Cosmetic or dermatological composition for cleansing and / or removing make-up, comprising succinic acid for preventing, reducing or eliminating skin imperfections, treating skin disorders and preventing, treating and suppressing hyper-seborrheic conditions of scalp

Abstract

To provide a cosmetic or dermatological composition for cleansing and / or removing make-up from keratin materials.SOLUTION: A composition comprises: water; a mixture of succinic acid and gluconic acid in an amount of 0.5 to 5 wt.% based on the total weight of the composition; 1 to 6 surfactants selected from an anionic surfactant and an amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, in an amount of 5 to 50 wt.% based on the total weight of the composition; and at least one other component selected from a sebum absorber, a preservative, a gelling agent, a sensate agent, a humectant, an emollient, a moisturizer, a dye, a film-forming agent, an occlusive agent, a conditioning agent, and a fragrance, in an amount of 0.1 to 10 wt.% based on the total weight of the composition.SELECTED DRAWING: None

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition for dermatological and / or cosmetic use that is capable of preferably washing, in other words cleansing and / or removing make-up from keratinous materials, preferably the skin, scalp and hair, preventing, reducing or eliminating skin imperfections, and treating skin disorders such as acne, and preventing, treating and inhibiting hyperseborrheic conditions of the scalp. [Background technology]

[0002] skin diseases

[0003] Seborrhea is a biological condition, hyperseborrhea and hyperkeratosis are biological skin disorders, and all three result in the appearance of skin defects.

[0004] Seborrhea and hyperseborrhea are related to sebum secretion. Normal biological function of skin requires the secretion of sebum by sebaceous glands located in the dermis. Sebum forms a lipid film on the surface of the epidermis and hair. This film has a protective function by protecting the skin from dryness, smoothing hair, and promoting anaerobic and lipophilic microorganisms, which is called seborrhea. Excessive sebum secretion can lead to the appearance of skin defects, which is called hyperseborrhea. Skin defects resulting from seborrhea are oily skin, or even oily and shiny skin, enlarged pores, thick skin texture, and redness.

[0005] Hyperkeratosis is a biological disorder that also causes skin defects. This disorder is generally caused by androgen hormones and consists of increased synthesis of keratinocytes. Skin defects resulting from hyperkeratosis include a loss of skin tone brightness and dull skin.

[0006] In addition to the aforementioned skin defects, hyperseborrhea and hyperkeratosis, either independently or together, can simultaneously cause diseases such as acne. Acne is a chronic inflammatory disease of the pilosebaceous follicles that affects most adolescents and adults. The disease varies in its symptoms and severity. The common feature is the retention of sebum, which is clinically reflected as a specific underlying lesion.

[0007] Hyperkeratosis and hyperseborrhea, together or separately, cause blockage of hair follicles (i.e., pores in the skin). This blockage can be seen through the appearance of skin conditions known as "comedones," which are either open, also called "blackheads," i.e., when the sebum remains exposed to the air and turns black due to oxidation, or closed, also called "whiteheads," i.e., when the sebum is not exposed to the air (i.e., when the blockage is due to hyperkeratosis).

[0008] In these comedones, the proliferation of bacteria of the genus Propionobacterium, particularly Propionobacterium acnes, induces an inflammatory response, causing redness and discomfort to the touch. The bacterial proliferation can lead to superficial inflammatory lesions (papules and pustules) and deep inflammatory lesions (nodules).

[0009] Acne is therefore a disease of the pilosebaceous follicle involving four closely related factors: hyperseborrhea, hyperkeratosis, proliferation of Propionobacterium acnes, and inflammation.

[0010] Daily hygiene and removal of make-up contribute to reducing the appearance of imperfections and skin disorders. Meticulous hygiene may be enough to reduce or even eradicate the phenomenon.

[0011] Skin imperfections can be due to insufficient makeup removal (cleansing that is not suitable for the skin type).

[0012] Scalp and hair disorders

[0013] The scalp, like the rest of the skin tissue, is a continuously regenerating epidermis containing hair follicles and sebaceous glands, which together form the pilosebaceous follicle.

[0014] Sebaceous glands secrete sebum, which is discharged into pilosebaceous follicles. Sebaceous secretion is a normal phenomenon and is beneficial to skin and hair. Sebum forms a lipid film on the surface of the epidermis and hair. This film protects the skin from dryness, lubricates hair, and has a bactericidal function by promoting anaerobic and lipophilic microorganisms. Therefore, sebum protects the scalp and lubricates it, thereby providing hair with luster.

[0015] Oily hair is primarily due to increased sebum secretion by the sebaceous glands on the scalp. Called hyperseborrhea, this phenomenon is associated with unpleasant sensations, discomfort, cosmetic problems, and even skin disorders.

[0016] Excessive seborrhea of ​​the scalp leads to the appearance of oily hair and its cosmetic defects. The hair is weak, dull, lacks volume, and has a generally greasy appearance, especially at the roots. Excess sebum accumulates in the hair roots, giving them an "oily" appearance. Sebum traps dust particles present in the air, which easily adheres to the hair, resulting in weak, flat, lumpy hair that often looks or is dirty.

[0017] Excessive seborrhea can lead to the cosmetic disorders and discomfort mentioned above, but also to skin diseases that can be reflected by seborrheic dermatitis or seborrheic alopecia.

[0018] Seborrheic dermatitis is an inflammatory skin disease (or dermatological condition) characterized by the appearance of red plaques covered with white or yellowish scales on oily areas of the scalp, preferably occurring on seborrheic skin. These lesions are prone to recurrence.

[0019] The sebum present in these areas causes an abnormal proliferation of yeasts of the Malassezia type that are naturally present on the skin. These microorganisms cause a specific inflammatory response, reflected in erythema (redness of the skin) and an accelerated cell renewal of the scalp and skin, leading to abnormal desquamation.

[0020] It is a benign, non-contagious, but chronic disease that recurs repeatedly. Due to the visible nature of the lesions, seborrheic dermatitis impacts quality of life.

[0021] Excessive seborrhea can lead to seborrheic alopecia or male pattern baldness, i.e., hair loss. This is due to the high activity of the enzyme 5α-reductase, which accelerates hair follicle regeneration in particular. The anagen phase (tissue regeneration) is shortened, while the telogen phase is lengthened. The hair becomes thinner and lighter in color until short, peach-fuzz hair is obtained. Furthermore, the presence of excess sebum surrounds the hair up to the hair bulb, suffocating it and causing it to become inactive and fall out rapidly.

[0022] In the prior art, various solutions have been proposed for cleaning and removing makeup from skin affected by imperfections and skin diseases. These compositions generally contain abrasives or astringents. In fact, for makeup removal and cleaning, sebum secretion regulation, "cleansing" sebum absorption and astringent action are required.

[0023] In order to reduce excessive sebum secretion on scalp, various solutions have also been proposed.The compositions containing abrasive or astringent are used.In fact, in order to solve the problem of seborrhea and hyperseborrhea, the effect of regulating sebum secretion, "cleansing" sebum absorption and astringent action are required.

[0024] In reality, however, these products are often overly aggressive due to their buildup, frequency of use, and their composition, removing the natural protection provided by sebum. These products cause a rebound effect by stimulating the sebaceous glands, thereby increasing sebum production.

[0025] Document WO 2015 / 106175 explains that succinic acid has a bactericidal effect on Propionobacterium spp. The keratolytic effect of succinic acid is also known, and it is said to have an "exfoliating" effect on the skin. technical challenges

[0026] The first technical problem solved by the present application is to provide a cosmetic or dermatological composition for cleansing and hygiene that cleanses the skin, removes its impurities and eliminates imperfections without being invasive or causing reactive hyperseborrhea.

[0027] The second technical problem solved by this application is to provide a cosmetic or dermatological composition for cleansing the hair and scalp that does not stimulate the sebaceous glands, thereby causing a rebound effect on sebum production, thereby reducing sebum production after cleansing.

[0028] The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition, in a physiologically acceptable medium, for washing, in other words cleansing and / or removing make-up from keratinous materials, preferably from the skin, comprising at least one organic acid chosen from linear or branched dicarboxylic acids, the carbon chain of which consists of 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 5 carbon atoms, and most preferably 4 carbon atoms.

[0029] The present invention also relates to a process for cleaning and / or removing make-up from keratinous materials, in particular the skin, which comprises the step of applying to said keratinous materials, in particular the skin, a cosmetic composition according to the present invention.

[0030] The present invention also relates to the cosmetic, non-therapeutic use of a cosmetic composition according to the invention for cleaning and / or removing make-up from skin having skin defects or disorders, such as acne.

[0031] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition according to the present invention for preventing, reducing or eliminating skin imperfections such as oily skin, greasy skin, shiny skin, enlarged pores, thick skin texture, loss of radiance, dull skin, etc.

[0032] The present invention also relates to a dermatological composition according to the invention for treating skin disorders such as acne.

