Improving water resistance of pigmented cosmetic compositions

Abstract

The present invention relates to improving the water resistance of cosmetic compositions containing pigments. This is achieved by using a combination of a mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes and an ester of fatty acids with dextrin.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001] [Technical field] The present invention relates to the field of pigmented cosmetics, in particular decorative cosmetics.

[0002] [Background of the invention] Cosmetics usually contain pigments, so that the application of the product gives the skin or hair a colored appearance. Such products are typically decorative cosmetics. Decorative cosmetics are usually used to enhance the appearance of the skin and / or hair and are applied as a thin layer to the skin or hair, especially in the form of lip gloss, lip ink, lipstick, makeup, foundation, mascara, eyeliner, eyeshadow, liquid blusher, eyebrow liner, concealer, highlighter or contouring shade.

[0003] Pigments affect the visual appearance of skin and / or hair. Since pigments are embedded in the product as fine particles, they tend to be removed quite easily from the cosmetic product after application, especially when the product is exposed to moisture and / or humidity, and therefore have poor water resistance. To maintain the same appearance for a long time, the product needs to be reapplied periodically, which is very inconvenient.

[0004] [Summary of the Invention] Therefore, the problem to be solved by the present invention is to improve the water resistance of cosmetics containing pigments.

[0005] Surprisingly, it has been found that the cosmetic product according to claim 1 significantly improves this water resistance. In particular, it has been found that the improvement in water resistance is achieved by adding to the pigment-containing cosmetic composition a combination of a specific mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes and an ester of a fatty acid with dextrin.

[0006] Furthermore, it has been found that the addition of a C15-C19 alkane mixture and an ester of a fatty acid with dextrin to a cosmetic composition containing at least one pigment exhibits a beneficial synergistic effect in improving water resistance.

[0007] Further aspects of the invention are the subject matter of further independent claims. Particularly preferred embodiments are the subject matter of the dependent claims. [Brief description of the drawings]

[0008] [Figure 1a] Reference Example 1 is shown after two cycles of water exposure. [Figure 1b] 1 is shown after two cycles of water exposure. [Figure 2a] Reference Example 7 is shown after two cycles of water exposure. [Figure 2b] 3 is shown after two cycles of water exposure.

[0009] [Detailed Description of the Invention] In a first aspect, the present invention provides a method for producing a composition comprising the steps of: - a mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes; - esters of fatty acids with dextrin; - Pigments and; A cosmetic composition comprising: The cosmetic composition relates to a cosmetic composition, wherein the amount of branched saturated C15-C19 alkanes in said mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes is more than 80% by weight, preferably more than 90% by weight, most preferably more than 92% by weight.

[0010] In this specification, "C x~y An "alkyl" group is an alkyl group containing x to y carbon atoms, i.e., for example, C 1~3 An alkyl group is an alkyl group containing 1 to 3 carbon atoms. An alkyl group can be straight or branched. For example, -CH(CH3)-CH2-CH3 is considered a C4 alkyl group.

[0011] In this specification, when the same symbol occurs for a symbol or group in several formulas, the definition of said group or symbol given in relation to one particular formula also applies to other formulas containing the same symbol.

[0012] The term "UV filter" in this specification refers to a substance that absorbs ultraviolet light (=UV light), i.e. electromagnetic radiation with a wavelength of 280-400 nm. A UV(A) filter is a UV filter that absorbs UV(A) light, i.e. electromagnetic radiation with a wavelength of 315-400 nm. A UV(B) filter is a UV filter that absorbs UV(B) light, i.e. electromagnetic radiation with a wavelength of 280-315 nm.

[0013] Liquid organic UV filters are liquid at ambient temperature (ie 25° C.).

[0014] Solid organic UV filters are solid at ambient temperature (ie 25° C.).

[0015] By "mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes" herein is meant that the mixture comprises different alkanes, each of which has only 15, 16, 17, 18 or 19 carbon atoms, and does not contain any alkanes below that number of carbon atoms. Thus, such a mixture does not, for example, contain dodecane or isododecane. The mixture comprises both branched and linear C15-C19 alkanes.

[0016] The term "pigment" as used herein is a colored material that is not or barely soluble in water at room temperature (i.e., <100 mg / 100 ml). This is to be understood as being in contrast to the term "dye," which is a colored material that is highly soluble in water. Pigments are fine particles. Pigments can be inorganic or organic.

[0017] [Mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes] The present cosmetic composition comprises a mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes.

[0018] Particularly suitable mixtures of C15 to C19 alkanes are in particular those disclosed in WO 2016 / 185046, WO 2017 / 046177, WO 2018 / 109353 A1 and WO 2018 / 109354 A1 and WO 2018 / 172228 A1.

[0019] Preferably, the mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes has a content of bio-derived carbon of 90% or more based on the total weight of the mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes. It is highly advantageous for chemicals to be derived from living organisms, as this increases the sustainability of such substances. Highly sustainable products or compositions are in high demand in the market.

