polysilicone-11, sodium lauroyl lactylate (and) ceramide NP (and) ceramide AP (and) phytosphingosine (and) cholesterol (and) xanthan gum (and) carbomer (and) ceramide EOP and their combinations, and at least one polymer thickener is selected from the group consisting of xanthan gum, C10-30 alkyl polyacrylate, polyacrylate-6 crosslinked polymer, acrylates / acrylate crosslinked polymer C10-30 alkyl, sclerotium gum, acacia gum, carbomer, acrylate crosslinked polymer, hydroxyethylcellulose, cellulose and their combinations.
7. Composition according to claim 5, the carrier system comprising: i. water, a water-based solvent or a combination thereof; and ii. optionally, one or more additives selected from the group consisting of niacinamide, tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, tocopherol, panthenol, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, linoleic acid (and) linolenic acid, superoxide dismutase, ubiquinone, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, palmitoyl tripeptide-1 (and) palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, bisabolol, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, camellia sinensis leaf extract, boron nitride, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, sodium hydroxide, sodium PCA, phenoxyethanol and combinations thereof.
8. Skin care composition, comprising: an anti-aging system, comprising: i. at least one retinol derivative comprising hydroxypinacolone retinoate and optionally at least one retinol derivative selected from the group consisting of retinol, retinyl acetate, retinyl palmitate, retinyl propionate, retinyl retinoate, bakuchiol and combinations thereof; ii. at least one hydroxy acid selected from the group consisting of lactic acid, gluconolactone, glycolic acid, mandelic acid, salicylic acid and combinations thereof; and iii. at least one bark extract is selected from the group consisting of Eperua falcata bark extract, pine bark extract (Pinus Pinaster bark / bud extract), Ficus regligiosa bark, Virginia hazel extract, and combinations thereof; and a carrier system comprising: i.ii. at least one surfactant is selected from the group consisting of glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate, steareth-2, steareth-20, methyl gluceth-20, glyceryl stearate, and their combinations; ii. at least one fatty compound is selected from the group consisting of caprylic / capric triglyceride, butyrospermum parkii butter,. glycol palmitate, cholesterol, squalane, dicaprylyl ether, bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytostearyl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate, C15-19 alkane, dimethicone, dimethicone (and) polysilicone-11, sodium lauroyl lactylate (and) ceramide NP (and) ceramide AP (and) phytosphingosine (and) cholesterol (and) xanthan gum (and) carbomer (and) ceramide EOP, and their combinations; and iii. At least one polymer thickener is selected from the group consisting of xanthan gum, C10-30 alkyl polyacrylate, polyacrylate-6 crosslinked polymer, acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, sclerotium gum, acacia gum, carbomer, acrylate crosslinked polymer, hydroxyethylcellulose, cellulose and their combinations.
9. Composition according to claim 8, comprising at least one additive selected from the group consisting of niacinamide, tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, tocopherol, panthenol, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, linoleic acid (and) linolenic acid, superoxide dismutase, ubiquinone, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, palmitoyl tripeptide-1 (and) palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, bisabolol, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, camellia sinensis leaf extract, boron nitride, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, sodium hydroxide, sodium PCA, phenoxyethanol, and combinations thereof.
10. Composition according to claim 8, wherein, in the carrier system: i. the composition comprises water present in a range of about 25% to about 75%; ii. at least one surfactant is present in a range of about 0.5% to about 3%; iii. at least one fatty compound is present in a range of about 0.1% to about 20%; and iv. at least one polymer thickener is present in a range of about 0.01% to about 10%, all amounts being by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.