Pigment suspension and cosmetic preparation prepared using said pigment suspension

Abstract

The present application discloses a pigment suspension comprising: a) at least one aluminum pigment; and b) at least one polyethylene glycol having an average molecular weight of 200 to 35,000 g / mol. The present application also discloses a cosmetic agent comprising: i) a pigment suspension; and ii) a cleansing and / or nurturing component.

Description

[Technical field]

[0001] The subject of the present invention is a pigment suspension comprising a pigment and a carrier medium. A further subject is a cosmetic agent comprising a pigment suspension and a cleansing and / or nurturing ingredient. [Background technology]

[0002] Pigments are often used in lacquers, paints, printing inks, powder coatings, cosmetics, or for coloring plastics. Colorants, lacquers, printing inks, cosmetics, and powder coatings are liquid or powder coatings that are applied to surfaces to obtain both improved or altered optical and physical properties.

[0003] Changing the shape and color of keratinous materials, especially human hair, is an important area of ​​modern cosmetics. To change the color of hair, experts know a wide variety of coloring systems depending on the dyeing requirements. For permanent, strong dyeing with good fastness properties and good gray hair coverage, oxidation dyes are usually used. Such dyes usually contain an oxidation dye precursor (a so-called developer component) and a color-developing component, which, under the influence of an oxidizing agent, such as hydrogen peroxide, react with each other to produce the actual dye. Oxidation dyes are characterized by a very long-lasting dyeing result.

[0004] When using direct dyes, the already formed dye diffuses from the dye into the hair fiber. Compared to oxidative dyes, the coloration obtained with direct dyes is less durable and washes out more quickly. Direct dye coloration usually remains on the hair for 5 to 20 washes.

[0005] The use of color pigments is known to change the color of hair and / or skin for a short period of time. Color pigments are generally understood to be insoluble dyeing substances. They are present in the dye composition undissolved as small particles and only adhere externally to the surface of the hair fiber and / or skin. Color pigments can therefore usually be removed again without residue after several washes with detergents containing surfactants. This type of product is available in various versions under the name "hair mascara" on the market.

[0006] Ash blonde is a trendy hair color right now. This color tone is a cool matte blonde with light gray tones. This color is suitable for adding accents with highlights and balayage. This effect is mainly good for long hair.

[0007] The best starting color for ash blonde is blonde. Silver shampoo can be used to transform blonde hair into a cool ash blonde, thanks to the blue and / or purple pigments and / or direct dyes it contains.

[0008] In the case of blue direct dyes, the problem often arises that they simply adhere to the hair unevenly, thus resulting in a correspondingly uneven color result. Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0009] It is an object of the present invention to provide a cosmetic composition capable of mattifying keratinous fibers, in particular blonde keratinous fibers. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

[0010] It has been shown that pigment suspensions containing at least one aluminum pigment will evenly mattify blonde hair and give it a light gray tone. Application of the pigment suspension can impart a silky shine to dark hair.

[0011] A first subject of the present application is therefore a pigment suspension comprising a) at least one aluminum pigment and b) at least one polyethylene glycol having an average molecular weight between 200 and 35,000 g / mol.

[0012] As a first essential component of the present invention, the pigment suspension contains at least one aluminum pigment.

[0013] Aluminum pigments are used in lacquers, inks and plastics, but also in decorative cosmetics, such as nail polish.

[0014] At least one aluminum pigment preferably has a small substrate plate.

[0015] Small substrate plates made of aluminum can be produced, in particular, by punching from aluminum foil or by conventional cutting and spraying techniques. For example, small aluminum plates are obtained using the Hall process of wet milling.

[0016] The small substrate plates made of aluminum preferably have an average thickness of up to 150 nm, preferably less than 50 nm, more preferably less than 30 nm, particularly preferably up to 25 nm, for example up to 20 nm. The average thickness of the small substrate plates is at least 1 nm, preferably at least 2.5 nm, particularly preferably at least 5 nm, for example at least 10 nm. Preferred ranges of thickness of the small substrate plates are 2.5-50 nm, 5-50 nm, 10-50 nm; 2.5-30 nm, 5-30 nm, 10-30 nm; 2.5-25 nm, 5-25 nm, 10-25 nm, 2.5-20 nm, 5-20 nm, and 10-20 nm. Preferably, each substrate plate has a thickness as uniform as possible.

[0017] The size of the small substrate plate can be adjusted to suit the purpose of each application, for example the desired effect on keratinous materials. In general, the small substrate plate made of aluminum has an average maximum diameter of about 2 to 200 μm, in particular about 5 to 100 μm. In general, the small substrate plate made of mica has an average maximum diameter of about 1 to 200 μm, in particular about 5 to 100 μm, even more preferably about 5 to 25 μm.

[0018] In a preferred embodiment, the shape factor (aspect ratio), expressed as the ratio of the average size to the average thickness, is at least 80, preferably at least 200, more preferably at least 500, and particularly preferably more than 750. In this case, the average size of the uncoated small substrate plate is understood to mean the d50 value of the uncoated small substrate plate. Unless otherwise stated, the d50 value was measured using a Sympatec Helos type device with QUIXEL wet dispersion. To prepare the sample, the sample to be investigated was pre-dispersed in isopropanol for 3 minutes.

[0019] The small substrate plate can have different shapes. It can be, for example, a lamellar or lenticular metal plate, or other so-called vacuum metalized pigment (VMP). Lamellar small substrate plates are characterized by irregularly structured edges, also called "cornflake" because of their appearance. Lenticular small substrate plates have substantially regular rounded edges, also called "silver dollar" because of their appearance.

[0020] Small substrate plates made of aluminum can be passivated, for example, by anodizing (oxide layer) or by chromate treatment.

[0021] The coating can change the surface and / or optical properties of the pigment and can increase the mechanical and chemical resistance of the pigment. For example, only the top and / or bottom surface of the small substrate plate can be coated, omitting the side surfaces. Preferably, the entire surface of the small substrate plate, optionally passivated, including the side surfaces, is covered by the layer. Preferably, the small substrate plate is completely enveloped by the coating.

[0022] The coating may be composed of one or more layers. In a preferred embodiment, the coating has only one layer A. In an equally preferred embodiment, the coating has a total of at least two layers, preferably two or three. It may be preferred that the coating has two layers A and B, where layer B is different from layer A. Layer A is preferably located between layer B and the surface of the small substrate plate. In yet another preferred embodiment, the coating has three layers A, B and C. In this embodiment, layer A is located between layer B and the surface of the small substrate plate, and layer C, which is different from layer B and is located below, is located above layer B.

[0023] Suitable materials for layer A and optionally layers B and C are all substances that can be permanently applied to the small substrate plate. The materials should preferably be applied in the form of a film. Preferably, the entire surface of the passivated small substrate plate, possibly including the sides, is covered by layer A or by layers A and B or layers A, B and C.

