A cosmetic hair treatment method comprising a washing step, a step of applying a cosmetic composition comprising an amino acid and a hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acid, and a conditioning step.

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic hair treatment method comprising the steps of: - washing the hair with a cosmetic cleaning composition comprising an anionic and / or amphoteric surfactant, followed by - applying a cosmetic composition comprising one or more amino acid type compounds and one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms and / or salts thereof, followed by - a conditioning step with a cosmetic care composition comprising one or more conditioning agents; The present invention relates to a method comprising the steps of:

Description

[Technical field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic hair treatment method which consists in applying, in sequence, a cosmetic hair washing composition, then a composition comprising one or more compounds of amino acid type and one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, then a cosmetic care composition comprising one or more conditioning agents. [Background technology]

[0002] Consumers around the world are typically in contact with a wide variety of water sources, which is not without impact on hair, particularly with regard to the cosmetic properties and / or performance qualities of hair care products.

[0003] For example, "mineral" water contains varying amounts of minerals present in the form of dissolved ions, such as calcite (present in the form of calcium), dolomite (present in the form of calcium and magnesium), magnetite (present in the form of iron), and chalcanthite (present in the form of copper). "Hard water" is also concentrated in minerals such as calcium and magnesium, and pool water is concentrated in copper salts, which come from the algaecides used in pool treatment.

[0004] Hair has a strong tendency to absorb these minerals and / or their metal salts, in particular due to the presence on its surface of anionic functional groups corresponding to the sulfonic or carboxylate functional groups of keratin. Moreover, it has been described that the isoelectric point of individual hairs is generally between 3.2 and 4. As a result, in daily life, the pH of the water applied to hair is higher than these values, resulting in negatively charged fibers.

[0005] Minerals, which are often multivalent cations, are attracted to these negatively charged fibers, where they are trapped and chemically bonded. This prevents the release of minerals by conventional hair treatment methods. As a result, minerals can accumulate on the hair over time. Such deposition depends on the nature and length of the hair (particularly its porosity and charge), the state of damage, as well as the hardness of the water, the frequency and / or duration of exposure of the hair to the water in question.

[0006] The accumulation of these minerals and / or their metal salts can lead to alterations in the hair fibre, in particular to more or less pronounced changes in the cosmetic properties of individual hairs. Thus, calcium and magnesium accumulations can lead to dull, dry hair, while copper accumulations can cause hair to turn green.

[0007] Furthermore, the accumulation of metal (e.g. iron, copper) salts can accelerate the damage caused to the hair since they catalyze oxidation / reduction reactions and generate the hydroxyl radical HO°, which is harmful to keratin fibers even in small quantities.

[0008] This can result in photodegradation of the fibers, increased lightening of the fibers, detrimental changes in the properties of the hair and can cause premature breakage of individual hairs, which are particularly evident after the use of lightening or dyeing products.

[0009] In other words, the accumulation of minerals and / or their metal salts reduces the resistance of the hair, making it weaker and in fact more prone to breakage and may also cause it to lose its luster. Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0010] Therefore, in order to counteract its adverse effects and overcome all of the above disadvantages, there is a need for compositions available that make it possible to combat the accumulation of metal ions caused by minerals and metal salts dissolved in the water, and even to actually extract them from the keratin fibers. [Means for solving the problem]

[0011] This objective can be achieved by using the compositions described below between the shampoo and the care composition (for example a hair conditioner).

[0012] Thus, one aspect of the present invention is - a cleaning step (i) comprising applying a cleaning cosmetic composition A comprising one or more anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, followed by - step (ii) of applying to the hair a cosmetic composition B comprising one or more amino acid type compounds and one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms and / or their salts, followed by - a hair conditioning step (iii) comprising applying a cosmetic care composition C comprising one or more conditioning agents selected from cationic surfactants, cationic polymers, silicones, fatty substances and mixtures thereof; A cosmetic hair treatment method comprising the steps of: [Mode for carrying out the invention]

[0013] It has been found that the method according to the invention makes it possible to improve the resistance of the hair to breakage, to strengthen the hair and also to significantly limit the deterioration or loss of gloss, an undesirable effect that may be caused by the presence of metal ions, in particular copper or calcium ions, in the fibres.

[0014] After carrying out this process, the fibers appear reinforced, said reinforcement being improved by successive applications of the composition.

[0015] It has also been found that the compositions used in connection with the present invention are capable of imparting conditioning properties to the hair, in particular smoothness, softness, shine and ease of tangling, whilst at the same time imparting strength, body and volume to the hair.

[0016] The method according to the invention is particularly suitable for hair that is sensitized, weakened and / or damaged, in particular as a result of physical (repeated brushing) and / or chemical treatments, such as dyeing, bleaching, perming and / or straightening.

[0017] It is also particularly suitable for the cosmetic treatment of hair deposited with metals, in particular with a content of at least 100 ppm, better still with a content of at least 200 ppm, in particular copper, in particular with a content of at least 100 ppm, better still with a content of at least 200 ppm, and / or calcium, in particular with a content of at least 4000 ppm, better still with a content of at least 10000 ppm.

[0018] Thus, the hair treatment method according to the invention comprises a hair washing step (i) which comprises the application of a cleansing cosmetic composition comprising one or more anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants.

[0019] This step may or may not be followed by a leave-on time of, for example, 1 to 15 minutes, in particular 2 to 5 minutes.

[0020] This step may or may not be followed by a rinsing step, for example with water, before carrying out step (ii).

[0021] Preferably, said step (i) is followed by a rinsing step, after a possible leave-on time of 1 to 15 minutes.Thus, preferably, the method according to the invention comprises an intermediate rinsing step between steps (i) and (ii).

[0022] The method of treating hair according to the invention comprises step (ii) of applying to the hair a cosmetic composition as defined below.

[0023] This step may or may not be followed by a leave-on time of, for example, 1 to 15 minutes, especially 2 to 5 minutes.

[0024] This step may optionally be followed by a rinsing step, for example with water.

[0025] Preferably, step (ii) is not followed by a rinsing step before performing step (iii).

[0026] The hair treatment method according to the invention comprises a step (iii) of conditioning the hair, which comprises applying a cosmetic care (or conditioning) composition comprising one or more conditioning agents selected from cationic surfactants, cationic polymers, silicones, fatty substances and mixtures thereof.

[0027] This step may or may not be followed by a leave-on time of, for example, 1 to 15 minutes, especially 2 to 5 minutes.

[0028] This step may or may not be followed by a rinsing step, for example with water.

[0029] Preferably, step (iii) is followed by a rinsing step, after a possible leave-on time of 1 minute to 15 minutes, and optionally after a drying step.

[0030] Steps (i), (ii) and (iii) may be performed consecutively or sequentially, i.e. step (i) precedes step (ii) and step (ii) precedes step (iii). There may be intermediate steps between these steps, such as leave-on and / or rinsing and / or drying steps. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

[0031] In the text herein below, unless otherwise stated, the boundaries of numerical ranges are encompassed within the range, in particular the expressions "to" and "ranging from".

[0032] Furthermore, as used herein, the phrase "at least one" is equivalent to and may be replaced by the phrase "one or more."

[0033] A / cleaning composition A applied in step (i) The hair treatment method according to the invention comprises a hair "washing" step (i) which comprises applying to the hair a cleansing cosmetic composition A comprising one or more anionic surfactants and / or one or more amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

[0034] In known manner, the cleaning composition, or shampoo, may also comprise one or more nonionic surfactants as described hereinafter for composition B; the preferences and contents indicated herein, in particular, may also apply to composition A.

[0035] Anionic Surfactants The cleansing cosmetic composition A may also contain one or more anionic surfactants.

[0036] The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant that contains only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups.

[0037] As used herein, a chemical species is said to be "anionic" if it has at least one permanent negative charge or if it can be ionized to a negatively charged species under the conditions of use (e.g., medium or pH) of the compositions of the invention and does not contain any cationic charges.

[0038] The anionic surfactants may be sulfate, sulfonate, and / or carboxylic (or carboxylate) surfactants. Of course, mixtures of these surfactants may be used.

[0039] In this specification, - Carboxylate type anionic surfactants have at least one carboxylic acid or carboxylate group (-COOH or -COO - ), optionally including one or more sulfate and / or sulfonate groups; - Sulfonate type anionic surfactants contain at least one sulfonate group (-SO 3 H or -SO 3 - ), optionally containing one or more sulfate groups, but no carboxylate groups; and - Sulfate type anionic surfactants contain at least one sulfate group but no carboxylate or sulfonate groups It is understood that.

[0040] Therefore, the usable carboxylic acid type anionic surfactant has at least one carboxylic acid group or carboxylate group (-COOH or -COO - ).

[0041] These may be selected from the following compounds: acyl glycinates, acyl lactylates, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates; alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl (C 6 ~ 30and salts of these compounds, in which the alkyl and / or acyl groups contain from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 and even better from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and the aryl group preferably denotes a phenyl or benzyl group. These compounds may be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, in which case they preferably contain from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0042] Polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acid C 6 ~C 24 Alkyl monoesters, such as C 6 ~C 24 Alkyl polyglycoside citrate, C 6 ~C 24 Alkyl polyglycoside-tartrate ester and C 6 ~C 24 Alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinate esters and the like, as well as salts thereof, may also be used.

[0043] Among the abovementioned carboxylic acid surfactants, mention may be made most particularly of the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amide)ether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those containing 2 to 50 alkylene oxide, in particular ethylene oxide, groups, such as the compounds sold under the name Akypo by Kao Corporation.

[0044] The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amide) ether carboxylic acids that can be used preferably have the formula (1): R 1’ -(OC 2 H 4 ) n’ -OCH 2 COOA (1) (In the formula, - R 1’ is linear or branched C 6 ~C 24Alkyl or alkenyl groups, (C 8 ~C 9 ) alkylphenyl group, R 2’ is linear or branched C 9 ~C 21 R represents an alkyl or alkenyl group 2’ CONH-CH 2 -CH 2 - group; preferably, R 1’ is C 8 ~C 20 , preferably C 8 ~C 18 is an alkyl group; - n' is an integer or decimal (average value) ranging from 2 to 24, preferably from 2 to 10; - A represents H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue. The above is selected from the following:

[0045] Mixtures of compounds of formula (1), in particular mixtures of compounds of different R 1’ It is also possible to use mixtures of compounds containing the group.

[0046] Particularly preferred polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amide) ether carboxylic acids are those represented by formula (1): - R 1’ But linear or branched C 8 ~C 22 , especially C 10 ~C 16 , in fact C 12 ~C 14 Alkyl group, or ((C 8 ~C 9 ) an alkylphenyl group; A represents a hydrogen or sodium atom, n' is in the range of 2 to 20, preferably 2 to 10.

[0047] More preferentially, R 1’ C 12 ~C 14A compound of formula (1) is used, which represents an alkyl, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl, or octylphenyl group, A represents a hydrogen or sodium atom, and n' is in the range of 2 to 10.

[0048] Among the commercially available products, the products sold by Kao Corporation under the following names are preferred: Akypo® NP 70(R 1 = nonylphenyl, n=7, A=H) Akypo® NP 40(R 1 = nonylphenyl, n = 4, A = H) Akypo® OP 40(R 1 = octylphenyl, n = 4, A = H) Akypo® OP 80(R 1 = octylphenyl, n = 8, A = H) Akypo® OP 190(R 1 = octylphenyl, n = 19, A = H) Akypo® RLM 38(R 1 =(C 12 ~C 14 )Alkyl, n=4, A=H) Akypo® RLM 38 NV(R 1 =(C 12 ~C 14 ) alkyl, n=4, A=Na) Akypo® RLM 45 CA(R 1 =(C 12 ~C 14 ) alkyl, n=4.5, A=H) Akypo® RLM 45 NV(R 1 =(C 12 ~C 14 ) alkyl, n=4.5, A=Na) Akypo® RLM 100(R 1 =(C 12 ~C 14 ) alkyl, n=10, A=H) Akypo® RLM 100 NV(R 1 =(C 12 ~C 14 ) alkyl, n=10, A=Na) Akypo® RLM 130(R 1 =(C 12 ~C 14 ) alkyl, n=13, A=H) Akypo® RLM 160 NV(R 1 =(C 12 ~C 14 ) alkyl, n=16, A=Na), or products sold by Sandoz under the following names: Sandopan DTC-Acid(R 1 =(C 13 ) alkyl, n=6, A=H) Sandopan DTC (R 1 =(C 13 ) alkyl, n=6, A=Na) Sandopan LS 24(R 1 =(C 12 ~C 14 ) alkyl, n=12, A=Na) Sandopan JA 36(R 1 =(C 13 ) alkyl, n=18, A=H) can be used; More specifically, products sold under the following names: Akypo® RLM 45 (INCI: Laureth-5 carboxylic acid) Akypo® RLM 100 Akypo® RLM 38 may be used.

[0049] Preferentially, the carboxylic acid type anionic surfactants are, alone or in mixtures, the following: - Acylglutamates, especially C 6 ~C 24Or even C 12 ~C 20 for example stearoyl glutamates, in particular disodium stearoyl glutamate; - Acyl sarcosinates, especially C 6 ~C 24 Or even C 12 ~C 20 for example palmitoyl sarcosinates, in particular sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate; - Acyl lactylates, especially C 12 ~C 28 Or even C 14 ~C 24 for example behenoyl actylates, especially sodium behenoyl lactate; - C 6 ~C 24 , especially C 12 ~C 20 Acyl glycinates; - (C 6 ~C 24 ) alkyl ether carboxylates, especially (C 12 ~C 20 ) alkyl ether carboxylates; in particular those containing 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups; - Polyoxyalkylenated (C 6 ~C 24 ) alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, in particular those containing 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups; Especially those in the acid form or in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, or amino alcohol salts. is selected from.

[0050] Preferably, the polyoxyalkylenated (C 6 ~C 24 ) Alkyl ether carboxylic acids and their salts are used.

[0051] The sulfonate-type anionic surfactants that can be used have at least one sulfonate group (-SO 3 H or -SO 3 -These may be selected from the following compounds: alkyl sulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, alkyl amido sulfonates, alkyl aryl sulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkyl amido sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acyl isethionates; alkyl sulfolaurates; as well as salts of these compounds; The alkyl groups of these compounds contain from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 and even more preferably from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably refers to a phenyl or benzyl group; These compounds are optionally polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably contain from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0052] Preferentially, the sulfonate type anionic surfactants are, alone or in mixtures, the following: - C 6 ~C 24 , especially C 12 ~C 20 Olefin sulfonates; - C 6 ~C 24 , especially C 12 ~C 20 Alkyl sulfosuccinates, especially lauryl sulfosuccinate; - C 6 ~C 24 , especially C 12 ~C 20 Alkyl ether sulfosuccinates; - (C 6 ~C 24 ) acyl isethionates, preferably (C 12 ~C 18) Acyl isethionates; Especially in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts. is selected from.

[0053] The sulfate-type anionic surfactants that can be used are those that contain at least one sulfate group (-OSO 3 H or -OSO 3 - ).

[0054] These may be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl amido ether sulfates, alkyl aryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; and salts of these compounds; The alkyl groups of these compounds contain from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 and even more preferably from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably refers to a phenyl or benzyl group; These compounds are optionally polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably contain from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0055] Preferentially, the sulfate type anionic surfactants are, alone or in mixtures, the following: - Alkyl sulfates, especially C 6 ~C 24 Or even C 12 ~C 20 and - Alkyl ether sulfates, especially C 6 ~C 24 Or even C 12 ~C 20 preferably containing 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units; Especially in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts. is selected from.

[0056] When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, the salt may be selected from alkali metal salts, such as sodium or potassium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, especially amino alcohol salts, and alkaline earth metal salts, such as magnesium salts.

[0057] Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned include the monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, the monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, the 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, the 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol salts and the tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

[0058] Alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, especially the sodium or magnesium salts, are preferably used.

[0059] Preferentially, the anionic surfactants are, alone or in mixtures, the following: - C 6 ~C 24 , especially C 12 ~C 20 Alkyl sulfates; - C 6 ~C 24 , especially C 12 ~C 20 Alkyl ether sulfates; preferably those containing 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units; - C 6 ~C 24 , especially C 12 ~C 20 Alkyl sulfosuccinates, especially lauryl sulfosuccinate; - C 6 ~C 24 , especially C 12 ~C 20 Olefin sulfonates; - C 6 ~C 24 , especially C 12 ~C 20 Alkyl ether sulfosuccinates; - (C 6 ~C24 ) acyl isethionates, preferably (C 12 ~C 18) Acyl isethionates; - C 6 ~C 24 , especially C 12 ~C 20 acyl sarcosinates, especially palmitoyl sarcosinate; - (C 6 ~C 24 ) alkyl ether carboxylates, preferably (C 12 ~C 20 ) alkyl ether carboxylates; in particular those containing 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups; - Polyoxyalkylenated (C 6 ~C 24 ) alkylamido ether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those containing 2 to 50 alkylene oxide, in particular ethylene oxide, groups; - C 6 ~C 24 , especially C 12 ~C 20 Acyl glutamates; - C 6 ~C 24 , especially C 12 ~C 20 Acyl glycinates; Especially those in the acid form or in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, or amino alcohol salts. is selected from.

[0060] Preferably, the composition contains one or more sulfate anionic surfactants, preferably one or more C 6 ~C 24 , especially C 12 ~C 20 Alkyl sulfate, and / or one or more C 6 ~C 24 , especially C 12 ~C 20Alkyl ether sulfates; preferably those containing from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, especially in the form of the alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

[0061] The anionic surfactants may be present in the cleaning composition according to the invention in a total amount ranging from 2% to 30% by weight, in particular from 4% to 25% by weight, better still from 5% to 20% by weight and even better still from 6% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0062] Amphoteric surfactants The cleaning composition A according to the invention may comprise one or more amphoteric surfactants.

[0063] In particular, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are non-silicone surfactants. They may in particular be optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, whose aliphatic group is linear or branched and contains from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, such as a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

[0064] In particular, 8 ~C 20 ) alkyl betaine, (C 8 ~C 20 ) alkyl sulfobetaine, (C 8 ~C 20 ) Alkylamide (C 3 ~C 8 ) alkyl betaine, and (C 8 ~C 20 ) Alkylamide (C 6 ~C 8 ) Alkyl sulfobetaines can be mentioned.

[0065] Among the optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines defined above that can be used, further mention may be made of compounds having the following structures (II) and (III): Ra -CONHCH 2 CH 2 -N + (Rb)(R c )-CH 2 COO - ,M + ,X - (II) (In the formula, - R a is preferably C derived from the acid RaCOOH present in the hydrolyzed palm kernel oil 10 ~C 30 represents an alkyl or alkenyl group, or represents a heptyl group, a nonyl group, or an undecyl group; - R b represents a β-hydroxyethyl group; - R c represents a carboxymethyl group; - M + represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, e.g., sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from an organic amine; -X - is an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, e.g., halide, acetate, phosphate, nitrate, (C 1 ~C 4 ) alkyl sulfate, (C 1 ~C 4 ) alkyl- or (C 1 ~C 4 ) an ion selected from alkylaryl-sulfonates, in particular from methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; or M + and X - does not exist); R a’ -CONHCH 2 CH 2 -N(B)(B') (III) (In the formula, - B is -CH 2 -CH 2 represents an -OX' group; - B' is -(CH 2 ) zrepresents a Y′ group, where z=1 or 2; - X' is -CH 2 COOH group, -CH 2 -COOZ' group, -CH 2 CH 2 COOH group or CH 2 CH 2 -COOZ' group or a hydrogen atom; - Y' is a -COOH group, a -COOZ' group, or a -CH 2 -CH(OH)SO 3 H group or -CH 2 CH(OH)SO 3 represents a -Z' group; - Z' represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from an organic amine; Ra' is the C of the acid Ra'COOH preferably present in the hydrolyzed linseed oil or palm kernel oil. 10 ~C 30 Alkyl or alkenyl groups, alkyl groups, especially C 17 Alkyl groups and their isoforms, or unsaturated C 17 (representing the group).

[0066] These compounds are listed in the CTFA Dictionary, 5th Edition (1993) as disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, and cocoamphodipropionic acid. They are classified under the name of benzodiazepine (benzoic acid).

[0067] One example is cocoamphodiacetate, sold by Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate.

[0068] Compounds of formula (IV) may also be used: R a’’ -NHCH(Y'')-(CH 2 ) n CONH(CH 2 ) n’ -N(R d )(R e )(IV) (In the formula, - Y" is a -COOH group, a -COOZ" group, or a -CH 2 -CH(OH)SO 3 H group or -CH 2 CH(OH)SO 3 represents a -Z'' group; - Rd and R e are, independently of each other, C 1 ~C 4 represents an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group; - Z'' represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from an organic amine; - R a’’ is the acid R preferably present in the hydrolyzed linseed oil or palm kernel oil. a’’ -COOHC 10 ~C 30 represents an alkyl group or an alkenyl group; - n and n' each independently represent an integer of 1 to 3.

