Solid care and / or make-up composition

Abstract

The present disclosure relates to a solid cosmetic composition, preferably anhydrous, for the care and / or make-up of keratinous materials, in particular the skin, eyelids, eyebrows or lips, which comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (i) Zinc oxide particles (ii) boron nitride particles, and (iii) one or more waxes; The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising:

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present disclosure relates to the field of cosmetics, and in particular to solid cosmetic compositions for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials such as the skin, eyelids, eyebrows, lips, etc. [Background technology]

[0002] Waterless solid skin care, lip care and / or makeup products are increasingly in demand among consumers due to their coverage and long-lasting properties. Summary of the Invention

[0003] Coverage is generally provided by white pigments and / or fillers, and titanium dioxide, in particular, is used for its strong opacifying and covering power. However, there is an increasing demand for alternatives to titanium dioxide. The present inventors have confirmed that zinc oxide particles, which can be used as a substitute for titanium dioxide in anhydrous solid compositions, tend to destroy the structure of the solid composition, affecting not only the feasibility of production but also the application and sensory properties. Therefore, to solve this problem, it is necessary to find a solution that maintains the structural properties of the stick and the application and sensory properties of the stick without affecting the effectiveness of the coverage provided by the zinc oxide particles. In particular, there is a need to meet the mechanical requirements of feasibility of production, retention of the stick during application, and prevention of breakage, as well as transfer properties that ensure comfortable application, sufficient adhesion, and good application to the lips (e.g., adhesion and uniformity of color).

[0004] Surprisingly, Applicant has found that the use of boron nitride particles solves this problem and results in an anhydrous solid composition having good coating properties, good stick mechanical properties, good application properties and good sensory properties.

[0005] That is, a first aspect of the present disclosure is a solid, preferably anhydrous, cosmetic composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular the skin, eyelids, eyebrows or lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (i) zinc oxide particles; (ii) boron nitride particles, and (iii) Contains one or more waxes.

[0006] According to certain preferred aspects, the compositions of the present disclosure are anhydrous compositions.

[0007] The present disclosure also relates to a cosmetic method for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials, in particular the skin, eyelids, eyebrows or lips, preferably the lips, which comprises applying a composition of the present disclosure to the keratinous materials. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0008] That is, the present disclosure relates to a solid, preferably anhydrous, cosmetic composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular the skin, eyelids, eyebrows or lips, which comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (i) zinc oxide particles; (ii) boron nitride particles, and (iii) one or more waxes Includes.

[0009] In the present disclosure, the term "anhydrous composition" specifically means that water is preferably not intentionally added to the composition, but may be present in trace amounts in various compounds used in the composition. In particular, the composition of the present disclosure may contain less than 4% by weight, preferably less than 3% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water, based on the total weight of the composition, or even be free of water. According to a specific embodiment, the composition of the present disclosure does not contain water.

[0010] In the present disclosure, a "solid state composition" refers to a composition that has a viscosity of 30 Nm at a temperature of 20°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). -1 Hardness above 40 Nm-1 means a composition having a hardness greater than

[0011] Hardness can be measured at 20°C by the so-called "butter knife method," in which the product, preferably a spheroid, is cut transversely with a stiff metal wire 250 μm in diameter, moving the wire relative to the product at a speed of 60 mm / min. The hardness of the sample is expressed in gram force (Gf) and can be measured using a texture meter such as a TAXT Plus Texturometer.

[0012] For each product type, reference ranges (targets) are set to ensure the mechanical properties of the stick.

[0013] The solid composition of the present disclosure may generally have a hardness of 70 g or more, particularly 90 g or more, for example, in the range of 100 g to 300 g, preferably in the range of 140 g to 210 g. Such compositions (particularly those corresponding to sticks molded in a standard format of about 12.7 mm) have sufficient stability and hardness. The sticks are sufficiently hard and firm to not break during use, making them suitable for packaging in sticks (buds) or other solid forms, and for application by friction to the surface to be treated or made up. They also have characteristics such as ease of application, clean crumbling upon application, and a pleasant texture.

[0014] The composition may in particular be in the form of a stick or packaged in a cup.

[0015] The compositions of the present disclosure include zinc oxide particles.

[0016] Zinc oxide particles The zinc oxide particles exist as a white powder and are insoluble in water.

[0017] The zinc oxide particles may be of non-uniform morphology, generally hexagonal and cubic morphology.

[0018] The zinc oxide particles used in this disclosure are pigmentary zinc oxide particles, as opposed to the zinc oxide nanoparticles used in mineral-based sunscreens.

