Textile structure and manufacturing method relating therewith

Abstract

To provide a textile structure and a method capable of incorporating a functional sewing yarn while reducing influence on the appearance and aesthetic features of a front surface of a base fabric.SOLUTION: In a base fabric 2 having a front surface F and a back surface B at mutually opposite sides with respect to a central horizontal plane P, weft yarns 4a, 4b, and 4c interlace with warp yarns 3 at respective interlacing points IPa, IPb, and IPc at which the weft yarns traverse the central horizontal plane P to override at least one of the warp yarns. At least one functional sewing thread 5 extends along a predetermined pattern at the back surface B of the base fabric 2, without traversing the central horizontal plane P, and is linked with the weft yarns 4a, 4b, and 4c at stitch points SP located between the central horizontal plane P and the back surface B of the base fabric 2, so that the stitch points SP are not visible from the front surface F opposite to the back surface B.SELECTED DRAWING: Figure 2

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a textile structure. It also relates to a method for manufacturing the textile structure. More specifically, the textile structure includes one or more functional threads suitable for meeting specific technical needs. For example, the functional threads may be conductive threads used to transmit signals or electrical energy through the textile structure, and the textile structure may have the properties of a textile circuit board. The conductive threads may also function as resistors in the textile structure with heater properties. In particular, the conductive threads may also function as antenna loops associated with the textile structure to form an RFID system after RFID application.

[0002] As used herein, "yarn" or "thread" means an assemblage of one or more threads, each made from a single continuous elongated element, or of fibers twisted or made to twist together to form a continuous strand. [Background technology]

[0003] Several textile structures and associated weaving methods are known that provide additional and / or functional threads.

[0004] For example, US2022235499A1 discloses a weaving structure in which cover threads are laid in a zigzag pattern and introduced into a shed of warp threads from above by respective feed needles so that the cover threads are interwoven with the weft threads carried by a weft thread insertion device and thereby joined to the fabric by the weft threads.

[0005] The ends of the zigzag sequence secure the warp yarns and prevent them from fraying. The ends of the zigzag sequence may be further secured by additional cover stitches, which may be introduced by additional feed needles and employ a zigzag interlaced sequence.

[0006] US 2013 / 0118633 A1 discloses a loom in which fixed warp threads are inserted into the fabric by respective warp-laying elements during production. One or more additional cover threads, which may be conductive or functional threads, are also inserted in a desired sequence by cover-thread guides. The warp-laying elements can move laterally, laying fixed warp threads along the warp-thread direction to fix the cover threads, allowing for new patterns and effects.

[0007] US2023096264A1 provides a woven fabric structure in which a weft thread is positioned at a specific point on a fabric while floating above a plurality of adjacent warp threads. A cover thread, which may be a functional thread such as an RFID antenna, is positioned under the floating weft thread at any point between the start and end of the floating weft thread by a feed needle. The cover thread is thereby tied to the weft thread, and is thereby accurately positioned at the start or end of the floating weft thread area depending on the location of the previous and next joining or bonding points.

[0008] The cover thread or functional thread may be laid on the base fabric without being lowered into the open shed, while being secured to the fabric by anchor threads that are lowered into the open shed and secured to the weft yarns of the base fabric.

[0009] However, the known technical solutions have several limitations and drawbacks. Indeed, the functional threads and the stitch points of the base fabric tend to be easily visible from the front side of the fabric. This situation makes the known technical solutions unsuitable for certain applications, such as, for example, when incorporating functional threads into labels, where the appearance of the front side of the fabric is important. Summary of the Invention

[0010] The object of the present invention is essentially to propose a textile structure and a method that overcomes the problems encountered in the known art and makes it possible to incorporate functional sewing threads while reducing the impact on the appearance and aesthetic characteristics of the front side of the base fabric.

[0011] In particular, the present invention aims to enable the production of textile structures incorporating functional sewing threads, which are suitable for use in applications requiring high aesthetic quality, such as the production of labels, binding elements or garment inserts.

[0012] A further object of the invention is to propose a woven structure which can be obtained at low cost by a simplified weaving process.

[0013] More specifically, the subject of the present invention is a textile structure according to one or more of claims 1 to 11, comprising a base fabric including warp yarns extending along a warp direction and weft yarns extending along a weft direction, the base fabric having a front surface and a back surface on either side of a median lying plane of the base fabric, the weft yarns interwoven with the warp yarns at respective interlace points, and at each interlace point the weft yarns override at least one of the warp yarns across the median lying plane, the textile structure further comprising at least one functional thread extending according to a predetermined pattern on the back surface of the base fabric, the at least one functional thread being arranged on the base fabric without crossing the median lying plane, the functional thread being connected to one or more weft yarns at stitch points arranged between the median lying plane and the back surface of the base fabric, so that the stitch points are not visible from a front surface opposite the back surface.