[0020] The determination of the biobased content or biobased carbon content is carried out according to ASTM Standards D 6866-12, Method B (ASTM D 6866-06) and ASTM D 7026 (ASTM D 7 026-04). ASTM Standard D 6866 is concerned with “Determining the Biobased Content of Natural Range Materials Using Radiocarbon and Isotope Ratio Mass Spectrometry Analysis”, while ASTM Standard D 7 026 is concerned with “Sampling and Reporting of Results for Determination of Biobased Content of Materials via Carbon Isotope Analysis”. The first paragraph of the second listed standard refers to the first listed standard. The first standard refers to the determination of the sample’s 14 C / 12 The paper describes a test to measure the C ratio of the sample, which is compared with a standard sample derived from 100% renewable materials. 14 C / 12By comparing it with the C ratio, it gives the relative proportion of C from renewable materials in the sample. 14 It is based on the same concept as C dating.

[0021] More preferably, the composition does not contain any aromatic hydrocarbons or contains them in very small amounts (less than 100 ppm, in particular less than 30 ppm) relative to the total weight of the mixture of branched and linear saturated C15 to C19 alkanes.

[0022] The mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes is produced by catalytic hydrogenation of a hydrocarbon biomass feedstock, in particular as detailed in WO 2016 / 185046, in particular as disclosed as Example 3 of WO 2016 / 185046.

[0023] Preferably, the amount of linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes in said mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes is less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 8% by weight, most preferably greater than 5% by weight.

[0024] More preferably, the amount of C15 is less than 3% by weight, in particular less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.05% by weight, relative to the weight of said mixture of branched and linear saturated C15 to C19 alkanes.

[0025] Preferably, the mixture of branched and straight-chain saturated C15-C19 alkanes is a mixture of branched and straight-chain saturated C16-C19 alkanes.

[0026] More preferably, the amount of branched saturated C16-C18 alkanes is more than 90% by weight, preferably more than 95% by weight, based on the weight of said mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes.

[0027] More preferably, the amount of C15 alkanes is less than 5% by weight, in particular less than 2% by weight, based on the weight of said mixture of branched and linear saturated C15 to C19 alkanes.

[0028] More preferably, the amount of branched saturated C17-C18 alkanes is more than 85% by weight, preferably more than 92% by weight, based on the weight of said mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes.

[0029] More preferably, the amount of C17 alkane is between greater than 15 and 20% by weight based on the weight of said mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes.

[0030] More preferably, the amount of branched saturated C18 alkanes is more than 50% by weight, preferably more than 60% by weight, more preferably more than 70% by weight, based on the weight of said mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes.

[0031] More preferably, the amount of C18 alkanes is in particular 70-75% by weight, based on the weight of said mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes.

[0032] In other words, the mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes preferably consists primarily of C18 alkanes, and most preferably consists primarily of branched C18 alkanes.

[0033] Since the composition comprises a mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes, said composition does not comprise lower alkanes, i.e. in particular does not comprise C12 alkanes, and in particular does not comprise C12, C13 or C14 alkanes.

[0034] More preferably, the mixture of C15 to C19 alkanes has a viscosity at 20° C. of 3 to 15 mPa·s, particularly preferably 6 to 12 mPa·s.

[0035] The refractive index of the mixture of C15 to C19 alkanes at 20° C. is more preferably 1.40 to 1.48, particularly preferably 1.42 to 1.45, and most preferably 1.43 to 1.44.

[0036] More preferably, the mixture of C15 to C19 alkanes is the mixture of C15 to C19 alkanes commercialized as EMOGREEN (trademark) L19 from SEPPIC.

[0037] The amount of the mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes is in the range of 0.5-12.0% by weight, in particular in the range of 1.0-10.0% by weight, more preferably in the range of 1.5-8.0% by weight, preferably in the range of 2.0-6.0% by weight, based on the weight of the hair care product.

[0038] [Ester of fatty acid and dextrin] The composition further comprises an ester of a fatty acid and a dextrin.

[0039] Dextrin is an oligomer of D-glucose. Its structure can be represented by the simplified structure shown below. [ka]

[0040] Dextrins have various average degrees of glycopolymerization, and therefore various molecular weights.

[0041] The dextrin of the ester of a fatty acid and a dextrin in the present invention preferably has an average degree of polymerization of the sugar chain of 3-20, particularly 8-16.

[0042] The fatty acid of the ester of fatty acid and dextrin is preferably a C14 to C18 fatty acid, particularly a straight-chain C14 to C18 fatty acid, most preferably palmitic acid.

[0043] A particularly suitable ester of fatty acid and dextrin is dextrin palmitate, commercially available as Rheopearl® KL2 from Chiba Flour Milling.

[0044] Dextrin has several hydroxyl groups which can be esterified.

[0045] Preferably, the average number of esterified hydroxyl groups of said esters of fatty acids with dextrin is greater than 2.5 per glucose unit, preferably between 2.5 and 3.5, more preferably between 2.5 and 3.4, most preferably between 2.5 and 3.2.