[0069] Among the compounds of formula (II), mention may be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and sold by the company Chimex under the name Chimexane HB.

[0070] These compounds can be used alone or in mixtures.

[0071] Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, preferred are those 8 ~C 20 ) alkyl betaines, such as cocoyl betaine, (C 8 ~C 20 ) Alkylamide (C 3 ~C 8 ) alkyl betaines, such as cocamidopropyl betaine, and mixtures thereof, as well as compounds of formula (IV), such as the sodium salt of diethylaminopropyl laurylaminosuccinamic acid (INCI name: sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide), are used.

[0072] Preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant is a (C 8 ~C 20 ) Alkylamide (C 3 ~C 8 ) alkyl betaines.

[0073] Preferably, the amphoteric surfactants are present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 3% to 20% by weight, preferentially from 3.5% to 15% by weight and better still from 4% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0074] Other Ingredients The cleaning composition A according to the present invention is a mixture of water or water and C 1 ~C 4 It may comprise a mixture with one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents selected from alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; polyols, such as glycerol, propylene glycol and polyethylene glycol; and mixtures thereof.

[0075] Preferably, the cleaning composition according to the invention has a total water content of from 20% to 95% by weight, preferably from 30% to 90% by weight, preferentially from 40% to 85% by weight and better still from 50% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0076] The pH of the cleaning composition according to the invention generally varies in the range from 3 to 9, preferably from 3 to 7, preferentially from 3.5 to 6 and better still from 4 to 5.5.

[0077] B / Composition B applied in step (ii) The hair treatment method according to the invention therefore comprises a step (ii) of applying to the hair a cosmetic composition B comprising one or more compounds of amino acid type and one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms and / or their salts.

[0078] Amino acid type compounds Composition B used in connection with the present invention comprises one or more compounds of the amino acid type.

[0079] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "compound of amino acid type" means an organic compound comprising one or more carboxylic acid and / or sulfonic acid functions and one or more amine functions, which amine functions can be endocyclic, optionally in the form of a salt.

[0080] Preferably, the compounds of amino acid type are chosen from compounds of amino acid type containing only one or more carboxylic acid functions (and therefore no sulfonic acid functions) and / or their salts, said compounds being also called compounds of aminocarboxylic acid type, and are particularly preferred.

[0081] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more compounds of amino acid type selected from the compounds corresponding to formula (I) below and / or salts thereof:

[0082] Thus, the amino acid type compound may correspond to formula (I): [ka] where p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, it is understood that: - when p=1, R together with the nitrogen atom form a saturated heterocycle containing 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 ring members, which ring is 1 ~C 4 ) alkyl; - when p=2, R is a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear or branched (C 1 ~C 12 ) alkyl, preferably (C 1 ~C 4) alkyl group, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH), and / or hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH 2 ), -SH, -COOH, -CONH 2 or -NH-C(NH)-NH 2 and optionally substituted with one or more groups selected from:

[0083] Preferably, when p=1, R together with the nitrogen atom form a saturated heterocyclic ring containing 5 ring members, which ring is unsubstituted.

[0084] Preferably, p=2.

[0085] Preferably, when p=2, R is a hydrogen atom or a saturated linear or branched (C 1 ~C 4 ) alkyl group, optionally interrupted by a heteroatom -S- and / or optionally hydroxyl, amino, or -NH-C(NH)-NH 2 is substituted with one or two groups selected from:

[0086] Preferentially, p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom.

[0087] The amino acid type compound may be a salt of the compound of formula (I).

[0088] These salts include salts with organic or inorganic bases, for example, alkali metal salts, for example lithium, sodium or potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts, for example magnesium or calcium salts, and zinc salts.

[0089] Compounds of amino acid type can be in the optical isomeric form of the L, D or DL ​​configuration, preferably the L configuration.

[0090] Examples according to the invention of compounds in the optical isomeric form of the L configuration include L-proline, L-methionine, L-serine, L-arginine and L-lysine.

[0091] Preferably, the compounds of amino acid type according to the invention are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts (especially the alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or zinc salts), and mixtures thereof.

[0092] Preferably, the compound of amino acid type according to the invention is selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, their salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0093] Even better, the compound of amino acid type is chosen from glycine, its salts (in particular the alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or zinc salts), and mixtures thereof.

[0094] Glycine salts according to the present invention include sodium glycine, zinc glycine, calcium glycine, magnesium glycine, manganese glycine, and potassium glycine, with sodium glycine and potassium glycine being preferred.

[0095] Preferably, the amino acid type compound is glycine.

[0096] The total content of amino acid type compounds present in the composition according to the invention is at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, which may range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.7% to 8% by weight and better still from 0.8% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0097] In particular, the total content of aminocarboxylic acid type compounds in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.7% to 8% by weight and better still from 0.8% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0098] More preferably, the total content of amino acid type compounds selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, and their salts and mixtures thereof in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.7% to 8% by weight, and even better from 0.8% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0099] In particular, the total content of amino acid type compounds selected from glycine, its salts and mixtures thereof may range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.7% to 8% by weight and better still from 0.8% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0100] More preferably, the glycine content in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.7% to 8% by weight, and even better from 0.8% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0101] Hydroxy(poly)carboxylic acids Composition B according to the invention also comprises one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms and / or their salts.

[0102] These (poly)acids are different from the amino acid type compounds mentioned above.

[0103] The (poly)acids contain at least one COOH group (in the form of an acid or a salt); they may contain several, in particular at least two COOH groups (in the form of an acid or a salt), better still 2 to 3 COOH groups (in the form of an acid or a salt).

[0104] They also contain at least one OH group, but may contain several hydroxyl groups, in particular 2-3 types of OH groups.

[0105] Preferably, they contain a total of 4 to 6 carbon atoms and their hydrocarbon-based chains are saturated and linear.

[0106] Advantageously, the hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids and / or their salts contain in total 4 to 6 carbon atoms, 1 to 3 OH groups and 2 to 3 COOH groups (in acid or salt form).

[0107] The salts of these (poly)acids include salts with organic or inorganic bases, such as alkali metal salts, for example lithium, sodium or potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts, for example magnesium or calcium salts, and zinc salts. The alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts are preferred, in particular the sodium salts.

[0108] Preferably, the hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acid or its salt is selected from α-hydroxy acids and their salts, in particular lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid and their salts, in particular the alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts; most in particular citric acid and / or tartaric acid and their salts, in particular the alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, such as sodium citrate and / or sodium tartrate; and even better still citric acid or its salts, in particular the alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, such as sodium citrate.

[0109] Preferably, the total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids containing in total from 2 to 8 carbon atoms and / or salts thereof present in the composition according to the invention is at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, which may range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 1% to 8% by weight and better still from 1.5% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0110] In particular, the total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids containing 4 to 6 carbon atoms, 1 to 3 OH groups and 2 or 3 COOH groups, or salts thereof, may range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 1% to 8% by weight and better still from 1.5% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0111] In particular, the total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids chosen from lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid, and their salts, in particular the alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 1% to 8% by weight and better still from 1.5% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0112] More preferably, the content of citric acid and / or salts thereof in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 1% to 8% by weight, and even better from 1.5% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0113] Associative Polymers Composition B used according to the invention may contain one or more associative polymers. Preferably, the associative polymers are non-ionic.

[0114] For the purposes of this specification, the term "polymer" means any compound derived from the polymerization by polycondensation or radical polymerization of monomers, at least one of which is a monomer other than an alkylene oxide, with a monofunctional compound of formula RX, where R is optionally a hydroxylated C 10 ~C 30 and X represents a carboxylic acid, an amine, an amide, a hydroxyl or an ester group. Specifically excluded are all compounds resulting solely from the simple condensation of an alkylene oxide with a fatty alcohol, a fatty ester, a fatty acid, a fatty amide, or a fatty amine.

[0115] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "associative polymer" refers to an amphiphilic polymer capable of reversibly associating with itself or with other molecules in an aqueous medium, and which usually contains within its chemical structure at least one hydrophilic region or group and at least one hydrophobic region or group.

[0116] The associative polymers according to the invention are polymers which contain at least one fatty chain containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and whose molecules are capable of bonding with each other or with molecules of other compounds in the formulation medium. Preferably, the fatty chains contain from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0117] A special case of associative polymers are amphiphilic polymers, i.e., polymers that contain one or more hydrophilic moieties or groups that make them water-soluble and one or more hydrophobic regions or groups (including at least one fatty chain) through which the polymers interact and assemble with each other or with other molecules.

[0118] The term "hydrophobic group" means a group or polymer containing a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, which may contain one or more heteroatoms such as P, O, N or S, or a group containing a perfluoro or silicone chain. When referring to a hydrocarbon-based group, the hydrophobic group contains at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 30 carbon atoms, preferentially 18 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferentially, the hydrocarbon-based hydrophobic group is derived from a monofunctional compound. By way of example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, decyl alcohol, or from a polyalkylenated fatty alcohol such as steareth-100. It may also denote a hydrocarbon-based polymer (for example polybutadiene).

[0119] For the purposes of this specification, the term "fatty chain" means a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl chain containing at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and better still 10 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0120] For the purposes of this specification, the term "fatty compound", such as a fatty alcohol, a fatty acid or a fatty amide, means a compound which comprises in its main chain at least one saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain, such as an alkyl or alkenyl chain, containing at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and better still from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0121] Among the anionic associative polymers, mention may in particular be made of the following:

[0122] (A) those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty chain allyl ether unit, more particularly: those in which the hydrophilic units are constituted by ethylenically unsaturated anionic monomers, more particularly vinyl carboxylic acids, most particularly acrylic acid or methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof; and The fatty chain allyl ether unit has the following formula (I'): CH 2 =C(R')-CH 2 Alumni n R (Wherein, R' is H or CH 3 where B represents an ethyleneoxy group, n is in the range of 0 to 100, and R represents a hydrocarbon-based group selected from alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl and cycloalkyl groups containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more particularly 12 to 18 carbon atoms. Preferably, R' represents H, n=10 and R represents stearyl (C 18 ) group.

[0123] Among these anionic associative polymers, in particular, polymers formed from 20% to 60% by mass of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, 5% to 60% by mass of C1 to C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate, 2% to 50% by mass of the fatty chain allyl ether of formula (I'), and 0% to 1% by mass of a crosslinker which is preferably a copolymerizable polyethylenically unsaturated monomer such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, or methylene bisacrylamide are preferred.

[0124] Most particularly preferred is a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and polyethylene glycol (EO10) stearyl alcohol ether (steareth-10), in particular the product sold under the name Salcare SC80 by the company BASF, which is a 30% aqueous emulsion of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and steareth-10 allyl ether (40 / 50 / 10) having the INCI name Steareth-10 Allyl Ether / Acrylates Copolymer.

[0125] - (B) at least one hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type and (C 10 ~C 30 ) alkyl ester hydrophobic units.

[0126] These polymers preferably contain hydrophilic units of the unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type of formula (II): [ka] (In the formula, R 1 is H or CH 3 Or C 2 H 5 (representing the unsaturated carboxylic acid type) monomers, 10 ~C 30 ) The hydrophobic unit of the alkyl ester is represented by the following formula (III): [ka] (In the formula, R 2 is H, CH 3 or C2H 5 R 3 is C 10 ~C 30 , preferably C 12 ~C 22 The alkyl group is selected from those corresponding to the monomers represented by the formula:

[0127] The unsaturated carboxylic acid (C 10 ~C 30 ) Alkyl esters include, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate, and dodecyl acrylate and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate, and dodecyl methacrylate.

[0128] Among these anionic associative polymers, in particular the following monomers: (i) (meth)acrylic acid, (ii) esters of formula (III) as described above, R 2 is H or CH 3 R 3 represents an alkyl group containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and optionally (iii) a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylenically unsaturated monomer, such as a polymer obtained by polymerizing a mixture of diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, and methylene bisacrylamide, is used.

[0129] Among these types of anionic associative polymers, in particular, those containing 95% by mass to 60% by mass of (meth)acrylic acid and 4% by mass to 40% by mass of C 10 ~C 30 Consisting of alkyl acrylate and 0% to 6% by mass of a cross-linkable polymerizable monomer, or 98% to 96% by mass of (meth)acrylic acid, 1% to 4% by mass of C 10 ~C30 It is preferable that the composition is composed of an alkyl acrylate and 0.1% to 0.6% by mass of, for example, the above-mentioned cross-linking polymerizable monomer.

[0130] Mention may in particular be made of the products sold by the company Lubrizol under the trade names Pemulen TR1, Pemulen TR2, Carbopol 1382, Carbopol ETD2020, Carbopol Ultrez 20, Carbopol Ultrez 21, having the INCI name Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, and more preferably Pemulen TR1 and Carbopol 1382.

[0131] - (C) Maleic anhydride / C 30 ~C 38 α-Olefin / alkylmaleate terpolymers, e.g., maleic anhydride / C 30 ~C 38 α-Olefin / isopropyl maleate copolymers, in particular the product sold under the name Performa V 1608 by the company Newphase Technologies (INCI name: C30-38 Olefin / Isopropyl Maleate / MA Copolymer).

[0132] - (D) an acrylic terpolymer comprising (a) 20% by weight to 70% by weight of an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid, (b) 20% by weight to 80% by weight of a non-surface-active α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated monomer other than (a), and (c) 0.5% by weight to 60% by weight of a nonionic monourethane that is the reaction product of a monohydric surfactant with a monoethylenically unsaturated monoisocyanate.

[0133] Mention may in particular be made of ethoxylated (EO40) behenyl alcohol terpolymers of methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / dimethyl (meth-isopropenyl) benzyl isocyanate, in particular a 25% aqueous dispersion, such as the product Viscophobe DB1000 sold by Amerchol (Dow Chemical), having the INC name Polyacrylate-3.

[0134] (E) Among those monomers, (i) α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids, such as acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, and (ii) α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids, in particular acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, and fatty alcohols, in particular C 8 ~C 32 Copolymers comprising esters of fatty alcohols, especially those which are oxyalkylenated, in particular those containing 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, especially 4 to 50, and even more particularly 10 to 40 EO.

[0135] In particular, mention may be made of behenyl or stearyl (meth)acrylates containing 10 to 40 EO, and in particular 18 to 30 EO, as monomers.

[0136] Preferentially, these compounds contain, as monomers, α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids and 1 ~C 4 Alcohol, especially C 1 ~C 4 Also includes esters with alkyl (meth)acrylates.

[0137] Preferably, these copolymers comprise at least one (meth)acrylic acid monomer, at least one C 1 ~C 4 an alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer, and at least one C 8 ~C 32 Alkyl (meth)acrylate monomers include those which are oxyethylenated and contain 2 to 100 moles of EO, particularly 4 to 50 EO, and more particularly 10 to 40 EO.

[0138] Mention may also be made, for example, of Aculyn 22 (INCI name: Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer), an oxyalkylenated methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / stearyl methacrylate terpolymer sold by Rohm and Haas, or Aculyn 28 (INCI name: Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer), an oxyalkylenated methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / behenyl methacrylate terpolymer sold by Rohm and Haas, and the Novethix L-10 polymer sold by Lubrizol.

[0139] (F) an associative polymer comprising at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer having a sulfonic acid in free form or in partially or fully neutralized form and comprising at least one hydrophobic moiety.

[0140] Among this type of polymers, mention may in particular be made of: - crosslinked or non-crosslinked, neutralized or non-neutralized copolymers comprising from 15% to 60% by weight, relative to the polymer, of AMPS (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid or its salts) units and from 40% to 85% by weight of (C8-C16) alkyl (meth)acrylate units, such as those described in EP-A-750899; - 10 mol% to 90 mol% of acrylamide units, 0.1 mol% to 10 mol% of AMPS units, and 5 mol% to 80 mol% of n-(C 6 ~C 8 ) alkylacrylamide units, such as those described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,089,578; - Copolymers of fully neutralized AMPS with dodecyl methacrylate and with AMPS and n-dodecyl methacrylamide, both non-crosslinked and crosslinked; copolymers composed of AMPS units and steareth-25 methacrylate units, such as Aristoflex HMS® (INCI name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Steareth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer) sold by Clariant, or copolymers composed of AMPS units and beheneth-25 methacrylate units, such as Aristoflex HMB (INCI name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer) sold by Clariant, or copolymers composed of AMPS units and steareth-8 methacrylate units, such as Aristoflex HMB sold by Clariant. SNC® (INCI Name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Steareth-8 Methacrylate Copolymer).

[0141] - (G) Associative polymers comprising at least one vinyl lactam monomer and at least one α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid monomer, such as vinylpyrrolidone, acrylic acid and C 1 ~C 20 Terpolymers of alkyl methacrylates, for example lauryl methacrylate, such as the product sold under the name Acrylidone® LM (INCI name: VP / Acrylates / LaurylMethacrylate Copolymer) by the company ISP.

[0142] Among the cationic associative polymers, mention may be made of: (A') a cationic associative polyurethane having the following general formula (Ia): RX-(P) n -[L-(Y) m ] r -L'-(P') p -X'-R' (In the formula, R and R' may be the same or different and represent a hydrophobic group or a hydrogen atom; X and X' may be the same or different and represent a group containing an amine functionality optionally bearing a hydrophobic group, or alternatively a group L''; L, L', and L'' may be the same or different and represent a group derived from a diisocyanate; P and P' may be the same or different and represent a group containing an amine functionality, optionally bearing a hydrophobic group; Y represents a hydrophilic group; r is an integer from 1 to 100 inclusive, preferably an integer from 1 to 50 inclusive, in particular an integer from 1 to 25 inclusive; n, m and p are each, independently of one another, 0 to 1000, inclusive; The molecule contains at least one protonated or quaternized amine functionality and at least one hydrophobic group.

[0143] Preferably, the only hydrophobic groups are the chain end groups R and R'.

[0144] One preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes corresponds to formula (Ia) above, R and R' both independently represent a hydrophobic group; X and X′ each represent a group L″; n and p are integers between 1 and 1000, inclusive; and L, L', L'', P, P', Y and m have the meanings given above.

[0145] Another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes corresponds to formula (Ia) above, n=p=0 (the polymer does not contain units derived from monomers containing amine functional groups that were incorporated into the polymer during polycondensation); The protonated amine functionality can be converted to alkylating groups by hydrolysis of the excess isocyanate functionality at the chain ends followed by alkylation with hydrophobic group-containing alkylating agents, i.e., compounds of type RQ or R'Q, where R and R' are as defined above and Q represents a leaving group such as a halide or sulfate.

[0146] Yet another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes corresponds to formula (Ia) R and R' both independently represent a hydrophobic group; X and X′ each independently represent a quaternary amine-containing group; n=p=0, and L, L', Y and m have the meanings given above.

[0147] The number average molecular weight (Mn) of the cationic associative polyurethane is preferably from 400 to 500,000 inclusive, in particular from 1,000 to 400,000 inclusive and ideally from 1,000 to 300,000 inclusive.

[0148] Preferentially, the hydrocarbon-based group is derived from a monofunctional compound.

[0149] By way of example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol, such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol. It may also represent a hydrocarbon-based polymer, such as polybutadiene.

[0150] When X and / or X′ represent a group containing a tertiary or quaternary amine, the group containing X and / or X′ may represent one of the following formulae: [ka] (In the formula, R 2represents a linear or branched alkylene group containing 1 to 20 carbon atoms and optionally containing a saturated or unsaturated ring or arylene group, one or more of the carbon atoms being possibly replaced by a heteroatom selected from N, S, O and P; R 1 and R 3 may be the same or different, and may be linear or branched C 1 ~C 30 represents an alkyl or alkenyl group or an aryl group, where at least one of the carbon atoms is possibly replaced by a heteroatom selected from N, S, O and P; A - is a physiologically acceptable anionic counterion such as a halide, e.g., chloride or bromide or mesylate).

[0151] The groups L, L' and L'' represent groups of the formula: [ka] (In the formula, Z represents -O-, -S- or -NH-; and R 4 represents a linear or branched alkylene group containing 1 to 20 carbon atoms and optionally containing a saturated or unsaturated ring or arylene group, one or more of the carbon atoms being possibly replaced by a heteroatom selected from N, S, O and P).

[0152] The groups P and P′ containing the amine functionality may represent at least one of the following formulae: [ka] (In the formula, R 5 and R 7 is the R defined above. 2 has the same meaning as R 6 , R 8 and R 9 is the R defined above. 1 and R 3 has the same meaning as R 10 represents a linear or branched, optionally unsaturated alkylene group possibly containing one or more heteroatoms selected from N, S, O and P, and A - is a physiologically acceptable anionic counterion such as a halide, e.g., chloride or bromide or mesylate).

[0153] With respect to the meaning of Y, the term "hydrophilic group" refers to a polymeric or non-polymeric water-soluble group.

[0154] By way of example, and not limitation, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol may be mentioned.

[0155] If it is a hydrophilic polymer, for example, polyethers, sulfonated polyesters and sulfonated polyamides, or mixtures of these polymers may be mentioned. The hydrophilic compound is preferably a polyether, in particular poly(ethylene oxide) or poly(propylene oxide).

