Retinol-based composition

Abstract

To provide a cosmetic composition containing retinol, which is efficient in particular for combating symptoms of aging of keratin materials and is stable over time, both on storage and also during repeated use of the composition.SOLUTION: The present invention relates to a composition, especially a cosmetic composition, in particular for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, comprising at least retinol, an ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid salt, at least one compound selected from ascorbic acid or an analog thereof, and tocopherol or a derivative thereof.SELECTED DRAWING: None

Description

[Technical field]

[0001] Technical Field The present invention relates to the field of care and / or make-up for keratinous materials, in particular the field of anti-aging care for keratinous materials, in particular the skin.

[0002] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "keratinous materials" refers in particular to the skin, the lips and / or the eyelashes, in particular to the skin and / or the lips, preferably to the body and / or face, more preferentially to the skin of the face.

[0003] Skin aging occurs due to the influence of internal and external factors on the skin. During this aging process, changes occur that impair the structure and function of the skin. The main clinical sign resulting from these changes in the metabolism of the skin is the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, which are caused by loosening and loss of elasticity of the tissue.

[0004] Furthermore, natural ageing causes changes in the skin, in particular a slowing down of the rate of skin cell renewal, which is manifested primarily in the appearance of unfavourable clinical changes such as a decrease in subcutaneous adipose tissue and the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and in histopathological changes such as an increase in the number and thickness of elastic fibres, the disappearance of fibres running perpendicularly from the membrane of the elastic tissue, and the presence of large irregular fibroblasts within the cells of this elastic tissue. [Background technology]

[0005] Prior Art It is a known technique to treat such signs of skin ageing using cosmetic or dermatological compositions containing active agents capable of combating ageing, retinoids being one well-known representative class of active agents.

[0006] Among the retinoid compounds, particular attention has been focused on retinol, a form of vitamin A. Specifically, retinol is an endogenous component that occurs naturally in the human body, and it is well tolerated when applied to the skin at much higher concentrations than retinoic acid.

[0007] However, when retinol is incorporated into cosmetic or dermatological compositions for topical application, it decomposes rapidly under the influence of light, oxygen, metal ions, oxidizing agents, water, or especially upon elevated temperature.

[0008] One of the telltale signs of retinol degradation is a change in the odor of the cosmetic composition in which it is used.

[0009] In particular, the decomposition of retinol also produces an odor that can be particularly unpleasant and discouraging for users, which can limit its use in cosmetic compositions.

[0010] The thermal decomposition of retinol has also been the subject of studies, notably published in (1).

[0011] As a result, retinol formulated in cosmetic compositions is unstable, and it has already been proposed to stabilise the retinol contained in such formulations.

[0012] For example, the document (Patent Document 1) proposes stabilizing retinol in a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion by using at least one fat-soluble antioxidant active agent and / or at least one sequestering agent. Examples of antioxidant active agents include butylhydroxytoluene (BHT). Furthermore, sequestering agents include ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its derivatives.

[0013] However, BHT is a controversial compound because it may be toxic to the human body. Moreover, EDTA and BHT are neither environmentally friendly nor biodegradable. Moreover, this system fails to solve the problem of the odor of the composition changing.

[0014] Also, the document (Patent Document 2) describes a water-in-oil emulsion containing retinol and a stabilizing system composed of a chelating agent, such as EDTA, and an antioxidant. According to said document, it is also possible to prepare a water-in-oil emulsion containing retinol stabilized with a system composed of a fat-soluble antioxidant and a water-soluble antioxidant.

[0015] However, even though the above literature teaches that a combination of EDTA and BHT can stabilize retinol in a composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, this type of combination does not appear to be effective when the composition is formulated in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0016] [Patent Document 1] International Publication No. 96 / 07396 Brochure [Patent Document 2] International Publication No. 93 / 00085 Brochure [Non-patent literature]

[0017] [Non-Patent Document 1] J.Soc.Cosm.Chem.46,191-198(July-August 1995) Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0018] Disclosure of the Invention Thus, there remains a need for cosmetic compositions containing retinol that are effective in combating the signs of aging, especially of keratinous materials, and that are stable over long periods of time, both during storage of the composition and during repeated use.

[0019] Furthermore, such cosmetic compositions must also meet consumer demands, in particular in terms of the environment and / or in terms of organoleptic properties that meet user expectations, such as in particular a pleasant odor and a pleasant color.

[0020] Additionally, there remains a need to adequately stabilize retinol in cosmetic compositions, regardless of the form in which the composition is presented.

[0021] The present invention is particularly directed to meeting these needs. [Means for solving the problem]

[0022] SUMMARY OF THE PRESENT APPLICATION Thus, according to a first aspect thereof, the present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, in particular a cosmetic composition for making up and / or caring for keratinous materials, comprising at least: - With retinol; - with ethylenediamine disuccinate; - at least one compound selected from ascorbic acid or its analogues; - with tocopherol or its derivatives; The present invention relates to a composition comprising:

[0023] Surprisingly, the inventors have found that by combining at least one salt of ethylenediamine disuccinic acid, at least one compound selected from ascorbic acid or an analogue thereof, and at least tocopherol or a derivative thereof, it is possible to effectively stabilize retinol contained in a cosmetic composition.

[0024] Specifically, as shown later in the Examples, the composition according to the present invention is stable to a low extent with respect to loss of the retinol compound contained therein over time.

[0025] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention has a low content of controversial components, in particular a content of less than 0.2% by weight of butylhydroxytoluene (BHT) and / or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) or derivatives thereof, and preferably does not contain any controversial components, in particular does not contain butylhydroxytoluene (BHT) or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) or derivatives thereof.

[0026] According to one of its particular aspects, the invention also relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, in particular a cosmetic composition for making up and / or caring for keratinous materials, comprising, in addition to retinol, ethylenediamine disuccinate, a compound chosen from ascorbic acid or an analogue thereof, and tocopherol or a derivative thereof, di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate.

[0027] According to another aspect, the present invention also relates to the use in a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, containing retinol, of at least one salt of ethylenediamine disuccinic acid, at least one compound selected from ascorbic acid or an analogue thereof, and at least tocopherol or a derivative thereof, in order to slow down or even prevent the decomposition of the retinol compound in the composition.

[0028] The compositions according to the invention are used in particular for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials, preferably for caring for keratinous materials.

[0029] Thus, according to another aspect, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for making up and / or caring for, preferably caring for, keratinous materials, in particular the skin and / or lips, comprising at least one step of applying a composition according to the invention to said keratinous materials.

[0030] Other characteristics, variants and advantages of the compositions according to the invention will appear more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

[0031] Detailed Description Retinol As mentioned above, the compositions according to the present invention contain retinol, also known as vitamin A.

[0032] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "retinol" is intended to refer to all isomers of retinol, in particular all-trans-retinol, 13-cis-retinol, 11-cis-retinol, 9-cis-retinol, and 3,4-didehydroretinol.

[0033] Preferably, all-trans-retinol is used.

[0034] In particular, the compositions according to the present invention comprise an effective amount of retinol.

[0035] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "effective amount" refers to that amount of retinol which acts to produce the desired effect, in particular reducing the signs of aging of keratinous materials.

