Emulsion cosmetic
Patent Information
- Application Number
- JP2022163434
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2022-10-11
- Publication Date
- 2025-09-30
AI Technical Summary
Emulsified cosmetics containing powder, polysaccharide-based thickeners, and dimer acid esters often feel heavy, provide poor coverage, and have a powdery finish.
A specific formulation combining a powder, polysaccharide thickener, dimer acid ester, and pasty hydrocarbon oil with defined mass ratios, enhancing the blendability, coverage, and moisturizing gloss of the cosmetic.
The composition provides a fresh and light application feel, excellent skin blendability, high coverage, and a moisturized glossy appearance.
Abstract
Description
[Technical field]
[0001] The present invention relates to an emulsion cosmetic. [Background technology]
[0002] 2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, in order to improve emulsion stability in emulsion cosmetics, studies have been conducted on emulsion cosmetics that use thickeners and gelling agents and have excellent usability. For example, Patent Document 1 describes that an oil-in-water emulsion makeup cosmetic containing a crosspolymer containing 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid or a salt thereof, (meth)acrylic acid and / or an ester thereof, and N,N-dimethylacrylamide as structural units, a polysaccharide thickener, and a powder in specific ratios, has excellent storage stability and feel, and is excellent in adhesion, non-stickiness, refreshing feel, makeup durability, gloss, moisturizing properties, safety, and handleability during production. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]
[0003] [Patent Document 1] JP 2012-241006 A Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]
[0004] Emulsion cosmetics containing powder, polysaccharide thickeners, and dimer acid esters have problems such as a heavy feel when used, difficulty in achieving good coverage, and a powdery finish. [Means for solving the problem]
[0005] The present inventors have discovered that by combining a specific amount of a dimer acid ester and a paste-like hydrocarbon oil with an emulsion cosmetic containing a powder and a polysaccharide-based thickener, a fresh, light feel during application can be obtained, the cosmetic blends well with the skin after application, has excellent covering power, and leaves the skin with a moist, lustrous appearance.
[0006] The present invention comprises the following components (A), (B), (C) and (D): (A) Powder 2% by mass or more, (B) a polysaccharide thickener, (C) 0.01 to 4 mass% of a dimer acid ester, (D) 0.1 to 4 mass% of a hydrocarbon oil having a melting point of 38 to 60°C wherein the mass ratio (A) / ((C)+(D)) of component (A) to the total amount of components (C) and (D) is 2 to 40. Effect of the Invention
[0007] The emulsion cosmetic of the present invention provides a fresh and light feeling during application, blends well with the skin after application, has excellent covering power, and imparts a moist, lustrous feel to the skin. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS
[0008] The powder of component (A) used in the present invention is not limited as long as it is one that is commonly used in cosmetics, and examples of the powder that can be used include extender pigments, color pigments, and luster pigments. Examples of the extender pigment include inorganic pigments such as silicic acid, silicic anhydride, magnesium silicate, talc, sericite, boron nitride, mica, synthetic mica, glass flakes, synthetic phlogopite, kaolin, clay, bentonite, bismuth oxychloride, zirconium oxide, magnesium oxide, aluminum oxide, calcium sulfate, barium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, aluminum silicate, magnesium silicate, silica, alumina, and composite pigments thereof. Specific examples of composite pigments include titanium oxide-coated mica, zinc oxide-coated mica, titanium oxide-zinc oxide-coated mica, iron oxide-coated mica, iron oxide-coated mica titanium, barium sulfate-titanium oxide-coated mica, iron oxide-coated synthetic phlogopite, chromium oxide-coated mica titanium, titanium oxide-coated glass powder, iron oxide-coated glass powder, titanium oxide-containing glass powder, and iron oxide-containing glass powder.
[0009] Examples of color pigments include metal oxides such as titanium oxide, zinc oxide, yellow iron oxide, red iron oxide, black iron oxide, Prussian blue, ultramarine blue, chromium oxide, and chromium hydroxide; metal complexes such as manganese violet and cobalt titanate; inorganic pigments such as carbon black; synthetic organic pigments such as Red No. 3, Red No. 104, Red No. 106, Red No. 201, Red No. 202, Red No. 204, Red No. 205, Red No. 220, Red No. 226, Red No. 227, Red No. 228, Red No. 230, Red No. 401, Red No. 405, Red No. 505, Orange No. 203, Orange No. 204, Orange No. 205, Yellow No. 4, Yellow No. 5, Yellow No. 401, Blue No. 1, and Blue 404; and natural organic pigments such as β-carotene, caramel, and paprika color.