[0046] In one embodiment, the average number of esterified hydroxyl groups of said esters of fatty acids with dextrin is greater than 2.5, preferably between 2.7 and 3.5, more preferably between 28 and 3.4, and most preferably between 2.8 and 3.2 per glucose unit.

[0047] In another embodiment, the average number of esterified hydroxyl groups of the esters of fatty acids with dextrin is greater than 3, preferably between 3.05 and 3.5, more preferably between 3.1 and 3.4, and most preferably between 3.1 and 3.2 per glucose unit.

[0048] That is, preferably, essentially all of the hydroxyl groups of the dextrin are esterified.

[0049] More preferably, the molecular weight M of the ester of fatty acid and dextrin is n is between 8,000 and 16,000 Da, preferably between 9,000 and 13,000 Da, and more preferably between 10,000 and 11,500 Da.

[0050] The molecular weight Mn is determined in particular in Daltons (Da) by SEC / GPC using polystyrene as standard.

[0051] Both fatty acids and dextrins are of biological origin. It is highly advantageous that chemicals are of biological origin, as such materials or their products are more sustainable. Sustainable products or compositions are in high demand in the market.

[0052] The amount of the fatty acid and dextrin ester is preferably in the range of 0.1 to 15 wt.%, particularly in the range of 0.3 to 8.0 wt.%, particularly in the range of 0.6 to 7.0 wt.%, more preferably in the range of 1.0 to 6.0 wt.%, particularly in the range of 1.5 to 5.0 wt.%, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0053] In the composition, the ratio of the weight of the ester of fatty acid and dextrin to the weight of the mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes is preferably less than 1, preferably in the range of 0.5-0.8, and most preferably in the range of 0.55-0.70.

[0054] That is, preferably, the weight of the C15 to C19 alkane contained in the present composition is greater than the weight of the ester of fatty acid and dextrin.

[0055] [Pigment] As used herein, the term "pigment" is a colored material that is not or hardly soluble in water or organic solvents.

[0056] Pigments can be defined by a Colour Index number (CI). The Colour Index International is a reference database maintained jointly by the Society of Dyers and Colourists and the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists.

[0057] The pigment may be an inorganic pigment or an organic pigment.

[0058] The inorganic color pigments can be, for example, chalk, ochre, umber, green earth, burnt siena or graphite.Furthermore, inorganic color pigments, for example black pigments such as black iron oxide, colored pigments such as ultramarine and red iron oxide, and fluorescent or phosphorescent pigments.Colored metal oxides, hydroxides and hydrated oxides, mixed phase pigments, sulfur-containing silicates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, chromates and / or molybdates are particularly suitable. Particularly preferred color pigments are black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and brown iron oxide (CI 77491), manganese violet (CI 77742), ultramarine (sodium aluminum sulfosilicate, CI 77007, Pigment Blue 29), hydrated chromium oxide (CI 77289), iron blue (ferric ferrocyanide, CI 77510) and / or carmine (cochineal).

[0059] Likewise, particularly preferred color pigments are colored pearlescent pigments. These are usually based on mica and mica bases, and may be coated with one or more metal oxides. Micas belong to the layered silicates. The most important representatives of these silicates are muscovite, phlogopite, paragonite, biotite, lepidolite and margarite. When preparing mica for pearlescent pigments, phlogopite or muscovite is preferably coated with metal oxides.

[0060] As an alternative to natural mica, synthetically coated mica can also be used as pearlescent pigments. Particularly preferred pearlescent pigments are based on natural or synthetic mica coated with one or more of the above-mentioned metal oxides. The color of each pigment can be achieved by varying the thickness of the metal oxide layer.

[0061] Also preferred pigments are pigments based on synthetically produced mica coated with metal oxides, in particular pigments based on synthetic fluorophlogopite (INCI: Synthetic Fluoro Phlogopite). Synthetic fluorophlogopite is, for example, coated with tin oxide, iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide. The metal oxide layer can also contain other pigments, such as ferric hexacyanidoferrat(II / III)ate or carmine red. Such mica pigments are commercially available, for example, from Eckart under the name SYNCRYSTAL.

[0062] The inorganic pigments are selected from colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, bronze pigments and / or colored pigments based on mica coated with at least one metal oxide and / or metal oxychloride.

[0063] In a further preferred embodiment, the mica-based color pigments are coated with one or more metal oxides from the group titanium dioxide (CI 77891), black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and / or brown iron oxide (CI 77491), manganese violet (CI 77742, CI 77499), ultramarine (sodium aluminum sulfosilicate, CI 77007, Pigment Blue 29), hydrated chromium oxide (CI 77289), chromium oxide (CI 77288) and / or iron blue (iron ferrocyanide, CI 77510).

[0064] Further suitable inorganic pigments are based on platelet-shaped borosilicate coated with metal oxide.This is for example coated with tin oxide, iron oxide, silicon dioxide and / or titanium dioxide.Such borosilicate-based pigments are commercially available under the name MIRAGE from ECKART or under the name Reflecks from BASF SE.

