Use of a lipid extract from Skeletonema algae to promote and / or stimulate skin repair - Patent Application 20070233633

Abstract

The present invention relates to an extract of Skeletonema algae for topical use to promote repair and / or stimulate the skin and / or lips.

Description

[Technical field]

[0001] The present invention relates to the use of a lipid extract of the algae Skeletonema as a material for promoting and / or activating skin repair.Another object of the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a lipid extract of the algae Skeletonema and optionally an extract of marine bacteria, and its use for promoting and / or activating skin and / or lip repair. [Background technology]

[0002] Skin is the body's first defense against the environment. Every day, the skin is exposed to many stimuli and attacks from both exogenous factors (UV radiation, air pollution, cigarette smoke) and endogenous factors (hormones, inflammatory stress, etc.) that can induce signs of skin aging. These are called intrinsic aging, which is caused by physical changes and genetic factors that occur and appear during the normal aging process, and extrinsic aging, which is related to the aging process that is accelerated by environmental influences.

[0003] One of the main causes of aging is that in the double strand of DNA, the genetic information is damaged by mutation of nucleobases, leading to the accumulation of damage.Theoretically, one mutation can cause cell dysregulation, which can lead to tumors or cell death.Although the cellular system for DNA protection and repair maintains the integrity of genetic messages, these processes are imperfect, and DNA mutations accumulate, resulting in dysregulation of transcription patterns, destruction and weakening of cellular mechanisms, and reduced metabolic capacity of cells, ultimately leading to aging of cells and tissues.

[0004] To prevent DNA damage, cells have developed sophisticated DNA repair mechanisms. There are several systems: Mismatch Repair (MMR), Base Excision Repair (BER), Nucleotide Excision Repair (NER) and Double Strand Break (DSB) repair systems. Paradoxically, DNA repair itself can be subject to changes or age-related deterioration. There is evidence that all DNA repair methods, MMR, excision repair and BDS repair, are less effective with age and less susceptible to mutation accumulation over time (Gorbunova et al., NAR 2007, vol. 35, n° 22, pp 7466-7474).

[0005] There is therefore a need to find new ingredients capable of promoting and / or activating DNA repair mechanisms, in particular to promote the repair and / or regeneration of the skin and / or lips. Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0006] Unexpectedly, the applicant has demonstrated in vitro the effect of lipid extracts from Skeletonema algae on several DNA repair mechanisms, in particular base excision repair (BER) and nucleotide excision repair (NER) mechanisms. In particular, the lipid extracts from Skeletonema algae of the present invention allow the promotion of repair mechanisms of 8-oxoguanine (8oxoG), abasic site, ethenobase (Etheno) and cyclobutanoic acid dimer of pyrimidine (CPD-64) type damage sites caused by genotoxic stress. Furthermore, the results obtained by the applicant further show an additive or synergistic effect on the repair mechanisms of 8oxoG and Ethno type damage sites when the lipid extracts from Skeletonema algae of the present invention are used in combination with marine bacterial extracts. Thus, the lipid extracts from Skeletonema algae of the present invention are of interest to the cosmetics world as repair active agents that promote the regeneration of the skin and / or lips. [Means for solving the problem]

[0007] [Summary of the Invention] In a first aspect, the present invention relates to a lipid extract of the alga Skeletonema for topical use to promote and / or stimulate repair of the skin and / or lips.

[0008] Preferably, the extract used according to the invention is characterized in that it is an extract designated in the International Nomenclature System INCI as SKELETONEMA COSTATUM EXTRACT.

[0009] In another aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a lipid extract of the alga Skeletonema as a cosmetic active agent in a physiologically acceptable medium for topical use to promote repair and / or rejuvenate the skin and / or lips.

[0010] Preferably, the compositions used in accordance with the present invention further comprise at least one cosmetic adjuvant selected from the group consisting of antioxidants, emollients, moisturizers, anti-aging agents, fragrances, and mixtures thereof.

[0011] Even more preferably, the composition for use according to the invention is in the form of a cream, an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion or multiple emulsion, a solution, a suspension, a gel, a milk, a lotion or a serum.