[0010] Luster pigments that can be used include plate-like powders such as mica, synthetic phlogopite, glass, silica, alumina, etc., the surface of which is coated with colorants such as titanium oxide, iron oxide, silicon oxide, Prussian blue, chromium oxide, tin oxide, chromium hydroxide, gold, silver, carmine, organic pigments, etc., as well as film rolls cut into any shape such as polyethylene terephthalate-polymethyl methacrylate laminated powder, polyethylene terephthalate-aluminum vapor-deposited powder, and polyethylene terephthalate-gold vapor-deposited laminated powder.
[0011] The powder of component (A) may be used as is, or may be subjected to a hydrophobic treatment by a conventional method before use. Examples of the hydrophobic treatment include surface treatments such as fluorine compound treatment, silicone treatment, alkyl treatment, alkylsilane treatment, metal soap treatment, water-soluble polymer treatment, amino acid treatment, acylated amino acid treatment, lecithin treatment, organic titanate treatment, polyol treatment, acrylic resin treatment, methacrylic resin treatment, and urethane resin treatment.
[0012] Component (A) may be used alone or in combination of two or more, and the content is 2% by mass or more, preferably 3% by mass or more, more preferably 4% by mass or more, preferably 40% by mass or less, more preferably 30% by mass or less, and even more preferably 20% by mass or less, based on the total composition, from the viewpoint of beautifully finishing the skin and excellent covering power. The content of component (A) is 2% by mass or more, preferably 2 to 40% by mass, more preferably 3 to 30% by mass, and even more preferably 4 to 20% by mass, based on the total composition.
[0013] The polysaccharide thickeners of component (B) used in the present invention include those commonly used in cosmetics, such as xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, gum arabic, hydroxyalkyl cellulose, guar gum, carrageenan, hyaluronic acid, tuberose polysaccharide, tremella fuciformis polysaccharide, locust bean gum, and oxidized cellulose. Of these, from the viewpoints of providing a fresh, light feel during application and a moisturized shine, xanthan gum and hydroxyalkyl cellulose are preferred, xanthan gum and hydroxyethyl cellulose are more preferred, and it is even more preferred to contain at least xanthan gum.
[0014] Component (B) can be used alone or in combination of two or more, and the content is preferably 0.0001% by mass or more in the total composition, more preferably 0.01% by mass or more, even more preferably 0.03% by mass or more, and preferably 2% by mass or less, more preferably 1% by mass or less, and even more preferably 0.3% by mass or less, from the viewpoint of obtaining a fresh and light feeling of use during application and a moisturized luster. The content of component (B) is preferably 0.0001 to 2% by mass in the total composition, more preferably 0.01 to 1% by mass, and even more preferably 0.03 to 0.3% by mass.
[0015] The dimer acid ester of component (C) is an ester of dimer acid obtained by polymerization of two molecules of unsaturated fatty acid. Examples of unsaturated fatty acid include linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and oleic acid. Examples of the ester portion of these dimer acids include higher alcohols such as isopropyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, and linoleyl alcohol, dimer diols obtained by polymerization of two molecules of unsaturated alcohol such as dimer dilinoleyl alcohol, those derived from phytosterol, and castor oil. Specific examples include dimer dilinoleyl bis(behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl) dimer dilinoleate, dimer dilinoleic acid (phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl), dimer dilinoleyl bisstearyl dimer dilinoleate, hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate, and diisopropyl dilinoleate.
[0016] From the viewpoints of obtaining good compatibility with the skin after application and a moisturized shine, component (C) preferably contains one or more selected from di(phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl) dimer dilinoleate, dimer dilinoleyl bis(behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl) dimer dilinoleate, and diisopropyl dilinoleate, and more preferably contains at least di(phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl) dimer dilinoleate.
[0017] In addition, examples of component (C) that can be used include commercially available products such as "Plandool-G" (manufactured by Nippon Fine Chemicals) as dimer dilinoleyl bis(behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl) dimer dilinoleate, "Plandool-H" (manufactured by Nippon Fine Chemicals) as dimer dilinoleic acid (phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl), "LUSPLAN DA-DD-IS" (manufactured by Nippon Fine Chemicals) as dimer dilinoleyl bisstearyl dimer dilinoleate, "Lithokasta DA-L" (manufactured by Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo Co., Ltd.) as hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate, and "KAK DADIP-R" (manufactured by Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo Co., Ltd.) as diisopropyl dilinoleate.