[0033] Another subject of the present invention is the cosmetic, non-therapeutic use of a composition according to the invention to prevent, reduce or eliminate cosmetic excessive seborrheic conditions of the scalp, such as oily hair, limp, dull, greasy, messy, rough hair and hair that is difficult to style.

[0034] The present invention also relates to a dermatological composition according to the invention for its use in the treatment of pathological hyper-seborrheic conditions of the scalp, such as seborrheic dermatitis or seborrheic alopecia. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0035] A subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic or dermatological composition for washing and / or removing make-up from keratinous materials, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one organic acid chosen from linear or branched dicarboxylic acids, the carbon chain of which consists of 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 5 carbon atoms, and most preferably 4 carbon atoms.

[0036] Succinic acid

[0037] According to one embodiment, the organic acid is succinic acid. According to another embodiment, the succinic acid is in the form of a salt, in particular a sodium salt, such as a monosodium or disodium salt.

[0038] Succinic acid (or butanedioic acid) is an organic acid with two carboxyl groups and the semistructural formula COOH-CH2-CH2-COOH. This acid can now be produced by biotechnological processes known to those skilled in the art, such as "Biosuccinium®" sold by Reverdia or "Beauté by Roquette® SA 130" sold by Roquette.

[0039] According to one embodiment, succinic acid is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1.5% to 8% by weight, preferably from 2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0040] According to another embodiment, succinic acid is present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight, and even more preferably from 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0041] Succinic acid has an advantageous bactericidal function especially against Gram-positive bacteria such as those of Propionobacterium spp., especially Propionobacterium acnes.

[0042] In a complementary manner, succinic acid can also be a mechanical skin exfoliant, called a "scrub," when it is in a solid crystallized form, or a chemical skin exfoliant when it is in a dissolved form.

[0043] Sebum absorbent

[0044] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one agent for sebum absorption.

[0045] The sebum absorbing agent is a hydrophobic or amphiphilic solid particle, which may be solid or porous, They have the ability to absorb sebum by hydrophobic affinity and / or by trapping it in the pores of the particles.The sebum retained or trapped on the particles can then be removed by any operation that allows the particles to be removed.Similarly, sebum oxidation or decomposition products are also absorbed by the sebum absorbent.Sebum absorbents make it possible to cleanse the skin and reduce shine.

[0046] Advantageously, the sebum absorbing agent also provides a pleasant "soft" feel to the skin.

[0047] Typically, the sebum-absorbing agent is selected from a plant-derived sebum-absorbing agent selected from natural or modified cellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, natural or modified granular starch, natural or modified cyclodextrin, dextrin, and maltodextrin, and / or at least one mineral-derived sebum-absorbing agent such as clay and silica, and salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0048] Among the starches, the product Beaute by is sold by ROQUETTE. Corn starch such as Roquette® ST 005 (INCI: Zea (mays) starch) is also included.

[0049] Typically, the modified granular starch can be a modified starch such as octenyl succinylated starch. For example, mention may be made of the product Beaute by Roquette® ST 012 (INCI: Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate) sold by ROQUETTE. Advantageously, the product Beaute by Roquette® ST 012 is capable of both absorbing sebum and imparting a "soft feel" to the composition according to the invention. Among modified starches, mention may also be made of the product Beaute by Roquette® ST 118 (INCI: Sodium carboxymethyl starch) sold by ROQUETTE.

[0050] As an example of microcrystalline cellulose as an agent for sebum absorption, mention may be made of the product Microcel™ 100 (INCI: Microcrystalline cellulose) sold by ROQUETTE.

[0051] Cellulose gum and microcrystalline cellulose (INCI: Microcrystalline Cellulose), such as the products Tabulose® SC 591 and Tabulose® SC 611, both sold by ROQUETTE. & Cellulose Gum).

[0052] Typically, among the sebum absorbents of mineral origin, mention may be made of clays that can be chosen from kaolin (INCI kaolin), rhassoul (INCI: Moroccan Lava Clay), green clay (INCI: illite), montmorillonite, silica (INCI: Silica), and also mica.

[0053] Among the sebum absorbents of plant origin, for example, activated carbon can be mentioned.

[0054] As regards cyclodextrins, mention may be made of the product Beaute by Roquette® CD 102 (INCI: Cyclodextrin) sold by ROQUETTE or the product Kleptose® 10 (INCI: Beta-cyclodextrin), also sold by ROQUETTE.

[0055] According to one embodiment, the sebum-absorbing agent is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1 to 80% by weight, preferably from 2 to 60% by weight, preferably from 3% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; preferably the content of sebum-absorbing agent is from about 3% to 20% by weight, and ideally from 4 to 10% by weight.

[0056] Monocarboxylic acids

[0057] According to one variant, the cosmetic or dermatological composition for caring for keratinous materials contains at least one monocarboxylic acid, or a salt thereof, selected from linear or branched monocarboxylic acids whose carbon chain consists of 2 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 8 carbon atoms, and most preferably 6 carbon atoms. Examples include citric acid and its salts, gluconic acid, its lactone and its salts, lactic acid and its salts, glycolic acid and its salts, glucuronic acid and its salts, maltobionic acid and its salts, lactobionic acid and its salts, malic acid and its salts, tartaric acid and its salts, mandelic acid and its salts, sorbic acid and its salts, benzoic acid and its salts, and fatty acids (or carboxylic acids containing fatty chains) and their salts with a carbon chain of 4 to 12 atoms, preferably natural fatty acids such as butyric acid, caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, and lauric acid. The salts of these monocarboxylic acids are preferably sodium salts.

[0058] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological composition comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium, succinic acid and at least one monocarboxylic acid chosen from linear or branched monocarboxylic acids whose carbon chain consists of 2 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 8 carbon atoms, and most preferably 6 carbon atoms, or a salt thereof.

[0059] Preferably, the monocarboxylic acid is gluconic acid. According to one alternative, the monocarboxylic acid is a fatty acid having a carbon chain of 4 to 12 atoms, or a salt of these fatty acids.

[0060] Gluconic acid is preferably present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0061] According to another variation, the monocarboxylic acid is the cyclic form of gluconic acid called gluconolactone.

[0062] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises a combination of succinic acid and gluconic acid, which has high bactericidal activity with respect to Propionobacterium acnes.

[0063] Application form

[0064] A physiologically acceptable medium is preferably cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable. "Physiologically acceptable medium" or "cosmetically acceptable" or "dermatologically acceptable" is understood to mean that it does not exhibit adverse side effects, in particular does not cause unacceptable redness, inflammation, heat, tightness or stinging sensations to the user of the cosmetic or dermatological product. The medium is therefore compatible with human keratinous materials.

[0065] Typically, keratinous materials are the skin, mucous membranes, the scalp or hair, the hair system, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails, and preferably the skin.

[0066] The cosmetic compositions according to the invention are those used in the cosmetic field, such as aqueous, hydroalcoholic or oily solutions, lotion or serum type solutions or dispersions, milk type solutions obtained by dispersing a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W) or vice versa (W / O). They may be in any of the dosage forms usually used for topical application, such as emulsions of liquid or semi-liquid consistency, or suspensions or emulsions of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency of cream or aqueous or anhydrous gel type, anhydrous compositions, solid compositions of microemulsions, microcapsules, microparticles or vesicular dispersions of ionic and / or non-ionic type.

[0067] These compositions are prepared by conventional methods known to those skilled in the art.

[0068] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention may be in the form of an emulsion, i.e. a composition comprising an aqueous phase and an oily phase dispersed in one another, for example a water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W) or multiple (W / O / W or O / W / O) emulsion.

[0069] According to one embodiment, the composition is in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion.

[0070] Water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions contain an aqueous phase dispersed in an oily phase. These emulsions contain an oily continuous phase.

[0071] According to one embodiment, the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. These emulsions comprise an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase. These emulsions comprise an aqueous continuous phase.

[0072] Among the dosage forms in the form of oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions or in the form of microemulsions, suitable for cleaning and / or removing make-up from keratinous materials, preferably the skin, mention may be made of cleansing creams, mousses, milks, cleansers in milk form, scrubs.

[0073] Among the dosage forms suitable for cleansing the scalp and / or hair, in the form of oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions or in the form of microemulsions, in dosage forms for "rinse-off" use, mention may be made of shampoos, hair conditioners, hair masks, serums, mousses, balms, creams, sprays, after-shampoos, detanglers, hair creams.

[0074] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in the form of an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic single-phase solution, or in the form of a solid composition.

[0075] An aqueous single-phase solution is understood to mean a composition comprising an aqueous continuous phase comprising water and optionally one or more water-miscible organic solvents.

[0076] A hydroalcoholic monophasic solution is understood to mean a composition comprising an hydroalcoholic continuous phase comprising at least one alcohol and, according to one embodiment, several alcohols that are miscible with each other or with water.