[0036] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least 0.02% by weight of retinol relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0037] More particularly, the composition according to the invention may contain retinol in an amount ranging from 0.02% to 5.0% by weight, in particular from 0.05% to 3.0% by weight, preferably from 0.08% to 1.0% by weight and more preferentially from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0038] The retinol content is understood to correspond to the active content, also known as the solids content, of retinol introduced into the composition.

[0039] According to a particular embodiment variant, retinol can be introduced into the composition in dissolved form in an oil, such as vegetable oil, for example soybean oil, such that its content in the oil is in particular in the range from 5% to 20% by weight, preferably about 10% by weight.

[0040] Most particularly suitable for use is the product sold by the company BASF, in particular under the name Retinol 10SU, which has a content of 10% by weight of active substance in soybean oil.

[0041] According to other particular embodiment variations, encapsulated forms of retinol may also be used.

[0042] Ethylenediamine disuccinate The composition according to the invention comprises at least one ethylenediamine disuccinate.

[0043] Ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid has the formula: [ka] It is a compound of the formula:

[0044] Preferably, the ethylenediamine disuccinic acid salts are selected from alkali metal salts, such as potassium and sodium salts, ammonium salts and amine salts. More particularly, alkali metal salts of ethylenediamine disuccinic acid are preferred.

[0045] Preferably, the ethylenediamine disuccinate used according to the invention is trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate.

[0046] Compounds of this type are, for example, those sold under the name Natrlquest® E30 by the company Innospec Active Chemicals or those sold under the name Octaquest E30® by the company Octel Performance Chemicals.

[0047] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.01% to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 1.5% by weight and more preferentially from 0.07% to 0.3% by weight of ethylenediamine disuccinate relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0048] The content of ethylenediamine disuccinate is understood to correspond to the active substance content, also known as the solids content, of ethylenediamine disuccinate introduced into the composition.

[0049] According to a particular embodiment variant, the ethylenediamine disuccinate can be introduced into the composition in particular in dissolved form in water, with a content ranging from 25% to 50% by weight, preferably ranging from 35% to 40% by weight.

[0050] A compound of this type is, for example, the compound sold under the name Natrlquest® E30 by the company Innospec Active Chemicals, which is present at 37% by weight in water.

[0051] Ascorbic acid and its analogues The composition according to the invention also comprises at least ascorbic acid and / or an analogue thereof.

[0052] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises ascorbic acid. By way of example, ascorbic acid is sold under the trade name Ascorbic Acid Fine Powder® by DSM Nutritional Products.

[0053] Ascorbic acid, also known as vitamin C, may in particular be in the L form, which can be extracted from natural products. By way of example, ascorbic acid according to the invention is sold under the trade name Ascorbic Acid EP / BP / USP / FCC / E300® by Northeast General Pharmaceutical Factory or under the name Ascorbic Acid 100 Mesh® by CSPC Weishing Pharmaceutical.

[0054] The analogues of ascorbic acid according to the present invention are selected from salts, esters, ethers and sugars of ascorbic acid.

[0055] In one particular embodiment, the ascorbic acid analogue according to the invention is in the form of a monosaccharide ester of ascorbic acid or a metal salt of a phosphated ascorbic acid.

[0056] Monosaccharide esters of ascorbic acid that can be used in the present invention are in particular the glycosyl, mannosyl, fructosyl, fucosyl, galactosyl, N-acetylglucosamine and N-acetylmuramic derivatives of ascorbic acid and mixtures thereof, such as 6-O-β-D-galactopyranosyl L-ascorbic acid. The latter compounds and methods for their preparation are described in particular in the documents EP 487404A, EP 425066A and JP 05213736 A1.

[0057] As regards the metal salt of ascorbic acid phosphate, it may be selected from alkali metal ascorbyl phosphates, alkaline earth metal ascorbyl phosphates and transition metal ascorbyl phosphates such as magnesium, sodium, potassium, calcium or zinc; for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate.

[0058] Analogues of ascorbic acid are more particularly its salts, such as, in particular, sodium ascorbate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate or sodium ascorbyl phosphate, its esters, in particular the acetate, propionate or palmitate esters, such as ascorbyl palmitate or its sugars, in particular glycosyl ascorbic acids.

[0059] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the ascorbic acid analogue corresponds to the formula shown below, in which R1, R2 and R3 represent hydrogen atoms and R4 represents a saturated or unsaturated linear, optionally branched C1-C 16 Alkyl groups, preferably unbranched saturated linear C 15 Corresponds to the group. [ka]

[0060] By way of example, the ascorbic acid analog may more specifically be ascorbyl palmitate (or 6-O-palmitoyl ascorbic acid), available under the trade name Acorbyl palmitate from DSM Nutritional Products.

[0061] In certain embodiments, the compositions of the present invention comprise ascorbic acid and / or one of its analogs, the analog being selected from a salt of ascorbic acid, such as sodium ascorbate, an ascorbic acid analog selected from formula 2 defined above, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, and ascorbyl palmitate.

[0062] The composition according to the invention comprises from 0.025% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 0.50% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 0.2% by weight of ascorbic acid and / or analogues thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0063] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.025% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 0.50% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 0.2% by weight, of ascorbic acid relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0064] Tocopherol and its derivatives The composition according to the invention also comprises at least tocopherol and / or a derivative thereof.

[0065] Vitamin E is a fat-soluble vitamin that includes a series of eight organic molecules: four tocopherols (α-, β-, δ-, and γ-tocopherol) and four tocotrienols (α-, β-, δ-, and γ-tocotrienol).

[0066] The tocopherol according to the invention is in particular chosen from α-tocopherol, β-tocopherol, δ-tocopherol and γ-tocopherol or their isomers and / or mixtures thereof.

[0067] The tocopherol according to the invention is in particular chosen from α-tocopherol, β-tocopherol, δ-tocopherol and γ-tocopherol or isomers thereof.

[0068] According to the invention, α-tocopherol is preferred, which exists in different forms: D-α-tocopherol, L-α-tocopherol and DL-α-tocopherol.

[0069] Particularly preferably according to the invention, the tocopherol is DL-α-tocopherol.

[0070] As an example, DL-alpha-tocopherol is sold under the trade name DL Alpha Tocopherol® by DSM Nutritional Products.

[0071] The tocopherol derivatives according to the invention are in particular chosen from esters such as tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, tocopherol linoleate and tocopherol nicotinate.

[0072] The composition according to the invention comprises from 0.01% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight and more preferentially from 0.1% to 0.2% by weight of tocopherol and / or a derivative thereof relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0073] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.01% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight and more preferentially from 0.1% to 0.2% by weight of tocopherol relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0074] Preferentially, the composition according to the invention comprises at least ascorbic acid and a tocopherol, preferably α-tocopherol.

[0075] In a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, in particular a cosmetic composition for making up and / or caring for keratinous materials, comprises: - With retinol; - with ethylenediamine disuccinate; - with ascorbic acid; - with tocopherol; Includes.

[0076] In particular, said tocopherol is selected from α-tocopherol, β-tocopherol, δ-tocopherol and γ-tocopherol or their isomers, such as D-α-tocopherol, L-α-tocopherol and DL-α-tocopherol, and / or mixtures thereof.