[0014] A further aspect of the present invention relates to a method for producing a woven structure according to one or more of claims 12 to 15, comprising: arranging warp yarns extending along the warp direction such that a first series of warp yarns alternates with a second series of warp yarns; inserting weft yarns along a weft direction transverse to the warp direction across open sheds formed by the first and second series converging with each other in a weaving zone along the warp direction; interchanging the first and second series to interweave the weft and warp yarns in the weaving zone, whereby The method includes interweaving weft yarns and warp yarns at respective interlace points to form a base fabric; disposing at least one functional thread on the warp yarns adjacent to the woven area, the functional thread being disposed on a rear surface of the base fabric without crossing a central transverse plane of the base fabric; and connecting the at least one functional thread to the weft yarns by stitch points disposed between the central transverse plane and the rear surface, such that the stitch points are not visible from a front surface of the base fabric opposite the rear surface.

[0015] The Applicant believes that by locating stitch points on the rear surface of the woven structure, i.e. between each weft yarn and the corresponding warp yarn, or in any case between the central transverse plane and the rear surface (i.e. on the central transverse plane facing the rear surface of the base fabric), it is possible to effectively hide the interlacing points when the woven structure is viewed from the front side, thus improving the quality of the woven structure in terms of appearance and aesthetics, which is of great advantage, especially in relation to labels and / or similar products where visual appearance is an important requirement.

[0016] In at least one preferred embodiment, the present invention further comprises one or more of the preferred features listed below.

[0017] Preferably, the weft yarns include parallel base weft yarns and anchor weft yarns configured to connect at least one functional thread to the base fabric.

[0018] Preferably, the interlace points formed by the basic weft yarns are aligned along the warp direction.

[0019] Preferably, the interlace points formed by the anchor weft yarns are offset along the weft direction relative to the interlace points formed by the base weft yarns.

[0020] Preferably, the base weft yarn and the anchor weft yarn are derived from the same continuous stitching thread.

[0021] Preferably, the base weft yarn and the anchor weft yarn are each derived from a different continuous stitching thread.

[0022] Preferably, on the front surface of the base fabric, the interlace points of the anchor weft yarns are covered by the base weft yarns, so that the interlace points formed by the anchor weft yarns are not visible from the front surface.

[0023] Preferably, on the front side of the base fabric, the interlace points of the anchor weft yarns are interposed between the base weft yarns and the warp yarns.

[0024] Preferably, on the front surface of the base fabric, the basic weft yarns each have a floating section that extends straight over a group of warp yarns between respective interlace points.

[0025] Preferably, the floating sections of mutually adjacent basic weft yarns cover the interlace points of the fixed weft yarns.

[0026] Preferably, the weft yarn further comprises a pattern weft yarn, the pattern weft yarn having an exposed section facing the front side of the base fabric on the basic weft yarn and a hidden section facing the back side of the base fabric.

[0027] Preferably, at least one fixing yarn interwoven with at least one functional yarn and said weft yarn is provided on the rear surface of the base fabric to connect the functional yarn and the base fabric.

[0028] Preferably, at least one fixed yarn is interwoven with said anchor weft yarn.

[0029] Preferably, the functional thread has a warp section extending along the warp direction and a weft section extending transverse to the warp direction.

[0030] Preferably, the at least one fixing thread extends in a zigzag pattern overriding the functional thread along the longitudinal development of the functional thread.

[0031] Preferably, each of said at least one functional thread is interwoven with the anchor weft thread by a plurality of mutually parallel fixing threads each extending substantially along the warp direction.

[0032] Preferably, each fixing yarn is stitched to the anchor weft yarn with stitch points that are evenly distributed according to a zigzag pattern extending along the warp direction.

[0033] Preferably, at least one of the fixation threads extends in a zigzag pattern, overriding the warp sections of the functional threads.

[0034] Preferably, at least one of the warp sections of the functional thread overrides one of the fixed threads and follows a zigzag pattern.

[0035] Preferably, the weft yarns directly engage the functional threads on the rear surface of the base fabric.

[0036] Preferably, the functional thread is directly engaged with at least one of the anchor weft threads.

[0037] Preferably, inserting the weft yarn includes, in each subsequent weaving cycle, inserting a base weft yarn and inserting an anchor weft yarn across the open shed, and the functional thread is connected to the anchor weft yarn.

[0038] Preferably, the pattern weft yarn is inserted across the open shed.

[0039] Preferably, joining the at least one functional thread includes forming, with a fixing thread, at least one stitch point that engages the anchor weft thread and the functional thread.

[0040] Preferably, forming said at least one stitch point comprises inserting a set yarn into an open shed across one of said series of warp yarns and interweaving the set yarn with a weft yarn introduced across the open shed.