[0019] The average particle size of the zinc oxide particles used in the present disclosure can generally be in the range of 0.1 to 50 μm (micrometers), particularly 0.1 to 10 μm, and further 0.1 to 1 μm.

[0020] Particle size can be measured by laser diffraction distribution using a Malvern Mastersizer type instrument, in particular by measuring D50, the value that represents the maximum size that occupies 50% of the particle volume.

[0021] In particular, commercially available products include those sold by Merck under the trade name "RONACARE ZINC OXIDE," Kobo under the trade name "A120-ZnO-11S3," and Keyser & Mackay / Grillo under the trade name "ZINC OXIDE COSMETICS."

[0022] According to certain preferred embodiments, the zinc oxide particles comprise more than 80% by weight ZnO, in particular more than 95%, 96%, 97%, 98% or 99% by weight ZnO, or even 100% by weight ZnO.

[0023] The zinc oxide particles used in the present disclosure may or may not be treated with a lipophilic treating agent to enhance dispersibility in the fatty phase.

[0024] According to certain embodiments of the present disclosure, the zinc oxide particles are untreated and have the INCI name "Zinc Oxide."

[0025] According to another particular embodiment, the zinc oxide particles are treated with a lipophilic treating agent.

[0026] Furthermore, mixing the zinc oxide particles with a wetting agent can facilitate dispersion in the composition, thereby improving the uniformity of the composition.

[0027] According to certain embodiments, the content of zinc oxide particles in the composition of the present disclosure can generally be in the range of 0.1% to 50% by mass of zinc oxide, particularly 1% to 30% by mass of zinc oxide, and preferably 2% to 20% by mass of zinc oxide, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0028] In the case of anhydrous solid compositions for skin that are different from powders (e.g., control colors (complexion correctors)), the total content of zinc oxide particles can generally be in the range of 0.5% to 30% by weight (as zinc oxide), preferably 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0029] In the case of anhydrous solid compositions for the lips (e.g., lipstick), the total content of zinc oxide particles can generally be in the range of 0.1% to 30% by weight (as zinc oxide), preferably 0.5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0030] According to certain preferred aspects of the present disclosure, the composition comprises less than 3% by weight, in particular less than 1% by weight, of titanium dioxide, relative to the total weight of the composition, or is free of titanium dioxide.

[0031] According to a further preferred embodiment, the composition of the present disclosure does not contain titanium dioxide.

[0032] The compositions of the present disclosure include boron nitride particles.

[0033] Boron nitride particles The boron nitride particles usable in the present disclosure are generally flaky or plate-like. The term "flaky particles" or "plate-like particles" means that the particle thickness is smaller than the particle width, and particularly means that the ratio of particle width to thickness is in the range of 2 to 100.

[0034] Boron nitride particles are commonly registered under the INCI name: Boron Nitride.

[0035] The boron nitride particles that can be used in the present disclosure may generally have an average particle size measured according to the laser diffraction distribution method described above in the range of 0.5 to 20 μm, particularly 1 to 10 μm.

[0036] In particular, commercially available boron nitride particles may be used, such as "BORON NITRIDE CC" and "SOFTOUCH CC" from SAFIC ALCAN / Momentive, "BORON NITRIDE SHP" from IWASE / Mizushima, "RONAFLAIR" from Merck, and "CARESS BN" from Kobo.

[0037] The boron nitride particles may or may not be surface-treated with a lipophilic treatment agent.

[0038] According to a particular embodiment, the boron nitride particles are not surface treated.

[0039] According to a particular embodiment, the boron nitride particles are not in the form of composite particles.

[0040] According to a particular embodiment, the content of boron nitride particles in the composition of the present disclosure can be in particular in the range of 0.1% to 50% by weight, in particular 0.2% to 40% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 30% by weight, and more preferably 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0041] According to a particular preferred embodiment of the present disclosure, the mass ratio of zinc oxide particles to boron nitride particles can be in the range of 99:1 to 50:50, preferably 99:1 to 80:20, and preferably 99:1 to 90:10.

[0042] The fatty phase of the composition may further comprise one or more waxes.

[0043] wax In the present disclosure, "wax" means a compound that is solid at 25°C, that can reversibly change between solid and liquid states, and that has a melting point of 30°C or higher, preferably 45°C or higher.