[0077] Preferably, the composition according to the invention, in particular the cosmetic composition, comprises retinol, at least one ethylenediamine disuccinate, preferably trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, ascorbic acid, and tocopherol, preferably DL-α-tocopherol.

[0078] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention, in particular the cosmetic composition according to the invention, comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition, at least: - 0.08% to 1.0% by weight of retinol, - 0.05% to 1.5% by weight of ethylenediamine disuccinate; - 0.1% to 1% by weight of ascorbic acid, - 0.05% to 1% by weight of DL-α-tocopherol, Includes.

[0079] Di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate In one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention may also include di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate.

[0080] Di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate or tetra-di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl hydroxyhydrocinnamate is a compound belonging to the group of cinnamic acid and its derivatives, and its CAS number is 6683-19-8.

[0081] One example is the compound di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate sold by BASF under the name Tinogard TT®.

[0082] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may contain from 0.01% to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 1.5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 0.3% by weight of the di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate compound relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0083] According to a more specific embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate compound and at least one ethylenediamine disuccinate, such that the weight ratio of di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate compound / ethylenediamine disuccinate is in the range of 0.1 to 3, in particular in the range of 0.2 to 1.5.

[0084] More particularly, according to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises retinol, at least one salt of ethylenediamine disuccinate, preferably trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, ascorbic acid, tocopherol, preferably DL-α-tocopherol, and di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate.

[0085] aqueous phase The compositions according to the invention generally comprise at least one aqueous phase and / or at least one oily phase constituting a cosmetically acceptable medium to which effective amounts of retinol, ethylenediamine disuccinate, ascorbic acid or an analogue thereof, and tocopherol or a derivative thereof are added to form a composition according to the invention, in particular a cosmetic composition.

[0086] Specifically, the aqueous phase is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 85% by weight, preferably from 30% to 80% by weight and more preferentially from 50% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0087] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is anhydrous, i.e. it contains less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 3% by weight and more particularly less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0088] The aqueous phase comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.

[0089] The term "water-soluble solvent" according to the present invention refers to a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility with water is greater than 50% by weight at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure).

[0090] The water-soluble solvents that can be used in the compositions of the present invention can also be volatile.

[0091] Among the water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of lower monohydric alcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, C3 and C4 ketones and C2 to C4 aldehydes.

[0092] According to one embodiment variant, the aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least one C2-C 32 It may include a polyol.

[0093] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyol" should be understood to mean any organic molecule containing at least two free hydroxyl groups.

[0094] Preferably, the polyol according to the invention is in liquid form at ambient temperature.

[0095] Polyols suitable for use in the present invention may be linear, branched, or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl-type compounds having at least two -OH groups, particularly at least three -OH groups, and more particularly at least four -OH groups on the alkyl chain.

[0096] Polyols that are particularly suitable for formulating the compositions according to the invention are in particular those containing from 2 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably from 3 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0097] The polyol may be selected from, for example, ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols such as glycerol oligomers, e.g. diglycerol, and polyethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.

[0098] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, said polyol is selected from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerol, polyethylene glycol and mixtures thereof.

[0099] According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one compound chosen from 1,3-propanediol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol and mixtures thereof.

[0100] According to one preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention also comprises at least glycerol.

[0101] oily phase When the composition used according to the invention comprises an oily phase, this preferably comprises at least one oil, in particular a cosmetic oil. It may also contain other fatty substances.

[0102] The term "oil" refers to a non-aqueous compound that is liquid at normal temperature (20° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and is immiscible with water.

[0103] An oily phase suitable for preparing a composition according to the invention, in particular a cosmetic composition, may comprise a hydrocarbon-based oil, a silicone oil, a fluorinated oil or a non-fluorinated oil or mixtures thereof.

[0104] The oil may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0105] They may be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. According to one embodiment variant, oils of silicone origin are preferred.

[0106] The term "non-volatile oil" refers to oils that have a vapor pressure of 10 -3 This refers to oil with a viscosity of less than mmHg (0.13 Pa).

[0107] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil containing at least one silicon atom and in particular containing at least one Si-O group.

[0108] The term "fluoro-oil" means an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.

[0109] The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil that contains primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms.

[0110] The oil may optionally contain oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid groups.

[0111] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "volatile oil" means any oil that, on contact with the skin, is capable of evaporating in less than one hour at normal temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oils are volatile cosmetic compounds, which are liquid at normal temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at normal temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular a vapor pressure of 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 -3 -300mmHg), particularly in the range of 1.3Pa - 13000Pa (0.01 - 100mmHg), and more particularly in the range of 1.3Pa - 1300Pa (0.01 - 10mmHg).

[0112] Volatile Oil The volatile oil may be a hydrocarbon-based oil or a silicone oil.

[0113] Among volatile hydrocarbon oils containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, especially branched C8 to C 16Alkanes, e.g. C8-C 16 Isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and oils sold, for example, under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched C8-C 16 Mention may be made of esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. In particular, the volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.

[0114] Volatile linear alkanes containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular 10 to 15 carbon atoms, more particularly 11 to 13 carbon atoms, such as n-dodecane (C 2 ), sold by Sasol under the references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, respectively. 12 ) and n-tetradecane (C 14 ), as well as their mixtures, the undecane-tridecane mixture, n-undecane (C 11 ) and n-tridecane (C 13 ) as well as mixtures thereof.

[0115] Volatile silicone oils include volatile linear silicone oils such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane, and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.

[0116] Volatile cyclic silicone oils include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, especially cyclohexasiloxane.

[0117] Fixed oil The non-volatile oils may in particular be chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, fluorinated oils and / or silicone oils.

[0118] As non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, mention may be made in particular of the following: - Hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, - Hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin; synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicapryl ether; synthetic esters, for example oils of formula R1COOR2, in which R1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid radical containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, especially branched, containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso that R1+R2 is greater than or equal to 10, such esters being in particular esters of alcohols with fatty acids, for example cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters, for example isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, for example isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, ricinoleic acid esters of alcohols or polyhydric alcohols, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, for example isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate and isononanoic acid esters, for example isononyl isononanoate and isotridecyl isononanoate, Polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate, - fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature and have a branched and / or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol and oleyl alcohol; - C 12 ~C 22 Higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof; Carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, - non-phenyl silicone oils, such as caprylyl methicone and phenyl silicone oils, such as phenyl trimethicone, phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethylsiloxydiphenyl siloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, diphenyl methyl diphenyl trisiloxane and 2-phenylethyl trimethyl siloxysilicate, dimethicone or phenyl trimethicone and trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane having a viscosity of less than or equal to 100 cSt and mixtures thereof; As well as mixtures of these various oils.

[0119] In particular, the composition may also comprise at least one non-volatile oil chosen in particular from non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon-based oils, non-volatile ester oils and mixtures thereof.

