Coloring composition for care and / or make-up
By using the combination of zinc oxide particles and light-sensitive coloring substances in skin care products and makeup products, the problem of color instability under light is solved, and the color stability and long-term effect are improved.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- JP2024559227
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2022-04-05
- Filing Date
- 2023-04-05
- Publication Date
- 2025-04-16
AI Technical Summary
The light-sensitive coloring substances used in existing colored skin care products and makeup products can easily lead to color instability under light, resulting in problems such as tone changes and brightness reduction.
The use of zinc oxide particles in anhydrous components is used to combine with light-sensitive coloring substances to form a stable color effect. The amount of zinc oxide particles can be used to reach three times that of titanium oxide to achieve a similar covering effect.
Effectively protect and maintain the color stability of light-sensitive coloring substances, avoid tone changes in color and brightness caused by light, and provide long-term color effects.
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Abstract
Description
[Technical field]
[0001] The present disclosure relates to the cosmetics field, in particular to cosmetic compositions for color care and / or make-up for keratinous materials, in particular the skin, eyelids, eyelashes or lips. [Background technology]
[0002] Tinted anhydrous skin or lip care and / or makeup products are increasingly in demand with consumers due to their coverage and staying power properties, and also to the addition of color for skin and / or lip makeup effects.
[0003] Coverage is generally provided by white pigments and / or fillers, particularly titanium dioxide, which is used for its strong opacifying and covering power. Color is provided by organic and / or inorganic coloring materials, some of which are known to be light sensitive. This light sensitivity may cause the color or tone of the surface to become unstable when the composition is exposed to light. For example, the color or tone of the surface of the composition exposed to light may decrease in brightness or saturation, and it is also said that the surface of the composition may become discolored by light. Therefore, it is necessary to protect and maintain the light sensitive coloring materials to avoid changes in tone or color.
[0004] Surprisingly, the applicant has demonstrated that the use of zinc oxide particles, especially in anhydrous compositions containing photoresponsive coloring materials, protects the coloring materials, thereby promoting the color and tone stability of the composition.Thus, zinc oxide particles are particularly advantageous as a substitute for titanium dioxide particles in the formulation of care and / or makeup compositions that provide coverage and protect photoresponsive coloring materials.By using zinc oxide particles, even photoresponsive pigments can obtain stable shades that titanium dioxide cannot. Summary of the Invention
[0005] Thus, a first aspect of the disclosure relates to a cosmetic composition for care and / or makeup, preferably an anhydrous composition, preferably applied to keratinous materials, in particular the skin, eyelids, eyelashes or lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, (i) zinc oxide particles, and (ii) one or more photoresponsive coloring materials selected from the group consisting of dyes and organic pigments, composite pigments containing one or more of the dyes or organic pigments, pearl pigments containing one or more of the dyes or organic pigments, and mixtures thereof; Includes.
[0006] According to certain preferred aspects, the compositions of the present disclosure are anhydrous compositions.
[0007] The present disclosure also relates to a cosmetic method for the care and / or make-up of keratinous materials, in particular the skin, eyelids, eyelashes or lips, preferably the lips, which comprises applying to said keratinous materials a composition according to the present disclosure. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS
[0008] The present disclosure therefore relates to a preferably anhydrous cosmetic composition for care and / or makeup, in particular for the skin, eyelids, eyelashes or lips, which comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium, (i) zinc oxide particles, and (ii) One or more photoresponsive coloring materials selected from the group consisting of dyes and organic pigments, composite pigments containing one or more of the dyes or organic pigments, pearl pigments containing one or more of the dyes or organic pigments, and mixtures thereof. Includes.
[0009] "Anhydrous composition" means that water is preferably not intentionally added to the composition, but may be present in trace amounts in various compounds used in the composition.In particular, the composition of the present disclosure contains less than 4% by weight, preferably less than 3% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water based on the total weight of the composition, or even completely free of water.According to an embodiment, the composition of the present disclosure does not contain water.
[0010] In one aspect, the compositions of the present disclosure are fluid or liquid, i.e., they flow under their own weight at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. In another embodiment, the composition of the present disclosure is in the form of a powder, in particular a loose powder. In yet another embodiment, the composition is a solid composition. Preferably, the solid composition comprises one or more waxes.
[0011] By "solid composition" is meant a composition that, unlike a liquid or flowable composition or a free powder, does not flow under its own weight at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, according to the present disclosure. The compositions of the present disclosure may be in the form of a compact powder, a composition packaged in a stick or a cup, among others.
[0012] "Compact powder" refers to a solid composition that is based on a powder, as distinct from loose powder. Compact powders are generally prepared by mixing all the ingredients in the particulate phase and adding a liquid phase to this mixture while stirring. The mixture is then poured into a cup, bucket or mould and compressed. Compression is usually carried out at a pressure of 5-25 MPa, which reduces the volume of the compressed composition.
[0013] powder phase The powder phase of the compositions of the present disclosure includes fillers and pigments.
[0014] The compositions of the present disclosure include, inter alia, zinc oxide particles.
[0015] Zinc Oxide Particles The zinc oxide particles exist as a white powder and are insoluble in water. The zinc oxide particles may be of non-uniform morphology, commonly hexagonal and cubic morphology. The zinc oxide particles used in this disclosure are pigmentary zinc oxide particles, as opposed to the zinc oxide nanoparticles used in mineral-based sunscreens.
[0016] The zinc oxide particles used in the present disclosure may generally have an average particle size in the range of 0.1 to 50 μm (micrometers), particularly 0.1 to 10 μm, and further particularly 0.1 to 1 μm.
[0017] Particle size can be measured by laser diffraction distribution method using a Malvern Mastersizer type instrument, in particular by measuring the value D50, which represents the maximum size that occupies 50% of the particle volume. In particular, commercially available products include those sold under the trade name "RONACARE ZINC OXIDE" by Merck, those sold under the trade name "A120-ZnO-11S3" by Kobo, and those sold under the trade name "ZINC OXIDE COSMETICS" by Keyser & Mackay / Grillo.
[0018] According to certain preferred aspects, the zinc oxide particles comprise more than 80% by weight ZnO, in particular more than 95%, 96%, 97%, 98% or 99% by weight ZnO, or even 100% by weight ZnO.
[0019] The zinc oxide particles used in the present disclosure may or may not be treated with a lipophilic treating agent to enhance dispersibility in the fatty phase.
[0020] According to certain embodiments of the present disclosure, the zinc oxide particles are untreated and have the INCI name "Zinc Oxide."
[0021] According to another particular embodiment, the zinc oxide particles are treated with an oleophilic treating agent. Additionally, the zinc oxide particles may be mixed with a wetting agent to facilitate dispersion in the composition, thereby improving the uniformity of the composition.