[0044] Specific examples include microcrystalline wax, paraffin wax, polyethylene wax, ozokerite, a mixture of polyethylene containing 20 to 50 carbon atoms and alcohol, in particular alkyl dimethicone silicone wax, C20-C40 alkyl stearate, beeswax, plant-derived waxes, copolymers of maleic anhydride and α-olefins, waxes obtained by metallocene catalysts, and mixtures thereof.

[0045] According to certain preferred embodiments, the total content of waxes in the composition of the present disclosure is from 3% to 25% by weight, preferably from 4% to 20% by weight, in particular from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0046] The fatty phase may generally also contain one or more oils.

[0047] In this disclosure, "oil" means a fatty substance that is insoluble in water and is liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure.

[0048] Oils that can be used in the present disclosure include, in particular, hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof. According to certain embodiments, the compositions of the present disclosure can include one or more hydrocarbon oils.

[0049] Hydrocarbon oils include, in particular, hydrocarbon oils of vegetable or mineral origin, linear or branched C8-C19 alkanes, synthetic C10-C40 ethers, synthetic C10-C40 esters, C12-C26 fatty alcohols which may be branched and / or unsaturated, C12-C22 higher fatty acids which may be branched and / or unsaturated, mono- and / or polyesters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0050] Examples of oils of vegetable origin include soybean oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, avocado oil, olive oil, castor oil, jojoba seed oil, peanut oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, pumpkin oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, wheat germ oil, calophyllum oil, sesame oil, macadamia oil, coconut oil, cereal germ oil, candlenut oil, thistle oil, candellila oil, safflower oil, shea butter, and mixtures thereof.

[0051] Examples of C10-C26 aliphatic alcohols include linear or branched, saturated C10-C26, more preferably C16-C20, aliphatic monoalcohols, an example of which is 2-octyldodecanol.

[0052] Examples of linear or branched hydrocarbons include paraffin oil and its derivatives, petrolatum, mineral oil (a mixture of hydrocarbon oils derived from petroleum), polydecenes such as polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polyisoprene, hydrogenated polydecene, or linear, branched and / or cyclic alkanes.

[0053] Examples of branched and / or unsaturated fatty acids include myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, isostearic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0054] Examples of esters include monoesters or polyesters of the above-mentioned fatty acids, linear or branched, whose fatty chain contains 6 to 30 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof, and fatty alcohols whose fatty chain contains 3 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular monoesters and polyesters of hydroxy acids and fatty alcohols, esters of benzoic acid and fatty alcohols, polyesters of polyols, dipentaerythritol C5-C9 esters, or polyglycerin polyesters, trimethylolpropane polyesters, propylene glycol polyesters, etc. Licorice polyester, hydrogenated castor oil polyester, more specifically isononyl isononanoate, stearyl octanoate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate, diisostearyl malate, 2-octyldodecyl lactate, glyceryl triisostearate triisostearate or diglyceryl triisostearate, diisostearyl maleate, octyldodecyl stearyl stearate, cetearyl isononanoate, diisopropyl adipate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, glyceryl tricaprocaprylate, stearyl isocetyl stearate, alkyl benzoate, (di)pentaerythritol, pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, dipentaerythritol pentaisononanoate, bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, trimethylolpropane triethylhexanoate, trimethylolpropane triisostearatetrimethylolpropane, propylene glycol dibenzoate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, a mixture of triglycerides obtained by esterification of glycerol with capric acid and caprylic acid, non-oxyalkylenated polyglycerol esters such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate or polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate (isostearyl lactate), isostearyl lactate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, and diisostearyl malate; glyceryl stearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; jojoba esters; polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate; polyricinoleates, such as polyglyceryl-5 polyricinoleates, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleates, polyglyceryl-10 polyricinoleates (INCI name), and mixtures thereof.

[0055] The content of oil can be in the range of 10 to 90% by mass, preferably 20 to 60% by mass, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0056] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the present disclosure may further comprise one or more pasty fatty substances.

[0057] In the present disclosure, "pasty fatty substance" means an amorphous fatty compound comprising a liquid component and a solid component at a temperature of 25°C.

