Cosmetic compositions comprising amino acids, hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids and polysaccharides, methods and uses - Patents.com

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, preferably a hair composition, comprising at least 0.8% by weight of a compound of amino acid type, one or more hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids and / or salts thereof containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms and at least 3 COOH groups, and one or more galactomannans. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method, in particular for washing and / or conditioning the hair with said composition.

Description

[Technical field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular a hair composition, comprising one or more compounds of amino acid type, one or more hydroxycarboxylic acids and one or more polysaccharides.The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method using said composition. [Background technology]

[0002] Consumers around the world are generally in contact with a great variety of water sources, which is not without impact on the performance qualities of the hair (especially with regard to its cosmetic properties) and / or hair products.

[0003] "Mineral" water contains varying amounts of minerals in the form of dissolved ions, such as calcite (present in the form of calcium), dolomite (present in the form of calcium and magnesium), magnetite (present in the form of iron), and chalcanthite (present in the form of copper). "Hard" water is also concentrated in minerals such as calcium and magnesium, while swimming pool water is concentrated in copper salts derived from aldicides used in swimming pool treatments.

[0004] Hair has a strong tendency to absorb these minerals and / or their metal salts due to the presence on its surface of anionic functional groups, in particular those corresponding to the sulfonic or carboxylic functional groups of keratin. Moreover, the isoelectric point of an individual hair is generally said to be between 3.2 and 4. As a result of this, in daily life, the pH of the water applied to the hair is higher than such a value, resulting in a negative charge of the fiber.

[0005] Thus, minerals, which are very often multivalent cations, are attracted by these negatively charged fibers and are trapped by the formation of chemical bonds, which prevents them from being released by conventional hair treatment methods.As a result, minerals can accumulate on hair over time.Such deposition not only depends on the hardness of water and the frequency and / or duration of exposure of hair to the water in question, but also on the nature and length of hair (particularly its porosity and charge) and its state of damage.

[0006] The accumulation of these minerals and / or their metal salts can lead to changes in the hair fibre, in particular to more or less pronounced changes in the cosmetic properties of each individual hair. Thus, calcium and magnesium accumulations can lead to dull, dry hair, while copper accumulations can cause hair to turn green.

[0007] In addition, the accumulation of metal (e.g. iron, copper) salts can accelerate the damage caused to the hair, since they catalyze oxidation / reduction reactions and generate the hydroxyl radical HO°, which can be harmful to keratin fibers even in low contents.

[0008] This can lead to photodegradation of the fibers, resulting in a lightening of the fibers and also to deleterious changes in the properties of the hair, which can result in premature breakage of individual hairs; these phenomena are very particularly observed during the subsequent use of lightening or dyeing products.

[0009] In other words, the hair becomes less resistant, weaker and may actually become more prone to breakage or even lose its luster due to the accumulation of minerals and / or their metallic salts. Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0010] There is therefore a real need to have available compositions that make it possible to combat the accumulation of metal ions due to minerals and metal salts dissolved in the water, in fact making it possible to extract them from the keratin fibres, in order to limit their adverse effects and overcome all of the drawbacks mentioned above. [Means for solving the problem]

[0011] The composition and its uses which are the subject of the present invention make it possible to achieve this aim.

[0012] Thus, one subject of the present invention is one or more compounds of amino acid type chosen from the compounds corresponding to the following formula (I) and / or their salts, present in a total content of at least 0.8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, one or more hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms and at least 3 COOH groups, and / or salts thereof, preferably present in a total content of at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, - one or more polysaccharides selected from galactomannans, including derivatives thereof; A cosmetic composition, preferably a hair composition, comprising:

[0013] It has been found that the composition according to the invention improves the resistance of the hair to breakage, strengthens the hair and also makes it possible to significantly limit the reduction or loss of gloss, an undesirable effect that tends to be caused by the presence of metal ions, in particular copper or calcium ions, in the said fibres.

[0014] After application of the composition, the fibers appear reinforced, said reinforcement improving with successive applications of the composition.

[0015] It has also been found that the compositions according to the invention make it possible to impart conditioning properties to the hair, in particular smooth feel, softness, shine and detangling, and to do so whilst imparting strength, body and volume benefits to the hair.

[0016] In particular they find very particular application in the cosmetic treatment, especially the cleaning and / or conditioning, of keratinous fibres which have been sensitised, weakened and / or damaged as a result of physical treatment (repeated brushing) and / or chemical treatment, for example dyeing, bleaching, perming and / or straightening.

[0017] The composition is particularly suitable for the cosmetic treatment, in particular for cleaning and / or conditioning, of keratin fibers enriched in metals, in particular calcium and / or copper, with a content of at least 100 ppm, better still at least 200 ppm; in particular enriched in copper, in particular with a content of at least 100 ppm, better still at least 200 ppm, and / or enriched in calcium, in particular with a content of at least 4000 ppm, better still at least 10000 ppm. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

[0018] In the text below, unless otherwise specified, the limits of numerical ranges are included in the range, particularly in the expressions "between" and "in the range from... to...".

[0019] Furthermore, as used herein, the phrase "at least one" is equivalent to and may be replaced by the phrase "one or more."

[0020] Amino acid type compounds The composition according to the invention comprises one or more compounds of the amino acid type selected from the compounds corresponding to the following formula (I) and / or salts thereof:

[0021] Thus, the amino acid type compound has the formula (I): [ka] where p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, with the understanding that: - when p=1, R together with the nitrogen atom form a saturated heterocycle containing 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 ring members, which ring is 1 ~C 4 ) alkyl; - when p=2, R is interrupted by a hydrogen atom or, optionally, by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)-, and / or, optionally, by hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH 2 ), -SH, -COOH, -CONH 2 or -NH-C(NH)-NH 2 Saturated linear or branched (C 1 ~C 12 ) alkyl, preferably (C 1 ~C 4 ) represents an alkyl group.

[0022] Preferably, when p=1, R together with the nitrogen atom forms a saturated heterocycle containing 5 ring members, which ring is unsubstituted. Preferably, p=2. Preferably, when p=2, R is a hydrogen atom or, optionally, interrupted by an -S-heteroatom and / or optionally, hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH 2 A saturated linear or branched (C 1 ~C 4 ) represents an alkyl group. Preferentially, p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom.

[0023] The amino acid type compounds may also be salts of the compounds of formula (I). These salts include salts with organic or inorganic bases, such as alkali metal salts, for example, lithium, sodium or potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts, for example, magnesium or calcium salts, and zinc salts.

[0024] The amino acid type compounds may be in the form of optical isomers in the L, D or DL ​​configuration, preferably in the L configuration. Examples of compounds in the form of an optical isomer of the L configuration according to the invention include L-proline, L-methionine, L-serine, L-arginine and L-lysine.

[0025] Preferably, the amino acid type compound according to the invention is chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts (in particular the alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or zinc salts), and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the amino acid type compound according to the invention is selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, their salts, and mixtures thereof. Even better, the amino acid type compound is chosen from glycine, its salts (in particular the alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or zinc salts), and mixtures thereof. The glycine salt according to the present invention may include sodium glycine, zinc glycine, calcium glycine, magnesium glycine, manganese glycine and potassium glycine, preferably sodium glycine and potassium glycine. Preferably, the amino acid type compound is glycine.