[0022] According to a particular embodiment, the content of zinc oxide particles in the composition of the present disclosure can generally be in the range of 0.1% to 50% by mass of zinc oxide, particularly 1% to 30% by mass of zinc oxide, and preferably 2% to 20% by mass of zinc oxide, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0023] In the case of compressed powder compositions (e.g. eye shadow, foundation powder), the total content of zinc oxide particles can generally be in the range of 1% to 50% by weight (as zinc oxide), preferably 5% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0024] In the case of an anhydrous solid composition for skin that is different from a powder (e.g., a complexion corrector), the total content of zinc oxide particles can generally be in the range of 0.5% to 30% by mass (as zinc oxide), preferably 1% to 20% by mass, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0025] In the case of anhydrous solid compositions for the lips (e.g., lipsticks), the total content of zinc oxide particles can generally be in the range of 0.1% to 30% by mass (as zinc oxide), preferably 0.5% to 20% by mass, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0026] According to certain preferred embodiments of the present disclosure, the composition comprises less than 3% by weight, in particular less than 1% by weight, of titanium dioxide relative to the total weight of the composition, or no titanium dioxide at all. According to a further preferred embodiment, the composition of the present disclosure does not contain any titanium dioxide.
[0027] The compositions of the present disclosure further contain one or more photoresponsive coloring materials.
[0028] Photoresponsive coloring materials In this disclosure, "coloring material" means a compound capable of producing a colored optical effect when incorporated in a sufficient amount in a suitable cosmetic medium. Coloring materials are traditionally selected from pigments (insoluble in neither oil nor water phase) and dyes (soluble in oil or water phase).
[0029] The coloring materials may be mineral, synthetic, or naturally occurring materials.
[0030] According to a particular embodiment, the coloring material may be of mineral or synthetic origin. The coloring material may or may not have been treated with a lipophilic treating agent.
[0031] The photoresponsive coloring material usable in the composition of the present disclosure can be selected from the group consisting of dyes and organic pigments and / or their salts, composite pigments containing one or more of the dyes or organic pigments, pearl pigments containing one or more of the dyes or organic pigments, and mixtures thereof.
[0032] "Photoresponsive coloring material" means a coloring material in which the color (e.g., the color of the coloring material) or shade (e.g., the hue of a mixture of coloring materials) of the blended coloring material is not stable after exposure to light. The stability of color or shade can be observed by a professional colorist with the naked eye or by measuring the color difference ΔE between two samples (a sample to be irradiated and a control sample). 00 The color stability can be calculated by measuring the color with a spectrophotometer. A color or shade that is not light stable can be a color or shade that loses lightness and / or chroma. The surface of the composition can also discolor in light.
[0033] To select coloring materials that are photoresponsive and can be used in the compositions of the present disclosure, the following test (also called the "Sun Test") can be employed, which aims to identify coloring materials whose color or shade when formulated is affected by exposure to light. The coloring material can be, for example, 16 hours of light exposure.
[0034] The coloring materials are generally pre-dispersed (in the case of pigments) or dissolved (in the case of dyes) in oil and the mixture (also called "pigment paste") is homogeneously dispersed in an oily or fatty base, including, for example, hydrocarbon oils or waxes, as exemplified below. The composition obtained by the above process is stored in two bowls, one for control and the other for irradiation, which is irradiated for, for example, 16 hours. Irradiation is performed using a Sun Test XLS type device with an output of 500 W / m 2 , using a store light reduced IR filter, for 16 hours. The color tone of the irradiated and control compositions (not irradiated) is evaluated by a professional colorist who observes and describes the color or tone of each composition, or the color difference ΔE according to the protocol described below. 00 Measure. A change in color tone (e.g., a decrease in brightness and / or chroma, fading) under irradiated conditions compared to a control condition (e.g., a difference in ΔE 00 is greater than 1, in particular greater than 3, more particularly greater than 8, or ΔE 00 is greater than 10) indicates that the coloring material in the formulation is a photoresponsive coloring material and can be used in combination with zinc oxide particles in the present disclosure to prevent such discoloration.
[0035] Parameter ΔE 00 is evaluated according to the following protocol: The colorimetric parameters of the compositions are measured using a spectrophotometer, such as a d / 8° spectrophotometer (COLORi7800 X Rite).
[0036] The instrument is used in specular mode with an aperture window of 17 mm, excluding UV as a light source. Spectroscopic measurements are performed on each sample before and after irradiation.
[0037] The colorimetric values are calculated in the CIELAB 76 space, where L* represents color density, a* represents the green / red color axis, and b* represents the blue / yellow color axis, with a D65 illuminant and an observer angle of 10°. The color difference between the irradiated and control compositions is calculated to evaluate the color change. The color differences are lightness difference DL*ab, chroma difference DC*ab, hue difference DH*ab (ISO / CIE 11664-4: 2019) and total color difference ΔE determined in accordance with CIE (ISO / CIE 11664-6:2014). 00 Examples include:
[0038] The following oily and fatty bases can be used in carrying out the above tests:
[0039] [Table 1]
[0040] The mixture is used as a dispersion base (after dissolution) for the preparation of a bichromatic pigment containing equal contents of TiO2 (opacifier) and the coloring material to be tested. The mixture of "base + TiO2 pigment paste + coloring material pigment paste" is adjusted to be close to the saturation of the shade of the product currently on the market. The texture is adjusted by adding polyglycerol ester. The pigment paste is a dispersion of polyglycerol ester adjusted to contain the desired concentration of coloring material and is prepared each time. For example, mix 60% of the above base, 5% of TiO2 pigment paste (3% TiO2 pre-dispersed in polyglycerol ester), 10% of the pigment paste to be tested red 28 lake (3% red 28 lake pre-dispersed in polyglycerol ester) and 25% of polyglycerol ester (composition 100%). The mixture is heated to 95°C and homogenized with a rotor-stator to ensure good color uniformity. The result is poured into molds at a temperature of about 90°C. The result is left at room temperature for a few minutes and then stored in the freezer for 5 minutes. Finally, the product is removed from the mold or left in the mold to rest for at least 24 hours before performing the Suntest.
[0041] The Suntest is run according to the above protocol and evaluated for color change after irradiation in comparison with a control sample. If a color change is observed in the composition, it indicates that the coloring material being tested is photoresponsive.
[0042] The present inventors have tested particularly the dyes and organic pigments Red 28 Lake, Red 6 Salt, Blue 1 Lake and a mica-based nacres coated with Red 6, and confirmed that they exhibit a change in color tone according to the above protocol. It has been confirmed that Red 28 Lake exhibits the greatest change and has the highest photoresponsiveness.
[0043] Therefore, among the "photoresponsive dyes and organic pigments (e.g., lacquers)" that can be used in the present disclosure, particularly, the following compounds are included: Blue 1, Blue 1 Lake (CI 42090), Yellow 5, Yellow 5 Lake (CI 19140), Yellow 6, Yellow 6 Lake (CI 15985), Yellow 10, Yellow 10 Lake (CI 47005), Yellow 11, Yellow 11 Lake (Yellow 11 Lake), Red 4, Red 4 Lake (CI 14700), Red 6, Red 6 Lake (Red 6 Red 7, Red 7 Lake (CI 15850), Red 21, Red 21 Lake (CI 4 5380), Red 22, Red 22 Lake (CI 45380), Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 Lake (CI 45410), Red 30, Red 30 Lake (CI 73360), Red 33, Red 33 Lake (CI 15880), Red 34 34), Red 34 Lake (CI 15880), Red 40, Red 40 Lake (CI 16035), Orange 4, Carmine, and / or their salts, especially the sodium or barium salts, such as Red 6 Na Salt Lake, Red 6 Ba Salt Lake, and mixtures thereof;In particular Blue 1, Blue 1 Lake (CI 42090), Red 6, Red 5 Lake (15850), Red 7, Red 7 Lake (CI 15850), Red 21 Lake, Red 21 Lake (CI 45380), Red 22 Lake, Red 22 Lake (CI 45380), Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 Lake (CI 45410), and / or salts thereof, and mixtures thereof; preferably Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), and / or salts thereof; Red 28, Red 28 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 Lake (CI 45410), and / or salts thereof, and mixtures thereof;
[0044] "Lacquers" are organic pigments comprising one or more organic dyes deposited on an inert support (also called "base"). In particular, lacquers comprising a base selected from an alumina (Al) base, a barium sulfate (Ba) base or a calcium rosinate (Ca) base may be used. For example, Red 28 Al Lake is a lacquer pigment comprising an alumina base on which the red 28 dye is deposited.