[0024] Each layer may in particular contain at least one metal oxide (hydrate).

[0025] The metal oxide (hydrate) is preferably selected from the group consisting of silicon (di)oxide, silicon oxide hydrate, aluminum oxide, aluminum oxide hydrate, boron oxide, germanium oxide, manganese oxide, magnesium oxide, iron oxide, cobalt oxide, chromium oxide, titanium dioxide, vanadium oxide, zirconium oxide, tin oxide, zinc oxide, and mixtures thereof.

[0026] In the case of pigments with small substrate plates made of metal or metal alloy, layer A preferably comprises at least one low refractive index metal oxide and / or metal oxide hydrate. The low refractive index material has a refractive index of at most 1.8, preferably at most 1.6.

[0027] Low refractive index metal oxides (hydrates) suitable for layer A include, for example, silicon dioxide, silicon oxide hydrate, aluminum oxide, aluminum oxide hydrate, boron oxide, germanium oxide, manganese oxide, magnesium oxide, and mixtures thereof, with silicon dioxide being preferred. Layer A preferably has a thickness of 1 to 100 nm, particularly preferably 5 to 50 nm, and particularly preferably 5 to 20 nm.

[0028] Layer B, if present, may differ from layer A and in the case of pigments with small substrate plates made of metal or metal alloy, contain at least one high refractive index metal oxide (hydrate). The high refractive index material has a refractive index of at least 1.9, preferably at least 2.0, particularly preferably at least 2.4. Layer B preferably comprises at least 95% by weight, particularly preferably at least 99% by weight, of a high refractive index metal oxide.

[0029] If layer B contains a (high refractive index) metal oxide, it preferably has a thickness of at least 50 nm. The thickness of layer B is preferably not more than 400 nm, particularly preferably a maximum of 300 nm.

[0030] Suitable high refractive index metal oxides for layer B are, for example, selectively light absorbing (i.e. colored) metal oxides such as iron(III) oxide (α- and γ-Fe2O3, red), cobalt(II) oxide (blue), chromium(III) oxide (green), titanium(III) oxide (blue, usually mixed with titanium oxynitride and titanium nitride) and vanadium(V) oxide (orange) and mixtures thereof.

[0031] According to a preferred embodiment, the pigment with a small substrate plate made of aluminum has a further layer C which comprises a metal oxide (hydrate) different from the underlying layer B. Suitable metal oxides are, for example, silicon (di)oxide, silicon oxide hydrate, aluminum oxide, aluminum oxide hydrate, zinc oxide, tin oxide, titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide, iron(III) oxide and chromium(III) oxide. Silicon dioxide is preferred.

[0032] In the case of pigments having small substrate plates made of metal or metal alloy, layer C preferably has a thickness of 10 to 500 nm, particularly preferably 50 to 300 nm.

[0033] Suitable pigments based on small substrate plates made of metal or metal alloys are, for example, the pigments Alegrace® Marvelous, Alegrace® Gorgeous or Alegrace® Aurous from Schlenk Metallic pigments GmbH.

[0034] The amount of aluminum pigment in the pigment suspension depends inter alia on the nature of the pigment and its application. The amount of pigment is preferably 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 4% by weight, very particularly preferably 0.2 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the pigment suspension.

[0035] As a second essential component of the present invention, the pigment suspension comprises at least one polyethylene glycol having an average molecular weight of 200 to 35,000 g / mol.

[0036] Polyethylene glycol (PEG) has the general molecular formula C 2n H 4n+2 O n+1 Depending on the chain length, it is a liquid, paste-like, or solid polymer having the formula:

[0037] Polyethylene glycol having an average molecular weight of 200 to 400 g / mol is liquid, polyethylene glycol having an average molecular weight of more than 400 to 600 g / mol is pasty, and polyethylene glycol having an average molecular weight of ≧1000 g / mol is solid.

[0038] It has been found that the presence of at least two different polyethylene glycols in the pigment suspension improves the dispersing power of the pigment suspension on the keratinous fibers, thereby resulting in a particularly uniform mattification.

[0039] It is therefore preferred that the pigment suspension comprises at least two polyethylene glycols having an average molecular weight between 200 and 35,000 g / mol.It is even more preferred if the pigment suspension comprises at least one liquid or pasty polyethylene glycol and at least one solid polyethylene glycol.

[0040] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the pigment suspension comprises at least one first polyethylene glycol having an average molecular weight between 200 and 600 g / mol and at least one second polyethylene glycol having an average molecular weight between 1000 and 35,000 g / mol.

[0041] In a very particularly preferred embodiment, the pigment suspension comprises, as at least one first polyethylene glycol having an average molecular weight between 200 and 600 g / mol, a polyethylene glycol with an average molecular weight of 400 g / mol.

[0042] In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, the pigment suspension comprises a polyethylene glycol with an average molecular weight of 6,000 g / mol as the second polyethylene glycol with an average molecular weight of 1000 to 35,000 g / mol.

[0043] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the proportion of the first polyethylene glycol in the pigment suspension is higher than the proportion of the second polyethylene glycol.

[0044] In a preferred embodiment, the pigment suspension is characterised in that a first polyethylene glycol having an average molecular weight of 200 to 600 g / mol and a second polyethylene glycol having an average molecular weight of 1000 to 35,000 g / mol are present in a weight ratio ranging from 15:1 to 1:1, preferably from 12:1 to 2:1, in particular from 10:1 to 5:1.In a very preferred embodiment, the method is characterised in that the weight ratio of the first polyethylene glycol to the second polyethylene glycol in the agent is in the range from 7:1 to 9:1, most preferably 8:1.

[0045] Particularly good results have been obtained when the pigment suspension contains at least one polyethylene glycol having an average molecular weight of 200 to 35,000 g / mol in a total amount of 95 to 99.95% by weight, preferably 96 to 99.9% by weight and very particularly preferably 97 to 99.8% by weight, based on the total weight of the pigment suspension.

[0046] The pigment suspension may comprise small amounts, preferably not more than 4.9% by weight, more preferably not more than 2% by weight, of further components, in each case based on the total weight of the pigment suspension, which may include further solvents, such as water, isopropyl alcohol and / or ethyl acetate, bases and / or corrosion inhibitors.

[0047] The pigment suspension can be used to mattify keratinous fibers, especially blonde keratinous fibers, when applied.

[0048] Alternatively, the pigment suspension can be combined with at least one essential ingredient of a cosmetic preparation for treating hair, in particular a shampoo, rinse or hair treatment.

[0049] A second subject of the invention relates to a cosmetic agent comprising i) a pigment suspension according to the invention and ii) a cleansing component and / or a nurturing component.

[0050] The cosmetic agent is prepared, for example, by combining the pigment suspension according to the invention with at least one cleansing component and / or at least one nurturing component selected from the group consisting of: quaternary compounds, silicone oils, protein hydrolysates, vegetable oils, vitamins, vitamin precursors, plant extracts, monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, amino acids, purine alkaloids, glycols, and mixtures. In this way, a cosmetic agent can be provided which, in addition to the desired mattification, imparts further cosmetic benefits (cleaning and / or nurturing) to the keratinous fibers treated therewith.