[0026] The total content of amino acid type compounds present in the composition according to the invention is at least 0.8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, which may range from 0.8% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.9% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.95% to 7% by weight or even from 1% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular, the total content of aminocarboxylic acid type compounds in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.8% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.9% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.95% to 7% by weight and even more preferably from 1% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Even better, the total content of compounds of amino acid type chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts and mixtures thereof in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.8% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.9% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.95% to 7% by weight and even more preferably from 1% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Most particularly, the total content of compounds of amino acid type chosen from glycine, its salts and mixtures thereof in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.8% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.9% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.95% to 7% by weight and even more preferably from 1% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. More preferably, the content of glycine in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.8% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.9% to 8% by weight, even better from 0.95% to 7% by weight and even more preferably from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0027] Hydroxypolycarboxylic acids The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms and at least 3 COOH groups, and / or salts thereof. These polycarboxylic acids are different from the amino acid type compounds described above.

[0028] Said polyacid comprises at least 3 COOH groups (in acid or chloride form), better still 3 COOH groups (in acid or chloride form). Furthermore, these contain at least one OH group, but may contain several, particularly 2 to 3 OH groups. Preferably, they contain a total of 4 to 6 carbon atoms and the hydrocarbon-based chains are saturated and linear. Advantageously, the hydroxylated polycarboxylic acid and / or salt thereof contains a total of 4 to 6 carbon atoms, 1 to 3 OH groups and 3 COOH groups (acid or salt form).

[0029] Salts of these polyacids include salts with organic or inorganic bases, such as alkali metal salts, for example lithium, sodium or potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts, for example magnesium or calcium salts, and zinc salts. Alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts are preferred, especially sodium salts.

[0030] Preferably, the hydroxylated polycarboxylic acid or salt thereof is selected from alpha-hydroxy acids and their salts, in particular citric acid and its salts, in particular the alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, such as sodium citrate.

[0031] Preferably, the total content of hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids containing a total of 2 to 8 carbon atoms and at least 3 COOH groups and / or salts thereof present in the composition according to the invention is at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, which may range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 1% to 8% by weight, better still from 1.2% to 6% by weight and even better still from 1.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0032] In particular, the total content of hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids containing a total of 4 to 6 carbon atoms, 1 to 3 OH groups and 3 COOH groups, or salts thereof, present in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 1% to 8% by weight, better still from 1.2% to 6% by weight and even better still from 1.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0033] Most particularly, the total content of hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids chosen from citric acid and its salts, in particular the alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 1% to 8% by weight, better still from 1.2% to 6% by weight and even better still from 1.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0034] polysaccharide The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more polysaccharides chosen from galactomannans, including their derivatives; these may advantageously be chosen from non-ionic galactomannans, cationic galactomannans, their derivatives, in particular their ethers or esters, and mixtures thereof.

[0035] The composition may further comprise one or more polysaccharides different from said galactomannans, for example chosen from cellulose, starch and their derivatives, in particular their ethers or esters, and mixtures thereof. These may advantageously be chosen from non-ionic cellulose, cationic cellulose, non-ionic starch, and mixtures thereof.

[0036] These polymers can be physically or chemically modified: physical treatments include temperature, chemical treatments include esterification, etherification, amidation and oxidation reactions (as long as these treatments make it possible to give polymers that are non-ionic).

[0037] Galactomannans that may be used include (poly)hydroxy (C 1 ~C 6 ) Nonionic guar gums which can be modified with alkyl groups, in particular hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups. These guar gums are well known from the prior art and can be prepared, for example, by reacting guar gum with the corresponding alkene oxide, such as propylene oxide, to obtain guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups. The degree of hydroxyalkylation preferably ranges from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functional groups present on the guar gum.

[0038] Such non-ionic guar gums, optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups, are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60, Jaguar HP120, Jaguar HP105 SGI and Jaguar HP8 SGI by the company Rhodia Chimie.

[0039] Cationic galactomannans (or cationic galactomannan gums) are described, inter alia, in US Pat. Nos. 3,589,578 and 4,031,307; cationic guar gums, especially those containing cationic trialkylammonium groups, in particular trimethylammonium, may be mentioned. Thus, guar gums modified with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salts (e.g. chloride) may be mentioned.

[0040] Preferably, between 2% and 30% of the number of hydroxyl functional groups of the guar gums bear cationic trialkylammonium groups. Even more preferentially, between 5% and 20% of the number of hydroxyl functional groups of these guar gums are branched with cationic trialkylammonium groups. Among these trialkylammonium groups, mention may be made most particularly of trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups. Even more preferentially, these groups represent between 5% and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified guar gum. According to the invention, guar gum modified with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride may be used.

[0041] Mention may be made of products having the INCI names Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride and Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, such products being sold in particular under the names Jaguar C13S, Jaguar C15, Jaguar C17 and Jaguar C162 by the company Solvay.

[0042] The plant origin of the starch molecules that may optionally be used may be a cereal or tuber. The starch is thus, for example, selected from corn starch, rice starch, cassava starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch and pea starch.

[0043] Starch may in particular be chemically or physically modified by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation, heat treatment. The starch molecules may be derived from any plant source of starch, in particular from corn, potato, oat, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley or wheat. It is also possible to use hydrolysates of the abovementioned starches. The starch is preferably derived from potato.

[0044] Nonionic celluloses that may be optionally used include C 10 ~C 30 Mention may be made of cellulosic polymers that do not contain fatty chains in their structure. The term "cellulosic" refers to any polysaccharide compound having in its structure a sequence of glucose residues linked by β-1,4 bonds; a cellulosic polymer can be a derivative of unsubstituted cellulose and / or non-ionic cellulose. Thus, the cellulosic polymers that may be used may be chosen from unsubstituted cellulose, including those in microcrystalline form, and cellulose ethers, among which cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ethers / esters stand out.

[0045] Among the nonionic cellulose ethers that may be mentioned are: 1 ~C 4 ) alkylcelluloses, such as methylcellulose and ethylcellulose (e.g., Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical); (poly)hydroxy(C 1 ~C 4 ) alkyl celluloses, such as hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose (e.g. Natrosol 250 HHR sold by Aqualon) and hydroxypropyl cellulose (e.g. Klucel EF from Aqualon); mixed (poly)hydroxy (C 1 ~C 4 )Alkyl(C 1 ~C 4 ) Alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropyl methylcellulose (eg, Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical), hydroxyethyl methylcellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose (eg, Bermocoll E 481 FQ from Akzo Nobel), and hydroxybutyl methylcellulose.

[0046] Among the optional cationic celluloses, mention may be made of cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomers.

[0047] Cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups are described, in particular, in FR 1 492 597; they are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammonium derivatives of hydroxyethylcellulose reacted with epoxides substituted with trimethylammonium groups. Mention may in particular be made of the polymers sold under the names UcarE Polymer JR (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or LR (LR 400 and LR 30M) by the company Amerchol.

[0048] Cationic cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomers are described in particular in US Pat. No. 4,131,576; in particular hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropylcelluloses, grafted with methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salts. Most particularly crosslinked or non-crosslinked quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses (the quaternizing agent can be, in particular, diallyldimethylammonium chloride); most particularly hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium hydroxyethylcelluloses. Among the commercial products that meet this definition, mention may be made of the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch. As a particularly preferred cationic cellulose, mention may be made in particular of the polymer having the INCI name Polyquaternium-10.

[0049] Among the optional cationic polysaccharides that may be used, mention may also be made of cationic derivatives of cassia gum, especially those containing quaternary ammonium groups; in particular the product having the INCI name cassia hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.