[0012] Preferably, the composition for use according to the invention is characterized in that the algal lipid extract has the INCI name: SKELETONEMA COSTATUM EXTRACT.

[0013] Preferably, the lipid extract of the genus Skeletonema is present in the composition used according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.00001% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.00005% to 0.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.0001% to 0.1% by weight, of active substance (lipid extract) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0014] More preferably, the composition for use according to the invention further comprises a marine bacterial extract as a cosmetic active agent.

[0015] Even more preferably, the marine bacterial extract has the INCI name: BACILLUS FERMENT.

[0016] More preferably, the marine bacterial extract is present in the composition for use according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 5%, preferably from 0.0005% to 4%, more preferably from 0.001% to 2% by weight of active substance (weight of extract) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0017] In another aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, as cosmetic active agents, a lipid extract of Skeletonema algae, preferably one having INCI name: SKELETONEMA COSTATUM EXTRACT, and a marine bacterial extract (preferably an extract having INCI name: BACILLUS FERMENT EXTRACT) in a physiologically acceptable medium. [Brief description of the drawings]

[0018] [Figure 1] FIG. 1 shows the treatment plan for the cells. [Diagram 2] FIG. 2 shows the range of H2O2 cytotoxicity in SK0359 fibroblasts. [Diagram 3] FIG. 3 shows the effect of ergothioneine on DNA repair mechanisms. [Figure 4] FIG. 4 shows the effect of the activators oleocomplexe 1 and Sirtalice™, alone or in combination, on DNA repair mechanisms. [Diagram 5] FIG. 5 shows the ratio [treated] / [untreated] for control conditions (ergothioneine). [Figure 6] FIG. 6 shows the ratio [treated] / [untreated] when multiple active agents of the present invention, Oleocomplexe 1 and Sirtalice™, are used alone and in combination. [Figure 7] FIG. 7 is a star diagram showing protection under control conditions (ergothioneine). [Figure 8] FIG. 8 is a star diagram illustrating the protection of multiple active agents of the present invention, Oleocomplexe 1 and Sirtalice™, when used alone or in combination. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

[0019] [Method of use in the present invention] Surprisingly, the inventors have demonstrated that lipid extracts from the alga Skeletonema algae exhibit beneficial effects in vitro on multiple DNA damage repair mechanisms, suggesting efficacy in topical use for skin and / or lip repair, particularly for the skin of the face and / or neck.

[0020] Therefore, a first object of the present invention relates to a lipid extract of the algae Skeletonema for topical use to promote and / or stimulate the repair of the skin and / or lips.

[0021] "Promoting and / or activating the repair of the skin and / or lips" means that the extract of the present invention can promote the function of DNA damage repair mechanisms, in particular base excision repair (BER) and nucleotide excision repair (NER) mechanisms. In particular, the lipid extract of Skeletonema algae of the present invention can promote repair mechanisms against 8oxoG, dechlorination sites, Etheno and CPD-64 type damage that may be caused by genotoxic oxidative stress.

[0022] By "genotoxic stress" is meant stress which may be of physical or chemical origin, such as ultraviolet light, oxidative stress, etc., and which causes damage to DNA.

[0023] "Base excision repair" or "BER" refers to excision repair, which removes damage affecting only one strand of DNA, allowing the cutting of the damaged area and then using the complementary strand to fill the gap. Base excision mechanisms correct small DNA changes that do not distort the entire DNA helix structure, such as the introduction of oxidized bases or uracil. Excision repair is most important in repairing base damage caused by oxygen reactive species. BER is classified into two subpathways: short patch BER (mechanism that replaces a single nucleotide) and long patch BER (mechanism that replaces 2-13 nucleotides).

[0024] The "Nucleotide excision repair" mechanism or "NER" refers to repair by removing short strands of DNA oligonucleotides that contain damaged bases. This mechanism recognizes bulky damage caused by carcinogenic compounds and covalent bonds between adjacent pyrimidines caused by UV exposure. NER is further divided into two categories: Global Genome repair (GG-NER), which occurs anywhere in the genome, and transcription-coupled repair (TCR), which removes damage on the transcribed strand of active genes.