[0077] A solid single-phase composition is intended to mean a composition consisting of one or more solid phases mixed with one another heterogeneously or homogeneously, preferably homogeneously.

[0078] Among the dosage forms in the form of aqueous, hydroalcoholic or solid single-phase compositions suitable for cleaning and / or removing make-up from keratinous materials, preferably the skin, mention may be made of shower gels, face washes in lotion form, lotions, micellar waters, scrubs, dry soaps, washing bars, liquid cleansers, powders such as powders to be added to the bath or foaming bath powders or effervescent bath powders, shower creams, sprays.

[0079] According to one embodiment, the aqueous single-phase composition thereby makes it possible to form a facial cleanser that not only cleanses the skin but also prevents, reduces or eliminates skin imperfections such as oily skin, greasy skin, shiny skin, enlarged pores, thick skin texture, reduced radiance, dull skin, etc.

[0080] Among the dosage forms in the form of aqueous, hydroalcoholic or solid single-phase compositions suitable for cleansing keratinous materials, preferably the scalp and hair, mention may be made of liquid shampoos, lotions, gels, rinse-off products, dry shampoos.

[0081] aqueous phase

[0082] Cosmetic compositions according to the present invention comprise an aqueous phase comprising water and, optionally, one or more water-miscible organic solvents.

[0083] According to one embodiment, the water-in-oil emulsion according to the invention comprises 0.5 to 75% by weight of water, preferably 10 to 50%, preferably 20 to 40%, preferably 30 to 35% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0084] According to one embodiment, the oil-in-water emulsion according to the invention comprises 50 to 99% by weight of water, preferably 60 to 95%, preferably 70 to 90%, preferably 80 to 85% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0085] According to one embodiment, the microemulsion according to the invention comprises between 40 and 60% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0086] According to one embodiment, the aqueous single-phase composition comprises 50-99% by weight of water, preferably 60-95%, preferably 70-90%, preferably 80-85% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0087] According to one embodiment, the hydroalcoholic single-phase composition comprises 50-99% by weight of water, preferably 60-95%, preferably 70-90%, preferably 80-85% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0088] The composition may comprise at least one water-soluble solvent in the aqueous phase.

[0089] "Water-soluble solvent" is used to indicate a compound that is liquid at ambient temperature and is water-miscible (greater than 50% by weight miscible in water at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).

[0090] The water-soluble solvents for use in the compositions according to the present invention may be volatile.

[0091] Among the water-soluble solvents that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of monoalcohols having 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, C3-C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes.

[0092] Thus, according to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one monoalcohol having 1 to 5 carbon atoms, preferably ethanol or propanediol (or 1,2-monopropylene glycol), the latter preferably of natural origin or obtained by fermentation or biotechnological processes, such as the product Zemea® sold by DUPONT and the product TILAMAR® PDO with NOOVISTA sold by DSM.

[0093] Typically, the monoalcohol having 1 to 5 carbon atoms is present in a content ranging from 0.5 to 25% by weight, preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 2 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0094] Wetting agent

[0095] The emulsion according to the invention may also comprise at least one humectant, which may be chosen from polyols and / or esters of fatty acids and polyethylene glycols.

[0096] "Polyol" is intended to mean any molecule that has in its structure at least two free hydroxy (-OH) groups. These polyols are preferably liquid at ambient temperature (25°C).

[0097] Typically, the polyol is selected from maltitol, mannitol, xylitol, erythritol, sorbitol, isosorbide, glycerol or glycerin, glucose, sucrose, polydextrose, hydrogenated glucose syrup, dextrin, maltodextrin, glucose syrup, and mixtures thereof.

[0098] By way of example, in particular, the product Beaute by ROQUETTE Roquette® PO 070 (INCI: Sorbitol), Beaute by Roquette® PO 160 (INCI: Sorbitol), Beaute by Roquette® PO 260 (INCI: Mannitol), Beaute by Roquette® PO 370 (INCI: Xylitol), Beaute by Roquette® PO 500 (INCI: Isosorbide), glycerin (INCI: glycerin) sold by COOPER, propylene glycol (INCI: propylene glycol) and butylene glycol (INCI: 1,3-BUTANEDIOL) manufactured by COOPER.

[0099] Among esters of fatty acids and polyethylene glycol, a product sold under the name Glucamate SSE-20 (INCI: PEG-20 METHYL GLUCOSE SESQUISTEARATE) manufactured by LUBRIZOL ADVANCED MATERIALS, Inc. may be mentioned.

[0100] The composition comprises from 0.5 to 25% by weight of polyol, preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, and even more preferably from 2 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 2 to 6% by weight of polyol, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0101] Oil phase

[0102] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil.

[0103] For the purposes of the present invention, "oil" is understood to mean a compound that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and that, when introduced into water at 25°C in an amount of at least 1% by weight, is either completely insoluble in water or soluble to an extent of less than 10% by weight relative to the weight of the oil introduced into the water.

[0104] According to one embodiment, the oil is chosen from volatile oils, non-volatile oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0105] The liquid fatty phase advantageously comprises one or more non-volatile oils that provide an emollient effect to the skin.

[0106] "Non-volatile oil" means an oil that remains on keratinous materials for at least several hours at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, and in particular has a vapor pressure of 10 -3 It is intended to mean oils with a viscosity of less than mmHg (0.13 Pa).

[0107] Among the non-volatile oils, cetearyl isononoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, isostearyl isostearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, isononyl isononate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate or lactate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate, diisostearyl malate, triacetin, tricaprin, caprylic / capric triglyceride, mixtures of cococaprate and caprylate, benzoates of C12-C15 alcohols, butylene glycol Examples of the oil-soluble surfactant include glycol esters such as glycol cocoate, fatty esters such as glyceryl triisostearate and tocopherol acetate, higher fatty acids such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and isostearic acid, higher fatty alcohols such as oleyl alcohol, vegetable oils such as avocado oil, camellia oil, hazelnut oil, camellia oil, cashew nut oil, argan oil, soybean oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, germ oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, jojoba oil, peanut oil, macadamia nut oil, sweet almond oil, and olive oil, and mixtures thereof, and vegetable butters such as shea butter and camellia butter.

[0108] These non-volatile oils may also be of the hydrocarbon or silicone type, such as paraffin oil, squalene, petroleum jelly, dimethylsiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

[0109] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile oil is chosen from stearic acid, jojoba oil (INCI: Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil), grape seed oil (INCI: Vitis vinifera seed oil), macadamia nut oil (INCI: Macadamia ternifolia seed oil), refined oleic sunflower oil (Helianthus annuus seed oil), a mixture of coco-caprate and caprylate (INCI: Coco-Caprylate / Caprate) such as the product Miglyol Coco 810, sweet almond oil (INCI: Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil), sesame oil (INCI: Sesamum indicum seed oil).

[0110] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile oil is present in a content ranging from 0.5 to 50% by weight, preferably from 1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 2 to 20% by weight, preferably from 5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0111] Liquid fatty phase can also contain volatile oil.Volatile oil means oil that can evaporate from skin within 1 hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.Volatile oil can be selected from silicone oil or short-chain fatty acid triglyceride for example, to reduce greasy feeling.

[0112] According to one embodiment, the volatile oil is present in a content ranging from 0.5 to 50% by weight, preferably from 1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 2 to 20% by weight, preferably from 5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0113] The fatty or oily phase of the composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one structuring agent of the fatty phase, such as a wax and / or a pasty compound.

[0114] wax

[0115] "Wax" refers to a lipid substance that can be reversibly changed between liquid and solid states and has a melting point above 30°C and generally below 90°C, which is liquid under the conditions of preparation of the composition and has an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state. The waxes used according to the invention can consist of polar or non-polar waxes, or a mixture of these two. "Non-polar" is intended to mean waxes that contain only carbon, hydrogen and / or phosphorus atoms, in particular hydrocarbons.

[0116] The polar waxes can be selected from animal waxes, vegetable waxes, and synthetic or silicone waxes containing polar groups, such as esters. Examples include carnauba wax, candelilla wax, beeswax (Cera alba), Chinese insect wax (Petroleum purpurea), Japan wax, Japan wax, montan wax, triesters of C8-C20 acids and glycerin, such as glyceryl tribehenate, acetylated glycol stearate, and mixtures thereof, sold in particular by Vevy under the trade name CETACENE. These waxes can be used in particular in the form of pre-dispersed oils, as in the case of a mixture of candelilla wax and jojoba seed oil.

[0117] According to one embodiment, the wax is present in a content ranging from 0.5 to 50% by weight, preferably from 1 to 25% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0118] Paste-like compound

[0119] "Pasty compound" is understood to mean a lipophilic fatty substance which, like wax, is capable of undergoing reversible liquid-solid state changes and which, in the solid state, has an anisotropic crystalline structure, but which differs from wax in that it contains a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at a temperature of 23°C.