[0156] The cationic associative polyurethanes of formula (Ia) according to the invention are formed from diisocyanates and from various compounds with a functionality containing a labile hydrogen. The functionality containing a labile hydrogen can be an alcohol, a primary or secondary amine or a thiol functionality, which, after reaction with the diisocyanate functionality, gives polyurethanes, polyureas and polythioureas, respectively. In the present invention, the term "polyurethane" encompasses these three types of polymers, namely polyurethanes, polyureas and polythioureas per se, as well as their copolymers.

[0157] The first type of compound involved in the preparation of polyurethanes of formula (Ia) is a compound that comprises at least one unit with amine functionality.This compound can be polyfunctional, but it is preferably difunctional, i.e. according to a preferred embodiment, it comprises two labile hydrogen atoms, for example resulting from hydroxyl, primary amine, secondary amine or thiol functionality.A mixture of polyfunctional and difunctional compounds may be used, with a low percentage of polyfunctional compounds.

[0158] As noted above, the compound may contain more than one unit containing amine functionality, in which case it is a polymer having repeating units containing amine functionality.

[0159] Compounds of this type may be represented by one of the following formulas: HZ-(P) n -ZH or HZ-(P') p -ZH, where Z, P, P', n and p are as defined above.

[0160] For example, N-methyldiethanolamine, N-tert-butyldiethanolamine and N-sulfoethyldiethanolamine may be mentioned.

[0161] The second compound involved in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) is a diisocyanate corresponding to the formula: O=C=NR 4 -N=C=O(in the formula, R 4 is as defined above).

[0162] By way of example, methylene diphenyl diisocyanate, methylene cyclohexane diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, tolylene diisocyanate, naphthalene diisocyanate, butane diisocyanate and hexane diisocyanate may be mentioned.

[0163] The third compound involved in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) is a hydrophobic compound intended to form the terminal hydrophobic group of the polymer of formula (Ia).

[0164] The compounds are composed of a hydrophobic group and a functionality containing a labile hydrogen, such as a hydroxyl, a primary or secondary amine, or a thiol functionality.

[0165] By way of example, this compound may be a fatty alcohol, such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol. If this compound comprises a polymer chain, it may be, for example, an α-hydroxylated polybutadiene.

[0166] The hydrophobic groups of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) may result from a quaternization reaction of the tertiary amine of a compound containing at least one tertiary amine unit. The hydrophobic groups are thus introduced through a quaternizing agent. The quaternizing agent is a compound of type RQ or R'Q, where R and R' are as defined above and Q represents a leaving group such as a halide, sulfate, etc.

[0167] The cationic associative polyurethane may contain a hydrophilic block. This block is provided by a fourth type of compound participating in the preparation of the polymer. This compound may be polyfunctional, preferably difunctional. It is also possible to have mixtures with a low percentage of polyfunctional compounds.

[0168] The functionalities containing a labile hydrogen are alcohol, primary or secondary amine or thiol functionalities. The compound may be a polymer terminated at the chain end by one of these functionalities containing a labile hydrogen.

[0169] By way of example, and not limitation, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol may be mentioned.

[0170] If it is a hydrophilic polymer, for example, polyethers, sulfonated polyesters and sulfonated polyamides, or mixtures of these polymers may be mentioned. The hydrophilic compound is preferably a polyether, in particular poly(ethylene oxide) or poly(propylene oxide).

[0171] The hydrophilic group designated Y in formula (Ia) is optional. In particular, units containing quaternary amine or protonated functionality may be sufficient to provide the required solubility or water dispersibility for the type of polymer in aqueous solution.

[0172] The presence of hydrophilic groups Y is optional; however, cationic associative polyurethanes containing such groups are preferred.

[0173] (B') quaternized cellulose derivatives, including in particular: - i) quaternized cellulose modified with at least one fatty chain, for example a linear or branched alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl, or linear or branched alkylaryl group containing at least 8 carbon atoms, or a group containing a mixture thereof; - ii) quaternized hydroxyethylcellulose modified with at least one fatty chain, for example a linear or branched alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl, or linear or branched alkylaryl group containing at least 8 carbon atoms, or a group containing a mixture thereof; - iii) hydroxyethyl cellulose of formula (Ib): [ka] (In the formula, R and R' may be the same or different and are ammonium groups -R a R b R c NQ - where R a , R b and R cmay be the same or different, and each represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C 1 ~C 30 , with priority given to C 1 ~C 20 represents an alkyl group, such as methyl or dodecyl; and Q - represents an anionic counterion, for example a halide, such as chloride or bromide; and n, x, and y may be the same or different and represent integers between 1 and 10,000.

[0174] The alkyl group carried by the quaternized cellulose or hydroxyethyl cellulose preferably contains 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl group preferably represents a phenyl group, a benzyl group, a naphthyl group or an anthryl group.

[0175] Also, C 8 ~C 30 Examples of quaternized alkyl hydroxyethylcelluloses with fatty chains include the product Quatrisoft LM 200® (INCI name: Polyquaternium-24) sold by Amerchol / Dow Chemical, as well as the products Crodacel QM® (INCI name: PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose cocodimonium chloride), Crodacel QL® (INCI name: PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose cocodimonium chloride) and Crodacel QL® (INCI name: PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose cocodimonium chloride) sold by Croda. 12 alkyl) (INCI name: PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose lauryldimonium chloride) and Crodacel QS® (C 18 alkyl) (INCI name: PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose stearyldimonium chloride).

[0176] R represents trimethylammonium halide and R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium halide, more preferably R represents trimethylammonium chloride, CH 3 ) 3 N + Cl - and R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium chloride (CH 3 ) 2 (C 12 H 25 )N + Cl - There may also be mentioned hydroxyethyl celluloses of formula (Ib), which represent: Polymers of this type are known under the trade name Softcat Polymer SL®, such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30, SL-5, etc., with the INCI name Polyquaternium-67 from Amerchol / Dow Chemical.

[0177] More specifically, the polymer of formula (Ib) has a viscosity of 2000-3000 cPs, inclusive. Preferably, the viscosity is 2700-2800 cPs, inclusive. Typically, Softcat Polymer SL-5 has a viscosity of 2500 cPs, Softcat Polymer SL-30 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs, Softcat Polymer SL-60 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs, and Softcat Polymer SL-100 has a viscosity of 2800 cPs.

[0178] (C') cationic polyvinyllactams, in particular those which contain: a) at least one monomer of the vinyllactam or alkylvinyllactam type; - b) at least one monomer of structure (Ic) or (IIc) below: [ka] (In the formula, X represents an oxygen atom or an NR6 group; R 1 and R 6are each independently a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C 1 ~C 5 represents an alkyl group, R 2 is linear or branched C 1 ~C 4 represents an alkyl group; R 3 , R 4 and R 5 are each independently a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C 1 ~C 30 an alkyl group, or a group represented by formula (IIIc): -(Y 2 ) r -(CH 2 -CH(R 7 )-O) x -R 8 (lllc) During the ceremony, - Y, Y 1 and Y 2 are each independently a linear or branched C 2 ~C 16 represents an alkylene group, R 7 is a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C 1 ~C 4 Alkyl group, or linear or branched C 1 ~C 4 represents a hydroxyalkyl group, R 8 is a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C 1 ~C 30 represents an alkyl group; p, q and r independently of one another represent the value 0 or the value 1, m and n are each independently an integer ranging from 0 to 100, inclusive; x represents an integer ranging from 1 to 100, inclusive; Z represents an anionic counterion of an organic or inorganic acid, for example a halide, such as chloride or bromide or mesylate; however: - substituent R 3 , R 4 , R 5 or R8 At least one of the linear or branched C 9 ~C 30 represents an alkyl group, - if m or n is non-zero, q is equal to 1; - if m or n is equal to zero, then p or q is equal to 0).

[0179] The cationic poly(vinyl lactam) polymers according to the present invention may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked and may be block polymers.

[0180] Preferably, the counterion Z of the monomer of formula (Ic) - is selected from a halide ion, a phosphate ion, a methosulfate ion and a tosylate ion.

[0181] Preferably, R 3 , R 4 and R 5 are each independently a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C 1 ~C 30 Indicates an alkyl group.

[0182] More preferably, monomer b) is a monomer of formula (Ic), wherein m and n are preferably equal to 0.

[0183] The vinyl lactam or alkyl vinyl lactam monomer preferably has the structure (IVc): [ka] (In the formula, s represents an integer ranging from 3 to 6; R 9 is a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C 1 ~C 5 R represents an alkyl group. 10 is a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C 1 ~C 5 The alkyl group R 9 and R 10 at least one of which represents a hydrogen atom.

[0184] More preferably, monomer (IVc) is vinylpyrrolidone.

[0185] The cationic poly(vinyl lactam) polymers according to the present invention may contain one or more additional monomers, preferably cationic or non-ionic monomers.

[0186] Particularly preferred compounds include at least the following terpolymers: a) one monomer of formula (IVc), b) p = 1, q = 0, and R 3 and R 4 are each independently a hydrogen atom or C 1 ~C 5 R5 represents a linear or branched alkyl group; 9 ~C 24 one monomer of formula (Ic), which represents an alkyl group, and c)R 3 and R 4 are each independently a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C 1 ~C 5 One monomer of formula (IIc), showing an alkyl group.

[0187] More preferably, a terpolymer is used which comprises 40% to 95% by weight of monomer (a), 0.1% to 55% by weight of monomer (c) and 0.25% to 50% by weight of monomer (b). Such polymers are particularly described in WO 00 / 68282.

[0188] As cationic poly(vinyl lactam) polymers according to the invention, in particular the following are used: - Vinylpyrrolidone / Dimethylaminopropyl Methacrylamide / Dodecyl Dimethyl Methacrylamidopropyl Ammonium Tosylate Terpolymer, - Vinylpyrrolidone / Dimethylaminopropyl Methacrylamide / Cocoyl Dimethyl Methacrylamidopropyl Ammonium Tosylate Terpolymer, - Vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide / lauryldimethylmethacrylamidopropyl ammonium tosylate or chloride terpolymer.

[0189] Vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide / lauryldimethylmethylacrylamidopropylammonium chloride terpolymers are sold especially under the names Styleze W10® and Styleze W20L® (INCI name: Polyquaternium-55) by the company ISP.

[0190] The mass average molecular weight (Mw) of the cationic poly(vinyl lactam) polymer is preferably between 500 and 20 million, more particularly between 200,000 and 2 million,000,000 and preferentially between 400,000 and 800,000.

[0191] (D') cationic polymers obtained by polymerization of a monomer mixture comprising one or more vinyl monomers substituted by one or more amino groups, one or more hydrophobic nonionic vinyl monomers and one or more associative vinyl monomers, such as those described in WO 2004 / 024779.

[0192] Among these polymers are mentioned the products resulting from the polymerization of monomer mixtures comprising: - Ji (C 1 ~C 4 Alkyl)amino(C 1 ~C 6 (alkyl) methacrylate, - C of one or more (meth)acrylic acids 1 ~C 30 Alkyl esters, - Polyethoxylated C 10 ~C 30 Alkyl methacrylate (20 to 25 moles of ethylene oxide units), - 30 / 5 polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol allyl ether, - Hydroxy (C 2 ~C 6 (alkyl) methacrylates, and - Ethylene glycol dimethacrylate.

[0193] Such a polymer is, for example, the compound sold under the name Carbopol Aqua CC® by the company Lubrizol and which corresponds to the INCI name Polyacrylate-1 Crosspolymer.

[0194] The non-ionic associative polymers, alone or in mixtures, are preferably chosen from:

[0195] (1) at least one fatty acid chain, particularly C 8 ~C 32 , or even better, C 14 ~C 28 Cellulose modified with alkyl-containing groups; preferably - at least one fatty chain, especially C 8 ~C 32 , or even better, C 14 ~C 28 Hydroxyethylcellulose modified with an alkyl-containing group, such as an alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl group, or a mixture thereof, wherein the alkyl group is preferably C 8 ~C 22 For example, Natrosol Plus Grade 330CS (C 16 alkyl), or cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose sold under the name Polysurf 67CS sold by Ashland Corporation; - hydroxyethylcellulose modified with polyalkylene glycol alkylphenol ether groups, such as the product Amercell Polymer HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol (15) nonylphenol ether) sold by the company Amerchol; - and mixtures thereof.

[0196] (2) at least one fatty acid chain, especially C 8 ~C 32 , or even better, C 14 ~C 28 Hydroxypropyl guar modified with alkyl-containing groups, e.g. Esaflor HM22 (C 22 alkyl chain), and RE210-18 (C 14 alkyl chain) and RE205-1(C 20 alkyl chain).

[0197] (3) Vinylpyrrolidone and fatty chain hydrophobic monomers, especially C 8 ~C 32 , or even better, C 14 ~C 28 Copolymers with alkyls, examples include: - vinylpyrrolidone / hexadecene copolymers, in particular the products Antaron V216 or Ganex V216 sold by the company ISP; - vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene copolymers, in particular the products Antaron V220 or Ganex V220 sold by the company ISP.

[0198] (4) C 1 ~C 6 Alkyl methacrylate or acrylate and at least one fatty chain, in particular C 8 ~C 32 , or even better, C 14 ~C 28Copolymers with amphoteric monomers containing alkyl chains, for example the oxyethylenated methyl acrylate / stearyl acrylate copolymer sold under the name Antil 208 by the company Goldschmidt.

[0199] (5) Hydrophilic methacrylate or acrylate and at least one fatty chain, in particular C 8 ~C 32 , or even better, C 14 ~C 28 Copolymers with hydrophobic monomers containing alkyl chains, for example polyethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer.

[0200] (6) Polyurethane polyethers which contain in the chain both hydrophilic blocks, usually of a polyoxyethylenated nature, and hydrophobic blocks which may be solely aliphatic sequences and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic sequences.

[0201] (7) at least one fatty acid chain, particularly C 8 ~C 32 , or even better, C 14 ~C 28 Polymers containing an alkyl-bearing aminoplast ether backbone, such as the Pure Thix compounds sold by Sud-Chemie.

[0202] Preferably, the polyurethane polyether comprises at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms separated by a hydrophilic block, the hydrocarbon-based chains being optionally side chains or chains at the ends of the hydrophilic block. In particular, it is also possible to envisage one or more pendant chains. In addition, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon-based chain at one or both ends of the hydrophilic block.

[0203] The polyurethane polyethers can be multiblock, and in particular triblock, in form. The hydrophobic blocks can be present at each end of the chain (for example, triblock copolymers that carry a hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (for example, multiblock copolymers). These same polymers can also be graft polymers or star polymers.

[0204] The fatty chain non-ionic polyurethane polyethers may be triblock copolymers, the hydrophilic blocks of which are polyoxyethylene chains containing 50 to 1000 oxyethylenated groups. As the name suggests, the non-ionic polyurethane polyethers contain urethane bonds between the hydrophilic blocks.

[0205] By extension, the term also includes non-ionic fatty chain polyurethane polyethers in which the hydrophilic block is bonded to the lipophilic block via another chemical bond.

[0206] Examples of non-ionic fatty chain polyurethane polyethers that can be used in the present invention include Rheolate 205® or Rheolate® 208, 204 or 212, which contain urea groups, sold by the company Rheox, as well as Acrysol RM 184®. 12 ~C 14 Elfacos T210, which contains alkyl chains, and C 18 Also mentioned is the product Elfacos T212, which contains alkyl chains. C 20 The product DW 1206B®, which contains alkyl chains and urethane bonds, is also used.

[0207] In particular, solutions or dispersions of these polymers in water or in a water / alcohol medium may also be used. As examples of such polymers, mention may be made of Rheolate® 255, Rheolate® 278 and Rheolate® 244 sold by the company Rheox. The products DW 1206F and DW 1206J sold by the company Roehm & Haas may also be used.

[0208] Polyurethane polyethers which may be used according to the invention are in particular those described in G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen-Colloid Polym. Sci. 271, 380.389 (1993).

[0209] It is even more particularly preferable to use polyurethane polyethers obtainable by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol containing between 150 and 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.

[0210] Polyether polyurethanes of this type are sold, in particular, by the company Röhm & Haas under the names Aculyn 46® and Aculyn 44® (Aculyn 46® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol and methylenebis(4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI), at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); Aculyn 44® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylenebis(4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%)).

[0211] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more non-ionic associative polymers, preferentially chosen from polyurethane polyethers.

[0212] Preferably, the associative polymer is present in the composition in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight and even more preferentially from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0213] Preferably, the nonionic associative polymer is present in the composition in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight and even more preferentially from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0214] Preferably, the nonionic associative polymers chosen from polyether polyurethanes are present in the composition in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight and even more preferentially from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0215] silicone Composition B used according to the invention may optionally contain one or more silicones which may in particular be chosen from aminosilicones, non-aminosilicones and mixtures thereof.

[0216] Thus, the composition according to the invention may comprise one or more non-amino silicones, which may be solid or liquid, preferably liquid (25° C., 1 atm), and volatile or non-volatile.

[0217] The non-amino silicones which can be used may be soluble or insoluble in the compositions according to the invention and they may be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums, with silicone oils and gums being preferred.

[0218] Silicones, inter alia, are described in detail in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press.

[0219] Volatile silicones are those having a boiling point between 60° C. and 260° C. (at atmospheric pressure) and can in particular be chosen from: i) Cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing 3 to 7, preferably 4 to 5, silicon atoms, such as - Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4) and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5), products sold under the name Volatile Silicone 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione 70045 V 2 by Rhodia, Volatile Silicone 7158 by Union Carbide or Silbione 70045 V 5 by Rhodia; - cyclic copolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type having the following chemical structure: [ka] Mention may be made of Volatile Silicone FZ 3109 sold by Union Carbide. - mixtures of cyclic silicones with silicon-based organic compounds, such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and 1,1'-oxy(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)bisneopentane; ii) Generally, the viscosity at 25°C is 5 x 10 -6 m 2 / s or less, such as decamethyltetrasiloxane, containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms.

[0220] Other silicones belonging to this category are described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 76, pages 27-32 - Todd&Byers Volatile silicone fluids for cosmetics, and mention may be made of the product sold under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone.

[0221] Among the non-volatile silicones, mention may be made of polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS or dimethicone), polydiarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, either alone or in mixtures, and also non-aminoorganopolysiloxanes (or organomodified polysiloxanes or alternatively organomodified silicones) which comprise in their structure one or more non-amino organofunctional groups, preferably chosen from aryl groups, alkoxy groups and polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene groups, generally linked via hydrocarbon-based groups.

[0222] The organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes modified with the organofunctional groups mentioned above. The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are in particular selected from linear and / or branched polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes.

[0223] Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of organopolysiloxanes, including: - Optionally C 6 ~C 24 polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene groups containing alkyl groups; for example dimethicone copolyols, in particular those sold under the name DC 1248 by Dow Corning or the oils Silwet® L722, L7500, L77 and L711 from Union Carbide; or (C 12) alkylmethicone copolyols, in particular those sold under the name Q2 5200 by Dow Corning; - thiol groups, for example the products sold under the names GP72A and GP71 by Genesee; alkoxylated groups; for example, the products sold under the names Silicone Copolymer F-755 by SWS Silicones and Abil Wax® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company Goldschmidt; - hydroxylated groups; for example polyorganosiloxanes with hydroxyalkyl groups; acyloxyalkyl groups; for example the polyorganosiloxanes described in US Pat. No. 4,957,732; anionic groups of carboxylic acid type, such as those described in EP 186507; or anionic groups of alkyl carboxylic acid type, such as the product X-22-3701E from Shin-Etsu; or anionic groups of 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate or 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulfate type, such as the products sold under the names Abil® S201 and Abil® S255 by Goldschmidt.

[0224] The silicones may also be chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups (CTFA: dimethicone). Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made of the following commercial products: - Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, such as 70 047 V 500 000 oil; - Mirasil® series oils sold by Rhodia; - 200 series oils from Dow Corning, e.g. 60000mm 2DC200 with a viscosity of / s; - Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF series from General Electric (SF 96, SF 18).

[0225] Also included are polydimethylsiloxanes having dimethylsilanol end groups, known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the 48 series oils from Rhodia.

[0226] Polydialkylsiloxanes in this category also include products sold under the names Abil Wax® 9800 and 9801 by Goldschmidt, which are poly(C1-C20) dialkylsiloxanes.

[0227] More specific products that can be used in accordance with the present invention are mixtures such as: - Polydimethylsiloxanes with hydroxyl groups at the chain ends, i.e. mixtures produced from dimethiconol (CTFA) and from cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes, also known as cyclomethicone (CTFA), such as the product Q2-1401 sold by Dow Corning.

[0228] Polyalkylarylsiloxanes have a viscosity of 1×10 at 25°C. -5 ~5×10 -2 m 2 The copolymer is selected from linear and / or branched polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes, the copolymers being in the range of 0.1 to 0.1 / s.