[0045] According to a more specific embodiment, the composition of the present disclosure comprises one or more dyes or organic pigments (e.g., lacquer pigments) selected from Blue 1, Blue 1 Lake (CI 42090), Red 6, Red 6 Lake (15850), Red 7, Red 7 Lake (CI 15850), Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 Lake (CI 45410), and / or their sodium or barium salts, and mixtures thereof; preferably Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 Lake (CI 45410), and / or their sodium or barium salts, and mixtures thereof. more preferably, the pigment comprises one or more dyes or organic pigments (e.g., lacquer pigments) selected from Red 28, Red 28 Lake (CI 45410), and / or their sodium or barium salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0046] "Composite pigment" is defined in the present disclosure as a pigment comprising a substrate and a mineral and / or organic pigment(s) embedded and / or encapsulated in the substrate. The light-responsive composite pigments that can be used in the present disclosure thus comprise a substrate and one or more of the light-responsive dyes or organic pigments described above.
[0047] Generally, composite pigments, obtained by encapsulating and / or coating inorganic and / or organic pigments in or on a substrate or matrix of different nature, endow the pigments with new optical properties, in particular transparency, while providing a blurring effect.
[0048] The substrate may be a matrix or core comprising one or more inorganic materials and / or one or more organic materials.
[0049] That is, the light-responsive composite pigments of the present disclosure include inorganic and / or organic substrates, particularly silica, borosilicate, or alumina, in which one or more of the above-mentioned dyes or organic pigments are embedded or encapsulated, and mixtures thereof.
[0050] The inorganic material that can be the substrate of the composite pigment can be selected from the group consisting of mica, synthetic mica, talc, sericite, boron nitride, glass or borosilicate flakes, calcium carbonate, barium sulfate, titanium oxide, hydroxyapatite, silica, silicates, zinc oxide, magnesium sulfate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium trisilicate, aluminum oxide, aluminum silicate, alumina, calcium silicate, calcium phosphate, magnesium oxide, bismuth oxychloride, kaolin, mineral clays, synthetic clays, and mixtures thereof.
[0051] The organic material of the composite pigment substrate may be selected from the group consisting of polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA), polyamide, silicone, polyurethane, polyethylene, polypropylene, polystyrene, polysaccharides, cellulose, polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinyl resins, waxes, and mixtures thereof.
[0052] In a preferred embodiment of the present disclosure, at least one of the dyes or organic pigments in the composite pigment is selected from the above-mentioned light-responsive coloring materials and organic pigments and mixtures thereof, and the substrate is selected from silica, more specifically silica spheres, borosilicates, alumina, or mixtures thereof.
[0053] According to a particular embodiment, the composite pigment is surface treated, in particular with an oleophilic treatment agent, the resulting coating can be continuous or discontinuous.
[0054] "Pearlescent pigments", also called "nacres" or "reflective particles", refer to pigments with a multi-layer structure (different from the above composite pigments which do not have a multi-layer structure). Such pigments refer to pigments with a multi-layer structure, including a substrate (e.g., mica, bismuth oxychloride, etc.) covered with one or more of the above dyes or organic pigments, and covered with at least one of the above dyes or organic pigments, and depending on their size, structure, physical and chemical properties of the layers, and their surface state, they can reflect incident light and create a highlighting effect on the skin when the above composition containing the pigment is applied.
[0055] The pearlescent pigments that can be used in the present disclosure include, in particular, colored pearlescent pigments based on mica and one or more of the dyes or organic pigments mentioned above, in particular, pearlescent pigments based on mica and Blue 1, Blue 1 Lake (CI 42090), Yellow 5, Yellow 5 Lake (CI 19140), Red 6, Red 6 Lake (15850), Red 7, Red 7 Lake (CI 15850), Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 Lake (CI 45410), or carmine, or mixtures thereof. These pearl pigments may be commercially available products, such as Intenza®, Colorona®, Sunshine®, Syncrystal®, and Reflecks®.
[0056] That is, according to certain embodiments, the compositions of the present disclosure comprise a compound selected from the group consisting of: (i) Blue 1, Blue 1 Lake (CI 42090), Yellow 5, Yellow 5 Lake (CI 19140), Yellow 6, Yellow 6 Lake (CI 15985), Yellow 10, Yellow 10 Lake (CI 47005), Yellow 11, Yellow 11 Lake (Yellow 11 Lake), Red 4, Red 4 Lake (CI 14700), Red 6, Red 6 Lake (Red 6 Lake) (15850), Red 7, Red 7 Lake (Red 7 Lake) (CI 15850), Red 21 21), Red 21 Lake (CI 4 5380), Red 22 (Red 22), Red 22 Lake (CI 45380), Red 27 (Red 27), Red 27 Lake (Red 27 Lake) (CI 45410), Red 28 (Red 28), Red 28 Lake (Red 28 Lake) (CI 45410), Red 30 (Red 30), Red 30 Lake (Red 30 Lake) (CI 73360), Red 33 (Red 33), Red 33 Lake (Red 33 Lake) (CI 15880), Red 34 (Red 34), Red 34 Lake (Red 34 Lake) (CI 15880), Red 40 (Red 40), Red 40 Lake (Red 40 Lake) (CI dyes and organic pigments selected from Red 16035, Orange 4, Carmine, and / or their salts, in particular the sodium or barium salts, such as Red 6 Na Salt Lake, Red 6 Ba Salt Lake, and mixtures thereof;Dyes and organic pigments, in particular selected from Blue 1, Blue 1 Lake (CI 42090), Red 6, Red 6 Lake (Red 5 Lake) (15850), Red 7, Red 7 Lake (CI 15850), Red 21 Lake, Red 21 Lake (CI 45380), Red 22 Lake, Red 22 Lake (CI 45380), Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 Lake (CI 45410), and / or salts thereof, and mixtures thereof; preferably Red 27 dyes and organic pigments selected from Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 Lake (CI 45410), and / or their salts, and mixtures thereof; (ii) composite pigments, including inorganic and / or organic substrates, in particular silica, borosilicate or alumina, in which one or more of the above-mentioned dyes or organic pigments are embedded or encapsulated, and mixtures thereof; (iii) pearlescent pigments comprising a substrate, in particular mica, coated with one or more of the abovementioned dyes or organic pigments, and mixtures thereof; in particular pearlescent pigments comprising synthetic mica coated with a dye or organic pigment selected from Blue 1, Blue 1 Lake (CI 42090), Yellow 5, Yellow 5 Lake (CI 19140), Red 6, Red 6 Lake (15850), Red 7, Red 7 Lake (CI 15850), Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 Lake (CI 45410), Carmine, and mixtures thereof; (iv) and mixtures thereof; One or more photoresponsive coloring materials selected from More preferably, the pigment comprises one or more light-responsive coloring materials selected from a dye or organic pigment selected from Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28, and Red 28 Lake (CI 45410); or a composite pigment comprising Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28, or Red 28 Lake (CI 45410); a pearl pigment comprising Red 27, Red 27 Lake, Red 28, or Red 28 Lake (CI 45410); and mixtures thereof.