[0050] Preferably, the galactomannans that can be used in connection with the present invention are cationic galactomannan gums, in particular cationic guar gums; (poly)hydroxy (C 1 ~C 6 non-ionic guar gums, optionally modified with (poly)hydroxy(C) alkyl groups, in particular hydroxypropyl; and mixtures thereof; and better still, 1 ~C 6) non-ionic guar gum optionally modified by alkyl, in particular hydroxypropyl, groups (INCI name: Hydroxypropyl Guar).

[0051] Preferably, the composition further comprises one or more polysaccharides selected from cationic celluloses, such as polyquaternium-10; non-ionic celluloses, which may be substituted or unsubstituted, such as non-ionic cellulose ethers, for example (C1-C4) alkylcelluloses and (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4) alkylcelluloses; and mixtures thereof.

[0052] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises - one or more non-ionic guar gums, optionally modified with C1-C6 (poly)hydroxylalkyl groups, in particular hydroxypropyl; with one or more cationic polysaccharides, in particular chosen from cationic celluloses, such as polyquaternium-10, and / or cationic galactomannan gums, in particular cationic guar gums; Includes.

[0053] The composition according to the invention may comprise polysaccharides (galactomannan and, if present, optional polysaccharides) in a total amount ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight and even better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention may comprise galactomannans in a total amount ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight and even better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0054] The composition according to the invention may comprise, alone or as a mixture, a polysaccharide selected from cationic cellulose; cationic galactomannan gum, in particular cationic guar gum; non-ionic guar gum, optionally modified by C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyl alkyl groups, in particular hydroxypropyl; and / or non-ionic celluloses, which may be substituted or not, such as non-ionic cellulose ethers, for example (C1-C4) alkyl celluloses and (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4) alkyl celluloses, in a total amount ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight and even better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0055] In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise cationic polysaccharides in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0056] In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise nonionic polysaccharides in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight and even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0057] In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise cationic galactomannans in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0058] In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise non-ionic galactomannans in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0059] Nonionic Surfactants The compositions according to the invention may optionally contain one or more non-ionic surfactants.

[0060] As examples of non-ionic surfactants that may be mentioned, alone or in mixtures, the following compounds: - Oxyalkylenation (C 8 ~C 24 ) alkylphenols; - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated C, preferably containing one or two fatty chains 8 ~C 40 alcohol; - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched oxyalkylenated C 8 ~C 30 Fatty acid amides; - Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 8 ~C 30 Esters of acids and polyethylene glycols; - preferably saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 8 ~C 30 oxyethylenated esters of acids with sorbitol; - fatty acid esters of sucrose; - optionally oxyalkylenated alkyl (poly)glycosides (0 to 10 oxyalkylene units), which may contain from 1 to 15 glucose units; - saturated or unsaturated oxyethylated vegetable oils; - condensation products of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide; - N-(C 8 ~C 30 ) alkyl glucamine and N-(C 8 ~C 30 ) acylmethylglucamine derivatives; - Amine oxides.

[0061] The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units or a combination thereof, preferably oxyethylene units. The number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide preferably ranges from 1 to 250, more particularly from 2 to 100 and better still from 2 to 50; the number of moles of glycerol in particular ranges from 1 to 50 and better still from 1 to 10. Advantageously, the nonionic surfactant according to the invention does not contain any oxypropylene units. Preferably, they contain a number of moles of ethylene oxide ranging from 1 to 250, in particular from 2 to 100 and better still from 2 to 50.

[0062] Examples of glycerolated nonionic surfactants include monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C 2 , preferably containing 1 to 50 moles of glycerol, preferably 1 to 10 moles of glycerol. 8 ~C 40 Alcohol is used. Mention may be made of lauryl alcohol containing 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 lauryl ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 moles of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 oleyl ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 moles of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 oleyl ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 moles of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 moles of glycerol, oleyl / cetyl alcohol containing 6 moles of glycerol and octadecanol containing 6 moles of glycerol.

[0063] Among the glycerolized alcohols, C containing 1 mole of glycerol 8 ~C 10 Alcohol, C containing 1 mole of glycerol 10 ~C 12 C containing alcohol and 1.5 moles of glycerol 12 It is more particularly preferable to use alcohol.

[0064] Nonionic surfactants of the alkyl (poly)glycoside type are in particular those having the following general formula: RO-(RO)t-(G)v where: R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group containing 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an arylphenyl group, the linear or branched alkyl group of which contains 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms; R2 represents an alkylene group containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms; - G represents a sugar unit containing 5-6 carbon atoms; - t represents a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4; v represents a value in the range of 1 to 15, preferably 1 to 4.

[0065] Preferably, the alkyl (poly)glycoside surfactant is a compound of the formula described above, wherein R1 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms; R2 represents an alkylene group containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms; - t represents a value ranging from 0 to 3, preferably equal to 0, - G represents glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose; the degree of polymerization, ie the value of v, can range from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization is more particularly between 1 and 2.

[0066] The glucosidic bonds between the sugar units are generally of the 1-6 or 1-4 type, preferably of the 1-4 type. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant. C8 / C16 alkyl(poly)glucosides of the 1-4 type, in particular decyl glucoside and caprylyl / capryl glucoside, are most particularly preferred.

[0067] Among the commercially available products, mention may be made of the products sold under the names Plantaren® (600 CS / U, 1200 and 2000) or Plantacare® (818, 1200 and 2000) by the company Cognis; the products sold under the names Oramix CG 110 and Oramix® NS 10 by the company SEPPIC; the product sold under the name Lutensol GD 70 by the company BASF or the product sold under the name AG10 LK by the company Chem Y. Preference is given to using C8 / C16 alkyl (poly)glycosides of type 1-4, in particular as a 53% aqueous solution, such as that sold under the reference Plantacare® 818 UP by Cognis.

[0068] The nonionic surfactants used in the compositions according to the invention are, alone or in mixtures, the following: - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched oxyethylenated C, which contain from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide, and which preferably contain one or two fatty chains; 8 ~C 40 alcohol; - saturated or unsaturated oxyethylenated vegetable oils containing from 1 to 100, preferably from 2 to 50, mol of ethylene oxide; - optionally oxyalkylenated with preferably 0 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide and containing 1 to 15 glucose units, (C 8 ~C 30 ) alkyl (poly)glycosides; - monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C containing from 1 to 50 moles of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 10 moles of glycerol; 8 ~C 40 alcohol; - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched oxyalkylenated C 8 ~C 30 Fatty acid amides; - Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 8 ~C30 Esters of acids and polyethylene glycols; - Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 8 ~C 30 Esters of acids and sorbitol, preferably oxyethylated is preferentially selected from

[0069] More preferentially, the nonionic surfactants used in the composition according to the invention are, alone or in mixtures, the following: - containing from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50 and more particularly from 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide, and containing one or two fatty chains, in particular at least one C 8 ~C 20 , especially C 10 ~C 18 Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched oxyethylenated C containing alkyl chains 8 ~C 40 alcohol, - Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 8 ~C 30 an ester, preferably oxyethylenated, of an acid with sorbitol, and - optionally oxyalkylenated, preferably containing from 0 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide and from 1 to 15 glucose units, (C 8 -~C 30 ) Alkyl (poly)glucoside is selected from.

[0070] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises nonionic surfactants in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight and preferentially from 0.2% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0071] Cationic Surfactants The compositions according to the invention may optionally contain one or more cationic surfactants. These are preferably chosen from optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, or their salts, and quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0072] The composition may include, alone or in admixture, one or more cationic surfactants selected from the following compounds, which are quaternary ammonium salts: of the following general formula (II): [ka] (In the formula, X - In particular, halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C 1 ~C 4 ) alkyl sulfate, (C 1 ~C 4 ) alkyl sulfonate, or (C 1 ~C 4 ) an anion selected from the group of alkylarylsulfonates; The groups R, which may be the same or different, 1 ~R 4 represents a linear or branched aliphatic group containing 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, and the group R 1 ~R 4 At least one of the groups represents a linear or branched aliphatic group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The corresponding compound.

[0073] Aliphatic groups may contain heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens, among others. Aliphatic groups include, for example, C 1 ~C 30 Alkyl, C 1 ~C 30 Alkoxy, (C 2 ~C 6 ) Polyoxyalkylene, C 1 ~C 30 Alkylamide, (C 12 ~C 22) Alkylamide (C 2 ~C 6 ) alkyl, (C 12 ~C 22 ) alkyl acetate, and C 1 ~C 30 The radical is selected from hydroxyalkyl radicals.

[0074] Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (II), preference is given to tetraalkylammonium salts, such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group contains from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, and also palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salts or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristylacetate)ammonium salts, such as those sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by the company Van Dyk. In particular, it is preferable to use the chloride, bromide or methyl sulfate salts of these compounds.

[0075] - Formula (III): [ka] (In the formula, R 5 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, e.g., derived from tallow fatty acid; R 6 is a hydrogen atom, C 1 ~C 4 R represents an alkyl group, or an alkyl or alkenyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms; 7 is C 1 ~C 4 represents an alkyl group, R 8 is a hydrogen atom or C 1 ~C 4 represents an alkyl group, and X -is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates, where the alkyl and aryl groups preferably contain 1 to 20 carbon atoms and 6 to 30 carbon atoms, respectively. Quaternary ammonium salts of imidazolines such as those having the formula: Preferably, R 5 and R 6 represents a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing 12 to 21 carbon atoms, e.g., derived from tallow fatty acid; R 7 indicates a methyl group, and R 8 indicates a hydrogen atom. Such a product is, for example, sold under the name Rewoquat® W 75 by the company Rewo.

[0076] In particular of formula (IV): [ka] (In the formula, R 9 represents an alkyl group containing about 16 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally hydroxylated and / or optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms; R 10 is hydrogen or an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or a group (R 9a )(R 10a )(R 11a )N-(CH 2 ) 3 R, which may be the same or different, is selected from 9a , R 10a , R 11a , R 11 , R 12 , R 13 and R 14 is selected from hydrogen or an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms; X - are halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C 1 ~C 4 ) alkyl sulfate, (C1 ~C 4 ) alkylsulfonates, and (C 1 -~C 4 ) an anion selected from the group of alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate. A quaternary diammonium or triammonium salt of Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P (Quaternium 89) sold by Finetex, and Finquat CT (Quaternium 75) sold by Finetex.

[0077] - the following formula (V): [ka] (In the formula, R 15 is C 1 ~C 6 Alkyl group and C 1 ~C 6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups; R 16 is the group R-C(O)-; linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 ~C 22 The group R, which is a hydrocarbon-based group 20 ; selected from a hydrogen atom; R 18 is the group R21-C(O)-; linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 ~C 6 The group R, which is a hydrocarbon-based group 22 ; selected from a hydrogen atom; R, which may be the same or different 17 , R 19 and R 21 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 7 ~C 21 selected from a hydrocarbon-based group; r, s and t, which may be the same or different, are integers having a value of 2 to 6; y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10; x and z, which may be the same or different, are integers having a value of 0 to 10; X - is a simple or complex organic or inorganic anion; However, if the sum of x+y+z is 1 to 15 and x is 0, then R 16 is R 20 If z is 0, R 18 is R 22 (Indicating Quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester functional group, such as those having the formula:

[0078] Alkyl group R 15 may be linear or branched, more particularly linear. 15 represents a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, more particularly a methyl or ethyl group. Advantageously, the sum of x+y+z is between 1 and 10. R 16 is a hydrocarbon-based group R 20 If it is, it may be long chain and contain 12 to 22 carbon atoms or short chain and contain 1 to 3 carbon atoms. R 18 is a hydrocarbon-based group R 22 When it is, it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms. Advantageously, R, which may be identical or different, 17 , R 19 and R 21 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 11 ~C 21 The hydrocarbon-based groups are selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 11 ~C 21 It is selected from alkyl and alkenyl groups. Preferably, x and z, which may be the same or different, are equal to 0 or 1. Advantageously, y is equal to one. Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2. Anion X - is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulfate, more particularly methyl sulfate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, anions derived from organic acids, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion compatible with ammonium bearing an ester function may also be used. - is even more particularly the chloride or methyl sulfate.

[0079] In the composition according to the invention, more particularly, ammonium salts of formula (V) can be used, in which R 15 denotes a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1; z is equal to 0 or 1; r, s and t are equal to 2; R 16 is a group R19-C(=O)-, methyl, ethyl or C 14 ~C 22 is selected from a hydrocarbon-based group, and a hydrogen atom; R 18 is selected from the group R21-C(=O)- and a hydrogen atom; R, which may be the same or different 17 , R 19 and R 21 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 13 ~C 17 The hydrocarbon-based groups are preferably selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 13 ~C 17 It is selected from alkyl and alkenyl groups. Advantageously, the hydrocarbon-based group is linear.

[0080] Mention may be made, for example, of compounds of formula (V) such as diacyloxyethyl dimethylammonium, diacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl dihydroxyethyl methylammonium, triacyloxyethyl methylammonium and monoacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl dimethylammonium salts (especially the chlorides or methyl sulfates), as well as mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are more particularly derived from vegetable oils such as coconut oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.

[0081] These products include, for example, optionally oxyalkylenated triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, and 10 ~C 30 Fatty acids or C of plant or animal origin 10 ~C 30 They are obtained by direct esterification with a mixture of fatty acids or by transesterification of their methyl esters, followed by quaternization with alkylating agents such as alkyl halides (preferably methyl or ethyl halides), dialkyl sulfates (preferably methyl or ethyl sulfate), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl paratoluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.

[0082] Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by the company Henkel, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by the company CECA or Rewoquat® WE 18 by the company Rewo-Witco.

[0083] The compositions according to the invention may, for example, contain a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts, with the diester salts comprising a weight majority. It is also possible to use ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, as described in US-A-4,874,554 and US-A-4,137,180. Behenoyl hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride sold under the name Quatarmin BTC 131 by KAO may also be used. Preferably, the ammonium salt containing at least one ester functional group contains two ester functional groups.

[0084] Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that may be used, preference is given to using dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts.

[0085] The term "fatty amine" refers to a fatty amine that contains at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine functional group, optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated, or a salt thereof, and at least one C 6 ~C 30 , preferably C 8 ~C 30 It means a compound that contains a hydrocarbon-based chain. Preferably, the fatty amines for use according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0086] Fatty amines that may be mentioned include amidoamines. The amidoamines according to the invention may be chosen from fatty amidoamines, the fatty chains of which may be carried by an amine or amide group. The term "amidoamine" refers to a compound that contains at least one amide functional group and at least one primary, secondary, or tertiary amine functional group. The term "fatty amidoamine" generally refers to a fatty acid having at least one C 6 ~C 30 By amidoamines is meant those containing a hydrocarbon-based chain. Preferably, the fatty amidoamines for use according to the invention are not quaternized. Preferably, the fatty amidoamines for use according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0087] Among the fatty amidoamines for use according to the invention, those of formula (VI): RCONHR″N(R′) 2 (VI) Amidoamines of the formula: R is a substituted or unsubstituted, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably 7 to 23 carbon atoms, in particular a linear or branched C 5 ~C 29 , preferably C 7 ~C 23 Alkyl group, or linear or branched C 5 ~C 29 , preferably C 7 ~C 23 represents an alkenyl group; - R" represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, and better still 3 carbon atoms; and R', which may be the same or different, represents a substituted or unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl group.

[0088] The fatty amidoamines of formula (VI) are, for example, selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, in particular the product sold under the name Lexamine S13 by the Inolex Chemical Company, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivanamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the fatty amidoamine is selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidpropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

[0089] The cationic surfactant is preferably selected from those of formula (II), those of formula (V), those of formula (VI) and mixtures thereof; better still those of formula (II) and / or formula (VI); and better still those of formula (II). Preferentially, the cationic surfactant may be chosen from salts such as tetraalkylammonium chlorides, bromides or methosulfates, for example dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group contains from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts; dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, for example dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate; and mixtures thereof. Even more preferentially, they are chosen from cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

[0090] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise cationic surfactants in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 8% by weight and better still from 1% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0091] fatty substances The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more non-silicone fatty substances, which may be chosen from solid fatty substances, liquid fatty substances, and mixtures thereof. The term "non-silicone fatty material" means a fatty material that does not contain any Si-O bonds.

[0092] The term "solid fatty material" refers to a substance that is heated to a temperature of 1.013×10 5 It means a fatty substance having a melting point (at 2 Pa) of more than 25° C., preferably more than 28° C. and preferentially more than 30° C. Advantageously, the solid fatty substances that may be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0093] The solid fatty substances may be chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes and ceramides, and mixtures thereof.

[0094] The term "fatty acid" means a long-chain carboxylic acid containing from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The solid fatty acids according to the invention preferentially contain from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolized. The solid fatty acids that may be used in the invention are in particular selected from myristic acid, cetyl acid, stearylic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, and mixtures thereof. The said fatty acids are different from the (poly)hydroxylated carboxylic acids containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms mentioned above.

[0095] The term "fatty alcohol" refers to long-chain aliphatic alcohols containing 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and containing at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. Solid fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and contain 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and better still 12 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH, where R represents a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, containing 8 to 40, preferentially 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still 12 to 30 and even better still 12 to 24 and even better still 14 to 22 carbon atoms. The solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from saturated and linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated (mono)alcohols containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30 and even better still from 12 to 24 atoms and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0096] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used, alone or in mixtures, can be chosen from: - myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); - cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); - stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); - arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); - Behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); - lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); - seryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); - montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); - Myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol). Preferentially, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol; even better, the solid fatty alcohol is cetylstearyl alcohol.

[0097] The solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably 9 ~C 26 Fatty carboxylic acids and / or C 9 ~C 26 It is selected from esters derived from fatty alcohols. Preferably, these solid fatty esters are esters of linear or branched saturated carboxylic acids containing at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more particularly 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and linear or branched saturated monoalcohols containing at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more particularly 12 to 24 carbon atoms, the saturated carboxylic acids being optionally hydroxylated and preferably monocarboxylic acids. Esters of C4 to C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids with C1 to C22 alcohols, and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids with C2 to C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

[0098] In particular, mention may be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0099] Preferably, the solid ester of a fatty acid and / or a fatty alcohol is 9 ~C 26 Alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitate; C 9 ~C 26 Alkyl myristates, such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; C 9 ~C 26 It is selected from alkyl stearates, particularly myristyl, cetyl and stearyl stearates; and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferably, the solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols are selected from myristyl stearate, myristyl palmitate and mixtures thereof.

[0100] For the purposes of the present invention, a wax is a lipophilic compound that is solid at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure, has a reversible solid / liquid state change, has a melting point that is greater than about 40° C. and can be up to 200° C., and has an anisotropic crystalline texture in the solid state. In general, the size of the wax crystals is such that they diffract and / or scatter light, giving a more or less opaque, cloudy appearance to the composition containing them. Bringing the wax to its melting point makes it miscible with the oil, allowing it to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, while returning the temperature of the mixture to room temperature results in a recrystallization of the wax (milky white color) that is microscopically and macroscopically detectable. In particular, waxes suitable for use in the present invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable or mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof.

[0101] Mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon-based waxes, such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cera bellina), lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, spermaceti; cork fibre or sugarcane wax, olive tree wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, espartograss wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and hazerow, floral absolute waxes; montan wax, orange wax, lemon wax, microcrystalline wax, paraffin, petroleum jelly, lignite and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by the Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, and also waxy copolymers, and furthermore their esters. Further examples include C20 to C60 microcrystalline waxes such as Microwax HW. Mention may also be made of the MW 500 polyethylene wax sold under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.

[0102] Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils containing linear or branched C8 to C32 fatty chains. Among these waxes, mention may be made in particular of isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular the product manufactured or sold under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50® by the company Desert Whale, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, in particular the product sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene.

[0103] Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax Castor 16L64® and 22L73® by the company Sophim, may also be used.

[0104] Waxes which may also be used are C20-C40 alkyl(hydroxystearyloxy)stearates, the alkyl group containing from 20 to 40 carbon atoms, either alone or in mixtures. Such waxes are in particular sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P® and Kester Wax K 80 P® by the company Koster Keunen.

[0105] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; mention may be made in particular of carnauba microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 350® by Micro Powders, synthetic wax microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 114S® by Micro Powders, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as the products sold under the name Micro Care 300® and 310® by Micro Powders, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name Micro Care 325® by Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the name Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by Micro Powders, and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the name Microslip 519® and 519L® by Micro Powders.

[0106] The wax is preferably selected from mineral waxes, such as paraffin, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite wax; vegetable waxes, such as cocoa butter, shea butter or cork fibre or sugarcane wax, olive tree wax, rice bran wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, ouricury wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, espartograss wax or floral absolute waxes, such as the essential wax of blackcurrant flowers sold by Bertin (France); waxes of animal origin, such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cera bellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.

[0107] Ceramides or ceramide analogues, such as glycoceramides, which may be used in the compositions according to the invention are known; in particular, ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the Dawning classification may be mentioned.

[0108] The ceramide or analogue thereof that may be used preferably has the following formula: [ka] where: - R1 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from a C14 to C30 fatty acid, which group can be substituted in the alpha position by a hydroxyl group or in the omega position by a hydroxyl group and can be esterified with a saturated or unsaturated C16 to C30 fatty acid; - R2 represents a hydrogen atom or a (glycosyl)n, (galactosyl)m or sulfogalactosyl group, where n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8; - R3 represents a C15-C26 hydrocarbon-based group, saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, which can be substituted by one or more C1-C14 alkyl groups; In the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 can also represent a C15-C26 α-hydroxyalkyl group, it being understood that the hydroxyl group is optionally esterified with a C16-C30 α-hydroxy acid. Preferentially, ceramides are used in which R1 represents a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from a C14-C30 fatty acid; R2 represents a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 represents a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3 group. More particularly preferred ceramides are compounds in which R1 represents a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from a C16 to C22 fatty acid; R2 represents a hydrogen atom; and R3 represents a saturated or unsaturated linear C15 group. R 1 C 12 ~C 22 R represents a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from a fatty acid; 2represents a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R 3 Saturated or unsaturated C 12 ~C 22 Hydrocarbon-based groups, preferably -CH=CH-(CH 2 ) 12 -CH 3 Compounds exhibiting the group may also be used.

[0109] Particularly preferred compounds are 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxypalmitoyl]aminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3,4-triol, and in particular N-stearoylphytosphingosine. Mention may also be made of 2-N-palmitoylaminohexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl-N-methyl-D-glucamine, cetyl acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide and bis(N-hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine will be used.

[0110] Liquid fatty substances which may be used include liquid hydrocarbons, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, oils of triglyceride type of vegetable or synthetic origin, mineral oils and mixtures thereof. Liquid fatty substances are heated at atmospheric pressure (1.013×10 5 It has a melting point (at 1 Pa) of less than or equal to 25° C., preferably less than or equal to 20° C. Advantageously, the liquid fatty substance is not (poly)oxyalkylenated. It is recalled that the fatty alcohols, esters and acids more particularly contain at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group containing from 6 to 40, better still from 8 to 30, carbon atoms, optionally substituted in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If unsaturated, these compounds may contain 1 to 3 conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0111] Liquid hydrocarbons are 6 ~C 18 They may be liquid hydrocarbons, which may be linear, branched, or optionally cyclic; these are preferably 8 ~C 16 , especially C 10 ~C 14 Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane or isoparaffins such as isohexadecane or isodecane, and mixtures thereof. The liquid hydrocarbons may also be chosen from those containing more than 16 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin; mention may be made of liquid paraffin or liquid petroleum jelly, polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.

[0112] The triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin may be chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, or, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, mallow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric triglycerides, such as those sold by the company Stearinerie Dubois or under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0113] The liquid fatty alcohol may be chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols containing from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples that may be mentioned include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0114] With regard to the liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than the above-mentioned triglycerides, in particular saturated or unsaturated linear C 1 ~C 26 or branched C 3 ~C 26 aliphatic mono- or poly-acids and saturated or unsaturated linear C 1 ~C 26 or branched C 3 ~C 26 Mention may be made of esters with aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms in the ester being 6 or more, more preferably 10 or more. Preferably, for esters of monoalcohols, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

[0115] Among the monoesters, dihydroabietyl behenate;octyldodecyl behenate;isocetyl behenate;isostearyl lactate;lauryl lactate;linoleyl lactate;oleyl lactate;isostearyl octanoate;isocetyl octanoate;octyl octanoate;decyl oleate;isocetyl isostearate;isocetyl laurate;isocetyl stearate;isodecyl octanoate;isodecyl oleate;isononyl isononanoate;isostearyl palmitate;methyl acetylricinoleate;octyl isononanoate;2-ethylhexyl isononanoate isononate); octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl 2-octyldodecyl myristate, isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl or isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates, such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate and mixtures thereof may be used. Furthermore, in the context of this variant, esters of C4-C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids with C1-C22 alcohols, and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids with C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

[0116] Among others, diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate can include but are not limited to glyceryl; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and polyethylene glycol distearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0117] The composition may also contain, as fatty esters, sugar esters and diesters of C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22, fatty acids. It is recalled that the term "sugar" refers to oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds having several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and containing at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides. Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, as well as derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives such as methyl derivatives, e.g. methylglucose.

[0118] The sugar esters of fatty acids may in particular be selected from the group comprising esters or mixtures of esters of the abovementioned sugars with linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22, fatty acids. If unsaturated, these compounds may contain 1 to 3 conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds. The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0119] These esters can be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate or mixtures thereof, particularly oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate and palmito-stearate mixed esters. More particularly, mono- and diesters are used, in particular the mono- or di-oleic, -stearic, -behenic, -oleopalmitic, -linoleic, -linolenic and -oleostearic esters of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof. One example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate. Preferably, liquid esters of monoacids and monoalcohols will be used.

[0120] Preferably, the fatty substance is a triglyceride oil of vegetable or synthetic origin, a liquid ester of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, liquid C 6 ~C 18 It is selected from hydrocarbons, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0121] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise fatty substances in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, better still from 1% to 18% by weight, preferentially from 2% to 15% by weight and better still from 5% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0122] Additional Compounds The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises water, in particular at a concentration ranging from 50% to 95% by weight, for example from 55% to 90% by weight, in particular from 60% to 85% by weight and better still from 65% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The pH of the composition may be between 2.5 and 8, preferentially between 3 and 7, or even between 4 and 6.

[0123] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more organic solvents which are liquid at 25° C. and 1 atmosphere and preferably hydrophilic (water-soluble or water-miscible), such as 1 ~C 6 Aliphatic or aromatic monoalcohols, C 2 ~C 8 Polyol and C 3 ~C 7 Advantageously, the organic solvent may be selected from the group consisting of polyol ethers, 2 ~C 4 It is chosen from mono-, di- or tri-diols, and may advantageously be chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, 1,2-propanediol (propylene glycol) and mixtures thereof.

[0124] The composition according to the invention may also contain at least one or more standard cosmetic ingredients selected from, in particular, thickeners, gelling agents (both different from the polysaccharides mentioned above); sunscreens; antidandruff agents; antioxidants; chelating agents; reducing agents; oxidizing bases, couplers, oxidizing agents, direct dyes; hair straighteners; pearlescent and opacifying agents; mica, nacre, glitter flakes; plasticizers or coalescers; pigments; fillers; fragrances; basifying or acidifying agents; silanes. Those skilled in the art will carefully select the ingredients and their amounts contained in the composition so as not to impair the properties of the composition according to the invention.

[0125] The composition according to the invention furthermore advantageously has formula (A1) or (A2) below: [ka] (In the formula, n is an integer from 1 to 100, preferably from 1 to 50, more preferentially from 1 to 20, better still from 1 to 10, still better still from 1 to 5 and still better still from 1 to 3, - R 1 is a polypeptide chain derived from amino acids such as cysteine. The silicone polymer may include one or more silicone polymers derived from an amino acid having the formula:

[0126] Preferably, the amino acid derived silicone polymer corresponds to formula (A1) where R1 is a hydrolyzed vegetable protein residue. Mention may in particular be made of the compounds having the following INCI names: Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein PG-Propyl Silanetriol, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein PG-Propyl Silanetriol or Cystine Bis-PG-Propyl Silanetriol, sold under the names Crodasone® W, Crodasone® WPF, Keravis® PE or Crodasone® Cystine by Croda.

[0127] Preferably, the silicone polymer derived from an amino acid may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content that may range from 0.1% to 2% by weight, and in particular from 0.2% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Even better, the silicone polymer derived from an amino acid of formula (A1), in which R1 is a hydrolyzed plant protein residue, can be present in the composition according to the invention in a content that can range from 0.1% to 2% by weight, in particular from 0.2% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0128] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition, preferably the hair composition, may comprise: - one or more amino acid type compounds corresponding to formula (I) above, where p=2 and R is interrupted by a hydrogen atom or, optionally, by an -S-heteroatom and / or, optionally, by hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH 2 A saturated linear or branched (C 1 ~C 4 ) an alkyl group; even better, R represents a hydrogen atom; compounds present in a total content of preferably at least 0.8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.8% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.9% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.95% to 7% by weight or even better still from 1% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; one or more hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids containing 4 to 6 carbon atoms, 1 to 3 OH groups and 3 COOH groups, and / or salts thereof, preferably present in a total content of at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 1% to 8% by weight, better still from 1.2% to 6% by weight and even better still from 1.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; in particular, alone or in admixture, cationic cellulose; cationic galactomannan gums, in particular cationic guar gum; optionally (poly)hydroxy (C 1 ~C 6 ) non-ionic guar gum modified by alkyl, in particular hydroxypropyl, groups; and / or non-ionic celluloses, which may be substituted or not, such as non-ionic cellulose ethers, e.g. (C 1 ~C 4 ) Alkyl cellulose and (poly)hydroxy (C 1 ~C 4 ) one or more polysaccharides selected from alkylcelluloses; and the composition comprises: Preferably, the one or more galactomannans are present in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; one or more nonionic surfactants, optionally present in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight and preferentially from 0.2% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention; - optionally, one or more cationic surfactants, preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 8% by weight and better still from 1% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0129] The cosmetic composition according to the invention finds particularly advantageous application in the hair care field, in particular for cleaning and / or conditioning the hair. The hair care composition is preferably a lotion, a mask or a conditioner, but may also be in the form of a rinse-off shampoo, in particular a conditioner.