[0229] Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, mention may be made of the products sold under the following names: - Silbione® oils of the 70 641 series from Rhodia; - Rhodorsil® oils 70633 and 763 series from Rhodia; - Dow Corning Oil Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid; - Silicones of the PK series from Bayer, for example product PK20; - PN and PH series silicones from Bayer, e.g. products PN1000 and PH1000; - Certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

[0230] Non-amino silicones which are particularly preferred according to the invention are polydimethylsiloxanes having trimethylsilyl end groups (CTFA: dimethicone).

[0231] The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more aminosilicones.

[0232] The term "aminosilicone" refers to any silicone that contains at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine, or quaternary ammonium group.

[0233] The aminosilicones that may be used according to the invention may be volatile or non-volatile, may be cyclic, linear or branched, and preferably have a viscosity of 5×10 at 25° C. -6 ~2.5m 2 / s, e.g. 1×10 -5 ~1m 2 / s range.

[0234] Preferably, the aminosilicones are chosen, alone or in mixtures, from the following compounds: A) Polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (I): [ka] (wherein x' and y' are integers such that the mass average molecular weight (Mw) is 5,000 to 500,000 g / mol); B) Aminosilicones corresponding to formula (II): R' a G 3-a -Si(OSiG 2 ) n -(OSiG b R' 2-b ) m -O-SiG 3-a -R' a (II) (In the formula, G is the same or different and is a hydrogen atom or a phenyl, OH, C 1 ~C 8 Alkyl, e.g., methyl or C 1 ~C 8 represents an alkoxy, e.g. a methoxy group; a and a', which may be identical or different, denote 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, with the proviso that at least one of a and a' is equal to 0; b represents 0 or 1, in particular 1, - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n+m) ranges from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, where n optionally represents a number from 0 to 1999, in particular from 49 to 149, and m optionally represents a number from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10; and R', which may be identical or different, represents a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL, where q is a number ranging from 2 to 8, and L is the following radical: -NR''-QN(R'') 2 , -N(R'') 2 , -N + (R'') 3 A - , -N + H(R'') 2 A - , -N + H 2 (R'')A - , -NR''-QN + (R'')H 2 A - , -NR''-QN + (R'') 2 HA - and -NR''-QN + (R'') 3 A -where R″ may be the same or different and is hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based group, such as C 1 ~C 20 represents an alkyl group; Q represents a group of the formula CrH 2 A- denotes a linear or branched group of r, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A- denotes a cosmetically acceptable anion, especially a halide, such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

[0235] Preferably, the aminosilicone of formula (II) is selected from:

[0236] (i) "Trimethylsilylamodimethicone" silicones according to formula (III): [ka] (wherein m and n are numbers whose sum (n+m) varies from 1 to 2000, preferably from 20 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 600, and better still from 50 to 150; n can represent a number from 0 to 1999, in particular from 49 to 149; and m can represent a number from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10).

[0237] (ii) a silicone of formula (IV): [ka] (In the formula, - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n+m) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250, more particularly from 100 to 200; n represents a number from 0 to 999, in particular from 49 to 249, more particularly from 125 to 175, and m represents a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, more particularly from 1 to 5; and - R 1 , R 2 and R 3 may be the same or different, and are hydroxyl or C 1 ~C 4 represents an alkoxy group, R 1 ~R3 At least one of the groups represents an alkoxy group.

[0238] Preferably, the alkoxy group is a methoxy group.

[0239] The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio is preferably in the range of 0.2:1 to 0.4:1, preferably 0.25:1 to 0.35:1, more particularly 0.3:1.

[0240] The mass average molecular weight (Mw) of these silicones is preferably in the range of 2000 to 1,000,000 g / mol, more particularly 3500 to 200,000 g / mol.

[0241] (iii) a silicone of formula (V): [ka] (In the formula, - p and q are numbers such that the sum (p+q) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350, more particularly from 150 to 250; p denotes a number from 0 to 999, in particular from 49 to 349, more particularly from 159 to 239, and q denotes a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, more particularly from 1 to 5; and - R 1 and R 2 is different from hydroxyl or C 1 ~C 4 represents an alkoxy group, R 1 Group or R 2 At least one of the groups represents an alkoxy group.

[0242] Preferably, the alkoxy group is a methoxy group.

[0243] The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio is generally in the range of 1:0.8 to 1:1.1, preferably in the range of 1:0.9 to 1:1, and more particularly 1:0.95.

[0244] The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone is preferably in the range from 2000 to 200000 g / mol, more preferentially from 5000 to 100000 g / mol and in particular from 10000 to 50000 g / mol.

[0245] Commercially available products containing silicones of structure (IV) or (V) may contain one or more other aminosilicones in their compositions, the structure of which is different from formula (IV) or (V). A product containing aminosilicones of structure (IV) is sold by Wacker under the name Belsil ADM 652. A product containing aminosilicones of structure (V) is sold by Wacker under the name Fluid WR 1300. Another product containing aminosilicones of structure (XIV) is sold by Wacker under the name Belsil ADM LOG1.

[0246] When these aminosilicones are used, a particularly advantageous embodiment involves their use in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion may contain one or more surfactants. The surfactants may be of any nature, but are preferably cationic and / or non-ionic. The number-average particle size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nm. Preferably, especially as aminosilicones of formula (V), microemulsions are used whose average particle size ranges from 5 nm to 60 nm (limits included), more particularly from 10 nm to 50 nm (limits included). Thus, according to the invention, it is possible to utilize aminosilicone microemulsions of formula (E) sold under the name Finish CT 96 E (registered trademark) or SLM 28020 (registered trademark) by the company Wacker.

[0247] (iv) a silicone of formula (VI): [ka] (In the formula, - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n+m) ranges from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n being a number from 0 to 1999, in particular from 49 to 149, and m being a number from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10; and - A represents a linear or branched alkylene group containing 4 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably 4 carbon atoms. This group is preferably linear.

[0248] The mass average molecular weight (Mw) of these silicones is preferably in the range of 2000 to 1,000,000 g / mol, more particularly 3500 to 200,000 g / mol.

[0249] A silicone corresponding to this formula is, for example, Xiameter MEM 8299 Emulsion from Dow Corning.

[0250] (v) a silicone of formula (VII): [ka] (In the formula, - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n+m) ranges from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, where n optionally represents a number from 0 to 1999, in particular from 49 to 149, and m optionally represents a number from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10; and - A represents a linear or branched alkylene group containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably 4 carbon atoms. This group is preferably branched.

[0251] The mass average molecular weight (Mw) of these silicones is preferably in the range of 500 to 1,000,000 g / mol, more particularly 1,000 to 200,000 g / mol.

[0252] A silicone corresponding to this formula is, for example, DC2-8566 Amino Fluid from Dow Corning.

[0253] C) Silicone corresponding to formula (VIII): [ka] (In the formula, - R 5 is a monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular C 1 ~C 18 Alkyl or C 2 ~C 18 represents an alkenyl group, for example methyl; - R 6 is a divalent hydrocarbon group bonded to silicon via a SiC bond, especially C 1 ~C 18 Alkylene group or divalent C 1 ~C 18 , for example C 1 ~C 8 represents an alkyleneoxy group; - Q - is an anion, such as a halide ion, especially chloride, or an organic acid salt, especially acetate; - r represents a statistical mean value ranging from 2 to 20, especially from 2 to 8; and - s represents a statistical mean value ranging from 20 to 200, especially 20 to 50).

[0254] D) Quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (IX): [ka] (In the formula, - R 7 may be the same or different and are monovalent hydrocarbon radicals containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular C 1 ~C 18 Alkyl group, C 2 ~C 18 represents an alkenyl group or a ring containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl; - R 6 is a divalent hydrocarbon group bonded to silicon via a SiC bond, especially C 1 ~C 18 Alkylene group or divalent C1 ~C 18 , for example C 1 ~C 8 represents an alkyleneoxy group; - R 8 may be the same or different and are a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon group containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular C 1 ~C 18 Alkyl group, C 2 ~C 18 Alkenyl group or -R 6 -NHCOR 7 Represents the group; - X- is an anion, such as a halide ion, especially chloride, or an organic acid salt, especially acetate; and - r represents a statistical mean value ranging from 2 to 200, especially 5 to 100).

[0255] These silicones are described, for example, in European Patent Application EP-A-0530974; mention may in particular be made of the silicone having the INCI name: Quaternium 80.

[0256] Silicones belonging to this category are those sold under the names Abil Quat 3270, Abil Quat 3272 and Abil Quat 3474 by the company Goldschmidt.

[0257] E) Aminosilicones of formula (X): [ka] (In the formula, - R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 may be the same or different, C 1 ~C 4 represents an alkyl group or a phenyl group, - R 5 is C 1 ~C 4 represents an alkyl group or a hydroxyl group, - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5; m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5; - x is selected so that the amine number is in the range of 0.01-1 meq / g).

[0258] F) Multiblock polyoxyalkylenated aminosilicones of the (AB)n type, where A is a polysiloxane block and B is a polyoxyalkylenated block containing at least one amine group.

[0259] The silicone is preferably formed from repeat units having the following general formula: [-(SiMe 2 O) x Sim 2 -RN(R'')-R'-O(C 2 H 4 O) a (C 3 H 6 O) b -R'-N(H)-R-, or [-(SiMe 2 O) x Sim 2 -RN(R'')-R'-O(C 2 H 4 O) a (C 3 H 6 O) b -] (In the formula, - a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200, more particularly from 10 to 100; - b is an integer ranging from 0 to 200, preferably from 4 to 100, more particularly from 5 to 30; - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10000, more particularly from 10 to 5000; - R" is a hydrogen atom or methyl; R is a linear or branched divalent C, which may be identical or different, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms, such as oxygen. 2 ~C 12represents a hydrocarbon-based group; preferably, R, which may be the same or different, is an ethylene group, a linear or branched propylene group, a linear or branched butylene group or a CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 CH(OH)CH 2 - group; preferentially, R is CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 CH(OH)CH 2 - group; and R' is a linear or branched divalent C alkyl group, which may be identical or different, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms, such as oxygen. 2 ~C 12 represents a hydrocarbon-based group; preferably, R', which may be the same or different, is an ethylene group, a linear or branched propylene group, a linear or branched butylene group or a CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 CH(OH)CH 2 - group; preferentially, R' is -CH(CH 3 )-CH 2 -).

[0260] The siloxane blocks preferably represent from 50 mol % to 95 mol %, more particularly from 70 mol % to 85 mol %, relative to the total mass of silicones.

[0261] The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2, in a 30% solution of copolymer in dipropylene glycol.

[0262] The mass average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone is preferably 5,000 to 1,000,000 g / mol, more particularly 10,000 to 200,000 g / mol.

[0263] Mention may especially be made of the silicones sold by Momentive under the names Silsoft A-843 or Silsoft A+.

[0264] G) Aminosilicones of formula (XI) and (XII): [ka] (In the formula, R, R' and R'' may be the same or different; C 1 ~C 4 represents an alkyl group or a hydroxyl group, - A is C 3 represents an alkylene group; and - m and n are numbers such that the mass average molecular weight of the compound is 5000 to 500000); [ka] (In the formula, - x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably, x ranges from 10 to 2000, more preferentially from 100 to 1000; preferably, y ranges from 1 to 100; - R 1 and R 2 may be identical or different, preferably identical, and represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferentially from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; and - A represents a linear or branched alkylene group containing 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0265] Preferably, A contains 3 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferentially 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched. In particular, the following divalent radicals: -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 - and -CH 2 CH(CH 3 )CH 2 - may be mentioned.

[0266] Preferably, R 1 and R 2 are independently saturated linear alkyl radicals containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; mention may be made in particular of the dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl radicals; preferentially, R, which may be identical or different, 1 and R 2 is selected from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

[0267] Preferably, in the silicone of formula (XII): - x is in the range from 10 to 2000, in particular from 100 to 1000; - y is in the range of 1 to 100; - A contains 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched; more particularly, A is a divalent radical: -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 - and -CH 2 CH(CH 3 )CH 2 - selected from; and - R 1 and R 2 are saturated linear alkyl radicals containing independently 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 20 carbon atoms, selected in particular from the dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl radicals; preferentially, R 1 and R 2 is selected from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

[0268] A preferred silicone of formula (XII) is bis-cetearyl amodimethicone. Mention may in particular be made of the aminosilicone sold by Momentive under the name Silsoft AX.

[0269] h) polysiloxanes, especially polydimethylsiloxanes, which contain primary amine groups at only one chain end or on a side chain, such as those of formula (XIV), (XV) or (XVI): [ka] H 2 NCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -Si(CH 3 ) 2 -O-[Si(CH 3 ) 2 -O] n -Si(CH 3 ) 2 C 4 H 9 (XV) [ka] In formula (XIV), the values ​​of n and m are such that the weight average molecular weight of the amino silicone is 1,000-55,000.

[0270] As examples of aminosilicones of formula (XIV), mention may be made of the products sold by Gelest under the names AMS-132, AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS-191 and AMS-1203, and by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. under the name KF-8015.

[0271] In formula (XV), the value of n is such that the weight average molecular weight of the amino silicone is 500-3,000.

[0272] As examples of aminosilicones of formula (XV), mention may be made of the products sold by the company Gelest under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12.

[0273] In formula (XVI), the values ​​of n and m are such that the weight average molecular weight of the aminosilicone is 500-50,000.

[0274] As an example of an aminosilicone of formula (XVI), mention may be made of the aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone sold under the name DC2-2078 Fluid by Dow Corning.

[0275] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise, as silicone, an aminosilicone corresponding to the following formula (XVIII): [ka] (In the formula, n is a number between 1 and 1000, preferably between 10 and 500, better still between 25 and 100, and even better still between 50 and 80; m is a number between 1 and 200; preferably between 1 and 100; better still between 1 and 10, and even better still between 1 and 5; - R''' may be identical or different, preferably identical, and is an alkyl group, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl OH groups; R' is a linear or branched divalent alkylene radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 2 to 5 carbon atoms; R″ is a linear or branched divalent alkylene radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 1 to 5 carbon atoms.

[0276] Preferably, the radicals R''', which may be identical or different, are saturated linear alkyl radicals containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 18 carbon atoms; in particular the dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl and octadecyl radicals may be mentioned; preferably, the radicals R''', which may be identical or different, are saturated linear alkyl radicals containing in particular from 12 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular C 13 , C 14 Or C 15 group, alone or in mixture, and more preferably13 , C 14 Or C 15 It is a mixture of groups.

[0277] Preferably, the groups R''' are identical.

[0278] Preferably, R' is a linear or branched, especially branched, divalent alkylene group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, especially 2 to 5 carbon atoms, in particular -CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -, -CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )-CH 2 -or-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )-group.

[0279] Preferably, R″ is a linear divalent alkylene group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, especially 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular —CH 2 -CH 2 -based.

[0280] Preferentially, the composition may comprise one or more silicones of formula (XVIII) in which: - n is a number from 50 to 80; - m is a number from 1 to 5; - R''' are identical and are saturated linear alkyl groups containing 12 to 18 carbon atoms; - R' is a divalent alkylene group having 2 to 5 carbon atoms; - R'' is a linear divalent alkylene group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0281] Better still, the composition may comprise one or more silicones of formula (XVIII), in which: - n is a number from 50 to 80; - m is a number from 1 to 5; - R''' are identical and are saturated linear alkyl groups containing 13 to 15 carbon atoms; - R' is -(CH 2 ) 3 -, -CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )-CH 2 -or-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )-group, - R'' is -(CH 2 ) 2 -based.

[0282] The most particularly preferred silicone of formula (XVIII) is Bis(C13-15 Alkoxy) PG-Amodimethicone (INCI name). Mention may in particular be made of the silicone sold under the name Dowsil 8500 Conditioning Agent by Dow.

[0283] Preferably, the aminosilicones, alone or in mixtures, are selected from: - aminosilicones of formula (II), preferably G is C 1 ~C 8 alkyl, where a=a'=0; the most preferred silicone of formula (II) is aminopropyl dimethicone sold under the name X-22-9686 by Shin-Etsu; - quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (IX) above; - aminosilicones of formula (XVIII) above, in particular those in which n is a number between 50 and 80; m is a number between 1 and 5; R''' are identical and are saturated linear alkyl groups containing 13 to 15 carbon atoms; and R' is -(CH 2 ) 3 -, -CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )-CH 2 -or-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )-group; R″ is —(CH 2 ) 2 - Something that is based on something.

[0284] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may comprise silicones in a total content preferably ranging from 0.3% to 5% by weight, better from 0.4% to 4% by weight, preferentially from 0.6% to 3% by weight and better still from 0.7% to 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0285] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may comprise aminosilicones in a total content preferably between 0.3% and 5% by weight, better between 0.4% and 4% by weight, preferentially between 0.6% and 3% by weight and better still between 0.7% and 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0286] Cationic Surfactants Composition B according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more cationic surfactants.

[0287] The cationic surfactant is a non-silicone surfactant, i.e., it does not contain Si-O groups.

[0288] They are preferably chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, or their salts and quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0289] The composition may comprise, alone or in admixture, one or more cationic surfactants selected from the following compounds which are quaternary ammonium salts: a compound corresponding to the following general formula (II): [ka] (In the formula, X - In particular, halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C 1 ~C 4 ) alkyl sulfate, (C 1 ~C 4 ) alkyl sulfonate or (C 1 ~C 4) an anion selected from the group of alkylarylsulfonates; R 1 ~R 4 The groups may be the same or different and represent linear or branched aliphatic or aromatic groups containing 1 to 30 carbon atoms, such as aryl or alkylaryl; R 1 ~R 4 At least one of the groups represents a linear or branched aliphatic group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0290] The aliphatic group may contain heteroatoms such as, inter alia, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and halogens. 1 ~C 30 Alkyl, C 1 ~C 30 Alkoxy, (C 2 ~C 6 ) Polyoxyalkylene, C 1 ~C 30 Alkylamide, (C 12 ~C 22 ) Alkylamide (C 2 ~C 6 ) alkyl, (C 12 ~C 22 ) alkyl acetate, and C 1 ~C 30 The radical is selected from hydroxyalkyl radicals.

[0291] Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (II), preference is given to tetraalkylammonium salts, such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group contains from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, and also palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salts or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium salts, such as those sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by the company VanDyk.

[0292] It is particularly preferred to use the chlorides, bromides or methyl sulfates of these compounds.

[0293] quaternary ammonium salts of imidazolines, for example those of formula (III): [ka] (In the formula, R 5 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, e.g., derived from tallow fatty acid; R 6 is a hydrogen atom, C 1 ~C 4 R represents an alkyl group, or an alkyl or alkenyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms; 7 is C 1 ~C 4 represents an alkyl group, R 8 is a hydrogen atom or C 1 ~C 4 represents an alkyl group, and X - is an anion selected from the group consisting of halide, phosphate, acetate, lactate, alkyl sulfate, alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonate groups, the alkyl and aryl groups containing 1 to 20 carbon atoms and 6 to 30 carbon atoms, respectively.

[0294] Preferably, R 5 and R 6 denotes a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing 12 to 21 carbon atoms, derived, for example, from tallow fatty acids, R 7 indicates a methyl group, and R 8 indicates a hydrogen atom.

[0295] Such a product is, for example, sold under the name Rewoquat® W75 by the company Rewo.

[0296] quaternary di- or triammonium salts, in particular those of formula (V): [ka] (In the formula, R 9 represents an alkyl group containing about 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and / or optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms; R 10 is hydrogen or an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or (R 9a )(R 10a )(R 11a )N-(CH 2 ) 3 R may be the same or different and are selected from the group 9a , R 10a , R 11a , R 11 , R 12 , R 13 , and R 14 is selected from hydrogen or an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X - are halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C 1 ~C 4 ) alkyl sulfate, (C 1 ~C 4 ) alkyl sulfonates and (C 1 ~C 4) alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate, and ethyl sulfate.

[0297] Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P (Quaternium 89) marketed by Finetex, and Finquat CT (Quaternium 75) marketed by Finetex).

[0298] quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of formula (V): [ka] (In the formula, R 15 is C 1 ~C 6 Alkyl group and C 1 ~C 6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups; R 16 is the group R-C(O)-; linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 ~C 22 The group R, which is a hydrocarbon-based group 20 ; selected from a hydrogen atom; R 18 is the group R21-C(O)-; linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 ~C 6 The group R, which is a hydrocarbon-based group 22 ; selected from a hydrogen atom; R 17 , R 19 and R 21 may be the same or different, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 7 ~C 21 selected from a hydrocarbon-based group; r, s and t may be the same or different and have values ​​ranging from 2 to 6; y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10; x and z may be the same or different and have values ​​ranging from 0 to 10; X - is a simple or complex, organic or inorganic anion; However, the sum of x+y+z is between 1 and 15, and if x is 0, then R 16 is R 20 If z is 0, then R 18 is R 22 (represents).

[0299] Alkyl group R 15 can be linear or branched, more particularly linear. 15 represents a methyl group, an ethyl group, a hydroxyethyl group, or a dihydroxypropyl group, and more preferably represents a methyl group or an ethyl group.

[0300] Advantageously, the sum of x+y+z is between 1 and 10.