[0041] Preferably, in the woven structure, at least one fixation yarn is interwoven with a weft yarn at stitch points distributed on both sides of the functional thread along the longitudinal development of the functional thread.

[0042] Preferably, the plurality of fixed yarns are interwoven with the weft yarns at stitch points distributed on either side of one of the warp yarns along the longitudinal development of the warp yarns.

[0043] Preferably, joining at least one functional thread comprises interweaving said functional thread with a corresponding weft thread at a stitch point.

[0044] Preferably, the functional thread is inserted into the open shed across one of said series of warp threads and is interwoven with the weft thread introduced across the open shed.

[0045] Additional features and advantages will become more apparent from the detailed description of preferred, but not exclusive, embodiments of the woven structure and method of manufacturing the same according to the present invention. [Brief explanation of the drawings]

[0046] Such a description is given below with reference to a set of drawings, which are provided purely as non-limiting examples. [Figure 1] 1 shows a schematic top view of a woven structure of the present invention looking towards the front of its base fabric. [Figure 2] 1 is a schematic cross-section of a woven structure taken along a plane parallel to the weft direction WF. [Figure 3] 3 is a bottom view of the woven structure of FIG. 2 according to the first embodiment, looking toward the rear of the base fabric. [Figure 4-10] 1A-1D show diagrammatically in perspective views the steps of a method for manufacturing a textile structure according to a first embodiment; [Figure 11] 4 is a bottom view similar to FIG. 3 of a woven structure according to a second embodiment. [Figures 12a-15a] 12A and 12B show diagrammatically in side view the steps of a method for manufacturing a textile structure according to a second embodiment of the invention; [Figures 12b-15b] The steps of Figures 12a-15a are shown schematically in top view. [Figure 16] FIG. 10 is a bottom view of the third embodiment. [Figure 17] 10 is a schematic cross-section of a woven structure taken along a cross section parallel to the weft direction WF according to a fourth embodiment. [Figure 18] FIG. 10 is a bottom view of the fourth embodiment. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0047] With reference to the accompanying drawings, a woven structure according to the present invention is designated by the reference numeral 1.

[0048] The woven structure 1 comprises a base fabric 2 including warp yarns 3 extending along a warp direction WR and weft yarns 4a, 4b, 4c extending along a weft direction WF, which is substantially perpendicular to the warp direction WR or in any case transverse to the warp direction WR.

[0049] In the example shown here, the warp yarns 3 are preferably coplanar, defining a central transverse plane P of the base fabric 2 that includes the longitudinal geometric axes of the warp yarns 3. In a possible alternative embodiment, the warp yarns 3 may be offset from one another. In the latter case, the central transverse plane P of the base fabric 2 is equidistant from the longitudinal geometric axes of the offset warp yarns 3.

[0050] The base fabric 2 has a front surface F and a back surface B which are opposite to the central transverse plane P and extend parallel to each other and equidistant from the central transverse plane P.

[0051] Weft yarns 4a, 4b, 4c are interwoven with warp yarns 3 at respective interlace points IP. At each interlace point IPa, IPb, weft yarns 4a, 4b, 4c cross the central transverse plane P. Each weft yarn 4a, 4b, 4c may be interwoven with warp yarns 3 according to any desired sequence, and between every two mutually subsequent interlace points IPa, IPb, weft yarns 4a, 4b, 4c override one or more warp yarns 3 and alternately shift across the central transverse plane P from the front face F to the back face B, and vice versa.

[0052] Preferably, among the weft yarns 4a, 4b, and 4c, at least the base weft yarn 4a and the anchor weft yarn 4b are distinguishable.

[0053] The basic weft yarns 4a are preferably formed according to one or more groups, each consisting of two or more basic weft yarns 4a extending parallel to one another so as to engage with the warp yarns 3 according to the same basic interlace sequence, which is the same for all basic weft yarns 4a belonging to the same group. Thus, the basic interlace points IPa formed by a basic weft yarn 4a or each group thereof are respectively aligned along the warp direction WR. Preferably, at least on the front surface F of the base fabric 2, the basic weft yarns 4a have floating sections FS extending straight above a group of warp yarns 3 between their respective basic interlace points IPa.

[0054] The anchor weft yarns 4b are interwoven with the warp yarns 3 according to an anchor interlace sequence, which is preferably different from the basic interlace sequence. According to the anchor interlace sequence, the anchor interlace points IPb formed by the anchor weft yarns 4b are offset in the warp direction WR with respect to the basic interlace points IPa formed by the basic weft yarns 4a.

[0055] If desired, the base weft yarn 4a and the anchor weft yarn 4b may be interwoven with the warp yarn 3 according to mutually different base interlace sequences and anchor interlace sequences, and may be derived from the same continuous thread supplied during the weaving process to define the base weft yarn 4a and the anchor weft yarn 4b, respectively.