[0065] Examples of particularly suitable colored pigments are those commercially available, for example, under the trade names Rona®, Colorona®, Xirona®, Dichrona® and Timiron® from Merck, under the trade names Ariabel® and Unipure® from Sensient, under the trade name Prestige® from Eckart Cosmetic Colors, under the trade names Flamenco®, Cellini®, Cloisonnee®, Duocrome®, Gemtone®, Timica®®(R)(R)(R), MultiReflections, Chione from BASF SE, and under the trade name Sunshine® from Sunstar.

[0066] Inorganic pigments are in particular those having a colour index number between CI 77000 and CI 77999.

[0067] In one embodiment, the pigment is preferably an inorganic pigment.

[0068] The organic pigments are those which are insoluble in water and in organic solvents, in particular those selected from the group of nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, anthraquinone, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindido, dioxazine and / or triarylmethane compounds.

[0069] Particularly preferred organic pigments are carmine, phthalocyanine, Sorgho, blue pigments having Color Index Numbers CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160; yellow pigments having Color Index Numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000; green pigments having Color Index Numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260; orange pigments having Color Index Numbers CI 11725, CI 45370, CI 71105; and orange pigments having Color Index Numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490, CI 15525, CI 15800, CI Red pigments that are CI 15850, CI 15865, CI 15880, CI 17200, CI 26100, CI 58000, CI 73360, CI 73915 and / or CI 75470.

[0070] In a preferred embodiment, the pigment is selected from the group consisting of CI 15850, CI 17200, CI 45370, CI 73360, CI 75470, CI 77007, CI 77013, CI 77019, CI 77120, CI 77163, CI 77266, CI 77288, CI 77289, CI 77480, CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499, CI 77510, CI 77713, CI 77742, CI 77820, CI 77891, CI 77947 and char coal powder.

[0071] Particularly preferred pigments are those selected from the group consisting of CI 15850, CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499, CI 77510 and CI 77891 and charcoal.

[0072] Particularly suitable pigments are those commercially available as Colorona® SynCranberry from Merck KGaA, as Colorona® Dark Blue from Merck KGaA, as Charcopowder from Cosmos, as C91-4241 Intenza® Purple Reign from Sun Chemical Corp., as Ronastar® Red Allure from Merck KGaA, as C47-5001 SunPuro® Titanium Dioxide from Sun Chemical Corp., as C33-9001 SunPuro® Yellow Iron Oxide from Sun Chemical Corp., as C33-88001 SunPuro® Red Iron Oxide from Sun Chemical Corp. and as Unipure Black LC 989 ADT-C from Sensient Cosmetic Technologies.

[0073] Particularly preferred pigments for the lip ink composition are as follows:

[0074] [Table 1]

[0075] Particularly preferred pigments for lip gloss compositions are:

[0076] [Table 2]

[0077] Particularly preferred pigments for the foundation composition are as follows:

[0078] [Table 3]

[0079] Particularly preferred pigments for lipstick compositions are as follows:

[0080] [Table 4]

[0081] Particularly preferred pigments for the foundation composition are as follows:

[0082] [Table 5]

[0083] Particularly preferred pigments for the mascara composition are:

[0084] [Table 6]

[0085] Particularly preferred pigments for the eyeliner composition are as follows:

[0086] [Table 7]

[0087] Particularly preferred pigments for the eye shadow composition are as follows:

[0088] [Table 8]

[0089] Particularly preferred pigments for the eyebrow liner composition are as follows:

[0090] [Table 9]

[0091] Particularly preferred pigments for liquid blusher compositions are:

[0092] [Table 10]

[0093] Particularly preferred pigments for the concealer composition are as follows:

[0094] [Table 11]

[0095] Particularly preferred pigments for the contour / highlight composition are:

[0096] [Table 12]

[0097] The amount of pigment is preferably in the range of 0.001 to 15% by weight, in particular in the range of 0.01 to 12% by weight, preferably in the range of 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0098] The cosmetic composition can be used in any application in the cosmetics field where pigment-based products are used.

[0099] Particularly preferred cosmetic compositions are decorative cosmetic compositions, especially lip glosses, lip inks, lipsticks, make-up cosmetics, foundations, mascaras, eyeliners, eyeshadows, liquid blushers, eyebrow liners, concealers, highlighters or contouring shades.

[0100] The cosmetic composition, in particular the decorative cosmetic composition, preferably a lip gloss, lip ink, lipstick, make-up, foundation, mascara, eyeliner, eyeshadow, liquid blusher, eyebrow liner, concealer, highlighter or contouring shade, may comprise further ingredients known to be commonly used in said particular type of product.

[0101] The cosmetic composition may in particular comprise water, in the form of a suspension or dispersion in a solvent or fatty substance, or in the form of an emulsion or microemulsion (in particular of the oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) type, silicone-in-water (Si / W) or water-in-silicone (W / Si) type, PIT-emulsion, multiple emulsion (for example of the oil-in-water-in-oil (O / W / O) or water-in-oil-in-water (W / O / W) type), Pickering emulsion, hydrogel, alcoholic gel, lipogel, single- or multiphase solution or vesicle dispersion.