[0301] R 16 is a hydrocarbon group R 20 If it is, it may be long chain and contain 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or it may be short chain and contain 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0302] R 18 is a hydrocarbon-based group R 22 When it is, it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0303] Advantageously, R 17 , R 19 and R 21 may be the same or different, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 11 ~C 21 From the hydrocarbon group, more specifically, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 11 ~C 21 It is selected from alkyl and alkenyl groups.

[0304] Preferably, x and z, which may be the same or different, are equal to 0 or 1.

[0305] Advantageously, y is equal to one.

[0306] Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and more particularly equal to 2.

[0307] Anion X - is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulfate, more particularly methyl sulfate. However, it is possible to use methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, anions derived from organic acids, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion compatible with ammonium bearing an ester function. - is even more specifically the chloride or methyl sulfate.

[0308] In the composition according to the invention, R 15 represents a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1, z is equal to 0 or 1, and r, s and t are equal to 2; R 16 is R19-C(=O)-, methyl, ethyl or C 14 ~C 22 selected from the group consisting of a hydrocarbon group and a hydrogen atom; R 18 is selected from the group R21-C(=O)- and a hydrogen atom; R 17 , R 19 and R 21 may be the same or different, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 13 ~C 17 is selected from hydrocarbon-based groups, preferably linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 13 ~C 17 More particularly, ammonium salts of formula (V) selected from alkyl and alkenyl groups can be used.

[0309] Advantageously, the hydrocarbon-based group is linear.

[0310] Mention may be made, for example, of compounds of formula (V), such as diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium and monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium salts (especially chlorides or methyl sulfates), and mixtures thereof. These acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are more particularly derived from vegetable oils, such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be the same or different.

[0311] These products are, for example, optionally oxyalkylenated triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, 10 ~C 30 Fatty acids or C of plant or animal origin 10 ~C 30 They are obtained by direct esterification with a mixture of fatty acids or by transesterification of their methyl esters, followed by quaternization using alkylating agents such as alkyl halides (preferably methyl or ethyl halides), dialkyl sulfates (preferably methyl or ethyl sulfates), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl paratoluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin, or glycerol chlorohydrin.

[0312] Compounds of this type are sold, for example, under the name Dehyquart® by the company Henkel, under the name Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, under the name Noxamium® by the company CECA or under the name Rewoquat® WE 18 by the company Rewo-Witco.

[0313] The composition according to the invention may, for example, contain a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts, with the diester salt being in the majority by weight.

[0314] Ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, as described in US-A-4,874,554 and US-A-4,137,180, may also be used.

[0315] Behenoyl hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, sold under the name Quatarmin BTC 131 by KAO, can also be used.

[0316] Preferably, the ammonium salt containing at least one ester functional group contains two ester functional groups.

[0317] Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that may be used, it is preferred to use dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts.

[0318] The term "fatty amine" refers to a fatty amine that contains at least one primary, secondary, or tertiary amine group, optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated, or a salt thereof, and at least one C 6 ~C 30 , preferably C 8 ~C 30 It means a compound containing a hydrocarbon-based chain.

[0319] Preferably, the fatty amines for use according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0320] Fatty amines that may be mentioned include amidoamines. The amidoamines according to the invention may be chosen from fatty amidoamines, in which the fatty chain can be carried by an amine or amide group.

[0321] The term "amidoamine" refers to a compound that contains at least one amide group and at least one primary, secondary, or tertiary amine group.

[0322] The term "fatty amidoamine" generally refers to a fatty acid having at least one C 6 ~C 30 By amidoamines is meant those which contain a hydrocarbon-based chain. Preferably, the amidoamines for use according to the invention are not quaternized.

[0323] Preferably, the amidoamines for use according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0324] Among the fatty amidoamines for use according to the invention, mention may be made of amidoamines of the following formula (VI): RCONHR″N(R′) 2 (VI) (In the formula, R is a substituted or unsubstituted, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing 5 to 29, preferably 7 to 23, carbon atoms, in particular a linear or branched C 5 ~C 29 , preferably C 7 ~C 23 Alkyl group, or linear or branched C 5 ~C 29 , preferably C 7 ~C 23 represents an alkenyl group; - R'' represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably containing from 2 to 4 carbon atoms and better still containing 3 carbon atoms; R' may be the same or different and represents a substituted or unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl group).

[0325] The fatty amidoamines of formula (VI) are, for example, selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, in particular the product sold under the name Lexamine S13 by the Inolex Chemical Company, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, mincamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, talamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

[0326] Preferably, the fatty amidoamine is selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidpropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

[0327] The cationic surfactant is preferably selected from those of formula (II), (V), (VI) above, and mixtures thereof, better still from those of formula (II), (VI) above, and mixtures thereof, and even better still from those of formula (II).

[0328] Preferentially, the cationic surfactant may be selected from salts such as the chlorides, bromides or methosulfates of tetraalkylammonium, such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts, whose alkyl group contains from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts; dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, such as dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methsulfate; and mixtures thereof.

[0329] More preferentially, they are chosen from cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

[0330] When they are present, the total content of cationic surfactants in the composition according to the invention preferably ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.2% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 7% by weight and even better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0331] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the mass ratio of the total content of the cationic surfactants to the total content of the amino acid type compounds is 1 or more.

[0332] Cationic Polymer Composition B used according to the invention may optionally contain one or more cationic polymers other than the associative polymers described above. This or these cationic polymers are therefore non-associative.

[0333] The term "cationic polymer" means a non-silicone (non-silicon) polymer that contains cationic groups and / or ionizable groups at the cationic groups and does not contain any anionic groups and / or ionizable groups at the anionic groups.

[0334] The cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a cationic charge density of less than or equal to 5 milliequivalents per gram (meq / g), better still less than or equal to 4 meq / g.

[0335] The cationic charge density of a polymer corresponds to the number of moles of cationic charge per unit mass of the polymer when the polymer is fully ionized. It can be determined by calculation if the structure of the polymer, i.e. the structure of the monomers that make up the polymer and their molar or mass ratios, is known. It can also be determined experimentally by the Kjeldahl method.

[0336] The cationic polymer that can be used is preferably about 500 to 5×10 6 , preferably about 10 3 ~3×10 6 It has a mass average molar mass (Mw) of

[0337] The cationic polymers that may be used are preferably non-associative.

[0338] Among the cationic polymers that may be used, mention may be made of:

[0339] (1) A homopolymer or copolymer derived from an acrylic or methacrylic ester or amide and containing at least one unit having the formula: [ka] (In the formula, - R 3 may be the same or different, and each represents a hydrogen atom or a CH 3 represents a group, - A may be the same or different and represent a linear or branched divalent alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms; - R 4 , R 5 and R 6 may be the same or different and represent an alkyl group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl group, preferably an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms; - R 1 and R 2 may be the same or different and represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl; - X represents an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid, such as methosulfate, or a halide, such as chloride or bromide.

[0340] The copolymers of group (1) may also contain one or more units derived from a comonomer which may be selected from the group of acrylamide, methacrylamide, diacetone acrylamide, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted at the nitrogen with lower (C1-C4) alkyl, acrylic or methacrylic acid esters, vinyl lactams such as vinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl caprolactam, and vinyl esters.

[0341] Among these copolymers of group (1), mention may be made of the following: - copolymers of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or dimethyl halides, such as the products sold under the name Hercofloc by the company Hercules; - copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, such as the product sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by the company Ciba Geigy; - copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, such as those sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules; - quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold by the company ISP under the name Gafquat, for example the products known as Gafquat 734 or Gafquat 755 or Copolymer 845, 958 and 937; dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold by the company ISP under the name Gaffix VC 713; - Vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyl dimethylamine copolymers, such as the product sold under the name Styleze CC 10 by ISP; - quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS 100 by the company ISP; - preferably crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(C1-C4)alkyltri(C1-C4)alkylammonium salts, for example those obtained by homopolymerizing dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride or by copolymerizing acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. More particularly, crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymers (20 / 80 by weight) can be used in the form of a 50% by weight dispersion of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is sold under the name Salcare® SC 92 by the company Ciba. Crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymers, comprising about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or liquid esters, can also be used. These dispersions are sold under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by the company Ciba.

[0342] (2) Cationic polysaccharides, especially cationic cellulose and galactomannan gum. Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or derivatives grafted with water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomers, and cationic galactomannan gums.

[0343] Cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups are described in particular in French Patent No. 1 492 597. They are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammonium derivatives of hydroxyethylcellulose reacted with epoxides substituted with trimethylammonium groups.

[0344] Mention may in particular be made of the polymers sold under the names Ucare Polymer JR (JR400LT, JR125 and JR30M) or LR (LR400 and LR30M) by the company Amerchol.

[0345] Cationic cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomers are described in particular in US Patent 4,131,576; hydroxyalkylcelluloses grafted with methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salts, such as hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropylcelluloses, may be mentioned. Most particularly, crosslinked or non-crosslinked quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses, in which the quaternizing agent may in particular be diallyldimethylammonium chloride; most particularly, hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium hydroxyethylcelluloses may be mentioned.

[0346] Among the commercial products that meet this definition, mention may be made of the products sold under the names Celquat L200 and Celquat H100 by the company National Starch.

[0347] As a particularly preferred cationic cellulose, mention may in particular be made of the polymer having the INCI name Polyquaternium-10.

[0348] Cationic galactomannan gums are described in particular in US Pat. Nos. 3,589,578 and 4,031,307; cationic guar gums may be mentioned, in particular those containing cationic trialkylammonium groups, especially trimethylammonium. Mention may be made of guar gums modified with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salts (e.g. chloride).

[0349] Preferably, the guar gums have between 2% and 30% by number of their hydroxyl functions with trialkylammonium groups. More preferentially, these guar gums have between 5% and 20% by number of their hydroxyl functions with trialkylammonium groups in their branched chains. Among these trialkylammonium groups, mention may be made most particularly of the trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups. More preferentially, these groups represent between 5% and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified guar gum. According to the invention, guar gums modified with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride may be used.

[0350] Mention may in particular be made of products with the INCI name Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, such products being sold, for example, by the company Solvay under the names Jaguar C13S, Jaguar C15, Jaguar C17 and Jaguar C162.

[0351] Among the cationic polysaccharides that can be used, mention may be made of the cationic derivatives of cassia gum, especially those containing quaternary ammonium groups; in particular the product having the INCI name Cassia hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.

[0352] (3) Polymers formed from piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene groups, optionally containing straight or branched chains interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, or nitrogen atoms, or aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and the oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers.

[0353] (4) Water-soluble polyaminoamides, especially prepared by polycondensation of acidic compounds with polyamines; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with epihalohydrins, diepoxides, dianhydrides, unsaturated dianhydrides, bis-unsaturated derivatives, bis-halohydrins, bis-azetidiniums, bis-haloacyldiamines, bis-alkylhalides, or with oligomers resulting from the reaction of bifunctional compounds reactive with bis-halohydrins, bis-azetidiniums, bis-haloacyldiamines, bis-alkylhalides, epihalohydrins, diepoxides, or bis-unsaturated derivatives; the crosslinking agents are used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the amide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they contain one or more tertiary amine functions, they can also be quaternized.

[0354] (5) polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylenepolyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with bifunctional agents; for example, mention may be made of the adipic acid / dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl group contains 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably denoting methyl, ethyl or propyl. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylenetriamine polymers sold under the names Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz.

[0355] (6) Polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylenepolyamine containing two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid selected from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the molar ratio between the polyalkylenepolyamine and the dicarboxylic acid is preferably 0.8:1 to 1.4:1; and the resulting polyaminoamide is reacted with epichlorohydrin, the molar ratio of epichlorohydrin to the secondary amine groups of the polyaminoamide being preferably 0.5:1 to 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are in particular sold under the name Hercosett 57 by the company Hercules or, in the case of the adipic acid / epoxypropyl / diethylenetriamine copolymer, under the name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by the company Hercules.

[0356] (7) Cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium, for example homopolymers or copolymers which contain, as main chain constituents, units corresponding to formula (I) or (II): [ka] (In the formula, - k and t are 0 or 1, and the sum of k+t is 1; - R 12 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; - R 10 and R 11 are independent of each other, C 1 ~C 6 Alkyl group, C 1 ~C 5 Hydroxyalkyl group, C 1 ~C 4 Indicates an amidoalkyl group; or R 10 and R 11 may together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached represent a heterocyclic group (e.g., piperidyl or morpholinyl); R 10 and R 11 are, independently of one another, preferably 1 ~C 4represents an alkyl group; - Y - is an anion, for example, bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, or phosphate).

[0357] Mention may more particularly be made of the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium salts (e.g. chloride) sold, for example, under the name Merquat 100 by the company Nalco (INCI name polyquaternium-6), and in particular the copolymer of diallyldimethylammonium salts (e.g. chloride) and acrylamide (INCI name polyquaternium-7), sold under the names Merquat 550 or Merquat 7SPR.

[0358] (8) A diquaternary ammonium polymer comprising a repeating unit of the formula: [ka] (In the formula, - R 13 , R 14 , R 15 , and R 16 may be the same or different and are an aliphatic group, an alicyclic group, or an arylaliphatic group containing 1 to 20 carbon atoms, or C 1 ~C 12 represents a hydroxyalkyl aliphatic group; Or R 13 , R 14 , R 15 , and R 16 together or separately, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, form a heterocycle which optionally contains a second non-nitrogen heteroatom; Or R 13 , R 14 , R 15 , and R 16 is a linear or branched C substituted with nitrile, ester, acyl, or amide. 1 ~C 6Alkyl group, or -CO-OR 17 -D group or -CO-NH-R 17 -D group (where R 17 is alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group; - A1 and B1 each represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated divalent polymethylene group containing 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may contain, be bonded to or have inserted in its main chain one or more aromatic rings, one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms, or one or more sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, -X - represents an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid; A 1 , R 13 , and R 15 may form a piperazine ring together with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached; Furthermore, when A1 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene group, B1 can also represent a (CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2)p- group, where n and p, which may be the same or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and D represents: a) a glycol residue of the formula -OZO-, where Z represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae: -(CH2CHO)x-CH2CH2- and -[CH2CH(CH3)O]y-CH2CH(CH3)-, where x and y represent integers from 1 to 4 representing a defined individual degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization; b) bis-secondary diamine residues, such as piperazine derivatives; c) bis-primary diamine residues of the formula -NH-Y-NH-, where Y represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical or the divalent radical -CH-CH-SS-CH-CH-; d) A ureylene group of the formula -NH-CO-NH-.

[0359] Preferably, X- is an anion, for example chloride or bromide. These polymers generally have a number-average molar mass (Mn) between 1000 and 100,000.

[0360] More particularly, a repeat unit corresponding to the formula: [ka] (wherein R1, R2, R3, and R4 may be the same or different and represent an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and X- is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid.) Examples of the polymers include those composed of

[0361] Particularly preferred compounds of formula (IV) are those in which R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , and R 4 represents a methyl group, n=3, p=6, and X=Cl, which is known as hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI (CTFA) nomenclature.

[0362] (9) Polyquaternary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula (V): [ka] (In the formula, - R 18 , R 19 , R 20 and R 21 may be the same or different and are a hydrogen atom, or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl, β-hydroxypropyl, or -CH 2 CH 2 (OCH 2 CH 2 ) p represents an OH group, p is equal to 0 or an integer from 1 to 6, with the proviso that R 18 , R 19 , R 20 and R 21does not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom, - r and s may be the same or different and are integers from 1 to 6; - q is 0 or an integer from 1 to 34, -X - indicates an anion such as a halide, - A represents a divalent dihalide group or preferably -CH 2 -CH 2 -O-CH 2 -CH 2 -).

[0363] Examples that may be mentioned include the products Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® AD1, Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175 sold by the company Miranol.

[0364] (10) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole, such as the products sold under the names Luviquat FC905, FC550 and FC370 by BASF.

[0365] (11) Polyamines, such as Polyquart® H sold by Cognis, which is designated in the CTFA Dictionary under the name Polyethylene Glycol (15) Tallow Polyamine.

[0366] (12) A polymer comprising in its structure: (a) one or more units corresponding to the following formula (A): [ka] (b) optionally, one or more units corresponding to formula (B): [ka]

[0367] In other words, these polymers may be chosen in particular from homopolymers or copolymers comprising one or more units deriving from vinylamine and, optionally, one or more units deriving from vinylformamide.

[0368] Preferably, these cationic polymers contain, in their structure, 5 mol % to 100 mol % of units corresponding to formula (A) and 0 to 95 mol % of units corresponding to formula (B), and are preferably selected from polymers containing 10 mol % to 100 mol % of units corresponding to formula (A) and 0 to 90 mol % of units corresponding to formula (B).

[0369] These polymers can be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide, which hydrolysis can be carried out in an acidic or basic medium.

[0370] The weight average molecular mass of said polymer, measured by light scattering, may be in the range of 1000 to 3000000 g / mol, preferably 10000 to 1000000, more particularly 100000 to 500000 g / mol.

[0371] Polymers comprising units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are in particular sold under the name Lupamin by the company BASF, for example, but not limited to, the products offered under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010.

[0372] Preferably, the cationic polymers that may be utilized in connection with the present invention are selected, alone or as mixtures, from the polymers of family (1) and cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic celluloses, such as Polyquaternium-10; cationic galactomannan gums, in particular cationic guar gum; and also mixtures thereof.

[0373] When present, the composition according to the invention may comprise cationic polymers in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight and even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0374] When present, the composition according to the invention may contain cationic polysaccharides in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight and even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0375] Nonionic Polysaccharides The compositions used according to the invention may optionally contain one or more non-ionic polysaccharides other than the associative polymers described above. This or these non-ionic polysaccharides are non-associative.

[0376] The non-ionic polysaccharides are preferably chosen, alone or in mixtures, from cellulose, starch, galactomannans and their non-ionic derivatives, in particular their ethers or esters.

[0377] These polymers can be physically or chemically modified: by physical treatment we can refer to temperature, and by chemical treatment we can refer to esterification, etherification, amidation and oxidation reactions, as long as these treatments give rise to non-ionic polymers.

[0378] Galactomannans that may be used include (poly)hydroxy (C 1 ~C 6 ) Mention may be made of non-ionic guar gums which can be modified with alkyl groups, in particular hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

[0379] These guar gums are well known from the prior art and may be prepared, for example, by reacting guar gum with the corresponding alkene oxide, such as propylene oxide, to obtain guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.

[0380] The degree of hydroxyalkylation preferably ranges from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functional groups present on the guar gum.

[0381] Such nonionic guar gums, optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups, are sold, for example, by Rhodia Chimie under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60, Jaguar HP120, Jaguar HP105 SGI and Jaguar HP8 SGI.

[0382] The plant origin of the starch molecules that may be used in the present invention may be cereals or tubers. Thus, the starch may be selected, for example, from corn starch, rice starch, cassava starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch and pea starch. The starch may be chemically or physically modified, in particular by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation, heat treatment.

[0383] The starch molecules may be derived from any plant source of starch, in particular from maize, potato, oat, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley or wheat. It is also possible to use hydrolysates of the abovementioned starches. The starch is preferably derived from potato.

[0384] Nonionic polysaccharides also contain C 10 ~C 30 It may be a cellulose-based polymer that does not contain fatty chains.

[0385] According to the present invention, the term "cellulose-based" refers to any polysaccharide compound having in its structure a sequence of glucose residues linked by β-1,4 bonds, and the cellulose-based polymer may be a derivative of unsubstituted cellulose and / or non-ionic cellulose.

[0386] Thus, the cellulose-based polymers that may be used according to the invention may be selected from unsubstituted cellulose, including those in microcrystalline form, and cellulose ethers. Among these cellulose-based polymers, cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ether esters are distinguished.

[0387] Among the non-ionic cellulose ethers, there are (C1-C4) alkyl celluloses, such as methyl cellulose and ethyl cellulose (e.g., Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical); (poly)hydroxy (C 1 ~C 4 ) alkyl celluloses, such as hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose (e.g., Natrosol 250 HHR from Aqualon) and hydroxypropyl cellulose (e.g., Klucel EF from Aqualon); mixed (poly)hydroxy (C 1 ~C 4 )Alkyl-(C 1 ~C 4 ) Alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropyl methylcellulose (eg, Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical), hydroxyethyl methylcellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose (eg, Bermocoll E481 FQ from Akzo Nobel) and hydroxybutyl methylcellulose.

[0388] Preferably, the non-ionic polysaccharides are, alone or in mixtures, cellulose, galactomannans and their non-ionic derivatives, in particular their ethers; better still, alone or in mixtures, (poly)hydroxy (C 1 ~C6 ) non-ionic guar gum, optionally modified with alkyl groups, in particular hydroxypropyl groups; and / or substituted or unsubstituted celluloses, and (C 1 ~C 4 ) Alkyl cellulose and (poly)hydroxy (C 1 ~C 4 ) cellulose ethers such as alkyl celluloses.