[0120] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-polar oil" refers to an oil having a solubility parameter δ a is 0 (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 The term "oil" refers to an oil in which

[0121] The definition and calculation of solubility parameters in the Hansen three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by C. M. Hansen: "The three dimensional solubility parameters", J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).

[0122] According to this Hansen space: - δ D characterizes the London dispersion forces that arise from the formation of dipoles induced by molecular interactions; - δ p characterizes the Debye interaction force acting between permanent dipoles and the Keesom interaction force acting between an induced dipole and a permanent dipole; - δ h characterize the strength of a particular interaction (hydrogen bonding, acid / base, donor / acceptor, etc.); - δ a is the formula: δ a =(δ p 2 +δ h2 ) 1 / 2 It is calculated by:

[0123] Parameter δ p , δ h , δ D , and δ a is (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 It is expressed in units.

[0124] In particular, the non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon-based oil does not contain any oxygen atoms.

[0125] Preferably, the non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oil may be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin. In particular, it may be chosen from: - liquid paraffin or its derivatives, - Liquid Vaseline, - naphthalene oil, Polybutylene, in particular Indopol H-100 (molar mass, i.e. M w = 965 g / mol), Indopol H-300 (M w =1340g / mol) and Indopol H-1500(M w = 2160 g / mol), - polyisobutenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes, in particular Parleam® sold by Nippon Oil Fats, Panalane H-300 E (M) sold or manufactured by Amoco w = 1340 g / mol), Viseal 20000 (M w = 6000 g / mol) and Rewopal PIB 1000 (M w = 1000g / mol), - decene / butene copolymers and polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, in particular Indopol L-14; - polydecene and hydrogenated polydecene, in particular Puresyn 10 (M), sold or manufactured by Mobil Chemicals; w = 723 g / mol) and Puresyn 150 (M w = 9200 g / mol), - and mixtures thereof.

[0126] The non-volatile oil may also be an ester oil, especially containing from 18 to 70 carbon atoms.

[0127] Examples include monoesters, diesters, or triesters.

[0128] The ester oils may in particular be hydroxylated.

[0129] The non-volatile ester oil may preferably be chosen from: monoesters containing in total 18 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular monoesters of formula R1COOR2, in which R1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, in particular branched, containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso that R1+R2 is greater than or equal to 18, such as, for example, Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C 12 ~C 15Alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, octanoate, decanoate or ricinoleate of alcohol or polyhydric alcohol, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyl palmitate rudecyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate or 2-diethylhexyl succinate (preferably these are esters of formula R1COOR2, in which R1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms, R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, especially branched, containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms, R1 and R2 being such that R1+R2 is 18 or more. Preferably, the esters contain a total of 18 to 40 carbon atoms. Preferred monoesters include isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate and / or 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate); diesters, in particular diesters containing a total of 18 to 60 carbon atoms, in particular a total of 18 to 50 carbon atoms (in particular diesters of dicarboxylic acids with monoalcohols, such as preferably diisostearyl malate, or glycol diesters of monocarboxylic acids, such as neopentyl glycol diheptanoate or polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, in particular the compounds sold under the name Dermol DGDIS by the company Alzo, can be used); triesters, in particular those containing in total 35 to 70 carbon atoms, in particular triesters of tricarboxylic acids, such as triisostearyl citrate or tridecyl trimellitate, or glycol triesters of monobasic carboxylic acids, such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate; - tetraesters, in particular those having a total carbon number in the range from 35 to 70, such as pentaerythritol or polyglycerol tetraesters of monocarboxylic acids, such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, glyceryl tris(2-decyl)tetradecanoate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetrakis(2-decyl)tetradecanoate; polyesters obtained by condensation of unsaturated fatty acid dimers and / or trimers with diols, such as those described in patent application FR-A-0 853 634, and in particular those obtained by condensation of dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol (in this respect, mention may be made in particular of the polymer sold under the name Viscoplast 14436H by Biosynthis (INCI name: (Dilinoleic acid / butanediol) Copolymer) or of copolymers of polyols and dimer diacids and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA); - esters and polyesters of dimer diols with mono- or dicarboxylic acids, for example esters of dimer diols with fatty acids and dimer diols with dimer dicarboxylic acids, in particular unsaturated fatty acids, in particular unsaturated C8-C 34 , especially C 12 ~C 22 , especially C 16 ~C 20 , more specifically C 18 esters with those obtainable from dimer dicarboxylic acids obtained by dimerization of fatty acids, such as the esters of dilinoleic acid and dimer dilinoleyl alcohol, such as those sold under the trade names Lusplan DD-DA5 (registered trademark) and DD-DA7 (registered trademark) by Nippon Fine Chemical; - (vinylpyrrolidone / 1-hexadecene) copolymers, such as the product sold under the name Antaron V-216 by the company ISP (also known as Ganex V216) (Mw = 7300 g / mol); - Hydrocarbon vegetable oils, such as fatty acid triglycerides (liquid at room temperature), in particular triglycerides of fatty acids containing 7 to 40 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides or jojoba oil (in particular saturated triglycerides, such as caprylic / capric triglyceride, glyceryl triheptanoate, glyceryl trioctanoate and C 18~36 Mention may be made of acid triglycerides, such as those sold under the reference DUB TGI 24 by Stearineries Dubois, as well as unsaturated triglycerides, such as castor oil, olive oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil, etc.); - and mixtures thereof.

[0130] Other fatty substances which may be present in the oily phase are, for example, fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; waxes, such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba wax or candelilla wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax or microcrystalline wax, ceresin or ozokerite, and synthetic waxes, such as polyethylene wax and Fischer-Tropsch wax; silicone resins, such as trifluoromethyl-C1-C4 alkyl dimethicone and trifluoropropyl dimethicone; and silicone elastomers, such as the products sold under the names KSG by Shin-Etsu, Trefil or BY29 by Dow Corning or Gransil by Grant Industries.

[0131] These fatty substances can be selected in various ways by those skilled in the art with the aim of preparing a composition having the desired properties, for example in terms of consistency or texture.

[0132] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a fatty phase comprising at least one fatty substance.

[0133] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil, and preferably at least one apolar hydrocarbon-based oil.

[0134] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least two non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils and one non-volatile ester oil.

[0135] According to certain preferred embodiments, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile fatty acid triglyceride, one non-volatile carbonate oil and one non-volatile ester oil.

[0136] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least caprylic / capric triglyceride, dicaprylyl carbonate and diisopropyl sebacate.

[0137] Preferably, the oily phase may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 5% to 50% by weight, preferably from 10% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0138] Sunscreen The composition according to the invention may contain one or more UV filters.

[0139] Thus, according to one preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one UV filter.

[0140] In particular, UV filters suitable for use in the present invention are selected from water-soluble UV filters, fat-soluble UV filters, insoluble UV filters and mixtures thereof. Among these UV filters, a distinction can be made between water-soluble organic filters, fat-soluble organic filters, insoluble organic filters and inorganic filters.

[0141] The term "water-soluble UV filter" refers to any compound capable of being completely dissolved or miscible in molecular form in an aqueous phase, or capable of being dissolved in colloidal form (e.g., micellar form) in an aqueous phase, for filtering ultraviolet radiation.