[0018] Component (C) may be used alone or in combination of two or more, and the content is 0.01% by mass or more, preferably 0.05% by mass or more, more preferably 0.1% by mass or more, and 4% by mass or less, preferably 2% by mass or less, more preferably 0.8% by mass or less, in the total composition from the viewpoint of obtaining good skin compatibility after application and moisturized luster. The content of component (C) is 0.01 to 4% by mass, preferably 0.05 to 2% by mass, more preferably 0.1 to 0.8% by mass, in the total composition.
[0019] In the present invention, from the viewpoints of obtaining good skin compatibility after application, high ability to cover uneven color tone, and moisturized luster, the mass ratio (A) / (C) of component (A) to component (C) is preferably 5 or more, more preferably 10 or more, and even more preferably 15 or more, and is preferably 150 or less, more preferably 100 or less, and even more preferably 80 or less. Moreover, the mass ratio (A) / (C) of component (A) to component (C) is preferably 5 to 150, more preferably 10 to 100, and even more preferably 15 to 80.
[0020] The component (D) used in the present invention is a hydrocarbon oil having a melting point of 38 to 60°C. Component (D) is a hydrocarbon oil having a melting point of 38 to 60°C, which is a semi-solid oil obtained by refining a mixture of hydrocarbons. Any oil that is typically used in cosmetics can be used without any particular restrictions, but from the viewpoints of feel during use and impact resistance, one having a melting point of 53 to 60°C is preferred. In the present invention, the melting point is measured by any of the first, second, or third methods of the general test method of the Quasi-Drug Raw Materials Standards. The method to be adopted should be followed if the measurement method is described for each component in the Quasi-Drug Raw Materials Standards. If there is no description, the measurement method should be selected taking the melting point into consideration. Specifically, it is common to use the first method when the melting point is high, far exceeding 80°C, the second method when the melting point is lower than this, and the third method for those called paste oil in catalogs, etc., but any method may be used as long as it can be measured. Commercially available products include White Vaseline, Perfecta (manufactured by Sonneborn), Nomcoat W (manufactured by Nisshin Oillio Group, Ltd.), Chloratum V (manufactured by Croda Japan), and Sunwhite P-200 (manufactured by Nikko Rica Corporation). As the hydrocarbon oil having a melting point of 38 to 60° C., from the viewpoints of obtaining good compatibility with the skin after application and high ability to cover uneven skin tone, petrolatum is preferred.
[0021] Component (D) may be used alone or in combination of two or more, and the content is 0.1% by mass or more, preferably 0.2% by mass or more, more preferably 0.3% by mass or more, and 4% by mass or less, preferably 3% by mass or less, more preferably 2.5% by mass or less, based on the total composition, from the viewpoint of obtaining good skin compatibility after application and ability to cover uneven coloring. The content of component (D) is 0.1 to 4% by mass, preferably 0.2 to 3% by mass, more preferably 0.3 to 2.5% by mass, based on the total composition.
[0022] In the present invention, the mass ratio (A) / ((C)+(D)) of component (A) to the total amount of components (C) and (D) is, from the viewpoints of obtaining good skin compatibility after application, high ability to cover uneven color tone, and moisturized luster, 2 or more, preferably 3 or more, and more preferably 4 or more, and is 40 or less, preferably 30 or less, and more preferably 20 or less. Furthermore, the mass ratio (A) / ((C)+(D)) of component (A) to the total amount of components (C) and (D) is 2 to 40, preferably 3 to 30, and more preferably 4 to 20.
[0023] In the present invention, the mass ratio (C) / (D) of component (C) to component (D) is preferably 0.05 or more, more preferably 0.1 or more, even more preferably 0.2 or more, preferably 3 or less, more preferably 1.5 or less, and even more preferably 0.8 or less, from the viewpoints of obtaining good skin compatibility after application, high unevenness-covering power, and moisturized luster. The mass ratio (C) / (D) of component (C) to component (D) is preferably 0.05 to 3, more preferably 0.1 to 2, and even more preferably 0.2 to 0.8.