[0051] Cosmetic agents of this kind can be used, for example, for cleansing and / or nurturing keratinous fibers, in particular human hair.

[0052] The cleansing and mattifying cosmetic agent is characterized in that it contains at least one cleansing surfactant, which in the context of the present application is understood to mean anionic surfactants, amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants and nonionic surfactants.

[0053] The cleansing and mattifying cosmetic agent preferably comprises a surfactant mixture of an anionic surfactant and an amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactant.

[0054] Suitable cleansing surfactants are used in the cosmetic preparation in an amount of preferably 0.1 to 30% by weight, more preferably 1 to 20% by weight, particularly preferably 2 to 17.5% by weight, in particular 3 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic preparation.

[0055] The amount of pigment suspension in the cleansing and mattifying cosmetic agent is from 10 to 99% by weight, preferably from 40 to 99% by weight, based on its total weight.

[0056] In addition to the cleansing surfactant and the pigment suspension according to the invention, the cleansing and mattifying cosmetic agent may contain water and / or a mixture of water and at least one C1-C4 alcohol.

[0057] Suitable anionic surfactants that can be used in the cosmetic formulation include: linear or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkylsulfonates having 8 to 24 C atoms, Linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 C atoms, ·Formula RO-(CH2-CH2O) n -SO3X alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfonates, where R is a linear or branched, saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl group, preferably having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, n is 0 or 1 to 12, and X is an alkali metal ion or an alkaline earth metal ion or a protonated triethanolamine or an ammonium ion, Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8-24 C atoms and 1-6 double bonds.

[0058] Particularly preferred anionic surfactants are linear or branched alkyl ether sulfates containing alkyl groups with 8 to 18, in particular 10 to 16 C atoms and 1 to 6, in particular 2 to 4 ethylene oxide units. Very particularly preferably, the surfactant mixtures of anionic and amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants contain sodium lauryl ether sulfate (INCI: sodium laureth sulfate), very particularly preferably sodium lauryl ether sulfate with 2 ethylene oxide units.

[0059] Further particularly preferred anionic surfactants are linear or branched alkylsulfonates containing an alkyl group having 8 to 18, in particular 10 to 16, C atoms.

[0060] Particularly preferred are the sodium, magnesium and / or triethanolamine salts of linear or branched lauryl, tridecyl and / or myristyl sulfates having a degree of ethoxylation of 2 to 4.

[0061] Suitable amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants can be added to the cleansing and mattifying cosmetic composition in an amount of preferably 0.1 to 25% by weight, more preferably 0.25 to 20% by weight, particularly preferably 0.5 to 15.0% by weight, in particular 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0062] Suitable amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants can be selected from the compounds of the following formulae (i) to (v), in which the group R is in each case a linear or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated, alkyl or alkenyl group having 8 to 24 carbon atoms: [ka]

[0063] Particularly suitable amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants include those known by the INCI names "cocamidopropyl betaine" and "disodium cocoamphodiacetate."

[0064] The amount of pigment suspension in the cleansing and mattifying cosmetic agent depends on the desired mattifying effect and may be from 10 to 99% by weight, based on its total weight.

[0065] Alternatively, the cosmetic agent may be characterized as comprising at least one nurturing ingredient selected from the group consisting of quaternary compounds, silicone oils, protein hydrolysates, vegetable oils, vitamins, vitamin precursors, plant extracts, monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, amino acids, purine alkaloids, glycols, and mixtures thereof.

[0066] Suitable protein hydrolysates include, for example, protein hydrolysates from silk, pashmina, cashmere wool, merino wool, mohair, wheat, corn, rice, potato, soy, almond, pea, algae, collagen and / or milk.

[0067] Suitable vegetable oils include, for example, amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, thistle oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, elder seed oil, blackcurrant seed oil, jojoba oil, coconut oil, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, almond oil, marula oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, paranut oil, pecan nut oil, peach kernel oil, rapeseed oil, castor oil, seabuckthorn pulp oil, seabuckthorn seed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, walnut oil, wild rose oil and / or wheat germ oil.

[0068] Suitable vitamins include vitamin A, vitamin E, vitamin B2, vitamin B5, vitamin B7 and / or folic acid.

[0069] Vitamin precursors may include, for example, panthenol.

[0070] Suitable plant extracts include, for example, extracts of tea tree oil, lavender, nettle, rosemary, chamomile, marigold, aloe vera, ginseng, soy, birch and / or wheat.

[0071] Suitable monosaccharides are, for example, erythrose, threose, ribose, arabinose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, glucose, mannose, gulose, idose, galactose and / or fructose.

[0072] For example, lactose, sucrose, maltose and / or raffinose can be used as oligosaccharides.

[0073] The group of amino acids includes alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, glutamine, glutamic acid, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, and / or valine.

[0074] Suitable purine alkaloids include, for example, caffeine, theophylline and / or theobromine.

[0075] Suitable glycols may be selected from ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,4-butylene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol, 1,8-octanediol, cis-1,4-dimethylolcyclohexane, trans-1,4-dimethylolcyclohexane, any isomeric mixture of cis- and trans-1,4-dimethylolcyclohexane, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, PPG-10 butanediol (INCI), and mixtures thereof. When present, the glycol is used in addition to the polyethylene glycol.

[0076] A preferred cosmetic agent for mattifying and nurturing keratinous fibers is characterized in that it comprises at least one quaternary compound.

[0077] The quaternary compounds are monomeric cationic or amphoteric ammonium compounds, monomeric amines, aminoamides, polymeric cationic ammonium compounds and polymeric amphoteric ammonium compounds. The amount of at least one quaternary compound in the mattifying and nurturing cosmetic agent is 0.1-10% by weight, based on its total weight. This amount is not less than or greater than that when using a mixture of different compounds of the quaternary compound.

[0078] A highly preferred cosmetic agent for mattifying and nurturing keratinous fibers is characterized in that it contains at least one quaternary compound selected from at least one of the following groups: i. monoalkyl quats, and / or ii. ester quats, and / or iii.Formula (Tkat4): [ka] wherein the functional groups R are each independently a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon functional group having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and A represents a physiologically compatible anion. and / or iv. amines and / or cationized amines, and / or v. poly(methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium) compounds, and / or vi. Quaternized cellulose derivatives, in particular polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-24, polyquaternium-27, polyquaternium-67, polyquaternium-72, and / or vii. cationic alkyl polyglycosides, and / or viii. cationized honey, and / or ix. cationized guar derivatives, and / or x. chitosan, and / or xi. Polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic and methacrylic acid, in particular Polyquaternium-7, and / or xii. Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylates and dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylates, in particular polyquaternium-11, and / or xiii. vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazolium methchloride copolymers, in particular polyquaternium-16, and / or xiv. quaternized polyvinyl alcohol, and / or xv. Polyquaternium-74, As well as mixtures thereof.