[0142] The term "lipid-soluble UV filter" means any compound for filtering ultraviolet radiation that is capable of being completely dissolved or miscible in molecular form in the fatty phase or that is capable of being dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in the fatty phase.

[0143] The term "insoluble UV filter" refers to any compound for blocking ultraviolet radiation that has a solubility of less than 0.5% by weight in water and less than 0.5% by weight in most organic solvents, such as liquid paraffin, fatty alkyl benzoates and fatty acid triglycerides, such as Miglyol 812® sold by Dynamit Nobel. The solubility is measured at 70° C. and is defined as the amount of product dissolved after suspending an excess of solid in the solvent and returning to room temperature to equilibrate. It can be easily evaluated in the laboratory.

[0144] The term "water-soluble organic UVA filter" means any organic compound capable of being completely dissolved or miscible in molecular form in an aqueous phase, or capable of being dissolved in colloidal form (e.g., micellar form) in an aqueous phase, for filtering UVA radiation in the wavelength range of 320-400 nm.

[0145] By way of example, water-soluble organic UVA filters which can be used according to the invention include benzene-1,4-di(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic) acid (INCI name: terephthalylidene dicamphorsulfonic acid) and its various salts, compounds containing at least two benzazolyl groups carrying a sulfonic group, in particular 1,4-bis(benzimidazolyl)phenylene-3,3',5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid (INCI name: phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonic acid disodium) or its salts, such as those sold under the name Neoheliopan AP® by the company Symrise, and benzophenone compounds containing at least one sulfonic acid group, such as oxybenzone-4, oxybenzone-5 or oxybenzone-9.

[0146] The term "water-soluble organic UVB filter" means any organic compound capable of being completely dissolved or miscible in molecular form in an aqueous phase, or capable of being dissolved in colloidal form (e.g., micellar form) in an aqueous phase, for filtering UVB radiation in the wavelength range of 280-320 nm.

[0147] By way of example, water-soluble organic UVB screening agents that can be used in accordance with the present invention include water-soluble cinnamic acid derivatives, such as ferulic acid or 3-methoxy-4-hydroxycinnamic acid, water-soluble benzylidene camphor compounds, water-soluble phenylbenzimidazole compounds, water-soluble p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) compounds, water-soluble salicylic acid compounds, and mixtures thereof.

[0148] The term "lipid-soluble organic UVB filter" means any organic compound capable of completely dissolving or miscible in molecular form in a fatty phase, or capable of dissolving in colloidal form (e.g., micellar form) in a fatty phase, for filtering UVB radiation in the wavelength range of 280-320 nm. Some of the lipid-soluble organic UV filters are liquid at room temperature.

[0149] By way of example, liposoluble organic UV filters which can be used according to the invention include cinnamic acid derivatives, anthranilates, salicylic acid derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, camphor derivatives, benzophenone derivatives, β,β-diphenylacrylate derivatives, triazine derivatives, benzotriazole derivatives, benzalmalonate derivatives, in particular those cited in US Pat. No. 5,624,663, imidazolines, p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives, benzoxazole derivatives, screening polymers and screening silicones, such as, in particular, those described in patent application WO 93 / 04665, as described in patent application EP 0 832 642, EP 1 027 883, EP 1 300 137 and DE 10 162 844. dimers based on a-alkylstyrenes, for example as described in patent application DE 19855649 A1, 4,4-diarylbutadienes, as described in patent applications EP 0 967 200 A1, DE 19746654 A1, DE 19755649 A1, EP 1 008 586 A1, EP 1 133 980 A1 and EP 1 133 981 A1, US Pat. No. 4,195,999, patent applications WO 2004 / 006878 A1, WO 2008 / 090066 A1, WO 2011113718 A1 and WO 2009027258 A1 and also in the document IP 2009-02-23, Examples of the merocyanine derivatives, merocyanines and mixtures thereof described in IP COM Journal No. 000179675D published on Apr. 29, 2009, IP COM Journal No. 000182396D published on Nov. 12, 2009, and IP COM Journal No. IPCOM000011179D published on Mar. 4, 2004 may include merocyanine derivatives, merocyanines and mixtures thereof described in IP COM Journal No. 000179675D published on Apr. 29, 2009, IP COM Journal No. 000182396D published on Nov. 12, 2009, and IP COM Journal No. IPCOM000011179D published on Mar. 4, 2004.

[0150] Preferably, the fat-soluble organic UV filter may be chosen from dibenzoylmethane derivatives, such as butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane or avobenzone, in particular sold under the name Parsol® 1789 by DSM Nutritional Products, salicylic acid derivatives, such as homosalate, sold in particular under the name Eusolex® HMS by Rona / EM Industries or ethylhexyl salicylate, sold in particular under the name Neo Heliopan® OS by Symrise, β,β-diphenylacrylate derivatives, such as octocrylene, sold in particular under the name Uvinul® N539 by BASF or etocrylene, sold in particular under the name Uvinul® N35 by BASF, and mixtures thereof.

[0151] By way of example, insoluble organic UV filters that can be used according to the present inventors include organic UV filters based on oxalic acid anilides, triazines, benzotriazoles, vinylamides, cinnamic acid amides, benzazoles and / or benzofurans, benzothiophenes, or indoles, arylvinylene ketones, phenylene bisbenzoxazinone derivatives, amides, sulfonamides or carbamates of acrylonitrile, or mixtures thereof.

[0152] As an example, mention may be made of inorganic UV filters that can be used according to the invention, such as metal oxide pigments, for example metal oxide particles having an average primary particle size of less than or equal to 0.50 μm, more preferably between 0.005 and 0.50 μm, even more preferably between 0.01 and 0.2 μm, even better between 0.01 and 0.1 μm and most preferably between 0.015 and 0.05 μm.

[0153] The term "primary size" refers to the size of the non-agglomerated particles.

[0154] The sunscreen may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1.0% to 25% by weight, preferably from 3.0% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0155] Adjuvants Surfactants According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one surfactant.

[0156] The surfactant can be selected from nonionic, anionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof. For the definition of the emulsifying and functional properties of surfactants, reference can be made to Kirk-Othmer's Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, volume 22, pages 333-432, 3rd Edition, 1979, Wiley, and in particular for anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants, pages 347-377 of this reference.

[0157] Nonionic Surfactants Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant.

[0158] The non-ionic surfactants may be chosen in particular from alkyl and polyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide), oxyalkylenated alcohols, alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of poly(ethylene oxide), optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan, optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of sorbitan, alkyl and polyalkyl glycosides or alkyl and polyalkyl polyglycosides, in particular alkyl and polyalkyl glucosides or alkyl and polyalkyl polyglucosides, alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sucrose, optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerol, optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of glycerol, optionally polyoxyethylenated, gemini surfactants, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0159] The oxyalkylenated, in particular oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated alcohols preferably used are those which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units, in particular those which contain from 20 to 100 oxyethylene units, in particular fatty alcohols, in particular C8 to C 24 , preferably C 12 ~C 18 which may or may not be ethoxylated, for example stearyl alcohol ethoxylated with 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA name: Steareth-20), for example Brij 78® sold by Uniqema, cetearyl alcohol ethoxylated with 30 oxyethylene units (CTFA name: Ceteareth-30) and C ethoxylated with 7 oxyethylene units. 12 ~C 15 Mixture of fatty alcohols (CTFA name: (C 12~15) Pareth-7), for example the product sold under the name Neodol 25-7® by Shell Chemicals; or oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated) alcohols, especially those containing 1 to 15 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units, in particular ethoxylated C8-C 24 , preferably C 12 ~C 18 Fatty alcohols, for example stearyl alcohol ethoxylated with two oxyethylene units (CTFA name: Steareth-2), such as Brij 72® sold by Uniqema.