[0102] Preferred cosmetic compositions in all embodiments of the present invention are those which preferably contain water and are in emulsion form.

[0103] In particular, the emulsion comprises an oily phase and an aqueous phase, such as in particular an O / W, W / O, Si / W, W / Si, O / W / O, W / O / W multiple or Pickering emulsion.

[0104] The total amount of oily phase present in such emulsions is preferably at least 10% by weight, for example in the range of 10 to 60% by weight, preferably in the range of 15 to 50% by weight, most preferably in the range of 15 to 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0105] The amount of aqueous phase present in such emulsions is preferably at least 20% by weight, for example in the range of 40 to 90% by weight, preferably in the range of 50 to 85% by weight, most preferably in the range of 60 to 85% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0106] More preferably, the cosmetic composition is in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase in the presence of an O / W or Si / W emulsifier. The preparation of such O / W emulsions is well known to those skilled in the art.

[0107] The composition in the form of an O / W emulsion can be provided, for example, in any formulation form of an O / W emulsion, such as a serum, milk or cream, which are prepared according to the usual methods. If the cosmetic composition is a decorative product, the cosmetic is a somewhat pasty dispersion.

[0108] The cosmetic composition preferably comprises a UV filter. This further UV filter may be a solid or liquid. Preferably, the further UV filter is a solid UV filter.

[0109] Suitable liquid organic UV filters absorb light in the UV(B) and / or UV(A) range and are liquid at ambient temperature (i.e. 25° C.). Such liquid UV filters are known to the person skilled in the art and include in particular cinnamic acid esters such as octyl methoxycinnamate (PARSOL® MCX) and isoamyl methoxycinnamate (Neo Heliopan® E 1000), salicylic acid esters such as homosalate (3,3,5 trimethylcyclohexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate, PARSOL® HMS) and ethylhexyl salicylate (also known as ethylhexyl salicylate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate, PARSOL® EHS), acrylic acid esters such as octocrylene (2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, PARSOL® 340) and 2-cyano-3, 3-ethyl diphenylacrylate, esters of benzalmalonic acid, particularly dialkyl benzalmalonates, such as di(2-ethylhexyl) 4-methoxybenzalmalonate and polysilicone 15 (Parsol® SLX), dialkyl esters of naphthalic acid, such as diethylhexyl naphthalene dicarboxylate (Corapan® TQ), syringylidene malonate esters, such as diethylhexyl syringylidene malonate (Oxynex® ST liquid), and benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresol (Tinoguard® TL), as well as oxybenzone-3 and drometrizole trisiloxane.

[0110] Particularly advantageous liquid organic UV filters are octyl methoxycinnamate, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, diethylhexyl naphthalene dicarboxylate, diethylhexyl syringylidene malonate, benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresol, oxybenzone-3, drometrizole trisiloxane and mixtures thereof.

[0111] In a preferred embodiment, the liquid UV filter is a liquid UV(B) filter selected from the group consisting of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, oxybenzone-3 and drometrizole trisiloxane.

[0112] Suitable solid organic UV filters absorb light in the UV(B) and / or UV(A) region and are solid at ambient temperature (i.e. 25° C.). Particularly suitable solid UV filters are solid UV filters from the group consisting of bisethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylhexylbutamidotriazone, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor and 1,4-di(benzoxazol-2′-yl)benzene, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (bisoctrizole) and bemotrizinol (=bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (INCI)), in particular those commercially available as Parsol® Shield from DSM Nutritional Products Ltd.

[0113] Bisoctrizole is a broad spectrum ultraviolet radiation filter that absorbs not only UV(B) rays but also UV(A) rays and has excellent photostability. Its absorption maxima are at 308nm and 349nm. Meanwhile, it not only absorbs UV light, but also reflects and scatters it. Therefore, Bisoctrizole is a multifunctional UV absorber and an organic UV filter that is manufactured as fine (<200nm) organic particles. Whereas other organic UV filters need to be dissolved in either oil or aqueous phases, Bisoctrizole is applied as invisible particles since it is difficult to dissolve in either.

[0114] Preferred solid organic UV(A) filters are UV(A) filters selected from the group consisting of bisethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate and trisbiphenyl triazine.

[0115] Preferred solid organic UV(B) filters are UV(B) filters selected from the group consisting of ethylhexyl triazone (=Uvinul® T150), diethylhexylbutamido triazone (=Uvasorb® HEB) and 4-methylbenzylidene camphor (=Parsol® 5000).

[0116] The cosmetic composition preferably further comprises a moisturizer or skin humectant, in particular glycerol and / or panthenol and / or propanediol and / or Pentavitin, in particular those commercially available as D-Panthenol 75 L or Tilamar® PDO with Noovista or Pentavitin® from DSM Nutritional Products Ltd.

[0117] The cosmetic composition preferably further comprises a feel enhancer, especially silica, preferably available as Valvance® Touch 210 from DSM Nutritional Products Ltd.