[0025] "8oxoG" type damage refers to 8-oxoguanine (8-hydroxyguanine, 8-oxo-Gua or OH8Gua) damage. "8oxoG" type damage is one of the most common DNA damages caused by recombination of guanine by oxygen reactive species, which can cause poor pairing with adenine, resulting in G to T and C to An substitutions in the genome. This bond type can be caused by ionizing radiation associated with oxidative metabolism. In humans, it is mainly repaired by DNA glycosylase (OGG1) and AP endonuclease 1 (APE1), i.e., by a base excision mechanism.

[0026] "Abasic site" type damage refers to damage with the effect of damaging a purine or pyrimidine base at a specified location in the DNA. Abasic sites can arise spontaneously by depurination or, more rarely, by depyrimidination. They can be caused by irradiation or oxidative stress. In humans, this damage is primarily repaired by APE1, a base excision mechanism.

[0027] "Etheno" or "etheno base" type lesions are formed by the reaction of aldehyde products bound to the N-atoms of DNA bases, forming the exocycle. The numerous etheno bases that can be formed include 1,N2-ethenoguanine (εG), 1,N6-ethenoadenine (εA) and 1,N4-ethenocytosine (εC). These DNA-producing mutagenic lesions are produced in particular by the reaction of DNA bases with lipid peroxidation products. In humans, this lesion is mainly repaired by alkyladenine DNA glycosylase (AAG) and APE1, i.e., by a base excision mechanism.

[0028] "CPD-64" type damage refers to molecular damage to DNA caused by the formation of pyridine dimers following photochemical reaction between adjacent thymine or cytosine residues. In humans, it is primarily repaired by a nucleotide excision mechanism.

[0029] The skin and lips to which the lipid extract of Skeletonema algae used in accordance with the present invention is applied are healthy, i.e. free of disorders or diseases corresponding to pathological conditions ("unhealthy" subjects having pathology).

[0030] (Lipid extract of Skeletonema algae for use according to the present invention) In a preferred embodiment, the lipid extract of Skeletonema algae used according to the invention is a lipid extract of Skeletonema costatum algae, in particular the extract described in French patent registered under the registration number FR9904165 and published under the number FR2791568B1, in which the lipid extract of Skeletonema algae is used to promote intercellular communication, in particular via the communication junctions of precursors of keratinocytes, fibroblasts and adipocytes of the skin.

[0031] However, to the applicant's knowledge, the effect of the extract on DNA repair mechanisms has not been described so far, and furthermore, its use for repairing and / or revitalizing the skin and / or lips, in particular the skin of the face and / or neck, has not been described or suggested.

[0032] Skeletonema algae, specifically Skeletonema costatum, are well-known unicellular algae in the phylum Chlorophytes, branch Chrysophycophytes, class Diatomophycytes, order Centrales. Diatomophyceae (diatoms) are widespread in fresh, marine or brackish waters. The life of species in this class can be planktonic or benthic. The protoplasm is enclosed in a silicate frustule. Skeletonema costatum (SKC) is a marine, cosmopolitan species, often associated with phytoplanctonic blooms in coastal waters.

[0033] In one particularly preferred embodiment, the lipid extract of Skeletonema algae used according to the invention is obtained by the extraction method described below.

[0034] [Method for extracting lipid extract from Skeletonema algae used according to the present invention] In one advantageous embodiment, the lipid extract used according to the invention is characterized in that it is an extract obtained by extracting the algae Skeletonema with an alcoholic solvent selected from the group consisting of isopropanol, ethanol and methanol.

[0035] Advantageously, the extraction is carried out under reflux.

[0036] In another advantageous alternative method, the algae is frozen prior to extraction with the alcohol solvent, preferably at a temperature of about -40°C to -20°C, preferably for about 1 to 7 days.

[0037] In another advantageous embodiment, the frozen algae is directly immersed in a heated alcohol solvent. The thermal shock promotes the precipitation of silica (from the skeleton of the algae cells).