[0160] Among the alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan, optionally polyoxyethylenated, that are preferably used are those in which the number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranges from 0 to 100. Examples include sorbitan laurate 4 or 20 EO adducts, in particular polysorbate 20 (or polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaurate), such as the products Tween® 20 or Polysorbate 60 sold by Uniqema, sorbitan palmitate 20 EO adducts, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan stearate 20 EO adducts, sorbitan oleate 20 EO adducts or the products Cremophor® (RH40, RH60, etc.) from BASF. Mention may also be made of the mixture of sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate sold under the name Arlacel® 2121U-FL by Croda.

[0161] The alkyl and polyalkyl glucosides or alkyl and polyalkyl polyglucosides preferably used are those which contain an alkyl group containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 18, more preferably 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and a glucoside group, preferably 1 to 5, in particular 1, 2 or 3 glucoside units. The alkyl polyglucosides are, for example, decyl glucoside (alkyl C9 / C 11- polyglucosides (1.4)), such as the product sold under the name Mydol 10® by Kao Chemicals or the product sold under the name Plantacare 2000UP® by Henkel and the product sold under the name Oramix NS 10® by SEPPIC; (caprylyl / capryl) glucoside, such as the product sold under the name Plantacare KE3711® by Cognis or the product sold under the name Oramix CG 110® by SEPPIC; lauryl glucoside, such as the product sold under the name Plantacare 1200UP® by Henkel or the product sold under the name Plantaren 1200N® by Henkel; coconut alkyl glucoside, such as the product sold under the name Plantacare 818 by Henkel. caprylyl glucoside, for example the product sold under the name Plantacare 810 UP® by the company Cognis; a mixture of arachidyl glucosyl and behenyl alcohol and arachidyl alcohol sold under the name Montanov® 202 by the company SEPPIC, whose INCI name is arachidyl alcohol (and) behenyl alcohol (and) arachidyl glucoside; and mixtures thereof.

[0162] Anionic Surfactants Anionic surfactants include alkyl ether sulfates, carboxylates, amino acid derivatives, sulfonates, isethionates, taurates, sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, phosphates and alkyl phosphates, polypeptides, C 10 ~C 30 , especially C 16 ~C 25 They may be selected from metal salts of fatty acids, particularly metal salts of stearic acid and behenic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0163] Cationic Surfactants Cationic surfactants include alkyl imidazolidinium, such as isostearyl ethylimidonium ethosulfate, (C 12~30 Alkyl)-tri(C 1~4 The alkyl group may be selected from ammonium salts such as N,N,N-trimethyl-1-docosaminium chloride (or behentrimonium chloride).

[0164] Amphoteric surfactants The compositions according to the invention may also contain one or more amphoteric surfactants, for example N-acylamino acids such as N-alkylamino acetates and disodium cocoamphodiacetate, and amine oxides such as stearamine oxide, or silicone surfactants, for example dimethicone copolyol phosphate, such as the product sold under the name Pecosil PS 100® by Phoenix Chemical.

[0165] Silicone Surfactants The composition may also contain at least one silicone surfactant. By way of example, dimethicone copolyol or dimethicone copolyol benzoate may be mentioned as a non-ionic surfactant having an HLB value of 8 or more at 25° C., used alone or in a mixture, and cyclomethicone / dimethicone copolyol mixture may be mentioned as a non-ionic surfactant having an HLB value of less than 8 at 25° C., used alone or in a mixture.

[0166] The surfactant may be present in the composition according to the invention in a proportion ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0167] Gelling and thickening agents Depending on the viscosity of the composition to be obtained, one or more thickening and / or gelling agents, in particular hydrophilic, ie water-soluble or water-dispersible, can be incorporated into the composition.

[0168] According to a preferred embodiment, the gelling agent is chosen from synthetic polymeric gelling agents, crosslinked acrylic homopolymers or copolymers, associative polymers, in particular associative polymers of the polyurethane type, polyacrylamides and crosslinked and / or neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, modified or non-modified carboxyvinyl polymers and mixtures thereof, in particular those defined below.

[0169] Examples of hydrophilic gelling agents include modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, such as Carbopol® (CTFA name: Carbomer) and Pemulen® (CTFA name: Acrylates / Alkyl Acrylates (C 10~30 )) crosspolymers), polyacrylamide, optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, such as, for example, poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate) sold under the name Hostacerin® AMPS by Hoechst, anionic copolymers of crosslinked acrylamide and AMPS in the form of W / O emulsions, such as, for example, the products sold under the name Sepigel® 305 by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide / (C Mention may also be made of those sold under the names 13,14) Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) and Simulgel® 600 (CTFA name: (Acrylamide / Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate) Copolymer / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80), polysaccharide biopolymers such as modified cellulose, carrageenan, gellan gum, agar, xanthan gum, alginic acid-based compounds, in particular sodium alginate, scleroglucan gum, guar gum, inulin, pullulan, cassia gum, karaya gum, konjac gum, tragacanth gum, tara gum, acacia gum or gum arabic, and mixtures thereof.

[0170] Hydrophilic polymeric gelling agents suitable for use in the present invention may be natural or naturally derived.

[0171] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "naturally derived" refers to a polymeric gelator obtained by modification of a natural polymeric gelator.

[0172] These gelling agents can be particulate or non-particulate.

[0173] More specifically, these gelling agents, which are classified as polysaccharides, can be divided into several types.

[0174] Thus, polysaccharides suitable for use in the present invention may be homopolysaccharides, such as fructans, glucans, galactans and mannans, or heteropolysaccharides, such as hemicelluloses.

[0175] Likewise, they may be linear polysaccharides such as pullulan or branched polysaccharides such as gum arabic and amylopectin or mixed polysaccharides such as starch.

[0176] More specifically, polysaccharides suitable for use in the present invention can be distinguished according to whether they are starchy or not. Representative examples of starchy polysaccharides include, most particularly, native starches, modified starches and granular starches.

[0177] In general, the non-starch polysaccharides may be selected from polysaccharides produced by microorganisms; polysaccharides isolated from algae and polysaccharides of higher plants, such as homogeneous polysaccharides, in particular cellulose and its derivatives, such as hydroxyethylcellulose, or fructosans, heterogeneous polysaccharides, such as gum arabic, galactomannans, glucomannans and pectins and their derivatives; and mixtures thereof.

[0178] The thickening agent and / or gelling agent may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.05% to 5.0% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 4.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0179] Filler The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one filler.