[0120] According to one embodiment, the pasty compound is present in a content ranging from 0.5 to 50% by weight, preferably from 1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0121] Gelling agent

[0122] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one gelling agent.

[0123] Gelling agents are intended to mean compounds that, in the presence of a solvent, create rather strong interpolymer bonds, thereby forming a three-dimensional network that immobilizes the solvent.

[0124] The gelling agent is selected from hydrophilic organogelators, and / or lipophilic organogelators, and / or amphiphilic organogelators, and / or mineral gelling agents.

[0125] According to one embodiment, when the composition is an aqueous single-phase composition or an aqueous-alcoholic single-phase composition, the composition comprises at least one gelling agent selected from hydrophilic organic gelling agents, and / or amphiphilic organic gelling agents, and / or mineral gelling agents.

[0126] The gelling agent makes it possible to impart viscosity to the continuous phase, ie to adjust the viscosity of the continuous phase to a value ranging from 100 mPa.s to 20,000 mPa.s.

[0127] The organogelator may be selected from polymers of synthetic or plant origin, preferably plant origin, either chemically modified or not. They may thus be chosen from plant-derived gums such as gum arabic, gum ghatti, gum tragacanth, konjac gum, tara gum, carob gum, guar gum, or derivatives thereof; algae-derived gums such as alginates and carrageenans; gums derived from microbial fermentation such as xanthan, mannan, scleroglucan, or derivatives thereof, for example the product Keltrol CG (INCI: xanthan gum) sold by CP KELCO or the product Xanthan Gum FNCS-PC (INCI: xanthan gum) sold by JUNGBUNZLAUER INTERNATIONAL AG; cellulose and derivatives thereof, such as carboxymethylcellulose or hydroxyethylcellulose; starch and derivatives thereof, especially modified starches, in particular acetylated, carboxymethylated, octenylsuccinylated, or hydroxypropylated starch; synthetic polymers such as polyacrylic acid or carbomer, and mixtures thereof.

[0128] Among the carbomers, mention may be made, for example, of the products Carbopol Ultrez 30 (INCI: carbomer) or CARBOPOL ETD 2050 polymer (INCI: carbomer) manufactured by LUBRIZOL ADVANCED MATERIALS, Inc.

[0129] Mixtures of gum arabic and xanthan gum, such as the product Solagum AX (INCI: Acacia Senegal Gum and Xanthan Gum) sold by SEPPIC, and the product Beaute by Roquette® DS 112 (INCI: Starch acetate and Hydroxyethylcellulose and Also included are mixtures of starch with cellulose or gum derivatives, such as Xanthan gum.

[0130] The mineral gelling agent may be selected from magnesium silicate and / or aluminum silicate. An example of such a mineral gelling agent is Veegum® from Vanderbilt Minerals LLC, which is a magnesium aluminum silicate.

[0131] Binder

[0132] According to one embodiment, the composition further comprises a binder.

[0133] The solid composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one binder.

[0134] "Binder" is intended to mean a compound that imparts increased cohesive strength to a cosmetic composition, which can be adjusted based on the amount and chemical affinity of the binder for the components of the cosmetic composition.

[0135] Typically, the binder is chosen from caprylic / capric triglycerides such as the products Labrafac CC (INCI: capric / caprylic triglycerides) or Cetyl Dimethicone (INCI).

[0136] The binder is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5% to 20%, preferably from 1 to 15%, preferably from 5 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0137] Advantageously, the binder also has emollient properties.

[0138] emulsifier

[0139] Cosmetic compositions according to the present invention may also comprise one or more oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsifiers.

[0140] Oil-in-water (O / W) emulsifiers are emulsifiers having an HLB of 8 or greater and selected from sorbitan esters (optionally polyethoxylated), glycerol fatty acid esters, sucrose fatty acid esters or polyesters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, polyether-modified polysiloxanes, polyethylene glycol fatty alcohol ethers, alkyl polyglycosides and hydrogenated lecithins, fatty alcohols, sorbitan esters (this list is not limiting), and mixtures thereof.

[0141] Examples include the products Montanov 68 (INCI: Cetearyl alcohol (and) cetearyl glucoside) sold by SEPPIC, Montanov L (INCI: C14-C22 Alcohols & C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside) and Montanov 202 (INCI: Arachidyl Alcohol (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and) Arachidyl Glucoside) sold by SEPPIC, Citrol GMS 40 (INCI: Glyceryl stearate) sold by CRODA, Imwitor 960K (INCI: Glyceryl stearate) sold by BIESTERFELD, Imwitor 372P (INCI: Glyceryl stearate citrate) sold by BIESTERFELD, and Glucate sold by LUBRIZOL ADVANCED MATERIALS, Inc. SS (INCI: Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate), Pullol Stearic (Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate), Natragem E145 (INCI: Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate / Succinate (and) Aqua) sold by CRODA, and Span 60 (INCI: sorbitan stearate) sold by SIGMA ALDRICH.

[0142] Among the sorbitan esters, mention may be made, for example, of the product Span 20.

[0143] Among fatty alcohols, mention may be made, for example, of the product sold under the name Promulgen D (INCI: Cetearyl alcohol (and) Ceteareth-20).

[0144] The W / O emulsifier can advantageously be chosen from emulsifying systems composed of cyclodextrins and water-in-oil emulsifiers of natural origin, such as the emulsifying system sold by Roquette Freres under the name Beaute by Roquette® DS146.

[0145] The water-in-oil (W / O) emulsifier has an HLB of less than 8 and can be selected from non-ethoxylated polyol fatty acid esters, in particular from non-ethoxylated fatty acid esters of anhydrohexitols such as glycerol, polyglycerol, sorbitol, sorbitan, in particular isosorbide, mannitol, xylitol, erythritol, maltitol, sucrose, glucose, polydextrose, hydrogenated glucose syrup, dextrins and hydrolyzed starch.

[0146] Fat Phase Thickeners

[0147] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one fatty phase thickener, ie a lipophilic or amphiphilic thickener chosen from fatty alcohols.

[0148] Lipophilic or amphiphilic thickener is intended to mean a molecule or macromolecule capable of increasing the viscosity of an oil without substantially altering its physical or chemical properties.

[0149] Among the fatty alcohols, Lanette 16 (INCI: cetyl alcohol) and Lanette O (INCI: cetearyl alcohol) can be mentioned.

[0150] surfactants

[0151] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant chosen from ionic, nonionic, anionic, or amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, these surfactants being chosen for their detergent and foaming properties.

[0152] According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant chosen from anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.

[0153] The anionic surfactant is selected from carboxylate anionic surfactants, sulfate anionic surfactants, sulfonate surfactants, phosphate anionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof, preferably sulfonate anionic surfactants, carboxylate anionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

[0154] "Anionic surfactant" is intended to mean a surfactant that contains only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups. As used herein, a material is called "anionic" if it contains no cationic charge and has at least one permanent negative charge, or if it can be ionized to provide a negatively charged material, under the conditions of use of the compositions of the present invention (e.g., environment, pH). "Sulfate-based anionic surfactants" are surfactants that contain at least one sulfate functional group (-OSO3H or -OSO3 - ), which is intended to mean an anionic surfactant containing, optionally, a carboxylic acid or carboxylate functional group (-COOH or -COO - ), sulfonic acid functional group (-SO3H or -SO3 -), and / or one or more other functional groups derived from an acid, such as a phosphate functional group. Examples of sulfate-based anionic surfactants include alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl amide ether sulfates, alkyl aryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, and salts of these compounds. The alkyl groups of these compounds mentioned by way of example contain 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and the aryl groups represent phenyl or benzyl groups. These compounds mentioned by way of example may be polyoxyalkenylated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and may contain 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units. The term "non-sulfate-based anionic surfactant" is intended to mean surfactants not included in the definition of "sulfate-based anionic surfactant" as defined above.

[0155] According to the present invention, it is also contemplated that: -Carboxylic acid anionic surfactants contain at least one carboxylic acid or carboxylate functional group (-COOH or -COO - ), but does not contain sulfonic or sulfonic acid functional groups (-SO3H or -SO3 - ) also has a sulfate functional group (-OSO3H or -OSO3 - ) is not included. The sulfonic acid anionic surfactant comprises at least one sulfonic acid or sulfonate. Functional group (-SO3H or -SO3 - ), optionally containing one or more carboxylic acids or carboxylates (-COOH or -COO - ), and / or phosphate functional groups, but may also contain sulfate functional groups (-OSO3H or -OSO3 - ) cannot be included. -phosphate anionic surfactants contain at least one phosphoric acid or phosphate functional group (-OPO3H2 or -OPO3 2- ), but does not contain a carboxylic acid or carboxylate functional group (-COOH or -COO - ) also has a sulfonic acid or sulfonate functional group (-SO3H or -SO3 - ) also contains a sulfate functional group (-OSO3H or -OSO3 - ) is not included.