[0079] Monoalkyl quats are cationic ammonium compounds of the formula (Tkat1) and form the first group of suitable quaternary compounds. [ka]

[0080] In formula (Tkat1), R1, R2, R3 and R4 each independently represent hydrogen, methyl, phenyl, benzyl, saturated, branched or unbranched alkyl radicals having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which may optionally be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups. A represents a physiologically acceptable anion, for example a halide such as chloride or bromide, as well as methosulfate.

[0081] Examples of compounds of formula (Tkat1) are lauryltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, cetyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, dicetyldimethylammonium chloride, tricetylmethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium bromide, behenyltrimethylammonium methosulfate.

[0082] Ester quats are quaternary compounds according to the formula (Tkat2) and form a further preferred group of quaternary compounds. [ka]

[0083] where the groups R1, R2 and R3 are each independent of one another and may be the same or different. The groups R1, R2 and R3 have the following meanings: a branched or unbranched alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, or a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, or - an aryl or alkaryl group, such as phenyl or benzene; - group (-X-R4), provided that up to two of the groups R1, R2 or R3 may represent this group.

[0084] The group (-X-R4) is present at least 1 to 3 times.

[0085] where X represents: 1) -(CH2)n- (n = 1 to 20, preferably n = 1 to 10, particularly preferably n = 1 to 5), or 2) -(CH2-CHR5-O)n-, where n = 1 to 200, preferably 1 to 100, particularly preferably 1 to 50, and particularly preferably 1 to 20, and R5 represents hydrogen, methyl, or ethyl; 3) Hydroxyalkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, which may be branched or unbranched, and which contain at least one and at most three hydroxyl groups. Examples are: -CH2OH, -CH2CH2OH, -CHOHCHOH, -CH2CHOHCH3, -CH(CH2OH)2, -COH(CH2OH)2, -CH2CHOHCH2OH, -CH2CH2CH2OH and hydroxybutyl groups; R4 represents: 1) R6-O-CO-, where R6 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group and may optionally be further oxyalkylated with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and / or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units; or 2) R7-O-CO-, where R7 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, which may be optionally further oxyalkylated with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and / or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units; and A represents a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion, which is defined at this point as representative of all structures described below. The anions of all cationic compounds described may be halide ions, fluoride, chloride, bromide, iodide, cations of the general formula RSO3 - where R represents a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms or an anionic group of an organic acid such as maleic acid, fumaric acid, oxalic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid or acetic acid.

[0086] Such products are commercially available, for example, under the trade names: Rewoquat®, Stepantex®, Dehyquart®, Armocare®, and Quartamin®. The products Armocare® VGH-70, Dehyquart® F-75, Dehyquart® C-4046, Dehyquart® L80, Dehyquart® F-30, Dehyquart® AU-35, Rewoquat® WE18, Rewoquat® WE38DPG, Stepantex® VS 90, and Quartamin® BTC 131 are examples of these esterquats.

[0087] Further preferred quaternary compounds are cationic betaine esters of formula (Tkat3). [ka]

[0088] R8 corresponds in this sense to R7.

[0089] Further suitable quaternary compounds have the general formula (I): [ka] where n and m are each independently an integer of 5 to 40, provided that n+m≧38; particularly preferably n=m; and most preferably n=m=20; a and b are, independently of one another, an integer from 1 to 10; in particular, independently of one another, 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5, preferably the formula a+2≧b≧a−2, most preferably a=b=3, R and R' are independently selected from -H and -CH3; preferably R = R', so that preferably either PEG or PPG diester quats are used; most preferably R = R' -CH3, X - is a physiologically tolerable anion, a halide such as chloride, bromide or iodide, toluenesulfonate, methosulfate, etc., particularly preferably methosulfate.

[0090] Thus, preferred cosmetic agents have the formula (II): [ka] [In the formula, x represents 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23 or 24] The compound is characterized in that it contains the compound represented by the formula:

[0091] Particularly preferred are compounds of formula (II) in which n = 20. Very preferred agents are characterized in that they always contain a compound of formula (I) together with a compound of general formula (II).

[0092] Quaternary imidazoline compounds are a further group. The formula (Tkat4) shown below shows the structure of these compounds. [ka]

[0093] The R groups each independently represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon group having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferred compounds of formula (Tkat4) contain the same hydrocarbon group for each instance of R. The chain length of the R group is preferably from 12 to 21 carbon atoms. A represents an anion as described above. Particular examples of the present invention are available under the INCI names, for example, Quaternium-27, Quaternium-72, Quaternium-83, and Quaternium-91. Quaternium-91 is most preferred.

[0094] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the agent contains at least one amine and / or cationized amine, in particular an amidoamine and / or a cationized amidoamine having the following structural formula: [ka]

[0095] where R1 represents an acyl or alkyl group having 6 to 30 C atoms, which may be branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, where the acyl and / or alkyl group may contain at least one OH group, and

[0096] R2, R3, and R4 are each independently 1) Hydrogen, or 2) alkyl groups having 1 to 4 C atoms, which may be the same or different and are saturated or unsaturated, and 3) branched or unbranched hydroxyalkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, with at least one and up to three hydroxyl groups, such as -CHOH; -CH2CH2OH, -CHOHCHOH, -CH2CHOHCH3, -CH(CH2OH)2, -COH(CH2OH)2, -CH2CHOHCH2OH, -CH2CH2CH2OH, and a hydroxybutyl group;

[0097] A is an anion as described above, n is an integer from 1 to 10.

[0098] Preference is given to cosmetic agents in which the amines and / or quaternized amines according to the general formula (Tkat5) are amidoamines and / or quaternized amidoamines, in which R1 represents a branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated acyl group having 6 to 30 C atoms, which may contain at least one OH group. Preference is given here to fatty acid groups derived from oils and waxes, in particular from natural oils and waxes. Suitable examples include lanolin, beeswax or candelilla wax.

[0099] Preference is also given to amidoamines and / or quaternized amidoamines in which R2, R3 and / or R4 in formula (Tkat5) represent a group of general formula CH2CH2OR5, in which R5 can have the meaning of an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a hydroxyethyl group or hydrogen. Preferred values ​​for n in general formula (Tkat5) are integers from 2 to 5.

[0100] The alkylamidoamines are converted to the quaternary compounds by protonation in the corresponding acidic solution. Cationic alkylamidoamines are preferred.

[0101] Examples of such commercial products are: Witcamine® 100, Incromine® BB, Mackine® 401 and other Mackine® types, Adogen® S18V, and the permanent cationic aminoamines: Rewoquat® RTM 50, Empigen® CSC, Swanol® Lanoquat DES-50, Rewoquat® UTM 50, Schercoquat® BAS, Lexquat® AMG-BEO, or Incroquat® Behenyl H.