[0180] The fillers may be selected from pigments, titanium oxide, red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, boron nitride, pearlescent agents, synthetic or natural mica, pearlescent agents comprising mica and titanium oxide, powdered silica, talc, polyamide particles, in particular those sold under the name Orgasol® by the company Atochem, powdered polyethylene, microspheres based on acrylic copolymers, for example those made from ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymers sold under the name Polytrap® by Dow Corning, expanded powders, for example hollow microspheres, in particular those sold under the name Expancel® by the company Kemanord Plast or under the name Micropearl® F 80 ED by the company Matsumoto, silicone resin microbeads, for example those sold under the name Tospearl® by the company Toshiba Silicone, and mixtures thereof.

[0181] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises boron nitride.

[0182] Such fillers may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 5.0% by weight, preferably from 1.0% to 3.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0183] Activator The compositions according to the invention may contain additional active agents, in particular anti-ageing active agents other than the retinol used according to the invention.

[0184] Examples of anti-aging active agents that may be mentioned include sodium hyaluronate, n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid, adenosine, c-β-d-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and the sodium salt of (3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentyl)acetic acid.

[0185] Such active agents may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.05% to 5.0% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0186] As mentioned above, the composition according to the invention is preferably free of compounds that may be harmful to the human body and / or the environment, i.e. it contains less than 0.2% by weight, in particular less than 0.1% by weight, preferably less than 0.05% by weight, more preferentially less than 0.01% by weight, or even completely free of compounds that may be harmful to the human body and / or the environment, in particular it does not contain butylhydroxytoluene (BHT) and / or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) or their salts.

[0187] Thus, the composition according to the invention is in particular free of butylhydroxytoluene (BHT) and / or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) or salts thereof, and preferably completely free of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid or salts thereof.

[0188] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one additive chosen from auxiliaries conventionally used in the cosmetics field, such as preservatives, fragrances, dyes, polar additives, film-forming polymers, pH regulators (acids or bases), cosmetic active agents, such as moisturizers, scar-forming agents, agents for combating oily skin and / or anti-staining agents, and mixtures thereof.

[0189] Needless to say, the skilled artisan will take care in selecting this or these optional additional compounds and / or their amounts so that the advantageous properties of the compositions according to the invention are not or substantially not adversely affected by the envisaged addition.

[0190] composition As mentioned above, the compositions according to the invention can be cosmetic and / or dermatological, preferably cosmetic.

[0191] The compositions according to the invention are generally suitable for topical application to the skin and therefore generally comprise a physiologically acceptable medium, ie a medium that is compatible with the skin.

[0192] This is preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, i.e. one that has a pleasant color, odor and feel and does not cause any unacceptable discomfort, i.e. stinging, tightness or redness, that would tend to dissuade the user from applying the composition.

[0193] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may be in any presentation form conventionally used for the intended use of cosmetics, in particular for topical application.

[0194] The compositions for topical application to keratinous materials, and in particular to the skin or its integuments, may in particular be in the form of aqueous or oily solutions or dispersions of lotion or serum type, in the form of emulsions of milk type with a liquid or semi-liquid consistency, obtained by dispersing a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (oil-in-water type) or vice versa (water-in-oil type), or in the form of suspensions or emulsions of aqueous or anhydrous gel or cream type with a soft consistency, or in the form of microcapsules or microparticles, or in the form of vesicular dispersions of ionic and / or non-ionic type. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.

[0195] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, an emulsified gel or an oily solution.

[0196] In particular, the pH of the composition according to the invention is in the range from 3 to 8. Preferably, the pH of the composition is in the range from 4 to 7, and more preferentially in the range from 5 to 7.

[0197] The compositions according to the invention can be prepared according to techniques well known to those skilled in the art.

[0198] Intended Use of the Composition The composition according to the invention may be in the form of a cosmetic composition for the care and / or make-up of keratin materials, in particular the body or the face, preferably the face.

[0199] These compositions may constitute cleansing, protective, treating or caring creams for the face, hands or body, such as day creams, night creams, make-up creams, foundation creams, sun protection creams, liquid foundations, protective or caring body milks, sun protection emulsions, lotions or blister treatment products.

[0200] The composition according to the invention can therefore be used as a face and / or body care product and / or sun protection product having a liquid or semi-liquid consistency, such as an oil, a milk, a more or less smooth cream or a gel cream.

[0201] Preferably, the compositions according to the inventor are in the form of cosmetic compositions for the care of keratinous materials, in particular the skin of the body or face, preferably the face.

[0202] In particular, the composition according to the invention may be in the form of a composition for the anti-aging care of the skin of the body or face, in particular the face.

[0203] According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention may be in the form of a composition for making up keratinous materials, in particular the skin of the body or the face, preferably the face.

[0204] Thus, according to a sub-aspect of this embodiment, the composition of the present invention may be in the form of a makeup base composition for makeup. The composition of the present invention may be in the form of a foundation.

[0205] According to yet another subaspect of this embodiment, the composition of the present invention may be in the form of a lip product, in particular a lipstick.

[0206] According to yet another sub-aspect of this embodiment, the composition of the present invention may be in the form of an eyelash product, in particular an eyebrow pencil.

[0207] Compositions of this kind are in particular prepared according to the general knowledge of the person skilled in the art.

[0208] The present invention therefore also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials, preferably for caring for keratinous materials, in particular the skin of the body and / or face.

[0209] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for making up and / or caring for keratinous materials, in particular the skin and / or lips, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratinous materials a composition as defined above.

[0210] Preferably, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for caring for keratinous materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, comprising at least one step of applying a composition as defined above to said keratinous materials.

[0211] In particular, the compositions according to the invention can be used to combat the signs of skin aging.

[0212] The present application therefore also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for combating the signs of skin ageing.

[0213] The composition can be applied to the skin by hand or with an applicator.

[0214] Throughout this specification, including the claims, the term "comprising a" is to be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one," unless otherwise specified.

[0215] The expressions "between... and...", "comprises from... to...", "formed from... to...", and "ranging from... to..." should be understood to include the limits, unless otherwise specified.

[0216] The present invention is further illustrated by the following examples, in which the amounts given are expressed as percentages by weight unless otherwise specified. EXAMPLES

[0217] Working Example Measurement and evaluation methods Stability measurements The stability test of the compositions was carried out according to the guidelines imposed by the standard ISO / TR 18811:2018. It is carried out on conditioned formulations in 30 ml opaque enamel-coated glass jars.

[0218] The measurements are carried out 24 hours and one month after compounding and can be carried out at three different temperatures, specifically 20°C, 4°C and 45°C.

[0219] Measurement of decomposition rate After storage at 4° C. and 45° C. for 1 month (T=1 month), the decomposition rate is measured by analyzing the retinol remaining in the composition after storage. The decomposition rate is determined using HPLC measurement as a percentage of the theoretical initial percentage or as a percentage of the initial percentage measured by HPLC. The theoretical amount corresponds to the theoretical initial retinol content.

[0220] Determination of the sensory properties of the composition The appearance, color and odor of the formulations in jars at T=24 hours at 20° C. and in jars at T=1 month stored at 20° C., 4° C. and 45° C. are judged by a panel of three people.