[0056] In a further embodiment, separate continuous threads, which may differ in material, diameter, color, etc., may be provided to form the base weft thread 4a and anchor weft thread 4b, respectively.

[0057] The anchor interlace points IPb may be covered by the basic weft yarns 4a on the front side F of the base fabric 2. In fact, as shown schematically in Figures 2 and 17, the floating sections FS of adjacent basic weft yarns 4a may cover all or part of the anchor interlace points IPb of the anchor weft yarns 4b. Thus, the anchor interlace points IPb are interposed between the basic weft yarns 4a and the warp yarns 3 of the base fabric 2. These measures promote the hiding of the anchor interlace points IPb formed by the anchor weft yarns 4b, so that they remain invisible or almost invisible when the textile structure 1 is viewed from the front side F. By selecting a special continuous weft yarn 4b as the anchor weft yarn 4b, which has a diameter smaller than that of the basic weft yarns 4a, the efficient hiding of the anchor interlace points IPb can be improved.

[0058] The weft yarns 4a, 4b, and 4c may further include a pattern weft yarn 4c. Each pattern weft yarn 4c has an exposed section ES superimposed on the basic weft yarn 4a so as to face the front surface F of the base fabric 2, and a hidden section HS facing the back surface B of the base fabric 2. Pattern interlace points IPc are each provided along the pattern weft yarn 4c, across the central transverse plane P, between one of the exposed sections ES and the subsequent hidden section. Each exposed section extends between two respective pattern interlace points IPc and overrides one or more warp yarns 3 according to the desired pattern interlace sequence. Preferably, the pattern weft yarn 4c is derived from one or more continuous threads of the respective pattern, distinct from the continuous weft thread used for the basic weft yarn 4a. The various interlacing sequences of each pattern weft yarn 4c may be selected and combined according to a predetermined weaving program to form any desired graphic, symbol or letter on the front side F of the base fabric 2.

[0059] Preferably, the pattern weft yarns 4c cover the underlying basic weft yarns 4a and / or anchor weft yarns 4b having interlace points IPa, IPb through their exposed sections ES. These measures further improve the concealment of the anchor interlace points IPb, making them invisible when the textile structure 1 is viewed from the front side F. By selecting a diameter for the pattern weft yarns 4c that is larger than the diameter of the basic weft yarns 4a and / or anchor weft yarns 4b, the effective concealment can be improved.

[0060] The textile structure 1 further comprises one or more functional threads 5 extending according to a predetermined pattern on the rear face B of the base fabric 2. The functional threads 5 may consist of conductive threads that function, for example, as antennas, so as to form an RFID system in combination with an RFID chipset associated with the textile structure 1. In such a case, the functional threads 5 may each extend according to a wavy pattern, with warp sections 5a extending along the warp direction WR interspersed in an alternating sequence with weft sections 5b extending along the weft direction WF or, in any case, extending transversely to the warp direction WR.

[0061] In different embodiments, the functional threads 5 may be used to transmit electrical current or signals. The functional threads 5 may also be realized in the form of optical fibers.

[0062] Each functional thread 5 is located on the back surface B of the base fabric 2 and is connected to one or more weft threads 4a, 4b, 4c without crossing the central transverse plane P. More specifically, the connection between the functional threads 5 and the base fabric 2 is preferably achieved by anchor weft threads 4b. In fact, the functional threads 5 are preferably connected to one or more anchor weft threads 4b by stitch points SP located between the central transverse plane P and the back surface B of the base fabric 2. Therefore, the functional threads 5 and stitch points SP are not visible from the front surface F opposite the back surface B, even in the absence of pattern weft threads 4c. Furthermore, the stitch points SP are arranged such that their presence does not affect the correct placement of the basic weft threads 4a and / or pattern weft threads 4c on the front surface F.

[0063] More specifically, in the first, second and third embodiments, better shown in Figures 2-3, 11 and 16, respectively, stitch points SP are formed along one or more fixing yarns 6 that are used to connect functional yarns 5 to anchor weft yarns 4b. In fact, each fixing yarn 6 is interwoven with a corresponding anchor weft yarn 4b and also with a functional yarn 5 located on the back surface B of the base fabric 2.

[0064] According to a first embodiment, better shown in Figures 2 and 3, each functional thread 5 may be connected to the base fabric 2 by a single fixing thread 6 that extends substantially according to a zigzag pattern that overrides the functional thread 5 along the longitudinal development of the functional thread 5. Such fixing thread 6 engages the functional thread 5 and a portion of the anchor weft thread 4b at respective stitch points SP distributed along both the weft section 5b and the warp section 5a.

[0065] As can be clearly derived from FIG. 2, the stitch points SP are located on the rear face B, so that neither the functional threads 5 nor the fixing threads 6 cross the central transverse plane P of the base fabric 2.