[0058] In the present disclosure, the pasty fatty substance may be selected from the group consisting of lanolin and its derivatives, polymeric silicone compounds, alkyl (meth)acrylate copolymers preferably having a C8-C30 alkyl group, homo- and copolymer-oligomers of vinyl esters having a C8-C30 alkyl group, homo- and copolymer-oligomers of vinyl ethers having a C8-C30 alkyl group, one or more C2-50 diols, fat-soluble polyethers obtained by polyetherification of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide copolymers with long-chain C6-C30 alkylene oxides, diglycerol esters, arachidyl propionate, phytosterol esters, and the like. esters), non-crosslinked polyesters obtained by polycondensation of dibasic acids or linear or branched C4-C50 polycarboxylic acids with diols or polyols, esters obtained by esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid (e.g., mono- or triisostearate of hydrogenated castor oil), mixtures of soybean sterol and oxyethylenated (5OE) or oxypropylenated (5OP) pentaerythritol, triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives, shea butter, cocoa butter, mango oil or butter, and mixtures thereof.

[0059] In particular, triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives, esters of polyols and fatty acid dimers or any of the esters thereof, esters of hydrogenated castor oil, oligomeric esters of glycerin, especially diglycerin esters, vegetable butters and mixtures thereof may be mentioned.

[0060] The content of pasty fatty substances can range from 0 to 30% by weight, in particular from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0061] Other ingredients The compositions of the present disclosure may further comprise other ingredients selected from lipophilic gelling agents, other fillers, other coloring materials, and mixtures thereof.

[0062] According to a particular embodiment, the composition may further comprise one or more lipophilic gelling agents.

[0063] Lipophilic gelling agents In the present disclosure, "lipophilic gelling agent" means a compound capable of gelling the fatty phase of the composition.

[0064] The lipophilic gelling agent may preferably be selected from natural or synthetic clays; modified natural micas such as fluorosilicates of aluminum, magnesium and potassium; dextrins and fatty acid esters such as dextrin palmitate or dextrin myristate; C8 C30 fatty acids with mono- or polyglyceryl, for example glyceryl tri(hydroxystearate) (INCI name: trihydroxystearin), etc.

[0065] The lipophilic gelling agent is preferably a natural or synthetic clay selected from bentonite, especially hectorite and montmorillonite, beidellite, saponite, nontronite, sepiolite, biotite, attapulgite, vermiculite, and zeolite. Hectorite is preferred. Hectorite modified with a quaternary alkylammonium chloride is also preferred. The quaternary ammonium compound is preferably substituted with one or more, preferably two or more, C14-C20 alkyl radicals. For example, distearyldimonium hectorite, in which the ammonium of the quaternary alkylammonium chloride contains two methyl groups and two stearyl groups, can be used.

[0066] Preferred lipophilic gelling agents include in particular modified hectorite dispersed in oil, such as BENTONE GEL (INCI name: Octyldodecanol (and) Disteardimonium Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate) from Elementis.

[0067] Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the compositions of the present disclosure may further comprise lipophilic gelling agents, in particular mineral gelling agents such as bentones, preferably quaternary hectorite.

[0068] If the composition contains one or more gelling agents, the total content of lipophilic gelling agents may in particular be in the range of 0.5 to 5% by weight, in particular 2 to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0069] According to certain embodiments, the compositions of the present disclosure may further comprise one or more other fillers different from the zinc oxide particles and boron nitride particles. Other Fillers

[0070] Other fillers are used in particular to modify the rheology or texture of the composition and / or to provide a mattifying and / or blurring effect.

[0071] In the present disclosure, "filler" refers to colorless or white, mineral or organic, natural or synthetic particles of any shape (plate-like, spherical, or oblong) dispersed in an insoluble state in the composition. Other fillers different from zinc oxide particles may be selected from natural or synthetic mica; talc; bismuth oxychloride; silica; boron nitride; kaolin; calcium carbonate; magnesium carbonate and magnesium bicarbonate; zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; powders of synthetic polymers such as polyethylene, polyester, polyamide (e.g., nylon); powders of polyacrylic acid or polymethacrylic acid, silicone powders, cellulose powders; glass and ceramic beads; powders of organic materials of natural origin (whether crosslinked or not) such as corn, wheat, rice, cotton; hydroxyapatite, and mixtures thereof.

[0072] According to certain aspects, the compositions of the present disclosure are talc-free.

[0073] The filler may or may not be surface treated, in particular with lipophilic or hydrophobic treatments, such as those described above for zinc oxide particles.

[0074] According to a particular embodiment, the filler is not surface treated.

[0075] According to another particular embodiment, the filler is surface treated with a lipophilic agent as defined above.

[0076] According to certain aspects of the present disclosure, the compositions of the present disclosure may include one or more other coloring materials (different from zinc oxide particles).

[0077] Other coloring materials In this disclosure, "coloring material" means a compound that, when incorporated in a sufficient amount into an appropriate cosmetic medium, is capable of producing a colored optical effect. Coloring materials are conventionally selected from pigments (insoluble in neither the oil nor the water phase) and dyes (soluble in either the oil or water phase).