[0038] In another advantageous embodiment, in the alkaline alcohol extraction, the extract of the above-mentioned algae is obtained by carrying out the following steps in succession: a) alkalizing the alcohol solvent to a pH in the range of 10 to 14, preferably to a pH of 13, using, for example, an aqueous sodium hydroxide solution or an aqueous potassium hydroxide solution; b) removing insoluble matter from the aqueous alcohol phase; c) adding distilled water to the hydroalcoholic phase; d) subjecting the resulting solution to liquid-liquid extraction with a non-polar solvent that is immiscible with the aqueous-alcoholic phase; e) removing the non-polar solvent-containing phase; f) acidifying the aqueous alcoholic phase obtained after removal of the non-polar solvent-containing phase to a pH between 1 and 3, preferably 2; g) liquid-liquid extraction of the solution obtained after acidification with a non-polar solvent that is immiscible with the aqueous alcohol phase; h) removing the aqueous alcoholic phase; j) evaporating the non-polar solvent-containing phase obtained after removal of the hydroalcoholic phase to obtain an oil free of the non-polar solvent, which is the extract obtained and used according to the invention. After alkalinization, the use of acidified alcohol makes it possible to obtain an extract with visual and olfactory properties suitable for use in cosmetic compositions.

[0039] In another advantageous alternative, the extract is obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction.

[0040] In yet another advantageous embodiment, the algae is softened by soaking in an alcohol solvent at room temperature prior to other extraction procedures, preferably for a period of about 5 to 80 minutes, more preferably for a period of about 20 to 40 minutes.

[0041] In yet another advantageous embodiment, the amount of alcohol solvent used is about 0.1 liters to 20 liters of solvent, preferably about 2 liters to 10 liters of solvent, per 100 g of algae, expressed as dry weight of algae.

[0042] In yet another advantageous embodiment, the extraction can be carried out under an inert atmosphere, preferably under a nitrogen-saturated atmosphere, in particular to avoid significant oxidative degradation of the active molecules.

[0043] This conditioning of the lipid extract is preferably carried out under an inert gas, such as nitrogen gas, to protect the active molecules.

[0044] As a non-limiting example of a method for producing a lipid extract of Skeletonema algae to be used according to the present invention, reference may be made to examples II.1 and II.2 of the French patent published under number FR2791568B1.

[0045] The lipid extract of the Skeletonema algae described in the paragraph above may be used directly to prepare the cosmetic composition of the present invention.

[0046] In a preferred embodiment, the lipid extract of Skeletonema algae used in accordance with the present invention is referred to as SKELETONEMA COSTATUM EXTRACT under the INCI International Nomenclature System.

[0047] In another preferred embodiment, the lipid extract of Skeletonema algae used according to the invention is the product sold under the trade name Oleocomplexe 1 by Givaudan active.

[0048] Oleocomplexe 1 is called CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC / SUCCINIC TRIGLYCERIDE (and) SKELETONEMA COSTATUM EXTRACT (and) TOCOPHEROL (and) LECITHIN (and) ASCORBYL PALMITATE in the International Nomenclature System INCI.

[0049] This Oleocomplexe 1 product contains extract of Skeletonema algae with a content ranging from 5 to 10%. 0.2% tocopherol, 0.05% lecithin, 0.01% ascorbyl palmitate, and Caprylic, capric and succinic triglycerides (esters of glycerol with caprylic, capric and succinic acids) in amounts sufficient to bring the final product to 100% Includes.

[0050] Marine bacterial extracts for use in accordance with the present invention In some embodiments, the present invention also uses marine bacterial extracts.

[0051] Indeed, the Applicant has surprisingly been able to demonstrate that the use of a lipid extract of the Skeletonema algae of the present invention in combination with a marine bacterial extract results in additive and even synergistic effects in the repair mechanisms against 8oxoG and Etheno type damage.

[0052] In one particular embodiment, the marine bacterial extract used according to the invention is an extract having the INCI name: BACILLUS FERMENT.

[0053] In one advantageous embodiment, the marine bacterial extract is an extract of bacteria of the genus Bacillus, which are well known to those skilled in the art and form a species of gram-positive bacteria belonging to the genus Bacillaceae, order Bacillales, class Bacillis, phylum Firmicutes.

[0054] In the present invention, the marine bacteria are derived from the deep sea adjacent to the island of Reunion. They were collected at a depth of about 3400 m, at a temperature of about 1.5° C., and at an oxygen level of about 3.8 μmol / L-1.