[0156] In other words:

[0157] - at least one sulfate functional group (-OSO3H or -OSO3 - ), and at least one carboxylic acid or carboxylate functional group (-COOH or -COO - ) are considered to be sulfate-based anionic surfactants for purposes of this invention and unless otherwise specified.

[0158] - at least one sulfate functional group (-OSO3H or -OSO3 - ), and at least one sulfonic acid or sulfonate functional group (-SO3H or -SO3 - ) are considered to be sulfate-based anionic surfactants for purposes of this invention and unless otherwise specified.

[0159] - at least one sulfonic acid or sulfonate functional group (-SO3H or -SO3 - ), and at least one carboxylic acid or carboxylate functional group (-COOH or -COO - ) are considered, for purposes of this invention and unless otherwise specified, to be non-sulfate sulfonate anionic surfactants. - ), and at least one sulfonic acid or sulfonate functional group (-SO3H or -SO3 - ), and at least one carboxylic acid or carboxylate functional group (-COOH or -COO - ) are considered to be sulfate-based anionic surfactants for purposes of this invention and unless otherwise specified.

[0160] The carboxylic acid anionic surfactants may be selected from the following compounds: acyl glycinates, acyl lactylates, acyl sarcosinates; acyl glutamates, alkyl-D-galactosiduronic acids, alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl (aryl) ether carboxylic acids, alkyl amido ether carboxylic acids, and salts of these compounds. The alkyl and / or acyl groups of these compounds contain 6 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 8 to 28, still more preferably 10 to 24, and even better still 12 to 22 carbon atoms. The aryl group preferably represents a phenyl or benzyl group. These compounds may be polyoxyalkenylated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, to contain preferably 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, still better still 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units. It is also possible to use monoesters of C6-C24 alkyl and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, such as C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside citrate, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside tartate, and salts thereof.

[0161] According to one embodiment, the carboxylic acid anionic surfactant is: acyl glutamates, in particular C6 to C24, or even C12 to C20 acyl glutamates, such as stearoyl glutamates and in particular sodium or disodium stearoyl glutamate, or cocoyl glutamates, in particular sodium or disodium cocoyl glutamate; Acyl sarcosinates, in particular C6 to C24, or even C12 to C20 acyl sarcosinates sarcosinates, such as cocoyl sarcosinate and in particular sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, lauroyl sarcosinate and in particular sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, palmitoyl sarcosinate and in particular sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate; acyl lactylates, in particular C12 to C28, or even C14 to C24 acyl lactylates, such as behenoyl lactylates and in particular sodium behenoyl lactylate, (iso)stearoyl lactylates and in particular sodium (iso)stearoyl lactylate; C6 to C24, in particular C12 to C20, acylglycinates, such as cocoyl acylglycinate and in particular sodium cocoyl glycinate; -(C6-C30) alkyl ether carboxylic acids, in particular (C6-C24) alkyl ether carboxylic acids; -(C6-C30) alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids, in particular (C6-C24) alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids; -(C6-C30) alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, in particular (C6-C24) alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; and mixtures thereof; in particular in the form of their alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, ammonium or alkanolamine salts.

[0162] The sulfonic acid anionic surfactants may be selected from the following compounds: alkyl sulfonates, alkylamido sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside sulfosuccinates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamido sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acyl isethionates; alkyl sulfolaurates; and salts of these compounds; the alkyl group of these compounds contains 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 28, still better still 14 to 24 or even 16 to 22 carbon atoms, the aryl group preferably represents a phenyl or benzyl group, and these compounds may be polyoxyalkenylated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably contain 1 to 50, still better still 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0163] According to one embodiment, the sulfonic acid anionic surfactant is selected from: C6-C24, in particular C12-C20 alkyl sulfosuccinates, in particular lauryl sulfosucconate; C6-C24, in particular C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates; (C6-C24) acyl isethionates, preferably (C12-C18) acyl isethionates; α-olefin sulfonates; and mixtures thereof, in particular in the form of their alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, ammonium or alkanolamine salts.

[0164] According to one embodiment, the anionic surfactant may be selected from monoesters of C6 to C24 alkyl and polyglycoside dicarboxylic acids, such as alkylglucoside citrates, alkylpolyglycoside tartrates and alkylpolyglycoside sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acyl isethionates and N-acyltaurates, the alkyl or acyl group of all these compounds preferably containing 12 to 20 carbon atoms. Another group of anionic surfactants that can be used in the compositions of the present invention is that of acyl lactylates, the acyl group of which contains 8 to 20 carbon atoms. Further examples include alkyl-D-galactosiduronic acids and their salts, as well as polyoxyalkenylated (C6-C24 alkyl) ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkenylated (C6-C24 alkyl) (C6-C24 aryl) ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkenylated (C6-C24 alkyl) amide ether carboxylic acids, and salts thereof, in particular those containing 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof.

[0165] The phosphate anionic surfactants are C6 to C24, especially C12 to C20 alkyl phosphates. C6 to C24, particularly C12 to C20 alkyl ether phosphates; and mixtures thereof.

[0166] The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant may be selected from secondary, tertiary, or quaternary aliphatic amine derivatives, where the aliphatic group contains 8 to 22 carbon atoms and is linear or branched, containing at least one anionic group, such as a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate, or phosphonate group. Other examples include (C8-C20) alkyl betaines, such as cocobetaine; sulfobetaine, (C8-C20) alkyl sulfobetaines; (C8-C20) alkylamido (C3-C8) alkyl betaines, such as cocamidopropyl betaine; or (C8-C20) alkylamido (C6-C8) alkyl sulfobetaines.

[0167] Film-forming agents

[0168] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one film-forming agent.

[0169] The film-forming agent may be selected from naturally occurring polymers or derivatives of natural products such as hydroxypropylmethylcellulose (HPMC), hydroxypropylcellulose (HPC), or synthetic polymers such as polyvinyl alcohol (PVA), and / or plasticizers other than polyols such as polyethylene glycol, triethyl citrate, polysorbate, or even waxes such as carnauba wax or hydrogenated castor oil.

[0170] Also included as a film-forming agent is hydroxypropylated pea starch (Beaute by Roquette® ST 720).

[0171] dye

[0172] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise fillers having the effect of coloring and / or opacifying the composition and / or coloring keratinous materials, preferably skin, such as dyes selected from at least one water-soluble or liposoluble dye, pigments, pearlizing agents, lakes (water-soluble dyes adsorbed on inert mineral carriers), and mixtures thereof. These dyes may optionally be surface-treated with hydrophobic agents such as silanes, silicones, fatty acid soaps, C9-C15 fluoroalcohol phosphates, acrylate / dimethicone copolymers, C9-C15 fluoroalcohol phosphate / silicone mixed copolymers, lecithin, carnauba wax, polyethylene, chitosan, and optionally acylated amino acids such as lauroyl lysine, disodium stearoyl glutamate, aluminum acyl glutamic acid, and phytic acid.

[0173] "Pigment" is intended to mean white or colored mineral or organic particles intended to color and / or opacify a cosmetic composition.

[0174] Among the pigments, mention may be made of mineral or organic, natural or synthetic pigments, examples of which include, in particular, oxides of iron, titanium or zinc, as well as composite pigments and goniochromatic, pearlescent, interference, photochromic or thermochromic pigments, this list being non-limiting.

[0175] Among the pigments surface-treated with lecithin, the products UNIPURE WHITE LC981 HLC (INCI: CI 77891 (and) Hydrogenated Lecithin) and UNIPURE YELLOW LC182 HLC (INCI: CI 77492 (and) Hydrogenated Lecithin) manufactured by Sensient Cosmetic Technologies are d) Hydrogenated Lecithin), UNIPURE BLACK LC989 HLC (INCI: CI 77499 (and) Hydrogenated Lecithin), UNIPURE RED LC381HLC (INCI: CI 77491 (and) Hydrogenated Lecithin).

[0176] Among the pigments surface-treated with phytic acid, the product Unipure White LC 985 PHY (INCI: CI 77891 (and) Phytic Acid (and) Sodium) manufactured by Sensient Cosmetic Technologies is Hydroxide), Unipure Yellow LC 188 PHY(INCI:CI 77492(and)Phytic Acid(and)Sodium Hydroxide), Unipure Red LC 388 PHY(INCI:CI 77491 (and) Phytic Acid (and) Sodium Hydroxide), Unipure Black LC 998 PHY (INCI: CI 77499 (and) Phytic Acid (and) Sodium Hydroxide).

[0177] "Pearling agent" is intended to mean any iridescent or non-iridescent colored particle that has a color effect due to optical interference.

[0178] Among the pearling agents, mention may be made of titanic mica coated with metal oxides such as iron oxide or titanium oxide.

[0179] According to one embodiment, the makeup and / or care composition according to the invention comprises at least some colored particles, preferably pigments such as iron oxide pigments and / or pearlescent agents.