[0066] The textile structure 1 can be advantageously produced by a weaving machine 7 equipped with a device for incorporating additional knitting threads and / or cover threads. In the following description, only a part of the weaving machine 7 is described. The remaining parts can be produced in any convenient manner and are therefore not shown or described in detail here. The weaving machine 7 can be, for example, a needle loom, a rapier loom, or any other type of weaving machine. To realize the present invention, for example, weaving machines of the type already known from WO 2017 / 042015 A1 in the name of the same applicant can be used.

[0067] The basic operating cycle for forming the base fabric 2 is carried out in a known manner, whereby the warp yarns 3 extending along the warp direction WR are arranged to form a first series S1 of warp yarns 3 and a second series S2 of warp yarns 3, which are alternately arranged with one another according to a predetermined weaving program. The warp yarns 3 belonging to the first series S1 and the second series S2, respectively, diverge from one another to form an open shed 8 across which at least one weft yarn 4a, 4b, 4c is inserted by a weft insertion device 9 along a weft direction WF transverse to the warp direction WR.

[0068] Next, the warp yarns 3 belonging to the first series S1 and the second series S2 are exchanged with each other and interwoven with the weft yarns 4a, 4b, 4c in the weaving zone 10 where the first series S1 and the second series S2 of warp yarns 3 converge. In this way, the base fabric 2 is formed by the weft yarns 4a, 4b, 4c interwoven with the warp yarns 3 at their respective interlacing points IPa, IPb, IPc. A movable reed 11 compresses the weft yarns 4a, 4b, 4c against the previously formed base fabric 2 in the weaving zone 10. During the weaving process, changing the mutual distribution sequence between the warp yarns assigned to the first series S1 and the second series S2, respectively, and / or inserting a separate weft yarn in the open shed 8 in addition to or instead of the weft yarn used to form the basic weft yarn 4a, allows the anchor weft yarn 4b to be inserted into the base fabric 2 according to the desired sequence.

[0069] Figures 4 to 10 each represent several different angles of rotation of the main axis on which the movement of the moving parts of the weaving machine 7 depends, and show several steps for engaging the functional threads 5 and the fixation threads 6 with the base fabric 2 to achieve the embodiment of Figures 2 and 3. The pattern weft threads 4c and the associated mechanical parts of the weaving machine 7 are not shown here, as they may operate in a known manner.

[0070] In Figure 4 (main shaft rotation angle = 0°), the functional threads 5 and the fixed threads 6 are carried by the functional thread guides 12 and the fixed thread guides 13, respectively, which are independently movable over the weaving area 10. The functional thread guides 12 and the fixed thread guides 13 are in a raised position relative to the weaving area 10. The sheds 8 formed by the warp threads 3 are closed and the reeds 11 have been advanced to a beat-up position in the weaving area 10 so as to compress the previously inserted basic weft threads 4a, 4b, 4c against the base fabric 2. The warp section 5a of the functional threads 5 has already been fixed to the back face B of the base fabric 2 by the fixed threads 6 which extend according to a zigzag pattern.

[0071] 5 (main shaft rotation angle=10°), the functional thread guide 12 and fixed thread guide 13 in the raised position move along the weft direction WF, while the reed 11 begins to move backward from the beat-up position, i.e., away from the weaving area 10. The fixed thread guide 13 and functional thread guide 12 may be configured to mimic the movement of the reed 11 along the warp direction WR. However, the fixed thread guide 13 is slightly advanced relative to the functional thread guide 12 (i.e., further from the reed 11 and closer to the hook member 14), so that the fixed thread 6 is engaged by the movable hook member 14 operating above the weaving area 10.

[0072] In Figure 6 (main shaft rotation angle = 30°), the reed 11 continues to move rearward and the shed 8 begins to open. The fixed thread guide 13 begins to retract and the fixed thread 6 is wound around the hook member 14. Meanwhile, the functional thread guide 12, moving in the weft direction WF, overtakes the fixed thread guide 13 and extends the functional thread 5 behind the fixed thread 6.

[0073] In Figure 7 (main shaft rotation angle = 60°), the reed 11 is still moving backward and the opening of the shed 8 is progressing. The hook members 14 lower the fixed yarns 6 onto the base fabric 2, while the fixed yarn guides 13 descend from their raised positions to enter the shed 8 at a predetermined position and insert the fixed yarns 6 across the first series S1 of warp yarns 3 into the open shed 8. Meanwhile, the functional yarns 5 are engaged with the fixed yarns 6 and are lowered together with the engaged fixed yarns 6 towards the base fabric 2. Thus, the functional yarns 5 are positioned in the weaving zone 10 on the warp yarns 3.