[0057] In particular, the total content of the photoresponsive coloring material in the composition of the present disclosure can be in the range of 0.001% by mass to 50% by mass, particularly 0.01% by mass to 40% by mass, and particularly 0.1% by mass to 20% by mass, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0058] In the case of compressed powder compositions (e.g., eye shadow, foundation powder), the total content of the photoresponsive coloring material can generally be in the range of 0.001% to 50% by mass, preferably 0.01% to 40% by mass, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0059] In the case of an anhydrous solid composition for skin that is different from a powder (e.g., a complexion corrector), the total content of the photoresponsive coloring material can generally be in the range of 0.001% by mass to 30% by mass, preferably 0.01% by mass to 20% by mass, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0060] In the case of an anhydrous solid composition for the lips (e.g., lipstick), the total content of the photoresponsive coloring material can generally be in the range of 0.001% by mass to 30% by mass, preferably 0.01% by mass to 20% by mass, based on the total weight of the composition. According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the present disclosure further comprises another additional component selected from other coloring materials, fillers, lipophilic gelling agents, pasty fatty substances, and mixtures thereof.
[0061] Other coloring materials The compositions of the present disclosure may also contain one or more other coloring materials different from the photoresponsive powdered coloring material defined above.
[0062] Such other coloring materials may be chosen from organic or inorganic coloring materials, soluble or insoluble in the fatty phase of the composition, composite pigments, pearlescent pigments, and mixtures thereof.
[0063] According to a particular embodiment, the other coloring materials are chosen from inorganic pigments, in particular different from zinc oxide; organic pigments; composite pigments; pearlescent pigments; dyes, and mixtures thereof.
[0064] Among the inorganic pigments different from zinc oxide, mention may be made in particular of black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides; manganese violet; ultramarine blue, chromium oxide and ferric blue.
[0065] Preferably, the compositions of the present disclosure include one or more iron oxides.
[0066] "Other dyes or organic pigments" may include Green 3, Green 5, Orange 10, Violet 2, Red 17, Green 6, Sudan red, Sudan Brown, Orange 5, Quinoline Yellow, and / or lacquer pigments thereof, and / or salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0067] Examples of the "other composite pigments" include those formed from a base material and an inorganic pigment such as iron oxide, or the above-mentioned organic pigments that are not photoresponsive.
[0068] "Other pearlescent pigments" may in particular include mica with iron oxide and with or without TiO2, mica supplemented with the above-mentioned organic pigments, and colored pearlescent pigments such as pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. Such pearlescent pigments may be commercially available and may include Reflecks®, Ronastar®, Timiron®, Syncrystal®. The pearlescent pigments may be based on silica, alumina, alumina hydroxide, synthetic mica, tin oxide, borosilicates (e.g. sodium calcium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate, cellulose or cellulose derivatives).
[0069] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the present disclosure may include one or more other coloring materials selected from the group consisting of iron oxides, other organic pigments, other pearl pigments, and mixtures thereof.
[0070] In particular, the total content of the coloring materials (including photoresponsive coloring materials and non-photoresponsive coloring materials) in the composition can be in the range of 0.001% by mass to 60% by mass, preferably 0.01% by mass to 50% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% by mass to 40% by mass, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0071] In the case of compressed powder compositions (e.g., eye shadow, foundation powder), the total content of coloring materials can generally be in the range of 0.001% to 50% by mass, preferably 0.01% to 40% by mass, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0072] For anhydrous solid compositions for skin other than those in powder form (e.g., control colors (complexion correctors)), the total content of coloring materials can generally be in the range of 0.001% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.01% to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0073] In the case of an anhydrous solid composition for lips (e.g., lipstick), the total content of the coloring material can generally be in the range of 0.001% by mass to 30% by mass, preferably 0.01% by mass to 20% by mass, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0074] The compositions of the present disclosure may further include one or more other fillers (different from the zinc oxide particles).
[0075] Fillers Fillers are used in particular to modify the rheology or texture of the composition and / or to provide a mattifying and / or blurring effect.
[0076] In the present disclosure, "filler" means colorless or white, mineral or organic, natural or synthetic, particles of any shape, in the form of plates, spheres or ovals, dispersed in an insoluble state in the composition.Other fillers different from zinc oxide particles can be selected from natural or synthetic mica; talc; bismuth oxychloride; silica; boron nitride; kaolin; calcium carbonate; magnesium carbonate and magnesium bicarbonate; zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; powders of synthetic polymers such as polyethylene, polyester, polyamide (e.g. nylon); powders of polyacrylic acid or polymethacrylic acid, silicone powders, cellulose powders; glass and ceramic beads; powders of organic materials of natural origin, such as corn, wheat, rice, cotton, whether crosslinked or not; hydroxyapatite and mixtures thereof.
[0077] According to certain aspects, the compositions of the present disclosure are talc-free.
[0078] The fillers may or may not be surface treated, in particular with lipophilic or hydrophobic treatments, such as those mentioned above for the zinc oxide particles.
[0079] According to a particular embodiment, the filler is not surface treated. According to another particular embodiment, the filler is surface treated with a lipophilic agent as defined above.
[0080] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the present disclosure comprises at least boron nitride particles as a filler. In anhydrous solid compositions containing zinc oxide particles, the inclusion of boron nitride particles is advantageous for obtaining optimal hardness.
[0081] Boron Nitride Particles The boron nitride particles usable in the present disclosure are generally flaky or plate-like. By "flaky particles" or "plate-like particles" is meant that the thickness of the particle is smaller than the width of the particle, and in particular that the ratio of the width to the thickness of the particle is in the range of 2-100.
[0082] Boron nitride particles are commonly registered under the INCI name: Boron Nitride.
[0083] The boron nitride particles usable in the present disclosure may generally have an average particle size measured according to the above-mentioned laser diffraction distribution method in the range of 0.5 to 20 μm, particularly 1 to 10 μm.
[0084] In particular, commercially available boron nitride particles may be used, such as "BORON NITRIDE CC" and "SOFTOUCH CC" from SAFIC ALCAN / Momentive, "BORON NITRIDE SHP" from IWASE / Mizushima, "RONAFLAIR" from Merck, and "CARESS BN" from Kobo.
[0085] The boron nitride particles may or may not be surface-treated with an oleophilic treatment agent. According to a particular embodiment, the boron nitride particles are not surface treated.
[0086] According to a particular embodiment, the boron nitride particles are not in the form of composite particles.
