Method of treating hair comprising application of a composition containing an amino acid and a hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acid followed by washing of the hair and use as a pre-shampoo

Abstract

The present invention relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of hair, comprising a step (i) of application to the hair of a cosmetic composition comprising one or more compounds of amino acid type and one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms and / or their salts, followed by a step (ii) of washing said hair, comprising application of a cleaning cosmetic composition comprising one or more anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, the washing step (ii) being carried out at most 60 minutes after step (i). The present invention also relates to the use of said composition comprising one or more compounds of amino acid type and one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms and / or their salts, as a pre-shampoo.

Description

[Technical field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of hair consisting in the successive application of a pre-shampoo cosmetic composition comprising one or more compounds of amino acid type and one or more specific hydroxycarboxylic acids, followed by a cleansing cosmetic composition comprising one or more anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants. [Background technology]

[0002] Consumers around the world are generally exposed to waters of very different origins that are not without impact on hair, especially with regard to their cosmetic properties and / or performance qualities of hair products. "Mineral" waters contain, for example, different amounts of minerals present in the form of dissolved ions, such as calcite (present in the form of calcium), dolomite (present in the form of calcium and magnesium), magnetite (present in the form of iron) and chalcanthite (present in the form of copper). "Hard" waters are also concentrated in minerals such as calcium and magnesium, and swimming pool water, for its part, is concentrated in copper salts, which originate from the algaecides used in the treatment of swimming pools.

[0003] Hair has a strong tendency to absorb these minerals and / or their metal salts, notably due to the presence of anionic functional groups on its surface that correspond to the sulfonic or carboxylic functional groups of keratin. Furthermore, the isoelectric point of individual hairs is generally described as being between 3.2 and 4. The consequence of this is that in everyday life, the pH of the water applied to the hair is higher than such values, resulting in negatively charged fibers.

[0004] Therefore, minerals, very often multivalent cations, are attracted to these negatively charged fibers and are trapped there, resulting in the formation of chemical bonds and preventing their release by conventional hair treatment methods.This can lead to a build-up of minerals on the hair over time.Such deposition depends not only on the hardness of the water, the frequency and / or duration of the exposure of the hair to the water in question, but also on the nature and length of the hair (particularly its porosity and charge) and its state of damage.

[0005] The accumulation of these minerals and / or their metal salts can lead to alterations in the hair fibre, and in particular to more or less noticeable changes in the cosmetic properties of individual hairs: for example, accumulation of calcium and magnesium can lead to dull, dry hair, while accumulation of copper can cause hair to become paler.

[0006] Furthermore, the accumulation of metal (e.g. iron, copper) salts can accelerate the damage caused to the hair since they catalyze oxidation / reduction reactions and generate the hydroxyl radical HO°, including low contents, which can be harmful to keratin fibers.

[0007] This can result in photodegradation of the fibers, in their lightening, and also in adverse changes in the properties of the hair, leading to premature breakage of individual hairs; these phenomena are very particularly observed during the subsequent use of bleaching or dyeing products.

[0008] In other words, hair becomes less resistant, weaker and may even actually break more easily or lose its luster due to the accumulation of minerals and / or their metallic salts.

[0009] Thus, in order to limit the negative effects of metal ions and overcome all of the above-mentioned disadvantages, there is a serious need to have available compositions that make it possible to combat the accumulation of metal ions resulting from minerals and metal salts dissolved in the water, and in fact even to extract them from the keratin fibers.

[0010] The use of the composition described below as a pre-shampoo makes it possible to achieve this goal. Summary of the Invention [Means for solving the problem]

[0011] Thus, the subject of the present invention is - step (i) of applying to the hair a cosmetic composition comprising: at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of one or more compounds of the amino acid type, - one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms and / or their salts, - a step (ii) of washing said hair, comprising the application of a cosmetic cleaning composition comprising one or more anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants; wherein said step (ii) of washing the hair is carried out at most 60 minutes after said step (i).

[0012] Another subject of the invention is the use of the cosmetic composition defined above as a pre-shampoo.

[0013] It has been found that the method according to the invention makes it possible to improve the resistance of the hair to breakage, to strengthen the hair and to significantly limit the reduction or loss of its luster, an undesirable effect that may occur due to the presence of metal ions, especially copper or calcium ions, in the said fibers.

[0014] After application of the composition, the fibers appear reinforced, said reinforcement improving with successive applications of the composition.

[0015] It has been found that the compositions used in the context of the present invention make it possible to impart conditioning properties to the hair, in particular a smooth feel, softness, shine and accelerated disentanglement, while at the same time imparting strength, body and bulk benefits to the hair.

[0016] It is very particularly applied in cosmetic treatments, especially after physical (repeated brushing) and / or chemical treatments, such as hair dyeing, bleaching, perming and / or straightening, and especially for cleaning and / or conditioning sensitive, weakened and / or damaged keratin fibres.

[0017] It is particularly suitable for the cosmetic treatment, in particular cleaning and / or conditioning, of keratin fibres, which contain metals, in particular calcium and / or copper, in particular with a content of at least 100 ppm, better still at least 200 ppm; in particular copper with a content of at least 100 ppm, better still at least 200 ppm, and / or calcium with a content of at least 4000 ppm, better still at least 10000 ppm.

[0018] The hair treatment method according to the invention therefore comprises a step (i) consisting of the application to the hair of a cosmetic composition or a pre-shampoo as defined below.

[0019] This step may or may not be followed by a standing step, for example a standing time of 1 to 15 minutes, in particular 2 to 5 minutes.

[0020] This step may or may not be optionally followed by a rinsing step, for example a water rinsing step, before carrying out step (ii). Preferably, said step (i) is followed by a rinsing step. Thus, preferably, the method according to the invention comprises an intermediate rinsing step between steps (i) and (ii).

[0021] The hair treatment method according to the invention also comprises a wash step (ii) consisting of the application to the hair of a cosmetic wash composition as defined below and comprising one or more anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants.

[0022] This step may or may not be followed by a standing step, for example a standing time of 1 to 15 minutes, in particular 2 to 5 minutes, which may or may not also be followed, optionally, by a rinsing step, for example a rinsing step with water, and / or a drying step. Preferably, said washing step (ii) is followed by a rinsing step and optionally a drying step.

[0023] The step (i) of application of the pre-shampoo composition and the washing step (ii) are carried out consecutively or sequentially, meaning that one of the application steps precedes the other application step; intermediate steps, such as leaving and / or rinsing and / or drying steps, can be present between these two steps.

[0024] The application step (i) is carried out before the washing step (ii).

[0025] The time separating said step (i) of applying the pre-shampoo composition and step (ii) of washing the hair is at most 60 minutes; it may be, for example, between 30 seconds and 60 minutes, in particular between 1 and 30 minutes, more particularly between 2 and 20 minutes, better still between 3 and 15 minutes and very particularly between 4 and 10 minutes.

[0026] The present invention also relates to the use of the cosmetic composition defined below as a pre-shampoo.

[0027] In the following sections, unless otherwise indicated, particularly in the expressions "between" and "in the range from", the endpoints of the range of values ​​are included within the range.

[0028] Additionally, as used herein, the phrase "at least one" is equivalent to and can be used as an alternative to the phrase "one or more." DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

[0029] A / Pre-shampoo composition The hair treatment method according to the invention therefore comprises a step (i) consisting of the application to the hair of a cosmetic composition comprising at least 0.5% by weight of one or more compounds of amino acid type and one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids containing 2 to 8 carbon atoms and / or their salts. This care composition can be described as a pre-shampoo composition. In the remainder of the description, the term "composition" will be used to denote this "pre-shampoo" composition used in step (i); the term "cleaning composition" will be used to denote the cleaning composition of step (ii).

[0030] Amino acid type compounds The compositions used in the context of the present invention contain one or more compounds of the amino acid type.

[0031] Compounds of amino acid type are understood within the meaning of the present invention to mean organic compounds comprising one or more carboxylic and / or sulfonic acid functions and one or more amine functions, the latter optionally being capable of being present in the ring in salt form, said amine functions being primary or secondary.

[0032] Preferably, the compounds of amino acid type are selected from compounds of amino acid type containing only one or more carboxylic acid functions (and therefore no sulfonic acid functions) and / or their salts, also called compounds of aminocarboxylic acid type, are particularly preferred.

[0033] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more compounds of amino acid type selected from the compounds corresponding to the following formula (I) and / or their salts:

[0034] Thus, a compound of amino acid type may correspond to formula (I): [ka] where p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, and it is understood that: When p=1, R together with the nitrogen atom form a saturated heterocycle containing 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 ring members, which ring may be substituted with hydroxyl or (C 1 ~C 4 ) alkyl; When p=2, R is optionally interrupted by a hydrogen atom or one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)-, and / or hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH 2 ), -SH, -COOH, -CONH 2 or -NH-C(NH)-NH 2 Saturated, linear or branched, optionally substituted with one or more groups selected from (C 1 ~C 12 ) alkyl, preferably (C 1 ~C 4 ) represents an alkyl group.

[0035] Preferably, when p=1, R together with the nitrogen atom form a saturated heterocyclic ring containing 5 ring members, which ring is unsubstituted.

[0036] Preferably, p=2.

[0037] Preferably, when p=2, R is optionally interrupted by a hydrogen atom or an -S-heteroatom and / or a hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH 2 (C 1 ~C 4 ) represents an alkyl group.

[0038] Preferably, p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom.

[0039] The amino acid type compound may be a salt of the compound of formula (I).

[0040] These salts include salts with organic or inorganic bases, for example, alkali metal salts, for example lithium, sodium or potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts, for example magnesium or calcium salts, and zinc salts.

[0041] Compounds of amino acid type may be in the form of optical isomers in the L, D or DL ​​configuration, preferably in the L configuration.

[0042] As examples according to the invention of compounds in the form of optical isomers of the L configuration, mention may be made of L-proline, L-methionine, L-serine, L-arginine and L-lysine.

[0043] Preferably, the compounds of amino acid type according to the invention are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts (especially the alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or zinc salts) and mixtures thereof.

[0044] Preferably, the compound of amino acid type according to the invention is selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, their salts and mixtures thereof.

[0045] Even better, the compound of amino acid type is chosen from glycine, its salts (especially the alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or zinc salts) and mixtures thereof.

[0046] As glycine salts according to the invention there may be mentioned sodium glycinate, zinc glycinate, calcium glycinate, magnesium glycinate, manganese glycinate and potassium glycinate, preferably sodium glycinate and potassium glycinate.

[0047] Preferably, the amino acid type compound is glycine.

[0048] The total content of amino acid type compounds present in the composition according to the invention is at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, which may range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.7% to 8% by weight and better still from 0.8% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0049] In particular, the total content of aminocarboxylic acid type compounds in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.7% to 8% by weight and better still from 0.8% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0050] More preferably, the total content of amino acid type compounds selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts and mixtures thereof in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.7% to 8% by weight, and even better from 0.8% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0051] Very particularly, the total content of compounds of amino acid type selected from glycine, its salts and mixtures thereof in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.7% to 8% by weight, and even better from 0.8% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Even better, the glycine content in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.7% to 8% by weight, and even better from 0.8% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0052] Hydroxy(poly)carboxylic acids The compositions used according to the invention also contain one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms and / or their salts.

[0053] These (poly)acids are different from the amino acid type compounds mentioned above.

[0054] Said (poly)acids contain at least one COOH group (in acid or salified form); therefore, they may contain either a single COOH group - in which case the term used is mono-acid - or several of them, in particular at least two COOH groups (in acid or salified form), better still two or three COOH groups (in acid or salified form) - in which case the term used is poly-acid.

[0055] (Poly)acids is understood to mean mono- and polyacids.

[0056] They also contain at least one OH group, but may contain several of them, in particular 2 to 3 OH groups.

[0057] Preferably, they contain a total of 4 to 6 carbon atoms and their hydrocarbon chains are saturated and linear.

[0058] Advantageously, the hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids and / or their salts contain in total 4 to 6 carbon atoms, 1 to 3 OH groups and 2 to 3 COOH groups (in acid or salified form).

[0059] Salts of these (poly)acids include salts with organic or inorganic bases, such as alkali metal salts, for example lithium, sodium or potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts, for example magnesium or calcium salts, and zinc salts. Alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts are preferred, especially sodium salts.

[0060] Preferably, the hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acid or its salt is selected from α-hydroxy acids and their salts, especially from lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid and their salts, especially from the alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts; very particularly from citric acid and / or tartaric acid and also their salts, especially the alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, such as sodium citrate and / or sodium tartrate; and even better from citric acid or its salts, especially the alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, such as sodium citrate.

[0061] Preferably, the total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids and / or their salts containing a total of 2 to 8 carbon atoms present in the composition according to the invention is at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, which may range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 1% to 8% by weight and better still from 1.5% to 6% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

[0062] In particular, the total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids or salts thereof containing in total 4 to 6 carbon atoms, 1 to 3 OH groups and 2 or 3 COOH groups present in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 1% to 8% by weight and better still from 1.5% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0063] Very particularly, the total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids chosen from lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid, and their salts, in particular the alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 1% to 8% by weight and better still from 1.5% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0064] More preferably, the content of citric acid and / or its salts in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 1% to 8% by weight, and even better from 1.5% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0065] Associative Polymers The compositions used according to the invention may contain one or more associative polymers. Preferably, the associative polymers are non-ionic.

[0066] Within the meaning of the present invention, a "polymer" is understood to mean any compound resulting from the polymerization by polycondensation or from radical polymerization of monomers, at least one of which is other than an alkylene oxide and which is a monofunctional compound of formula RX, where R is an optionally hydroxylated C 10 ~C 30 (X represents an alkyl or alkenyl group, and X represents a carboxylic acid, amine, amide, hydroxyl or ester group.) All compounds resulting solely from the simple union of an alkylene oxide with a fatty alcohol, a fatty acid ester, a fatty acid, a fatty acid amide or a fatty acid amine are specifically excluded.

[0067] Within the meaning of the present invention, an "associative polymer" is understood to mean an amphiphilic polymer capable of reversibly associating with itself or with other molecules in an aqueous medium, which usually comprises within its chemical structure at least one hydrophilic region or group and at least one hydrophobic region or group.

[0068] The associative polymer according to the invention is a polymer comprising at least one fatty chain containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the molecules of which are capable of associating with each other or with molecules of other compounds in the formulation medium. Preferably, the fatty chain comprises from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0069] In certain cases, associative polymers are amphiphilic polymers, i.e., polymers that contain one or more hydrophilic moieties or groups that make the polymer water soluble and one or more hydrophobic regions or groups (including at least one fatty chain) that allow the polymer to assemble together or interact with other molecules.

[0070] "Hydrophobic group" is understood to mean a group or polymer with a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain, which may contain one or more heteroatoms such as P, O, N or S, or a group with a perfluoro or silicone chain. When it means a hydrocarbon group, the hydrophobic group contains at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 30 carbon atoms, preferentially 18 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferentially, the hydrophobic hydrocarbon group is derived from a monofunctional compound. By way of example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol, such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, or a polyalkylenated fatty alcohol, such as steareth-100. The hydrophobic group may also mean a hydrocarbon polymer, such as, for example, polybutadiene.

[0071] Within the meaning of the present invention, a "fatty chain" is understood to mean a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl chain containing at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0072] Within the meaning of the present invention, "fatty compounds", such as, for example, fatty alcohols, fatty acids or fatty acid amides, are understood to mean compounds which contain in their main chain at least one saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, such as an alkyl or alkenyl chain, which contains at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0073] Among the anionic associative polymers, mention may especially be made of the following: (A) comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one allyl ether unit having a fatty chain; and more particularly: - its hydrophilic units are composed of ethylenically unsaturated anionic monomers, and more particularly of vinyl carboxylic acids, very particularly acrylic acid or methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof; and Its allyl ether units have a fatty chain corresponding to the monomer of formula (I'): CH2 =C(R')-CH 2 Alumni n R (Wherein, R' is H or CH 3 where B represents an ethyleneoxy group, n ranges from 0 to 100, and R represents a hydrocarbon group selected from alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl and cycloalkyl groups containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more particularly 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0074] Preferably, R′ represents H, n=10, and R is stearyl (C 18 ) group.

[0075] Among these anionic associative polymers, 20% by weight to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, 5% by weight to 60% by weight of C 1 ~C 4 Particular preference is given to polymers formed from alkyl (meth)acrylates, from 2% to 50% by weight of allyl ethers having a fatty chain of formula (I') and from 0% to 1% by weight of a crosslinker, preferably a copolymerizable unsaturated polyethylene monomer, such as, for example, diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or methylene bisacrylamide.

[0076] Very particularly, preference is given to a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and polyethylene glycol (10EO) stearyl alcohol ether (steareth-10), especially a 30% aqueous emulsion of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and steareth-10 allyl ether (40 / 50 / 10) sold under the name Salcare SC80 by BASF, which has the INCI name Steareth-10 Allyl Ether / Acrylates Copolymer.

[0077] - (B) at least one hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type and (C 10 ~C30 ) those containing at least one hydrophobic unit of an alkyl ester.

[0078] These polymers preferably have hydrophilic units of the unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type corresponding to the monomers of formula (II) [ka] (In the formula, R 1 , H, CH 3 Or C 2 H 5 ), unsaturated carboxylic acid type (C 10 ~C 30 ) the hydrophobic unit of the alkyl ester is selected from those corresponding to the monomer of formula (III) below: [ka] (In the formula, R 2 , H, CH 3 Or C 2 H 5 R 3 is C 10 ~C 30 , preferably C 12 ~C 22 (Indicates an alkyl group.)

[0079] The unsaturated carboxylic acid (C 10 ~C 30 ) Alkyl esters include, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate, and dodecyl acrylate, as well as the corresponding methacrylic acid esters, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate, and dodecyl methacrylate.

[0080] More particularly, among these anionic associative polymers, polymers formed from a mixture of monomers comprising: (i) (meth)acrylic acid, (ii) the monomers described above and represented by the formula R 2 is H or CH 3 R 3represents an alkyl group having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and optionally (iii) a crosslinker which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylenically unsaturated monomer such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, and methylene bisacrylamide.

[0081] More specifically, among this type of anionic associative polymer, 95% by weight to 60% by weight of (meth)acrylic acid, 4% by weight to 40% by weight of C 10 ~C 30 A composition consisting of an alkyl acrylate and 0% by mass to 6% by mass of a crosslinkable polymerizable monomer, or a composition consisting of 98% by mass to 96% by mass of (meth)acrylic acid, 1% by mass to 4% by mass of C 10 ~C 30 Preference is given to those composed of alkyl acrylates and 0.1% to 0.6% by weight of crosslinkable polymerizable monomers such as those mentioned above.

[0082] Mention may in particular be made of the products sold by Lubrizol under the trade names Pemulen TR1, Pemulen TR2, Carbopol 1382, Carbopol ETD 2020, Carbopol Ultrez 20, Carbopol Ultrez 21 with the INCI name Acrylates / 10-30C Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, and more preferably Pemulen TR1 and Carbopol 1382.

[0083] -(C) Maleic anhydride / C 30 ~C 38 α-Olefin / alkyl maleate terpolymers, e.g., maleic anhydride / C 30 ~C 38 α-Olefin / isopropyl maleate copolymers, such as those sold under the name Performa V1608 (INCI name: C30-38 Olefin / Isopropyl Maleate / MA Copolymer) by Newphase Technologies.

[0084] -(D) an acrylic terpolymer comprising (a) 20% by mass to 70% by mass of an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid, (b) 20% by mass to 80% by mass of a non-surface-active α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated monomer other than (a), and (c) 0.5% by mass to 60% by mass of a nonionic monourethane which is a reaction product of a surfactant having a monohydroxyl group and a monoethylenically unsaturated monoisocyanate.

[0085] Particular mention may be made of ethoxylated (40 EO) behenyl alcohol terpolymers of methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / dimethyl (meth-isopropenyl) benzyl isocyanate, especially as a 25% aqueous dispersion, such as the product Viscophobe DB1000 with the INCI name Polyacrylate-3 sold by Amerchol (Dow Chemical).

[0086] - (E) among the monomers, (i) α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids, such as acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, and (ii) α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids, in particular acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, and fatty alcohols, in particular C oxyalkylenated, in particular containing from 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, in particular 4 to 50, more particularly 10 to 40 EO. 8 ~C 32 Copolymers containing esters with fatty alcohols.

[0087] As monomers, mention may be made of behenyl or stearyl (meth)acrylates containing from 10 to 40 EO, and especially from 18 to 30 EO.

[0088] Preferentially, these compounds contain, as monomers, an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and 1 ~C 4 Esters of alcohols, especially C 1 ~C 4 Also includes alkyl (meth)acrylates.

[0089] Preferably, these copolymers comprise at least one (meth)acrylic acid monomer, at least one C1 ~C 4 Alkyl (meth)acrylate monomers and at least one C which is oxyethylenated and contains 2 to 100 moles of EO, particularly 4 to 50 EO, and more particularly 10 to 40 EO. 8 ~C 32 Contains alkyl (meth)acrylate monomers.

[0090] As examples, mention may be made of Aculyn 22 sold by Rohm and Haas, which is an oxyalkylenated methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / stearyl methacrylate terpolymer (INCI name: Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer), or Aculyn 28 sold by Rohm and Haas, which is an oxyalkylenated methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / behenyl methacrylate terpolymer (INCI name: Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer), as well as the Novethix L-10 polymer sold by Lubrizol.

[0091] (F) an associative polymer comprising at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer having a sulfonic group in free form or in partially or fully neutralized form and comprising at least one hydrophobic moiety.

[0092] Among this type of associative polymers, mention may be made more particularly of the following: - 15% to 60% by weight of AMPS (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid or salt) units and 40% to 85% by weight of (C 8 ~C 16 ) crosslinked or non-crosslinked, neutralized or non-neutralized copolymers containing alkyl (meth)acrylate units, such as those described in EP-A-750899; -10 mol% to 90 mol% acrylamide units, 0.1 mol% to 10 mol% AMPS units, and 5 mol% to 80 mol% n-(C 6 ~C 8) Terpolymers containing alkylacrylamide units, such as those described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,089,578. - non-crosslinked and crosslinked, fully neutralized copolymers of AMPS and dodecyl methacrylate, and also copolymers of AMPS and n-dodecyl methacrylamide; copolymers composed of AMPS units and steareth-25 methacrylate units, such as Aristoflex HMS® (INCI name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Steareth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer) sold by Clariant, or copolymers composed of AMPS units and Beheneth-25 methacrylate units, such as Aristoflex HMB (INCI name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer) sold by Clariant, or copolymers composed of AMPS units and steareth-8 methacrylate units, such as Aristoflex SNC (INCI name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Steareth-8 Methacrylate Copolymer) from Clariant.

[0093] (G) Associative polymers comprising at least one vinyl lactam monomer and at least one α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid monomer, such as terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, acrylic acid and C1-C20 alkyl methacrylates, such as lauryl methacrylate, such as those sold under the name Acrylidone® LM (INCI name: VP / Acrylates / Lauryl Methacrylate Copolymer) by ISP.

[0094] Among the cationic associative polymers, mention may be made of the following: -(A') a cationic associative polyurethane which can be represented by the following general formula (Ia): RX-(P) n -[L-(Y) m ] r -L'-(P') p -X'-R' (In the formula, R and R' are the same or different and represent a hydrophobic group or a hydrogen atom; X and X' are the same or different and represent a group containing an amine function with or without a hydrophobic group, or a group L"; L, L', and L" are the same or different and represent groups derived from a diisocyanate; P and P' are the same or different and represent groups containing an amine functionality with or without a hydrophobic group; Y represents a hydrophilic group; r is an integer from 1 to 100, inclusive, preferably an integer from 1 to 50, inclusive, particularly an integer from 1 to 25, inclusive; n, m, and p each independently range from 0 to 1000, inclusive; The molecule contains at least one protonated or quaternized amine functional group and at least one hydrophobic group.

[0095] Preferably the only hydrophobic groups are the groups R and R' at the ends of the chains.

[0096] One preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is that corresponding to formula (Ia) above, as follows: R and R' both independently represent a hydrophobic group; X and X' each represent a group L", n and p are integers having values ​​from 1 to 1000, inclusive; and L, L', L'', P, P', Y and m have the meanings given above.

[0097] Another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes are those corresponding to formula (Ia) above, as follows: n=p=0 (the polymer does not contain units derived from monomers bearing amine functions incorporated into the polymer during polycondensation) and the protonated amine functions result from the hydrolysis of the excess isocyanate functions at the ends of the chains, followed by alkylation of the formed primary amine functions with alkylating agents bearing hydrophobic groups, i.e. compounds of type RQ or R'Q, where R and R' are as defined above and Q represents a leaving group such as a halide, sulfate, etc.

[0098] Yet another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes are those corresponding to formula (Ia) above, as follows: R and R′ both independently represent a hydrophobic group; X and X′ each independently represent a quaternary amine-containing group; n=p=0, and L, L', Y and m have the meanings given above.

[0099] The number average molecular weight (Mn) of the cationic associative polyurethane is preferably from 400 to 500,000 inclusive, in particular from 1,000 to 400,000 inclusive, and ideally from 1,000 to 300,000 inclusive.

[0100] Preferentially, the hydrocarbon group is derived from a monofunctional compound.

[0101] By way of example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol, such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol. The hydrophobic group may also refer to a hydrocarbon polymer, such as, for example, polybutadiene.

[0102] When X and / or X′ represent a group containing a tertiary or quaternary amine, X and / or X′ may represent one of the following formulae: [ka] [ka] (In the formula, R 2 represents a linear or branched alkylene or arylene group having 1 to 20 carbon atoms, with or without a saturated or unsaturated ring, one or more of the carbon atoms may be replaced by a heteroatom selected from N, S, O, or P; R 1 and R 3 are the same or different, linear or branched C 1 ~C 30 represents an alkyl or alkenyl group or an aryl group, in which at least one of the carbon atoms may be replaced by a heteroatom selected from N, S, O or P; A- is a physiologically acceptable anionic counterion such as a halide, e.g., chloride or bromide, or mesylate).

[0103] The groups L, L' and L" represent groups of the formula: [ka] (In the formula, Z represents -O-, -S- or -NH-; and R 4 represents a linear or branched alkylene or arylene group having 1 to 20 carbon atoms, with or without a saturated or unsaturated ring, one or more of the carbon atoms may be replaced by a heteroatom selected from N, S, O and P).

[0104] The groups P and P′ containing an amine function may represent at least one of the following formulae: [ka] (In the formula, R 5 and R 7 has the same meaning as R2 defined above, R 6 , R 8 and R 9 is the R defined above. 1and R 3 has the same meaning as R 10 represents a linear or branched alkylene group, which is optionally unsaturated and may contain one or more heteroatoms selected from N, S, O and P; and A - is a physiologically acceptable anionic counterion such as a halide, e.g., chloride or bromide, or mesylate).

[0105] With regard to the meaning of Y, a hydrophilic group is understood to mean a polymeric or non-polymeric water-soluble group.

[0106] By way of example, and where no polymer is concerned, mention may be made of ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol.

[0107] When hydrophilic polymers are concerned, mention may be made, by way of example, of polyethers, sulfonated polyesters, sulfonated polyamides or mixtures of these polymers. Preferentially, the hydrophilic compound is a polyether, in particular poly(ethylene oxide) or poly(propylene oxide).

[0108] The cationic associative polyurethanes of formula (Ia) according to the invention are formed from diisocyanates and from various compounds with functional groups containing labile hydrogen. The functional groups containing labile hydrogen can be alcohol, primary or secondary amine or thiol functional groups, which, after reaction with diisocyanate functional groups, give polyurethanes, polyureas and polythioureas, respectively. The term "polyurethane" according to the invention encompasses these three polymers, namely proper polyurethanes, polyureas and polythioureas, and also their copolymers.

[0109] The first type of compound involved in the preparation of polyurethanes of formula (Ia) is a compound that comprises at least one unit with an amine function. This compound can be polyfunctional, but preferentially, the compound is difunctional, i.e. according to a preferred embodiment, the compound comprises two labile hydrogen atoms, for example carried by a hydroxyl, primary amine, secondary amine or thiol function. Mixtures of polyfunctional and difunctional compounds, with a low percentage of polyfunctional compounds, can also be used.

[0110] As stated above, the compound may contain more than one unit having an amine functionality, in which case it refers to a polymer bearing repeats of units having an amine functionality.

[0111] Compounds of this type may be represented by one of the following formulas: HZ-(P) n -ZH or HZ-(P') p -ZH, where Z, P, P', n and p are as defined above.

[0112] As examples, mention may be made of N-methyldiethanolamine, N-(tert-butyl)diethanolamine and N-sulfoethyldiethanolamine.

[0113] The second compound involved in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) is a diisocyanate corresponding to the formula: O=C=NR 4 -N=C=O(in the formula, R 4 is as defined above).

[0114] By way of example, mention may be made of methylene diphenyl diisocyanate, methylene cyclohexane diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, toluene diisocyanate, naphthalene diisocyanate, butane diisocyanate or hexane diisocyanate.

[0115] The third compound involved in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) is a hydrophobic compound intended to form the terminal hydrophobic group of the polymer of formula (Ia).

[0116] The compounds are composed of a hydrophobic group and a functional group bearing a labile hydrogen, such as a hydroxyl, a primary or secondary amine, or a thiol functional group.

[0117] By way of example, this compound may be a fatty alcohol, such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol. If this compound comprises a polymer chain, it may for example relate to an α-hydroxylated hydrogenated polybutadiene.

[0118] The hydrophobic groups of the polyurethanes of formula (Ia) can result from the quaternization reaction of the tertiary amine of a compound that contains at least one tertiary amine unit. The hydrophobic groups are therefore introduced by a quaternizing agent, which is a compound of type RQ or R'Q, where R and R' are as defined above and Q represents a leaving group such as a halide, sulfate, etc.

[0119] The cationic associative polyurethane may further comprise a hydrophilic block. This block is provided by a fourth type of compound participating in the preparation of the polymer. This compound may be polyfunctional. It is preferably difunctional. It is also possible to have a mixture with a low percentage of polyfunctional compounds.

[0120] The functional group having a labile hydrogen is an alcohol, a primary or secondary amine or a thiol functional group. The compound may be a polymer terminated at the chain end by one of these functional groups having a labile hydrogen.

[0121] As examples, when no polymers are involved, there may be mentioned ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol.

[0122] When hydrophilic polymers are concerned, mention may be made, by way of example, of polyethers, sulfonated polyesters, sulfonated polyamides or mixtures of these polymers. Preferentially, the hydrophilic compound is a polyether, in particular poly(ethylene oxide) or poly(propylene oxide).

[0123] The hydrophilic group designated Y in formula (Ia) is optional. In particular, units having quaternary or protonated amine functional groups may be sufficient to provide the required solubility or water-dispersibility for this type of polymer in aqueous solution.

[0124] The presence of hydrophilic groups Y is optional, but it is preferred that the cationic associative polyurethane contains such groups.

[0125] (B') quaternized cellulose derivatives, and especially: i) quaternized cellulose modified with at least one fatty chain, for example a linear or branched alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl, or linear or branched alkylaryl group containing at least 8 carbon atoms, or a group containing a mixture thereof; -ii) quaternized hydroxyethylcellulose modified with at least one fatty chain, for example a linear or branched alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl, or linear or branched alkylaryl group containing at least 8 carbon atoms, or a group containing a mixture thereof; -iii) hydroxyethyl cellulose of formula (Ib): [ka] (In the formula, -R and R' are the same or different and are ammonium groups -R a R b R c N + Q - (wherein R a , R b and R c are the same or different and are hydrogen atoms or linear or branched C1 ~C 30 Priority is C 1 ~C 20 represents an alkyl group, such as methyl or dodecyl; and Q represents an anionic counterion, such as a halide, such as chloride or bromide; and -n, x, and y are the same or different and represent integers of 1 to 10,000).

[0126] The alkyl group carried by the above quaternized cellulose i) or hydroxyethyl cellulose ii) preferably contains 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl group preferably represents a phenyl group, a benzyl group, a naphthyl group or an anthryl group.

[0127] C 8 ~C 30 Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses with fatty chains include the product Quatrisoft LM 200® (INCI name: Polyquaternium-24) sold by Amerchol / Dow Chemical, as well as the products Crodacel QM® (INCI name: PG-hydroxyethylcellulose cocodimonium chloride), Crodacel QL® (INCI name: PG-hydroxyethylcellulose cocodimonium chloride) and Crodacel QL® (INCI name: PG-hydroxyethylcellulose cocodimonium chloride) sold by Croda. 12 alkyl) (INCI name: PG-hydroxyethylcellulose lauryldimonium chloride) and Crodacel QS® (C 18 It is also possible to show PG-hydroxyethylcellulose stearyldimonium chloride).

[0128] R represents trimethylammonium halide and R′ represents dimethyldodecylammonium halide, more preferentially R represents trimethylammonium chloride -(CH 3 ) 3 N + Cl - R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium chloride -(CH 3 ) 2 (C 12 H 25 )N+ Cl - Mention may also be made of hydroxyethyl cellulose of formula (Ib), which represents: Polymers of this type are known under the trade name Softcat Polymer SL®, such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30 and SL-5, which have the INCI name Polyquaternium-67, from Amerchol / Dow Chemical.

[0129] More particularly, the polymer of formula (Ib) has a viscosity between 2000 and 3000 cPs, inclusive. Preferentially, the viscosity is between 2700 and 2800 cPs, inclusive. Typically, Softcat Polymer SL-5 has a viscosity of 2500 cPs, Softcat Polymer SL-30 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs, Softcat Polymer SL-60 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs, and Softcat Polymer SL-100 has a viscosity of 2800 cPs.

[0130] (C') cationic polyvinyl lactams, including in particular: a) at least one monomer of the vinyllactam or alkylvinyllactam type; -b) at least one monomer of structure (Ic) or (IIc) [ka] (In the formula, X is an oxygen atom or a group NR 6 indicates, R 1 and R 6 are each independently a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C 1 ~C 5 represents an alkyl group, R 2 is a linear or branched chain C 1 ~C 4 represents an alkyl group, R 3 , R 4 and R 5 are each independently a hydrogen atom, a straight-chain or branched-chain C 1~C 30 An alkyl group, or a group represented by formula (IIIc): -(Y 2 ) r -(CH 2 -CH(R 7 )-O) X -R 8 (IIIc) During the ceremony, -Y, Y 1 and Y 2 are each independently a linear or branched chain C 2 ~C 16 represents an alkylene group, R 7 is a hydrogen atom, a straight or branched chain C 1 ~C 4 Alkyl group, or straight or branched chain C 1 ~C 4 represents a hydroxyalkyl group, R 8 is a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched chain C 1 ~C 30 represents an alkyl group, p, q and r independently represent the value 0 or the value 1, m and n each independently represent an integer ranging from 0 to 100, including the endpoints; x is an integer ranging from 1 to 100, inclusive; Z represents an anionic counterion of an organic or inorganic acid, such as a halide, e.g., chloride or bromide, or mesylate; however: -Substituent R 3 , R 4 , R 5 or R 8 At least one of the linear or branched chain C 9 ~C 30 represents an alkyl group, - if m or n is non-zero, q is equal to 1; - If m or n is equal to zero, then p or q is equal to 0.

[0131] The cationic poly(vinyl lactam) polymers according to the present invention may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked and may be block polymers.

[0132] Preferably, the counter ion Z − of the monomer of formula (Ic) is selected from a halide ion, a phosphate ion, a methosulfate ion and a tosylate ion.

[0133] Preferably, R 3 , R 4 and R 5 are each independently a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C 1 ~C 30 Indicates an alkyl group.

[0134] More preferentially, monomer b) is a monomer of formula (Ic) in which m and n are preferentially equal to 0.

[0135] The vinyllactam or alkylvinyllactam monomer is preferably a compound of structure (IVc): [ka] (In the formula, s represents an integer ranging from 3 to 6; R 9 is a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched chain C 1 ~C 5 R represents an alkyl group. 10 is a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched chain C 1 ~C 5 Represents an alkyl group, except that the group R 9 and R 10 (Provided that at least one of the groups represents a hydrogen atom).

[0136] More preferentially, monomer (IVc) is vinylpyrrolidone.

[0137] The cationic poly(vinyl lactam) polymers according to the present invention may also contain one or more additional monomers, preferably cationic or nonionic monomers.

[0138] As particularly preferred compounds, mention may be made of the following terpolymers which comprise at least: a) one monomer of formula (IVc), b) p = 1, q = 0, and R 3 and R 4 are each independently a hydrogen atom or C 1 ~C 5 represents an alkyl group, and R 5 But linear or branched chain C 9 ~C 24 one monomer of formula (Ic), which represents an alkyl group, c)R 3 and R 4 are each independently a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C 1 ~C 5 A monomer of formula (IIc), representing an alkyl group.

[0139] Even more preferentially, terpolymers will be used which comprise from 40% to 95% by weight of monomer (a), from 0.1% to 55% by weight of monomer (c) and from 0.25% to 50% by weight of monomer (b). Such polymers are described in detail in patent application WO 00 / 68282.

[0140] In particular, the following may be used as cationic poly(vinyl lactam) polymers according to the invention: -vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide / dodecyldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium tosylate terpolymer, -vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide / cocoyl dimethylmethacrylamidopropyl ammonium tosylate terpolymer, - Vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide / lauryldimethylmethacrylamidopropyl ammonium tosylate or chloride terpolymer.

[0141] The vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide / lauryldimethylmethacrylamidopropyl ammonium chloride terpolymer is in particular sold under the name Styleze W10® or Styleze W20L® (INCI name: Polyquaternium-55) by ISP.

[0142] The mass average molecular weight (Mw) of the cationic poly(vinyl lactam) polymer is preferably between 500 and 20 million, more particularly between 200,000 and 2 million, and preferentially between 400,000 and 800,000.

[0143] - (D') Cationic polymers obtained by polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising one or more vinyl monomers substituted by one or more amino groups, one or more hydrophobic non-ionic vinyl monomers and one or more associative vinyl monomers, such as those described in patent application WO 2004 / 024779.

[0144] More particularly, among these polymers, mention may be made of the products of polymerization of mixtures of monomers which include: -Ji(C 1 ~C 4 Alkyl)amino(C 1 ~C 6 (alkyl) methacrylate, -One or more C of (meth)acrylic acid 1 ~C 30 Alkyl esters, -Polyethoxylated (20-25 moles of ethylene oxide units) C 10 ~C 30 Alkyl methacrylate, -30 / 5 polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol allyl ether, -Hydroxy(C 2 ~C 6 (alkyl) methacrylates, and -Ethylene glycol dimethacrylate.

[0145] Such a polymer is, for example, the compound sold under the name Carbopol Aqua CC® by Lubrizol and which corresponds to the INCI name Polyacrylate-1 Crosspolymer.

[0146] The non-ionic associative polymers are preferably chosen, alone or in mixtures, from: (1) at least one fatty acid chain, particularly C 8 ~C 32 , or even better, C 14 ~C 28 Cellulose modified with groups containing alkyl chains; preferably selected from: at least one fatty chain, in particular C 8 ~C 32 , or even better, C 14 ~C 28 Modified with a group containing an alkyl chain, such as an alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl group or a mixture thereof, the alkyl group being preferably C 8 ~C 22 Hydroxyethylcellulose with alkyl groups, such as those sold by Ashland under the name Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS (C 16 Cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose sold by Sigma-Aldrich Co., Ltd. or the product Polysurf 67CS sold by Ashland; hydroxyethylcellulose modified with polyalkylene glycol alkylphenyl ether groups, such as the product Amercell Polymer HM-1500 sold by Amerchol (polyethylene glycol (15) nonylphenol ether); - and mixtures thereof. (2) at least one fatty acid chain, particularly C 8 ~C 32 , or even better, C 14 ~C 28 Hydroxypropyl guar modified with groups containing alkyl chains, for example the product Esaflor HM 22 (C) sold by Lamberti 22alkyl chain) and the product RE210-18 (C 14 alkyl chain) and RE205-1(C 20 alkyl chain). (3) Vinylpyrrolidone and fatty chains, especially C 8 ~C 32 , or even better, C 14 ~C 28 Copolymers with hydrophobic monomers carrying alkyl chains. As examples, the following may be mentioned: - vinylpyrrolidone / hexadecene copolymers, in particular the products Antaron V216 or Ganex V216 sold by ISP; - vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene copolymers, notably the products Antaron V220 or Ganex V220 sold by ISP. (4) C 1 ~C 6 Alkyl methacrylate or acrylate and at least one fatty chain, especially C 8 ~C 32 , or even better, C 14 ~C 28 Copolymers with amphiphilic monomers containing alkyl chains, such as, for example, the oxyethylenated methyl acrylate / stearyl acrylate copolymer sold under the name Antil 208 by Goldschmidt. (5) Hydrophilic methacrylate or acrylate and at least one fatty chain, especially C 8 ~C 32 , or even better, C 14 ~C 28 Copolymers with hydrophobic monomers containing alkyl chains, such as polyethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer. (6) Polyether polyurethanes which contain in the chain both hydrophilic blocks, usually of polyoxyethylenated nature, and hydrophobic blocks which may contain exclusively aliphatic sequences, and / or alicyclic and / or aromatic sequences. (7) at least one fatty acid chain, particularly C 8 ~C 32 , or even better, C 14~C 28 Polymers having an aminoplast ether backbone with alkyl chains, such as the Pure Thix compounds offered by Sued-Chemie.

[0147] Preferably, the polyether polyurethane comprises at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon chains having 8 to 30 carbon atoms separated by a hydrophilic block, which can be pendant chains or chains at the ends of the hydrophilic block. In particular, it is also possible to envisage one or more pendant chains. Furthermore, the polymer can comprise a hydrocarbon chain at one or both ends of the hydrophilic block.

[0148] Polyether polyurethanes can be in multiblock, and especially triblock, form. The hydrophobic blocks can be present at each end of the chain (e.g. triblock copolymers with a hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (e.g. multiblock copolymers). These same polymers can also be graft or star polymers.

[0149] Non-ionic polyether polyurethanes with fatty chains can be triblock copolymers whose hydrophilic blocks are polyoxyethylene chains containing 50 to 1000 oxyethylene groups. Non-ionic polyether polyurethanes contain urethane bonds between the hydrophilic blocks, hence the name.

[0150] By extension, non-ionic polyether polyurethanes having fatty chains also include those in which the hydrophilic block is bonded to the lipophilic block by other chemical bonds.

[0151] As examples of nonionic polyether polyurethanes with fatty chains that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of Rheolate 205® with urea functionality, or also Rheolate® 208, 204 or 212 sold by Rheox, and also Acrysol RM 184®. Mention may also be made of the products Elfacos T210® with C12-C14 alkyl chains and Elfacos T212® with C18 alkyl chains from Akzo. The product DW 1206B® with C20 alkyl chains and urethane bonds from Rohm and Haas, offered at 20% solids in water, may also be used.

[0152] In particular, solutions or dispersions of these polymers in water or in a water / alcohol medium may also be used. As examples of such polymers, mention may be made of Rheolate® 255, Rheolate® 278 and Rheolate® 244 sold by Rheox. Products DW1206F and DW1206J sold by Rohm and Haas may also be used.

[0153] Polyether polyurethanes which may be used according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci., 271, 380-389 (1993).

[0154] Even more particularly, it is preferable to use a polyether polyurethane obtainable by polycondensation of at least three compounds including (i) at least one polyethylene glycol containing 150 to 180 moles of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.

[0155] Such polyurethane polyethers are sold in particular under the names Aculyn 46® and Aculyn 44® by Rohm and Haas [Aculyn 46® is a polycondensate of 15% by weight of polyethylene glycol having 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol and methylenebis(4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI) in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); Aculyn 44® is a polycondensate of 35% by weight of polyethylene glycol having 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylenebis(4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI) in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%)].

[0156] Preferably, the composition comprises one more or non-ionic associative polymers, preferentially chosen from polyether polyurethanes.

[0157] Preferably, the associative polymer is present in the composition in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight and more preferentially from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0158] Preferably, the nonionic associative polymer is present in the composition in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight and more preferentially from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0159] Preferably, the nonionic associative polymers chosen from polyether polyurethanes are present in the composition in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight and more preferentially from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0160] silicone The compositions used according to the invention may optionally contain one or more silicones which may be chosen, inter alia, from aminated silicones, non-aminated silicones and mixtures thereof.

[0161] For example, compositions according to the invention may comprise one or more non-aminated silicones which may be solid or liquid, preferably liquid (at 25° C. and 1 atmosphere), and which may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0162] The non-aminated silicones which can be used may be soluble or insoluble in the compositions according to the invention; they may be provided in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums; silicone oils and gums are preferred.

[0163] Silicones are described in particular in detail in the book Chemistry and Technology of Silicones by Walter Noll (1968), Academic Press.

[0164] The volatile silicones have a boiling point between 60° C. and 260° C. (atmospheric pressure), and more particularly can be selected from: i) Cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing 3 to 7, preferably 4 to 5, silicon atoms, such as - octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4) and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5). Mention may be made of the products sold by Union Carbide under the name Volatile Silicone 7207 or by Rhodia under the name Silbione 70045 V 2, by Union Carbide under the name Volatile Silicone 7158 or by Rhodia under the name Silbione 70045 V 5; - cyclic copolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type having the following chemical structure: [ka]

[0165] Mention may be made of Volatile Silicone FZ 3109 sold by Union Carbide. - mixtures of cyclic silicones with silicon-based organic compounds, such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and 1,1'-oxy(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)bisneopentane;

[0166] ii) Generally, the viscosity at 25°C is 5.10 -6 m 2 / sec or less.

[0167] Other silicones belonging to this category are described in the article - Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics, published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 76, pp. 27-32; mention may be made of the product sold under the name SH 200 by Toray Silicone.

[0168] Among the non-volatile silicones, mention may be made of the polydialkylsiloxanes, and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS or dimethicone), polydiarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, either alone or in mixtures, and also the non-aminated organopolysiloxanes (or organomodified polysiloxanes, or organomodified silicones), which are generally polysiloxanes which contain in their structure one or more non-aminated organofunctional groups bonded via hydrocarbon groups and preferably chosen from aryl groups, alkoxy groups and polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene groups.

[0169] The organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes, functionalized with the abovementioned organofunctional groups, the latter being in particular chosen from linear and / or branched polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes or polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes.

[0170] Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of organopolysiloxanes, including: -C 6 ~C 24 Polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene groups, optionally containing alkyl groups, such as dimethicone copolyols, in particular those sold under the name DC 1248 by Dow Corning or the oils Silwet® L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 711 from Union Carbide; or (C 12 ) alkyl methicone copolyols, in particular those sold under the name Q2-5200 by Dow Corning; thiol groups, for example the products sold under the names GP72A and GP71 by Genesee; alkoxylated groups, such as the product sold under the name Silicone Copolymer F-755 by SWS Siliocone and the products sold under the name Abil Wax® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by Goldschmidt; - hydroxylated groups; for example polyorganosiloxanes with hydroxyalkyl functional groups; acyloxyalkyl groups, for example the polyorganosiloxanes described in US Pat. No. 4,957,732; anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, as described, for example, in EP 186507, or of the alkyl carboxylic acid type, such as, for example, the product X-22-3701E from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.; or anionic groups of the 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate or 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulfate type, as, for example, the products sold under the names Abil® S201 and Abil® S255 by Goldschmidt.

[0171] The silicones may also be chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups (CTFA: dimethicone). Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made of the following commercially available products: Silbione® or Mirasil® oils of the 47 and 70047 series sold by Rhodia, such as, for example, oil 70047V500000; - Mirasil® series oils sold by Rhodia; -Dow Corning 200 series oils, e.g., with a viscosity of 60000mm 2 / sec DC200 etc; - General Electric Viscasil® oils and certain oils of the General Electric SF series (SF 96, SF 18).

[0172] Also included are polydimethylsiloxanes having dimethylsilanol end groups (CTFA: dimethiconol), such as Rhodia's 48 series oils.

[0173] In this category of polydialkylsiloxanes, polydi(C 1 ~C 20 Mention may also be made of the products sold under the names Abil Wax® 9800 and 9801 by Goldschimidt, which are alkyl siloxanes.

[0174] More particularly, products that may be used according to the invention are mixtures such as: - polydimethylsiloxanes hydroxylated at the chain ends, or mixtures formed from dimethiconol (CTFA) and from cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes, also known as cyclomethicone (CTFA), such as the product Q2-1401 sold by Dow Corning.

[0175] Polyalkylarylsiloxanes, in particular, have a viscosity of 1.10 at 25°C. -5 ~5.10 -2 m 2 / sec.

[0176] Among these polyalkylaryl siloxanes, mention may be made of the products sold under the following names: -Rhodia's 70641 series Silbione® oils; - Rhodia's Rhodorsil® 70633 and 763 series oils; -Oil from Dow Corning Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid; -Bayer's PK series silicones, for example product PK20; -Bayer's PN and PH series silicones, such as products PN1000 and PH1000; - certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 or SF 1265.

[0177] Further non-aminated silicones which are particularly preferred according to the invention are polydimethylsiloxanes having trimethylsilyl end groups (CTFA: dimethicone).

[0178] The compositions of the present invention may include one or more aminated silicones.

[0179] The term "aminated silicone" refers to any silicone that contains at least one primary, secondary, or tertiary amine, or a quaternary ammonium group.

[0180] Aminated silicones that may be used according to the invention may be volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear or branched, and preferably have a viscosity of 5×10 at 25° C. -6 ~2.5m 2 / sec, e.g., 1 x 10 -5 ~1m 2 / sec range.

[0181] Preferably, the aminated silicones are chosen, alone or in mixtures, from the following compounds: A) a polysiloxane corresponding to formula (I); [ka] (wherein x' and y' are integers such that the mass average molecular weight (Mw) is 5,000 to 500,000 g / mol). B) Aminated silicones corresponding to formula (II): R' a G 3-a -Si(OSiG 2 ) n -(OSiG b R' 2-b ) m -O-SiG 3-a’ -R' a’ (II) (In the formula, -G is the same or different and is a hydrogen atom or a phenyl, OH, C 1 ~C 8 Alkyl, e.g., methyl or C 1 ~C 8 represents an alkoxy, e.g. a methoxy group; a and a' are identical or different and denote 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, with the proviso that at least one of a and a' is equal to 0, -b represents 0 or 1, in particular 1, - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n+m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n can represent a number from 0 to 1999, in particular from 49 to 149, and m can represent a number from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10; -R' is the same or different and has the formula -C q H 2q represents a monovalent radical of L, where q is a number ranging from 2 to 8, and L is an optionally quaternized amino group selected from the following groups: -NR"-QN(R") 2 , -N(R") 2 , -N + (R”) 3 A - , -N + H(R”) 2 A - , -N + H 2 (R”)A - , -NR”-QN + (R”)H 2 A - , -NR”-QN + (R”) 2 HA - and -NR”-QN + (R”) 3 A - (wherein R″ is the same or different and is hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, such as C 1 ~C 20 represents an alkyl group; Q represents a group of formula C r H 2r (r is an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4), - represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, especially a halide, such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide).

[0182] Preferably, the aminated silicone of formula (II) may be selected from: (i) "Trimethylsilylamodimethicone" silicone corresponding to formula (III): [ka] (wherein m and n are numbers such that the sum (n+m) varies from 1 to 2000, preferably from 20 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 600 and better still from 50 to 150; n can represent a number from 0 to 1999, in particular from 49 to 149, and m can represent a number from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10).

[0183] (ii) a silicone of formula (IV): [ka] (In the formula, - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250, more particularly from 100 to 200; n is a number from 0 to 999, in particular from 49 to 249, more particularly from 125 to 175, and m is a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, more particularly from 1 to 5; and -R 1 , R 2 and R 3 are the same or different and are hydroxyl or C 1 ~C 4 represents an alkoxy group, R 1 ~R 3 At least one of the groups represents an alkoxy group.

[0184] Preferably, the alkoxy group is a methoxy group.

[0185] The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1, preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1, and is more particularly equal to 0.3:1.

[0186] The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of these silicones is preferably in the range of 2000 to 1,000,000 g / mol, more particularly 3500 to 200,000 g / mol.

[0187] (iii) a silicone of formula (V): [ka] (In the formula, - p and q are numbers such that the sum (p+q) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350, more particularly from 150 to 250; p denotes a number from 0 to 999, in particular from 49 to 349, more particularly from 159 to 239, and q denotes a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, more particularly from 1 to 5; and -R 1 and R 2 are different, hydroxyl or C 1 ~C 4 represents an alkoxy group, and the group R 1 or R 2 At least one of these represents an alkoxy group.

[0188] Preferably, the alkoxy group is a methoxy group.

[0189] The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1, preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1, and is more particularly equal to 1:0.95.

[0190] The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone is preferably in the range from 2000 to 200000 g / mol, more preferentially from 5000 to 100000 g / mol and in particular from 10000 to 50000 g / mol.

[0191] Commercially available products containing silicones of structure (IV) or (V) may contain one or more other aminated silicones in their compositions, the structure of which is different from that of formula (IV) or (V). A product containing aminated silicones of structure (IV) is offered by Wacker under the name Belsil® ADM 652. A product containing aminated silicones of structure (V) is offered by Wacker under the name Fluid WR 1300®. Another product containing aminated silicones of structure (XIV) is offered by Wacker under the name Belsil ADM LOG1®.

[0192] When these aminated silicones are used, a particularly advantageous embodiment is to use them in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion may contain one or more surfactants. The surfactants may be of any nature, but are preferably cationic and / or nonionic. The number-average particle size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nm. Preferably, in particular as aminated silicones of formula (V), microemulsions are used whose average particle size is in the range of 5 nm to 60 nm (both inclusive), more particularly in the range of 10 nm to 50 nm (both inclusive). Thus, according to the invention, microemulsions of aminated silicones of formula (V) offered by Wacker under the name Finish CT96E® or SLM28020® may be used.

[0193] (iv) a silicone of formula (VI): [ka] (In the formula, m and n are numbers such that the sum (n+m) ranges from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n being a number from 0 to 1999, in particular from 49 to 149, and m being a number from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10; and -A represents a linear or branched alkylene group having 4 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably 4 carbon atoms.) This group is preferably linear.

[0194] The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of these aminated silicones is preferably in the range of 2000 to 1,000,000 g / mol, more particularly 3500 to 200,000 g / mol.

[0195] A silicone corresponding to this formula is, for example, Xiameter MEM 8299 Emulsion from Dow Corning.

[0196] (v) a silicone of formula (VII): [ka] (In the formula, - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n+m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n can represent a number from 0 to 1999, in particular from 49 to 149, and m can represent a number from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10; -A represents a linear or branched alkylene group having 4 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably 4 carbon atoms.) This group is preferably branched.

[0197] The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of these aminated silicones is preferably in the range of 500 to 1,000,000 g / mol, more particularly 1,000 to 200,000 g / mol.

[0198] An example of a silicone corresponding to this formula is DC2-8566 Amino Fluid from Dow Corning.

[0199] C) Aminated silicones corresponding to formula (VIII): [ka] (In the formula, -R 5 is a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular C 1 ~C 18 Alkyl or C 2 ~C 18 represents an alkenyl group, for example a methyl group; -R 6 is a divalent hydrocarbon group bonded to silicon through a SiC bond, especially C 1 ~C 18 Alkylene group or divalent C 1 ~C 18 , for example C 1 ~C 8 represents an alkyleneoxy group; -Q - is an anion, for example a halide ion, especially chloride, or an organic acid salt, especially acetate; -r represents a statistical mean value ranging from 2 to 20, especially 2 to 8; and -s represents a statistical mean value ranging from 20 to 200, especially 20 to 50).

[0200] D) Silicone having a quaternary ammonium salt of formula (IX): [ka] (In the formula, R 7 are the same or different and are monovalent hydrocarbon radicals having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular C 1 ~C 18 Alkyl group, C 2 ~C 18 an alkenyl group or a ring containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example a methyl group; -R 6 is a divalent hydrocarbon group bonded to silicon through a SiC bond, especially C 1 ~C 18 Alkylene group or divalent C 1 ~C 18 , for example C 1 ~C 8 represents an alkyleneoxy group; -R 8 are the same or different and are a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular C 1 ~C 18 Alkyl group or C 2 ~C 18 Alkenyl group or -R 6 -NHCOR 7 Represents the group; -X - is an anion, for example a halide ion, especially chloride, or an organic acid salt, especially acetate; -r represents a statistical mean value ranging from 2 to 200, especially 5 to 100).

[0201] These silicones are described, for example, in application EP-A-0530974; mention may be made, inter alia, of the silicone with the INCI name: Quaternium 80.

[0202] Silicones falling into this category are those sold under the names Abil Quat 3270, Abil Quat 3272 and Abil Quat 3474 by Goldschmidt.

[0203] E) Aminated silicones of formula (X): [ka] (In the formula, -R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 are the same or different, C 1 ~C 4 represents an alkyl group or a phenyl group, -R 5 is C 1 ~C 4 represents an alkyl group or a hydroxyl group, -n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and -x is selected so that the amine number is in the range of 0.01 to 1 meq / g).

[0204] F)(AB) n Multiblock polyoxyalkylenated aminated silicones of the type where A is a polysiloxane block and B is a polyoxyalkylenated block containing at least one amine group.

[0205] The silicone is preferably composed of repeat units having the following general formula: [-(SiMe 2 O) x Sim 2 -RN(R")-R'-O(C 2 H 4 O)a (C 3 H 6 O) b -R'-N(H)-R-] or alternatively [-(SiMe 2 O) x Sim 2 -RN(R")-R'-O(C 2 H 4 O) a (C 3 H 6 O) b -] (In the formula, -a is an integer equal to or greater than 1, preferably in the range of 5 to 200, more particularly in the range of 10 to 100; -b is an integer ranging from 0 to 200, preferably from 4 to 100, more particularly from 5 to 30; -x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10000, more particularly from 10 to 5000; -R" is a hydrogen atom or methyl; -R is the same or different and is a linear or branched divalent C, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms, such as oxygen. 2 ~C 12 preferably, R is the same or different and is an ethylene group, a linear or branched propylene group, a linear or branched butylene group or a CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 CH(OH)CH 2 - group; preferentially, R is CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 CH(OH)CH 2 - group; and -R' is the same or different and is a linear or branched divalent C 2 ~C 12 preferably, R' is the same or different and is an ethylene group, a linear or branched propylene group, a linear or branched butylene group or a CH 2 CH 2 CH2 OCH 2 CH(OH)CH 2 - group; preferentially, R' is -CH(CH 3 )-CH 2 -).

[0206] The siloxane blocks preferably represent 50 mol % to 95 mol %, more particularly 70 mol % to 85 mol %, of the total mass of silicones.

[0207] The amine content is preferably 0.02 to 0.5 meq / g, more particularly 0.05 to 0.2, in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol.

[0208] The mass average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone is preferably from 5000 to 1,000,000 g / mol, more particularly from 10,000 to 200,000 g / mol. Mention may especially be made of the silicones sold under the names Silsoft A-843 or Silsoft A+ by Momentive.

[0209] G) aminated silicones of formulae (XI) and (XII); [ka] (In the formula, R, R' and R" are the same or different, C 1 ~C 4 represents an alkyl group or a hydroxyl group, -A is C 3 represents an alkylene group; and - m and n are numbers such that the mass average molecular weight of the compound is 5000 to 500000; [ka] (In the formula, - x and y are numbers in the range of 1 to 5000; preferably, x is in the range of 10 to 2000, more preferentially 100 to 1000; preferably, y is in the range of 1 to 100; -R 1 and R 2 are identical or different, preferably identical, and denote saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl groups containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferentially from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; and -A represents a linear or branched alkylene group having 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0210] Preferably, A contains from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferentially 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched. In particular, the following divalent radicals may be mentioned: -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 - and -CH 2 CH(CH 3 )CH 2 -.

[0211] Preferably, R 1 and R 2 are independently saturated linear alkyl groups containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; in particular the dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups may be mentioned; preferentially, R 1 and R 2 are the same or different and are selected from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

[0212] Preferably, in the silicone of formula (XII): - x is in the range of 10 to 2000, in particular 100 to 1000; - y is in the range of 1 to 100; -A contains 3 to 6 carbon atoms, especially 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched; more particularly, A is selected from the following divalent radicals: -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 and -CH 2 CH(CH 3 )CH 2 -;and -R 1 and R 2 are, in particular, saturated linear alkyl radicals containing independently 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 20 carbon atoms, selected from the dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl radicals; preferentially, R 1 and R 2 They may be the same or different and are selected from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

[0213] A preferred silicone of formula (XII) is bis-cetearyl amodimethicone. Mention may especially be made of the aminated silicone sold under the name Silsoft AX by Momentive.

[0214] H) Polysiloxanes, especially polydimethylsiloxanes, which contain primary amine groups at only one chain end or on a side chain, such as those of the formula (XIV), (XV) or (XVI): [ka]

[0215] In formula (XIV), the values ​​of n and m are such that the aminated silicone has a weight average molecular weight of 1,000 to 55,000.

[0216] As examples of aminated silicones of formula (XIV), mention may be made of the products sold by Gelest under the names AMS-132, AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS-191 and AMS-1203, and the product sold by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. under the name KF-8015.

[0217] In formula (XV), the value of n is such that the aminated silicone has a weight average molecular weight of 500-3,000.

[0218] As examples of aminated silicones of formula (XV), mention may be made of the products sold by Gelest under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12.

[0219] In formula (XVI), the values ​​of n and m are such that the aminated silicone has a weight average molecular weight of 500-50,000.

[0220] As an example of aminated silicone of formula (XVI), mention may be made of the aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone sold by Dow Corning under the name DC 2-2078 Fluid.

[0221] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may also comprise, as silicone, an aminated silicone corresponding to the following formula (XVIII): [ka] (In the formula, -n is a number from 1 to 1000, preferably from 10 to 500, better still from 25 to 100, and even better still from 50 to 80; -m is a number from 1 to 200, preferably from 1 to 100, better still from 1 to 10, and even better still from 1 to 5; -R"' are identical or different, preferably identical, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl groups containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 18 carbon atoms; said groups can optionally be substituted by one or more hydroxyl OH groups; -R' is a linear or branched divalent alkylene group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 2 to 5 carbon atoms; -R" is a linear or branched divalent alkylene group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, particularly 1 to 5 carbon atoms.

[0222] Preferably, the R"' groups are identical or different and are saturated linear alkyl groups containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 18 carbon atoms; in particular the dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl and octadecyl groups may be mentioned; preferentially, the R"' groups are identical or different and are, alone or in mixtures, in particular the C 13 , C 14 Or C 15 is preferably selected from the group consisting of saturated linear alkyl groups having 12 to 16 carbon atoms, and more preferably C 13 , C 14 and C 15 It represents a mixture of groups.

[0223] Preferably, the R"' groups are identical.

[0224] Preferably, R' is a linear or branched, preferably branched, divalent alkylene group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, especially 2 to 5 carbon atoms; especially -CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -, -CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )-CH 2 -or-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )-group.

[0225] Preferably, R″ is a linear divalent alkylene group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, especially 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular —CH 2 -CH 2 -based.

[0226] Preferentially, the composition may comprise one or more silicones of formula (XVIII) as follows: - n is a number between 50 and 80; - m is a number from 1 to 5; -R"' are identical and are saturated linear alkyl groups containing 12 to 18 carbon atoms; -R' is a divalent alkylene group having 2 to 5 carbon atoms; -R" is a linear divalent alkylene group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0227] Better still, the composition may comprise one or more silicones of formula (XVIII) as follows: - n is a number between 50 and 80; - m is a number from 1 to 5; -R″′ are identical and are saturated linear alkyl groups containing 13 to 15 carbon atoms; -R' is -(CH 2 ) 3 -, -CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )-CH 2 -or-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )-group, and -R” is -(CH 2 ) 2 -based.

[0228] A very particularly preferred silicone of formula (XVIII) is Bis(C13-15 alkoxy)PG-amodimethicone (INCI name). Mention may in particular be made of the silicone sold by Dow under the name Dowsil 8500 Conditioning Agent.

[0229] Preferably, the aminated silicones are selected, alone or in mixtures, from the following: aminated silicones of formula (II), preferably G is C 1 ~C 8 denotes alkyl and a=a′=0; a very particularly preferred silicone of formula (II) is aminopropyl dimethicone, such as that sold by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co. under the name X-22-9686; - silicones bearing quaternary ammonium salts of formula (IX) above; aminated silicones of formula (XVIII) above, in particular in which n is a number between 50 and 80; m is a number between 1 and 5; R″′ are identical and are saturated linear alkyl groups containing 13 to 15 carbon atoms; R′ is —(CH 2 ) 3 -, -CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )-CH 2 -or-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )-group, R″ is —(CH 2 ) 2 - Something that is based on something.

[0230] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may comprise silicones in a total content preferably ranging from 0.3% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 4% by weight, preferentially from 0.6% to 3% by weight and even more preferentially from 0.7% to 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0231] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may comprise aminated silicones in a total content preferably ranging from 0.3% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 4% by weight, preferentially from 0.6% to 3% by weight and even more preferentially from 0.7% to 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0232] Cationic Surfactants The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more cationic surfactants.

[0233] The cationic surfactants are non-silicone surfactants, i.e., they do not contain Si-O groups.

[0234] They are preferably chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty acid amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, or their salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0235] The composition may comprise, alone or in admixture, one or more cationic surfactants selected from the following compounds, which are quaternary ammonium salts: a compound corresponding to the following general formula (II): [ka] (In the formula, X - Among others, halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C 1 ~C 4 ) alkyl sulfate, (C 1 ~C 4 ) alkyl sulfonate, or (C 1 ~C 4 ) an anion selected from the group of alkylarylsulfonates; R 1 ~R 4 The groups may be the same or different and represent linear or branched aliphatic or aromatic groups containing 1 to 30 carbon atoms, such as aryl or alkylaryl; R 1 ~R 4 At least one of the groups represents a linear or branched aliphatic group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0236] Aliphatic groups may contain heteroatoms, particularly oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and halogens. Aliphatic groups include, for example, C 1 ~C 30 Alkyl, C 1 ~C 30 Alkoxy, polyoxy (C 2 ~C 6 ) alkylene, C 1 ~C 30 Alkylamide, (C 12 ~C 22 ) Alkylamide (C 2 ~C 6 ) alkyl, (C 12 ~C 22 ) alkyl acetate, and C 1 ~C 30 It is a hydroxyalkyl group.

[0237] Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (II), preference is given to tetraalkylammonium salts, such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts, in which the alkyl group contains approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms, especially behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, and also palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salts or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristylacetate)ammonium salts, such as those sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by Van Dyk.

[0238] In particular, it is preferred to use the chloride, bromide, or methyl sulfate salts of these compounds.

[0239] quaternary ammonium salts of imidazolines, such as those of formula (III): [ka] (In the formula, R 5 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, e.g., derived from beef tallow fatty acid; R 6 is a hydrogen atom, C 1 ~C 4 R represents an alkyl group or an alkyl or alkenyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms; 7 is C 1 ~C 4 represents an alkyl group, R 8 is a hydrogen atom or C 1 ~C 4 represents an alkyl group, and X - is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl- or alkylarylsulfonates, the alkyl and aryl groups of which preferably contain 1 to 20 carbon atoms and 6 to 30 carbon atoms, respectively.

[0240] Preferably, R 5 and R 6 represents a mixture of alkenyl and alkyl groups containing 12 to 21 carbon atoms, e.g., derived from beef tallow fatty acid; R represents a methyl group; R 8 represents a hydrogen atom.

[0241] Such a product is, for example, sold by Rewo under the name Rewoquat® W75.

[0242] in particular di- or triquaternary ammonium salts of formula (IV): [ka] (In the formula, R 9 refers to an alkyl group containing approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally hydroxylated and / or optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms; R 10 is hydrogen or an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or (R 9a )(R 10a )(R 11a )N-(CH 2 ) 3 R 9a , R 10a , R 11a , R 11 , R 12 , R 13 and R 14 are the same or different and are selected from hydrogen or an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X - are halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C 1 ~C 4 ) alkyl sulfate, (C 1 ~C 4 ) alkyl sulfonates and (C 1 ~C 4 ) alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate, and ethyl sulfate.

[0243] Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P (Quaternium 89) offered by Finetex, or Finquat CT (Quaternium 75) offered by Finetex.

[0244] quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester functional group, such as those of formula (V) below: [ka] (In the formula, R 15 is C 1 ~C 6 Alkyl group and C 1 ~C 6 selected from hydroxyalkyl groups or dihydroxyalkyl groups; R 16 is R 19 -C(O)- radicals; saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C 1 ~C 22 R is a hydrocarbon group 20 A group; a hydrogen atom; R 18 is R 21 -C(O)- radical; saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1 ~C 6 R is a hydrocarbon group 22 A group; a hydrogen atom; R 17 , R 19 and R 21 are the same or different, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched chain C 7 ~C 21 selected from hydrocarbon groups; r, s and t are the same or different and are integers having a value from 2 to 6; y is an integer having a value from 1 to 10; x and z are the same or different and are integers having a value from 0 to 10; X- is a simple or complex organic or inorganic anion, However, if the sum of x+y+z has a value between 1 and 15, and x has the value 0, then R 16R 20 and if z has the value 0, then R 18 R 22 (Provided that:

[0245] Alkyl group R 15 can be linear or branched, more particularly linear. 15 represents a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

[0246] Advantageously, the sum of x+y+z has a value between 1 and 10.

[0247] R 16 is a hydrocarbon group R 20 When it is, it can be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms or it can be short and have 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0248] R 18 is a hydrocarbon group R 22 When it is, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0249] Advantageously, R 17 , R 19 and R 21 are the same or different, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched chain C 11 ~C 21 From the hydrocarbon group, more specifically saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 11 ~C 21 It is selected from alkyl and alkenyl groups.

[0250] Preferably, x and z are the same or different and have a value of 0 or 1.

[0251] Advantageously, y is equal to one.

[0252] Preferably, r, s and t are identical or different and have a value of 2 or 3 and are even more particularly equal to 2.

[0253] Anion X - is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulfate, more particularly methyl sulfate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, anions derived from organic acids, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion compatible with ammonium bearing an ester function may also be used. - is more specifically chloride or methyl sulfate.

[0254] More particularly, in the composition according to the invention, R 15 represents a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1, z is equal to 0 or 1, and r, s and t are equal to 2; R 16 But R 19 -C(O)- group, methyl, ethyl or C 14 ~C 22 selected from a hydrocarbon group, and a hydrogen atom; R 18 But R 21 -C(O)- group and a hydrogen atom; R 17 , R 19 and R 21 are the same or different, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, 13 ~C 17 From the hydrocarbon group, preferably saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 13 ~C 17 Ammonium salts of formula (V) selected from alkyl and alkenyl groups may be used.

[0255] Advantageously, the hydrocarbon group is linear.

[0256] For example, mention may be made of compounds of formula (V) such as diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium and monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium salts (especially the chlorides or methyl sulfates), as well as mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are more particularly derived from vegetable oils such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When a compound contains several acyl groups, the latter may be identical or different.

[0257] These products include, for example, triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine, or alkyldiisopropanolamine, which may be optionally oxyalkylenated, and C 10 ~C 30 Fatty acid or C 10 ~C 30 They are obtained by direct esterification with a mixture of fatty acids or by transesterification of their methyl esters, followed by quaternization using alkylating agents such as alkyl (preferably methyl or ethyl) halides, dialkyl (preferably dimethyl or diethyl) sulfates, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.

[0258] Such compounds are sold, for example, under the name Dehyquart® by Henkel, under the name Stepanquat® by Stepan, under the name Noxamium® by CECA or under the name Rewoquat® WE 18 by Rewo-Witco.

[0259] Compositions according to the invention may, for example, comprise mixtures of quaternary ammonium mono-, di-, and triester salts with a predominant amount by weight of diester salts.

[0260] Ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, as described in US-A-4,874,554 and US-A-4,137,180, may also be used.

[0261] Behenoyl hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride offered by Kao Corporation under the name Quatarmin BTC 131 can be used.

[0262] Preferably, the ammonium salt containing at least one ester functional group contains two ester functional groups.

[0263] Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that can be used, preference is given to using dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts.

[0264] "Fatty acid amine" refers to an amine that is optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated and has at least one C 6 ~C 30 , preferably C 8 ~C 30 It is understood to mean compounds containing at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, or their salts, which contain a hydrocarbon chain. Preferably, the fatty acid amines for use according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0265] As examples of fatty acid amines, mention may be made of amidoamines. The amidoamines according to the invention may be chosen from fatty acid amidoamines, in which the fatty chain can be carried by an amine group or by an amide group.

[0266] "Amidoamine" is understood to mean a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.

[0267] "Fatty acid amidoamines" generally comprise at least one C6 ~C 30 It is understood to mean an amidoamine which comprises a hydrocarbon chain. Preferably, the fatty acid amidoamines for use according to the invention are not quaternized.

[0268] Preferably, the fatty acid amidoamines for use according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0269] Among the fatty acid amidoamines for use according to the invention, mention may be made of amidoamines of the following formula (VI): RCONHR″N(R′) 2 (VI) (In the formula, -R is a substituted or unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon radical having 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably 7 to 23 carbon atoms, in particular a linear or branched C 5 ~C 29 Preferably C 7 ~C 23 Alkyl group or straight or branched chain C 5 ~C 29 , preferably C 7 ~C 23 represents an alkenyl group; -R" represents a divalent hydrocarbon group having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably having 2 to 4 carbon atoms, and better still having 3 carbon atoms; -R' is the same or different and represents a substituted or unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched monovalent hydrocarbon group having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl group).

[0270] The fatty acid amidoamine of formula (VI) may be chosen, for example, from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, especially the product sold under the name Lexamine S13 by Inolex Chemical Company, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivanamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicaamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

[0271] Preferably, the fatty amidoamine is selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidpropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

[0272] The cationic surfactant is preferably selected from those of formula (II), those of formula (V), those of formula (VI) and mixtures thereof; better still from those of formula (II) and / or those of formula (VI); even better still from those of formula (II).

[0273] Preferentially, the cationic surfactants may be chosen from tetraalkylammonium salts, such as chlorides, bromides or methosulfates, for example dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group contains approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms, especially behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts; dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, such as dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

[0274] Even more preferentially, they are chosen from cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate and mixtures thereof.

[0275] When cationic surfactants are present, the total content of cationic surfactants in the composition according to the invention preferably ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more particularly from 0.2% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 7% by weight and even better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0276] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the ratio by mass of the total content of cationic surfactants to the total content of amino acid type compounds is greater than or equal to 1.

[0277] Cationic Polymer The compositions used according to the invention optionally contain one or more cationic polymers other than the associative polymers described above, so that this or these cationic polymers are non-associative.

[0278] "Cationic polymer" is understood to mean any non-silicone polymer (polymer not containing silicon atoms) which comprises cationic groups and / or groups which can be ionized to give cationic groups, but does not comprise anionic groups and / or groups which can be ionized to give anionic groups.

[0279] Cationic polymers that can be utilized preferably have a cationic charge density of 5 milliequivalents per gram (meq / g) or less, and better still 4 meq / g or less.

[0280] The cationic charge density of a polymer corresponds to the number of moles of cationic charge per unit mass of the polymer when the polymer is fully ionized. It can be determined by calculation if the structure of the polymer, i.e. the structure of the monomers that make up the polymer and their molar or mass ratios, is known. It can also be determined experimentally by the Kjeldahl method.

[0281] The cationic polymer that can be used is preferably about 500 to 5.10 6 , preferably about 10 3 ~3.10 6 It has a mass average molar mass (Mw) of

[0282] The cationic polymers that can be utilized are preferably non-associative.

[0283] Among the cationic polymers that may be utilized, mention may be made of: (1) A homopolymer or copolymer derived from an acrylic or methacrylic acid ester or amide and containing at least one unit having the following formula: [ka] (In the formula, -R 3 are the same or different and are hydrogen atoms or CH 3 represents a group, -A is the same or different and represents a linear or branched divalent alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms; -R 4 , R 5 and R 6 are the same or different and represent an alkyl group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl group, preferably an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms; -R 1 and R 2 are the same or different and represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl; -X represents an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid, such as methosulfate anion, or a halide, such as chloride or bromide).

[0284] (1) Group of polymers is a group in which the nitrogen is low (C 1 ~C 4 ) may further comprise one or more units derived from a comonomer which may be selected from the group consisting of acrylamide, methacrylamide, diacetone acrylamide, acrylamide and methacrylamide, acrylic or methacrylic acid esters, vinyl lactams such as vinyl pyrrolidone or vinyl caprolactam, and vinyl esters substituted with alkyl groups.

[0285] Among these copolymers of group (1), mention may be made of: copolymers of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or dimethyl halides, such as those sold under the name Hercofloc by Hercules; copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, such as those sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by Ciba-Geigy; copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, such as those sold under the name Reten by Hercules; quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat by ISP, such as Gafquat 734 or Gafquat 755, or the products known as Copolymer 845, 958 and 937, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinyl caprolactam / vinyl pyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold by ISP under the name Gaffix VC 713; vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as the product sold under the name Styleze CC 10 by ISP; quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymers, for example the product sold under the name Gafquat HS 100 by ISP; Methacryloyloxy (C ), such as, for example, the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride or by copolymerization of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride; 1 ~C 4 )Alkyltri(C 1 ~C 4) alkylammonium salts, preferably crosslinked, obtained by homopolymerization or copolymerization followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. More particularly, crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymers (20 / 80 by weight) can be used in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is sold under the name Salcare® SC 92 by Ciba. Crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymers can also be used, containing about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by Ciba.

[0286] (2) Cationic polysaccharides, especially cationic cellulose and galactomannan gum. More particularly, among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made of cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers, cellulose derivatives grafted with water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomers, and cationic galactomannan gums.

[0287] Cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups are described, inter alia, in French patent FR 1 492 597; they are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammonium derivatives of hydroxyethylcellulose reacted with epoxides substituted by trimethylammonium groups.

[0288] Mention may in particular be made of the polymers sold under the names Ucare Polymer JR (JR400LT, JR125 and JR30M) or LR (LR400 and LR30M) by Amerchol.

[0289] Cationic cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomers are described in particular in US Patent No. 4,131,576; in particular, hydroxyalkylcelluloses grafted with methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salts, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses, can be mentioned. Very specifically, crosslinked or non-crosslinked quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses can be mentioned, and the quaternizing agent can be, inter alia, diallyldimethylammonium chloride; very specifically, hydroxyethylcellulose hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium.

[0290] Among the commercially available products corresponding to this definition, mention may be made of the products sold by National Starch under the names Celquat L200 and Celquat H100.

[0291] In particular, as a particularly preferred cationic cellulose, mention may be made of the polymer with the INCI name Polyquaternium-10.

[0292] Cationic galactomannan gums are described in particular in US Pat. Nos. 3,589,578 and 4,031,307; cationic guar gums may be mentioned, in particular those containing cationic trialkylammonium groups, especially trimethylammonium groups, and thus guar gums modified with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salts (e.g. chloride).

[0293] Preferably, between 2% and 30% by number of the hydroxyl functional groups of the guar gum bear cationic trialkylammonium groups. Even more preferentially, between 5% and 20% by number of the hydroxyl functional groups of these guar gums are branched with cationic trialkylammonium groups. Among these trialkylammonium groups, very particular mention may be made of trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups.

[0294] More preferentially, these groups represent between 5% and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified guar gum.According to the invention, use can be made of guar gum modified with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride.

[0295] Mention may in particular be made of the products with the INCI names Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride and Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, in particular those sold by Solvay under the names Jaguar C13S, Jaguar C15, Jaguar C17 and Jaguar C162.

[0296] Among the cationic polysaccharides that may be used, mention may also be made of the cationic derivatives of cassia gum, especially those containing quaternary ammonium groups; in particular the product having the INCI name cassia hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.

[0297] (3) Polymers composed of piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene groups having straight or branched chains optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, or nitrogen atoms or aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and the oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers.

[0298] (4) Water-soluble polyaminoamides, especially prepared by polycondensation of acidic compounds with polyamines; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with epihalohydrins, diepoxides, dianhydrides, unsaturated dianhydrides, bis-unsaturated derivatives, bis-halohydrins, bis-azetidiniums, bis-haloacyldiamines, bis-alkylhalides, or with oligomers resulting from the reaction of bifunctional compounds reactive with bis-halohydrins, bis-azetidiniums, bis-haloacyldiamines, bis-alkylhalides, epihalohydrins, diepoxides, or bis-unsaturated derivatives; the crosslinking agents are used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 moles per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they contain one or more tertiary amine functions, they can also be quaternized.

[0299] (5) Polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylenepolyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of the adipic acid / dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers, in which the alkyl group contains 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl.

[0300] More particularly, among these derivatives, mention may be made of the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylenetriamine polymers sold by Sandoz under the names Cartaretine F, F4 or F8.

[0301] (6) Polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylenepolyamine containing two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid selected from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the molar ratio between the polyalkylenepolyamine and the dicarboxylic acid is preferably 0.8:1 to 1.4:1; and the polyaminoamide resulting therefrom is reacted with epichlorohydrin, preferably in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin to the secondary amine groups of the polyaminoamide of 0.5:1 to 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are sold, inter alia, by Hercules Inc. under the name Hercosett 57 or, in the case of adipic acid / epoxypropyl / diethylenetriamine copolymers, by Hercules under the name PD 170 or Delsette 101.

[0302] (7) Cyclic polymers of alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium, such as homopolymers or copolymers containing, as main chain building blocks, units corresponding to formula (I) or (II): [ka] (In the formula, -k and t are equal to 0 or 1, and the sum of k+t is equal to 1; -R 12 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; -R 10 and R11 are each independently C 1 ~C 6 Alkyl group, C 1 ~C 5 Hydroxyalkyl group, C 1 ~C 4 represents an amidoalkyl group; or R 10 and R 11 may together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached represent a heterocyclic group, such as piperidyl or morpholinyl; R 10 and R 11 are, independently of one another, preferably 1 ~C 4 represents an alkyl group; -Y - is an anion, for example, bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, or phosphate).

[0303] More specifically, mention may be made, for example, of the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium salt (for example chloride) sold by Nalco under the name Merquat 100 (INCI name: Polyquaternium-6) and in particular the copolymer of diallyldimethylammonium salt (for example chloride) and acrylamide (INCI name: Polyquaternium-7) sold under the name Merquat 550 or Merquat 7SPR.

[0304] (8) A diquaternary ammonium polymer comprising a repeating unit of the formula: [ka] (In the formula, -R 13 , R 14 , R 15 , and R 16 are the same or different and are an aliphatic, alicyclic, or arylaliphatic group containing 1 to 20 carbon atoms, or C 1 ~C 12 represents a hydroxyalkyl aliphatic group; Or, R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R 16 together or individually, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, constitute a heterocycle, optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen; Or, R 13 , R 14 , R 15 , and R 16 is a linear or branched C substituted with nitrile, ester, acyl, or amide. 1 ~C 6 Alkyl group, or -CO-OR 17 -D or -CO-NH-R 17 -D group (where R17 is alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group; -A 1 and B. 1 represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched divalent polymethylene group containing 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may contain one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms, or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, bonded or intercalated in its backbone, and -X - represents an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid; A 1 , R 13 , and R 15 may form a piperazine ring together with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached; Furthermore, A 1 represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkylene or hydroxyalkylene group, B 1 is -(CH 2 ) n -CO-D-OC-(CH 2 ) p -group, where n and p are the same or different and are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and D represents: a) glycol residues of the formula -OZO-, where Z represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon group or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae: -(CH 2 CH 2 O) x -CH 2 CH 2 - and -[CH 2 CH(CH 3 )O] y -CH 2 CH(CH 3 )-(wherein x and y are integers from 1 to 4 representing a uniquely defined degree of polymerization, or are any numbers from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization)); b) bis-secondary diamine residues, such as piperazine derivatives; c) bis-primary diamine residues of the formula -NH-Y-NH-, where Y is a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a divalent radical -CH 2 -CH 2 -SS-CH 2 -CH 2 - represents); d) A ureylene group of the formula -NH-CO-NH-.

[0305] Preferably, X- is an anion, for example chloride or bromide. These polymers generally have a number-average molar mass (Mn) between 1000 and 100,000.

[0306] More particularly, mention may be made of polymers composed of repeating units corresponding to the following formula: [ka] (In the formula, R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , and R 4 are the same or different and represent an alkyl group or a hydroxyalkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and X- is an anion derived from a mineral acid or an organic acid.

[0307] Particularly preferred compounds of formula (IV) are those in which R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , and R 4 represents a methyl group, n=3, p=6, and X=Cl, which is known as hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI (CTFA) nomenclature.

[0308] (9) Polyquaternary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula (V): [ka] (In the formula, -R 18 , R 19 , R 20 and R21 are the same or different, and R 18 , R 19 , R 20 and R 21 does not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl, β-hydroxypropyl or -CH 2 CH 2 (OCH 2 CH 2 ) p group, where p is equal to 0 or an integer from 1 to 6, - r and s are the same or different and are integers from 1 to 6; -q is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and 34, -X- represents an anion such as a halide, -A represents a divalent radical of a dihalide or is preferably -CH 2 -CH 2 -O-CH 2 -CH 2 -).

[0309] For example, mention may be made of the products Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® AD1, Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175 sold by Miranol.

[0310] (10) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole, such as the products sold by BASF under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370.

[0311] (11) Polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by Cognis, referred to in the CTFA dictionary as polyethylene glycols (15) Tallow polyamines.

[0312] (12) A polymer containing in its structure: (a) one or more units corresponding to the following formula (A): [ka] (b) optionally, one or more units corresponding to formula (B): [ka]

[0313] In other words, these polymers may in particular be chosen from homopolymers or copolymers comprising one or more units deriving from vinylamine and, optionally, one or more units deriving from vinylformamide.

[0314] Preferably, these cationic polymers are selected from polymers which contain in their structure 5 mol % to 100 mol % of units corresponding to formula (A) and 0 mol % to 95 mol % of units corresponding to formula (B), preferentially 10 mol % to 100 mol % of units corresponding to formula (A) and 0 mol % to 90 mol % of units corresponding to formula (B).

[0315] These polymers can be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide, which hydrolysis can be carried out in an acidic or basic medium. The weight average molecular weight of said polymer, measured by light scattering, may be in the range of 1000 to 3,000,000 g / mol, preferably 10,000 to 1,000,000, more particularly 100,000 to 500,000 g / mol.

[0316] Polymers comprising units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are sold in particular under the name Lupamin by BASF, such as, but not limited to, the products sold under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030), and Lupamin 9010.

[0317] Preferably, cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the present invention are selected, alone or in mixtures, from the polymers of group (1), cationic polysaccharides, especially cationic celluloses such as polyquaternium-10; cationic galactomannan gums, especially cationic guar gum; and mixtures thereof.

[0318] When cationic polymers are present, the composition according to the invention may contain them in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight and even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0319] When cationic polysaccharides are present, the composition according to the invention may contain them in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0320] Nonionic Polysaccharides The compositions used according to the invention may optionally contain one or more non-ionic polysaccharides other than the associative polymers mentioned above, so that this or these non-ionic polysaccharides are non-associative.

[0321] The non-ionic polysaccharides are preferably selected from cellulose, starch, galactomannan and their non-ionic derivatives, especially their ethers or esters, either alone or in admixture.

[0322] These polymers can be physically or chemically modified: as physical treatments, temperature can be mentioned, and as chemical treatments, esterification, etherification, amidation and oxidation reactions can be mentioned, as long as these treatments make it possible to result in a polymer that is non-ionic.

[0323] Available galactomannans include (poly)hydroxy (C 1 ~C 6) Mention may be made of non-ionic guar gums which may be modified with alkyl groups, especially hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

[0324] These guar gums are well known from the prior art and can be prepared, for example, by reacting guar gum with the corresponding alkene oxide, such as propylene oxide, to obtain guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.

[0325] The degree of hydroxyalkylation preferably ranges from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functional groups present on the guar gum.

[0326] Such nonionic guar gums, optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups, are sold, for example, by Rhodia Chimie under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60, Jaguar HP120, Jaguar HP105 SGI and Jaguar HP8 SGI.

[0327] The starch molecules that may be used in the present invention may have as plant origin a cereal or a tuber. Thus, the starch may be selected, for example, from corn starch, rice starch, cassava starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch or pea starch. The starch may be chemically or physically modified, in particular by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation or heat treatment.

[0328] The starch molecules may be derived from any plant source of starch, in particular from maize, potato, oat, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley or wheat. It is also possible to use hydrolysates of the abovementioned starches. The starch is preferably derived from potato.

[0329] Nonionic polysaccharides contain the C10 ~C 30 It may also be a cellulosic polymer that does not contain fatty chains.

[0330] A "cellulosic" polymer is according to the invention understood to mean any polysaccharide compound having in its structure a sequence of glucose residues linked by β-1,4 bonds; the cellulosic polymer may be a derivative of unsubstituted cellulose and / or of non-ionic cellulose.

[0331] Thus, the cellulosic polymers that can be used according to the invention can be selected from unsubstituted celluloses, including those in microcrystalline form, and cellulose ethers. Among these cellulosic polymers, cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ethers / esters are distinguished.

[0332] Among the nonionic cellulose ethers, (C 1 ~C 4 ) alkylcelluloses, such as methylcellulose and ethylcellulose (e.g., Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical); (poly)hydroxy(C 1 ~C 4 ) alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose (e.g., Natrosol 250 HHR provided by Aqualon) and hydroxypropylcellulose (e.g., Klucel EF from Aqualon); mixed (poly)hydroxy (C 1 ~C 4 )Alkyl(C 1 ~C 4 ) Alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropyl methylcellulose (eg Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical), hydroxyethyl methylcellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose (eg Bermocoll E 481 FQ from Akzo Nobel) and hydroxybutyl methylcellulose may be mentioned.

[0333] Preferably, the non-ionic polysaccharides are selected from cellulose, galactomannans and their non-ionic derivatives, especially their ethers, either alone or in admixture; and even better still, from (poly)hydroxy (C 1 ~C 6 ) non-ionic guar gum modified with alkyl, especially hydroxypropyl, groups; and / or substituted or unsubstituted celluloses and cellulose ethers, such as (C 1 ~C 4 ) Alkyl cellulose and (poly)hydroxy (C 1 ~C 4 ) alkyl cellulose, etc.

[0334] Preferably, the non-ionic polysaccharides are, alone or in admixture, optionally (poly)hydroxy (C 1 ~C 6 ) non-ionic guar gum modified with alkyl, especially hydroxypropyl groups (INCI name: Hydroxypropyl Guar).

[0335] When nonionic polysaccharides are present, the composition according to the invention may contain them in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight and even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0336] When present, the composition according to the invention may comprise a total amount of nonionic polysaccharides chosen from cellulose, galactomannans and their nonionic derivatives, especially their ethers, and mixtures thereof, ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight and even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0337] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise one or more cationic polymers and one or more nonionic polysaccharides; in particular one or more cationic polysaccharides and one or more nonionic polysaccharides; and better still one or more cationic polysaccharides selected from cationic guar gum and cationic cellulose, and one or more nonionic guar gums.

[0338] Nonionic Surfactants The compositions according to the invention may optionally contain one or more non-ionic surfactants.

[0339] As examples of non-ionic surfactants, the following compounds may be mentioned, alone or in mixtures: -Oxyalkylenation (C 8 ~C 24 ) alkylphenols, - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched oxyalkylenated or glycerolated C, preferably containing one or two fatty chains 8 ~C 40 alcohol; - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched oxyalkylenated C 8 ~C 30 fatty acid amides, - Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 8 ~C 30 Esters of acids with polyethylene glycol; - Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 8 ~C 30 esters of acids with sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated; -esters of fatty acids with sucrose; - optionally oxyalkylenated alkyl (poly)glycosides (0-10 oxyalkylene units), which may contain from 1 to 15 glucose units; - saturated or unsaturated oxyethylated vegetable oils; - condensation products of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide; -N-(C 8 ~C 30 ) alkyl glucamine and N-(C8 ~C 30 ) acylmethylglucamine derivatives; -Amine oxides.

[0340] The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units or a combination thereof, preferably oxyethylene units.

[0341] The number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide preferably ranges from 1 to 250, more particularly from 2 to 100 and better still from 2 to 50; the number of moles of glycerol in particular ranges from 1 to 50 and better still from 1 to 10.

[0342] Advantageously, the non-ionic surfactant according to the invention does not contain oxypropylene units.

[0343] Preferably, they contain a number of moles of ethylene oxide ranging from 1 to 250, in particular from 2 to 100 and better still from 2 to 50.

[0344] Examples of glycerolated nonionic surfactants include mono- or polyglycerolated C 2 , C 3 , C 4 , C 5 , C 6 , C 7 , C 8 , C 9 , C 10 , C 11 , C 12 , C 13 , C 14 , C 15 , C 16 , C 17 , C 18 , C 19 , C 20 , C 8 ~C 40 Alcohol is preferably used.

[0345] Mention may be made of lauryl alcohol with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 lauryl ether), lauryl alcohol with 1.5 moles of glycerol, oleyl alcohol with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 oleyl ether), oleyl alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 oleyl ether), cetearyl alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol with 6 moles of glycerol, oleyl / cetyl alcohol with 6 moles of glycerol and octadecanol with 6 moles of glycerol.

[0346] Of the glycerolated alcohols, C with 1 mole of glycerol 8 ~C 10 Alcohol, C with 1 mole of glycerol 10 ~C 12 alcohol, and 1.5 moles of glycerol 12 It is particularly preferred to use alcohol.

[0347] Nonionic surfactants of the alkyl (poly)glycoside type can in particular be represented by the following general formula: 1 O-(R 2 O) t -(G) v (In the formula: -R 1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group containing 6 to 24 carbon atoms, particularly 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl group, the linear or branched alkyl group of which contains 6 to 24 carbon atoms, particularly 8 to 18 carbon atoms; -R 2 represents an alkylene group containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms, -G represents a sugar unit containing 5 to 6 carbon atoms; -t is a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4; -v refers to a value ranging from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4).

[0348] Preferably, the alkyl (poly)glycoside surfactant is a compound of the above formula, which is: -R 1 refers to a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl group containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms, -R 2 represents an alkylene group containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms, -t is a value ranging from 0 to 3, preferably equal to 0; -G refers to glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose; The degree of polymerization, ie the value of v, can range from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization is more particularly between 1 and 2.

[0349] The glycosidic bonds between the saccharide units are usually of the 1-6 or 1-4 type, preferably of the 1-4 type. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant. 8 / C 16 Very particular preference is given to alkyl (poly)glucosides, in particular decyl glucoside and caprylyl / capryl glucoside.

[0350] Among the commercially available products, mention may be made of the products sold under the names Plantaren® (600 CS / U, 1200 and 2000) or Plantacare® (818, 1200 and 2000) by Cognis; the products sold under the names Oramix CG 110 and Oramix® NS 10 by SEPPIC; the product sold under the name Lutensol GD 70 by BASF or the product sold under the name AG10 LK by Chem Y.

[0351] Preference is given to C 1-4 type, such as that sold under the name Plantacare® 818 UP by Cognis, in particular as a 53% aqueous solution. 8 / C 16 Alkyl (poly)glycosides are utilized.

[0352] The nonionic surfactants used in the compositions according to the invention are preferentially chosen, alone or in mixtures, from: - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched oxyethylenated C containing 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide, more particularly 2 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide; 8 ~C 40 alcohols; these preferably contain one or two fatty chains; - saturated or unsaturated oxyethylenated vegetable oils containing from 1 to 100 mol, preferably from 2 to 50 mol, of ethylene oxide; - preferably containing 1 to 15 glucose units, optionally oxyalkylenated with 0 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide (C 8 ~C 30 ) alkyl (poly)glycosides; - mono- or polyglycerolated C containing from 1 to 50 moles of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 10 moles of glycerol; 8 ~C 40 alcohol; - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched oxyalkylenated C 8 ~C 30 fatty acid amides, -Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 8 ~C 30 Esters of acids with polyethylene glycol; - Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 8 ~C 30 Esters of acids with sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated.

[0353] More preferentially, the nonionic surfactants used in the composition according to the invention are chosen, alone or in mixtures, from: - containing from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide, more particularly from 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide, and containing one or two fatty chains, in particular at least one C 8 ~C 20 , especially C 10 ~C 18 Saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched chain oxyethylenated C containing alkyl chains 8 ~C 40 alcohol; - Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 8 ~C 30 esters of acids and sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated; and - preferably containing 0 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide and containing 1 to 15 glucose units, optionally oxyalkylenated (C 8 ~C 30 )Alkyl (poly)glucosides.

[0354] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises nonionic surfactants in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight and preferentially from 0.2% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0355] fatty substances The compositions used according to the invention may optionally contain one or more non-silicone fatty materials which may be chosen from solid fatty materials, liquid fatty materials and mixtures thereof.

[0356] "Non-silicone fatty substance" is understood to mean a fatty substance which does not contain Si-O bonds.

[0357] "Solid fatty substance" is understood to mean a fatty substance having a melting point at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105 Pa) above 25° C., preferably above 28° C., preferably above 30° C.

[0358] Advantageously, the solid fatty substances that may be used in the invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0359] The solid fatty substances may be chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes and ceramides, and mixtures thereof.

[0360] "Fatty acid" is understood to mean a carboxylic acid having a long chain containing from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The solid fatty acids according to the invention preferentially contain from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolized. The solid fatty acids which can be used in the invention are in particular selected from myristic acid, cetyl acid, stearylic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid and mixtures thereof. The said fatty acids are different from (poly)hydroxylated carboxylic acids containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0361] "Fatty alcohol" is understood to mean fatty alcohols containing 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and having a long chain containing at least one hydroxyl OH group. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and contain 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and better still 12 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0362] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol has the structure R-OH, where R denotes a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferentially from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, still more practically from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. The solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from saturated, linear or branched, preferably saturated, linear (mono)alcohols, containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, still more practically from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0363] The solid fatty alcohols which can be used can be chosen, alone or in mixtures, from: - myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); - cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); -stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); - arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); - behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); - lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); - seryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); -montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); -Myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0364] Preferentially, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol; even better, the solid fatty alcohol is cetylstearyl alcohol.

[0365] The solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably 9 ~C 26 from fatty carboxylic acids and / or C 9 ~C 26 It is selected from esters derived from fatty alcohols.

[0366] Preferably, these solid fatty esters are esters of saturated linear or branched carboxylic acids containing at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more particularly 12 to 24 carbon atoms, with saturated linear or branched monohydric alcohols containing at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more particularly 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

[0367] C 4 ~C 22 Di- or tricarboxylic acids and C 1 ~C 22 Esters with alcohols and di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated C with mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids 2 ~C 26 Esters with alcohols may also be used.

[0368] In particular, mention may be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate and mixtures thereof.

[0369] Preferably, the solid ester of a fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol is palmitic acid C 9 ~C 26 Alkyl, especially myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate or stearyl palmitate; myristic acid C 9 ~C 26 Alkyl myristate, such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; and stearate C 9 ~C 26 alkyl stearate, especially myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate and stearyl stearate; and mixtures thereof.

[0370] Particularly preferably, the solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols are selected from myristyl stearate, myristyl palmitate and mixtures thereof.

[0371] Within the meaning of the present invention, waxes are lipophilic compounds that are solid at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure, have a reversible solid / liquid state change, have a melting point that is higher than approximately 40° C. and can range up to 200° C., and have an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state. In general, the size of the wax crystals is such that they diffract and / or scatter light, giving a more or less opaque, cloudy appearance to the composition containing them. Bringing the wax to its melting point makes it miscible with oils, allowing the formation of a microscopically homogeneous mixture, while returning the temperature of the mixture to ambient temperature results in a recrystallization of the wax (white turbidity) that is microscopically and macroscopically detectable.

[0372] In particular, waxes suitable for the present invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable or mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof.

[0373] Mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax or modified beeswax (sera verina), lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, spermaceti; cork fibre or sugarcane wax, olive tree wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, espartograss wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and bacchus wax; floral absolute waxes; montan wax, orange wax and lemon wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffin, petroleum jelly, lignite and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by the Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, waxy copolymers and their esters.

[0374] In addition, C such as Microwax HW 20 ~C 60 Microcrystalline waxes may also be mentioned.

[0375] Mention may also be made of the MW 500 polyethylene wax sold under the designation Permalen 50-L Polyethylene.

[0376] In addition, linear or branched chain C8 ~C 32 Mention may be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having fatty chains. Among these waxes, mention may be made in particular of isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans-isomerized and partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular that produced or sold by Desert Whale under the commercial designation Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, such as that sold by Heterene under the name Hest 2T-4S®.

[0377] It is also possible to use waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax Castor 16L64® and 22L73® by Sophim.

[0378] As wax, C 20 ~C 40 Alkyl(hydroxystearyloxy)stearates (alkyl radicals containing 20 to 40 carbon atoms) of the formula: can be used, alone or as a mixture. Such waxes are in particular sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P® and Kester Wax K 80 P® by Koster Keunen.

[0379] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; mention may be made in particular of carnauba microwaxes, such as those sold under the name MicroCare 350 (registered trademark) by Micro Powders, synthetic wax microwaxes, such as those sold under the name MicroEase 114S (registered trademark) by Micro Powders, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those sold under the name MicroCare 300 (registered trademark) and 310 (registered trademark) by Micro Powders, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic wax, such as those sold under the name MicroCare 325 (registered trademark) by Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes, such as those sold under the name Micropoly 200 (registered trademark), 220 (registered trademark), 220L (registered trademark) and 250S (registered trademark) by Micro Powders, and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as those sold under the name Microslip 519 (registered trademark) and 519L (registered trademark) by Micro Powders.

[0380] The wax is preferably selected from mineral waxes, such as paraffin, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite wax; vegetable waxes, such as cocoa butter, shea butter or cork fibre or sugar cane wax, olive tree wax, rice bran wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, ouricury wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, espartograss wax or floral absolute waxes, such as the essential wax of blackcurrant flowers sold by Bertin (France); waxes of animal origin, such as beeswax or modified beeswax (sera verina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.

[0381] Ceramides or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides which may be used in the compositions according to the invention are known; mention may be made in particular of the ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the Dawning classification.

[0382] The ceramide or analogue thereof that may be used preferably corresponds to the following formula: [ka] (In the formula, -R 1 is C 14 ~C 30 refers to a saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched chain alkyl group derived from a fatty acid, which is bound at the α-position by a hydroxyl group or by a saturated or unsaturated C 16 ~C 30 It can be substituted with a hydroxyl group at the ω-position which is esterified with a fatty acid; -R 2 is a hydrogen atom, (glycosyl) n Group, (galactosyl) m group or a sulfogalactosyl group (wherein n is an integer of 1 to 4, and m is an integer of 1 to 8); -R 3 is saturated or unsaturated at the α position 15 ~C 26 A hydrocarbon group having one or more C 1 ~C 14 may be substituted with alkyl groups; If it is a natural ceramide or glycoceramide, R 3 α-hydroxy (C 15 ~C 26 ) alkyl group, the hydroxyl group being an α-hydroxy C 16 ~C 30 It is understood that it is optionally esterified with an acid.

[0383] Preferentially, R 1 C 14 ~C 30 R represents a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from a fatty acid; 2represents a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; R 3 -CH=CH-(CH 2 ) 12 -CH 3 The ceramide showing group is used.

[0384] More particularly preferred ceramides are 1 C 16 ~C 22 R represents a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from a fatty acid; 2 indicates a hydrogen atom, and R 3 is saturated or unsaturated linear C 15 It is a compound showing the group.

[0385] R 1 C 12 ~C 22 R represents a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from a fatty acid; 2 represents a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; R 3 Saturated or unsaturated C 12 ~C 22 Hydrocarbon groups, preferably -CH=CH-(CH 2 ) 12 -CH 3 Compounds exhibiting the group may also be used.

[0386] Particularly preferred compounds are 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-oleylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxypalmitoyl]aminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3,4-triol, and in particular N-stearoylphytosphingosine. Mention may also be made of 2-N-palmitoylaminohexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl-N-methyl-D-glucamine, cetyl acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide, and bis(N-hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine will be used.

[0387] Among the liquid fatty substances that may be used, mention may be made of liquid hydrocarbons, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, oils of triglyceride type of vegetable or synthetic origin, mineral oils and mixtures thereof.

[0388] Liquid fatty substances have a viscosity of (1.013 × 10 5 Pa), and a melting point of 25° C. or less, preferably 20° C. or less.

[0389] Advantageously, the liquid fatty substance is not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0390] It should be remembered that fatty alcohols, fatty esters and fatty acids more particularly denote at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon group containing from 6 to 40, better still from 8 to 30, carbon atoms and optionally substituted, in particular with one or more, in particular with one to four, hydroxyl groups. When they are unsaturated, these compounds may contain from 1 to 3 conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0391] Liquid hydrocarbons are 6 ~C 18 They may be liquid hydrocarbons, which may be linear, branched or optionally cyclic; they are preferably C 8 ~C 16 Especially C. 10 ~C 14 Examples include alkanes such as hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane or isoparaffins such as isohexadecane or isodecane, and mixtures thereof.

[0392] The liquid hydrocarbons may be chosen from those containing 17 or more carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched, and which may be of mineral or synthetic origin; mention may be made of liquid paraffin or liquid petrolatum, polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutenes, such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.

[0393] The triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin can be chosen from liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides or, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, mallow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stearinerie Dubois or under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil or shea oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0394] The liquid fatty alcohol may be selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols containing from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0395] The liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than the triglycerides mentioned above may be saturated or unsaturated linear C 1 ~C 26 or branched chain C 3 ~C 26 Aliphatic mono- or poly-acids and saturated or unsaturated linear C 1 ~C 26 or branched chain C 3 ~C 26 They can be selected from esters with aliphatic monohydric or polyhydric alcohols, the total carbon number of the ester being 6 or more, more preferably 10 or more.

[0396] Preferably, for esters of monoalcohols, at least one of the alcohol or acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched chain.

[0397] Among the monoesters, dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; acetylricinoleic acid Examples include methyl; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; alkyl palmitates such as ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, and the like; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or 2-octyldodecyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

[0398] Preferably, among the monoesters of monohydric acids and monohydric alcohols, ethyl palmitate or isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates, such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, and isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof, will be used.

[0399] Furthermore, within this alternative context, C 4 ~C 22 Di- or tricarboxylic acids and C 1 ~C 22 Esters with alcohols and mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acids and C 2 ~C 26 Esters with di-, tri-, tetra-, or pentahydroxylated alcohols may also be used.

[0400] In particular, the following may be mentioned: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyloxystearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; tetraoctane Examples of suitable oleic acid salts include pentaerythrityl acetate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and polyethylene glycol distearate; and mixtures thereof.

[0401] The composition also contains, as the fatty ester, C 6 ~C 30 , preferably C 12 ~C 22 They may include sugar esters and diesters of fatty acids. It should be remembered that "sugar" is understood to mean oxygen-containing hydrocarbon compounds having several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and containing at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

[0402] As suitable sugars there may be mentioned, for example, sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose and derivatives thereof, in particular alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0403] The sugar esters of fatty acids are specifically those which are composed of the aforementioned sugars and saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 6 ~C 30 , preferably C 12~C 22 The fatty acids may be selected from the group consisting of esters or mixtures of esters with the fatty acids of the formula: When they are unsaturated, these compounds may contain 1 to 3 conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0404] The esters according to this alternative may also be selected from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.

[0405] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, behenates, coconut acids, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonic acids or mixtures thereof, such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleate / palmitate, oleate / stearate and palmitate / stearate.

[0406] More particularly, mono- and diesters are used, in particular the mono- or dioleate esters of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, stearates, behenates, oleates / palmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleates / stearates, and mixtures thereof.

[0407] As an example, mention may be made of the product sold by Amerchol under the name Glucate® DO, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0408] Preferably, liquid esters of monobasic acids and monohydric alcohols will be used.

[0409] Preferably, the fatty substance is a triglyceride oil of vegetable or synthetic origin, a liquid ester of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, liquid C 6 ~C 18It is selected from hydrocarbons, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0410] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise fatty substances in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, better still from 1% to 18% by weight, preferentially from 2% to 15% by weight and even better still from 5% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0411] Additional Compounds The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises water, in particular in a concentration ranging from 50% to 95% by weight, for example from 55% to 90% by weight, more particularly from 60% to 85% by weight and better still from 65% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The pH of the composition may be between 2.5 and 8, preferentially between 3 and 7 and even more practically between 4 and 6.

[0412] The compositions used according to the invention are liquid at 25° C. and 1 atmosphere and 1 ~C 6 Aliphatic or aromatic monoalcohols, C 2 ~C 8 Polyol and C 3 ~C 7 It may optionally contain one or more preferably hydrophilic (water-soluble or water-miscible) organic solvents, which may be selected from polyol ethers. Advantageously, the organic solvent is selected from C 2 ~C 4 It is selected from mono-, di- or tridiol. It may advantageously be selected from ethanol, isopropanol, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, 1,2-propanediol (propylene glycol) and mixtures thereof.

[0413] The compositions used according to the invention may further comprise at least one or more standard cosmetic ingredients selected in particular from thickeners, gelling agents (both different from the above-mentioned polymers); sunscreens; antidandruff agents; antioxidants; chelating agents; reducing agents; oxidizing bases, couplers, oxidizing agents, direct dyes; hair-straightening agents; pearlescent agents and opacifiers; mica, pearlescent agents, glitters; plasticizers or coalescing agents; pigments; fillers; fragrances; basifying or acidifying agents; silanes. The skilled person will carefully select the ingredients involved in the composition and their amounts so that the properties of the composition of the invention are not impaired.

[0414] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the hair composition used in the method according to the invention may comprise (as a pre-shampoo) - one or more amino acid type compounds corresponding to formula (I) as defined above, where p=2 and R is optionally interrupted by a hydrogen atom or an -S-heteroatom and / or by a hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH 2 Saturated linear or branched (C 1 ~C 4 ) an alkyl group; and even better still, one or more amino acid type compounds in which R represents a hydrogen atom; one or more compounds of amino acid type present in a total content of at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.7% to 8% by weight and better still from 0.8% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids and / or their salts containing 4 to 6 carbon atoms, 1 to 3 OH groups and 2 or 3 COOH groups, preferably present in a total content of at least 0.5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 1% to 8% by weight and better still from 1.5% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; optionally one or more associative polymers, preferably non-ionic and better still chosen from polyether polyurethanes; one or more associative polymers, preferably present in the composition in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight and more particularly from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; optionally one or more silicones, preferably chosen from aminated silicones, non-aminated silicones and mixtures thereof; one or more silicones present in the composition in a total content ranging from 0.3% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 4% by weight, preferentially from 0.6% to 3% by weight and even more preferentially from 0.7% to 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; optionally one or more cationic surfactants, preferably chosen from those of formula (II) above, those of formula (V) above, those of formula (VI) above and mixtures thereof, better still chosen from those of formula (II) above, those of formula (VI) above and mixtures thereof; cationic surfactants present in the composition in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 8% by weight, preferentially from 0.3% to 7% by weight and even better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; optionally one or more cationic polysaccharides chosen in particular from cellulose and / or cationic galactomannan gum; preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight and even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; - optionally, in particular, alone or in admixture, optionally (poly)hydroxy (C 1 ~C 6) one or more nonionic polysaccharides selected from the group consisting of nonionic guar gums modified with alkyl groups; preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; - one or more nonionic surfactants, optionally present in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight and preferentially from 0.2% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0415] B / Cleaning composition The hair treatment method according to the invention also comprises a "washing" step (ii) consisting of the application to the hair of a cleansing cosmetic composition comprising one or more anionic surfactants and / or one or more amphoteric surfactants, and also mixtures thereof.

[0416] In known manner, the cleaning composition, or shampoo, may also contain one or more non-ionic surfactants.

[0417] Anionic Surfactants The cleansing cosmetic composition may comprise one or more anionic surfactants. "Anionic surfactant" is understood to mean surfactants which contain only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups.

[0418] As used herein, an entity is described as "anionic" if it has at least one permanent negative charge or if it is capable of ionizing to give a negatively charged object under the conditions of use (e.g., medium or pH) of the compositions of the invention and does not contain a cationic charge.

[0419] The anionic surfactants may be sulfate, sulfonate, and / or carboxylic acid (or carboxylate) surfactants. Quite obviously, mixtures of these surfactants may be used.

[0420] In this specification, it is understood that: -Carboxylate anionic surfactants contain at least one carboxylic acid or carboxylate group (-COOH or -COO - ) functional groups and may optionally further include one or more sulfate and / or sulfonate functional groups; -sulfonate anionic surfactants contain at least one sulfonate (-SO 3 H or -SO 3 - ) functional groups, and may optionally further include one or more sulfate functional groups, but does not include a carboxylate functional group; and -Sulfate anionic surfactants contain at least one sulfate functional group but no carboxylate or sulfonate functional groups.

[0421] Thus, the carboxylate anionic surfactants that can be used are those that contain at least one carboxylic acid or carboxylate (-COOH or -COO - ) functional groups.

[0422] They can be chosen from the following compounds: acyl glycinates, acyl lactylates, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates; alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl (C 6 ~ 30 and salts of these compounds in which the alkyl and / or acyl groups contain from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28 carbon atoms, even better from 14 to 24 carbon atoms and even more preferably from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denotes a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds can be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and in that case preferably contain from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0423] Polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acid C 6 ~C24 Alkyl monoesters, such as C 6 ~C 24 Alkyl polyglycoside-citrate, C 6 ~C 24 Alkyl polyglycoside-tartrate and C 6 ~C 24 Alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates and the like, as well as their salts, may also be used.

[0424] Among the abovementioned carboxylic acid surfactants, mention may be made of the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amide)ether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those containing 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene oxide groups, such as the compounds offered by Kao Corporation under the name Akipo.

[0425] The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amide) ether carboxylic acids which can be used are preferably selected from those of formula (1): R 1’ -(OC 2 H 4 ) n’ -OCH 2 COOA (1) (In the formula, -R 1’ is a linear or branched chain C 6 ~C 24 Alkyl or alkenyl groups, (C 8 ~C 9 ) alkylphenyl group, group R 2’ CONH-CH 2 -CH 2 -(In the formula, R 2’ is a straight or branched chain C 9 ~C 21 represents an alkyl or alkenyl group; preferably, R 1’ is C 8 ~C 20 , preferably C 8 ~C 18 is an alkyl group; -n' is an integer or decimal (average value) ranging from 2 to 24, preferably from 2 to 10; -A represents H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue.

[0426] Mixtures of compounds of formula (1), in particular compounds having different R 1’ It is also possible to use mixtures of compounds bearing the group.

[0427] Particularly preferred polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amide) ether carboxylic acids are of formula (1) as follows: -R 1’ Linear or branched chain C 8 ~C 22 Especially C. 10 ~C 16 In reality, C 12 ~C 14 Indicates an alkyl group or (C 8 ~C 9 ) an alkylphenyl group; -A represents a hydrogen or sodium atom; -n' is in the range of 2 to 20, preferably 2 to 10.

[0428] Even more preferentially, R 1’ C 12 ~C 14 A compound of formula (1) is used, in which A represents an alkyl, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl, or octylphenyl group, A represents a hydrogen or sodium atom, and n' is in the range of 2 to 10.

[0429] Preferably, among the commercially available products, the products sold by Kao Corporation under the following names: Akipo(R) NP 70(R 1 = nonylphenyl, n=7, A=H) Akipo(R) NP 40(R 1 = nonylphenyl, n = 4, A = H) Akipo(R) OP 40(R 1 = octylphenyl, n = 4, A = H) Akipo(R) OP 80(R 1= octylphenyl, n = 8, A = H) Akipo(R) OP 190(R 1 = octylphenyl, n = 19, A = H) Akipo® RLM 38(R 1 =(C 12 ~C 14 )Alkyl, n=4, A=H) Akipo® RLM 38 NV(R 1 =(C 12 ~C 14 ) alkyl, n=4, A=Na) Akipo(R) RLM 45 CA(R 1 =(C 12 ~C 14 ) alkyl, n=4.5, A=H) Akipo® RLM 45 NV(R 1 =(C 12 ~C 14 ) alkyl, n=4.5, A=Na) Akipo® RLM 100(R 1 =(C 12 ~C 14 ) alkyl, n=10, A=H) Akipo® RLM 100 NV(R 1 =(C 12 ~C 14 ) alkyl, n=10, A=Na) Akipo® RLM 130(R 1 =(C 12 ~C 14 ) alkyl, n=13, A=H) Akipo® RLM 160 NV(R 1 =(C 12 ~C 14 ) alkyl, n=16, A=Na), or products sold by Sandoz under the following names: Sandopan DTC-Acid(R 1 =(C 13 ) alkyl, n=6, A=H) Sandopan DTC (R 1 =(C 13 ) alkyl, n=6, A=Na) Sandopan LS 24(R 1 =(C 12 ~C 14 ) alkyl, n=12, A=Na) Sandopan JA 36(R 1 =(C 13 ) alkyl, n=18, A=H), More specifically, products sold under the following names: Akipo® RLM 45 (INCI: Laureth-5 Carboxylic Acid) Akipo® RLM 100 Akipo® RLM 38 may be used.

[0430] Preferentially, the carboxylate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or in mixtures, from: -Acyl glutamates, especially C 6 ~C 24 Acylglutamates, and in fact C 12 ~C 20 Acyl glutamates, such as stearoyl glutamate, especially disodium stearoyl glutamate; -Acyl sarcosinates, especially C 6 ~C 24 Acyl sarcosinates, more specifically C 12 ~C 20 Acyl sarcosinates, such as palmitoyl sarcosinates, especially sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate; -Acyl lactylates, especially C 12 ~C 28 Acyl lactylates, and more specifically C 14 ~C 24 Acyl lactylates, such as behenoyl lactylate, especially sodium behenoyl lactylate; -C 6 ~C 24 Acylglycinates, especially C 12 ~C 20 Acyl glycinates; -(C 6 ~C 24) alkyl ether carboxylates, especially (C 12 ~C 20 ) alkyl ether carboxylates, in particular those containing 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups; -Polyoxyalkylation (C 6 ~C 24 ) alkylamide ether carboxylic acids, specifically those containing 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups; In particular, those in the acid form or in the form of an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, or amino alcohol salt.

[0431] Preferably, the polyoxyalkylenated (C 6 ~C 24 ) Alkyl ether carboxylic acids and their salts are used.

[0432] The sulfonate anionic surfactants that can be used contain at least one sulfonate group (-SO 3 H or -SO 3 - ) They can be chosen from the following compounds: alkylsulfonates, (alkyl ether)sulfonates, alkylamidosulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-olefinsulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidosulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates, alkylsulfolaurates; and also the salts of these compounds; The alkyl groups of these compounds contain from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28 carbon atoms, even better from 14 to 24 carbon atoms and more preferably from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably represents a phenyl or benzyl group; These compounds may be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably contain from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0433] Preferentially, the sulfonate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or in mixtures, from: -C 6 ~C 24 Especially C. 12 ~C 20 Olefin sulfonates; -C 6 ~C 24 , especially C 12 ~C 20 Alkyl sulfosuccinates, especially lauryl sulfosuccinate; -C 6 ~C 24 , especially C 12 ~C 20 Alkyl ether sulfosuccinates; -(C 6 ~C 24 ) acyl isethionates, preferably (C 12 ~C 18 ) acyl isethionates; Particularly in the form of the alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

[0434] Usable sulfate anionic surfactants contain at least one sulfate group (-OSO 3 H or -OSO 3 - ).

[0435] They can be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl amido ether sulfates, alkyl aryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; and also the salts of these compounds; The alkyl groups of these compounds contain from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28 carbon atoms, even better from 14 to 24 carbon atoms and more preferably from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably represents a phenyl or benzyl group; These compounds may be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably contain from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0436] Preferentially, the sulfate anionic surfactants may be chosen, alone or in mixtures, from: -Alkyl sulfates, especially C 6 ~C 24 , and in fact C 12 ~C 20 Alkyl sulfates; and - alkyl ether sulfates, preferably containing 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units, in particular C 6 ~C 24 , and in fact C 12 ~C 20 Alkyl ether sulfates; Particularly in the form of the alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

[0437] When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, the salt may be selected from alkali metal salts, such as sodium or potassium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, especially amino alcohol salts, and alkaline earth metal salts, such as magnesium salts.

[0438] As examples of amino alcohol salts, mention may be made of the mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, the mono-, di- or triisopropanolamine salts, or the 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

[0439] Preferably, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, especially sodium or magnesium salts, are used.

[0440] Preferentially, the anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or in mixtures, from: -C 6 ~C 24, especially C 12 ~C 20 Alkyl sulfates; -C 6 ~C 24 , especially C 12 ~C 20 Alkyl ether sulfates; preferably those containing 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units; -C 6 ~C 24 , especially C 12 ~C 20 Alkyl sulfosuccinates; especially lauryl sulfosuccinate; -C 6 ~C 24 Especially C. 12 ~C 20 Olefin sulfonates; -C 6 ~C 24 , especially C 12 ~C 20 Alkyl ether sulfosuccinates; -(C 6 ~C 24 ) acyl isethionates, preferably (C 12 ~C 18 ) acyl isethionates; -C 6 ~C 24 , especially C 12 ~C 20 acyl sarcosinates, especially palmitoyl sarcosinate; -(C 6 ~C 24 ) alkyl ether carboxylates, preferably (C 12 ~C 20 ) alkyl ether carboxylates; in particular those containing 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups; -Polyoxyalkylenated (C 6 ~C 24 ) alkylamido ether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those containing 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene oxide groups; -C 6 ~C 24 , especially C 12 ~C 20 Acyl glutamates; -C 6 ~C 24 , especially C 12 ~C 20 Acyl glycinates; In particular, those in the acid form or in the form of an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, or amino alcohol salt.

[0441] Preferentially, the composition contains one or more sulfate anionic surfactants, preferably one or more C 6 ~C 24 , especially C 12 ~C 20 Alkyl sulfate and / or one or more C alkyl groups preferably containing 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units. 6 ~C 24 , especially C 12 ~C 20 Alkyl ether sulfates are included, especially those in the form of the alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, or amino alcohol salts.

[0442] The anionic surfactants are present in the cleaning composition according to the invention in a total amount ranging from 2% to 30% by weight, in particular from 4% to 25% by weight, better still from 5% to 20% by weight and even better still from 6% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0443] Amphoteric surfactants The cleaning composition according to the invention may comprise one or more amphoteric surfactants.

[0444] In particular, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are non-silicone surfactants. They may in particular be optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary fatty acid amine derivatives, whose aliphatic group is linear or branched containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, and which contain at least one anionic group, such as a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

[0445] For details, see (C 8 ~C20 ) Alkylbetaine, C 8 ~C 20 ) alkyl sulfobetaine, (C 8 ~C 20 ) Alkylamide (C 3 ~C 8 ) alkyl betaine, and (C 8 ~C 20 ) Alkylamide (C 6 ~C 8 ) Alkyl sulfobetaines can be mentioned.

[0446] Among the optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary fatty acid amine derivatives that can be used as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds having the following structures (II) and (III), respectively:

[0447] R a -CONHCH 2 CH 2 -N + (R b )(R c )-CH 2 COO - M + X - (II) (In the formula, -R a is the acid R preferably present in the hydrolyzed coconut oil a C derived from COOH 10 ~C 30 represents an alkyl or alkenyl group, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group; -R b represents a β-hydroxyethyl group; and -R c represents a carboxymethyl group; -M + represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, e.g., sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from an organic amine; -X - are halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C 1 ~C 4) alkyl sulfate, (C 1 ~C 4 ) alkyl- or (C 1 ~C 4 ) an organic or inorganic anionic counterion such as those selected from alkylarylsulfonates, especially methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; or M + and X- does not exist).

[0448] R a’ -CONHCH 2 CH 2 -N(B)(B') (III) (In the formula, -B is -CH 2 -CH 2 represents an -OX' group; -B' is -(CH 2 ) z represents a Y′ group, where z=1 or 2; -X' is -CH 2 COOH, -CH 2 -COOZ', -CH 2 CH 2 COOH or -CH 2 CH 2 -COOZ' group or a hydrogen atom; -Y' is -COOH, -COOZ', or -CH 2 CH(OH)SO 3 H group or -CH 2 CH(OH)SO 3 represents a -Z' group; -Z' represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from an organic amine; -R a’ is preferably an acid R present in hydrolyzed linseed oil or coconut oil. a’ -COOHC 10 ~C 30 Alkyl or alkenyl groups, alkyl groups, specifically C 17 Alkyl groups and their isoforms, or unsaturated C 17 (representing the group).

[0449] These compounds are classified in the CTFA Dictionary, Fifth Edition (1993) under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, and cocoamphodipropionic acid.

[0450] As an example, mention may be made of cocoamphodiacetate sold under the name Miranol® C2M Concentrate by Rhodia.

[0451] Compounds of formula (IV) may also be used: R a” -NHCH(Y")-(CH 2 ) n CONH(CH 2 ) n’ -N(R d )(R e ) (IV) (In the formula, -Y" is a group -COOH, -COOZ" or -CH 2 CH(OH)SO 3 H group or -CH 2 CH(OH)SO 3 -Z" represents a group; -R d and R e are, independently of each other, C 1 ~C 4 represents an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group; -Z" represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, e.g., sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from an organic amine; -R a” is preferably an acid R present in hydrolyzed linseed oil or coconut oil. a” -COOHC 10 ~C 30 represents an alkyl or alkenyl group; -n and n' each independently represent an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

[0452] Among the compounds of formula (II), mention may be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name Sodium Diethylaminopropyl Cocoaspartamide and sold by Chimex under the name Chimexane HB.

[0453] These compounds can be used alone or in mixtures.

[0454] Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, preferred are those (C 8 ~C 20 ) alkyl betaines, such as cocoyl betaine, (C 8 ~C 20 ) Alkylamide (C 3 ~C 8 ) Compounds of formula (IV) such as alkyl betaines, for example cocamidopropyl betaine, and mixtures thereof, as well as the sodium salt of diethylaminopropyl lauryl aminosuccinamate (INCI name: Sodium Diethylaminopropyl Cocoaspartamide) are used.

[0455] Preferentially, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant is (C 8 ~C 20 ) Alkylamide (C 3 ~C 8 ) alkyl betaines, such as cocamidopropyl betaine.

[0456] Preferably, the amphoteric surfactants are present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 3% to 20% by weight, preferentially from 3.5% to 15% by weight and better still from 4% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0457] Nonionic Surfactants Cosmetic compositions according to the invention may optionally contain one or more non-ionic surfactants, such as, inter alia, those described in Handbook of Surfactants, by MR Porter, 1991, 116-178, published by Blackie & Son, Glasgow and London.

[0458] As examples of non-ionic surfactants, the following compounds may be mentioned, alone or in mixtures: -Oxyalkylenation (C 8 ~C 24 ) alkylphenols; - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated C, preferably containing one or two fatty chains 8 ~C 40 alcohol; - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched oxyalkylenated C 8 ~C 30 Fatty acid amides; -saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C 8 ~C 30 Esters of acids with polyethylene glycol; - Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 8 ~C 30 esters of acids with sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated; -esters of fatty acids with sucrose; -(C 8 ~C 30 ) alkyl (poly)glucosides, (C 8 ~C 30 ) alkenyl (poly)glucosides, which are optionally oxyalkylenated and contain 1 to 15 glucose units; 8 ~C 30 ) alkyl (poly)glucoside esters; - oxyethylenated saturated or unsaturated vegetable oils; - condensation products of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide; -N-(C 8 ~C 30) alkyl glucamine and N-(C 8 ~C 30 ) acylmethylglucamine derivatives; -Amine oxides.

[0459] The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units or a combination thereof, preferably oxyethylene units.

[0460] The number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide preferably ranges from 1 to 250, more particularly from 2 to 100 and better still from 2 to 50; the number of moles of glycerol in particular ranges from 1 to 50 and better still from 1 to 10.

[0461] Advantageously, the non-ionic surfactant according to the invention does not contain oxypropylene units.

[0462] Preferably, they contain a number of moles of ethylene oxide ranging from 1 to 250, in particular from 2 to 100 and better still from 2 to 50.

[0463] Preferred examples of glycerolated nonionic surfactants include mono- or polyglycerolated C 2 , containing 1 to 50 moles of glycerol, preferably 1 to 10 moles of glycerol. 8 ~C 40 Alcohol is used.

[0464] As examples of this type of compound, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 lauryl ether), lauryl alcohol with 1.5 moles of glycerol, oleyl alcohol with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 oleyl ether), oleyl alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 oleyl ether), cetearyl alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol with 6 moles of glycerol, oleyl / cetyl alcohol with 6 moles of glycerol, and octadecanol with 6 moles of glycerol.

[0465] Preferably, among the glycerolized alcohols, C having 1 mole of glycerol 8 ~C 10 Alcohol, C with 1 mole of glycerol 10 ~C 12 alcohol, and 1.5 moles of glycerol 12 Alcohol is used.

[0466] The nonionic surfactants that can be used in the cleaning compositions according to the invention are preferentially chosen, alone or in mixtures, from: - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched oxyethylenated C containing 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide, more particularly 2 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide; 8 ~C 40 alcohols; these preferably contain one or two fatty chains; - saturated or unsaturated oxyethylenated vegetable oils containing from 1 to 100 mol, preferably from 2 to 50 mol, of ethylene oxide; - optionally oxyalkylenated with preferably 0 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide and containing 1 to 15 glucose units, (C 8 ~C 30 ) alkyl (poly)glucosides; - mono- or polyglycerolated C containing from 1 to 50 moles of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 10 moles of glycerol; 8 ~C 40 alcohol; - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched oxyalkylenated C 8 ~C 30 fatty acid amides, - Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 8 ~C 30 Esters of acids with polyethylene glycol; - Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 8 ~C 30 Esters of acids with sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated.

[0467] More preferentially, the non-ionic surfactants are chosen, alone or in mixtures, from: - containing from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide, more particularly from 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide, and containing one or two fatty chains, in particular at least one C 8 ~C 20 , especially C 10 ~C 18 Saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched chain oxyethylenated C containing alkyl chains 8 ~C 40 alcohol; - Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 8 ~C 30 esters of acids and sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated; and - optionally oxyalkylenated, preferably containing 1 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide and containing 1 to 15 glucose units (C 8 ~C 30 )Alkyl (poly)glucosides.

[0468] In particular, the cleaning composition may contain one or more nonionic surfactants of the alkyl (poly)glycoside type of the following general formula: R 1 O-(R 2 O)t -(G) v (In the formula, -R 1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group having 6 to 24 carbon atoms, particularly 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl group, the linear or branched alkyl group of which has 6 to 24 carbon atoms, particularly 8 to 18 carbon atoms; preferably a saturated or unsaturated linear or branched alkyl group having 8 to 18 carbon atoms; -R 2 represents an alkylene group containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms, -G represents a sugar unit containing 5 to 6 carbon atoms; preferably, glucose, fructose or galactose; better still, glucose; -t represents a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably ranging from 0 to 4, better still ranging from 0 to 3, and even better still being 0; -v represents a value ranging from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4, the average degree of polymerization (v) being more particularly between 1 and 2).

[0469] The glucosidic bonds between the sugar units are usually of the 1-6 or 1-4 type, preferably of the 1-4 type.

[0470] Preferably, the alkyl (poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl (poly)glucoside surfactant.

[0471] Preferably, the cleaning composition according to the invention comprises, if nonionic surfactants are present, a total content ranging from 0.05% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight and preferentially from 0.2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0472] Other Ingredients The composition according to the present invention is a mixture of water or water and C 1 ~C 4It may comprise a mixture with one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents selected from alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol and polyethylene glycol; and mixtures thereof.

[0473] Preferably, the cleaning composition according to the invention exhibits a total water content of from 20% to 95% by weight, preferably from 30% to 90% by weight, preferentially from 40% to 85% by weight and better still from 50% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0474] The pH of the cleaning composition according to the invention generally ranges from 3 to 9, preferably from 3 to 7, preferentially from 3.5 to 6 and better still from 4 to 5.5.

[0475] The cosmetic composition for cleaning according to the invention may further comprise at least one standard cosmetic ingredient, in particular selected from polymeric or non-polymeric conditioning agents; in particular cationic polymers, amphoteric polymers, silicones, organomodified silicones, such as aminated silicones; vegetable, mineral, animal or synthetic oils; liquid fatty alcohols; liquid fatty acid esters; solid fatty substances and in particular waxes, solid fatty acid esters, solid alcohols; ceramides; sunscreens; moisturizers; antidandruff agents; antioxidants; pearlescent and opacifying agents; plasticizers or coalescing agents; preservatives; sequestering agents (EDTA and its salts); colorants. The composition may of course comprise several of the cosmetic ingredients appearing in the above list. The skilled person will carefully select the ingredients involved in the composition and their amounts so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not adversely affected or are substantially adversely affected by the envisaged addition.

[0476] The method according to the invention is particularly suitable for treating hair, in particular for cleaning and / or conditioning sensitive, weakened and / or damaged hair or hair containing metal ions, in particular copper and / or calcium.

[0477] In particular, the method can be used to strengthen, and / or limit the loss of shine in, particularly sensitive, weak and / or damaged hair.

[0478] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention but are not of a limiting nature.

[0479] In the following examples, all amounts are given as weight percentage of active material relative to the total weight of the composition (g % AM), unless otherwise indicated. EXAMPLES

[0480] Example 1 The following compositions according to the invention were prepared from the ingredients shown in the table below (g % AM).

[0481] [Table 1]

[0482] Composition A is provided in the form of a cream and can be conveniently used as a pre-shampoo, before shampooing in rinse-out mode. This composition can be used to detangle hair and provide care and strength (softness, elasticity and bulk effect slightly less than typical care treatments). The composition also exhibits strengthening properties.

[0483] Composition B is provided in the form of a cream and can be conveniently used before shampooing in rinse-out mode. This composition can be used to detangle hair and provide care and strength (softness, elasticity and bulk effect slightly less than typical care treatments). The composition also exhibits strengthening properties.

Claims

1. 1. A method for cosmetically treating hair, comprising: (i) applying to said hair a cosmetic composition comprising: at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of one or more compounds of amino acid type, one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms and / or their salts; in particular those containing from 4 to 6 carbon atoms, 1 to 3 OH groups and 2 to 3 COOH groups, and / or their salts, especially the alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or zinc salts; then (ii) washing the hair, comprising applying a cosmetic cleansing composition comprising one or more anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants; wherein said step (ii) of washing the hair is carried out at most 60 minutes after said step (i).

2. 2. The method according to claim 1, wherein the compound of amino acid type is selected from the compounds corresponding to formula (I) and / or their salts, in particular the alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or zinc salts: 【Chemistry 1】 where p is an integer equal to 1 or 2; When p=1, R together with the nitrogen atom form a saturated heterocyclic ring containing 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 ring members, which ring is preferably free of hydroxyl or (C １ ~C ４ ) alkyl; When p=2, R is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from hydrogen atoms or -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)-, and / or hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH ２ ), -SH, -COOH, -CONH ２ Or -NH-C(NH)-NH ２ Saturated, linear or branched (C １ ~C １２ ) alkyl, preferably (C １ ~C ４ ) represents an alkyl group; Preferably, p=2 and R is optionally interrupted by a hydrogen atom or an -S-heteroatom and / or a hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH ２ Saturated, linear or branched (C １ ~C ４ ) an alkyl group; even better, p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom; Even better, said compound of amino acid type is chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts, especially the alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or zinc salts, and mixtures thereof; preferentially from glycine, its salts, especially the alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or zinc salts, and mixtures thereof).

3. 3. The method according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the total content of compounds of amino acid type ranges from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.7% to 8% by weight and better still from 0.8% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. 4. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the composition comprises one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids chosen from lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid, and their salts, especially the alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts; very particularly citric acid and / or tartaric acid and also their salts, especially the alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, such as sodium citrate and / or sodium tartrate; and better still citric acid or its salts, especially the alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, such as sodium citrate.

5. 5. The method according to claim 1, wherein the total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids and / or their salts containing in total from 2 to 8 carbon atoms is at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; better still, it ranges from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 1% to 8% by weight and even better still from 1.5% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition applied in step (i) comprises one or more associative polymers, preferably non-ionic and preferentially chosen from polyether polyurethanes, in particular in a total content between 0.01% and 10% by weight, preferentially between 0.05% and 5% by weight and more preferentially between 0.1% and 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition applied in step (i) comprises one or more silicones, preferably chosen from aminated silicones, in particular in a total content ranging from 0.3% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 4% by weight, preferentially from 0.6% to 3% by weight and more preferentially from 0.7% to 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. 8. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition applied in step (i) comprises one or more cationic surfactants, in particular in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 8% by weight, preferentially from 0.3% to 7% by weight and even better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. 9. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition applied in step (i) preferably comprises one or more cationic polymers chosen from cationic polysaccharides, especially cationic cellulose, cationic galactomannan gums, especially cationic guar gum; and also mixtures thereof, in particular in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight and even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. The composition applied in step (i) is especially made of cellulose, galactomannans and their non-ionic derivatives, especially their ethers, alone or in admixture; and even better still of (poly)hydroxy (C １ ~C ６ ) nonionic guar gum, optionally modified with alkyl groups, in particular hydroxypropyl groups, and / or substituted or unsubstituted celluloses and cellulose ethers, such as (C １ ~C ４ ) alkyl cellulose and (poly)hydroxy (C １ ~C ４ ) alkylcelluloses, etc.; preferentially, alone or in mixtures, (poly)hydroxy(C １ ~C ６ 10. The method according to claim 1, further comprising the step of: 1) administering to said patient a solution of one or more nonionic polysaccharides selected from the group consisting of nonionic guar gums, optionally modified with alkyl, and in particular hydroxypropyl, groups, preferably in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight and even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. 11. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition applied in step (i) comprises one or more non-ionic surfactants, in particular in a total content of from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight and preferentially from 0.2% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

12. The composition applied in step (i) is preferably a triglyceride oil of vegetable or synthetic origin, a liquid ester of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than said triglycerides, liquid C ６ ~C １８ 12. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more non-silicone fatty substances chosen from hydrocarbons, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof, in particular in a total amount of from 0.1% to 20% by weight, better still from 1% to 18% by weight, preferentially from 2% to 15% by weight and better still from 5% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. 13. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition applied in step (i) comprises water, in particular in a concentration ranging from 50% to 95% by weight, for example from 55% to 90% by weight, in particular from 60% to 85% by weight and better still from 65% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. The cleaning composition applied in step (ii) comprises: said anionic surfactants in a total amount ranging from 2% to 30% by weight, in particular from 4% to 25% by weight, better still from 5% to 20% by weight and even better still from 6% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and / or The method according to any one of claims 1 to 13, comprising said amphoteric surfactants in a total content ranging from 3% to 20% by weight, preferentially from 3.5% to 15% by weight and better still from 4% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 14, wherein step (i) is followed by a rinsing step before carrying out step (ii).

16. 16. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 15, for treating hair, in particular for cleaning and / or conditioning sensitive, weak and / or damaged hair or hair containing metal ions, in particular copper and / or calcium; for strengthening, in particular sensitive, weak and / or damaged hair and / or for limiting the loss of shine, in particular sensitive, weak and / or damaged hair.

17. Use, as a pre-shampoo, of a cosmetic composition comprising: at least 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of one or more compounds of amino acid type, preferably corresponding to formula (I) and / or their salts, in particular the alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or zinc salts: 【Chemistry 2】 where p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, and it is understood that: When p=1, R together with the nitrogen atom form a saturated heterocyclic ring containing 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 ring members, which ring is preferably free of hydroxyl or (C １ ~C ４ ) alkyl; When p=2, R is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from hydrogen atoms or -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)-, and / or hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH ２ ), -SH, -COOH, -CONH ２ Or -NH-C(NH)-NH ２ Saturated, linear or branched (C １ ~C １２ ) alkyl, preferably (C １ ~C ４ ) represents an alkyl group; Preferably, p=2 and R is optionally interrupted by a hydrogen atom or an -S-heteroatom and / or is hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH ２ Saturated, linear or branched (C １ ~C ４ ) an alkyl group; even better, p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom; Even better, said compound of amino acid type is chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts, in particular the alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or zinc salts, and mixtures thereof; preferentially from glycine, its salts, in particular the alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or zinc salts, and mixtures thereof; and one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, especially from 4 to 6 carbon atoms, from 1 to 3 OH groups and from 2 to 3 COOH groups, and / or their salts, especially the alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or zinc salts.

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