[0074] In Figure 8 (main shaft rotation angle = 90°), the reed 11 is still moving rearward and the opening of the shed 8 is about to be completed. The hook members 14 hold the fixed yarn 6 on the base fabric 2, and the fixed yarn guide 13 moves rearward with the reed 11. The functional thread 5 remains engaged with the fixed yarn 6 and is lowered towards the base fabric 2 without crossing the central transverse plane P.

[0075] In Figure 9 (main shaft rotation angle = 180°), the weft insertion device 9 inserts the anchor weft yarn 4b along the weft direction WF through the open shed 8, whereby it is interwoven with the fixed yarn 6 lowered into the shed 8 via the warp yarn 3.

[0076] In Figure 10 (main axis rotation angle = 360°), the reed 11 returns to the beat-up position to compress the anchor weft yarns 4a, 4b, 4c, together with the functional threads 5 and the fixing threads 6, against the already formed base fabric 2. Meanwhile, the hook members 14 release the fixing threads 6. Thus, stitch points SP are formed by the fixing threads 6 engaging with the anchor weft yarns 4b and the functional threads 5 along the weft section 5b of the functional threads 5. Thus, the functional threads 5 are connected to the base fabric 2, while the stitch points SP remain located between the central transverse plane P and the back face B, and thus are not visible from the front face F of the base fabric 2.

[0077] In subsequent operating cycles, the functional threads 5 may be placed and secured to the base fabric 2 in a similar manner.

[0078] In a known manner, base weft yarns 4a and pattern weft yarns 4c may be inserted across the open shed 8 along with anchor weft yarns 4b and / or during subsequent weaving cycles to form the woven structure 1.

[0079] The functional thread guide 12 and the fixed thread guide 13 are movable independently of each other, so that the deposition patterns of the functional thread 5 and the fixed thread 6 may be changed independently in each operating cycle in order to give any desired final shape to the functional thread 5. In particular, once the warp section 5a of the functional thread 5 has been formed, the movement of the functional thread guide 12 in the weft direction WF is stopped and the fixed thread 6 is interwoven with the weft threads 4a, 4b, 4c at stitch points SP distributed on both sides of the functional thread 5 along the longitudinal development of the functional thread 5.

[0080] In the second and third embodiments of Figures 11 and 16, a plurality of fixing threads 6 are provided for each functional thread 5, each extending parallel to one another substantially along the warp direction WR.

[0081] 11, each fixing thread 6 may be stitched to the anchor weft thread 4b with stitch points SP evenly distributed according to a zigzag pattern extending along the warp direction WR. Therefore, the fixing threads 6 also extend along a zigzag pattern. For some fixing threads 6, i.e., fixing threads 6 arranged on both sides of multiple fixing threads 6 provided on the same functional thread 5, their zigzag pattern overrides the functional thread 5 along the longitudinal extension of the functional thread 5 in their respective warp sections 5a. Other fixing threads 6 override the functional thread 5 laterally along the warp direction WR, substantially perpendicularly, in their respective weft sections 5b.

[0082] Several stages of engaging the functional threads 5 and the fixation threads 6 with the base fabric 2 according to the manufacturing process of the embodiment of Figure 11 are shown schematically in Figures 12a to 15b, at different rotation angles of the main shaft of the weaving machine 7. In this example, three different functional threads 5 are simultaneously engaged with the base fabric 2. Again, the pattern weft threads 4c and the associated machine parts of the weaving machine 7 are not shown.

[0083] Figures 12a and 12b (main shaft rotation angle = 0°) show the end of the previous weaving cycle, where the sheds 8 formed by the warp yarns 3 are closed and the reeds 11 are placed in the beat-up position.

[0084] The fixed thread guides 13 and functional thread guides 12, one for each fixed thread 6, are in their raised positions above the weaving area 10. The hook members 14 are also elevated above the weaving area 10.

[0085] Figures 13a and 13b (main shaft rotation angle equal to or slightly greater than 0°) represent the start of a new weaving cycle: the shed 8 is still closed and the reed 11 remains in the beat-up position.

[0086] The fixed yarn guides 13 move slightly along the weft direction WF to shift each fixed yarn 6 onto a respective warp yarn 3 in the base fabric 2. The functional yarn guides 12 move along the weft direction WF to extend the weft section 5b of each functional yarn 5 over the weaving area 10. The hook members 14 begin to descend towards the weaving area 10.

[0087] 14a and 14b (main shaft rotation angle=180°) show a subsequent operating stage, in which the shed 8 formed by the warp threads 3 is open and the reed 11 moves backward from the beat-up position. The fixed thread guide 13 and the functional thread guide 12 may be configured to mimic the movement of the reed 11 along the warp direction WR, with the fixed thread guide 13 slightly ahead of the functional thread guide 12 (i.e. further from the reed 11 and closest to the hook member 14). The fixed thread guides 13 move down from their raised position and enter the shed 8 at their respective predetermined positions, so that the fixed thread 6 is inserted downwards into the open shed 8 via the first series S1 of warp threads 3.