[0087] According to a particular embodiment, the content of boron nitride particles in the composition of the present disclosure can in particular be in the range of 0.1% by weight to 50% by weight, in particular 2% by weight to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0088] According to certain embodiments, the compositions of the present disclosure may further comprise one or more other fillers different from the zinc oxide particles and the boron nitride particles, examples of which are described above. The total content of fillers in the composition of the present disclosure may in particular be in the range of 0.01% to 50% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0089] In the case of compressed powder compositions (eg eye shadow, foundation powder), the total content of fillers may generally range from 1 to 50% by weight, in particular from 5 to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0090] In the case of anhydrous solid compositions for the skin other than powders (for example complexion correctors), the total content of fillers can generally range from 0.5 to 30% by weight, in particular from 1 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0091] In the case of anhydrous solid compositions for the lips (for example lipsticks), the total content of fillers may generally range from 0.01 to 30% by weight and in particular from 1 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0092] Oil Phase The compositions of the present disclosure may comprise one or more oils and, optionally, a component chosen from lipophilic gelling agents, waxes, pasty fatty substances and mixtures thereof.
[0093] In this disclosure, "oil" means a fatty substance that is insoluble in water and liquid at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure.
[0094] The oils that can be used in the present disclosure include, in particular, hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the present disclosure may include one or more hydrocarbon oils.
[0095] Hydrocarbon oils include, in particular, hydrocarbon oils of vegetable or mineral origin, linear or branched C8-C 19 Alkane, synthetic C 10 -C 40 Ether, Synthetic C 10 -C 40 C esters, which may be branched and / or unsaturated 12 -C 26 Aliphatic alcohols, which may be branched and / or unsaturated 12 -C22 Included are higher fatty acids, mono- and / or polyesters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
[0096] Examples of oils of vegetable origin include soybean oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, avocado oil, olive oil, castor oil, jojoba seed oil, peanut oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, pumpkin oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, wheat germ oil, calophyllum oil, sesame oil, macadamia oil, coconut oil, corn germ oil, candlenut oil, thistle oil, candellila oil, safflower oil, shea butter, and mixtures thereof.
[0097] C 10 -C 26 Examples of fatty alcohols include linear or branched, saturated C 10 -C 26 , more preferably C 16 -C 20 Examples of such aliphatic monoalcohols include 2-octyldodecanol.
[0098] Examples of linear or branched chain hydrocarbons include paraffin oil and its derivatives, petrolatum, mineral oil (a mixture of hydrocarbon oils derived from petroleum), polydecenes such as polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polyisoprene, hydrogenated polydecene, or linear, branched and / or cyclic alkanes.
[0099] Examples of branched and / or unsaturated fatty acids include myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, isostearic acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0100] Examples of esters include monoesters or polyesters of the abovementioned fatty acids, linear or branched, whose fatty chain contains 6 to 30 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof, and fatty alcohols whose fatty chain contains 3 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular monoesters and polyesters of hydroxy acids and fatty alcohols, esters of benzoic acid and fatty alcohols, polyesters of polyols, dipentaerythritol C5-C9 esters, or polyglycerin polyesters, trimethylolpropane polyesters, propylene glycol polyesters, etc. Liquor polyester, hydrogenated castor oil polyester, more specifically isononyl isononanoate, stearyl octanoate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate, diisostearyl malate, 2-octyldodecyl lactate, glyceryl triisostearate (glycerin triisostearate), diglyceryl triisostearate, diisostearyl maleate, octyldodecyl stearyl stearate, cetearyl isononanoate, diisopropyl adipate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, glyceryl tricaprocaprylate, stearyl isocetyl stearate, alkyl benzoate, (di)pentaerythritol, pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, dipentaerythritol pentaisononanoate, bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, trimethylolpropane triethylhexanoate, trimethylolpropane triisostearatetrimethylolpropane, propylene glycol dibenzoate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, mixtures of triglycerides obtained by esterification of glycerol with capric acid and caprylic acid, non-oxyalkylenated polyglycerol esters such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate or polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, isostearyl lactate, isostearyl lactate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate; glyceryl stearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; jojoba esters, i.e. polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate; polyricinoleates, such as polyglyceryl-5 polyricinoleates, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleates, polyglyceryl-10 polyricinoleates (INCI name), and mixtures thereof.
[0101] The content of the oil may be in the range of 0.2 to 90% by mass, preferably 0.5 to 80% by mass, and more preferably 1 to 70% by mass, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0102] In the case of compressed powder compositions (e.g., eye shadow, foundation powder), the total oil content can generally be in the range of 0.2% to 50% by weight, in particular 2% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0103] For anhydrous solid compositions for the skin other than powders (for example complexion correctors), the total oil content may generally range from 10 to 90% by weight, in particular from 20 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0104] In the case of anhydrous solid compositions for the lips (for example lipsticks), the total oil content may generally range from 10 to 90% by weight, in particular from 20 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0105] According to certain aspects, the compositions of the present disclosure may further comprise one or more lipophilic gelling agents.
[0106] Lipophilic gelling agents In the present disclosure, "lipophilic gelling agent" means a compound capable of gelling the fatty phase of the composition.
[0107] The lipophilic gelling agent may preferably be selected from natural or synthetic clays; modified natural micas such as fluorosilicates of aluminium, magnesium and potassium; dextrins and fatty acid esters such as dextrin palmitate or dextrin myristate; C8 C30 fatty acids with mono- or polyglyceryl, for example glyceryl tri(hydroxystearate) (INCI name: trihydroxystearin), etc.
[0108] The lipophilic gelling agent is preferably a natural or synthetic clay selected from bentonites, especially hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolites, biotites, attapulgites, vermiculites and zeolites. It is preferably selected from hectorites. More preferably, hectorites modified with quaternary alkyl ammonium chlorides can be used, the quaternary ammonium compounds having a C of 1 or more, preferably 2 or more. 14 -C 20 It is preferably substituted by an alkyl radical, for example the ammonium of said quaternary alkyl ammonium chloride may be selected from distearyldimonium hectorite, which contains two methyl groups and two stearyl groups.
[0109] Preferred lipophilic gelling agents include in particular modified hectorite dispersed in oil, such as BENTONE GEL (INCI name: Octyldodecanol (and) Disteardimonium Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate) from Elementis. Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the composition of the present disclosure may further comprise a lipophilic gelling agent, in particular a mineral gelling agent such as bentones, preferably a quaternary hectorite.
[0110] When the composition contains one or more gelling agents, the total content of lipophilic gelling agents may in particular be in the range of 0.5 to 5% by weight, in particular 2 to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0111] According to certain preferred aspects, the compositions of the present disclosure may contain one or more waxes.
[0112] Wax In the present disclosure, "wax" refers to a compound that is solid at 25°C, can undergo a reversible solid / liquid state change, and has a melting point of 30°C or higher, preferably 45°C or higher.
[0113] Specifically, microcrystalline wax, paraffin wax, polyethylene wax, ozokerite, mixtures of polyethylene and alcohol containing 20 to 50 carbon atoms, silicone waxes, especially alkyl dimethicones, C 20 -C 40 Examples of suitable waxes include alkyl stearates, beeswax, waxes of vegetable origin, copolymers of maleic anhydride and α-olefins, waxes obtained by metallocene catalysts, and mixtures thereof.