[0024] The emulsion cosmetic of the present invention may further contain an oil component that is liquid at 25°C. "Liquid at 25°C" means that the material has fluidity at 25°C, and includes cream and paste-like materials. Examples of oil components that are liquid at 25° C. include silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, ester oils, ether oils, and higher alcohols.
[0025] Examples of silicone oils include dimethylpolysiloxane, dimethylcyclopolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and higher alcohol-modified organopolysiloxane.
[0026] Examples of the hydrocarbon oil include linear or branched hydrocarbon oils such as liquid paraffin, light isoparaffin, liquid isoparaffin, squalane, and squalene.
[0027] Examples of the ester oil include monoester oil, diester oil, and triester oil, and examples of such oils include octyldodecyl myristate, diisostearyl malate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, isotridecyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, dipentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, di(phytosteryl / octyldodecyl) lauroyl glutamate, octyl paramethoxycinnamate, tri(caprylic / capric acid)glyceryl, triethylhexanoin, diglyceryl triisostearate, ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, alkyl benzoate (C12-15), propylene carbonate, jojoba oil, partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, and vegetable oils.
[0028] The ether oils include dialkyl ethers, specifically, dihexyl ether, dicaprylyl ether, cetyl-1,3-dimethylbutyl ether, and the like. The higher alcohol is preferably one or more selected from higher alcohols having 16 to 24 carbon atoms and a branched structure, and examples thereof include decyltetradecanol, octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, hexyldecanol, and oleyl alcohol.
[0029] The oil component that is liquid at 25° C. preferably contains at least one or more oils selected from silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, and ester oils, from the viewpoint of improving the feel during application.
[0030] The oil components that are liquid at 25°C can be used alone or in combination of two or more kinds. From the viewpoint of improving the feel during application, the content is preferably 1 to 35 mass% of the total composition, more preferably 3 to 25 mass%, and even more preferably 5 to 20 mass%.
[0031] The emulsion cosmetic of the present invention may further contain a nonionic surfactant, which can improve storage stability and provide a good feel when used. The nonionic surfactant may be any surfactant that is used in ordinary cosmetics, and examples thereof include sorbitan fatty acid esters such as sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan sesquistearate, and sorbitan sesquioleate; glycerin fatty acid esters, diglycerin fatty acid esters, propylene glycol fatty acid esters such as propylene glycol stearate, polyoxyethylene castor oil, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, alkyl glyceryl ethers, alkyl polyglyceryl ethers, polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene alkylamines, polyether-modified silicones such as polyoxyethylene-methylpolysiloxane copolymers and poly(oxyethylene-oxypropylene)methylpolysiloxane copolymers; and silicone surfactants such as polyglycerin-modified silicones, alkyl-modified polyether-modified silicones, and alkyl chain-co-modified polyether-modified silicones. Among these, from the viewpoints of enhancing emulsion stability and obtaining a good feeling in use, it is preferable to contain one or more selected from sorbitan fatty acid esters and propylene glycol fatty acid esters.
[0032] Moreover, the nonionic surfactant preferably has an HLB value of 1 to 8, from the viewpoints of increasing emulsion stability and obtaining a good feeling when used. Here, HLB (Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance) indicates the molecular weight of the hydrophilic group portion in the total molecular weight of the surfactant, and is calculated by Griffin's formula. When a surfactant is composed of two or more nonionic surfactants, the HLB of the mixed surfactant is calculated as follows. The HLB of the mixed surfactant is the phase arithmetic average of the HLB values of each nonionic surfactant based on their blending ratio. Mixed HLB=Σ(HLBx×Wx) / ΣWx HLBx indicates the HLB value of nonionic surfactant X. Wx denotes the mass (g) of the nonionic surfactant X having a value of HLBx.
[0033] The nonionic surfactants can be used alone or in combination of two or more kinds. From the viewpoint of improving emulsion stability and obtaining a good feeling of use, the content is preferably 0.1 to 5 mass % of the total composition, more preferably 0.3 to 4 mass %, and even more preferably 0.5 to 3 mass %.
[0034] In the present invention, the content of water is preferably from 20 to 70% by mass, more preferably from 30 to 65% by mass, and even more preferably from 40 to 60% by mass, of the total composition, from the viewpoint of obtaining a fresh feeling when used.