[0078] The coloring materials may be mineral, synthetic, or naturally occurring.

[0079] According to a particular embodiment, the coloring material may be of mineral or synthetic origin.

[0080] The coloring material may or may not be treated with a lipophilic treating agent.

[0081] The coloring materials can be chosen from organic or inorganic coloring materials, materials with optical effects, and mixtures thereof, which may be soluble or insoluble in the fatty or oily phase of the present disclosure.

[0082] According to a particular embodiment, the other coloring materials are chosen from inorganic pigments, in particular those different from zinc oxide; organic pigments; composite pigments; pearlescent pigments; dyes, and mixtures thereof.

[0083] By "pigment" is meant white or colored, inorganic or organic particles that are insoluble in aqueous solutions and whose purpose is to color and / or opacify the resulting colored product. Mention may be made of mineral pigments, organic pigments, and composite pigments (i.e., pigments based on mineral and / or organic materials).

[0084] Among the inorganic pigments different from zinc oxide, mention may be made in particular of black, yellow, red, and brown iron oxides; manganese violet; ultramarine blue, chromium oxide, and ferric blue. As mentioned above, according to certain embodiments, the compositions of the present disclosure contain less than 3% by weight, in particular less than 1% by weight, of titanium dioxide relative to the total weight of the composition, or are free of titanium dioxide.

[0085] Preferably, the compositions of the present disclosure include one or more iron oxides.

[0086] Examples of "dyes and organic pigments (e.g., lacquer pigments)" include Blue 1, Yellow 5, Yellow 6, Yellow 10, Yellow 11, Red 4, Red 6, Red 7, Red 9, Red 19, Red 13, Red 17, Red 21, Red 22, Red 27, Red 28, Red 30, Red 33, Red 34, Red 36, Red 40, Green 3, Green 4, Violet 2, 2), Carmine, Green 5, Orange 5, Orange 10, Green 6, Sudan red, Sudan brown, Orange 5, quinoline yellow, salts thereof, such as the sodium and barium salts, or lacquer pigments containing one or more of the above dyes or organic pigments, such as Blue 1 lake (CI 42090), Yellow 5 lake (CI 19140), Yellow 6 lake (CI 15985), Yellow 10 lake (CI 47005), Yellow 11 lake, Red 6 lake (CI 15850), Red 7 lake (CI 15850), lake) (CI 15850), Red 21 lake (CI 45380), Red 22 lake (CI 45380), Red 27 lake (CI 45410), Red 28 lake (CI 45410), Red 30 lake (CI 73360), Red 33 lake (CI15880), Red 34 lake (CI 15880), Red 40 lake (CI 16035), and / or their sodium or barium salts, in particular Red 6 Na Lake, Red 6 Ba Lake, and mixtures thereof.

[0087] "Lacquer pigments" are organic pigments containing one or more organic dyes deposited on an inert support (also called a "base"). In particular, lacquers containing a base selected from alumina (Al), barium sulfate (Ba), or calcium rosinate (Ca) can be used. For example, Red 28 Al Lake is a lacquer pigment containing an alumina base on which Red 28 dye is deposited.

[0088] According to a more specific embodiment, the compositions of the present disclosure comprise one or more dyes or organic pigments (e.g., lacquer pigments) selected from Blue 1, Blue 1 Lake (CI 42090), Red 6, Red 6 Lake (15850), Red 7, Red 7 Lake (CI 15850), Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 Lake (CI 45410), and / or their sodium or barium salts, and mixtures thereof; preferably Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 Lake (CI 45410), and / or their sodium or barium salts, and mixtures thereof. The composition preferably comprises one or more dyes or organic pigments (e.g., lacquer pigments) selected from Red 28, Red 28 Lake (CI 45410), and / or their sodium or barium salts, and mixtures thereof; more preferably one or more dyes or organic pigments (e.g., lacquer pigments) selected from Red 28, Red 28 Lake (CI 45410), and / or their sodium or barium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0089] "Pearlescent pigments" particularly include mica containing iron oxide with or without TiO, mica supplemented with the above-mentioned organic pigments, and colored pearlescent pigments such as pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. Commercially available pearlescent pigments include Reflecks®, Ronastar®, Timiron®, and Syncrystal®. Pearlescent pigments may be based on silica, alumina, alumina hydroxide, synthetic mica, tin oxide, borosilicates (e.g., sodium calcium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate, cellulose, or cellulose derivatives).