[0114] According to certain preferred embodiments, the total content of waxes in the composition of the present disclosure can be in the range of 0.1% by mass to 30% by mass, preferably 0.5% by mass to 25% by mass, more preferably 1% by mass to 25% by mass, preferably 4% by mass to 20% by mass, and particularly preferably 5% by mass to 15% by mass, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0115] In the case of compressed powder compositions (eg, eye shadow, foundation powder), the total wax content can generally be in the range of 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0116] In the case of an anhydrous solid composition for skin that is different from a powder (e.g., a complexion corrector), the total content of waxes can generally be in the range of 0.5% to 30% by mass, more preferably 5% to 15% by mass, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0117] In the case of an anhydrous solid composition for lips (e.g., lipstick), the total content of waxes can generally be in the range of 0.5% to 30% by mass, more preferably 5% to 15% by mass, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0118] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the present disclosure may further comprise one or more pasty fatty substances.
[0119] Pasty fatty substance In the present disclosure, "pasty fatty substance" means an amorphous fatty compound comprising, at a temperature of 25°C, liquid and solid components.
[0120] In the present disclosure, the pasty fatty substance may be any of the following: lanolin and its derivatives, polymeric silicone compounds, alkyl (meth)acrylate copolymers preferably having a C8-C30 alkyl group, homo- and co-oligomers of vinyl esters having a C8-C30 alkyl group, homo- and co-oligomers of vinyl ethers having a C8-C30 alkyl group, one or more C2-050 diols, fat-soluble polyethers obtained by polyetherification of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide copolymers with long chain C6-C30 alkylene oxides, diglycerol esters, arachidyl propionate, phytosterol esters ... esters), non-crosslinked polyesters obtained by polycondensation of dibasic acids or linear or branched C4-C50 polycarboxylic acids with diols or polyols, esters obtained by esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid (e.g. mono- or triisostearates of hydrogenated castor oil), mixtures of soybean sterols and oxyethylenated (5OE) oxypropylenated (5OP) pentaerythritol, triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives, shea butter, cocoa butter, mango oil or butter, and mixtures thereof.
[0121] In particular, triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives, esters of polyols and fatty acid dimers or any of the esters thereof, esters of hydrogenated castor oil, oligomeric esters of glycerin, in particular diglycerin esters, vegetable butters and mixtures thereof may be mentioned.
[0122] The content of the pasty fatty substance can be in the range of 0.05 to 30% by mass relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0123] In the case of compressed powder compositions (for example eye shadows, foundation powders), the total content of pasty fatty substances may generally range from 0 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0124] In the case of anhydrous solid compositions for the skin other than powders (e.g. complexion correctors), the total content of pasty fatty substances can generally range from 0 to 30% by weight, in particular from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In the case of anhydrous solid compositions for the lips (e.g. lipsticks), the total content of pasty fatty substances can generally range from 0 to 30% by weight, in particular from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0125] According to certain embodiments, the composition of the present disclosure is a solid composition comprising the following components: Zinc oxide particles One or more photoresponsive coloring materials selected from the group consisting of dyes and organic pigments (e.g., lacquers), composite pigments containing one or more of the above dyes or organic pigments, pearl pigments containing one or more of the above dyes or organic pigments, and mixtures thereof. Boron nitride particles one or more waxes, the total content of which is preferably in the range from 1 to 25% by weight, in particular from 4 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; Hydrocarbon oil Optionally, a lipophilic gelling agent Optionally, one or more other coloring materials that are not photoresponsive, selected from the group consisting of iron oxides, organic pigments, pearlescent pigments, and mixtures thereof. and containing less than 3% by weight, in particular less than 1% by weight, of titanium dioxide relative to the total weight of the composition, or no titanium dioxide at all.
[0126] According to certain preferred embodiments, the composition of the present disclosure is a solid composition comprising the following components: Zinc oxide particles (in particular, the content thereof is 0.1 to 50% by mass, in particular 1 to 30% by mass, further preferably 2 to 20% by mass, based on the total weight of the composition) One or more photoresponsive coloring materials selected from the group consisting of dyes or organic pigments (e.g., lacquer pigments), composite pigments containing one or more of the above dyes and organic pigments, pearl pigments containing one or more of the above dyes and organic pigments, and mixtures thereof (particularly, the content thereof is 0.001% by mass to 30% by mass, more preferably 0.01% by mass to 20% by mass, based on the total weight of the composition). Boron nitride particles (in particular the content of which is from 0.1 to 50% by weight, in particular 2 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition) one or more waxes (in particular, the content of which is in the range of 1 to 25% by weight, in particular 4 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition); Hydrocarbon oil One or more lipophilic gelling agents Optionally, one or more other coloring materials that are not photoresponsive, selected from the group consisting of iron oxides, organic pigments, pearlescent pigments, and mixtures thereof. wherein the solid composition does not contain titanium dioxide.
[0127] According to another particular embodiment, the composition of the present disclosure is a fluid or liquid composition comprising the following components: Zinc oxide particles One or more photoresponsive coloring materials selected from the group consisting of dyes and organic pigments (e.g., lacquers), composite pigments containing one or more of the above dyes and organic pigments, pearl pigments containing one or more of the above dyes and organic pigments, and mixtures thereof. Hydrocarbon oil optionally a lipophilic gelling agent, Optionally, one or more other coloring materials that are not photoresponsive, selected from the group consisting of iron oxides, organic pigments, pearlescent pigments, and mixtures thereof. and contains less than 3% by weight, in particular less than 1% by weight, of titanium dioxide relative to the total weight of the composition, or no titanium dioxide at all.
[0128] According to certain preferred aspects, the composition of the present disclosure is a fluid or liquid composition comprising the following components: Zinc oxide particles (particularly, the content thereof is 0.1 to 50% by mass, particularly 1 to 30% by mass, and further particularly 2 to 20% by mass, based on the total weight of the composition) One or more photoresponsive coloring materials selected from the group consisting of dyes and organic pigments (e.g., lacquers), composite pigments containing one or more of the above dyes and organic pigments, pearl pigments containing one or more of the above dyes and organic pigments, and mixtures thereof (particularly, the content thereof is 0.01 to 50% by mass, particularly 0.01 to 40% by mass, and further particularly 0.01 to 20% by mass, based on the total weight of the composition). Hydrocarbon oil One or more lipophilic gelling agents One or more other non-photoresponsive coloring materials selected from the group consisting of iron oxides, organic pigments, pearl pigments, and mixtures thereof. Contains no titanium dioxide.
[0129] According to another particular embodiment, the composition of the present disclosure is a powder, in particular a loose powder, comprising the following components: Zinc oxide particles, One or more photoresponsive coloring materials selected from the group consisting of dyes and organic pigments (e.g., lacquers), composite pigments containing one or more of the above dyes and organic pigments, pearl pigments containing one or more of the above dyes and organic pigments, and mixtures thereof. Hydrocarbon oil Optionally, a lipophilic gelling agent Optionally, one or more other coloring materials that are not photoresponsive, selected from the group consisting of iron oxides, organic pigments, pearlescent pigments, and mixtures thereof. and containing less than 3% by weight, in particular less than 1% by weight, of titanium dioxide relative to the total weight of the composition, or no titanium dioxide at all.