[0118] The cosmetic composition may further comprise commonly used oily and fatty components which may be selected from mineral oils and mineral waxes; oils, such as capric and / or caprylic triglycerides or castor oil; oils or waxes and other natural or synthetic oils, in preferred embodiments esters of fatty acids with alcohols, such as isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerin, or esters of fatty alcohols with carbonic acid or fatty acids; benzoic acid alkyl esters; and / or silicone oils.

[0119] In particular, exemplary fatty substances that may be incorporated into the oily phase of the emulsions, microemulsions, oily gels, hydrodispersions or lipodispersions are advantageously chosen from esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear or branched alkyl carboxylic acids having from 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched alcohols having from 3 to 30 carbon atoms and esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated linear or branched alcohols having from 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such esters may advantageously be chosen from octyl palmitate, octyl cocoate, octyl isostearate, octyldodecyl myristate, cetearyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, stearyl heptanoate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate, tridecyl stearate, tridecyl trimellitate and synthetic, semi-synthetic or natural mixtures of such esters, for example jojoba oil.

[0120] Other fatty ingredients that are particularly suitable for hair conditioners include polar oils, such as lecithin and fatty acid triglycerides, i.e. triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear or branched carboxylic acids having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, which fatty acid triglycerides are preferably synthetic, semi-synthetic or natural oils, such as coconut oil glycerides, olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, hydrogenated castor oil, wheat oil, grape seed oil, macadamia seed oil, etc. ); non-polar oils, such as linear and / or branched hydrocarbons and waxes, e.g. mineral oil, petrolatum (petrolatum); paraffins, squalane and squalene, polyolefins, hydrogenated polyisobutene and isohexadecane, with polydecene being the preferred polyolefin; dialkyl ethers, e.g. dicaprylyl ether; linear or cyclic silicone oils, preferably selected from cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane; cetyl dimethicone, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly(methylphenylsiloxane), etc., and mixtures thereof.

[0121] Other fatty ingredients that can be advantageously incorporated into the cosmetic composition are isoeikosane; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate / caprate; caprylic / capric / diglycerylsuccinate; butylene glycol caprylat / caprate; alkyl lactate (C12,13); dialkyl tartrate (C12,13); triisostearin; dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate / caprate; propylene glycol monoisostearate; tricaprylin; dimethyl isosorbide. It is particularly advantageous to use mixtures of alkyl benzoate (C12-15) and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of alkyl benzoate (C12-15) and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of alkyl benzoate (C12-15) and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate.

[0122] The oily phase of the cosmetic composition may also include natural vegetable or animal waxes, such as beeswax, china wax, bumblebee wax and other insect waxes, as well as shea butter and cocoa butter.

[0123] Suitable silicone oils are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxane, diethylpolysiloxane, diphenylpolysiloxane, cyclic siloxane, poly(methylphenylsiloxane) and amino-, fatty acid-, alcohol-, polyether-, epoxy-, fluorine-, glycoside- and / or alkyl-modified silicone compounds that are liquid or solid at room temperature, and mixtures thereof. The number-average molecular weight of dimethicone and poly(methylphenylsiloxane) is preferably in the range of 100 to 150,000 g / mol. Preferred cyclic siloxanes are those containing 4-8 membered rings, which are commercially available, for example, as cyclomethicone.

[0124] In one advantageous embodiment, the cosmetic composition further comprises a phosphate ester emulsifier. Among the preferred phosphate ester emulsifiers, there may be mentioned C8-10 alkyl ethyl phosphate, C9-15 alkyl phosphate, ceteareth-2 phosphate, ceteareth-5 phosphate, ceteth-8 phosphate, ceteth-10 phosphate, cetyl phosphate, (C6-10) pareth-4 phosphate, (C12-15) pareth-2 phosphate, (C12-15) pareth-3 phosphate, DEA-ceteareth-2 phosphate, DEA-cetyl phosphate, DEA-oleth-3 phosphate, potassium cetyl phosphate, Deceth-4 phosphate, Deceth-6 phosphate, and Trilaureth-4 phosphate. A specific phosphate ester emulsifier is, for example, potassium cetyl phosphate, available as Amphisol® K from DSM Nutritional Products Ltd Kaiseraugst.

[0125] The cosmetic compositions may further comprise cosmetic carriers, excipients and diluents, as well as additives and active ingredients commonly used in the skin care industry that are suitable for use in cosmetic compositions, such as, but not limited to, those listed in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary & Handbook by the Personal Care Product Council (http: / / www.personalcarecouncil.org / ), available online at INFO BASE (http: / / online.personalcarecouncil.org / jsp / Home.jsp).

[0126] Such possible components of the cosmetic composition are in particular preservatives, antioxidants, fatty substances / oils, thickeners, emollients, light screening agents, moisturizers, fragrances, surfactant auxiliaries, fillers, sequestering agents, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof, acidifying or basifying agents, viscosity modifiers, etc., which improve performance and / or consumer acceptability, as well as natural hair nutrients such as botanical substances, fruit extracts, sugar derivatives and / or amino acids or any other components that are usually incorporated into cosmetic compositions. The necessary amounts of auxiliary substances and additives can be easily selected by the person skilled in the art based on the desired product and are illustrated, but not limited to, in the examples.