[0090] According to certain embodiments, the compositions of the present disclosure may include one or more other coloring materials selected from the group consisting of iron oxides, other organic pigments, other pearlescent pigments, and mixtures thereof.

[0091] According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises other coloring materials from the following group:

[0092] (i) Blue 1, Blue 1 Lake (CI 42090), Yellow 5, Yellow 5 Lake (CI 19140), Yellow 6, Yellow 6 Lake (CI 15985), Yellow 10, Yellow 10 Lake (CI 47005), Yellow 11, Yellow 11 Lake (CI 11 Lake), Red 4, Red 4 Lake (CI 14700), Red 6, Red 6 Lake (15850), Red 7, Red 7 Lake (CI 15850), Red 21 21), Red 21 Lake (Red 21 Lake) (CI 45380), Red 22 (Red 22), Red 22 Lake (Red 22 Lake) (CI 45380), Red 27 (Red 27), Red 27 Lake (Red 27 Lake) (CI 45410), Red 28 (Red 28), Red 28 Lake (Red 28 Lake) (CI 45410), Red 30 (Red 30), Red 30 Lake (Red 30 Lake) (CI 73360), Red 33 (Red 33), Red 33 Lake (Red 33 Lake) (CI 15880), Red 34 (Red 34), Red 34 Lake (Red 34 Lake) (CI 15880), Red 40 (Red 40), Red 40 Lake (Red 40 Lake) (CI dyes and organic pigments selected from Red 6 Na Salt Lake, Red 6 Ba Salt Lake, and mixtures thereof;Dyes and organic pigments, in particular selected from Blue 1, Blue 1 Lake (CI 42090), Red 6, Red 6 Lake (15850), Red 7, Red 7 Lake (CI 15850), Red 21, Red 21 Lake (CI 45380), Red 22, Red 22 Lake (CI 45380), Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 Lake (CI 45410), and / or salts thereof, and mixtures thereof; preferably Red 27 dyes and organic pigments selected from Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 Lake (CI 45410), and / or salts thereof, and mixtures thereof; (ii) inorganic and / or organic substrates, in particular silica, borosilicate or alumina, in which one or more of the above-mentioned dyes or organic pigments are embedded or encapsulated, and composite pigments comprising mixtures thereof; (iii) pearlescent pigments comprising a substrate, in particular mica, coated with one or more of the above-mentioned dyes or organic pigments, and mixtures thereof; in particular pearlescent pigments comprising synthetic mica coated with a dye or organic pigment selected from Blue 1, Blue 1 Lake (CI 42090), Yellow 5, Yellow 5 Lake (CI 19140), Red 6, Red 6 Lake (15850), Red 7, Red 7 Lake (CI 15850), Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 Lake (CI 45410), Carmine, and mixtures thereof; (iv) and mixtures thereof; is selected from More preferably, the pigment is selected from a dye or organic pigment selected from Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28, and Red 28 Lake (CI 45410); or a composite pigment comprising Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28, or Red 28 Lake (CI 45410); a pearl pigment comprising Red 27, Red 27 Lake, Red 28, or Red 28 Lake (CI 45410); and mixtures thereof.

[0093] In particular, the coloring materials may be present in the composition in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 25% by weight, including the content of zinc oxide particles, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0094] In the case of care compositions, the total content of coloring materials (including the content of zinc oxide particles) can generally range from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0095] In the case of a makeup composition, the total content of colorants (including the content of zinc oxide particles) may generally be in the range of 5 to 25% by mass, particularly 8 to 15% by mass, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0096] According to certain embodiments, the compositions of the present disclosure comprise the following components: Zinc oxide particles Boron nitride particles one or more waxes in a total content ranging from 3 to 25% by mass relative to the total weight of the composition; Hydrocarbon oil optionally, a lipophilic gelling agent Optionally, one or more coloring materials selected from the group consisting of iron oxides, dyes and organic pigments, pearlescent pigments, and mixtures thereof. and containing less than 3% by weight, in particular less than 1% by weight, of titanium dioxide relative to the total weight of the composition, or no titanium dioxide.

[0097] According to certain preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present disclosure comprise the following components: Zinc oxide particles, in particular zinc oxide particles in a content of 0.5 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition Boron nitride particles, in particular boron nitride particles with a content of 0.2 to 40% by mass relative to the total weight of the composition one or more waxes, in particular waxes with a total content of 3 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, Hydrocarbon oil One or more lipophilic gelling agents One or more coloring materials selected from the group consisting of iron oxides, dyes and organic pigments, pearl pigments, and mixtures thereof Contains no titanium dioxide.