[0389] Preferably, the non-ionic polysaccharide is, alone or in a mixture, a (poly)hydroxy (C 1 ~C 6 ) non-ionic guar gums optionally modified with alkyl, in particular hydroxypropyl (INCI name: Hydroxypropyl Guar) groups.

[0390] If present, the composition according to the invention may contain nonionic polysaccharides in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight and even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0391] When they are present, the composition according to the invention may comprise nonionic polysaccharides chosen from cellulose, galactomannans and their nonionic derivatives, in particular their ethers, and mixtures thereof, in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0392] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise one or more cationic polymers and one or more nonionic polysaccharides; in particular one or more cationic polysaccharides and one or more nonionic polysaccharides; better still one or more cationic polysaccharides selected from cationic guar gum and cationic cellulose, and one or more nonionic guar gums.

[0393] Nonionic Surfactants Composition B used according to the invention may optionally contain one or more non-ionic surfactants.

[0394] As examples of non-ionic surfactants that may be mentioned, alone or in mixtures, the following non-ionic surfactants: - Oxyalkylenation (C 8 ~C 24 ) alkylphenols, - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated C, preferably containing one or two fatty chains; 8 ~C 40 alcohol; - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched oxyalkylenated C 8 ~C 30 Fatty acid amides; - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C 8 ~C 30 Esters of acids with polyethylene glycol; - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably oxyethylenated esters of C8 to C30 acids with sorbitol; - fatty acid esters of sucrose; - optionally oxyalkylenated alkyl (poly)glycosides (0 to 10 oxyalkylene units), which may contain from 1 to 15 glucose units; - saturated or unsaturated oxyethylated vegetable oils; - condensation products of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide; - N-(C 8 ~C 30 ) alkyl glucamine and N-(C 8 ~C 30 ) acylmethylglucamine derivatives; - Amine oxides.

[0395] The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units or a combination thereof, preferably oxyethylene units.

[0396] The number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide is preferably in the range from 1 to 250, more particularly from 2 to 100 and better still from 2 to 50, and the number of moles of glycerol is in particular in the range from 1 to 50 and better still from 1 to 10.

[0397] Advantageously, the nonionic surfactant according to the invention does not contain any oxypropylene units.

[0398] Preferably, they contain a number of moles of ethylene oxide in the range from 1 to 250, in particular in the range from 2 to 100 and better still in the range from 2 to 50.

[0399] As the glycerolized nonionic surfactant, for example, monoglycerolized or polyglycerolized C containing 1 to 50 mol of glycerol, preferably 1 to 10 mol of glycerol, 8 ~C 40 Alcohols are preferably used.

[0400] Mention may be made of lauryl alcohol with 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether), lauryl alcohol with 1.5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol with 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Oleyl Ether), oleyl alcohol with 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleyl Ether), cetearyl alcohol with 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol with 6 mol of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol with 6 mol of glycerol, and octadecanol with 6 mol of glycerol.

[0401] Among the glycerolized alcohols, C containing 1 mol of glycerol 8 ~C 10 Alcohol, C containing 1 mol glycerol 10~C 12 C containing alcohol and 1.5 mol of glycerol 12 It is particularly preferred to use alcohol.

[0402] The non-ionic surfactants of the alkyl (poly)glycoside type may in particular be represented by the following general formula: RO-(RO)-(G)v, in which R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group containing 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl group, the linear or branched alkyl group of which contains 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms; R2 represents an alkylene group containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms; - G represents a sugar unit containing 5-6 carbon atoms; - t refers to a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4; - v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4).

[0403] Preferably, the alkyl (poly)glycoside surfactant is a compound of the formula described above, wherein: R1 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group containing from 8 to 18 carbon atoms; R2 represents an alkylene group containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms; - t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3, preferably equal to 0, - G stands for glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose; the degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v, may range from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization is more particularly between 1 and 2).

[0404] The glucosidic bonds between the sugar units are generally of type 1-6 or 1-4, preferably of type 1-4. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant. C8 / C16 alkyl(poly)glucosides of type 1-4 are most particularly preferred, in particular decyl glucoside and caprylyl / capryl glucoside.

[0405] Among the commercially available products, mention may be made of the products sold under the names Plantaren® (600 CS / U, 1200 and 2000) or Plantacare® (818, 1200 and 2000) by the company Cognis; the products sold under the names Oramix CG 110 and Oramix® NS 10 by the company SEPPIC; the product sold under the name Lutensol GD 70 by the company BASF or the product sold under the name AG10 LK by the company Chem Y.

[0406] Preference is given to use C8 / C16-alkyl (poly)glycosides of type 1-4, in particular as a 53% aqueous solution, such as that sold under the reference Plantacare® 818 UP by Cognis.

[0407] The nonionic surfactants used in the compositions according to the invention are preferentially the following, alone or in mixtures: - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated C containing 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide, more particularly 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide; 8 ~C 40 Alcohols; these preferably contain one or two fatty chains; - saturated or unsaturated oxyethylenated vegetable oils containing from 1 to 100 mol, preferably from 2 to 50 mol, of ethylene oxide; - optionally oxyalkylenated with preferably 0 to 10 mol of ethylene oxide and containing 1 to 15 glucose units (C 8 ~C 30) alkyl (poly)glycosides; - monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C containing from 1 to 50 mol of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 10 mol of glycerol; 8 ~C 40 alcohol; - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched oxyalkylenated C 8 ~C 30 Fatty acid amides; - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C 8 ~C 30 Esters of acids with polyethylene glycol; - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C 8 ~C 30 Esters of acids and sorbitol, preferably oxyethylated is selected from.

[0408] More preferentially, the nonionic surfactants used in the compositions according to the invention are, alone or in mixtures, the following: - containing from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide, and containing one or two fatty chains, in particular at least one C 8 ~C 20 , especially C 10 ~C 18 Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched oxyethylenated C containing alkyl chains 8 ~C 40 alcohol; - Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C 30 esters of acids and sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated; and - optionally oxyalkylenated (C 8 ~C 30 ) Alkyl (poly)glucoside is selected from.

[0409] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises nonionic surfactants in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight and preferentially from 0.2% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0410] fatty substances Composition B used according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more non-silicone fatty substances which may be chosen from solid fatty substances, liquid fatty substances and mixtures thereof.

[0411] The term "non-silicone fatty material" means a fatty material that does not contain any Si-O bonds.

[0412] The term "solid fatty material" refers to a substance that is heated to a temperature of 1.013×10 5 It means a fatty substance having a melting point (at 25° C. / Pa) of greater than or equal to 25° C., preferably greater than or equal to 28° C. and preferentially greater than or equal to 30° C.

[0413] Advantageously, the solid fatty substances that can be used in the present invention can be neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0414] The solid fatty substances may be chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes and ceramides, and mixtures thereof.

[0415] The term "fatty acid" means a long-chain carboxylic acid containing from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The solid fatty acids according to the invention preferably contain from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolized. The solid fatty acids that may be used in the present invention are in particular selected from myristic acid, cetyl acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, and mixtures thereof. The said fatty acids are different from the (poly)hydroxylated carboxylic acids containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms mentioned above.

[0416] The term "fatty alcohol" refers to long-chain aliphatic alcohols containing 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and containing at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. Solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and contain 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH, where R represents a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, containing 8 to 40, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 30 carbon atoms, even more preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms, even more preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms. Solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from saturated and linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, (mono)alcohols containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, even more preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, even more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0417] The solid fatty alcohols which can be used can be selected from the following, either alone or in mixtures: - myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); - cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); - stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); - arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); - Behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); - lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); - seryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); - montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); - Myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0418] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol, more preferably the solid fatty alcohol is cetylstearyl alcohol.

[0419] The solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably 9 ~C 26 from fatty carboxylic acids and / or C 9 ~C 26 The ester is selected from esters formed from fatty alcohols.

[0420] Preferably, these solid fatty esters are esters of linear or branched saturated carboxylic acids containing at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more particularly 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and esters of linear or branched saturated monohydric alcohols containing at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more particularly 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

[0421] Esters of C4 to C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids with C1 to C22 alcohols, and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids with C2 to C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

[0422] In particular, mention may be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate and mixtures thereof.

[0423] Preferably, the solid ester of a fatty acid and / or a fatty alcohol is palmitic acid C 9 ~C 26 Alkyl, especially myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitate; myristic acid C 9 ~C 26 Alkyl myristate, such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; stearate C 9 ~C 26 alkyl stearate, especially myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate and stearyl stearate; and mixtures thereof.

[0424] Particularly preferably, the solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols are selected from myristyl stearate, myristyl palmitate and mixtures thereof.

[0425] For the purposes of the present invention, waxes are lipophilic compounds that are solid at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure, have a reversible solid / liquid state change, have a melting point above about 40° C. and may be up to 200° C., and have an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state. In general, the size of the wax crystals is such that they diffract and / or scatter light, giving a more or less opaque, cloudy appearance to the composition containing them. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but returning the temperature of the mixture to room temperature results in a recrystallization of the wax (white opacity) that is microscopically and macroscopically detectable.

[0426] In particular, waxes suitable for use in the present invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable or mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof.

[0427] Mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon-based waxes, such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cera bellina), lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, spermaceti; cork fibre or sugarcane wax, olive tree wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, espartograss wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and Haze wax, floral absolute waxes; montan wax, orange wax, lemon wax, microcrystalline wax, paraffin, petroleum jelly, lignite and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by the Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, waxy copolymers and their esters.

[0428] Also included may be C20-C60 microcrystalline waxes such as Microwax HW.

[0429] Mention may also be made of MW 500 polyethylene wax sold under the trade name Permalen 50-L Polyethylene.

[0430] Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils containing linear or branched C8 to C32 fatty chains. Among these waxes, mention may be made of isomerized jojoba oils, such as trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular the product manufactured or sold under the name Iso-Jojoba-50® by the company Desert Whale, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, in particular the product sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene.

[0431] Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax Castor 16L64® and 22L73® by the company Sofim, may also be used.

[0432] Also usable waxes are C 1 20 ~C 40 Alkyl(hydroxystearyloxy)stearates (wherein the alkyl group contains 20 to 40 carbon atoms). Such waxes are sold in particular under the names Kester Wax K82P®, HydroxypolyesterK82P® and Kester Wax K80P® by the company Koster Keunen.

[0433] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; mention may be made in particular of carnauba microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 350® by Micro Powders, synthetic wax microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 114S® by Micro Powders, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as the products sold under the name MicroCare 300® and 310® by Micro Powders, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 325® by Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the name Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by Micro Powders, and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the name Microslip 519® and 519L® by Micro Powders.

[0434] The wax is preferably selected from mineral waxes, such as paraffin, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite wax; vegetable waxes, such as cocoa butter, shea butter or cork fibre or sugarcane wax, olive tree wax, rice bran wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, ouricury wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, espartograss wax or floral absolute waxes, such as the essential wax of blackcurrant flowers sold by Bertin (France); waxes of animal origin, such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cera bellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, microcrystalline waxes, and mixtures thereof.

[0435] Ceramides or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides which may be used in the compositions according to the invention are known and may in particular be mentioned as ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the Dawning classification.

[0436] The ceramide or analogue thereof that may be used preferably corresponds to the following formula: [ka] (In the formula, - R 1 is C 14 ~C 30 Denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from a fatty acid, which is substituted with a hydroxyl group at the alpha position or a hydroxyl group at the omega position, and which is a saturated or unsaturated C 16 ~C 30 Capable of being esterified with fatty acids; - R 2 is a hydrogen atom or (glycosyl) n Group, (galactosyl) m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, n is an integer of 1 to 4, and m is an integer of 1 to 8; - R 3 is saturated or unsaturated C 15 ~C 26 represents a hydrocarbon-based group, in which, in the alpha position, this group has one or more C 1 ~C 14 may be substituted with alkyl groups; In the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 can also represent a C15-C26 α-hydroxyalkyl group, it being understood that the hydroxyl group is optionally esterified with a C16-C30 α-hydroxy acid.

[0437] Preferably, ceramides are used in which R1 represents a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from a C14 to C30 fatty acid; R2 represents a galactosyl group or a sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 represents a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3 group.

[0438] Particularly preferred ceramides are 1 C 16 ~C 22 R represents a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from a fatty acid; 2 indicates a hydrogen atom, and R 3 Saturated or unsaturated linear C 15 It is a compound showing the group.

[0439] R 1 C 12 ~C 22 R represents a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from a fatty acid; 2 represents a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R 3 Saturated or unsaturated C 12 ~C 22 Hydrocarbon-based groups, preferably -CH=CH-(CH 2 ) 12 -CH 3 Compounds exhibiting the group may also be used.

[0440] Particularly preferred compounds are 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-oleylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxypalmitoyl]aminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3,4-triol, in particular N-stearoylphytosphingosine. , 2-N-palmitoylaminohexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl-N-methyl-D-glucamine, cetyl acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide, and bis(N-hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine will also be used.

[0441] Liquid fatty substances which may be used include liquid hydrocarbons, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, triglyceride type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, mineral oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0442] Liquid fatty substances are heated at atmospheric pressure (1.013×10 5 It has a melting point (at 1 Pa) of less than or equal to 25° C., preferably less than or equal to 20° C. Advantageously, the liquid fatty substance is not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0443] It is to be recalled that fatty alcohols, fatty esters and fatty acids contain more particularly at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, hydrocarbon-based group containing from 6 to 40, better still from 8 to 30, carbon atoms and optionally substituted, in particular with one or more, in particular with 1 to 4, hydroxyl groups. If unsaturated, these compounds may contain 1 to 3 conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0444] Liquid hydrocarbons are 6 ~C 18 and is a liquid hydrocarbon of the formula C, which may be linear, branched or optionally cyclic, and is preferably 8 ~C 16 , especially C 10 ~C 14 Examples of such alkanes include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane or isoparaffins such as isohexadecane or isodecane, and mixtures thereof.

[0445] The liquid hydrocarbons may also be chosen from those containing more than 16 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin; mention may be made of liquid paraffin or liquid petroleum jelly, polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.

[0446] The triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin may preferably be chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric triglycerides, such as those sold by the company Stearinerie Dubois or under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0447] The liquid fatty alcohol may be selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols containing from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, examples of which include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0448] With regard to the liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than the above-mentioned triglycerides, in particular saturated or unsaturated linear C 1 ~C 26 Or branched C 3 ~C 26 Aliphatic mono- or poly-acids and saturated or unsaturated linear C 1 ~C 26 Or branched C 3 ~C 26 Mention may be made of esters with aliphatic monohydric or polyhydric alcohols, the total number of carbon atoms in the ester being 6 or more, and more preferably 10 or more.

[0449] For esters of monoalcohols, preferably at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

[0450] Among the monoesters, dihydroabietyl behenate, octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, isostearyl lactate, lauryl lactate, linoleyl lactate, oleyl lactate, isostearyl octanoate, isocetyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, decyl oleate, isocetyl isostearate, isocetyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl octanoate, isodecyl oleate, isononyl isononanoate, isostearyl palmitate, a Included are methyl cetylricinoleate, octyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, octyldodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, isobutyl stearate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

[0451] Preferably, among the monoesters of monovalent acids and monohydric alcohols, ethyl palmitate or isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates, such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, and isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof, will be used.

[0452] In connection with this variant, esters of C4 to C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids with C1 to C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids with C2 to C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

[0453] Among others, diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyloxystearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate Included may be mentioned: thrityl; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and polyethylene glycol distearate; and mixtures thereof.

[0454] The composition may also contain, as fatty esters, sugar esters and diesters of C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22, fatty acids. It should be recalled that the term "sugar" refers to oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds having several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and containing at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

[0455] Examples of suitable sugars include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0456] The sugar esters of fatty acids may in particular be selected from the group comprising esters or mixtures of esters of the abovementioned sugars with linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22 fatty acids. If unsaturated, these compounds may contain 1 to 3 conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0457] The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0458] These esters include, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, coconut oil fatty acid esters, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonic acid esters, or mixtures thereof, in particular mixed esters such as oleopalmitate, oleostearate, and palmitostearate.

[0459] More particularly, mono- and diesters are used, in particular the mono- or dioleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate and oleostearate of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.

[0460] One example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0461] Preferably, liquid esters of monobasic acids and monohydric alcohols will be used.

[0462] Preferably, the fatty substance is selected from triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, liquid C6 to C18 hydrocarbons, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0463] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise fatty substances in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, better still from 1% to 18% by weight, preferentially from 2% to 15% by weight and better still from 5% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0464] Additional Compounds Composition B used according to the invention advantageously comprises water, preferably in a concentration ranging from 50% to 95% by weight, for example from 55% to 90% by weight, in particular from 60% to 85% by weight and better still from 65% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0465] The pH of the composition may be from 2.5 to 8, in particular from 3 to 7, and even more preferably from 4 to 6.

[0466] The composition B used according to the invention is optionally liquid at 25° C. and 1 atmosphere, 1 ~C 6 Aliphatic or aromatic monoalcohols, C 2 ~C 8 Polyol, and C 3 ~C 7 The solvent may comprise one or more preferably hydrophilic (water-soluble or water-miscible) organic solvents, which may be chosen from polyol ethers. Advantageously, the organic solvent is C 2 ~C 4 It is chosen from mono-, di- or tri-diols, and may advantageously be chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, 1,2-propanediol (propylene glycol) and mixtures thereof.

[0467] Composition B used according to the present invention may also contain at least one or more standard cosmetic ingredients selected from the following: thickeners, gelling agents, sunscreens, antidandruff agents, antioxidants, chelating agents, reducing agents, oxidizing bases, couplers, oxidizing agents, direct dyes, hair straighteners, pearlescent and opacifying agents, mica, nacre, glitter flakes, plasticizers or coalescing agents, pigments, fillers, fragrances, basifying or acidifying agents, and silanes, all of which are different from the above-mentioned polymers.Those skilled in the art will pay attention to selecting the ingredients and their amounts contained in the composition, so as not to impair the properties of the composition of the present invention.

[0468] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the hair composition B used in the method according to the invention may comprise: - p=2 and R is optionally interrupted by a hydrogen atom or an -S-heteroatom and / or by hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH 2 Saturated, linear or branched (C 1 ~C 4 ) one or more compounds of amino acid type corresponding to formula (I) as defined above, in which R represents an alkyl group and, better still, R represents a hydrogen atom; (present in a total content of at least 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.7% to 8% by weight and better still from 0.8% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition); one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, and / or salts thereof, containing from 4 to 6 carbon atoms, from 1 to 3 OH groups and from 2 to 3 COOH groups, preferably present in a total content of at least 0.5% by weight, better from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 1% to 8% by weight and even better from 1.5% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; - optionally one or more associative polymers, preferably non-ionic, more preferably chosen from polyether polyurethanes; (preferably present in the composition in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferentially in the range from 0.05% to 5% by weight and even more preferentially in the range from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition); - optionally one or more silicones, preferably aminosilicones and mixtures thereof; (preferably present in a total content ranging from 0.3% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 4% by weight, preferentially from 0.6% to 3% by weight and even more preferentially from 0.7% to 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition); - optionally one or more cationic surfactants, preferably selected from those of formula (II), (V) and / or (VI) above, better still from those of formula (II) and / or (VI) above; (preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 8% by weight, preferentially from 0.3% to 7% by weight and even better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition); - optionally one or more cationic polymers, preferably selected from polymers of family (1) and / or cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic celluloses and / or galactomannan gums; (preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight and even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition); - optionally one or more non-ionic polysaccharides, in particular non-ionic guar gums, alone or in mixture, optionally modified by (poly)hydroxy(C1-C6)-alkyl groups; (preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight and even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition); optionally, one or more nonionic surfactants; preferably present in a content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight and preferentially from 0.2% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0469] C / the care or conditioning composition C applied in step (iii) The hair treatment method according to the invention comprises a step (iii), known as the hair care or conditioning step, which comprises applying to the hair a cosmetic care composition C comprising one or more conditioning agents selected from cationic surfactants, cationic polymers, silicones, fatty substances and mixtures thereof.

[0470] silicone Composition C used according to the invention may contain one or more silicones, which may in particular be chosen from aminosilicones, non-aminosilicones and mixtures thereof, and in particular one or more silicones, especially aminosilicones, chosen from those mentioned above for composition B.

[0471] Preferably, the aminosilicones, alone or in mixtures, are selected from: - aminosilicones of formula (II), preferably G is C 1 ~C 8 alkyl, where a=a'=0; the most preferred silicone of formula (II) is aminopropyl dimethicone sold under the name X-22-9686 by Shin-Etsu; - quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (IX) above; - aminosilicones of formula (XVIII) above, in particular those in which n is a number between 50 and 80; m is a number between 1 and 5; R''' are identical and are saturated linear alkyl groups containing 13 to 15 carbon atoms; and R' is -(CH 2 ) 3 -, -CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )-CH 2-or-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )-group; R″ is —(CH 2 ) 2 - Something that is based on something.