[0102] Further suitable fatty acid amides correspond to the general formula (III): [ka]

[0103] In the formula, R1, R2 and R3 are independently a linear, branched or unbranched C6-C30, preferably C8-C24, more preferably C12 to C22, most preferably C12-C18 alkyl or alkenyl group. R1-R3 are preferably capryl, caprylyl, octyl, nonyl, decanyl, lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, isostearyl, oleyl, behenyl or arachidyl. Furthermore, R2 is particularly preferably the same as R3, most preferably R1 is the same as R2, which is the same as R3. The letters n and m, independently of one another, represent integers from 1 to 10, preferably from 2 to 6, most preferably 2, 3 and / or 4, where most preferably n=m. Most preferably, R1 is the same as R2, R2 is the same as R3 and is selected from capryl, caprylyl, octyl, nonyl, decanyl, lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, isostearyl, oleyl, behenyl or arachidyl, and n=m=2. Most preferably, R1=R2=R3 and is selected from lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, isostearyl, oleyl, behenyl or arachidyl, and particularly preferably cetyl, stearyl, isostearyl, oleyl or behenyl, and n=m=2. The most preferred compound of formula (I) is the one with the INCI name Bis-Ethyl (Isostearoyl Imidazoline) Isostearamide. The latter compound is commercially available from Croda under the trade name Keradyn® HH.

[0104] More preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are cationic polymers.

[0105] The cationic polymers may be homopolymers or copolymers, or polymers based on natural polymers, with the quaternary nitrogen groups present within the polymer chain or, preferably, as substituents on one or more monomers. Suitable cationic monomers are unsaturated, radically polymerizable compounds having at least one cationic group, in particular ammonium-substituted vinyl monomers, such as, for example: trialkylmethacryloxyalkylammonium, trialkylammonium and quaternary vinylammonium monomers, having cyclic cationic nitrogen-containing groups, such as pyridinium, imidazolium or quaternary pyrrolidone, such as alkylvinylimidazolium, alkylvinylpyridinium or alkylvinylpyrrolidone salts. The alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups, such as C1-C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1-C3 alkyl groups.

[0106] Monomers containing ammonium groups can be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. Suitable comonomers are, for example, acrylamide, methacrylamide; alkyl and dialkyl acrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl methacrylamide, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, vinyl caprolactone, vinyl caprolactam, vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl esters such as vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, where the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C1-C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1-C3 alkyl groups.

[0107] Of these polymers, the following have proven particularly suitable: General formula -{CH2-[CR 1 COO-(CH2) m N + R 2 R 3 R 4 ]} n X - Homopolymer of In the formula, R 1 = -H or -CH3, R 2 , R 3 and R4 are independently selected from C1-4-alkyl, -alkenyl or -hydroxyalkyl groups, m=1, 2, 3 or 4, n is a natural number, X - R is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion. With respect to these polymers, it is preferred that at least one of the following conditions applies: 1 represents a methyl group or R 2 , R 3 and R 4 represents a methyl group or m has the value 2.

[0108] Physiologically acceptable counterion X - Possible ions include, for example, halides, sulfate, phosphate, methosulfate, and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate, and acetate. Methosulfate and halides, especially chloride, are preferred.

[0109] Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, copolymers of formula (Copo): [ka] During the ceremony, x+y+z=Q Q represents a value of 3 to 55,000, preferably 10 to 25,000, particularly preferably 50 to 15,000, more preferably 100 to 10,000, even more preferably 500 to 8000, particularly preferably 1000 to 5000; x represents a value between (0 and 0.5)Q, preferably between (0 and 0.3)Q, in particular 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, where the value 0 is preferred, y represents a value of (0.1 to 0.95)Q, preferably (0.5 to 0.7)Q, particularly 1 to 24,000, preferably 5 to 15,000, more preferably 10 to 10,000, particularly 100 to 4800; z represents a value of (0.001 to 0.5)Q, preferably (0.1 to 0.5)Q, particularly 1 to 12,500, preferably 2 to 8000, more preferably 3 to 4000, and especially 5 to 2000.

[0110] Regardless of which preferred copolymer of formula (Copo) is used, preference is given to agents characterized in that the (y:z) ratio is between 4:1 and 1:2, preferably between 4:1 and 1:1.

[0111] Regardless of which copolymer is used in the formulation, the copolymer should be between 10,000 and 20,000,000 gmol -1 , preferably 100,000 to 10 million gmol -1 , more preferably 500,000 to 5 million gmol -1 , especially 1.1 million to 2.2 million gmol -1 In particular, hair treatment agents having a molar mass of

[0112] A highly preferred copolymer constructed as described above is commercially available under the name Polyquaternium-74.

[0113] A particularly suitable homopolymer is poly(methacryloxyethyltrimethylammonium) chloride (optionally crosslinked), which has the INCI name Polyquaternium-37. Such products are commercially available, for example, under the names Rheocare® CTH (Cosmetic Rheologies) and Synthalen® CR (3V Sigma).

[0114] The homopolymers are preferably used in the form of non-aqueous polymer dispersions, such as those commercially available under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96.

[0115] Suitable cationic polymers derived from natural polymers are cationic derivatives of polysaccharides, such as cationic derivatives of cellulose, starch or guar. Chitosan and chitosan derivatives are also suitable. Cationic polysaccharides have the general formula: GOB-N+R a R b Rc A - has.

[0116] G is an anhydroglucose group, such as a starch or cellulose anhydroglucose group. B is a divalent linking group, such as alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene, or hydroxyalkylene;

[0117] R a , R b and R c are independently of one another alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl or alkoxyaryl having up to 18 C atoms, R a , R b and R c The total number of carbon atoms in is preferably up to 20; A - is a conventional counter anion, preferably chloride.

[0118] Cationic cellulose, i.e. quaternized cellulose, is commercially available with different degrees of substitution, cationic charge density, nitrogen content and molecular weight. For example, Polyquaternium-67 is commercially available under the name SoftCat®, Polymer SL or SoftCat®, Polymer SK (Dow). A further highly preferred cellulose is offered by Croda under the trade name Mirustyle® CP. It is a trimonium and cocodimonium hydroxyethylcellulose derivatized cellulose with the INCI name Polyquaternium-72. Polyquaternium-72 can be used in solid form or already dissolved in aqueous solution.

[0119] Further cationic celluloses are Ucare® Polymer JR 400 (Dow, INCI name Polyquaternium-10) and Polymer Quatrisoft® LM-200 (Dow, INCI name Polyquaternium-24). Further commercial products are the compounds Celquat® H 100 and Celquat® L 200. Particularly preferred cationic celluloses are Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-67 and Polyquaternium-72.