[0130] According to certain preferred embodiments, the composition of the present disclosure is a powder, in particular a loose powder, comprising the following components: Zinc oxide particles (particularly, the content thereof is 0.1 to 50% by mass, particularly 1 to 30% by mass, and further particularly 2 to 20% by mass, based on the total weight of the composition) One or more photoresponsive coloring materials selected from the group consisting of dyes and organic pigments (e.g. lacquers), composite pigments containing one or more of the above dyes and organic pigments, pearl pigments containing one or more of the above dyes and organic pigments, and mixtures thereof (particularly, the content thereof is 0.001% by mass to 50% by mass, particularly 0.01% by mass to 40% by mass, or 0.1% by mass to 20% by mass, based on the total weight of the composition). Hydrocarbon oils, one or more lipophilic gelling agents, Optionally, one or more other coloring materials that are not photoresponsive, selected from the group consisting of iron oxides, organic pigments, pearlescent pigments, and mixtures thereof. Contains no titanium dioxide.
[0131] In particular in these different particularly preferred embodiments, the light responsive coloring material is selected from the group consisting of: (i) Blue 1, Blue 1 Lake (CI 42090), Yellow 5, Yellow 5 Lake (CI 19140), Yellow 6, Yellow 6 Lake (CI 15985), Yellow 10, Yellow 10 Lake (CI 47005), Yellow 11, Yellow 11 Lake (Yellow 11 Lake), Red 4, Red 4 Lake (CI 14700), Red 6, Red 6 Lake (Red 6 Lake) (15850), Red 7, Red 7 Lake (Red 7 Lake) (CI 15850), Red 21 21), Red 21 Lake (CI 4 5380), Red 22 (Red 22), Red 22 Lake (CI 45380), Red 27 (Red 27), Red 27 Lake (Red 27 Lake) (CI 45410), Red 28 (Red 28), Red 28 Lake (Red 28 Lake) (CI 45410), Red 30 (Red 30), Red 30 Lake (Red 30 Lake) (CI 73360), Red 33 (Red 33), Red 33 Lake (Red 33 Lake) (CI 15880), Red 34 (Red 34), Red 34 Lake (Red 34 Lake) (CI 15880), Red 40 (Red 40), Red 40 Lake (Red 40 Lake) (CI dyes and organic pigments selected from Red 16035, Orange 4, Carmine, and / or their salts, in particular the sodium or barium salts, such as Red 6 Na Salt Lake, Red 6 Ba Salt Lake, and mixtures thereof;Dyes and organic pigments, in particular selected from Blue 1, Blue 1 Lake (CI 42090), Red 6, Red 6 Lake (Red 5 Lake) (15850), Red 7, Red 7 Lake (CI 15850), Red 21 Lake, Red 21 Lake (CI 45380), Red 22 Lake, Red 22 Lake (CI 45380), Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 Lake (CI 45410), and / or salts thereof, and mixtures thereof; preferably Red 27 dyes and organic pigments selected from Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 Lake (CI 45410), and / or their salts, and mixtures thereof; (ii) composite pigments, including inorganic and / or organic substrates, in particular silica, borosilicate or alumina, in which one or more of the above-mentioned dyes or organic pigments are embedded or encapsulated, and mixtures thereof; (iii) pearlescent pigments comprising a substrate, in particular mica, coated with one or more of the abovementioned dyes or organic pigments, and mixtures thereof; in particular pearlescent pigments comprising synthetic mica coated with a dye or organic pigment selected from Blue 1, Blue 1 Lake (CI 42090), Yellow 5, Yellow 5 Lake (CI 19140), Red 6, Red 6 Lake (15850), Red 7, Red 7 Lake (CI 15850), Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 Lake (CI 45410), Carmine, and mixtures thereof; (iv) and mixtures thereof; is selected from More preferably, it is selected from a dye or organic pigment selected from Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28 and Red 28 Lake (CI 45410); or a composite pigment comprising Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28, or Red 28 Lake (CI 45410); a pearl pigment comprising Red 27, Red 27 Lake, Red 28, or Red 28 Lake (CI 45410); and mixtures thereof.
[0132] GALENIC The compositions of the present disclosure are care and / or makeup compositions for keratinous materials, in particular for the skin, eyelids, eyelashes or lips, preferably for the eyelids, eyelashes or lips.
[0133] The compositions of the present disclosure may be in the form of a loose powder, a fluid foundation, a lip gloss, a composition packaged in a compact powder, a stick, a pot or a cup, in particular a lip gloss, a lipstick, a liner pencil, an eyelash pencil, an eye shadow, a complexion corrector or a concealer.
[0134] According to a first embodiment, the composition of the present disclosure is in liquid or fluid form. The composition of the present disclosure is in particular a fluid foundation or a lip gloss.
[0135] According to a first embodiment, the composition of the present disclosure is in the form of a loose powder. According to certain embodiments, the compositions of the present disclosure are in the form of a compact powder.
[0136] According to another particular embodiment, the composition of the present disclosure is in the form of a stick, or a composition packaged in a pot or cup.
[0137] The compositions of the present disclosure are in particular compact powders for the eyelids (shadow or eyeshadow) or for the complexion.
[0138] According to another embodiment, the composition of the present disclosure is a lip stick or a composition in a pot or cup.
[0139] According to another particular embodiment, the composition of the present disclosure is a pencil liner.
[0140] According to another particular embodiment, the composition of the present disclosure is a composition in an eyelash stick or pencil or in a pot or cup to be applied with a finger or a brush (e.g., an eyelash pencil).
[0141] According to another embodiment, the composition of the present disclosure is a composition for the eyelids (eg eyeshadow) in a stick or pot or cup that can be applied with a finger, a sponge or a brush.
[0142] According to another embodiment, the composition of the present disclosure is a composition in a stick or pot or cup (e.g. a complexion corrector or concealer) for the skin of the face, in particular in specific areas, that can be applied with a finger, a sponge or a brush.
[0143] That is, the composition of the present disclosure is in particular in the form of a lip gloss or lipstick, a liner pencil, an eyelash pencil, a blush or eye shadow, or a complexion corrector or concealer, preferably a lip gloss or lipstick.
[0144] How to apply makeup The present disclosure also relates to a cosmetic method for the care and / or make-up of keratinous materials, comprising applying a composition of the present disclosure, in particular to the skin, the eyelids, the eyelashes or the lips, preferably to the lips.
[0145] The composition of the present disclosure is as defined above.
[0146] According to a particular embodiment, the composition to be applied to the skin is in the form of a compact powder. Preferably, the composition to be applied to the skin or lips is in the form of a lip gloss, a lipstick, a liner pencil, an eyelash pencil, a blush or an eye shadow, or a complexion corrector or concealer, preferably a lip gloss or a lipstick.