[0472] Advantageously, composition C used according to the invention may comprise silicones in a total content preferably ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.6% to 3% by weight and more preferentially from 0.7% to 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0473] Advantageously, composition C may contain amino and non-amino silicones in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.6% to 3% by weight and better still from 0.7% to 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0474] Cationic Surfactants Composition C according to the invention may comprise one or more cationic surfactants.

[0475] The cationic surfactant is a non-silicone surfactant, i.e., it does not contain Si-O groups.

[0476] They are preferably chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, or their salts and quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0477] The composition may comprise, alone or in admixture, one or more cationic surfactants selected from the following compounds which are quaternary ammonium salts: a compound corresponding to the following general formula (II): [ka] (In the formula, X - In particular, halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C 1 ~C 4) alkyl sulfate, (C 1 ~C 4 ) alkyl sulfonate or (C 1 ~C 4 ) an anion selected from the group of alkylarylsulfonates; R 1 ~R 4 The groups may be the same or different and represent linear or branched aliphatic or aromatic groups containing 1 to 30 carbon atoms, such as aryl or alkylaryl; R 1 ~R 4 At least one of the groups represents a linear or branched aliphatic group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0478] The aliphatic group may contain heteroatoms such as, inter alia, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and halogens. 1 ~C 30 Alkyl, C 1 ~C 30 Alkoxy, (C 2 ~C 6 ) Polyoxyalkylene, C 1 ~C 30 Alkylamide, (C 12 ~C 22 ) Alkylamide (C 2 ~C 6 ) alkyl, (C 12 ~C 22 ) alkyl acetate, and C 1 ~C 30 The radical is selected from hydroxyalkyl radicals.

[0479] Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (II), preference is given to tetraalkylammonium salts, such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group contains from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, and also palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salts or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium salts, such as those sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by the company VanDyk.

[0480] It is particularly preferred to use the chlorides, bromides or methyl sulfates of these compounds.

[0481] quaternary ammonium salts of imidazolines, for example those of formula (III): [ka] (In the formula, R 5 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, e.g., derived from tallow fatty acid; R 6 is a hydrogen atom, C 1 ~C 4 R represents an alkyl group, or an alkyl or alkenyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms; 7 is C 1 ~C 4 represents an alkyl group, R 8 is a hydrogen atom or C 1 ~C 4 represents an alkyl group, and X - is an anion selected from the group consisting of halide, phosphate, acetate, lactate, alkyl sulfate, alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonate groups, the alkyl and aryl groups containing 1 to 20 carbon atoms and 6 to 30 carbon atoms, respectively.

[0482] Preferably, R 5 and R 6 denotes a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing 12 to 21 carbon atoms, derived, for example, from tallow fatty acids, R 7 indicates a methyl group, and R 8 indicates a hydrogen atom.

[0483] Such a product is, for example, sold by Rewo under the name Rewoquat® W75.

[0484] quaternary di- or triammonium salts, in particular those of formula (V): [ka] (In the formula, R 9 represents an alkyl group containing about 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and / or optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms; R 10 is hydrogen or an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or (R 9a )(R 10a )(R 11a )N-(CH 2 ) 3 R may be the same or different and are selected from the group 9a , R 10a , R 11a , R 11 , R 12 , R 13 , and R 14 is selected from hydrogen or an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X - are halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C 1 ~C 4 ) alkyl sulfate, (C 1 ~C 4 ) alkyl sulfonates and (C 1 ~C 4) alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate, and ethyl sulfate.

[0485] Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P (Quaternium 89) marketed by Finetex, and Finquat CT (Quaternium 75) marketed by Finetex).

[0486] quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of formula (V): [ka] (In the formula, R 15 is C 1 ~C 6 Alkyl group and C 1 ~C 6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups; R 16 is the group R-C(O)-; linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 ~C 22 The group R, which is a hydrocarbon-based group 20 ; selected from a hydrogen atom; R 18 is the group R21-C(O)-; linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 ~C 6 The group R, which is a hydrocarbon-based group 22 ; selected from a hydrogen atom; R 17 , R 19 and R 21 may be the same or different, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 7 ~C 21 selected from a hydrocarbon-based group; r, s and t may be the same or different and have values ​​ranging from 2 to 6; y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10; x and z may be the same or different and have values ​​ranging from 0 to 10; X - is a simple or complex, organic or inorganic anion; However, the sum of x+y+z is between 1 and 15, and if x is 0, then R 16 is R 20 If z is 0, then R 18 is R 22 (represents).

[0487] Alkyl group R 15 can be linear or branched, more particularly linear. 15 represents a methyl group, an ethyl group, a hydroxyethyl group, or a dihydroxypropyl group, and more preferably represents a methyl group or an ethyl group.

[0488] Advantageously, the sum of x+y+z is between 1 and 10.

[0489] R 16 is a hydrocarbon group R 20 If it is, it may be long chain and contain 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or it may be short chain and contain 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0490] R 18 is a hydrocarbon-based group R 22 When it is, it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0491] Advantageously, R 17 , R 19 and R 21 may be the same or different, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 11 ~C 21 From the hydrocarbon group, more specifically, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 11 ~C 21 It is selected from alkyl and alkenyl groups.

[0492] Preferably, x and z, which may be the same or different, are equal to 0 or 1.

[0493] Advantageously, y is equal to one.

[0494] Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and more particularly equal to 2.

[0495] Anion X - is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulfate, more particularly methyl sulfate. However, it is possible to use methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, anions derived from organic acids, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion compatible with ammonium bearing an ester function. - is even more specifically the chloride or methyl sulfate.

[0496] In the composition according to the invention, R 15 represents a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1, z is equal to 0 or 1, and r, s and t are equal to 2; R 16 is R19-C(=O)-, methyl, ethyl or C 14 ~C 22 selected from the group consisting of a hydrocarbon group and a hydrogen atom; R 18 is selected from the group R21-C(=O)- and a hydrogen atom; R 17 , R 19 and R 21 may be the same or different, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 13 ~C 17 is selected from hydrocarbon-based groups, preferably linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 13 ~C 17 More particularly, ammonium salts of formula (V) selected from alkyl and alkenyl groups can be used.

[0497] Advantageously, the hydrocarbon-based group is linear.

[0498] Mention may be made, for example, of compounds of formula (V), such as diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium and monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium salts (especially chlorides or methyl sulfates), and mixtures thereof. These acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are more particularly derived from vegetable oils, such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be the same or different.

[0499] These products are, for example, optionally oxyalkylenated triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, 10 ~C 30 Fatty acids or C of plant or animal origin 10 ~C 30 They are obtained by direct esterification with a mixture of fatty acids or by transesterification of their methyl esters, followed by quaternization using alkylating agents such as alkyl halides (preferably methyl or ethyl halides), dialkyl sulfates (preferably methyl or ethyl sulfates), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl paratoluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin, or glycerol chlorohydrin.

[0500] Compounds of this type are sold, for example, under the name Dehyquart® by the company Henkel, under the name Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, under the name Noxamium® by the company CECA or under the name Rewoquat® WE 18 by the company Rewo-Witco.

[0501] The composition according to the invention may, for example, contain a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts, with the diester salt being in the majority by weight.

[0502] Ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, as described in US-A-4,874,554 and US-A-4,137,180, may also be used.

[0503] Behenoyl hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, sold under the name Quatarmin BTC 131 by KAO, can also be used.

[0504] Preferably, the ammonium salt containing at least one ester functional group contains two ester functional groups.

[0505] Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that may be used, it is preferred to use dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts.

[0506] The term "fatty amine" refers to a fatty amine that contains at least one primary, secondary, or tertiary amine group, optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated, or a salt thereof, and at least one C 6 ~C 30 , preferably C 8 ~C 30 It means a compound containing a hydrocarbon-based chain.

[0507] Preferably, the fatty amines for use according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0508] Fatty amines that may be mentioned include amidoamines. The amidoamines according to the invention may be chosen from fatty amidoamines, in which the fatty chain can be carried by an amine or amide group.

[0509] The term "amidoamine" refers to a compound that contains at least one amide group and at least one primary, secondary, or tertiary amine group.

[0510] The term "fatty amidoamine" generally refers to a fatty acid having at least one C 6 ~C 30 By amidoamines is meant those which contain a hydrocarbon-based chain. Preferably, the amidoamines for use according to the invention are not quaternized.

[0511] Preferably, the amidoamines for use according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0512] Among the fatty amidoamines for use according to the invention, mention may be made of amidoamines of the following formula (VI): RCONHR″N(R′) 2 (VI) (In the formula, R is a substituted or unsubstituted, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing 5 to 29, preferably 7 to 23, carbon atoms, in particular a linear or branched C 5 ~C 29 , preferably C 7 ~C 23 Alkyl group, or linear or branched C 5 ~C 29 , preferably C 7 ~C 23 represents an alkenyl group; - R'' represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably containing from 2 to 4 carbon atoms and better still containing 3 carbon atoms; R' may be the same or different and represents a substituted or unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl group).

[0513] The fatty amidoamines of formula (VI) are, for example, selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, in particular the product sold under the name Lexamine S13 by the Inolex Chemical Company, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, mincamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, talamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

[0514] Preferably, the fatty amidoamine is selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidpropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

[0515] The cationic surfactant is preferably selected from those of formula (II), (V) and / or (VI) above, and better still from those of formula (II) and / or (VI) above.

[0516] Preferentially, the cationic surfactant may be selected from salts such as the chlorides, bromides or methosulfates of tetraalkylammonium, such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts, whose alkyl group contains from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts; dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, such as dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methsulfate; and mixtures thereof.

[0517] More preferentially, they are chosen from cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

[0518] When they are present, the total content of cationic surfactants in composition C preferably ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.2% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 7% by weight and even better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0519] Cationic Polymer Composition C according to the invention may comprise one or more cationic polymers.

[0520] The term "cationic polymer" means a non-silicone (non-silicon) polymer that contains cationic groups and / or ionizable groups at the cationic groups and does not contain any anionic groups and / or ionizable groups at the anionic groups.

[0521] The cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a cationic charge density of less than or equal to 5 milliequivalents per gram (meq / g), better still less than or equal to 4 meq / g.

[0522] The cationic charge density of a polymer corresponds to the number of moles of cationic charge per unit mass of the polymer when the polymer is fully ionized. It can be determined by calculation if the structure of the polymer, i.e. the structure of the monomers that make up the polymer and their molar or mass ratios, is known. It can also be determined experimentally by the Kjeldahl method.

[0523] The cationic polymer that can be used is preferably about 500 to 5×10 6 , preferably about 10 3 ~3×10 6 It has a mass average molar mass (Mw) of

[0524] The cationic polymers that may be used are preferably non-associative.

[0525] Among the cationic polymers that may be used, mention may be made of:

[0526] (1) A homopolymer or copolymer derived from an acrylic or methacrylic ester or amide and containing at least one unit having the formula: [ka] (In the formula, - R 3 may be the same or different, and each represents a hydrogen atom or a CH 3 Indicate the group; - A may be the same or different and represent a linear or branched divalent alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms; - R 4 , R 5 and R 6 may be the same or different and represent an alkyl group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl group, preferably an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms; - R 1 and R 2may be the same or different and represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl; - X represents an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid, such as methosulfate, or a halide, such as chloride or bromide.

[0527] The copolymers of group (1) may also contain one or more units derived from a comonomer which may be selected from the group of acrylamide, methacrylamide, diacetone acrylamide, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted at the nitrogen with lower (C1-C4) alkyl, acrylic or methacrylic acid esters, vinyl lactams such as vinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl caprolactam, and vinyl esters.

[0528] Among these copolymers of group (1), mention may be made of the following: - copolymers of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or dimethyl halides, such as the products sold under the name Hercofloc by the company Hercules; - copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, such as the product sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by the company Ciba Geigy; - copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, such as those sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules; - quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold by the company ISP under the name Gafquat, for example the products known as Gafquat 734 or Gafquat 755 or Copolymer 845, 958 and 937; dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold by the company ISP under the name Gaffix VC 713; - Vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyl dimethylamine copolymers, such as the product sold under the name Styleze CC 10 by ISP; - quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS 100 by the company ISP; - preferably crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(C1-C4)alkyltri(C1-C4)alkylammonium salts, for example those obtained by homopolymerizing dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride or by copolymerizing acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. More particularly, crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymers (20 / 80 by weight) can be used in the form of a 50% by weight dispersion of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is sold under the name Salcare® SC 92 by the company Ciba. Crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymers, comprising about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or liquid esters, can also be used. These dispersions are sold under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by the company Ciba.

[0529] (2) Cationic polysaccharides, especially cationic cellulose and galactomannan gum. Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or derivatives grafted with water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomers, and cationic galactomannan gums.

[0530] Cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups are described in particular in French Patent No. 1 492 597. They are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammonium derivatives of hydroxyethylcellulose reacted with epoxides substituted with trimethylammonium groups.

[0531] Mention may in particular be made of the polymers sold under the names Ucare Polymer JR (JR400LT, JR125 and JR30M) or LR (LR400 and LR30M) by the company Amerchol.

[0532] Cationic cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomers are described in particular in US Patent 4,131,576; hydroxyalkylcelluloses grafted with methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salts, such as hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropylcelluloses, may be mentioned. Most particularly, crosslinked or non-crosslinked quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses, in which the quaternizing agent may in particular be diallyldimethylammonium chloride; most particularly, hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium hydroxyethylcelluloses may be mentioned.

[0533] Among the commercial products that meet this definition, mention may be made of the products sold under the names Celquat L200 and Celquat H100 by the company National Starch.

[0534] As a particularly preferred cationic cellulose, mention may in particular be made of the polymer having the INCI name Polyquaternium-10.

[0535] Cationic galactomannan gums are described in particular in US Pat. Nos. 3,589,578 and 4,031,307; cationic guar gums may be mentioned, in particular those containing cationic trialkylammonium groups, especially trimethylammonium. Mention may be made of guar gums modified with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salts (e.g. chloride).

[0536] Preferably, the guar gums have between 2% and 30% by number of their hydroxyl functions with trialkylammonium groups. More preferentially, these guar gums have between 5% and 20% by number of their hydroxyl functions with trialkylammonium groups in their branched chains. Among these trialkylammonium groups, mention may be made most particularly of the trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups. More preferentially, these groups represent between 5% and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified guar gum. According to the invention, guar gums modified with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride may be used.

[0537] Mention may in particular be made of products with the INCI name Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, such products being sold, for example, by the company Solvay under the names Jaguar C13S, Jaguar C15, Jaguar C17 and Jaguar C162.

[0538] Among the cationic polysaccharides that can be used, mention may be made of the cationic derivatives of cassia gum, especially those containing quaternary ammonium groups; in particular the product having the INCI name Cassia hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.

[0539] (3) Polymers formed from piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene groups, optionally containing straight or branched chains interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, or nitrogen atoms, or aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and the oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers.

[0540] (4) Water-soluble polyaminoamides, especially prepared by polycondensation of acidic compounds with polyamines; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with epihalohydrins, diepoxides, dianhydrides, unsaturated dianhydrides, bis-unsaturated derivatives, bis-halohydrins, bis-azetidiniums, bis-haloacyldiamines, bis-alkylhalides, or with oligomers resulting from the reaction of bifunctional compounds reactive with bis-halohydrins, bis-azetidiniums, bis-haloacyldiamines, bis-alkylhalides, epihalohydrins, diepoxides, or bis-unsaturated derivatives; the crosslinking agents are used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the amide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they contain one or more tertiary amine functions, they can also be quaternized.

[0541] (5) polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylenepolyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with bifunctional agents; for example, mention may be made of the adipic acid / dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl group contains 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably denoting methyl, ethyl or propyl. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylenetriamine polymers sold under the names Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz.

[0542] (6) Polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylenepolyamine containing two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid selected from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the molar ratio between the polyalkylenepolyamine and the dicarboxylic acid is preferably 0.8:1 to 1.4:1; and the resulting polyaminoamide is reacted with epichlorohydrin, the molar ratio of epichlorohydrin to the secondary amine groups of the polyaminoamide being preferably 0.5:1 to 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are in particular sold under the name Hercosett 57 by the company Hercules or, in the case of the adipic acid / epoxypropyl / diethylenetriamine copolymer, under the name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by the company Hercules.

[0543] (7) Cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium, for example homopolymers or copolymers which contain, as main chain constituents, units corresponding to formula (I) or (II): [ka] (In the formula, - k and t are 0 or 1, and the sum of k+t is 1; - R 12 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; - R 10 and R 11 are independent of each other, C 1 ~C 6 Alkyl group, C 1 ~C 5 Hydroxyalkyl group, C 1 ~C 4 represents an amidoalkyl group; or R 10 and R 11 may together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached represent a heterocyclic group (e.g., piperidyl or morpholinyl); R 10 and R 11 are, independently of one another, preferably 1 ~C 4represents an alkyl group; - Y - is an anion, for example, bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, or phosphate).

[0544] Mention may more particularly be made of the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium salts (e.g. chloride) sold, for example, under the name Merquat 100 by the company Nalco (INCI name polyquaternium-6), and in particular the copolymer of diallyldimethylammonium salts (e.g. chloride) and acrylamide (INCI name polyquaternium-7), sold under the names Merquat 550 or Merquat 7SPR.

[0545] (8) A diquaternary ammonium polymer comprising a repeating unit of the formula: [ka] (In the formula, - R 13 , R 14 , R 15 , and R 16 may be the same or different and are an aliphatic, alicyclic, or arylaliphatic group containing 1 to 20 carbon atoms, or 1 ~C 12 represents a hydroxyalkyl aliphatic group; Or R 13 , R 14 , R 15 , and R 16 together or separately, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, form a heterocycle which optionally contains a second non-nitrogen heteroatom; Or R 13 , R 14 , R 15 , and R 16 is a linear or branched C substituted with nitrile, ester, acyl, or amide. 1 ~C6 Alkyl group, or -CO-OR 17 -D group or -CO-NH-R 17 -D group (where R 17 is alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group; - A1 and B1 each represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated divalent polymethylene group containing 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may contain, be bonded to or have inserted in its main chain one or more aromatic rings, one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms, or one or more sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, -X - represents an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid; A 1 , R 13 , and R 15 may form a piperazine ring together with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached; Furthermore, when A1 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene group, B1 can also represent a (CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2)p- group, where n and p, which may be the same or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and D represents: a) a glycol residue of the formula -OZO-, where Z represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae: -(CH2CHO)x-CH2CH2- and -[CH2CH(CH3)O]y-CH2CH(CH3)-, where x and y represent integers from 1 to 4 representing a defined individual degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization; b) bis-secondary diamine residues, such as piperazine derivatives; c) bis-primary diamine residues of the formula -NH-Y-NH-, where Y represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical or the divalent radical -CH-CH-SS-CH-CH-; d) A ureylene group of the formula -NH-CO-NH-.

[0546] Preferably, X - is an anion, for example chloride or bromide. These polymers generally have a number-average molar mass (Mn) between 1000 and 100,000.

[0547] More particularly, a repeat unit corresponding to the formula: [ka] (wherein R1, R2, R3, and R4 may be the same or different and represent an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and X- is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid.) Examples of the polymers include those composed of

[0548] Particularly preferred compounds of formula (IV) are those in which R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , and R 4 represents a methyl group, n=3, p=6, and X=Cl, which is known as hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI (CTFA) nomenclature.

[0549] (9) Polyquaternary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula (V): [ka] (In the formula, - R 18 , R 19 , R 20 and R 21 may be the same or different and are a hydrogen atom, or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl, β-hydroxypropyl, or -CH 2 CH 2 (OCH 2 CH 2 ) p represents an OH group, p is equal to 0 or an integer from 1 to 6, with the proviso that R 18 , R 19 , R 20 and R21 does not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom, - r and s may be the same or different and are integers from 1 to 6; - q is 0 or an integer between 1 and 34; -X - indicates an anion such as a halide, - A represents a divalent dihalide group or preferably -CH 2 -CH 2 -O-CH 2 -CH 2 -).

[0550] Examples that may be mentioned include the products Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® AD1, Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175 sold by the company Miranol.

[0551] (10) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole, such as the products sold under the names Luviquat FC905, FC550 and FC370 by BASF.

[0552] (11) Polyamines, such as Polyquart® H sold by Cognis, which is designated in the CTFA Dictionary under the name Polyethylene Glycol (15) Tallow Polyamine.

[0553] (12) A polymer comprising in its structure: (a) one or more units corresponding to the following formula (A): [ka] (b) optionally, one or more units corresponding to formula (B): [ka]

[0554] In other words, these polymers may be chosen in particular from homopolymers or copolymers comprising one or more units deriving from vinylamine and, optionally, one or more units deriving from vinylformamide.

[0555] Preferably, these cationic polymers contain, in their structure, 5 mol % to 100 mol % of units corresponding to formula (A) and 0 to 95 mol % of units corresponding to formula (B), and are preferably selected from polymers containing 10 mol % to 100 mol % of units corresponding to formula (A) and 0 to 90 mol % of units corresponding to formula (B).