[0120] A suitable cationic guar derivative is commercially available under the trade name Jaguar® and has the INCI name guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Furthermore, a particularly suitable cationic guar derivative is also commercially available under the brand name N-Hance®. Further cationic guar derivatives are commercially available under the name Cosmedia® from BASF SE. A preferred cationic guar derivative is the commercial product AquaCat® from Hercules. This raw material is a cationic guar derivative that has already been predissolved. A cationic guar derivative is preferred.

[0121] A suitable chitosan is commercially available, for example, under the trade name Flonac® from Kyowa Oil & Fat (Japan). A preferred chitosan salt is chitosonium pyrrolidone carboxylate, commercially available, for example, under the name Kytamer® PC from Amerchol (USA). Further chitosan derivatives are freely available commercially under the trade names Hydagen® CMF, Hydagen® HCMF, and Chitolam® NB / 101.

[0122] Another group of polymers that have great utility are the glucose-based polymers. The following diagram shows such cationic alkyl oligoglucosides. [ka]

[0123] In the above formula, the groups R are each independently a linear or branched C6 to C30 alkyl group, a linear or branched C6 to C30 alkenyl group; preferably, the group R is selected from lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, oleyl, behenyl or arachidyl.

[0124] The radicals R1 are, independently of one another, linear or branched C6-C30 alkyl radicals, linear or branched C6-C30 alkenyl radicals; preferably, the radicals R represent a radical selected from the following: butyl, capryl, caprylyl, octyl, nonyl, decanyl lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, oleyl, behenyl or arachidyl. The radicals R1 are particularly preferably identical. More preferably, the radicals R1 are selected from technical mixtures of fatty alcohol moieties selected from C6 / C8-fatty alcohols, C8 / C10-fatty alcohols, C10 / C12-fatty alcohols, C12 / C14-fatty alcohols, C12 / C18-fatty alcohols. Most preferred are technical fatty alcohol moieties of vegetable origin. The counterions to the cationic charge are physiologically compatible anions, such as halides, methosulfates, phosphates, citrates, tartrates, etc. Preferably, the counterion is a halide, such as fluoride, chloride, bromide, or methosulfate. The anion is most preferably chloride.

[0125] Particularly preferred examples of cationic alkyl oligoglucosides are the compounds having the INCI names Polyquaternium-77, Polyquaternium-78, Polyquaternium-79, Polyquaternium-80, Polyquaternium-81, and Polyquaternium-82. The cationic alkyl oligoglucosides named Polyquaternium-77, Polyquaternium-81, and Polyquaternium-82 are most preferred.

[0126] Such compounds are commercially available, for example, from Colonial Chemical Inc. under the name Poly Suga® Quat.

[0127] Further preferred cationic polymers comprise at least one structural unit of formula (IV), at least one structural unit of formula (V), at least one structural unit of formula (VI), and at least one structural unit of formula (VII). [ka] During the ceremony, R 1 and R 4 each independently represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, X 1 and X 2 represent, independently of one another, an oxygen atom or an NH group, A 1 and A 2 are each independently an ethane-1,2-diyl group, a propane-1,3-diyl group, or a butane-1,4-diyl group, R 2 , R 3 , R 5 and R 6 are each independently a (C1-C4) alkyl group, R 7 (C8-C 30 ) represents an alkyl group.

[0128] According to the formulae above and all groups below, the chemical bonds indicated with the symbol * represent the free valences of the corresponding structural fragment.

[0129] To compensate for the polymer positive charge in the agent, all possible physiologically compatible anions are useful, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate, or p-toluenesulfonate and triflate.

[0130] Examples of (C1-C4) alkyl groups according to the present invention are methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl and tert-butyl.

[0131] In the present invention, (C8-C 30 Examples of alkyl groups are octyl (capryl), decyl (caprinyl), dodecyl (lauryl), tetradecyl (myristyl), hexadecyl (cetyl), octadecyl (stearyl), eicosyl (arachyl), and docosyl (behenyl).

[0132] With respect to the above formulas (IV) to (VII), the following cationic polymers can be used in cosmetic agents if they implement one or more of the following characteristics: ·R 1 and R 4 are methyl groups, X 1 represents an NH group, X 2 represents an NH group, A 1 and A 2 represent, independently of one another, ethane-1,2-diyl or propane-1,3-diyl, ·R 2 , R 3 , R 5 and R 6 denote, independently of one another, methyl or ethyl (particularly preferably methyl), ·R 7 is (C 10 -C 24 ) alkyl groups, in particular decyl (caprinyl), dodecyl (lauryl), tetradecyl (myristyl), hexadecyl (cetyl), octadecyl (stearyl), eicosyl (arachyl) or docosyl (behenyl).

[0133] The structural unit of formula (VII) is preferably selected from at least one of the structural units of formulae (VII-1) to (VII-8). [ka]

[0134] It has also proven particularly advantageous to select as structural units of formula (VII) structural units of formula (VI-7) and / or formula (VI-8), the latter being very particularly preferred structural units.

[0135] Furthermore, it has been found to be preferable if the structural unit of formula (VII) is selected from at least one structural unit of formulae (VII-1) to (VII-8). [ka] [In the formula, R 7 In each case (C8~C 30 ) represents an alkyl group.

[0136] The structural units of the formula (VII-7) and / or the formula (VII-8) are in turn considered to be particularly preferred structural units of the formula (VII), in which R 7 respectively represent octyl (capryl), decyl (caprinyl), dodecyl (lauryl), tetradecyl (myristyl), hexadecyl (cetyl), octadecyl (stearyl), eicosyl (arachyl) or docosyl (behenyl). The structural unit of formula (VII-8) represents a very particularly preferred structural unit of formula (VII).

[0137] Very particularly preferred cationic polymers contained in the agent include at least one structural unit of the formula (IV), at least one structural unit of the formula (V), at least one structural unit of the formula (VI-8) and at least one structural unit of the formula (VII-8). [ka] [In the formula, R 7 represents octyl (capryl), decyl (caprinyl), dodecyl (lauryl), tetradecyl (myristyl), hexadecyl (cetyl), octadecyl (stearyl), eicosyl (arachyl) or docosyl (behenyl).

[0138] A very particularly preferred cationic polymer according to the invention is the copolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-vinylcaprolactam, N-(3-dimethylaminopropyl) methacrylamide and 3-(methacryloylamino)propyl-lauryldimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Polyquaternium-69), which is commercially available, for example, from the company ISP under the trade name Aquastyle® 300 (28-32% by weight of active substance in an ethanol-water mixture, molecular weight 350,000).