[0180] Filler

[0181] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further contain at least one filler. This term is intended to mean inorganic or organic particles of any shape (especially spherical or lamellar), which are insoluble in the composition. Examples of fillers include talc, boron nitride, starch, polyamide, silicone resin, silicone elastomer powder, and acrylic polymer powder, especially poly(methyl methacrylate) powder, or styrene acrylate copolymer powder (Sunsphere Powders manufactured by Dow).

[0182] sensory agents

[0183] Sensate agents make it possible to modify the sensory profile of a cosmetic or dermatological composition, making it more pleasant for the user. They may be selected from modified starches such as carboxymethyl starch, for example Beaute by Roquette® ST 118 from Roquette, silica, or talc, or mixtures thereof. These sensate agents provide a soft feel for solid compositions or a cushioning effect for compositions in liquid or gel form.

[0184] Conditioning Agent

[0185] The conditioning agent may be selected from cationic polymers such as polyquaterniums.

[0186] active ingredient

[0187] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient.

[0188] Cosmetic active ingredients, or cosmetic active ingredients, or cosmetic active substances include ingredients or substances intended to cleanse or purify the skin, such as anti-acne agents, sebum regulating agents, antibacterial agents, antifungal agents, keratolytic agents, keratin regulating agents, astringents, anti-inflammatory agents, anti-irritants, antioxidants, anti-free radical agents, healing agents, anti-aging agents, moisturizers, emollients, firming agents, depigmenting agents, mattifying agents, anti-pollution agents, microcirculation stimulants, exfoliants, firming agents, vitamins, minerals, surfactants selected from those that do not have an irritating effect on sebogenesis.

[0189] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one cosmetic active ingredient having emollient activity, such as an emollient.

[0190] Examples of emollients include glyceryl stearate (INCI name), ODM (INCI: Octyldodecyl Myristate), the product Lipocire A (INCI: C10-18 Triglycerides), the product Lexfeel NS (INCI: Diheptyl Succinate (and) Capryloyl Glycerin / Sebacic) sold by INOLEX. Coconut oil esters such as Labrafac CC (INCI: capric / caprylic triglycerides) sold by GATTEFOSSE, Tegosoft AC (INCI: isoamyl cocoate) sold by EVONIK, and DUB VCl 10 (INCI: Isodecyl Copolymer) made by STEARINERIE DUBOIS. Neopentanoate), Cetiol OE (INCI: dicaprylyl Ether), and Mango butter (INCI: Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter).

[0191] Among vitamins, mention may be made of tocopherols, such as the product Covi-ox® T-70 C (INCI: tocopherol) sold by BASF, which can be used as antioxidants.

[0192] The moisturizing agent is selected from humectants, film-forming agents, occlusive agents, and lyotropic agents.

[0193] Among the film-forming agents, apart from the aforementioned film-forming agents, mention may be made of collagen, elastin, pectin, gelatin, chitosan, glycosaminoglycans such as hyaluronic acid, and the like.

[0194] Among the occlusive agents are petroleum jelly, paraffin, liquid petroleum jelly, wheat germ oil, shea butter, and beeswax.

[0195] Among the lyotropic agents, mention may be made in particular of lanolin and its derivatives, ceramides, and essential fatty acids.

[0196] According to a preferred embodiment, the moisturizing agent is a moisturizing agent chosen from ethoxylated compounds or the aforementioned moisturizing agents, preferably sorbitol. The products Beaute by Roquette® PO 070 (INCI: Sorbitol) and Beaute by Roquette® PO 070 are sold by ROQUETTE. 160 (INCI: Sorbitol).

[0197] Among the ethoxylated compounds, mention may be made of products based on glucose, methyl alcohol, and sugar derivatives, such as the product Glucam™ E-20 wetting agent sold by LUBRIZOL ADVANCED MATERIALS Inc.

[0198] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the invention further comprises at least one emollient, and / or at least one sebum regulating agent, and / or at least one other antimicrobial agent.

[0199] Typically, the cosmetic active ingredient is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and even more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight.

[0200] additives

[0201] The composition according to the present invention may contain other ingredients, as long as they do not interfere with the desired properties of the composition. These other ingredients may be, for example, scrubs or exfoliants, preservatives such as sodium benzoate (INCI) or benzoic acid, such as the product Microcare NB sold by Thor, or potassium sorbate (INCI) or sorbic acid, such as the product Microcare KS also sold by Thor, pH adjusters such as citric acid, sodium hydroxide, or arginine, antibacterial agents, fragrances, sunscreens, chelating agents, and mixtures thereof.

[0202] Among sunscreens, examples include Solvaeil XT 300 (INCI: Titanium Dioxide (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Stearic Acid (and) Alumina) from CRODA, EUSOLEX 2292 (INCI: ETHYLHEXYL METHOXYCINNAMATE) or EUSOLEX T-2000 (INCI: CI 77891 & ALUMINA & SIMETHICONE) from Merck KGaA.

[0203] According to one embodiment, the emulsions, aqueous, hydroalcoholic single-phase compositions and solid compositions according to the invention are prepared with "bio-based" components. "Bio-based" is intended to mean a component whose dry weight in terms of carbon atoms of renewable raw materials is at least 50%, preferably at least 80%, and even better still at least 90% by weight, relative to the total dry weight of carbon atoms of the component.

[0204] The emulsions, aqueous, hydroalcoholic single-phase compositions, and solid compositions according to the present invention are prepared by any technique known to those skilled in the art.

[0205] Specific Embodiments

[0206] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological composition is an aqueous single-phase composition composed, preferably consisting of, water, a mixture of gluconic acid and succinic acid, and at least one other ingredient selected from: a sebum absorbent; a preservative such as benzoic acid, sorbic acid, and salts or mixtures thereof; a gelling agent such as a hydrophilic organic gelling agent, and / or an amphiphilic organic gelling agent, and / or a mineral gelling agent; a surfactant such as an anionic or amphoteric surfactant, a sensate; a humectant; an emollient; a moisturizer; a dye; a film-forming agent; an occlusive agent; a conditioning agent; and a fragrance.

[0207] According to a first variant of the aforementioned embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological composition comprises: 40 to 60% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition; 0.5 to 5% by weight of a mixture of succinic acid and gluconic acid relative to the total weight of the composition; - 5 to 50% by weight of at least one surfactant, such as an anionic or amphoteric surfactant, relative to the total weight of the composition; and 0.1 to 10% by weight of at least one other ingredient selected from: sebum absorbents, preservatives such as benzoic acid, sorbic acid, and salts or mixtures thereof; gelling agents, hydrophilic organic gelling agents, and / or amphiphilic organic gelling agents, and / or mineral gelling agents; sensates; humectants; emollients; moisturizers; dyes; film-forming agents; occlusive agents; conditioning agents; and fragrances, The sum of the weight percentages of all components equals 100%.

[0208] According to a second variant of the aforementioned embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological composition comprises: 40 to 60% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition; 0.5 to 5% by weight of a mixture of succinic acid and gluconic acid relative to the total weight of the composition; - 5 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of 1 to 4 surfactants chosen from anionic or amphoteric surfactants; 0.1 to 10% by weight of 1 to 10 ingredients selected from sebum absorbents, preservatives such as benzoic acid, sorbic acid, and salts or mixtures thereof; gelling agents such as hydrophilic organic gelling agents and / or amphiphilic organic gelling agents and / or mineral gelling agents; sensates; humectants; emollients; moisturizers; dyes; film-forming agents; occlusive agents; conditioning agents; and fragrances, The sum of the weight percentages of all components equals 100%.

[0209] According to another embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological composition is in the form of a microemulsion, -Water, -1 to 3 oils, a mixture of succinic acid and gluconic acid, - 1 to 4 surfactants selected from anionic surfactants, or amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, -composed of, and preferably consisting of, 1 to 10 ingredients selected from sebum absorbents, preservatives, gelling agents, sensates; humectants; emollients; moisturizers; dyes; film-forming agents; occlusive agents; conditioning agents; and fragrances.

[0210] According to a variant of the previous embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological composition is in the form of a microemulsion, 40 to 60% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition; 0.5 to 5% by weight of one to three oils relative to the total weight of the composition; 0.5 to 5% by weight of a mixture of succinic acid and gluconic acid relative to the total weight of the composition; - 5 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of 1 to 4 surfactants chosen from anionic surfactants or amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants; - 1 to 10 ingredients, present in an amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, selected from sebum absorbents, preservatives, gelling agents, sensates; humectants; emollients; moisturizers; dyes; film-forming agents; occlusive agents; conditioning agents; and fragrances, The sum of the weight percentages of all components equals 100%.