[0127] The cosmetic composition preferably has a pH in the range of 3 to 10, preferably in the range of 4 to 8, and most preferably in the range of 4 to 7.5. The pH can be easily adjusted, if necessary, using a suitable acid, such as citric acid, or a base, such as NaOH, according to standard methods in the art.

[0128] In one embodiment, the composition does not contain sulfate.As used herein, the term "free", for example "sulfate-free", is used to mean that each substance is present in an amount of less than 0.5% by weight, particularly less than 0.1% by weight, more particularly less than 0.05% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.Preferably, "free" means that each substance is completely absent from the composition.

[0129] The cosmetic composition was shown to have significantly higher water resistance than a corresponding composition that did not contain a mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes or an ester of fatty acids with dextrin.

[0130] It has been shown that the use of a mixture of C15-C19 alkanes in combination with an ester of fatty acids and dextrin provides significantly higher water resistance than the use of the C15-C19 alkanes and the ester of fatty acids and dextrin alone. This is all the more surprising since the use of the mixture of C15-C19 alkanes alone (i.e. without the ester of fatty acids and dextrin) may even reduce water resistance, especially when exposed to moisture and / or humidity for extended periods of time. It has therefore been found that the mixture of C15-C19 alkanes and the ester of fatty acids and dextrin show a beneficial synergistic effect on improving the water resistance of cosmetic compositions comprising at least one pigment.

[0131] Water resistance can be evaluated by measuring the change in color after exposure of an applied cosmetic composition to water.

[0132] One of the preferred methods of color variation is to represent colors in the so-called Lab color space. The Lab method that is mainly used today is the CIE-L color space proposed by the CIE in 1976. * a * b * In this expression, the parameter "L * " is the brightness, and the parameter "a * " and "b * " is the color-opponent dimension. The parameter L * The value of is in the range of 0 to 100, and the parameter a * and b * The value is in the range of -100 to 100.

[0133] Therefore, the color change is L * (=ΔL * ), a * (=Δa * ) and b * (=Δb * ) is determined by the change in value of

[0134] The theory behind it is somewhat complicated, but L *The lower the value, the darker the color appears. * The higher the value, the stronger the red color will appear. * As the value increases, the yellow component appears stronger.

[0135] Normally, when the color changes, the parameter L * , a * or b * Rather than only one parameter being varied individually, two or more of these parameters are varied simultaneously.

[0136] Therefore, ΔE according to the following formula * The color difference expressed as

number

[0137] On the other hand, particularly for black cosmetic compositions such as mascara compositions, opacity measurements have been shown to be a good indicator of water fastness.

[0138] Thus, in a further aspect, the present invention relates to the use of a mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes in combination with esters of fatty acids and dextrins to improve the water resistance of cosmetic compositions containing pigments, as already described in detail above.

[0139] This cosmetic composition is preferably a decorative cosmetic composition as already described above, in particular a lip gloss, a lip ink, a lipstick, a make-up, a foundation, a mascara, an eyeliner, an eyeshadow, a liquid blusher, an eyebrow liner, a concealer or a highlighting or contouring shade.

[0140] [Example] The following examples are provided to further illustrate the compositions and effects of the present invention. These examples are illustrative only and are not intended to limit the scope of the present invention in any way.

[0141] The cosmetic compositions outlined in Table 1 or Table 3 were prepared according to standard methods in the art.

[0142] [Table 13]

[0143] [Table 14]

[0144] [Table 15]

[0145] Water resistance (L * a * b * Measurement of Compositions outlined in Tables 1, 2 and 3 each have a mass of 1.3 mg / cm 2 The mixture was applied to four PMMA plates (Schoenberg, 5 μm) and the plates were dried at 40° C. for 30 min. Then, the L * a * b * The initial value of L was measured. Measurements were performed at five points per plate, and the L * a * b * The average values ​​were calculated. The values ​​are shown in Tables 3, 4 and 5 ("Initial"). The plate was then immersed in a flask filled with 4 L of water (double distilled) for 20 minutes, during which the water temperature was 30°C and the water was stirred with a paddle stirrer for 150 min. -1 (The plate was attached to the edge of the flask with a clothespin, with the surface coated with the composition facing the inside of the flask.) The plate was then dried at 40° C. for 30 minutes. * a * b * The values ​​were measured again. Five points were measured per plate, and the L values ​​were measured for all four plates. * a * b* The average value of was determined and is shown in Tables 3, 4, and 5 ("After 1 Cycle"). The plates were then treated with water as described above for an additional water exposure cycle. The values ​​for the second water exposure cycle are also shown in Tables 3, 4, and 5 ("After 2 Cycles").

[0146] L after each cycle * a * b * The difference between the initial value and the value is ΔL * , ΔLa * , ΔLb * Then, ΔE * asked for.

number

[0147] ΔE * The smaller the value, the less color change that occurred upon exposure to water and therefore the less pigment was removed from the film of the composition.