[0098] According to a preferred aspect, the mass ratio of zinc oxide particles to boron nitride particles in these preferred embodiments may range from 99:1 to 50:50, in particular from 99:1 to 80:20, preferably from 99:1 to 90:10.

[0099] GALENIC The compositions of the present disclosure are care and / or makeup compositions for keratinous materials, in particular for the skin, eyelids, eyebrows or lips, preferably for the eyelids, eyebrows or lips.

[0100] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the present disclosure is in the form of a stick or a composition packaged in a pot or cup.

[0101] According to certain preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present disclosure are lip sticks or compositions contained in pots or cups.

[0102] According to another particular embodiment, the composition of the present disclosure is a pencil liner.

[0103] According to another particular embodiment, the composition of the present disclosure is an eyebrow stick or pencil or a composition contained in a pot or cup (e.g., an eyebrow pencil) to be applied with a finger or a brush.

[0104] According to another embodiment, the composition of the present disclosure is a stick for eyelids (e.g., eye shadow) that can be applied with a finger, sponge, or brush, or a composition packaged in a pot or cup.

[0105] According to another embodiment, the composition of the present disclosure is a stick or pot or cup composition (e.g., a complexion corrector or concealer) that can be applied to the skin of the face, especially to specific areas, with a finger, a sponge or a brush.

[0106] That is, the composition of the present disclosure is in particular in the form of a liner pencil, an eyebrow pencil, a blush or eye shadow, or a complexion corrector or concealer, and preferably in the form of a lipstick.

[0107] Makeup method The present disclosure also relates to a cosmetic method for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials, in particular the skin, eyelids, eyebrows, lips, preferably the lips.

[0108] The composition of the present disclosure is as defined above.

[0109] According to certain embodiments, the composition of the present disclosure applied to keratinous materials comprises the following components: zinc oxide particles, Boron nitride particles, one or more waxes in a total content ranging from 3 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; Hydrocarbon oils, optionally a lipophilic gelling agent, Optionally, one or more coloring materials selected from the group consisting of iron oxides, dyes and organic pigments, pearlescent pigments, and mixtures thereof. and containing less than 3% by weight, in particular less than 1% by weight, of titanium dioxide relative to the total weight of the composition, or no titanium dioxide at all.

[0110] According to certain preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present disclosure applied to keratinous materials comprise the following components: Zinc oxide particles, in particular zinc oxide particles in a content of 0.5 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition Boron nitride particles, in particular boron nitride particles with a content of 0.2 to 40% by mass relative to the total weight of the composition one or more waxes in a total content of 3 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; Hydrocarbon oils, one or more lipophilic gelling agents, One or more coloring materials selected from the group consisting of iron oxides, dyes and organic pigments, pearl pigments, and mixtures thereof Contains no titanium dioxide.

[0111] Preferably, the composition to be applied to the skin or lips is in the form of a lipstick, a liner pencil, an eyebrow pencil, a blush or eyeshadow, or a complexion corrector or concealer, preferably a lipstick. [Example]

[0112] The present invention will be described below by way of non-limiting examples. % refers to the mass % of the component relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise specified.

[0113] Example 1: Influence of boron nitride particles on the structure, use and sensory properties of a composition Preliminary tests were conducted to determine the coverage of zinc oxide particles that can be formulated as a replacement for titanium dioxide. These results confirmed that, to achieve equivalent coverage, an anhydrous solid composition according to the present disclosure requires approximately 3 to 4 times the amount of zinc oxide particles as titanium dioxide to achieve equivalent coverage.

[0114] In the following examples, a control formulation was used in which the amount of titanium dioxide ("TiO2") was 1.4 wt. % based on the total weight of the composition.

[0115] A formulation that replaces TiO2 with zinc oxide (ZnO) particles alone contains 4.4% ZnO by weight, but adding this amount of ZnO makes the stick more prone to crumbling, making it difficult to apply and prone to crumbling, and resulting in uneven adhesion to the lips.

[0116] The inventors therefore sought a solution to compensate for these detrimental effects on stick structure, application and sensory properties of the stick, and used boron nitride ("BN") particles.

[0117] Examples of a control formulation (TiO2), a comparative formulation (ZnO alone), and a formulation according to the present invention (ZnO+BN) are shown below.