[0147] The present invention will be described below with reference to non-limiting examples. Percentages are expressed as mass % of components relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise specified. EXAMPLES
[0148] Example 1: Color protection effect of zinc oxide particles Preliminary testing was conducted to determine the coverage of zinc oxide particles that could be formulated as an alternative to titanium dioxide. From these results, it was confirmed that in order to obtain the same covering power, the anhydrous solid composition according to the present disclosure requires about 3 to 4 times the amount of zinc oxide particles as the amount of titanium dioxide to obtain the same covering effect. Different dye coloring materials and organic pigments (eg lacquers) and pearlescent pigments in lipstick bases were tested as follows:
[0149] [Table 2]
[0150] The mixture is used as a dispersion base (after dissolution) for the preparation of a bichromatic pigment containing equal contents of TiO2 (opacifier) and the coloring material to be tested. The mixture of "base + TiO2 pigment paste + coloring material pigment paste" is adjusted to approximate the saturation of the shades of the products currently on the market. The texture is adjusted by the addition of polyglycerol ester. The pigment paste is a dispersion of coloring material in polyglycerol ester, with a known concentration.
[0151] To elaborate on the first row of the table, 60% of the above base is mixed with 5% of TiO2 pigment paste (3% TiO2 pre-dispersed in polyglycerol ester), 10% of the tested pigment paste red 28 lake (3% red 28 lake pre-dispersed in polyglycerol ester) and 25% of polyglycerol ester (composition 100%). The mixture is heated to 95°C and homogenized with a rotor-stator to ensure good color uniformity. The result is poured into molds at a temperature of about 90°C. The result is left at room temperature for a few minutes and then stored in the freezer for 5 minutes. Finally, the product is removed from the mold or left in the mold to rest for at least 24 hours before the suntest.
[0152] Suntest color rating: The lightfastness of the formulations was evaluated according to the "Sun Test" protocol, in which the formulations are exposed to 16 hours of radiation.
[0153] Each formulation is poured into two lipstick containers: a control and a 16 hour exposure.
[0154] The irradiation was performed using a Sun Test XLS type device with a store light reduced IR filter at 500W / m 2 The test will be carried out for 16 hours at an output of 1.
[0155] The color of each composition is compared to a control composition (not irradiated) and the colorist observes and records the color change of each composition.
[0156] The results are shown in the table below.
[0157] [Table 3]
[0158] ZnO*4: The amount of ZnO is 4 times the amount of TiO2 in order to obtain the same coverage and "same color tone" between each formulation. These results demonstrate that zinc oxide (ZnO) particles are effective in preventing discoloration of photoresponsive coloring materials.
[0159] Example 2: Prescription The following examples are illustrative, non-limiting examples of the present invention, made according to methods well known to cosmetic formulators.
[0160] 2.1 Waterless liquid lip gloss
[0161] [Table 4]
[0162] 2.2 Compact powder
[0163] [Table 5]
[0164] The compact powder has good color stability to light. When applied to the facial skin, the compact powder exhibits good coverage and color properties.
[0165] 2.3 Waterless lipstick
[0166] [Table 6]
[0167] The lipstick has good color stability to light. When applied to the lips, the lipstick exhibits good coverage and color properties.
[0168] 2.4 Waterless eyeshadow
[0169] [Table 7]
[0170] The eyeshadow is stored in a cup and has good color stability to light.When applied to the eyelids, the eyeshadow provides good coverage and a pearlescent effect.
Claims
1. A preferably anhydrous cosmetic composition for care and / or make-up for keratinous materials, in particular the skin, eyelids, eyelashes or lips, comprising In a physiologically acceptable medium (i) zinc oxide, and (ii) one or more photoresponsive coloring materials selected from the group consisting of dyes and organic pigments, composite pigments containing one or more selected from the dyes and organic pigments, pearl pigments containing one or more selected from the dyes and organic pigments, and mixtures thereof; Including, A cosmetic composition, comprising a titanium dioxide content of less than 3% by mass, based on the total weight of the composition.
2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the total content of the photoresponsive coloring materials is from 0.001 to 50% by weight, in particular from 0.01 to 40% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
3. The photoresponsive coloring material is: (i) Blue 1, Blue 1 Lake (CI 42090), Yellow 5, Yellow 5 Lake (CI 19140), Yellow 6, Yellow 6 Lake (CI 15985), Yellow 10, Yellow 10 Lake (CI 47005), Yellow 11, Yellow 11 Lake (Yellow 11 Lake), Red 4, Red 4 Lake (CI 14700), Red 6, Red 6 Lake (Red 6 Lake) (15850), Red 7, Red 7 Lake (Red 7 Lake) (CI 15850), Red 21 21), Red 21 Lake (CI 4 5380), Red 22, Red 22 Lake (CI 45380), Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 Lake (CI 45410), Red 30, Red 30 Lake (CI 73360), Red 33, Red 33 Lake (CI 15880), Red 34, Red 34 Lake (CI 15880), Red 40, Red 40 Lake (CI 16035), Orange 4, Carmine, and / or their salts, especially the sodium or barium salts, such as Red 6 Na Salt Lake, Red 6 Ba Salt Lake, and mixtures thereof;In particular Blue 1, Blue 1 Lake (CI 42090), Red 6, Red 5 Lake (15850), Red 7, Red 7 Lake (CI 15850), Red 21 Lake, Red 21 Lake (CI 45380), Red 22 Lake, Red 22 Lake (CI 45380), Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 Lake (CI 45410), and / or salts thereof, and mixtures thereof; preferably Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), and / or salts thereof; Red 28, Red 28 Lake (CI 45410), and / or their salts, and mixtures thereof; (ii) composite pigments comprising inorganic and / or organic substrates, in particular silica, borosilicate or alumina, in which one or more of the dyes or organic pigments are embedded or encapsulated, and mixtures thereof; (iii) pearlescent pigments comprising a substrate, in particular mica, coated with one or more of the above dyes or organic pigments, and mixtures thereof; in particular pearlescent pigments comprising synthetic mica coated with a dye or organic pigment selected from Blue 1, Blue 1 Lake (CI 42090), Yellow 5, Yellow 5 Lake (CI 19140), Red 6, Red 6 Lake (15850), Red 7, Red 7 Lake (CI 15850), Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 Lake (CI 45410), Carmine, and mixtures thereof; (iv) and mixtures thereof; is selected from the group consisting of 3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the dye or organic pigment is selected from a dye or organic pigment selected from Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28 and Red 28 Lake (CI 45410); or a composite pigment comprising Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28, or Red 28 Lake (CI 45410); a pearl pigment comprising Red 27, Red 27 Lake, Red 28, or Red 28 Lake (CI 45410); and mixtures thereof.
4. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the content of the zinc oxide particles is 1 to 30% by mass in terms of zinc oxide, preferably 2 to 20% by mass in terms of zinc oxide, relative to the total weight of the composition.
5. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, which contains less than 1% by weight of titanium dioxide relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular which is free of titanium dioxide.
6. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, which is in the form of a powder.
7. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, which is a fluid or liquid composition.
8. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, which is a solid composition.
9. 9. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, further comprising further ingredients selected from other colouring materials, other fillers, lipophilic gelling agents, waxes, pasty fatty substances and mixtures thereof.
10. 10. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, in the form of a loose powder, a liquid foundation, a lip gloss, or in the form of a compact powder or a stick, or a composition stored in a pot or cup, in particular in the form of a lip gloss, a lipstick, a liner pencil, an eyelash pencil, an eye shadow, or a complexion corrector or a concealer, preferably a lip gloss or a lipstick.
11. A cosmetic method for the care and / or make-up of keratinous materials, in particular the skin, eyelids, eyelashes, lips (preferably the lips), etc., which comprises applying a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10 to said keratinous materials.