[0088] Meanwhile, the hook members 14 descend towards the base fabric 2 and engage the functional threads 5 on the weaving area 10. Thus, each functional thread 5 is held in the weaving area 10 on the warp yarns 3 without crossing the central transverse plane P, while each fixation yarn 6 descends into the shed 8 via the warp yarns 3 and is stitched onto the respective functional thread 5, for example, at its weft section 5b. Thereafter, the weft insertion device 9 inserts the anchor weft yarn 4b through the open shed 8 in the weft direction WF, and it is woven with the fixation yarns 6.

[0089] 15a and 15b (main axis rotation angle=360°) show the end of a new weaving cycle, where the shed 8 is newly closed and the reed 11 is again moved to the beat-up position to compress the anchor weft yarn against the base fabric 2 previously formed in the weaving area 10. The hook members 14 release the functional threads, while the fixed yarn guides 13 are retracted to their raised positions and move together with the functional thread guides 5 and the reed 11 onto the base fabric 2. In this embodiment, too, the base weft yarns 4a and pattern weft yarns 4c are inserted across the open shed 8 together with the anchor weft yarns 4b and / or during subsequent weaving cycles to form the woven fabric structure 1.

[0090] The independent movement of the functional thread guide 12 and the fixed thread guide 13, in particular along the weft direction WF, allows the stacking design of the functional threads 5 and the fixed threads 6 to be changed as desired in each operating cycle. In particular, the movement of the functional thread guide 12 in the weft direction WF can be stopped during several subsequent weaving cycles in order to form warp sections 5a of the functional threads 5, the fixed threads 6 being interwoven with the weft threads 4a, 4b, 4c at stitch points SP distributed on both sides of the functional threads 5 along their longitudinal development.

[0091] A possible alternative embodiment shown in Figure 16 can be obtained by stopping the movement of the fixed yarn guides 13 along the weft direction WF and slightly moving the functional thread 5 guides during the deposition of the warp sections 5a. This alternative embodiment differs from the embodiment disclosed with reference to Figure 13 in that the fixed yarns 6 extend linearly and all their stitch points SP are aligned with one another along the warp direction WR. In this case, the warp sections 5a of the functional threads 5 extend according to a zigzag pattern around the aligned stitch points SP formed by the respective fixed yarns 6. The weft sections 5b of the functional threads 5 are fixed between each two consecutive stitch points SP of the respective fixed yarns 6.

[0092] In a further alternative embodiment shown in Figures 17 and 18, the weft yarns 4a, 4b, 4c, i.e. the anchor weft yarn 4b, directly engage with the functional stitching thread 5 on the rear surface B of the base fabric 2, forming stitch points SP located between the central transverse plane P and the rear surface B, as can be derived from Figure 17.

[0093] As shown in Figure 18, each warp section 5a of the functional thread 5 is engaged by several anchor weft yarns 4b aligned along the warp direction WR, each at a respective stitch point SP. Each stitch point SP along the weft section 5b remains fixed between two interlace points IPb formed along the same anchor weft yarn 4b diagonally crossed by the weft section 5b.

[0094] This embodiment may simplify the construction and manufacturing of the textile structure 1, especially if the functional threads 5 are strong enough to withstand the large stresses applied during manufacturing.

[0095] 17 and 18 can be obtained by an arrangement similar to that of the embodiment of FIGS. 4-10 and 12-15, without using a fixed thread guide 13, but by arranging a functional thread guide 12 to enter the open shed 8 via the warp thread 3, so that the functional thread 5 is interwoven at each stitch point SP by the anchor weft thread 4b, similar to that disclosed above with respect to the fixed thread 6. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0096] [Patent Document 1] US2022235499A1 [Patent Document 2] US 2013 / 0118633 A1 [Patent Document 3] US2023096264A1 [Patent Document 4] WO2017 / 042015A1

Claims

1. 1. A woven structure comprising: The fabric comprises a base fabric (2) including warp yarns (3) extending along a warp direction (WR) and weft yarns (4a, 4b, 4c) extending along a weft direction (WF), The base fabric (2) has a front surface (F) and a back surface (B) on either side of a central transverse plane (P) of the base fabric (2), said weft yarns (4a, 4b, 4c) are interwoven with said warp yarns (3) at respective interlace points (IPa, IPb, IPc) where said weft yarns (4a, 4b, 4c) override at least one of said warp yarns (3) across said central transverse plane (P); The textile structure further comprises at least one functional thread (5) extending according to a predetermined pattern on the rear surface (B) of the base fabric (2); The at least one functional thread (5) is provided on the base fabric (2) without crossing the central transverse plane (P), The functional threads (5) are connected to one or more weft yarns (4b) at stitch points (SP) located between the central transverse plane (P) and the back surface (B) of the base fabric (2), so that the stitch points (SP) are not visible from the front surface (F) opposite the back surface (B).