[0556] These polymers can be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide, which hydrolysis can be carried out in an acidic or basic medium.

[0557] The weight average molecular mass of said polymer, measured by light scattering, may be in the range of 1000 to 3000000 g / mol, preferably 10000 to 1000000, more particularly 100000 to 500000 g / mol.

[0558] Polymers comprising units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are in particular sold under the name Lupamin by the company BASF, for example, but not limited to, the products offered under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010.

[0559] Preferably, the cationic polymers that may be utilized in connection with the present invention are selected, alone or as mixtures, from cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic celluloses, such as Polyquaternium-10; cationic galactomannan gums, in particular cationic guar gum; and also mixtures thereof.

[0560] When present, composition C may contain cationic polymers in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight and even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0561] If present, composition C may contain cationic polysaccharides in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight and even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0562] fatty substances The composition C used according to the invention may comprise one or more non-silicone fatty substances which may be chosen from solid fatty substances, liquid fatty substances and mixtures thereof.

[0563] The term "non-silicone fatty material" means a fatty material that does not contain any Si-O bonds.

[0564] The term "solid fatty material" refers to a substance that is heated to a temperature of 1.013×10 5 It means a fatty substance having a melting point (at 25° C. / Pa) of greater than or equal to 25° C., preferably greater than or equal to 28° C. and preferentially greater than or equal to 30° C.

[0565] Advantageously, the solid fatty substances that can be used in the present invention can be neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0566] The solid fatty substances may be chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes and ceramides, and mixtures thereof.

[0567] The term "fatty acid" refers to long-chain carboxylic acids containing 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The solid fatty acids according to the invention preferably contain 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. The solid fatty acids that may be used in the present invention are selected in particular from myristic acid, cetyl acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0568] The term "fatty alcohol" refers to long-chain aliphatic alcohols containing 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and containing at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. Solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and contain 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH, where R represents a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, containing 8 to 40, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 30 carbon atoms, even more preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms, even more preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms. Solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from saturated and linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, (mono)alcohols containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, even more preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, even more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0569] The solid fatty alcohols which can be used can be selected from the following, either alone or in mixtures: - myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); - cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); - stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); - arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); - Behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); - lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); - seryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); - montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); - Myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0570] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol, more preferably the solid fatty alcohol is cetylstearyl alcohol.

[0571] The solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably 9 ~C 26 from fatty carboxylic acids and / or C 9 ~C 26 The ester is selected from esters formed from fatty alcohols.

[0572] Preferably, these solid fatty esters are esters of linear or branched saturated carboxylic acids containing at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more particularly 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and esters of linear or branched saturated monohydric alcohols containing at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more particularly 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

[0573] Esters of C4 to C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids with C1 to C22 alcohols, and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids with C2 to C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

[0574] In particular, mention may be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate and mixtures thereof.

[0575] Preferably, the solid ester of a fatty acid and / or a fatty alcohol is palmitic acid C 9 ~C 26 Alkyl, especially myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitate; myristic acid C 9 ~C 26 Alkyl myristate, such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; stearate C 9 ~C 26 alkyl stearate, especially myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate and stearyl stearate; and mixtures thereof.

[0576] Particularly preferably, the solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols are selected from myristyl stearate, myristyl palmitate and mixtures thereof.

[0577] For the purposes of the present invention, waxes are lipophilic compounds that are solid at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure, have a reversible solid / liquid state change, have a melting point above about 40° C. and may be up to 200° C., and have an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state. In general, the size of the wax crystals is such that they diffract and / or scatter light, giving a more or less opaque, cloudy appearance to the composition containing them. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but returning the temperature of the mixture to room temperature results in a recrystallization of the wax (white opacity) that is microscopically and macroscopically detectable.

[0578] In particular, waxes suitable for use in the present invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable or mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof.

[0579] Mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon-based waxes, such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cera bellina), lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, spermaceti; cork fibre or sugarcane wax, olive tree wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, espartograss wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and Haze wax, floral absolute waxes; montan wax, orange wax, lemon wax, microcrystalline wax, paraffin, petroleum jelly, lignite and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by the Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, waxy copolymers and their esters.

[0580] Microwax HW etc. 2 ~C 60 Microcrystalline waxes may also be mentioned.

[0581] Mention may also be made of MW 500 polyethylene wax sold under the trade name Permalen 50-L Polyethylene.

[0582] Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils containing linear or branched C8 to C32 fatty chains. Among these waxes, mention may be made of isomerized jojoba oils, such as trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular the product manufactured or sold under the name Iso-Jojoba-50® by the company Desert Whale, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, in particular the product sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene.

[0583] Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax Castor 16L64® and 22L73® by the company Sofim, may also be used.

[0584] Also usable waxes are C 1 20 ~C 40 Alkyl(hydroxystearyloxy)stearates (wherein the alkyl group contains 20 to 40 carbon atoms). Such waxes are sold in particular under the names Kester Wax K82P®, HydroxypolyesterK82P® and Kester Wax K80P® by the company Koster Keunen.

[0585] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; mention may be made in particular of carnauba microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 350® by Micro Powders, synthetic wax microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 114S® by Micro Powders, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as the products sold under the name MicroCare 300® and 310® by Micro Powders, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 325® by Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the name Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by Micro Powders, and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the name Microslip 519® and 519L® by Micro Powders.

[0586] The wax is preferably selected from mineral waxes, such as paraffin, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite wax; vegetable waxes, such as cocoa butter, shea butter or cork fibre or sugarcane wax, olive tree wax, rice bran wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, ouricury wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, espartograss wax or floral absolute waxes, such as the essential wax of blackcurrant flowers sold by Bertin (France); waxes of animal origin, such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cera bellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, microcrystalline waxes, and mixtures thereof.

[0587] Ceramides or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides which may be used in the compositions according to the invention are known and may in particular be mentioned as ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the Dawning classification.

[0588] The ceramide or analogue thereof that may be used preferably corresponds to the following formula: [ka] (In the formula, - R 1 is C 14 ~C 30 Denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from a fatty acid, which is substituted with a hydroxyl group at the alpha position or a hydroxyl group at the omega position, and which is a saturated or unsaturated C 16 ~C 30 Capable of being esterified with fatty acids; - R 2 is a hydrogen atom or (glycosyl) n Group, (galactosyl) m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, n is an integer of 1 to 4, and m is an integer of 1 to 8; - R 3 is saturated or unsaturated C 15 ~C 26 represents a hydrocarbon-based group, in which, in the alpha position, this group has one or more C 1 ~C 14 may be substituted with alkyl groups; In the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 can also represent a C15-C26 α-hydroxyalkyl group, it being understood that the hydroxyl group is optionally esterified with a C16-C30 α-hydroxy acid.

[0589] Preferably, ceramides are used in which R1 represents a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from a C14 to C30 fatty acid; R2 represents a galactosyl group or a sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 represents a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3 group.

[0590] Particularly preferred ceramides are 1 C 16 ~C 22 R represents a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from a fatty acid; 2 indicates a hydrogen atom, and R 3 Saturated or unsaturated linear C 15 It is a compound showing the group.

[0591] R 1 C 12 ~C 22 R represents a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from a fatty acid; 2 represents a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R 3 Saturated or unsaturated C 12 ~C 22 Hydrocarbon-based groups, preferably -CH=CH-(CH 2 ) 12 -CH 3 Compounds exhibiting the group may also be used.

[0592] Particularly preferred compounds are 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-oleylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxypalmitoyl]aminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3,4-triol, in particular N-stearoylphytosphingosine. , 2-N-palmitoylaminohexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl-N-methyl-D-glucamine, cetyl acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide, and bis(N-hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine will also be used.

[0593] Liquid fatty substances which may be used include liquid hydrocarbons, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, triglyceride type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, mineral oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0594] Liquid fatty substances are heated at atmospheric pressure (1.013×10 5 It has a melting point (at 1 Pa) of less than or equal to 25° C., preferably less than or equal to 20° C. Advantageously, the liquid fatty substance is not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0595] It is to be recalled that fatty alcohols, fatty esters and fatty acids contain more particularly at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, hydrocarbon-based group containing from 6 to 40, better still from 8 to 30, carbon atoms and optionally substituted, in particular with one or more, in particular with 1 to 4, hydroxyl groups. If unsaturated, these compounds may contain 1 to 3 conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0596] Liquid hydrocarbons are 6 ~C 18 and is a liquid hydrocarbon of the formula C, which may be linear, branched or optionally cyclic, and is preferably 8 ~C 16 , especially C 10 ~C 14 Examples of such alkanes include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane or isoparaffins such as isohexadecane or isodecane, and mixtures thereof.

[0597] The liquid hydrocarbons may also be chosen from those containing more than 16 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin; mention may be made of liquid paraffin or liquid petroleum jelly, polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.

[0598] The triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin may preferably be chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric triglycerides, such as those sold by the company Stearinerie Dubois or under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0599] The liquid fatty alcohol may be selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols containing from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, examples of which include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0600] With regard to the liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than the above-mentioned triglycerides, in particular saturated or unsaturated linear C 1 ~C 26 Or branched C 3 ~C 26 Aliphatic mono- or poly-acids and saturated or unsaturated linear C 1 ~C 26 Or branched C 3 ~C 26 Mention may be made of esters with aliphatic monohydric or polyhydric alcohols, the total number of carbon atoms in the ester being 6 or more, and more preferably 10 or more.

[0601] For esters of monoalcohols, preferably at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

[0602] Among the monoesters, dihydroabietyl behenate, octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, isostearyl lactate, lauryl lactate, linoleyl lactate, oleyl lactate, isostearyl octanoate, isocetyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, decyl oleate, isocetyl isostearate, isocetyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl octanoate, isodecyl oleate, isononyl isononanoate, isostearyl palmitate, a Included are methyl cetylricinoleate, octyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, octyldodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, isobutyl stearate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

[0603] Preferably, among the monoesters of monovalent acids and monohydric alcohols, ethyl palmitate or isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates, such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, and isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof, will be used.

[0604] In connection with this variant, esters of C4 to C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids with C1 to C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids with C2 to C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

[0605] Among others, diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyloxystearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate Included may be mentioned: thrityl; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and polyethylene glycol distearate; and mixtures thereof.

[0606] The composition may also contain, as fatty esters, sugar esters and diesters of C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22, fatty acids. It should be recalled that the term "sugar" refers to oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds having several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and containing at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

[0607] Examples of suitable sugars include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0608] The sugar esters of fatty acids may in particular be selected from the group comprising esters or mixtures of esters of the abovementioned sugars with linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22 fatty acids. If unsaturated, these compounds may contain 1 to 3 conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0609] The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0610] These esters include, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, coconut oil fatty acid esters, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonic acid esters, or mixtures thereof, in particular mixed esters such as oleopalmitate, oleostearate, and palmitostearate.

[0611] More particularly, mono- and diesters are used, in particular the mono- or dioleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate and oleostearate of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.

[0612] One example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0613] Preferably, liquid esters of monobasic acids and monohydric alcohols will be used.

[0614] Preferably, the fatty substances present in composition C are selected from triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, liquid C6 to C18 hydrocarbons, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0615] Preferably, composition C may comprise fatty substances in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, better still from 1% to 18% by weight, preferentially from 2% to 15% and even better still from 5% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0616] Additional Compounds The composition C used according to the invention advantageously comprises water, preferably in a concentration ranging from 50% to 95% by weight, for example from 55% to 90% by weight, in particular from 60% to 85% by weight and better still from 65% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0617] The pH of the composition may be from 2.5 to 8, in particular from 3 to 7, and even more preferably from 4 to 6.

[0618] The composition C used according to the invention is optionally liquid at 25° C. and 1 atmosphere, 1 ~C 6 Aliphatic or aromatic monoalcohols, C 2 ~C 8 Polyol, and C 3 ~C 7 The solvent may comprise one or more preferably hydrophilic (water-soluble or water-miscible) organic solvents, which may be chosen from polyol ethers. Advantageously, the organic solvent is C 2 ~C 4 It is chosen from mono-, di- or tri-diols, and may advantageously be chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, 1,2-propanediol (propylene glycol) and mixtures thereof.

[0619] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention and are not limiting in nature. Unless otherwise indicated, all amounts are given in mass % of active material relative to the total mass of the composition (g % AM). EXAMPLES

[0620] Example 1 The following compositions according to the invention were prepared from the components shown in the table below (g % AM).

[0621] [Table 1]

[0622] The composition is in the form of a lotion and can advantageously be used without rinsing after shampooing and before using a mask or a hair conditioner.

[0623] This routine provides detangling by adding care and strength (body and mass effect). This process gives hair strengthening properties.

[0624] The reinforcement is measured using DSC techniques.

[0625] (i) Preparation of hair locks The measurements are carried out on hair tresses which have been previously bleached manually and which have been treated once according to the following protocol: the tresses are washed with a neutral shampoo containing anionic and amphoteric surfactants, then rinsed, 2 g of the composition of the above example is applied to each of 5.7 g of hair tresses, the treatment is left for 5 minutes, then rinsed again and finally a conventional hair mask containing at least one conditioning agent is applied.

[0626] (ii) Measurement method The Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) technique is known to those skilled in the art as a method for quantifying the protein enrichment in the cortex of keratin fibers (Kinetics of the changes imparted to the main structural components of human hair by thermal treatment, F.-J. Wortmann and H. Deutz, J. Appl.Polym Sci.,48,137(1993). The principle of this test is to measure the protein denaturation temperature. It is widely accepted that the higher the protein denaturation temperature, the better the protein integrity of the cortex, which reflects in a reduction of fiber breakage.

[0627] The denaturation temperature is directly related to the bond density of the keratin proteins present in the cortex. Thus, the lower the denaturation temperature, the lower the bond density between the proteins: the disulfide bridges will be broken and the cortex will be damaged. A difference of 2°C is recognized by those skilled in the art as a significant variation.

[0628] The instrument used for the measurements is a TA Instruments DSC Q20 reference instrument. This instrument measures the energy flow during heating of the sample. The temperature of maximum energy flow represents the denaturation temperature.

[0629] (iii) Results The results of the measurements of the denaturation temperature (Td) for each of the hair tresses treated according to the above protocol are summarized in the table below and correspond to the average of three measurements performed on one hair tress.

[0630] [Table 2]

[0631] These results show that the method according to the invention increases the bond density of the keratin proteins present in the cortex of the treated hair, thus allowing the repair of damaged hair.

[0632] Example 2 The following compositions according to the invention were prepared from the components shown in the table below (g % AM).

[0633] [Table 3]

[0634] The composition is in the form of a lotion and can advantageously be used without rinsing after shampooing and before using a mask or a hair conditioner.

[0635] This composition can be used to detangle hair by adding care, shine and strength (body and mass effect).

[0636] The hair is believed to be softer, moisturized, shinier, stronger and less prone to breakage.

[0637] This composition therefore has strengthening properties and reduces the calcium content of the hair fibre after application.

[0638] The reinforcement is measured by DSC according to the method described above.

[0639] The measurements are carried out on hair tresses which have been previously bleached manually and then treated 5 (or 10) times according to the following protocol: the tresses are washed with a conventional mild shampoo, then rinsed, 2 g of the composition according to the invention are applied per 5.7 g of hair tress, then, without rinsing, 2 g of a conventional hair mask is applied, the mask is left for 5 minutes and then rinsed again.

[0640] This routine according to the invention is compared with the following comparative routine (without application of the composition according to the invention): the hair lock is washed with a conventional mild shampoo, then rinsed, 2 g of a conventional hair mask (identical to the routine according to the invention) is applied, the mask is left for 5 minutes and then rinsed.

[0641] The following results are obtained (average of 3 measurements per tress):

[0642] [Table 4]

[0643] These results show that the method according to the invention increases the bond density of the keratin proteins present in the cortex of the treated hair, thus allowing the repair of damaged hair.

[0644] Calcium analysis by X-ray fluorescence according to the RC-ANA-MET-1414 method. These measurements are taken on locks treated according to the routine of the present invention and on tresses treated according to the comparative routine described above.

[0645] The following result is obtained:

[0646] [Table 5]

[0647] Thus, hair tresses treated according to the present invention show a significant reduction in calcium levels after application.

Claims

1. A method for cosmetically treating hair, comprising: a washing step (i) of said hair comprising applying a cleaning cosmetic composition A comprising one or more anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, followed by - step (ii) of applying to said hair a cosmetic composition B comprising one or more amino acid type compounds and one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts, followed by - a conditioning step (iii) of said hair, comprising applying a cosmetic care composition C comprising one or more conditioning agents chosen from cationic surfactants, cationic polymers, silicones, fatty substances and mixtures thereof; A method comprising:

2. The amino acid type compound has the formula (I): 【Chemistry 1】 where p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, it is understood that: - when p=1, R together with the nitrogen atom form a saturated heterocycle containing 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 ring members, which ring is not bound to a hydroxyl or (C １ ~C ４ ) alkyl; When p=2, R is a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear or branched (C １ ~C １２ ) alkyl, preferably (C １ ~C ４ ) alkyl group, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)-, and / or hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH ２ ), -SH, -COOH, -CONH ２ , or -NH-C(NH)-NH ２ and optionally substituted with one or more groups selected from Preferably, when p=2, R is a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear or branched (C １ ~C ４ ) alkyl group, optionally interrupted by a heteroatom -S-, and / or optionally hydroxyl, amino, or -NH-C(NH)-NH ２ and more preferably p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom) and / or a salt thereof, in particular an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salt or a zinc salt.

3. 3. The method according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the compound of amino acid type is selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts, in particular the alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or zinc salts, and mixtures thereof, preferentially selected from glycine, its salts, in particular the alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or zinc salts, and mixtures thereof.

4. 4. The method according to claim 1, wherein the total content of compounds of amino acid type is between 0.5% and 10% by weight, in particular between 0.7% and 8% by weight and better still between 0.8% and 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. 5. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the composition comprises one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising 4 to 6 carbon atoms, 1 to 3 OH groups and 2 to 3 COOH groups; and / or salts thereof, in particular the alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or zinc salts; preferably selected from lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid, and salts thereof, in particular the alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts; most particularly citric acid and / or tartaric acid, and salts thereof, in particular the alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, such as sodium citrate and / or sodium tartrate; and better still citric acid or a salt thereof, in particular the alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, such as sodium citrate.

6. 6. The method according to claim 1, wherein the total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids containing in total from 2 to 8 carbon atoms and / or salts thereof ranges from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 1% to 8% by weight and better still from 1.5% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. 7. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the composition comprises one or more associative polymers, preferably non-ionic and preferentially chosen from polyether polyurethanes, in particular in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight and more preferentially from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. 8. The method according to claim 1, wherein the composition comprises one or more silicones, preferably chosen from aminosilicones, in a total content ranging from 0.3% to 5% by weight, better from 0.5% to 4% by weight, preferentially from 0.6% to 3% by weight and more preferentially from 0.7% to 2.5% by weight, in particular relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. 9. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the composition comprises one or more cationic surfactants in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 8% by weight, more preferentially from 0.3% to 7% by weight and even better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight, in particular relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. 10. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the composition comprises one or more cationic polymers, preferably chosen from cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic cellulose, cationic galactomannan gum, in particular cationic guar gum; and also mixtures thereof, in particular in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight and even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. The composition preferably comprises, in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight and even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular consisting of, alone or in mixtures, cellulose, galactomannans and their non-ionic derivatives, in particular their ethers; and even better still, alone or in mixtures, optionally (poly)hydroxy(C １ ~C ６ ) nonionic guar gums modified with alkyl groups, in particular hydroxypropyl groups, and / or substituted or unsubstituted celluloses and cellulose ethers, for example (C １ ~C ４ ) alkyl cellulose and (poly)hydroxy (C １ ~C ４ ) alkylcelluloses; preferably, alone or in admixture, (poly)hydroxy(C １ ~C ６ 11. The method according to claim 1, further comprising the step of: (a) administering to said subject a composition comprising one or more non-ionic polysaccharides selected from the group consisting of non-ionic guar gums, optionally modified by alkyl groups, in particular hydroxypropyl groups.

12. 12. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises one or more nonionic surfactants, in particular in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight and preferentially from 0.2% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

13. The composition preferably comprises a triglyceride oil, preferably of vegetable or synthetic origin, a liquid ester of a fatty acid and / or a fatty alcohol other than a triglyceride, liquid C, in a total amount ranging in particular from 0.1% to 20% by weight, better from 1% to 18% by weight, preferentially from 2% to 15% by weight and better from 5% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. ６ ~C １８ 13. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 12, comprising one or more non-silicone fatty substances selected from hydrocarbons, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

14. 14. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 13 for treating hair, in particular for washing and / or conditioning sensitized, brittle and / or damaged hair or hair which is loaded with metals in a content of at least 100 ppm, better at least 200 ppm, in particular with a copper content of at least 100 ppm, better at least 200 ppm, and / or with a calcium content of at least 4000 ppm, better at least 10000 ppm.

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