[0139] The polymers described so far are only a part of the polymers that can be used. In order not to describe all suitable cationic and / or amphoteric polymers, in addition to their composition, the INCI names of the preferred polymers are summarized. The preferred polymers have the following INCI names: Polyquaternium-2, Polyquaternium-4, Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-11, Polyquaternium-15, Polyquaternium-16, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18, Polyquaternium-22, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-28, Polyquaternium-32, Polyquaternium-33, Polyquaternium-34, Polyquaternium-35, Polyquaternium-36, Polyquaternium-38, Polyquaternium-39, Polyquaternium-40, Polyquaternium-41, Polyquaternium-42, Polyquaternium-43, Polyquaternium-44, Polyquaternium-45, Polyquaternium-46, Polyquaternium-47, Polyquaternium-48, Polyquaternium-49, Polyquaternium-50, Polyquaternium-51, Polyquaternium-52, Polyquaternium-53, Polyquaternium-54, Polyquaternium-55, Polyquaternium-56, Polyquaternium-57, Polyquaternium-58, Polyquaternium-60, Polyquaternium-61, Polyquaternium-62, Polyquaternium-63, Polyquaternium-64, Polyquaternium-65, Polyquaternium-66, Polyquaternium-67, Polyquaternium-68, Polyquaternium-70, Polyquaternium-71, Polyquaternium-72, Polyquaternium-73, Polyquaternium-74, Polyquaternium-75, Polyquaternium-76, Polyquaternium-77, Polyquaternium-80, Polyquaternium-82, Polyquaternium-83, Polyquaternium-84, Polyquaternium-85, Polyquaternium-86, Polyquaternium-87, Polyquaternium-89, Polyquatern Polyquaternium-37, Polyquaternium-39, Polyquaternium-41, Polyquaternium-42, Polyquaternium-44, Polyquaternium-47, Polyquaternium-55, Polyquaternium-67, Polyquaternium-68, Polyquaternium-69, Polyquaternium-72, Polyquaternium-74, Polyquaternium-76, Polyquaternium-86, Polyquaternium-89, and Polyquaternium-95, and mixtures thereof.

[0140] Particularly preferred cationic polymers have the following INCI names: Polyquaternium-2, Polyquaternium-4, Polyquaternium-11, Polyquaternium-15, Polyquaternium-16, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18, Polyquaternium-28, Polyquaternium-32, Polyquaternium-33, Polyquaternium-34, Polyquaternium-35, Polyquaternium-39, Polyquaternium-41, Polyquaternium-42, Polyquaternium-44, Polyquaternium-47, Polyquaternium-55, Polyquaternium-68, Polyquaternium-69, Polyquaternium-74, Polyquaternium-76, Polyquaternium-86, Polyquaternium-89, and Polyquaternium-95, and mixtures thereof.

[0141] The most preferred cationic polymers have the following INCI names: Polyquaternium-39, Polyquaternium-44, Polyquaternium-47, Polyquaternium-55, Polyquaternium-68, Polyquaternium-69, Polyquaternium-74, Polyquaternium-76, Polyquaternium-86, Polyquaternium-89, and Polyquaternium-95, and mixtures thereof.

[0142] The aforementioned cationic polymers can be used individually or in any combination with one another.

[0143] Further preferred cationic polymers are for example: cationic honey, such as the commercial product Honeyquat® 50; Polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic and methacrylic acid. The products available under the names Merquat® 100 (poly(dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride / acrylamide copolymer) are examples of such cationic polymers, which have the INCI name Polyquaternium-7. Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazolium methchloride copolymers, available under the names Luviquat® FC 370, FC 550, and INCI names Polyquaternium-16, as well as FC 905 and HM 552, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, for example vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate methosulfate copolymer, available from Gaf Co., (USA) under the trade names Gafquat® 755 N and Gafquat® 734, and under the INCI name Polyquaternium-11; Quaternary polyvinyl alcohol, Polymers having quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer backbone, known under the names Polyquaternium-2, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18, and Polyquaternium-27, Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylcaprolactam acrylate terpolymers, such as those offered under the name Aquaflex® SF40, have acrylic esters and acrylic amides as third monomer units. -

[0144] Amphoteric polymers are polymers in which the cationic groups are derived from at least one of the following monomers: (i) a monomer having a quaternary ammonium group represented by the general formula (Mono1), R 1 -CH=CR 2 -CO-Z-(C n H 2n )-N (+) R 2 R 3 R 4 A (-) (Mono1) [In the formula, R 1 and R 2 are each independently a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, R 3 , R 4 and R 5each independently represents an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z represents an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer of 2 to 5, and A (-) is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid; (ii) a monomer having a quaternary ammonium group represented by the general formula (Mono2), [ka] [In the formula, R 6 and R 7 represent, independently of one another, a (C1-C4) alkyl group, in particular a methyl group, A - is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid; (iii) a monomeric carboxylic acid of the general formula (Mono3), R 8 -CH=CR 9 -COOH (Mono3) [In the formula, R 8 and R 9 are each independently a hydrogen atom or a methyl group.

[0145] Particularly preferred is R 3 , R 4 and R 5 is a methyl group, Z is an NH group, and A (-) is a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ion; The monomer (ii) used in the above polymer is preferably acrylic acid.

[0146] Particularly preferred amphoteric polymers are copolymers made from at least one monomer (Mono1) or (Mono2) and monomer (Mono3), in particular from monomers (Mono2) and (Mono3). Very particularly preferably used amphoteric polymers are copolymers made from diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylic acid. These copolymers are commercially available under the INCI name Polyquaternium-22, in particular under the trade name Merquat® 280 (Nalco).

[0147] Furthermore, the amphoteric polymer may further comprise, in addition to the monomers (Mono1) or (Mono2) and (Mono3), a monomer (Mono4), (iv) Monomeric carboxylic acid amides of the general formula (Mono4): [ka] [In the formula, R 10 and R 11 are each independently a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, and R 12 is a hydrogen atom or (C 1- ~C8) alkyl group.

[0148] Very particularly preferably usable amphoteric polymers based on the comonomer (Mono4) are terpolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride, acrylamide and acrylic acid. These copolymers are commercially available under the INCI name Polyquaternium-39, in particular under the trade name Merquat® Plus 3330 (Nalco).

[0149] The amphoteric polymers can generally be used either directly or in the form of a salt, obtained, for example, by neutralization of the polymer with an alkali hydroxide.

[0150] In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic agent comprises a monoalkyl quat and / or a cationic guar derivative as quaternary compound.

[0151] An equally preferred cosmetic agent for nurturing and mattifying keratinous fibers is characterized in that it contains a silicone oil.

[0152] In the context of the present invention, the term "oil" is understood to mean a substance that is liquid at room temperature (25° C.). Moreover, in the context of the present invention, an oil has a solubility in water of less than 1 g / l, preferably less than 0.5 g / l, particularly preferably less than 0.1 g / l (measured at 25° C.).

[0153] The water solubility of silicone oil can be measured, for example, by the following method: 1.0g of silicone oil is placed in a beaker. Then, 1000ml (1 liter) of water is added. A stir bar is added, and the mixture is heated to 25°C while stirring on a magnetic stirrer. The mixture is stirred for 60 minutes. Then, the aqueous mixture is visually evaluated. If after this period, a second phase is still visible, that is, an oil phase that exists separately from the water phase, the solubility of the silicone oil is less than 1g / l (1 gram / liter).