[0148] [Table 16]

[0149] [Table 17]

[0150] [Table 18]

[0151] In all cases, the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention exhibited significantly greater water resistance and smaller change in color (derived from the pigments) (ΔE) after one or more water exposure cycles.

[0152] For lip ink and foundation, the layer on the plate remained homogenous, as shown for example in Figure 1a for Reference Example 1 after 2 cycles and in Figure 1b for 1 after 2 cycles. For mascara compositions, only the mascara compositions according to the invention (i.e., 3) remained in this state, as shown in Figure 2b, whereas the comparative mascara composition (i.e., Reference Example 7) showed significant peeling, as shown in Figure 2a.

[0153] Therefore, the opacity of the film after two cycles of water exposure was measured.

[0154] Opacity was measured using a Minolta 3600d spectrophotometer. Equipment settings: Reflectance Specular reflection light component: SCI Measurement diameter: MAV (25.4mm) UV setting (100%)

[0155] For each test formulation (i.e., Reference Examples 7 and 3), four PMMA plates were taken out after the second water exposure cycle, and the samples were fixed in a sample holder to measure the reflectance of the PMMA plates. Four measurements were taken for each plate to maximize coverage of the surface. To obtain the contrast ratio, the lightness was divided into black (L * black ) and white (L * white ) background. That is, for each PMMA plate, four measurements were made on a black background and four measurements were made on a white background. The opacity values ​​shown in Table 7 were calculated based on the average of the respective lightness values ​​according to the following formula:

number

[0156] The higher the opacity, the darker the composition and therefore the less black pigment was removed upon exposure to water.

[0157] [Table 19]

[0158] This method also demonstrated that the compositions of the present invention are more opaque and therefore more water resistant.

Claims

1. a mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes; - esters of fatty acids and dextrin; - a pigment; A cosmetic composition comprising: A cosmetic composition, wherein the amount of branched saturated C15-C19 alkane in said mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes is greater than 80% by weight, preferably greater than 90% by weight, most preferably greater than 92% by weight.

2. 2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the amount of linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes in said mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes is less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 8% by weight, most preferably more than 5% by weight.

3. 3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the amount of branched saturated C18 alkanes is more than 50% by weight, preferably more than 60% by weight, and even more preferably more than 70% by weight, relative to the weight of said mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes.

4. 4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the fatty acid of the ester of fatty acid and dextrin is a C14-C18 fatty acid, in particular a linear C14-C18 fatty acid, most preferably palmitic acid.

5. 5. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the dextrin of the ester of fatty acid with dextrin has an average degree of glycopolymerization of 3 to 20, in particular 8 to 16.

6. 6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the average number of esterified hydroxyl groups of said esters of fatty acids with dextrin is greater than 2.5, preferably between 2.5 and 3.5, more preferably between 2.5 and 3.4, most preferably between 2.5 and 3.2 per glucose unit.

7. The molecular weight M of the ester of fatty acid and dextrin ｎ The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the molecular weight of the polysaccharide is between 8000 and 16000 Da, preferably between 9000 and 13000 Da, more preferably between 10000 and 11500 Da.

8. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the pigment is an inorganic pigment, in particular an inorganic pigment having a colour index between CI 77000 and CI 77999.

9. The pigments include CI 15850, CI 17200, CI 45370, CI 73360, CI 75470, CI 77007, CI 77013, CI 77019, CI 77120, CI 77163, CI 77266, CI 77288, CI 77289, CI 77480, CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499, CI 77510, CI 77713, CI 77742, CI 77820, CI 77891, CI 77947 and charcoal, especially CI 15850, CI 77491, CI 9. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it is selected from the group consisting of CI 77492, CI 77499, CI 77510 and CI 77891 and charcoal.

10. 10. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the amount of pigment is in the range of 0.001 to 15% by weight, in particular in the range of 0.01 to 12% by weight, preferably in the range of 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.

11. 11. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amount of said mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes is in the range of 0.5 to 12.0% by weight, in particular in the range of 1.0 to 10.0% by weight, more preferably in the range of 1.5 to 8.0% by weight, preferably in the range of 2.0 to 6.0% by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.

12. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the cosmetic composition is a decorative cosmetic composition, in particular a lip gloss, a lip ink, a lipstick, a make-up, a foundation, a mascara, an eyeliner, an eyeshadow, a liquid blusher, an eyebrow liner, a concealer, a highlighter or a contouring shade.

13. Use of a mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes in combination with an ester of a fatty acid and dextrin to improve the water resistance of a pigmented cosmetic composition.

14. 14. Use according to claim 13, characterized in that the cosmetic composition comprising the pigment is a decorative cosmetic composition, in particular a lip gloss, a lip ink, a lipstick, a make-up cosmetic, a foundation, a mascara, an eyeliner, an eyeshadow, a liquid blusher, an eyebrow liner, a concealer, a highlighter or a contouring shade.

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