[0118] [Table 1]

[0119] *The amount of ZnO is approximately three times the amount of TiO2 to achieve the same level of coverage and "same color tone" between each formula.

[0120] Composition preparation procedure: The composition is prepared according to the following procedure. All coloring particles (ZnO, TiO2, organic pigments / lacquers) are prepared in advance in the form of pigment paste. Each pigment or lacquer is dispersed in an oily medium. The oil, pasty fatty substances, modified hectorite, preservatives, and most of the wax are weighed and heated to 95°C. Stirring allows for homogenization immediately after heating.

[0121] The pigment paste is then added and the mixture is passed through a rotor-stator to promote homogenization within the medium.

[0122] The filling is then added and everything is homogenized before being molded at a temperature of 85-90°C. The mold is kept at room temperature for 10 minutes, then in the freezer for 5 minutes. The sticks are removed from the moulds and allowed to stand at room temperature in the package (sticks).

[0123] Evaluation of the properties of the resulting sticks: The structural properties of the stick (especially its hardness) and the application and sensory properties (especially the evenness and slipperiness of the deposit when applied) are evaluated.

[0124] The hardness characteristics of the different sticks are evaluated at 20°C using a method known as the "butter knife method." This involves cutting the stick-shaped product (a rotating cylinder) transversely with a stiff metal wire 250 μm in diameter, moving across the stick at a speed of 60 mm / min. The hardness of the samples is evaluated using a texturometer, such as a TAXT Texturometer, and is expressed in gram force (Gf). Values ​​obtained for lipsticks typically range from 70 to 300 g. For the compositions disclosed herein, a hardness as close as possible to that of a control sample in which TiO2 is substituted for ZnO (hardness range: 140 to 190 g). The evaluation results are shown in the table below.

[0125] [Table 2]

[0126] These results demonstrate that the use of boron nitride particles as a substitute for titanium dioxide in compositions containing zinc oxide particles in an amount sufficient to provide equivalent coverage can compensate for the undesirable effects of zinc oxide particles on stick structure, application, and sensory properties, thereby allowing compositions without titanium dioxide to retain the desired properties (at a level comparable to that of the titanium dioxide control).

[0127] Example 2: Prescription The following examples are illustrative, non-limiting examples of the present invention, prepared according to methods well known to cosmetic formulators.

[0128] 2.1 Anhydrous lip stick

[0129] [Table 3]

[0130] This lipstick exhibits the expected properties in terms of application structure and sensory properties: when applied to the lips, the lipstick spreads evenly and has good adhesion.

[0131] 2.2 Waterless eyeshadow

[0132] [Table 4]

[0133] The eyeshadow, packaged in a cup, meets the expectations in terms of application structure and sensory properties: when applied to the eyelids, it spreads evenly, providing coverage and a pearlescent shine.

[0134] 2.3 Anhydrous lip sticks

[0135] [Table 5]

[0136] This lipstick exhibits the expected properties in terms of application structure and sensory properties: when applied to the lips, the lipstick spreads evenly and has good adhesion.

Claims

1. A solid, preferably anhydrous, cosmetic composition for the care and / or make-up of keratinous materials, in particular the skin, eyelids, eyebrows or lips, which comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (i) Zinc oxide particles (ii) boron nitride particles, and (iii) one or more waxes; and wherein the titanium dioxide content is less than 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

2. 2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the total content of waxes ranges from 3 to 25% by weight, preferably from 4 to 20% by weight, in particular from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. 3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, further comprising one or more pasty fatty substances.

4. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, which contains less than 1% of titanium dioxide, based on the total weight of the composition, or which does not contain titanium dioxide.

5. 5. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 , wherein the content of zinc oxide particles is from 0.1 to 50% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 40% by weight, in particular from 2 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. 6. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 , wherein the content of boron nitride particles is from 0.1 to 50% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the weight ratio of zinc oxide particles to boron nitride particles ranges from 99:1 to 50:50, preferably from 99:1 to 80:20, preferably from 99:1 to 90:

10.

8. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, further comprising additional ingredients selected from lipophilic gelling agents, other fillers, other colouring materials and mixtures thereof.

9. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, in the form of a stick or a composition packaged in a pot or cup.

10. 10. The cosmetic composition according to claim 9, which is a stick for lipstick, a liner pencil, an eyebrow pencil, a blush or an eyeshadow, or a complexion corrector or a concealer.

11. A cosmetic method for keratinous materials, in particular the skin, eyelids, eyebrows or lips, preferably lip care and / or make-up, comprising applying a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10 to the keratinous materials.

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