[0055] In another preferred embodiment, the marine bacterial extract used in accordance with the present invention is the product sold by LIPOTRUE under the trade name Sirtalice™.

[0056] The Sirtalice™ product is referred to as GLYCERIN (and) WATER (and) BACILLUS FERMENT under the INCI International Nomenclature System.

[0057] Sirtalice™ products contain, in addition to marine bacterial extract (contents ranging from 0.43% to 0.58%), 17% to 22% water, and Sufficient glycerin to bring the final product to 100% Includes. For use according to the invention, the cosmetic composition comprises as cosmetic active agents at least one lipid extract of Skeletonema algae and optionally an extract of marine bacteria. In the present invention, the lipid extract of Skeletonema algae is used in the cosmetic composition in an amount effective to obtain the desired effect.

[0058] By "effective amount" is meant the minimum amount of lipid extract of Skeletonema algae required to obtain the beneficial effect according to the present invention, i.e. the beneficial effect of promoting and / or activating the healing of the skin and / or lips (especially the neck and / or neck skin).

[0059] The cosmetic composition for the care of keratinous materials, in particular the skin and / or lips, in the use according to the invention comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a lipid extract of the above-mentioned Skeletonema algae.

[0060] Therefore, another object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition comprising a lipid extract of the alga Skeletonema as a cosmetic active agent in a physiologically acceptable medium for topical use to promote repair and / or activation of the skin and / or lips.

[0061] In a preferred embodiment, the lipid extract of the alga Skeletonema has the INCI name: SKELETONEMA COSTATUM EXTRACT.

[0062] By "cosmetic composition" is meant any composition for cosmetic, i.e. aesthetic purposes, which may come into contact with the superficial parts of the human body, more particularly with keratinous materials, in particular with the human skin and / or lips.

[0063] By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant any additive (or excipient) that can come into contact with keratinous materials without the risk of toxicity, incompatibility, instability and / or allergic reaction and that is suitable for topical use.

[0064] By "keratinous material" according to the invention is meant the skin and / or its appendages, more particularly the human skin and / or lips, which may in particular be the skin of the face and / or neck and / or body, and the lips.

[0065] The keratinous material of the present invention is in particular a healthy keratinous material ("healthy" subject) that does not have any trouble or disorder corresponding to a pathological condition ("unhealthy" subject having a pathology). Healthy skin and / or lips or healthy skin and / or lips will be described in the remainder of the specification in indifferemment.

[0066] According to one advantageous alternative embodiment, the lipid extract of Skeletonema algae is present in the cosmetic composition used according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.00001% to 1%, preferably from 0.00005% to 0.5%, more preferably from 0.0001% to 0.1% by weight of active substance (lipid extract of Skeletonema algae) relative to the total weight of the final composition.

[0067] According to one particular embodiment, the lipid extract of the Skeletonema algae is incorporated into a cosmetic composition in the form of a product sold under the name Oleocomplexe 1.

[0068] According to this embodiment, the product sold as Oleocomplexe 1 is present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.0001% to 1%, preferably from 0.0005% to 0.5%, more preferably from 0.001% to 0.1%, by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of the final composition.

[0069] Additional components that are advantageously used in the use of the composition of the present invention may be included in the range of 0.0001% to 10% by weight (raw material), preferably 0.001% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0070] The physiologically acceptable medium is generally contained in an amount of 1 to 99% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

[0071] The cosmetic compositions to be used according to the invention are compositions intended to care for keratinous materials, in particular the skin and / or lips, and in particular the skin of the face and / or neck.

[0072] Cosmetic compositions for use in accordance with the present invention will generally contain, in addition to a lipid extract of Skeletonema algae and a physiologically acceptable medium, one or more acceptable cosmetic additives known to those skilled in the art to obtain a topical composition (e.g., in the form of a cream, oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion or multiple emulsion, solution, suspension, gel, milk, lotion, serum, balm, stick or powder).

[0073] In one particular embodiment, the composition used according to the invention is in the form of a cream, an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion or multiple emulsion, a solution, a suspension, a gel, a milk, a lotion or a serum.