[0221] If the composition exhibits a so-called "raw material odor", this is distinct from the odor of oxidized oil (rancid odor) and can be masked with perfume.

[0222] Measurement at 20℃ Store 30 ml opaque wide-mouth glass bottles in individual cupboards at room temperature (20°C).

[0223] Measurement at 4℃ The formulations in 30 ml opaque wide-mouth glass bottles at 4° C. are stored at 4° C. in a Liebbern Gastro Line refrigerator supplied by Manumesure.

[0224] Measurement at 45℃ Store in the oven at 45°C for one month using a Jouvan oven supplied by Manumesure. Place a 30ml opaque jar in the oven and leave for the required time.

[0225] Colorimetric property evaluation The colorimetric properties of the compositions were evaluated according to the following procedure.

[0226] The color of the compositions was evaluated after making a 50 μm thin film on a contrast card using a film coater.

[0227] Color measurements were then taken at two points on the film using a Minolta CM2600D spectrophotometer.

[0228] The results are expressed in the (L*,a*,b*) system, where L* represents lightness, a* represents the red-green axis (-a*=green, +a*=red) and b* represents the yellow-blue axis (-b*=blue, +b*=yellow). Thus, a* and b* represent the hue of the compound.

[0229] For each formulation, color measurements were taken at t=0 at 20° C. and then again at t=1 month (after storage at 45° C.).

[0230] The color difference ΔE* of each composition was calculated according to the following formula: (ΔE*) 2 =(ΔL*) 2 +(Δa*) 2 +(Δb*) 2 ΔL*=L*(formulation at t=0)-L*(formulation at t=1 month) Δa*=a*(formulation at t=0)-a*(formulation at t=1 month) Δb*=b*(formulation at t=0)-b*(formulation at t=1 month)

[0231] The higher the ΔE* value, the greater the color change after one month.

[0232] Example 1 Compositions I1 to I5 according to the invention and compositions CC1 to CC4 outside the invention are prepared in the weight ratios detailed in the table below. The values ​​are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition. The values ​​are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0233] [Table 1]

[0234] [Table 2]

[0235] [Table 3]

[0236] [Table 4]

[0237] [Table 5]

[0238] [Table 6]

[0239] [Table 7]

[0240] [Table 8]

[0241] Preparation procedure of the composition Heat Phase A ingredients to a temperature of 70°C-75°C using a Minilab equipped with a planetary stirrer and emulsifying stirrer.

[0242] Heat the ingredients of phase B in a beaker on a hot plate to a temperature of 75°C and then pour into phase A.

[0243] The mixture is emulsified for 10 minutes (emulsification stirrer 2000 rpm, planetary stirrer 30 rpm).

[0244] Add phase C and mix for 10 minutes (emulsifier 3600 rpm, planetary stirrer 40 rpm).

[0245] Turn off the heat and allow the mixture to cool. Add water.

[0246] The mixture is then depressurized to -0.60 Pa, the emulsifying agitator is adjusted to 2400 rpm, and the planetary agitator is adjusted to 50 rpm.

[0247] When the mixture reaches a temperature of 40° C., sodium hydroxide is added and the vacuum is adjusted to −0.40 Pa.

[0248] When the mixture reaches a temperature of 37°C, the filler is added.

[0249] While maintaining the vacuum at -0.60 Pa, the emulsification agitator speed is increased to 2500 rpm and the planetary agitator speed is reduced to 40 rpm.

[0250] Add the other phases.

[0251] Once the mixture reaches a temperature of 33° C., shut off the Minilab and transfer the mixture to a beaker.

[0252] The addition of retinol is carried out in a glove box under an inert atmosphere (nitrogen). The appropriate amount of retinol is weighed and added to the beaker while stirring with a Rayneri at 650-700 rpm for 10 minutes.

[0253] While still under an inert atmosphere, the formulations are conditioned in sealed 30 ml wide-mouth glass bottles and 100 ml pillboxes. The items are placed in an air lock and put on a vacuum cycle to evacuate the nitrogen. The conditioned formulations are then recovered.

[0254] Determining the Stability of Retinol in the Composition The measurement results of the decomposition rates of compositions I1 to I5 according to the present invention and compositions CC1 to CC4 other than the invention are shown in Table 3 below.

[0255] [Table 9]

[0256] The loss of retinol in compositions I1-I5 is significantly less than that observed in compositions CC1-CC4, which contain EDTA and BHT or do not contain the combination of ethylenediamine disuccinate, ascorbic acid and tocopherol.

[0257] Thus, the results indicate that the composition according to the present invention is more stable than the non-inventive composition.

Claims

1. A composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, in particular a cosmetic composition for making up and / or caring for keratinous materials, comprising at least - with retinol; - ethylenediamine disuccinate; at least one compound chosen from ascorbic acid or its analogues; - with tocopherol or its derivatives; A composition comprising:

2. 2. The composition according to claim 1, comprising from 0.02% to 5.0% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3.0% by weight, in particular from 0.08% to 1.0% by weight and more preferentially from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight of retinol relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, comprising from 0.01% to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 1.5% by weight and more preferentially from 0.07% to 0.3% by weight of ethylenediamine disuccinate relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. 4. The composition according to claim 1, comprising preferably from 0.05% to 0.50%, preferably from 0.1% to 0.5%, and more particularly from 0.1% to 0.2% by weight of ascorbic acid or an analogue thereof relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. 5. The composition according to claim 1, comprising from 0.05% to 1%, preferably from 0.1% to 1%, and more particularly from 0.1% to 0.2% by weight of tocopherol or a derivative thereof relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the ascorbic acid or analogue thereof is selected from ascorbic acid, ascorbyl palmitate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, preferably ascorbic acid.

7. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, comprising ascorbic acid.

8. 8. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the tocopherol and its derivatives are selected from tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, tocopherol linoleate, tocopherol nicotinate, α-tocopherol, β-tocopherol, δ-tocopherol and γ-tocopherol or their isomers, and the tocopherol and its derivatives are preferentially α-tocopherol and preferably DL-α-tocopherol.

9. 9. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, comprising a tocopherol, preferably selected from α-tocopherol, β-tocopherol, δ-tocopherol, γ-tocopherol or their isomers and mixtures thereof; the tocopherol is preferentially α-tocopherol; the tocopherol is preferably DL-α-tocopherol.

10. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 9, further comprising di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate.

11. 11. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 0.01% to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 1.5% by weight and more preferentially from 0.1% to 0.3% by weight of di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein the ethylenediamine disuccinate is selected from potassium, sodium, ammonium and amine salts of ethylenediamine disuccinic acid, preferably trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate.

13. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that it comprises less than 0.2% by weight, in particular less than 0.1% by weight, preferably less than 0.05% by weight and more preferentially less than 0.01% by weight, or is completely free of butylhydroxytoluene (BHT) and / or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) or their salts.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also contains at least one UV filter.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also contains at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil.

16. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15, characterized in that it also contains at least glycerol.

17. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16, characterized in that it is a cosmetic composition for caring for keratinous materials.

18. A cosmetic method for making up and / or caring for, preferably caring for, keratinous materials, in particular the skin and / or lips, comprising at least one step of applying a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17 to said keratinous materials.

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