[0035] The emulsion cosmetic of the present invention may contain, in addition to the above-mentioned components, components that are usually used in cosmetics, such as surfactants other than those mentioned above, oily components other than those mentioned above, polymeric compounds, antioxidants, fragrances, preservatives, pH adjusters, blood circulation promoters, cooling agents, antiperspirants, germicides, skin activators, moisturizers, and cooling agents.
[0036] The emulsified cosmetic of the present invention can be produced according to a conventional method, and can be made into a formulation such as a liquid, emulsion, paste, cream, gel, or solid. Furthermore, the emulsion cosmetic of the present invention may be either a water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic or an oil-in-water type emulsion cosmetic, and is preferably an oil-in-water type emulsion cosmetic.
[0037] The emulsion cosmetic of the present invention can be used, for example, as makeup cosmetics such as makeup base, foundation, concealer, blusher, eye shadow, etc.; and ultraviolet protection cosmetics such as sunscreen lotion, sunscreen cream, etc., and is suitable as a makeup cosmetic. EXAMPLES
[0038] Examples 1 to 7, Comparative Example 1 An oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic (foundation) was prepared with the composition shown in Table 1, and evaluated for its light and moist feel during application, its compatibility with the skin after application, its covering power, and its moisturized shine after application. The results are also shown in Table 1.
[0039] (Manufacturing method) The powder phase components were mixed and pulverized, added to the aqueous phase components separately mixed at 80°C, and dispersed using a disperser. Then, the oil phase components separately mixed at 80°C were added, stirred using a homomixer, and cooled to 30°C to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic (foundation).
[0040] (Evaluation method) (1) A refreshing and light sensation during application: A panel of five experts evaluated each oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic (foundation) on the skin when it was applied with the hands, in terms of fresh and light feeling of use, according to the following criteria. The results were shown as the total score of the five experts. 5;It spreads very lightly and feels refreshing. 4. Spreads easily and feels fresh. 3; It spreads lightly and feels refreshing. 2: It spreads a little heavily and lacks moisture. 1; It spreads heavily and lacks moisture.
[0041] (2) Skin compatibility after application: Five expert panelists applied each oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic (foundation) to the skin by hand and then sensory evaluated its compatibility with the skin according to the following criteria. The results were shown as the total score given by the five panelists. 5;It blends well with the skin. 4;It blends well with the skin. 3;Slightly blends with the skin. 2;It doesn't blend well with the skin. 1;It doesn't blend well with the skin.
[0042] (3) Coverage: A panel of five experts evaluated the covering power of each oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic (foundation) after applying it to the skin with their hands, according to the following criteria. The results were shown as the total score given by the five experts. 5;It effectively covers uneven skin tone. 4;It can cover uneven skin tone. 3;It can slightly cover uneven skin tone. 2;It doesn't cover uneven skin tone very well. 1; It doesn't cover uneven skin tone
[0043] (4) Moisturizing shine after application: Five expert panelists evaluated each oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic (foundation) on the skin after applying it with their hands, to determine the moisturized shine it gave, according to the following criteria. The results were expressed as the total score given by the five panelists. The moisturized glow refers to a moisturized glow seen on the entire skin, especially on the cheeks. 5: Has a very moisturizing shine. 4;Has a moist, radiant glow. 3: Has a slightly moisturized shine. 2: There isn't much moisturizing shine. 1: There is no moisturizing shine.
[0044] [Table 1]
[0045] Example 8 In the same manner as in Examples 1 to 7, oil-in-water emulsion cosmetics (makeup bases) having the compositions shown in Table 2 were produced. The obtained oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic has a light, refreshing feel during application, blends well with the skin after application, covers uneven skin tone, and provides a moist, radiant look.
[0046] [Table 2]
Claims
1. The following components (A), (B), (C), and (D): (A) Powder 2% by mass or more, (B) a polysaccharide thickener, (C) dimer acid ester 0.01 to 4 mass%, (D) Hydrocarbon oil having a melting point of 38 to 60°C: 0.1 to 4% by mass wherein the mass ratio (A) / ((C)+(D)) of component (A) to the total amount of components (C) and (D) is 2 to 40.
2. 2. The emulsion cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the content of component (A) is 2 to 40% by mass, and the content of component (B) is 0.0001 to 2% by mass.
3. 3. The emulsion cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the mass ratio (C) / (D) of component (C) to component (D) is 0.05 to 3.
4. 3. The emulsion cosmetic according to claim 1, which is an oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic.