Water-soluble cosmetic composition containing 1-8% amino acid and at least 3% hydroxylated polycarboxylic acid and cosmetic treatment method

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, preferably for hair, comprising 1-8% by weight of an amino acid-based compound, at least 3% by weight of a hydroxylated polycarboxylic acid containing 2-8 carbon atoms and / or a salt thereof and 50-95% by weight of water. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method, in particular for washing and / or conditioning the hair, using said composition.

Description

[Technical field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, particularly for hair, which comprises one or more compounds of the amino acid series and one or more hydroxycarboxylic acids in specific ratios.The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method using said composition. [Background technology]

[0002] Consumers worldwide generally come into contact with a wide variety of water sources that are not without impacts on hair, particularly with regard to the cosmetic properties of hair and / or the performance qualities of hair care products.

[0003] "Mineral" water contains varying amounts of minerals present in the form of dissolved ions, such as, for example, calcite (present in the form of calcium), dolomite (present in the form of calcium and magnesium), magnetite (present in the form of iron) and tambon (present in the form of copper). "Hard" water also has a high concentration of minerals such as calcium and magnesium, and swimming pool water, in this regard, has a high concentration of copper salts resulting from the aldicides used in the treatment of swimming pools.

[0004] Hair has a strong tendency to absorb these minerals and / or their metal salts due to the presence of anionic functional groups on the surface of hair, particularly those corresponding to the sulfonic acid or carboxylic acid functional groups of keratin. Furthermore, the isoelectric point of individual hair is generally said to be between 3.2 and 4. As a result, in daily life, the pH of the water given to hair is higher than the aforementioned value, which results in negatively charged fibers.

[0005] Minerals, many of which are multivalent cations, will therefore be attracted by these negatively charged fibers and trapped by the formation of chemical bonds, preventing the minerals from being released by conventional hair treatment methods. This can lead to a build-up of minerals on the hair over time. Said build-up depends not only on the hardness of the water, the frequency and / or duration of exposure of the hair to the water in question, but also on the nature and length of the hair (particularly its porosity and charge) and the state of damage.

[0006] The accumulation of these minerals and / or their metal salts can lead to alterations of the hair fibre, in particular to more or less noticeable alterations of the cosmetic properties of individual hairs. Thus, the accumulation of calcium and magnesium can lead to dull, dry hair, whereas the accumulation of copper can lead to hair that turns green.

[0007] In addition, the accumulation of metal (e.g. iron, copper) salts can promote damage to the hair by catalysing oxidation / reduction reactions and generating hydroxyl radicals HO° which can be harmful to keratin fibres even in low concentrations.

[0008] This can result in photodegradation of the fibers, lightening of the fibers and even detrimental changes in the properties of the hair, which can lead to premature breakage of individual hairs, phenomena observed especially during the subsequent use of lightening or hair dye products.

[0009] In other words, hair may become less resistant, may become weaker, may actually break even more easily or may become even less lustrous due to the accumulation of minerals and / or their metal salts.

[0010] There is therefore a real need to develop useful compositions that make it possible to prevent the accumulation of metal ions due to minerals and metal salts dissolved in the water, and in fact even to extract them from the keratin fibers, in order to limit their adverse effects and overcome all of the above-mentioned drawbacks. Summary of the Invention [Means for solving the problem]

[0011] The composition and its uses which are the subject of the present invention make it possible to achieve this aim.

[0012] A subject of the invention is therefore (i) one or more compounds of the amino acid type selected from the compounds corresponding to formula (I) below and / or salts thereof, present in a total content ranging from 1 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, (ii) one or more hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids and / or salts thereof containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, present in a total content of at least 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and (iii) A cosmetic composition, preferably for hair, containing water at a concentration in the range of 50 to 95% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0013] It has been found that the composition according to the invention makes it possible to improve the resistance of the hair to breakage, to strengthen the hair and moreover to significantly limit the deterioration or loss of gloss, an undesirable effect prone to be caused by the presence of metal ions, in particular copper or calcium ions, in said fibers.

[0014] After application of the composition, the fibers appear to be reinforced, said reinforcement improving with successive applications of the composition.

[0015] It has also been found that the compositions according to the invention also contribute conditioning properties to the hair, in particular smoothness, softness, shine and ease of detangling, and make it possible to do so whilst contributing to the strength, density and volumising effect of the hair.

[0016] The compositions according to the invention find a very particular application in the cleaning and / or conditioning of keratinous fibres which have become sensitive, weakened and / or damaged as a result of cosmetic treatments, in particular physical (repeated brushing) and / or chemical treatments, such as hair dyeing, bleaching, perming and / or straightening.

[0017] The compositions according to the invention are also particularly suitable for cosmetic treatment, in particular for cleaning and / or conditioning keratin fibres which in particular have residual metals, in particular calcium and / or copper, in particular with a content of at least 100 ppm, more preferably at least 200 ppm, in particular copper with a content of at least 100 ppm, more preferably at least 200 ppm, and / or calcium with a content of at least 4000 ppm, more preferably at least 10000 ppm.

[0018] In the text below, unless stated otherwise, the boundaries of value ranges are encompassed within the ranges, in particular by the expressions "between" and "in the range from... to".

[0019] Additionally, as used herein, the phrase "at least one" is synonymous with and may be substituted for the phrase "one or more." DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

[0020] Amino acid compounds The compositions according to the invention comprise one or more compounds of the amino acid series selected from the compounds corresponding to formula (I) below and / or salts thereof:

[0021] The amino acid based compound may therefore correspond to the formula (I): [ka] where p is an integer equal to 1 or 2; When p=1, R and the nitrogen atom form a saturated heterocycle containing 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 ring members, which ring is preferably substituted with a hydroxyl or (C 1 ~C 4 ) alkyl; When p=2, R is a hydrogen atom or is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or is optionally selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH 2 ), -SH, -COOH, -CONH 2 or -NH-C(NH)-NH 2 Saturated, linear or branched (C 1 ~C 12 ) alkyl, preferably (C 1 ~C 4 ) alkyl group.

[0022] Preferably, when p=1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle containing 5 ring members, which ring is not substituted.

[0023] Preferably, p=2.

[0024] Preferably, when p=2, R is a hydrogen atom or optionally interrupted by an -S-heteroatom and / or optionally hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH 2 Saturated, linear or branched (C 1 ~C 4 ) represents an alkyl group.

[0025] Preferentially, p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom.

[0026] The amino acid based compound may be a salt of the compound of formula (I). These salts include salts with organic or inorganic bases, such as alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium or potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts, such as magnesium or calcium salts, and zinc salts.

[0027] The amino acid based compounds may be in the form of optical isomers in the L, D or DL ​​configuration, preferably the L configuration.

[0028] As examples according to the invention of compounds in the form of optical isomers of the L configuration, mention may be made of L-proline, L-methionine, L-serine, L-arginine and L-lysine.

[0029] Preferably, the amino acid based compound according to the invention is selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts (especially the alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or zinc salts) and mixtures thereof.

[0030] Preferably, the amino acid based compound according to the present invention is selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, salts thereof and mixtures thereof.

[0031] More preferably, the amino acid compound is selected from glycine, its salts (especially the alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or zinc salts) and mixtures thereof.

[0032] Glycine salts according to the present invention may include sodium glycine, zinc glycine, calcium glycine, magnesium glycine, manganese glycine and potassium glycine, with sodium glycine or potassium glycine being preferred.

[0033] Preferably, the amino acid based compound is glycine.

[0034] The total content of amino acid-based compounds corresponding to formula (I) present in the composition according to the invention is between 1 and 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, which may range from 1.1% to 8% by weight, more preferably from 1.2% to 7% by weight or even from 1.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0035] Desirably, the total content of amino acid compounds selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, salts thereof and mixtures thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 1% by mass to 8% by mass, in particular 1.1% by mass to 8% by mass, more desirably 1.2% by mass to 7% by mass, or even 1.5% by mass to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0036] Most particularly, the total content of amino acid compounds selected from glycine, its salts and mixtures thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 1% by mass to 8% by mass, in particular 1.1% by mass to 8% by mass, more preferably 1.2% by mass to 7% by mass or even 1.5% by mass to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0037] More preferably, the glycine content in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 1% to 8% by weight, in particular 1.1% to 8% by weight, more preferably 1.2% to 7% by weight or even 1.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0038] Hydroxypolycarboxylic acids The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms and / or salts thereof.

[0039] These polyacids are different from the amino acid based compounds described above.

[0040] The polyacid comprises at least two COOH groups (in acid or salt form), and the polyacid may therefore comprise two or three or more COOH groups (in acid or salt form), preferably two or three COOH groups.

[0041] The polyacid also contains at least one OH group, but may contain several thereof, in particular 2 to 3 OH groups.

[0042] Preferably, the polyacids contain a total of 4 to 6 carbon atoms and their hydrocarbon-based chains are saturated and linear.

[0043] Advantageously, the hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids and / or salts thereof contain in total 4 to 6 carbon atoms, 1 to 3 OH groups and 2 to 3 COOH groups (in acid or salt form).

[0044] The salts of these polyvalent acids include salts with organic or inorganic bases, such as alkali metal salts, for example lithium, sodium or potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts, for example magnesium or calcium salts, and zinc salts. The alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, especially the sodium salt, are preferred.

[0045] Preferably, the hydroxylated polycarboxylic acid or its salt is selected from α-hydroxy acids and their salts, in particular tartaric acid or citric acid and its salts, in particular the alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, such as sodium citrate and / or sodium tartrate, more preferably citric acid or its salts, in particular the alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, such as sodium citrate.

[0046] The total content of hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids and / or salts thereof containing a total of 2 to 8 carbon atoms present in the composition according to the invention is at least 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, which may range from 3% to 10% by weight, in particular from 3.5% to 8% by weight and more preferably from 3.8% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0047] In particular, the total content of hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids or salts thereof containing a total of 4 to 6 carbon atoms, 1 to 3 OH groups and 2 or 3 COOH groups present in the composition according to the invention may be in the range of 3% to 10% by weight, in particular 3.5% to 8% by weight, more preferably 3.8% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0048] Most particularly, the total content of hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids chosen from tartaric acid or citric acid and their salts, in particular the alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, in the composition according to the invention may range from 3% to 10% by weight, in particular from 3.5% to 8% by weight and more preferably from 3.8% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0049] More preferably, the content of citric acid and / or a salt thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 3% by mass to 10% by mass, in particular 3.5% by mass to 8% by mass, and more preferably 3.8% by mass to 6% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0050] Cationic Polymer The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more cationic polymers.

[0051] The term "cationic polymer" refers to any non-silicone (not containing any silicon atoms) polymer that contains cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized to cationic groups and does not contain any anionic groups and / or groups that can be ionized to anionic groups.

[0052] Cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a cationic charge density of less than or equal to 5 milliequivalents per gram (meq / g), more desirably less than or equal to 4 meq / g.

[0053] The cationic charge density of a polymer corresponds to the number of moles of cationic charge per unit mass of the polymer when the polymer is fully ionized. It can be determined by calculation if the structure of the polymer, i.e. the structure of the monomers that make up the polymer and their molar or mass ratios, is known. It can also be determined experimentally by the Kjeldahl method.

[0054] The cationic polymer that may be used is preferably about 500 to 5×10 6 , preferably about 10 3 ~3×10 6 It has a mass average molar mass (Mw) of

[0055] The cationic polymers that may be used are preferably non-associative.

[0056] Among the cationic polymers that may be used, mention may be made of the following: (1) A homopolymer or copolymer derived from an acrylic or methacrylic acid ester or amide, comprising at least one unit having the formula: [ka] During the ceremony, -R 3 may be the same or different, and each represents a hydrogen atom or a CH 3 Indicate the group; -A may be the same or different and represents a linear or branched divalent alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms; -R 4 , R 5 and R 6 may be the same or different and represent an alkyl group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl group, preferably an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms; -R 1 and R 2 may be the same or different and represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl; -X represents an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid, such as methosulfate anion, or a halide, such as chloride or bromide.

[0057] The copolymers of group (1) may also contain one or more units derived from a comonomer which may be selected from the group of acrylamide, methacrylamide, diacetone acrylamide, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted at the nitrogen with lower (C1-C4) alkyl, acrylic or methacrylic acid esters, vinyl lactams such as vinyl pyrrolidone or vinyl caprolactam, and vinyl esters. Among these copolymers of group (1), mention may be made of: - copolymers of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or dimethyl halides, such as the products sold under the name Hercofloc by the company Hercules; copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example the product sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by the company Ciba Geigy; copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, for example the products sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules; quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold by the company ISP under the name Gafquat, for example Gafquat 734 or Gafquat 755 or the products known alternatively as Copolymer 845, 958 and 937; dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold by the company ISP under the name Gaffix VC 713; - vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyl dimethylamine copolymers, such as the product sold under the name Styleze CC 10 by ISP; quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS 100 by the company ISP; - preferably crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(C1-C4)alkyltri(C1-C4)alkylammonium salts, for example those obtained by homopolymerizing dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride or by copolymerizing acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. More particularly, crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymers (20 / 80 by weight) may be used in the form of a 50% by weight dispersion of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is sold under the name Salcare® SC 92 by the company Ciba. Crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymers may also be used, comprising approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or liquid esters. These dispersions are sold under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by the company Ciba.

[0058] (2) Cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic cellulose and galactomannan gums. Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or derivatives grafted with water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomers, and cationic galactomannan gums.

[0059] Cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups are specifically described in FR 1492597 and they are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammonium derivatives of hydroxyethylcellulose reacted with epoxides substituted with trimethylammonium groups.

[0060] Mention may in particular be made of the polymers sold under the names Ucare Polymer JR (JR400LT, JR125 and JR30M) or LR (LR400 and LR30M) by the company Amerchol.

[0061] Cationic cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomers are described in particular in US Patent 4,131,576, and may include hydroxyalkylcelluloses grafted with methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salts, such as hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropylcellulose.Most particularly may include crosslinked or non-crosslinked quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses, most particularly hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium hydroxyethylcelluloses, in which the quaternizing agent may in particular be diallyldimethylammonium chloride.

[0062] Among the commercial products that meet this definition, mention may be made of the products sold under the names Celquat L200 and Celquat H100 by the company National Starch.

[0063] As a particularly preferred cationic cellulose, mention may in particular be made of the polymer having the INCI name Polyquaternium-10.

[0064] Cationic galactomannan gums are described in particular in US Patent Nos. 3,589,578 and 4,031,307 and may include cationic guar gums, especially those containing cationic trialkylammonium groups, especially trimethylammonium, and thus may include guar gums modified with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salts (e.g. chloride).

[0065] Preferably, 2% to 30% of the number of hydroxyl functional groups of the guar gums bear cationic trialkylammonium groups. Even more preferentially, 5% to 20% of the number of hydroxyl functional groups of these guar gums are branched with cationic trialkylammonium groups. Among these trialkylammonium groups, most particular mention may be made of trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups. Even more preferentially, these groups represent 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified guar gum. According to the invention, guar gum modified with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride may be used.

[0066] Mention may in particular be made of the products with the INCI names Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride and Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, which are sold in particular under the names Jaguar C13S, Jaguar C15, Jaguar C17 and Jaguar C162 by the company Solvay.

[0067] Among the cationic polysaccharides that may be used, mention may be made of the cationic derivatives of cassia gum, especially those containing quaternary ammonium groups, and in particular the product with the INCI name cassia hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.

[0068] (3) polymers formed from piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene groups containing linear or branched chains, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms, or aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and further the oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers;

[0069] (4) Water-soluble polyaminoamides, in particular prepared by polycondensation of acidic compounds with polyamines; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with epihalohydrins, diepoxides, dianhydrides, unsaturated dianhydrides, bis-unsaturated derivatives, bis-halohydrins, bis-azetidiniums, bis-haloacyldiamines, bis-alkylhalides or alternatively with oligomers resulting from the reaction of bifunctional compounds reactive with bis-halohydrins, bis-azetidiniums, bis-haloacyldiamines, bis-alkylhalides, epihalohydrins, diepoxides or bis-unsaturated derivatives; the crosslinking agents are used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they contain one or more tertiary amine functions, they can be quaternized;

[0070] (5) Polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polycarboxylic acids with polyalkylenepolyamines followed by alkylation with bifunctional agents; for example, mention may be made of the adipic acid / dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl group contains 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably denoting methyl, ethyl or propyl. Among these derivatives, more particular mention may be made of the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylenetriamine polymers sold under the names Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz.

[0071] (6) Polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylenepolyamine containing two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid selected from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the molar ratio between the polyalkylenepolyamine and the dicarboxylic acid is preferably between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; and the resulting polyaminoamide is reacted with epichlorohydrin, the molar ratio of epichlorohydrin to the secondary amine groups of the polyaminoamide being preferably between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are in particular sold under the name Hercosett 57 by the company Hercules or, in the case of adipic acid / epoxypropyl / diethylenetriamine copolymers, under the name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by the company Hercules.

[0072] (7) Cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium, for example homopolymers or copolymers which contain, as main constituents of the chain, units corresponding to formula (I) or (II): [ka] During the ceremony, -k and t are equal to 0 or 1, and the sum of k+t is equal to 1; -R 12 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; -R 10 and R 11 are independent of each other, C 1 ~C 6 Alkyl group, C 1 ~C 5 Hydroxyalkyl group, C 1 ~C 4 represents an amidoalkyl group; or alternatively R 10 and R 11 may together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached represent a heterocyclic group, such as piperidyl or morpholinyl; R 10 and R 11 are, independently of one another, preferably 1 ~C4 represents an alkyl group; -Y - is an anion, such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.

[0073] Mention may be made more particularly of the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium salts (for example chloride) sold, for example, under the name Merquat 100 by the company Nalco (INCI name Polyquaternium-6) and in particular the copolymer of diallyldimethylammonium salts (for example chloride) and acrylamide (INCI name Polyquaternium-7), sold under the name Merquat 550 or Merquat 7SPR;

[0074] (8) A diquaternary ammonium polymer comprising repeating units of the formula: [ka] During the ceremony, -R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R 16 may be the same or different and are an aliphatic group, an alicyclic group, or an arylaliphatic group having 1 to 20 carbon atoms, or C 1 ~C 12 represents a hydroxyalkyl aliphatic group; Otherwise, R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R 16 form, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, either together or individually, a heterocycle which optionally contains a second non-nitrogen heteroatom; Otherwise, R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R 16 is a linear or branched C substituted with nitrile, ester, acyl, or amide. 1 ~C 6 Alkyl group or -CO-OR 17-D group or -CO-NH-R 17 -D group, where R 17 is alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group; -A1 and -B1 each represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated divalent polymethylene group containing 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may contain, be linked to or have inserted in its main chain one or more aromatic rings or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms, or one or more sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups; -X - represents an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid; A 1 , R 13 and R 15 can form a piperazine ring together with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached; In addition, when A1 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene group, B1 may represent a (CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2)p- group, where n and p may be the same or different and are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and D represents: a) a glycol residue of the formula -OZO-, where Z represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae: -(CH2CHO)x-CH2CH2- and -[CH2CH(CH3)O]y-CH2CH(CH3)-, where x and y represent integers from 1 to 4 representing a defined individual degree of polymerization or represent any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization; b) bis-secondary diamine residues, such as piperazine derivatives; c) bis-primary diamine residues of formula -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group or an otherwise divalent group -CH-CH-SS-CH-CH-; d) A ureylene group of the formula -NH-CO-NH-.

[0075] Preferably, X -is an anion, for example chloride or bromide. These polymers generally have a number-average molar mass (Mn) between 1000 and 100,000.

[0076] More particularly, mention may be made of polymers composed of repeat units corresponding to the following formula: [ka] In the formula, R1, R2, R3 and R4 may be the same or different and represent an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and X- is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid. Particularly preferred compounds of formula (IV) are those in which R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 represents a methyl group, n=3, p=6 and X=Cl, which is known as hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI (CTFA) nomenclature.

[0077] (9) Polyquaternary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula (V): [ka] During the ceremony, -R 18 , R 19 , R 20 and R 21 may be the same or different and are a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl, β-hydroxypropyl, or -CH 2 CH 2 (OCH 2 CH 2 ) p represents an OH group, where p is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and 6, provided that R 18 , R 19 , R 20 and R 21 does not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom, - r and s may be the same or different and are integers between 1 and 6; -q is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and 34, -X - indicates an anion such as a halide, -A represents a divalent dihalide group or preferably -CH 2 -CH 2 -O-CH 2 -CH 2 - represents.

[0078] Examples that may be mentioned include the products Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® AD1, Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175 sold by the company Miranol.

[0079] (10) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole, such as, for example, the products sold under the names Luviquat® FC905, FC550 and FC370 by BASF.

[0080] (11) Polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by Cognis, referred to in the CTFA dictionary as polyethylene glycols (15) Tallow polyamines.

[0081] (12) A polymer comprising in its structure: (a) one or more units corresponding to formula (A) below: [ka] (b) optionally, one or more units corresponding to formula (B) below: [ka]

[0082] In other words, these polymers may in particular be chosen from homopolymers or copolymers comprising one or more units deriving from vinylamine and, optionally, one or more units deriving from vinylformamide.

[0083] Preferably, these cationic polymers contain, in their structure, 5 mol % to 100 mol % of units corresponding to formula (A) and 0 to 95 mol % of units corresponding to formula (B), and are preferentially selected from polymers containing 10 mol % to 100 mol % of units corresponding to formula (A) and 0 to 90 mol % of units corresponding to formula (B).

[0084] These polymers can be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. The hydrolysis can be carried out in an acidic or basic medium. The weight average molecular mass of the polymers, measured by light scattering, can be in the range of 1000 to 3000000 g / mol, preferably 10000 to 1000000, more particularly 100000 to 500000 g / mol.

[0085] Polymers comprising units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are in particular sold under the name Lupamin by the company BASF, for example, but not limited to, the products sold under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010.

[0086] Preferably, the cationic polymers that may be used in connection with the present invention are selected, alone or as mixtures, from cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic celluloses such as polyquaternium-10; cationic galactomannan gums, in particular cationic guar gum; and further mixtures thereof.

[0087] When cationic polymers are present, the composition according to the present invention may contain the cationic polymers in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0088] When cationic polysaccharides are present, the composition according to the present invention may contain a total amount of cationic polysaccharides in the range of 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.05% to 5% by weight, and even more preferably 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0089] Nonionic Polysaccharides The compositions according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more non-ionic polysaccharides.

[0090] The non-ionic polysaccharides are preferably chosen, alone or in mixtures, from cellulose, starch, galactomannans and their non-ionic derivatives, in particular their ethers or esters.

[0091] These polymers may be physically or chemically modified: physical treatments may include temperature, chemical treatments may include esterification, etherification, amidation and oxidation reactions, as long as the treatment makes it possible to provide the polymer with a non-ionic character.

[0092] Galactomannans that may be used include (poly)hydroxy (C 1 ~C 6 ) Mention may also be made of the non-ionic guar gums which may be modified with alkyl groups, in particular hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

[0093] These guar gums are well known from the prior art and may be prepared, for example, by reacting guar gum with the corresponding alkene oxide, for example propylene oxide, to obtain guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups. The degree of hydroxyalkylation is preferably in the range of 0.4 to 1.2, corresponding to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum.

[0094] The aforementioned non-ionic guar gums, optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups, are sold, for example, by Rhodia Chimie under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60, Jaguar HP120, Jaguar HP105 SGI and Jaguar HP8 SGI.

[0095] The plant origin of the starch molecules that may be used in the present invention may be cereals or tubers. The starch is thus chosen, for example, from corn starch, rice starch, cassava starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch and pea starch. The starch may be chemically or physically modified, in particular by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation, heat treatment.

[0096] The starch molecules may be derived from any plant source of starch, in particular from maize, potato, oat, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley or wheat. It is also possible to use hydrolysates of the abovementioned starches. The starch is preferably derived from potato.

[0097] Nonionic polysaccharides also contain C 10 ~C 30 It may be a cellulose-based polymer that does not contain fatty chains.

[0098] According to the present invention, the term "cellulose-based" refers to any polysaccharide compound having in its structure a sequence of glucose residues linked together by β-1,4 bonds; cellulose-based polymers may be derivatives of unsubstituted cellulose and / or non-ionic cellulose.

[0099] Thus, the cellulose-based polymers that may be used according to the invention may be chosen from unsubstituted cellulose, including those in crystalline form, and cellulose ethers. Among these cellulose-based polymers, a distinction is made between cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ethers / esters.

[0100] Nonionic cellulose ethers that may be mentioned include (C 1 ~C 4 ) alkylcelluloses, such as methylcellulose and ethylcellulose (e.g., Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical); (poly)hydroxy(C 1 ~C 4 ) alkyl celluloses, such as hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose (e.g., Natrosol 250 HHR, available from Aqualon) and hydroxypropyl cellulose (e.g., Klucel EF, available from Aqualon); mixed (poly)hydroxy (C 1 ~C 4 )Alkyl(C 1 ~C 4 ) alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropyl methylcellulose (eg, Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical), hydroxyethyl methylcellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose (eg, Bermocoll E481 FQ from Akzo Nobel), and hydroxybutyl methylcellulose.

[0101] Preferably, the non-ionic polysaccharides are, alone or in mixtures, cellulose, galactomannans and their non-ionic derivatives, in particular their ethers; more preferably, alone or in mixtures, optionally (poly)hydroxy (C 1 ~C 6 ) non-ionic guar gums modified with alkyl, especially hydroxypropyl, groups; and / or substituted or unsubstituted celluloses and cellulose ethers, such as (C 1 ~C 4 ) Alkyl cellulose and (poly)hydroxy (C 1 ~C 4 ) alkyl cellulose.

[0102] Preferably, the non-ionic polysaccharides are, alone or in admixture, optionally (poly)hydroxy (C 1 ~C 6 ) non-ionic guar gums modified with alkyl, especially hydroxypropyl (INCI name: Hydroxypropyl Guar) groups.

[0103] When nonionic polysaccharides are present, the composition according to the invention may contain a total amount of nonionic polysaccharides in the range of 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.05% to 5% by weight, even more preferably 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0104] When nonionic polysaccharides are present, the composition according to the invention may comprise a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of nonionic polysaccharides chosen from cellulose, galactomannans and their nonionic derivatives, in particular their ethers, and mixtures thereof.

[0105] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise one or more cationic polymers and one or more nonionic polysaccharides; in particular one or more cationic polysaccharides and one or more nonionic polysaccharides; more preferably one or more cationic polysaccharides selected from cationic guar gum and cationic cellulose and one or more nonionic guar gums.

[0106] Nonionic Surfactants The compositions according to the invention may optionally contain one or more non-ionic surfactants.

[0107] Examples of non-ionic surfactants that may be mentioned include the following compounds, alone or in mixtures: -Oxyalkylenation (C 8 ~C 24 ) alkylphenols; - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched oxyalkylenated or glycerolated C, preferably containing one or two fatty chains 8 ~C 40 alcohol; -saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched oxyalkylenated C 8 ~C 30 Fatty acid amides; -saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C 8 ~C 30 Esters of acids with polyethylene glycol; -saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C 8 ~C 30 esters of acids with sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated; -fatty acid esters of sucrose; - oxyalkylenated alkyl (poly)glycosides (0-10 oxyethylene units) optionally containing 1-15 glucose units; - saturated or unsaturated oxyethylated vegetable oils; - condensation products of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide; -N-(C 8 ~C 30) alkyl glucamine and N-(C 8 ~C 30 ) acylmethylglucamine derivatives; -Amine oxides.

[0108] The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units or a combination thereof, preferably oxyethylene units.

[0109] The number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide is preferably in the range of 1-250, more particularly 2-100, and more preferably 2-50, and the number of moles of glycerol is particularly in the range of 1-50, and more preferably 1-10.

[0110] Advantageously, the nonionic surfactant according to the invention does not contain any oxypropylene units.

[0111] Preferably, they contain ethylene oxide in a number of moles ranging from 1 to 250, in particular in the range from 2 to 100, and more preferably in the range from 2 to 50.

[0112] As the glycerolized nonionic surfactant, for example, monoglycerolized or polyglycerolized C containing 1 to 50 mol of glycerol, preferably 1 to 10 mol of glycerol, 8 ~C 40 Alcohols are preferably used.

[0113] Mention may be made of lauryl alcohol containing 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 lauryl ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 moles of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 oleyl ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 moles of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 oleyl ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 moles of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 moles of glycerol, oleyl / cetyl alcohol containing 6 moles of glycerol as well as octadecanol containing 6 moles of glycerol.

[0114] Among the glycerolized alcohols, C containing 1 mol of glycerol 8 ~C 10 Alcohol, C containing 1 mol glycerol 10 ~C 12 C containing alcohol and 1.5 mol of glycerol 12 It is more particularly preferable to use alcohol.

[0115] The non-ionic surfactants of the alkyl (poly)glycoside type may in particular be represented by the following general formula: RO-(RO)-(G), where: -R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group containing 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl group, the linear or branched alkyl group of which contains 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms; -R2 represents an alkylene group containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms; -G represents a sugar unit containing 5 to 6 carbon atoms; -t represents a value in the range of 0 to 10, preferably 0 to 4; -v represents a value in the range of 1 to 15, preferably 1 to 4.

[0116] Preferably, the alkyl (poly)glycoside surfactant is a compound of the formula described above, wherein: -R1 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms; -R2 represents an alkylene group containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms; -t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3, preferably equal to 0, -G represents glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose; The degree of polymerization, ie the value of v, may range from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization is more particularly between 1 and 2.

[0117] The glucosidic bonds between the sugar units are generally of the 1-6 or 1-4 type, preferably of the 1-4 type. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant. Most particularly preferred are C8 / C16 alkyl(poly)glucosides of the 1-4 type, in particular decyl glucoside and caprylyl / capryl glucoside.

[0118] Among the commercially available products, mention may be made of the products sold under the names Plantaren® (600 CS / U, 1200 and 2000) or Plantacare® (818, 1200 and 2000) by the company Cognis; the products sold under the names Oramix CG 110 and Oramix® NS 10 by the company SEPPIC; the product sold under the name Lutensol GD 70 by the company BASF or the product sold under the name AG10 LK by the company Chem Y.

[0119] Preferably, C8 / C16-alkyl (poly)glycosides of the 1-4 type are used, such as that sold under the reference Plantacare® 818 UP by Cognis, in particular as a 53% aqueous solution.

[0120] The nonionic surfactants used in the compositions according to the invention are preferentially chosen, alone or in mixtures, from: - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched oxyethylenated C olefins containing 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide, more particularly 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably containing 1 or 2 fatty chains 8 ~C 40 alcohol; - saturated or unsaturated oxyethylenated vegetable oils containing from 1 to 100 mol, preferably from 2 to 50 mol, of ethylene oxide; - optionally oxyalkylenated (C 8 ~C 30 ) alkyl (poly)glucosides; - monoglycerolized or polyglycerolized C containing 1 to 50 mol of glycerol, preferably 1 to 10 mol of glycerol; 8 ~C 40 alcohol; -saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched oxyalkylenated C 8 ~C 30 Fatty acid amides; -saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C 8 ~C 30 Esters of acids with polyethylene glycol; -saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C 8 ~C 30 esters of acids with sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated;

[0121] More preferentially, the nonionic surfactants used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen, alone or in mixtures, from: - containing 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably 2 to 50, more particularly 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide, and containing one or two fatty chains, in particular at least one C 8 ~C 20 , especially C 10 ~C 18 Saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched, oxyethylenated C containing alkyl chains 8 ~C 40 alcohol, -Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 8 ~C 30 esters of acids and sorbitol, preferably oxyethylated; - preferably containing 0 to 10 mol of ethylene oxide and containing 1 to 15 glucose units, optionally oxyalkylenated (C 8 ~C 30 )Alkyl (poly)glucosides.

[0122] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises nonionic surfactants in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight and preferentially from 0.2% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0123] Cationic Surfactants The compositions according to the invention may optionally contain one or more cationic surfactants.

[0124] The cationic surfactant is preferably chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines or their salts, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, and quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0125] The composition may include one or more cationic surfactants selected, either alone or in mixtures, from the following compounds, which are quaternary ammonium salts: a compound corresponding to general formula (II) [ka] During the ceremony: X - are halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C 1 ~C 4 ) alkyl sulfate, (C 1 ~C 4 ) alkyl sulfonate or (C 1 ~C 4 ) an anion selected from the group consisting of alkylarylsulfonates; R 1 ~R 4 The groups may be the same or different and represent linear or branched aliphatic or aromatic groups containing 1 to 30 carbon atoms, such as aryl or alkylaryl; R 1 ~R 4 At least one of the groups represents a linear or branched aliphatic group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0126] The aliphatic group may contain heteroatoms, in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. 1 ~C 30 Alkyl group, C 1 ~C 30 Alkoxy groups, (C 2 ~C 6 ) polyoxyalkylene group, C 1 ~C 30 Alkylamide group, (C 12 ~C 22 ) Alkylamide (C 2 ~C 6 ) alkyl group, acetic acid (C 12 ~C 22 ) alkyl acetate group and C 1 ~C 30 The group is selected from hydroxyalkyl groups.

[0127] Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (II), preference is given to tetraalkylammonium salts in which the alkyl group contains from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as the dialkyldimethylammonium salts or the alkyltrimethylammonium salts, in particular the behenyltrimethylammonium salts, the distearyldimethylammonium salts, the cetyltrimethylammonium salts or the benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, and also the palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, the stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, the stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salts or the stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium salt sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by the company Van Dyk.

[0128] In particular, it is preferred to use the chloride, bromide or methyl sulfate salts of these compounds.

[0129] quaternary ammonium salts of imidazolines such as those of formula (III): [ka] In the formula, R 5 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, e.g., derived from beef tallow fatty acid, R 6 is a hydrogen atom, C 1 ~C 4 R represents an alkyl group or an alkyl or alkenyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms; 7 is C 1 ~C 4 represents an alkyl group, R 8 is a hydrogen atom or C 1 ~C 4 represents an alkyl group, and X - is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates, the alkyl and aryl groups preferably containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, respectively.

[0130] Preferably, R 5 and R 6 represents a mixture of alkenyl and alkyl groups containing 12 to 21 carbon atoms, e.g., derived from beef tallow fatty acid; R 7 indicates a methyl group, and R 8 represents a hydrogen atom.

[0131] Such a product is, for example, sold under the name Rewoquat® W75 by the company Rewo.

[0132] quaternary di- or triammonium salts, in particular those of formula (IV): [ka] During the ceremony: R 9 represents an alkyl group containing 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and / or optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms; R 10 is hydrogen or an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms or (R 9a )(R 10a )(R 11a )N-(CH 2 ) 3 R may be the same or different and may be selected from the group 9a , R 10a , R 11a , R 11 , R 12 , R 13 and R 14 is selected from hydrogen or an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms; X - are halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C 1 ~C 4 ) alkyl sulfate, (C 1 ~C 4 ) alkyl sulfonates and (C 1 ~C 4 ) alkylarylsulfonates, in particular anions selected from the group of methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.

[0133] Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P (Quaternium 89) sold by Finetex and Finquat CT (Quaternium 75) sold by Finetex;

[0134] quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, for example those of formula (V): [ka] During the ceremony, R 15 is C 1 ~C 6 Alkyl group and C 1 ~C6 Selected from hydroxyalkyl groups or dihydroxyalkyl groups; R 16 is the group R-C(O)-; 20 , saturated or unsaturated C 1 ~C 22 A hydrocarbon-based group; a hydrogen atom; R 18 is the group R-C(O)-; 22 , saturated or unsaturated C 1 ~C 6 A hydrocarbon-based group; a hydrogen atom; R 17 , R 19 and R 21 may be the same or different, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 7 ~C 21 Selected from a hydrocarbon-based group; r, s and t may be the same or different and are integers having a value from 2 to 6; y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10; x and z may be the same or different and are integers having a value from 0 to 10; X - is a simple or complex organic or inorganic anion; However, the sum of x+y+z is 1 to 15, and if x is 0, then R 16 is R 20 If z is 0, R 18 is R 22 Shows.

[0135] Alkyl group R 15 may be linear or branched, more particularly linear. 15 represents a methyl group, an ethyl group, a hydroxyethyl group or a dihydroxypropyl group, more specifically a methyl group or an ethyl group.

[0136] Advantageously, the sum of x+y+z is between 1 and 10.

[0137] R 16is a hydrocarbon-based group R 20 If it is, it may be long chain and contain 12 to 22 carbon atoms or short chain and contain 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0138] R 18 is a hydrocarbon-based group R 22 When it is, it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0139] Advantageously, R 17 , R 19 and R 21 may be the same or different, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 11 ~C 21 From the hydrocarbon-based group, more particularly linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 11 ~C 21 It is selected from an alkyl group and an alkenyl group.

[0140] Preferably, x and z, which may be the same or different, are equal to 0 or 1.

[0141] Advantageously, y is equal to one.

[0142] Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

[0143] Anion X - is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulfate, more particularly methyl sulfate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, anions derived from organic acids, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion compatible with ammonium bearing an ester function may also be used. - is even more particularly chloride or methyl sulfate.

[0144] In the composition according to the invention, more particularly, ammonium salts of formula (V) may be used, in which R 15 represents a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1; z is equal to 0 or 1; r, s and t are equal to 2; R 16 is a group R19-C(=O)-, methyl, ethyl or C 14 ~C 22 Selected from the group of hydrocarbon-based groups and hydrogen atoms; R 18 is selected from the group R21-C(=O)- and a hydrogen atom; R 17 , R 19 and R 21 may be the same or different, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 13 ~C 17 From the hydrocarbon-based group, preferably linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 13 ~C 17 It is selected from an alkyl group and an alkenyl group.

[0145] Advantageously, the hydrocarbon-based group is linear.

[0146] Mention may be made, for example, of compounds of formula (V), such as diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium and monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium salts (especially the chlorides or methyl sulfates) and mixtures thereof. These acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are more particularly derived from vegetable oils such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.

[0147] These products are, for example, optionally oxyalkylenated triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, 10 ~C30 Fatty acids or C of vegetable or animal origin 10 ~C 30 They are obtained by direct esterification with a mixture of fatty acids or by transesterification of their methyl esters, followed by quaternization using alkylating agents such as alkyl halides (preferably methyl or ethyl halides), dialkyl sulfates (preferably methyl or ethyl sulfates), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl paratoluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.

[0148] The aforementioned compounds are sold, for example, under the name Dehyquart® by the company Henkel, under the name Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, under the name Noxamium® by the company CECA or under the name Rewoquat® WE 18 by the company Rewo-Witco.

[0149] The composition according to the invention may, for example, contain a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts, with the diester salt being in the majority by weight.

[0150] Ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, as described in US-A-4,874,554 and US-A-4,137,180, may also be used.

[0151] Behenoyl hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride sold under the name Quatarmin BTC 131 by KAO may also be used.

[0152] Preferably, the ammonium salt containing at least one ester functional group contains two ester functional groups.

[0153] Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that may be used, preference is given to using dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts.

[0154] The term "fatty amine" refers to a fatty amine which comprises at least one optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary amine functional group or a salt thereof and at least one C 6 ~C 30 , preferably C 8 ~C 30 It means a compound comprising a hydrocarbon-based chain. Preferably, the fatty amines used according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0155] Fatty amines that may be mentioned include amidoamines. The amidoamines according to the invention may be chosen from fatty amidoamines, the fatty chain of which can be borne by an amine group or an amide group.

[0156] The term "amidoamine" refers to a compound that contains at least one amide functional group and at least one primary, secondary, or tertiary amine functional group.

[0157] The term "fatty amidoamine" generally refers to a fatty acid having at least one C 6 ~C 30 By amidoamines is meant those containing a hydrocarbon-based chain. Preferably, the fatty amidoamines used according to the invention are not quaternized.

[0158] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines used according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0159] Among the fatty amidoamines used according to the invention, mention may be made of amidoamines of formula (VI) RCONHR″N(R′) 2 (VI) During the ceremony, -R is a substituted or unsubstituted, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably 7 to 23 carbon atoms, in particular a linear or branched C 5 ~C 29 , preferably C 7 ~C 23 Alkyl group or linear or branched C 5 ~C 29 , preferably C 7 ~C 23 represents an alkenyl group; -R'' represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, and more preferably 3 carbon atoms; -R' may be the same or different and represents a substituted or unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl group.

[0160] The fatty amidoamines of formula (VI) are, for example, selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, in particular the product sold under the name Lexamine S13 by Inolex Chemical Company, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocaamidopropyl dimethylamine, mincamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, talamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

[0161] Preferably, the fatty amidoamine is selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidpropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

[0162] The cationic surfactant is preferably selected from those of formula (II), those of formula (V), those of formula (VI) and mixtures thereof; more preferably those of formula (II) and / or those of formula (VI); even more preferably those of formula (II).

[0163] Preferentially, the cationic surfactants may be chosen from the salts such as chlorides, bromides or methosulfates of tetraalkylammonium whose alkyl radicals contain from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, for example the dialkyldimethylammonium salts or the alkyltrimethylammonium salts, in particular the behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts; dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, such as dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate; and mixtures thereof. Even more preferentially, they are chosen from cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate and mixtures thereof.

[0164] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise cationic surfactants in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 8% by weight and even more preferably from 1% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0165] fatty substances The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more non-silicone fatty substances which may be chosen from solid fatty substances, liquid fatty substances and mixtures thereof.

[0166] The term "non-silicone fatty material" means a fatty material that does not contain any Si-O bonds.

[0167] The term "solid fatty substance" refers to a substance that is heated to a temperature of 1.013×10 5 It means a fatty substance having a melting point (at 2 Pa) of above 25° C., preferably above 28° C. and preferentially above 30° C.

[0168] Advantageously, the solid fatty substances that may be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0169] The solid fatty substances may be chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes and ceramides, and mixtures thereof.

[0170] The term "fatty acid" means a long-chain carboxylic acid containing from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The solid fatty acids according to the invention preferentially contain from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more desirably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolized. The solid fatty acids that may be used in the present invention are chosen in particular from myristic acid, cetyl acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid and mixtures thereof. The said fatty acids are different from the (poly)hydroxylated carboxylic acids containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms described previously.

[0171] The term "fatty alcohol" refers to long-chain fatty alcohols containing 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and containing at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and may contain 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably 12 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH, where R represents a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, containing 8 to 40, preferentially 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 30 carbon atoms, even more preferably 12 to 24 atoms, and even more preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms. The solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from saturated and linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, (mono)alcohols containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, even more preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be selected from the following, either alone or in mixtures: - myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); - cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); -stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); - arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); - behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); - lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); - seryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); -montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); -Myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0172] Preferentially, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol; more preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is cetylstearyl alcohol.

[0173] The solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably 9 ~C 26 From aliphatic carboxylic acids and / or C 9 ~C 26 It is selected from esters derived from fatty alcohols.

[0174] Preferably, these solid fatty esters are esters of linear or branched saturated carboxylic acids containing at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more particularly 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and linear or branched saturated monohydric alcohols containing at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more particularly 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

[0175] Esters of C4 to C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids with C1 to C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids with C2 to C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used. In particular, mention may be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate and mixtures thereof.

[0176] Preferably, the solid ester of a fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol is palmitic acid C 9 ~C 26 Alkyl, especially myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitate; myristic acid C 9 ~C 26 Alkyl myristate, such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; and stearate C 9 ~C 26 Particularly preferably, the solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols are selected from myristyl stearate, myristyl palmitate and mixtures thereof.

[0177] For the purposes of the present invention, a wax is an oleophilic compound that is solid at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure, has a reversible solid / liquid state change, has a melting point that is greater than about 40° C. and may be less than or equal to 200° C., and has an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state. In general, the size of the wax crystals is such that they diffract and / or scatter light, giving a more or less opaque, cloudy appearance to the composition in which they are contained. Bringing the wax to its melting point makes it miscible with oils and allows the formation of a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but returning the temperature of the mixture to ambient temperature results in a recrystallization of the wax (white opacity) that is microscopically and macroscopically detectable.

[0178] In particular, waxes suitable for use in the present invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable or mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes and mixtures thereof.

[0179] Mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon-based waxes, such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cera bellina), lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, spermaceti; cork fibre or sugarcane wax, olive tree wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, espartograss wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and Haze wax, floral absolute waxes; montan wax, orange wax, lemon wax, microcrystalline wax, paraffin, petroleum jelly, lignite and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by the Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, waxy copolymers and also esters thereof.

[0180] Also included may be C20-C60 microcrystalline waxes such as Microwax HW.

[0181] Mention may also be made of PM 500 polyethylene wax sold under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.

[0182] Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils containing linear or branched C8 to C32 fatty chains. Among these waxes, mention may be made of isomerized jojoba oils, such as trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular the product manufactured or sold under the name Iso-Jojoba-50® by the company Desert Whale, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, in particular the product sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene.

[0183] Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax Castor 16L64® and 22L73® by the company Sophim, may also be used.

[0184] Waxes which may be used are C20-C40 alkyl(hydroxystearyloxy)stearates (wherein the alkyl group contains from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), either alone or in mixtures. The aforementioned waxes are in particular sold under the names Kester Wax K82P®, HydroxypolyesterK82P® and Kester Wax K80P® by the company Koster Keunen.

[0185] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; mention may be made in particular of carnauba microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 350® by Micro Powders, synthetic wax microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 114S® by Micro Powders, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as the products sold under the name MicroCare 300® and 310® by Micro Powders, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 325® by Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the name Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by Micro Powders, and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the name Microslip 519® and 519L® by Micro Powders.

[0186] The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes, such as paraffin, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite wax; vegetable waxes, such as cocoa butter, shea butter or cork fibre or sugarcane wax, olive tree wax, rice bran wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, ouricury wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, espartograss wax or floral absolute waxes, such as the essential wax of blackcurrant flowers sold by Bertin (France); waxes of animal origin, such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cera bellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, microcrystalline waxes and mixtures thereof.

[0187] Ceramides or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides which may be used in the compositions according to the invention are known and may in particular include ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the Dawning classification.

[0188] The ceramide or analogue thereof that may be used preferably corresponds to the following formula: [ka] During the ceremony: -R1 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from a C14 to C30 fatty acid, which is substituted at the alpha position by a hydroxyl group or at the omega position by a hydroxyl group and can be esterified with a saturated or unsaturated C16 to C30 fatty acid; -R2 represents a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group, or a sulfogalactosyl group, where n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8; -R3 represents a saturated or unsaturated C15-C26 hydrocarbon-based group at the alpha position, which may be substituted by one or more C1-C14 alkyl groups; It is understood that when it is a natural ceramide or glycoceramide, R3 can also represent a C15-C26 α-hydroxyalkyl group, which hydroxyl group is optionally esterified with a C16-C30 α-hydroxy acid.

[0189] Preferentially, ceramides are used in which R1 represents a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from a C14 to C30 fatty acid, R2 represents a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl substituent and R3 represents a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3 group.

[0190] Particularly preferred ceramides are compounds in which R1 represents a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from a C16 to C22 fatty acid, R2 represents a hydrogen atom, and R3 represents a saturated or unsaturated linear C15 group.

[0191] R 1 C12 ~C 22 R represents a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from a fatty acid; 2 represents a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; R 3 Saturated or unsaturated C 12 ~C 22 Hydrocarbon-based groups, preferably -CH=CH-(CH 2 ) 12 -CH 3 Compounds exhibiting the group may also be used.

[0192] Particularly preferred compounds are 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-oleylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxypalmitoyl]aminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3,4-triol, in particular N-stearoylphytosphingosine. Also included may be mentioned: 2-N-palmitoylaminohexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl-N-methyl-D-glucamine, cetyl acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide and bis(N-hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine will also be used.

[0193] The liquid fatty substances that may be used may include liquid hydrocarbons, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, oils of the triglyceride type of vegetable or synthetic origin, mineral oils and mixtures thereof.

[0194] Liquid fatty substances are heated at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105 It has a melting point, at 1 Pa), of less than or equal to 25° C., preferably less than or equal to 20° C. Advantageously, the liquid fatty substance is not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0195] It is to be recalled that fatty alcohols, fatty esters and fatty acids contain more particularly at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group containing from 6 to 40, more preferably from 8 to 30, carbon atoms and optionally substituted, in particular with one or more, in particular with 1 to 4, hydroxyl groups. If unsaturated, these compounds may contain 1 to 3 conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0196] Liquid hydrocarbons are 6 ~C 18 They may be liquid hydrocarbons, which may be linear, branched or optionally cyclic; they are preferably C 8 ~C 16 , especially C 10 ~C 14 It is selected from alkanes, examples of which include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane or isoparaffins such as isohexadecane or isodecane, and mixtures thereof.

[0197] The liquid hydrocarbon may be chosen from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin; mention may be made of liquid paraffin or liquid petrolatum, polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam® and mixtures thereof.

[0198] The triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin may be chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric triglycerides, such as those sold by the company Stearinerie Dubois or under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0199] The liquid fatty alcohol may be selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols, containing from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, examples of which may include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0200] With regard to the liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than the above-mentioned triglycerides, in particular saturated or unsaturated linear C 1 ~C 26 Or branch C 3 ~C 26 Aliphatic mono- or poly-acids and saturated or unsaturated linear C 1 ~C 26 Or branch C 3 ~C 26 Mention may also be made of esters with aliphatic monohydric or polyhydric alcohols, the total number of carbon atoms in the ester being 6 or more, more advantageously 10 or more.

[0201] Preferably, for esters of monoalcohols, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

[0202] Among the monoesters, dihydroabietyl behenate, octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, isostearyl lactate, lauryl lactate, linoleyl lactate, oleyl lactate, isostearyl octanoate, isocetyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, decyl oleate, isocetyl isostearate, isocetyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl octanoate, isodecyl oleate, isononyl isononanoate, palmitic acid Isostearyl, methyl acetylricinoleate, octyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, octyldodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as 2-octyldodecyl myristate, isobutyl stearate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate and mixtures thereof may be mentioned.

[0203] Preferably, among the monoesters of monovalent acids and monohydric alcohols, ethyl or isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates, such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof, will be used.

[0204] Furthermore within the context of this variant, esters of C4-C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids with C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids with C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

[0205] In particular, diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyloxystearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate Included may be mentioned are thrityl; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and polyethylene glycol distearate; and mixtures thereof.

[0206] The composition may also contain, as fatty esters, sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30, preferably C12-C22, fatty acids. It should be recalled that the term "sugar" refers to oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds having several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and containing at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

[0207] Examples of suitable sugars may include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives such as methyl derivatives, e.g. methylglucose.

[0208] The sugar esters of fatty acids may in particular be selected from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of the sugars described above with linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22 fatty acids. If unsaturated, these compounds may contain 1 to 3 conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0209] The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.

[0210] These esters are, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, coconut oil fatty acid esters, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonic acid esters or mixtures thereof, in particular mixed esters such as oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate.

[0211] More particularly, mono- and diesters are used, in particular the mono- or dioleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate and oleostearate of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.

[0212] One example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0213] Preferably, liquid esters of monobasic acids and monohydric alcohols will be used.

[0214] Preferably, the fatty substance is a triglyceride oil of vegetable or synthetic origin, a liquid ester of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, liquid C 6 ~C 18It is selected from hydrocarbons, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof.

[0215] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may contain fatty substances in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 18% by weight, preferentially from 2% to 15% by weight and even more preferably from 5% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0216] Other compounds The composition according to the present invention contains water at a concentration in the range of 50% by mass to 95% by mass, for example 55% by mass to 90% by mass, particularly 60% by mass to 85% by mass, and more preferably 65% ​​by mass to 85% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0217] The pH of the composition may be between 2.5 and 8, preferentially between 3 and 7 or even between 4 and 6.

[0218] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more preferably hydrophilic (water-soluble or water-miscible) organic solvents which are liquid at 25° C. and 1 atm, which may be 1 ~C 6 Aliphatic or aromatic monoalcohols, C 2 ~C 8 Polyol and C 3 ~C 7 Advantageously, the organic solvent may be selected from the group consisting of polyol ethers, 2 ~C 4 It is chosen from mono-, di- or tri-diols. It may advantageously be chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, 1,2-propanediol (propylene glycol) and mixtures thereof.

[0219] The composition according to the invention may contain at least one or more standard cosmetic additives selected in particular from thickeners, gelling agents, both different from nonionic polysaccharides; sunscreens; antidandruff agents; antioxidants; chelating agents; reducing agents; oxidizing bases, colorants, oxidizing agents, direct dyes; hair straighteners; pearlescent and opacifying agents; mica, nacre, glitter flakes; plasticizers or coalescers; pigments; extenders; fragrances; basifying or acidifying agents; silanes. The skilled person will carefully select the additives and also the amounts thereof contained in the composition, so that the additives do not impair the properties of the composition according to the invention.

[0220] The composition according to the invention can additionally advantageously comprise one or more silicone polymers derived from amino acids, in particular of formula (A1) or (A2) below: [ka] During the ceremony: -n is an integer between 1 and 100, preferably between 1 and 50, more preferably between 1 and 20, more preferably between 1 and 10, even more preferably between 1 and 5, even more preferably between 1 and 3, -R 1 is a polypeptide chain derived from amino acids such as cysteine.

[0221] Preferably, the silicone polymer derived from an amino acid corresponds to formula (A1) where R1 is a residue of a hydrolyzed vegetable protein.

[0222] Mention may in particular be made of compounds with the following INCI names: Wheat Protein Hydrolysate PG-Propyl Silanetriol, Vegetable Protein Hydrolysate PG-Propyl Silanetriol or Cystine Bis-PG-Propyl Silanetriol, which are sold by Croda under the names Crodasone® W, Crodasone® W PF, Keravis® PE or Crodasone® Cystine.

[0223] Preferably, the silicone polymer derived from an amino acid may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content that may range from 0.1% to 2% by weight and in particular from 0.2% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0224] More preferably, the silicone polymer derived from an amino acid of formula (A1), in which R1 is a residue of a hydrolyzed vegetable protein, may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content that may range from 0.1% to 2% by weight, in particular from 0.2% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0225] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition, preferably for hair, may comprise: - one or more compounds of the amino acid series corresponding to formula (I) as defined above, where p=2 and R is a hydrogen atom or an optionally -S-heteroatom interrupted and / or optionally hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH 2 ) substituted with one or two groups selected from saturated, linear or branched (C 1 ~C 4 ) an alkyl group; more preferably, R represents a hydrogen atom; Preferably, they are present in a total content of from 1% to 8% by weight, in particular from 1.1% to 8% by weight, more desirably from 1.2% to 7% by weight or even from 1.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; one or more hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids and / or salts thereof containing 4 to 6 carbon atoms, 1 to 3 OH groups and 2 or 3 COOH groups, preferably present in a total content of at least 3% by weight, more preferably from 3% to 10% by weight, in particular from 3.5% to 8% by weight, more preferably from 3.8% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; optionally one or more cationic polysaccharides, in particular chosen from cationic cellulose and / or galactomannan gum; preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight and even more preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; Optionally, (poly)hydroxy (C 1 ~C 6 ) one or more nonionic polysaccharides, optionally modified by alkyl groups, in particular selected from nonionic guar gums, either alone or in mixtures; preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight and even more preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; optionally one or more nonionic surfactants; preferably present in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight and preferentially from 0.2% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention; - optionally one or more cationic surfactants, preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 8% by weight and even more preferably from 1% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and Water at a concentration ranging from 50% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0226] The cosmetic composition according to the invention finds particularly advantageous application in the field of hair care, in particular for cleaning and / or conditioning the hair. The hair composition is preferably a lotion, a pack or a conditioner, but may also be in the form of a shampoo that can be rinsed off, in particular a conditioning shampoo; or else in the form of a pre-shampoo that is rinsed off or left on before applying the shampoo.

[0227] After the cosmetic composition has been applied to keratinous materials, in particular to hair, it may or may not be rinsed off. Rinsing can therefore be carried out optionally, for example with water, after a possible standing time. It is preferably rinsed off after a possible standing time.

[0228] A subject of the present invention is also a cosmetic treatment method, in particular a hair treatment method, in particular for washing and / or conditioning keratin fibres, and in particular hair, which comprises applying a cosmetic composition according to the invention to said fibres, preferably followed by rinsing after a possible standing time.

[0229] A subject of the present invention is preferably a hair treatment method for cleaning and / or conditioning, in particular sensitive, weakened and / or damaged hair or hair otherwise containing residual metal ions, in particular copper and / or calcium.

[0230] The method may also comprise at least two successive steps of applying a composition as defined above to the hair, in particular to sensitive, weakened and / or damaged hair; this is therefore referred to as a multiple application method.

[0231] A subject of the present invention is also the use of a cosmetic composition according to the invention for strengthening particularly sensitive, weakened and / or damaged hair; and / or for limiting the loss of luster in particularly sensitive, weakened and / or damaged hair.

[0232] The subject of the present invention is also a method for the cosmetic treatment of hair, in particular sensitive, weakened and / or damaged hair, comprising: - a step (i) of washing the hair, comprising the application of a cleansing cosmetic composition A comprising one or more anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, followed by - applying to the hair a cosmetic composition B as defined according to the invention (ii), followed by - a step (iii) of conditioning the hair, comprising application of a beauty care composition C comprising one or more conditioning agents selected from cationic surfactants, cationic polymers, silicones, fatty substances and mixtures thereof.

[0233] Step (i) of washing the hair may or may not be followed by a standing time of, for example, 1 to 15 minutes, in particular 2 to 5 minutes.

[0234] This step may or may not be followed by a rinsing step, for example with water, before step (ii) is carried out.

[0235] Preferably, said step (i) is followed by a rinsing step, with a possible standing time of 1 to 15 minutes. The method according to the invention therefore preferably comprises an intermediate rinsing step between steps (i) and (ii).

[0236] Step (ii) of applying the cosmetic composition according to the invention to the hair may or may not be followed by a leaving period of, for example, 1 to 15 minutes, in particular 2 to 5 minutes.

[0237] This step may or may not be followed by a rinsing step, for example with water, before step (iii) is carried out.

[0238] Preferably, said step (ii) is not followed by a rinsing step before step (iii) is carried out.

[0239] The hair conditioning step (iii) may or may not be followed by a leaving period of, for example, 1 to 15 minutes, in particular 2 to 5 minutes.

[0240] This step may or may not be followed by a rinsing step, for example with water.

[0241] Preferably, said step (iii) is followed by a rinsing step, after a possible standing time of 1 to 15 minutes, and optionally by a drying step.

[0242] Steps (i), (ii) and (iii) are carried out consecutively or sequentially, meaning that step (i) precedes step (ii), which itself precedes step (iii); intermediate steps, such as standing and / or rinsing and / or drying steps, may be present between each of these steps.

[0243] Preferably, steps (i) and (ii) are separated by up to 1 hour, more desirably by 1 to 50 minutes or even 5 to 45 minutes.

[0244] Preferably, steps (ii) and (iii) are separated by up to 1 hour, more desirably by 1 to 50 minutes or even 5 to 45 minutes.

[0245] A subject of the present invention is also a method for the cosmetic treatment of hair, in particular sensitive, weakened and / or damaged hair, comprising at least two successive steps of applying a cosmetic composition defined according to the invention.

[0246] In other words, the composition is applied to the hair several times in succession, ie the steps of applying the composition according to the invention are carried out one after the other with or without an intermediate rinsing step.

[0247] Preferentially, the method according to the invention comprises a step of rinsing the hair at least between two successive steps of applying the composition.

[0248] The time for which the composition according to the invention is left on the hair may vary from a few seconds (eg 10 seconds) to a few minutes (eg 5 to 60 minutes), preferably from 1 to 30 minutes, more preferably from 2 to 15 minutes.

[0249] Application to the hair may be carried out, for example, by means of a comb, a fine brush, with the aid of a coarse brush or by means of the fingers.

[0250] Between each successive step of applying the composition, the hair may be rinsed and / or dried.

[0251] Rinsing may be carried out with water or shampoo, after a possible standing time. The hair can then be squeezed dry and optionally washed with a standard shampoo and then dried.

[0252] The rinsing step may also be followed by a drying step, for example at room temperature (25°C) or at a temperature higher than 40°C. Preferably, the hair is dried by airflow in addition to the application of heat. During drying, the hair strand may be subjected to mechanical action such as combing, brushing or hand combing. The drying step of the method of the invention may be carried out by means of a stand dryer (hood), a hair dryer or a straightening iron. When the drying step is carried out by means of a stand dryer or a hair dryer, the drying temperature is between 40°C and 110°C, preferably between 50°C and 90°C. When the drying step is carried out by means of a straightening iron, the drying temperature is between 110°C and 220°C, preferably between 130°C and 200°C.

[0253] The hair treatment method according to the invention may comprise more than two successive steps of applying the composition defined above to the hair, for example at least three successive steps or even at least four successive steps. These successive applications may also be carried out over a period of weeks or even months.

[0254] The time between each application step may advantageously be between one and several days, corresponding to a weekly application of the composition, for example between one and seven days or between two and four days, corresponding to a twice weekly application of the composition.

[0255] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention and are not limiting in nature.

[0256] In the following examples, all amounts are given as weight percentage of active material relative to the total weight of the composition (g % AM), unless otherwise stated. EXAMPLES

[0257] Example 1 The following compositions according to the invention were prepared from the components shown in the table below (g % AM):

[0258] [Table 1]

[0259] Composition A1 is in the form of a milky creamy shampoo and composition A2 is in the form of a translucent shampoo; they may be advantageously used to cleanse the hair.

[0260] The composition makes it possible to produce a large amount of creamy foam, which is easy to spread over the entire scalp. After application, rinsing and drying, the hair becomes stronger, more resistant and has a good shine.

[0261] Example 2 Composition A3 according to the invention and comparative composition A'3 were prepared from the components shown in the table below (g % AM):

[0262] [Table 2]

[0263] Composition A3 is in the form of a cream that may be advantageously applied as a pack after shampooing and rinsed off after a few minutes of leave-on time. This composition may be used to detangle hair, as well as to add protection and strength (effect of density and volume).

[0264] The composition also has hair strengthening properties.

[0265] The reinforcement is measured using DSC techniques.

[0266] (i) Preparation of hair bundles Measurements are carried out on hair tresses that have previously been manually bleached and then treated 5 times according to the following procedure: the tresses are washed with a mild shampoo and then rinsed, 2 g of the composition to be tested is applied to each 5.7 g hair tress, the treatment is left for 5 minutes and then rinsed again.

[0267] (ii) Measurement method The Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) technique is known to those skilled in the art as a method to quantify the protein enrichment in the cortex of keratin fibers (Kinetics of the changes imparted to the main structural components of human hair by thermal treatment, https: / / doi.org / 10.1016 / j.tca.2018.01.014 & F.-J. Wortmann and H. Deutz, J. Appl. Polym Sci., 48, 137 (1993). The principle of this test is to measure the protein denaturation temperature. It is widely accepted that the higher the protein denaturation temperature, the better the protein integrity of the cortex, which reflects a reduced fiber breakage.

[0268] The denaturation temperature is directly related to the bond density of the keratin proteins present in the cortex. Thus, the lower the denaturation temperature, the lower the bond density between the proteins: the disulfide bridges are broken and the cortex is damaged. A difference of 2°C is recognized by those skilled in the art as significant denaturation. The machine used to make the measurements is a TA Instruments DSC Q20 reference instrument. This machine measures the energy flow during heating of the sample. The temperature of maximum energy flow represents the denaturation temperature.

[0269] (iii) Results The results of the measurements of the denaturation temperature (Td) for each of the hair tresses treated according to the procedure previously described are summarized in the table below and represent the average of three measurements taken per tress.

[0270] [Table 3]

[0271] These results show that the use of a composition according to the invention increases the bond density of the keratin proteins present in the cortex of the treated hair, thus making it possible to repair damaged hair.

[0272] Furthermore, the denaturation temperature of hair tresses treated according to the present invention was better than that measured on natural undamaged hair, thus indicating that the hair was repaired.

[0273] Example 3 The following compositions (A1 according to the invention and A2 comparative) were prepared from the ingredients shown in the table below (g % AM):

[0274] [Table 4]

[0275] Composition A1 or A2 is applied to a hair tress weighing 5.4 g (slightly sensitive hair, SA20 type) previously washed with a representative shampoo (DOP), in a ratio of 2.5 g of composition per 5.4 g of tress; the tress is massaged 5 times.

[0276] The tresses are rinsed with water (passed through fingers 21 times), wrung out (passed through fingers 5 times), dried with a hair dryer, and then detangled for evaluation.

[0277] Smoothness scores were assessed by five experts on dry hair, with eyes closed, after detangling, on a scale ranging from 0 (very poor) to 5 (very good) in increments of 0.5.

[0278] The assessment is by touch: the expert grasps the hair strand between thumb and index finger and runs his / her finger along the strand from its top to the tip; he / she determines whether the hair is rough and whether it catches on the finger.

[0279] The results are as follows:

[0280] [Table 5]

[0281] All experts judged composition A1 to be superior to composition A2 in terms of the smoothness criterion.

[0282] The average scores obtained show an improvement in smoothness to the tactile criteria when applying composition A1 (according to the invention) compared to composition A2 (comparison). These results are significant with respect to the standard deviation.

[0283] Example 4 The following compositions (B1 according to the invention and B2 comparative) were prepared from the ingredients shown in the table below (g % AM):

[0284] [Table 6]

[0285] Composition B1 or B2 is applied to a hair tress weighing 5.4 g (slightly sensitive hair, SA20 type) previously washed with a representative shampoo (DOP) in a ratio of 2.5 g of composition per 5.4 g of tress; the tress is massaged 5 times.

[0286] The tresses were rinsed with water (passed through fingers 21 times), squeezed (passed through fingers 5 times), dried with a hair dryer, and then detangled. This procedure was repeated 4 times. At the end of the 4th cycle, the tresses were not dried, but simply detangled for evaluation (wet evaluation).

[0287] Smoothness scores were assessed by five experts on wet hair, with their eyes closed, after detangling, on a scale ranging from 0 (very poor) to 5 (very good) in increments of 0.5.

[0288] The assessment is by touch: the expert grasps the hair strand between thumb and index finger and runs his / her finger along the strand from its top to the tip; he / she determines whether the hair is rough and whether it catches on the finger.

[0289] The results are as follows:

[0290] [Table 7]

[0291] The average scores obtained show an improvement in smoothness to the tactile criteria when applying composition B1 (according to the invention) compared to composition B2 (comparison). These results are significant with respect to the standard deviation.

Claims

1. below: (i) one or more compounds based on amino acids selected from the compounds corresponding to formula (I) and / or their salts, in particular the alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts or zinc salts: 【Chemistry 1】 where p is an integer equal to 1 or 2; When p=1, R and the nitrogen atom form a saturated heterocycle containing 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 ring members, which ring is substituted with a hydroxyl or (C １ ~C ４ ) alkyl; When p=2, R is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from hydrogen atoms or -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)-, and / or optionally selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH ２ ), -SH, -COOH, -CONH ２ Or -NH-C(NH)-NH ２ Saturated, linear or branched (C １ ~C １２ ) alkyl, preferably (C １ ~C ４ ) is understood to represent an alkyl group; present in a total content of 1 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; (ii) one or more hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms; preferably containing from 4 to 6 carbon atoms, from 1 to 3 OH groups and from 2 to 3 COOH groups; and / or salts thereof, present in a total content of at least 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and (iii) water, the concentration of which ranges from 50% to 95% by weight based on the total weight of the composition; A cosmetic composition, preferably for hair, comprising:

2. 2. The composition according to claim 1, comprising one or more compounds and / or salts thereof corresponding to formula (I), in which p=2 and R is a hydrogen atom or optionally interrupted by an -S-heteroatom and / or optionally hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH ２ Saturated, linear or branched (C １ ~C ４ ) an alkyl group; more preferably p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom.

3. 3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein said compound of the amino acid type is selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts, in particular the alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or zinc salts, and mixtures thereof; preferentially from glycine, its salts, in particular the alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or zinc salts, and mixtures thereof.

4. 4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the total content of compounds of the amino acid series of formula (I) ranges from 1.1% to 8% by weight, more preferably from 1.2% to 7% by weight or even from 1.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. 5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, comprising one or more hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids selected from tartaric acid or citric acid and their salts, in particular the alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, such as sodium citrate and / or sodium tartrate; more preferably citric acid or its salts, in particular the alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, such as sodium citrate.

6. 6. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the total content of hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids and / or salts thereof containing in total from 2 to 8 carbon atoms ranges from 3% to 10% by weight, in particular from 3.5% to 8% by weight and more preferably from 3.8% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. 7. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more cationic polymers, preferably chosen from cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic cellulose, cationic galactomannan gum, in particular cationic guar gum; and further mixtures thereof, in particular in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. In particular, alone or in mixtures, from cellulose, galactomannans and their non-ionic derivatives, in particular their ethers; more preferably, alone or in mixtures, from (poly)hydroxy (C １ ~C ６ ) non-ionic guar gums, optionally modified by alkyl groups, in particular hydroxypropyl groups, and / or substituted or unsubstituted celluloses and cellulose ethers, such as (C １ ~C ４ ) alkyl cellulose and (poly)hydroxy (C １ ~C ４ ) alkylcelluloses; preferentially, alone or in admixture, (poly)hydroxy(C １ ~C ６ 8. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising one or more nonionic polysaccharides selected from the group consisting of nonionic guar gums, optionally modified by alkyl, in particular hydroxypropyl, groups, preferably in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more nonionic surfactants, in particular in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight and preferentially from 0.2% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

10. 10. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more cationic surfactants, in particular in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 8% by weight and even more preferably from 1% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. Triglyceride oils, preferably of vegetable or synthetic origin, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, liquid C ６ ~C １８ 11. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more non-silicone fatty substances chosen from hydrocarbons, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof, in particular in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 18% by weight, preferentially from 2% to 15% by weight and more preferably from 5% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. 12. The composition according to claim 1, comprising water in a concentration ranging from 55% to 90% by weight, in particular from 60% to 85% by weight, more preferably from 65% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. A cosmetic treatment method, in particular a hair treatment method for cleaning and / or conditioning, in particular keratin fibres, in particular hair, in particular sensitive, weakened and / or damaged hair or hair with residual metal ions, in particular copper and / or calcium, which comprises applying a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12 to said fibres, preferably followed by rinsing after a possible standing time.

14. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12 for strengthening and / or limiting the loss of shine of particularly sensitive, weakened and / or damaged hair.

15. 1. A method for the cosmetic treatment of hair, in particular sensitive, weakened and / or damaged hair, comprising: - a step (i) of washing said hair, comprising the application of a cleansing cosmetic composition A comprising one or more anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, followed by - applying to the hair a cosmetic composition B according to any one of claims 1 to 12 (ii), followed by - a step (iii) of conditioning said hair comprising application of a beauty care composition C comprising one or more conditioning agents selected from cationic surfactants, cationic polymers, silicones, fatty substances and mixtures thereof.

16. A method for the cosmetic treatment of hair, in particular of sensitive, weakened and / or damaged hair, comprising at least two successive steps of applying a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12.

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