[0074] In a preferred embodiment, the composition for use according to the invention is in the form of a cream or serum.

[0075] The cosmetic composition used in accordance with the present invention may be in any pharmaceutical form suitable for topical application to the skin and / or lips, in particular the skin of the face and / or neck, comprising a lipid extract of Skeletonema algae and at least one cosmetic adjuvant selected from antioxidants, fragrances, vitamins, thickeners, emollients, moisturizers, anti-ageing agents, lifting agents, firming agents, plumping agents, emollients, anti-pollution agents, whitening or depigmenting agents, fillers, nacres and mixtures thereof.

[0076] Also, in one particular embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition used in accordance with the present invention may further comprise at least one cosmetic adjuvant selected from the group consisting of antioxidants, emollients, moisturizers, anti-aging agents, fragrances and mixtures thereof.

[0077] Depending on the nature of the composition, the one or more cosmetically acceptable additives may be selected from emulsions, polymers, surfactants, rheological agents, electrolytes, pH adjusters, antioxidants, preservatives, colorants, and mixtures thereof.

[0078] As specific examples, cosmetic compositions for use in accordance with the present invention may include gelling agents, antioxidants, preservatives, and mixtures thereof.

[0079] The cosmetic composition to be used according to the invention may further comprise a fatty or oily (solid fatty substance) phase.

[0080] The term "oil phase" means an oil or a mixture of oils, which may or may not be miscible with each other. For the purposes of the present invention, "oil" means a lipid component that is insoluble in water and is liquid at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile, vegetable, mineral or synthetic.

[0081] The oil phase of the present invention may include natural oils, hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone-based oils and mixtures thereof.

[0082] The content of the fatty or oily phase in the cosmetic composition of the present invention is generally from 0.2% to 45% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0083] In one particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition used in accordance with the present invention further comprises at least one second cosmetic active agent.

[0084] Preferably, the second cosmetic active agent is a marine bacterial extract, even more preferably a marine bacterial extract having the INCI name: BACILLUS FERMENT.

[0085] Preferably, the marine bacterial extract is used in the cosmetic composition of the present invention in an amount effective to achieve the desired effect, and in particular an amount effective to obtain a synergistic effect with regard to the beneficial effect of promoting and / or activating the repair of the skin and / or lips (especially the skin of the face and / or neck).

[0086] In one advantageous alternative embodiment, the marine bacterial extract is present in the cosmetic composition used according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 5%, preferably from 0.0005% to 4%, more preferably from 0.001% to 2%, by weight of active substance (weight of the above-mentioned marine bacterial extract), relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0087] In one particular embodiment, the marine bacterial extract is provided in a cosmetic composition in the form of a product sold under the name Sirtalice™.

[0088] According to this alternative embodiment, the product sold under the name Sirtalice™ may be present in the cosmetic composition used in accordance with the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 10%, preferably from 0.01% to 5%, more preferably from 0.1% to 2.5%, by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of the final composition.

[0089] Another object of the present invention is directed to a cosmetic composition comprising, as cosmetic active agent, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a lipid extract of Skeletonema algae, preferably an extract of a lipid extract having INCI name: SKELETONEMA COSTATUM EXTRACT, and an extract having a marine bacterial extract (preferably an extract having INCI name: BACILLUS FERMENT).

[0090] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition contains, as cosmetic active agents, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an extract having the INCI name: CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC / SUCCINIC TRIGLYCERIDE (and) SKELETONEMA COSTATUM EXTRACT (and) TOCOPHEROL (and) LECITHIN (and) ASCORBYL PALMITATE and an extract having the INCI name: GLYCERIN (and) WATER (and) BACILLUS FERMENT.

[0091] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition comprises, as cosmetic active agents, in a physiologically acceptable medium, the product sold under the name Oleocomplexe 1 and the product sold under the name Sirtalice®.

[0092] The invention is illustrated in the following non-limiting examples, in which percentages (%) are expressed by weight of ingredient (product sold as Oleocomplexe 1 and product sold as Sirtalice™) relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated. EXAMPLES

[0093] [Example 1: Examination of the protective effect of the active agent of the present invention] (Purpose of the study) In this study, the Applicant investigated the protective effect of the active agents of the invention, used alone or in combination, against the effects of genotoxic stress (hydrogen peroxide, H2O2) on the DNA repair activity of normal human fibroblasts. More specifically, the study concerns the protective effect of the products sold under the names "Oleocomplexe 1" and "Sirtalice™".