[0211] According to another embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological composition is in a solid single-phase form, -Water, at least one oil, at least one wax or vegetable butter or a mixture thereof, a mixture of succinic acid and gluconic acid, at least one surfactant chosen from anionic or amphoteric surfactants, -Sebum absorbent, preservative, gelling agent, sensate; moisturizer; emollient; moisturizer; dye; film-forming and at least one other ingredient selected from: a conditioning agent; an occlusive agent; a conditioning agent; and a fragrance.

[0212] According to a variant of the aforementioned embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological composition comprises: less than 20% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition; 10 to 60% by weight of one to three oils relative to the total weight of the composition; from 1 to 30% by weight of one or two waxes or one or two vegetable butters or a mixture thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition; 0.5 to 5% by weight of a mixture of succinic acid and gluconic acid relative to the total weight of the composition; - 5 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of 1 to 6 surfactants chosen from anionic surfactants or amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants; - 1 to 10 ingredients, present in an amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, selected from sebum absorbents, preservatives, gelling agents, sensates; humectants; emollients; moisturizers; dyes; film-forming agents; occlusive agents; conditioning agents; and fragrances, The sum of the weight percentages of all components equals 100%.

[0213] According to another embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological composition is in a solid single-phase form, -Water, a mixture of succinic acid and gluconic acid, at least one surfactant chosen from anionic or amphoteric surfactants, and at least one other ingredient selected from: sebum absorbents, preservatives, gelling agents, sensates; humectants; emollients; moisturizers; dyes; film-forming agents; occlusive agents; conditioning agents; and fragrances; The composition further comprises lauric acid, or stearic acid, or a mixture thereof.

[0214] According to a variant of the aforementioned embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological composition comprises: less than 20% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition; 0.5 to 5% by weight of a mixture of succinic acid and gluconic acid relative to the total weight of the composition; - 5 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of 1 to 6 surfactants chosen from anionic surfactants or amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants; - 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of 1 to 10 ingredients selected from sebum absorbents, preservatives, gelling agents, sensates; humectants; emollients; moisturizers; dyes; film-forming agents; occlusive agents; conditioning agents; and fragrances; - 1 to 20% by weight of lauric acid relative to the total weight of the composition, and 1 to 20% by weight of stearic acid relative to the total weight of the composition, The sum of the weight percentages of all components equals 100%.

[0215] Process for cleaning and / or removing make-up from keratinous materials - Patent Application 20070122997

[0216] Another subject of the present invention is a process for cleaning and / or removing make-up from keratinous materials, in particular from the skin, scalp or hair, which comprises applying to said keratinous materials, in particular from the skin, a cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0217] According to one embodiment of the process for cleaning and / or removing make-up from keratinous materials, the process preferably comprises an additional and final step of rinsing with water.

[0218] According to one embodiment of the process for cleaning and / or removing make-up from keratinous materials, the process comprises: - applying a cosmetic or dermatological composition; - then leaving the cosmetic or dermatological composition on the keratinous material where it is to be applied for a period ranging from 5 or 10 seconds to 2, 5 or 10 minutes, or as long as the user needs to complete the application; - then rinsing the keratinous material, preferably with water, to remove the cosmetic or dermatological composition.

[0219] The term "rinse-off application" is used herein to indicate that the compositions of the present invention are used in a context where the composition is ultimately rinsed or washed off the hair or skin after or during application of the product, in contrast to the term "leave-on," which refers to compositions that are applied to the hair or skin and do not undergo a rinse-off step.

[0220] Cosmetic use for preventing, reducing, or eliminating skin imperfections

[0221] Another subject of the present invention is the cosmetic, non-therapeutic use of a composition according to the invention for preventing, reducing or eliminating skin imperfections.

[0222] Skin defects are understood to be aesthetic imperfections and should be distinguished from pathological skin disorders. Among skin defects are oily skin, greasy skin, shiny skin, enlarged pores, thick skin texture, redness, itching, loss of radiance, and dull skin.

[0223] Cosmetic use for cleaning and / or removing make-up

[0224] Another subject of the present invention is the cosmetic, non-therapeutic use of a cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the invention for cleaning and / or removing make-up from skin with skin defects or skin disorders, such as acne.

[0225] Treating acne

[0226] The present invention also relates to a composition according to the invention for its use in the treatment of skin disorders such as acne.

[0227] The present invention also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for treating skin disorders such as acne.

[0228] The present invention also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for obtaining a medicament intended to treat skin disorders such as acne.

[0229] The present invention also relates to a method for the therapeutic treatment of skin disorders, such as acne, comprising the step of administering a composition according to the present invention to a patient in need thereof.

[0230] Skin disorders such as acne should be distinguished from skin disorders that cause only aesthetic discomfort. Acne is a chronic inflammatory disease of the pilosebaceous follicles involving four closely related factors: hyperseborrhea, hyperkeratosis, proliferation of Propionobacterium acnes, and inflammation.

[0231] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention makes it possible to treat skin diseases resulting from hyperseborrhea and / or hyperkeratosis and / or proliferation of bacteria of the genus Propionobacterium spp and / or inflammation.

[0232] Therefore, i) and ii) are distinguished. i) for oily skin characterized by the production or excessive production of sebum (seborrhea and hyperseborrhea); A cosmetic skin imperfection that gives the skin an oily and greasy appearance. The skin texture is thicker and open pores cause the skin to reflect less light, giving the appearance of a dull complexion. Imperfections such as red spots and blackheads may appear occasionally. In combination skin, the shine is mainly located in the central area of ​​the face (forehead, nose, chin, commonly known as the T-zone). ii) Pathological skin diseases resulting from the presence and / or proliferation of bacteria of the genus Propionobacterium spp., preferably Propionobacterium acnes, and / or inflammation, and / or hyperkeratosis, and / or hyperseborrhea. Acne-prone skin also has a shiny complexion, open pores, but is left with spots and blackheads and experiences more frequent recurrences.

[0233] The terms "treatment" or "treatment method," as they apply to acne, are not absolute terms and refer to a devised plan of action or procedure that, although unlikely to be successful, should produce an overall beneficial effect, such as delaying the onset of the disease, or reducing the severity of one or more symptoms, or stabilizing the disease.

[0234] Typically, in the case of acne, treatment is understood as delaying the appearance of, or reducing the severity of, or even eliminating skin disorders such as comedones, and / or superficial inflammatory lesions (papules and pustules) and deep inflammatory lesions (nodules) and / or growth of Propionobacterium acnes.

[0235] Excessive seborrhea of ​​the scalp

[0236] Normal hair corresponds to hair that is soft to the touch, flexible, easy to disentangle and style, shiny in appearance, and does not break. The scalp is also healthy, without dandruff, inflammation, or redness. In this case, the sebaceous glands function normally and secrete a small amount of sebum to protect the scalp and smooth the hair. However, the sebaceous glands may be subject to internal imbalances or external aggressors, which may then lead to sebum-producing disorders. Hyperseborrhea is a physiological phenomenon reflected by excessive sebum production. The excessively secreted sebum spreads on the scalp and along the hair shaft, making the hair oily and heavy. The amount of sebum present on the scalp can be measured by various devices known to those skilled in the art. Most are based on applying a translucent plate to the scalp to collect the sebum present and measuring the amount of light transmitted through the plate.

[0237] Cosmetic use for preventing, reducing or eliminating excessive seborrheic conditions in the cosmetic treatment of the scalp

[0238] The present invention relates to the cosmetic, non-therapeutic use of a composition according to the invention for preventing, reducing or eliminating cosmetic excessive seborrheic conditions of the scalp.

[0239] In scalp cosmetology, excessive seborrheic conditions are understood as oily hair and its aesthetic defects, including hair that is weak, lackluster, greasy, messy, rough and difficult to style. This should be distinguished from pathological excessive seborrheic conditions of the scalp.

[0240] Treatment of pathologically excessive seborrheic conditions of the scalp

[0241] The present invention also relates to a composition according to the invention for its use in the treatment of pathological hyperseborrheic conditions of the scalp.

[0242] The present invention also provides a method for treating a condition in which the scalp is pathologically hyperseborrheic, comprising administering to the scalp a composition comprising the compound of the present invention. The present invention relates to the use of a composition according to the present invention.

[0243] The present invention also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for obtaining a medicament intended to treat pathological hyperseborrheic conditions of the scalp.

[0244] The present invention also relates to a method for the therapeutic treatment of a pathological hyperseborrheic condition of the scalp, comprising the step of administering a composition according to the present invention to a patient in need thereof.

[0245] Among the pathological hyper-seborrheic conditions of the scalp, there may be mentioned seborrheic dermatitis or seborrheic alopecia.

[0246] The terms "treatment" or "treatment method," as they apply to seborrheic dermatitis or seborrheic alopecia, are not absolute terms but rather refer to a designed plan of action or procedure that, although unlikely to be successful, should produce an overall beneficial effect, such as delaying the onset of the disease, or reducing the severity of one or more symptoms, or stabilizing the disease.