[0130] The cosmetic composition may or may not be rinsed off after application to keratin materials, particularly hair. Rinsing may therefore be optionally carried out, for example with water, after any standing time. Preferably, it is rinsed off after any standing time.

[0131] The subject of the present invention is also a cosmetic treatment method, in particular a hair treatment method, in particular for washing and / or conditioning keratin fibres, and especially hair, which comprises applying a cosmetic composition according to the invention to said fibres, preferably followed by rinsing after a possible standing time.

[0132] The subject of the present invention is preferably a method for treating hair, in particular for cleaning and / or conditioning sensitized, weakened and / or damaged hair or hair rich in metal ions, in particular copper and / or calcium. The method may also include at least two successive steps of applying the above-mentioned composition to the hair, in particular to sensitized, weakened and / or damaged hair; and this is called a multi-application process.

[0133] The subject of the invention is also the use of a cosmetic composition according to the invention for strengthening, in particular sensitized, weakened and / or damaged hair and / or for limiting the loss of luster in, in particular sensitized, weakened and / or damaged hair.

[0134] The subject of the invention is also a method for the cosmetic treatment of hair, in particular sensitized, weakened and / or damaged hair, comprising: - a step (i) of washing the hair, comprising applying a cleaning cosmetic composition A comprising one or more anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, followed by - step (ii) of applying to the hair a cosmetic composition B as defined according to the invention, followed by - a step (iii) of conditioning the hair, comprising applying a cosmetic care composition C comprising one or more conditioning agents chosen from cationic surfactants, cationic polymers, silicones, fatty substances and mixtures thereof; The method also includes the steps of:

[0135] After the step (i) of washing the hair, a standing time of, for example, 1 to 15 minutes, particularly 2 to 5 minutes, may or may not be allowed to pass. This step may or may not be followed by a rinsing step, for example with water, before step (ii) is carried out. Preferably, said step (i) is followed by a rinsing step after a possible standing time of 1 to 15 minutes. The method according to the invention therefore preferably comprises an intermediate rinsing step between steps (i) and (ii).

[0136] Step (ii) of applying the cosmetic composition according to the present invention to the hair may or may not be followed by a standing time of, for example, 1 to 15 minutes, in particular 2 to 5 minutes. This step may or may not be followed by a rinsing step, for example with water, before step (iii) is carried out. Preferably, after said step (ii) no rinsing step is carried out before step (iii) is carried out.

[0137] The hair conditioning step (iii) may or may not be followed by a standing time of, for example, 1 to 15 minutes, particularly 2 to 5 minutes. This step may or may not be followed by a rinsing step, for example with water. Preferably, said step (iii) is followed by a rinsing step after a possible standing time of 1 to 15 minutes; and, optionally, a drying step.

[0138] Steps (i), (ii) and (iii) are carried out consecutively or sequentially, meaning that step (i) precedes step (ii), which itself precedes step (iii); between each of these steps there may be intermediate steps, such as standing and / or rinsing and / or drying steps. Preferably, steps (i) and (ii) are separated by a maximum of 1 hour, better still by 1 to 50 minutes, or even better still by 5 to 45 minutes. Preferably, steps (ii) and (iii) are spaced apart by a maximum of 1 hour, better still by 1 to 50 minutes, or even better still by 5 to 45 minutes.

[0139] A subject of the present invention is also a method for the cosmetic treatment of hair, in particular sensitized, weakened and / or damaged hair, comprising at least two successive steps of applying a cosmetic composition defined according to the invention.

[0140] In other words, the composition is applied to the hair several times in succession, ie the steps of applying a composition according to the invention are carried out one after the other with or without an intermediate rinsing step. Preferentially, the method according to the invention comprises a step of rinsing the hair at least between two successive steps of applying the composition.

[0141] The time for which the composition according to the invention is left on the hair can vary from a few seconds (for example 10 seconds) to a few minutes (for example 5 to 60 minutes), preferably from 1 to 30 minutes and better still from 2 to 15 minutes.

[0142] Application to the hair can be carried out, for example, by means of a comb, a fine brush, a coarse brush or with the fingers.

[0143] Between each successive step of applying the composition, the hair can be rinsed and / or dried.

[0144] Rinsing can be done with water or shampoo after a possible standing time. The hair can then be squeezed dry and, optionally, washed with a standard shampoo and then dried.

[0145] The rinsing step may also be followed by a drying step, for example at room temperature (25°C) or at a temperature higher than 40°C. Preferably, the hair is dried by airflow in addition to the supply of heat. During drying, mechanical action may be applied to the hair strand, such as combing, brushing or running fingers through it. The drying step of the method of the present invention may be carried out using a hood, a hair dryer or a straightening iron. When the drying step is carried out with a hood or a hair dryer, the drying temperature is between 40°C and 110°C, preferably between 50°C and 90°C. When the drying step is carried out with a straightening iron, the drying temperature is between 110°C and 220°C, preferably between 130°C and 200°C.

[0146] The hair treatment method according to the invention may comprise three or more successive steps of applying the composition to the hair, such as at least three successive steps, or even at least four successive steps, and these successive applications may be carried out over a period of weeks or even months.

[0147] The time between each application step can advantageously be from 1 to several days, for example from 1 to 7 days (corresponding to application of the composition once a week), or from 2 to 4 days (corresponding to application of the composition twice a week).

[0148] The following examples serve to illustrate the present invention and are not limiting in nature. In the following examples, unless otherwise stated, all amounts are given as mass percentage of active material relative to the total mass of the composition (g%AM). EXAMPLES

[0149] Example 1 The following compositions according to the invention were prepared from the ingredients (g % AM) shown in the table below:

[0150] [Table 1]

[0151] Composition A is in the form of a lotion and can be advantageously used without rinsing, before or after shampooing, and without rinsing before using a mask or a hair conditioner. This composition can be used to provide care and strength (a body and mass effect, slightly less soft than conventional care treatments) and to detangle the hair. This composition also makes it possible to strengthen the hair.

[0152] Composition B is in the form of a cream and can be advantageously used after or before shampooing in rinse-off mode.This composition can be used to provide care and strength (body and mass effect, slightly less soft than conventional care treatments) and to detangle hair.This composition can also be used to strengthen hair.

[0153] Example 2 The following composition C according to the invention and comparative composition C' were prepared from the components (g % AM) shown in the table below:

[0154] [Table 2]

[0155] Composition C is in the form of a cream and can be advantageously used after or before shampooing in rinse-off mode. This composition can be used to provide care and strength (provide body and mass effect) and to detangle hair. This composition also has hair strengthening properties.

[0156] The strength is measured using DSC techniques.

[0157] (i) Preparation of hair bundle The measurements are carried out on hair tresses that have previously been manually bleached and then treated five times according to the following protocol: the tresses are washed with a mild shampoo, then rinsed, 2 g of the composition to be tested are applied to each 5.7 g hair tress, the treatment is left for 5 minutes and then rinsed again.