[0094] (Review procedure) In phase 1, normal human fibroblasts (NHF-SK0359) derived from a thigh sample of a 30-year-old woman were cultured. After 24 hours of culture, the cytotoxic dose (IC20) of H2O2 treatment was determined by MTT test.

[0095] In phase 2 of this study, the effects of the activators, either alone or in combination, on DNA repair activity in the presence of H2O2 stress were measured (Figure 1).

[0096] (Phase 1) Measurement of H2O2 toxicity - Optimization of experimental conditions ·procedure The IC20 dose is determined using the MTT cell viability assay and corresponds to the concentration of a genotoxic agent (here, H2O2) that results in 20% cell mortality.

[0097] NHFs were seeded in 96-well plates and cultured under standard conditions for 2 days. H2O2 was then added to the medium at concentrations ranging from 0 to 200 μM. Cell mortality was assessed after 24 h.

[0098] ·result In SK0359 fibroblasts, cytotoxicity caused by 24 h H2O2 treatment was observed at concentrations above 5 μM. Total mortality was obtained at a concentration of 200 μM H2O2 (Figure 2).

[0099] The H2O2 concentration used in the treatment in the presence of activators (corresponding to IC20) is 40 μM.

[0100] (Phase 2: Examination of the effect of activators on DNA repair activity - H2O2 stress) ·Principle of ExSy-SPOT test The ExSy-SPOT test is used to characterize the Base Excision Repair (BER), Nucleotide Excision Repair (NER), and Interstrand CrossLink Repair (ICLR) systems.

[0101] The cell extracts were placed on a chip functionalized with a plasmid carrying a specific DNA lesion in the presence of a specific buffer, ATP and four dNTPs (one of which is a label for subsequent detection).

[0102] DNA repair enzymes contained in the extract cleave the lesion (or the DNA fragment surrounding the lesion) and incorporate fluorescent nucleotides during DNA resynthesis.

[0103] The fluorescent signal is quantified by using a scanner and is proportional to the removal / reassembly power of each extract for each injury.

[0104] The damage examined is shown in Table 1.

[0105] [Table 1]

[0106] ·Define experimental conditions [Table 2]

[0107] ·result Effects of H2O2 and ergothioneine (Figure 3) Treatment of the medium with 40 μM H2O2 inhibited the overall effectiveness of the repair mechanisms by approximately 50%.

[0108] In the presence of ergothioneine, an increase in the fluorescent signal was observed compared to the fluorescence obtained with H2O2 stress alone.

[0109] Addition of ergothioneine to the medium restored basal fluorescence levels upon repair of abasic and etheno lesions (Fig. 3 ).

[0110] It can be concluded that this compound protects the DNA repair system and therefore protects cells from H2O2 stress. In this study, ergothioneine can be used as a positive control (ctrl+).

[0111] - Consideration of surfactants The raw results of treatment with the various activators, alone or in combination, are shown in Figure 4. To better visualize the effects, the previously obtained results are shown as ratios (Figures 5 and 6), where the red line is the baseline DNA repair activity in untreated (NT) NHFs.

[0112] As described above, addition of ergothioneine to the medium restores basal fluorescence levels for repair of abasic and etheno-damage (Figure 5).

[0113] Regarding the active agents used according to the invention (FIG. 6), it is believed that they are capable of modulating the DNA repair capacity. In particular, a particularly significant effect is observed under the following conditions: Oleocomplexe 1: 8oxoG, abasic sites and CPD-64 lesions ·Sirtalice(TM): Abasic site damage Oleocomplexe 1+Sirtalice™: 8oxoG, abasic, etheno and CPD-64 lesions The values ​​observed for FIG.

[0114] Raw ratios obtained with treatments using different activators alone or in combination [Table 3]

[0115] Measurement of additive or synergistic effects (increases observed compared to untreated (NT) controls (H2O2 only)) [Table 4]

[0116] Surprisingly, the combination of the two active agents produces additive and even synergistic effects on the repair of 8oxoG and ethenotype lesions.