2. The weft yarns (4a, 4b, 4c) are Parallel basic weft yarns (4a), and an anchor weft yarn (4b) configured to connect the at least one functional thread (5) to the base fabric (2); 2. The woven structure according to claim 1, wherein the interlace points (IPb) formed by the anchor weft yarns (4b) are offset along the weft direction (WF) relative to the interlace points (IPa) formed by the basic weft yarns (4a).

3. 3. The woven structure according to claim 1 or 2, wherein on the front surface of the base fabric (2), the basic weft yarns (4a) each have a floating section (FS) extending straight over a group of the warp yarns (3) between their respective interlace points (IPa), and the floating sections (FS) of mutually adjacent basic weft yarns (4a) cover the interlace points (IPa, IPb, IPc) of the anchor weft yarns (4b).

4. 4. The woven structure according to claim 1, wherein the weft yarns (4a, 4b, 4c) further comprise a pattern weft yarn (4c) having an exposed section (ES) on the basic weft yarn (4a) facing the front surface (F) of the base fabric (2) and a hidden section (HS) facing the back surface (B) of the base fabric (2).

5. 5. The textile structure according to any one or more of claims 1 to 4, further comprising at least one fixing yarn (6) interwoven with said weft yarns (4a, 4b, 4c) and at least one functional thread (5) on said back surface (B) of said base fabric (2), said functional thread (5) being connected to said base fabric (2).

6. 6. The woven structure of claim 5, wherein said at least one fixed yarn (6) is interwoven with said anchor weft yarn (4b).

7. 7. The textile structure according to claim 5 or 6, wherein the at least one fixing thread (6) extends according to a zigzag pattern, overriding the functional thread (5) along the longitudinal development of the functional thread (5).

8. 8. A textile structure according to any one or more of the preceding claims, wherein each of said at least one functional thread (5) is interwoven with said anchor weft thread (4b) by means of a plurality of mutually parallel fixing threads (6), each extending substantially along said warp direction (WR).

9. 9. The textile structure according to any one or more of claims 5 to 8, wherein at least one of the fixing yarns (6) overrides the warp sections (5a) of the functional threads (5) and extends according to a zigzag pattern.

10. 10. The textile structure according to any one or more of claims 5 to 9, wherein at least one warp section (5a) of the functional thread (5) overrides one of the fixing threads (6) and extends according to a zigzag pattern.

11. 11. The textile structure according to any one or more of the preceding claims, wherein the weft yarns (4b) directly engage the functional threads (5) on the rear surface (B) of the base fabric (2).

12. A method for manufacturing a textile structure (1), comprising: Arranging warp yarns (3) extending along the warp direction (WR) such that a first series (S1) of warp yarns (3) alternates with a second series (S2) of warp yarns (3); Inserting weft yarns (4a, 4b, 4c) along a weft direction (WF) transverse to the warp direction (WR) across an open shed (8) formed by the first series (S1) and the second series (S2) converging with each other in a weaving region (10) along the warp direction (WR); interlacing the weft yarns (4a, 4b, 4c) with the warp yarns (3) in the weaving zone (10) by interchanging the first series (S1) with the second series (S2), thereby forming a base fabric (2) by interlacing the weft yarns (4a, 4b, 4c) with the warp yarns (3) at their respective interlace points (IPa, IPb, IPc); disposing at least one functional thread (5) on the warp yarns (3) adjacent to the woven region (10), the functional thread (5) being disposed on the rear surface (B) of the base fabric (2) without crossing the central transverse plane (P) of the base fabric (2); connecting said at least one functional thread to said weft yarn (4b) by means of stitch points (SP) located between said central transverse plane (P) and said back surface (B), so that said stitch points (SP) are not visible from a front surface (F) of said base fabric (2) opposite said back surface (B).

13. 13. The method of claim 12, wherein inserting the weft yarns (4a, 4b, 4c) comprises inserting a base weft yarn (4a) and inserting an anchor weft yarn (4b) across the open shed (8) in each subsequent weaving cycle, and the functional thread (5) is connected to the anchor weft yarn (4b).

14. 14. The method according to claim 12 or 13, wherein the joining of the at least one functional thread (5) comprises forming at least one stitch point (SP) by the fixing thread (6) that engages the anchor weft thread (4b) and the functional thread (5).

15. Inserting said functional thread (5) into said open shed (8) across one of said first series (S1) and second series (S2) of said spinning threads (3); 15. The method according to any one of claims 12 to 14, further comprising the step of interweaving the functional thread (5) with the weft thread (4b) introduced across the open shed (8).

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