[0247] Typically, in the case of seborrheic dermatitis, treatment is understood as delaying the appearance of, reducing the severity of, or even eliminating, red plaques covered with white or yellowish scales on the oily areas of the scalp that occur on seborrheic skin.

[0248] Typically, in the case of seborrheic alopecia, treatment is understood as slowing or reducing hair loss, or even elimination of hair loss.

[0249] Therefore, i) and ii) are distinguished. i) A cosmetically excessively seborrheic condition of the scalp which is a cosmetic disorder only and is characterized by oily hair, lacking body, lackluster, greasy, dirty, rough hair and hair that is difficult to style. ii) Pathological hyperseborrheic conditions of the scalp, which may be seborrheic dermatitis or seborrheic alopecia. [Example]

[0250] Example 1: Shower gel

[0251] In this example, a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion was prepared, which composition is reproduced in Table 1 below in the form of a cleansing shower gel.

[0252] [Table 1]

[0253] Phase A1 is prepared by mixing the ingredients of Phase A1 with stirring while heating at 80°C for 40 minutes. Phase A2 is added to Phase A1 while still stirring, and the temperature is maintained at 80°C. Separately, Phase B is prepared by mixing the ingredients of Phase B with stirring at 80°C. Phase B is then added to Phase A1+A2 with stirring at 80°C for 10 minutes. The mixture is cooled to 25°C, and then Phases C and D are added. Finally, the pH is adjusted to a value of 4.6 or higher using the ingredients of Phase E.

[0254] Example 2: Facial cleanser

[0255] In this example, the cosmetic composition is for cleaning and removing makeup and is prepared in the form of an aqueous single-phase solution, the composition of which is set forth in Table 2 below.

[0256] [Table 2]

[0257] Phase A is prepared by mixing the ingredients at 80°C for 40 minutes, then the mixture is cooled to 25°C and phase B is added. The pH is adjusted to a value above 4.6 using gluconolactone and sodium hydroxide.

[0258] Example 3: Clarifying detergent

[0259] In this example, a skin cleansing and clarifying fluid gel is prepared.

[0260] [Table 3]

[0261] The entire preparation is carried out at ambient temperature. Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose and sorbitol are mixed in water with gentle stirring. Carboxymethyl starch is added with gentle stirring until the starch is hydrated. Then, components B and C are added successively, and then it is waited until it is completely dissolved. Then, component D is added successively, and it is waited until it is completely dissolved. Then, component E is added, and it is waited until it is completely dissolved. Finally, ingredients F, G, and H are added.

[0262] Example 4: Shampoo

[0263] In this example, a shampoo is prepared.

[0264] [Table 4]

[0265] Disperse and dissolve component B in phase A with stirring, then add component C and wait until a homogeneous dispersion is achieved. Then, add components D through I successively with gentle stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained. Adjust the pH to 4.6-4.8 with concentrated sodium hydroxide solution.

[0266] Example 5: Body Wash Bar

[0267] In this example, three solid compositions for cleansing the body, referred to as "body wash bars," are prepared.

[0268] [Table 5]

[0269] Phase A is heated to 85-90°C and then homogenized for a short period of time. It is then cooled to 75-80°C with stirring, and then components B to E are added successively with stirring. The mixture is transferred to a mold and allowed to cool to ambient temperature.

[0270] [Table 6]

[0271] Phase A is heated to 85-90°C and then homogenized for a short period of time. It is then cooled to 75-80°C with stirring, and then components B to E are added successively with stirring. The mixture is transferred to a mold and allowed to cool to ambient temperature.

[0272] [Table 7]

[0273] Phase B is prepared separately in a bowl with gentle stirring. Phase B is then added to Phase A and mixed until a homogeneous mixture is obtained. Components C through H are then added successively and allowed to stand for a time sufficient to obtain a homogeneous dispersion. The resulting mixture is then placed in a bowl and allowed to stand at ambient temperature for 24 hours. A "soap" bar is obtained with visible crystals of sodium coco sulfate.

[0274] Example 6: Shower cleanser for face and body

[0275] In this example, four shower cleansers are prepared in different flowable forms (liquid, fluid gel, and thick gel).

[0276] [Table 8]

[0277] Magnesium aluminum silicate and xanthan gum are added one after the other to water heated to 65°C with shear agitation to completely disperse. Agitation is maintained until complete hydration is achieved. The temperature is maintained at 65°C and component B is added. Then, it is cooled to ambient temperature. Components C through F are then added in the order they appear in Table 8, waiting until completely dispersed between each addition to avoid air entrapment. Finally, the pH is adjusted to 4.6-4.8 with concentrated sodium hydroxide solution.

[0278] [Table 9]

[0279] Component B is added to Phase A, then Component C is added to Phase A with stirring, and the mixture is heated to 60° C. It is then subsequently cooled to ambient temperature, and then Phases D through I are added successively with stirring.

[0280] [Table 10]

[0281] Prepare a thick gel wash using the ingredients in Table 10.

[0282] [Table 11]

[0283] A fluid gel cleanser is prepared using the ingredients in Table 11.

[0284] Example 7: Effervescent Bath Powder

[0285] In this example, an effervescent bath powder is prepared.

[0286] [Table 12]

[0287] Prepare an effervescent bath powder according to Table 12.

[0288] [Table 13]

[0289] Prepare an effervescent bath powder according to Table 13.

[0290] Example 8: Bath Powder

[0291] In this example, two "additive powders" for the bath and one "foaming powder" for the bath are prepared.

[0292] [Table 14]

[0293] Prepare an effervescent bath powder according to Table 14.

[0294] [Table 15]

[0295] Prepare an effervescent bath powder according to Table 15.

[0296] [Table 16]

[0297] Prepare a foam bath powder according to Table 16.

[0298] Example 9: Cleansing Scrub for Face and Body

[0299] In this example, three cleansing gel scrubs for face and body are prepared.

[0300] [Table 17]

[0301] Prepare a fluid cleaning gel scrub according to Table 17.

[0302] [Table 18]

[0303] Prepare a fluid cleaning gel scrub according to Table 18.

[0304] [Table 19]

[0305] Prepare a fluid cleaning gel scrub according to Table 19.

[0306] Example 10: "In-Shower" Body Cream or Lotion

[0307] In this example, three lotions to be used in the shower and one cream to be used in the shower that are rinsed off after use are prepared.

[0308] [Table 20]

[0309] An "in-shower lotion" according to Table 20 is prepared in the form of a white cream.

[0310] [Table 21]

[0311] An "in-shower lotion" according to Table 21 is prepared in the form of a white cream.

[0312] [Table 22]

[0313] An "in-shower lotion" according to Table 22 is prepared in the form of a white cream.

[0314] [Table 23]

[0315] An "in-shower lotion" according to Table 22 is prepared in the form of a white cream.

[0316] Example 11: Detergent in solid form

[0317] In this example, solid forms of cleansing agents are prepared: hair and body wash bars, wash bars containing activated carbon, and solid soaps.

[0318] [Table 24]

[0319] Hair and body wash bars according to Table 24 are prepared.

[0320] [Table 25]

[0321] Combine ingredients of Phase A in a mixing bowl. Heat with stirring to 80-85°C. Heat. Maintain this temperature. Then add phase B. Mix the ingredients of phase C separately and then add this premix to the contents of the bowl. Then add ingredients D to G in succession. Once the mixture is well homogenized, pour the preparation into a mold and then leave it to cool to ambient temperature. A solid bar is obtained.

[0322] [Table 26]

[0323] A solid soap according to Table 26 is prepared. Example 12: Body Cleansing Spray

[0324] In this example, a hydroalcoholic solution is prepared that can be used in a body spray that is applied and washed off.

[0325] [Table 27]

[0326] A two-phase spray according to Table 27 is prepared.

[0327] [Table 28]

[0328] A single-phase liquid spray according to Table 28 is prepared.

[0329] Example 13: Solution for Cleaning Wipes

[0330] In this example, a solution is prepared for impregnating cleaning wipes.

[0331] [Table 29]

[0332] A solution capable of impregnating cleaning wipes according to Table 29 is prepared.

[0333] Example 14: "Sulfate-Free" Wash-Off Solution for Face and Body

[0334] [Table 30]

[0335] Prepare a sulfate-free rinse-off solution according to Table 30.

[0336] Example 15: Hair and body cleanser

[0337] [Table 31]

[0338] A hair and body wash according to Table 31 is prepared.

Claims

[Claim 1] 1. A cosmetic or dermatological composition for cleaning and / or removing make-up from keratinous materials, comprising: Water and 0.5 to 5% by weight of a mixture of succinic acid and gluconic acid, based on the total weight of the composition; 5 to 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of 1 to 6 surfactants chosen from anionic surfactants, or amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants; 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one other ingredient selected from sebum absorbents, preservatives, gelling agents, sensates, humectants, emollients, moisturizers, dyes, film formers, occlusive agents, conditioning agents, and fragrances; A composition comprising:

Images