[0154] Silicone oils which can be used in the cosmetic agents are polymeric compounds having a molecular weight of at least 500 g / mol, preferably at least 1000 g / mol, more preferably at least 2500 g / mol and particularly preferably at least 5000 g / mol.

[0155] Silicone oils that can be used in cosmetics contain many Si-O repeat units, where the Si atoms can carry organic groups, such as, for example, alkyl or substituted alkyl groups.

[0156] Corresponding to the high molecular weight of the silicone oils, these are based on more than 10 Si-O repeat units, preferably more than 50 Si-O repeat units and particularly preferably more than 100 Si-O repeat units.

[0157] 5~3000mm 2 / s, preferably 10 to 2000 mm 2 / s, more preferably 10 to 1000 mm 2 / s, and even more preferably 10 to 500 mm 2 / s, very particularly preferably 10 to 500 mm 2 It has proven particularly advantageous to use silicone oils in the cosmetic formulations having a viscosity of 0.01 g / s (measured in each case according to ASTM standard D-445 at 25° C.).

[0158] ASTM Standard D-445 is the standard method for measuring the kinematic viscosity of clear and opaque fluids.

[0159] Viscosity was measured in particular according to ASTM standard D-446, version 06 (D445-06), published in June 2006. This method measures the time required for a defined volume of liquid to flow through a calibrated viscometer capillary tube under defined conditions. For details of the ASTM D-445 method, see in particular ASTM D445-06. The measurement temperature is 25° C. Appropriate equipment (such as viscometer, thermometer, and corresponding calibration) is specified in the method.

[0160] In principle, a wide variety of silicone oils can be used in cosmetic formulations, but the use of polydimethylsiloxanes has proven to be particularly advantageous with regard to improving the feel of the hair and reducing the oily texture.

[0161] Suitable silicone oils from the group of linear polydimethylsiloxanes have the general structure (V): [ka] It is a compound of the formula:

[0162] In this case, z is selected such that the dimethicone is liquid and preferably has the very particularly well suited viscosity range mentioned above.

[0163] z may be an integer of preferably 50 to 100,000, more preferably 100 to 50,000, and particularly preferably 500 to 50,000.

[0164] The corresponding dimethicones are commercially available from various manufacturers. Very particularly suitable is, for example, the dimethicone sold under the trade name Xiameters PMX 200 Silicone Fluid 50 CS by Dow Chemicals, whose viscosity is 50 mm. 2 / s (25°C). This dimethicone is most preferred.

[0165] Another particularly well suited dimethicone is Xiameter PMX 200 Silicone Fluid 100 CS, also available from Dow Corning, which has a viscosity of 100 mm. 2 / s (measured at 25°C).

[0166] Another particularly well suited dimethicone is Xiameter PMX 200 Silicone Fluid 350 CS, also available from Dow Corning, which has a viscosity of 350 mm. 2 / s(25℃).

[0167] Another particularly suitable dimethicone is Dow Corning 200 fluid 500 cSt, available from Dow Corning, which has a viscosity of 500 mm. 2 / s(25℃).

[0168] The amount of the nurturing component is preferably 0.01 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the nurturing and mattifying cosmetic agent.

[0169] The amount of pigment suspension in the nurturing and mattifying cosmetic agent depends on the desired mattifying effect and is between 10 and 99% by weight, preferably between 40 and 99% by weight, based on its total weight.

[0170] In addition to at least one nurturing component and a pigment suspension according to the present invention, the nurturing and mattifying cosmetic agent comprises water and / or water and at least one C 1-Another advantageous component of the nourishing and mattifying cosmetic agent is a fatty alcohol, in particular a mixture of C 16- C 18 It is a fatty alcohol.

[0171] The pigment suspension or the cosmetic agent can be used to mattify keratinous fibers, in particular blonde keratinous fibers, particularly preferably blonde human hair.

[0172] A further subject of the present application is therefore the use of the pigment suspension according to the invention or the cosmetic agent according to the invention for mattifying keratinous fibres. EXAMPLES

[0173] The following pigment suspensions were prepared: TIFF2024536339000020.tif60155

[0174] The pigment suspension was massaged into damp hair tresses (Kerling, 10-0) and left to act for 1 minute, after which the pigment suspension was rinsed with water.

[0175] After drying, the tresses had a cool, matte ash blonde color.

Claims

1. A pigment suspension comprising: a) at least one aluminum pigment; and b) at least one polyethylene glycol having an average molecular weight of 200 to 35,000 g / mol.

2. 2. A pigment suspension according to claim 1, characterized in that the pigment comprises small substrate platelets.

3. 2. The pigment suspension according to claim 1, characterized in that the pigment suspension comprises at least two polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 200 to 35,000 g / mol.

4. 4. The pigment suspension according to claim 3, characterized in that the pigment suspension comprises at least one first polyethylene glycol with an average molecular weight of 200 to 600 g / mol and at least one second polyethylene glycol with an average molecular weight of 1000 to 35,000 g / mol.

5. 3. The pigment suspension of claim 2, wherein the small substrate plate contains a vacuum metallized pigment.

6. 3. The pigment suspension of claim 2, wherein the sub-substrate plate comprises a lenticular sub-substrate plate.

7. 3. The pigment suspension of claim 2, wherein the small substrate plates comprise layered small substrate plates.

8. i) a pigment suspension according to any one of claims 1 to 7, and ii) Cleansing and / or Nurturing Ingredients A cosmetic agent comprising:

9. 9. The cosmetic preparation according to claim 8, wherein the cleansing component is a cleansing surfactant selected from the group consisting of anionic surfactants, amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants, and nonionic surfactants.

10. Nurturing ingredients include: i. monoalkyl quats, ii. Esterquats, iii. Formula (Tkat4): 【Chemical 1】 wherein the groups R independently represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon group having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and A represents a physiologically compatible anion. Quaternary imidazolines of iv. amines and / or cationized amines; v. poly(methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium compounds), vi. Quaternized cellulose derivatives, in particular Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-67, Polyquaternium-72; vii. cationic alkyl polyglycosides, viii. cationized honey; ix. cationized guar derivatives, x. chitosan, xi. Polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic and methacrylic acid, in particular Polyquaternium-7; xii. Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylates and methacrylates, in particular Polyquaternium-11; xiii. Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazolium methchloride copolymers, especially Polyquaternium-16; xiv. quaternized polyvinyl alcohol, xv. Polyquaternium-74, and mixtures thereof 9. The cosmetic agent according to claim 8, characterized in that it is at least one quaternary compound selected from the group consisting of:

11. Use of a pigment suspension according to any one of claims 1 to 7 for matting keratinous fibres.

12. 12. Use according to claim 11, characterized in that the keratinous fibers are blonde keratinous fibers.

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