[0158] (ii) Measurement method The Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) technique is known to those skilled in the art as a method for quantifying the protein enrichment in the cortex of keratin fibers (Kinetics of the changes imparted to the main structural components of human hair by thermal treatment, https: / / doi.org / 10.1016 / j.tca.2018.01.014 & F.-J.Wortmann and H.Deutz, J.Appl.Polym Sci.,48,137 (1993). The principle of this test is to measure the denaturation temperature of the protein. It is widely accepted that the higher the denaturation temperature of the protein, the better the protein integrity of the cortex, which is reflected in a reduction in fiber breakage. The denaturation temperature is directly related to the bond density of the keratin proteins present in the cortex. Thus, the lower the denaturation temperature, the lower the bond density between the proteins: the more disulfide bridges are broken and the more damaged the cortex. A difference of 2°C is recognized by those skilled in the art as a significant variation.

[0159] The machine used to measure is a TA Instruments DSC Q20 reference instrument. This machine measures the energy flow during heating of the sample. The temperature of maximum energy flow represents the denaturation temperature.

[0160] (iii) Results The results of the denaturation temperature (Td) measurements for each of the hair tresses treated according to the aforementioned protocol are summarized in the table below and represent the average of three measurements performed per tress.

[0161] [Table 3]

[0162] These results show that the use of the composition according to the invention increases the bond density of the keratin proteins present in the cortex of the treated hair, thus allowing the repair of damaged hair. Furthermore, the denaturation temperature of hair tresses treated according to the present invention is superior to that measured for natural undamaged hair, thus indicating that the hair has been repaired.

[0163] Example 3 The following compositions (A1 according to the invention and A2 comparative) were prepared from the ingredients (g % AM) shown in the table below:

[0164] [Table 4]

[0165] Composition A1 or A2 is applied to a hair tress (moderately sensitized hair, type SA20) having a mass of 5.4 g, previously washed with classic shampoo (DOP), in a ratio of 2.5 g of composition per 5.4 g of hair tress; the hair tress is massaged 5 times. The tresses are rinsed with water (passed through fingers 21 times), wrung out (passed through fingers 5 times), dried with a hair dryer, and then detangled for evaluation.

[0166] Smoothness performance was blind assessed by five experts on dry, detangled hair on a scale ranging from 0 (very poor) to 5 (very good) in increments of 0.5. The assessment is by touch: the expert grasps the strand between the thumb and index finger and runs the finger along the strand from the top to the tip; assesses whether the hair has rough edges and whether it catches on the finger.

[0167] The results are as follows:

[0168] [Table 5]

[0169] Composition A1 was judged by all experts to be superior to composition A2 in terms of smoothness criterion.

[0170] The average scores obtained show an improvement in smoothness on the tactile criteria when composition A1 (according to the invention) is applied compared to composition A2 (comparison).These results are significant with respect to the standard deviation.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition, preferably a hair composition, comprising - compounds of formula (I), present in a total content of at least 0.8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition: 【Chemistry 1】 where p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, and it is understood that: - when p=1, R together with the nitrogen atom forms a saturated heterocycle containing from 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 ring members, said ring containing hydroxyl or (C １ ~C ４ ) alkyl; - when p=2, R is interrupted by a hydrogen atom or, optionally, by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)-, and / or, optionally, by hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH ２ ), -SH, -COOH, -CONH ２ Or -NH-C(NH)-NH ２ Saturated linear or branched (C １ ~C １２ ) alkyl, preferably (C １ ~C ４ ) represents an alkyl group and / or salts thereof, in particular alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts or zinc salts, one or more hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms and at least 3 COOH groups, and / or salts thereof, preferably present in a total content of at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; preferably containing from 4 to 6 carbon atoms, from 1 to 3 OH groups and 3 COOH groups, and / or salts thereof, in particular the alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or zinc salts, an oily phase in an amount of at least 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, one or more polysaccharides selected from galactomannans, including derivatives thereof; preferably selected from nonionic galactomannans, cationic galactomannans, derivatives thereof, in particular ethers or esters thereof, and mixtures thereof; A composition comprising:

2. p=2 and R is a hydrogen atom or, optionally, interrupted by an -S-heteroatom and / or optionally, hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH ２ A saturated linear or branched alkyl group substituted with one or two groups selected from １ ~C ４ 2. The composition according to claim 1, comprising one or more compounds of amino acid type selected from the compounds corresponding to formula (I) and / or their salts, in which p=2 and R represents an alkyl group; and better still, p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom.

3. 3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the compound of amino acid type is selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts, in particular the alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or zinc salts, and mixtures thereof; preferentially selected from glycine, its salts, in particular the alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or zinc salts, and mixtures thereof.

4. 4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the total content of amino acid type compounds ranges from 0.8% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.9% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.95% to 7% by weight and even better still from 1% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. 5. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, comprising one or more hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids selected from citric acid and its salts, in particular the alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts; for example sodium citrate.

6. 6. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the total content of said hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids containing a total of 2 to 8 carbon atoms and at least 3 COOH groups, and / or salts thereof, is at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, better still in the range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 1% to 8% by weight, better still from 1.2% to 6% by weight and even better still from 1.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. The galactomannan is selected from non-ionic galactomannans, cationic galactomannans and mixtures thereof; preferably, alone or in mixtures, cationic galactomannan gum, in particular cationic guar gum; and / or (poly)hydroxy(C １ ~C ６ 7. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the guar gum is selected from non-ionic guar gums, optionally modified by alkyl groups, in particular hydroxypropyl groups.

8. one or more non-ionic guar gums, optionally modified with C1-C6 (poly)hydroxylalkyl groups, in particular hydroxypropyl, and / or one or more cationic polysaccharides, in particular chosen from cationic celluloses, such as polyquaternium-10, and / or cationic galactomannan gums, in particular cationic guar gums; The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, comprising:

9. 9. The composition according to claim 1, comprising said polysaccharide in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight and even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more nonionic surfactants, in particular in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight and preferentially from 0.2% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

11. 11. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more cationic surfactants, in particular in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 8% by weight and better still from 1% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Preferably, triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, liquid C ６ ~C １８ 12. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more non-silicone fatty substances chosen from hydrocarbons, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof, in particular in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, better still from 1% to 18% by weight, preferentially from 2% to 15% by weight and better still from 5% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. 13. The composition according to claim 1, comprising water in a concentration ranging from 50% to 95% by weight, for example from 55% to 90% by weight, in particular from 60% to 85% by weight and better still from 65% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. A cosmetic treatment method, in particular a hair treatment method, in particular for cleaning and / or conditioning keratin fibres, especially hair, in particular sensitised, weakened and / or damaged hair or hair rich in metal ions, in particular copper and / or calcium, which comprises applying a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 to said fibres, preferably followed by rinsing after a possible standing time.

15. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 for strengthening hair, in particular sensitised, weakened and / or damaged hair, and / or limiting its loss of luster.

16. 1. A method for the cosmetic treatment of hair, in particular sensitized, weakened and / or damaged hair, comprising: - a step (i) of washing said hair, comprising applying a cleaning cosmetic composition A comprising one or more anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, followed by - step (ii) of applying to the hair a cosmetic composition B according to any one of claims 1 to 13, followed by - a step (iii) of conditioning the hair, comprising applying a cosmetic care composition C comprising one or more conditioning agents chosen from cationic surfactants, cationic polymers, silicones, fatty substances and mixtures thereof; The method includes:

17. A method for the cosmetic treatment of hair, in particular sensitized, weakened and / or damaged hair, comprising at least two successive steps of applying a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13.

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