[0117] Conclusions regarding the protection offered by the activator The protection offered by the active agent is evaluated based on the ratio value against the oxidative stress generated by H2O2, according to the formula: 100-[(1-activator) / (1-H2O2) x 100] It is judged by the protection percentage obtained from A "star" representation was used for Figures 7 and 8.

[0118] This alternative display of the results makes it possible to visualize that the protective effect of the ergothioneine control among all repair activators ranges from 40 to 100% depending on the repair pathway and therefore the assumed damage (see Figure 7).

[0119] With regard to the active agents of the present invention, it is of great interest to note the overall protection of these active agents when used alone or in combination at the concentrations studied (with the exception of glycol repair).

[0120] When used alone, Oleocomplexe 1 shows a better protective effect than Sirtalice™, except against Etheno damage, where the protective effect of the two active agents is the same.

[0121] The combination of the two activators further protects the repair mechanisms of 8oxoG, CPD-64 and Etheno lesions, which is not the case for abasic sites.

[0122] Surprisingly, an additive effect is observed in the repair of 8oxoG-type lesions, whereas a synergistic effect is obtained in the repair of Etheno-type lesions.

[0123] Overall, the above results support the benefits of using lipid extracts from Skeletonema algae, alone or in combination with marine bacterial extracts, to promote DNA damage repair mechanisms and therefore promote and / or repair the healing of the skin and / or lips.

[0124] [Example 2: Cosmetic formulation] Cosmetic formulation as a serum [Table 5]

[0125] When applied to the skin of the face and / or neck and around the eyes, the serum containing the active agents Oleocomplexe 1 and Sirtalice™ used according to the invention promotes skin repair.

[0126] Cream-based cosmetic formulation [Table 6]

[0127] When applied to the skin of the face, a cream containing the active agents Oleocomplexe 1 and Sirtalice™ used according to the invention promotes skin repair.

Claims

1. A lipid extract of Skeletonema algae for topical use for promoting and / or activating the repair of skin and / or lips.

2. The extract according to claim 1, characterized in that it is designated as Skeletonema costatum extract [SKELETONEMA COSTATUM EXTRACT] in the International Nomenclature INCIs.

3. A cosmetic composition comprising a lipid extract of Skeletonema algae as a cosmetic active ingredient for topical use for promoting and / or activating the repair of skin and / or lips in a physiologically acceptable medium.

4. The cosmetic composition according to claim 3, characterized in that the composition further comprises at least one cosmetic adjuvant selected from the group consisting of antioxidants, emollients, humectants, anti-aging agents, fragrances, and mixtures thereof.

5. The cosmetic composition according to claim 3, characterized in that in the use according to claim 3, it is in the form of a cream, an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion or a multiple emulsion, a solution, a suspension, a gel, a lotion, or a serum.

6. The cosmetic composition according to claim 3, characterized in that in the use according to claim 3, the lipid extract of algae has the INCI name: Skeletonema costatum extract [SKELETONEMA COSTATUM EXTRACT].

7. The cosmetic composition according to claim 3, characterized in that in the use according to claim 3, the lipid extract of Skeletonema algae is contained in the composition in a range of 0.00001% to 1% by weight of the active substance (weight of the lipid extract) based on the total weight of the composition.

8. The cosmetic composition according to claim 3 for use according to claim 3, characterized in that the composition further comprises a marine bacteria extract as a cosmetic active agent.

9. The cosmetic composition according to claim 8 for use according to claim 3, characterized in that in the use according to claim 3, the marine bacteria extract contains the INCI name: Bacillus ferment [BACILLUS FERMENT].

10. The cosmetic composition according to claim 8 for use according to claim 3, characterized in that in the use according to claim 3, the marine bacteria extract is contained in the composition in a range of 0.0001% to 5% by weight of the active substance (weight of the extract) based on the total weight of the composition.

11. A cosmetic composition containing, as a cosmetic active ingredient, a lipid extract of Skeletonema algae and a marine bacteria extract as a cosmetic active ingredient in a physiologically acceptable medium.

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