Cosmetic composition for semi - permanent deformation of keratin fibers

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, method and use for the semi-permanent shaping of keratin fibers. The present invention provides excellent semi-permanent shaping performance, from eliminating frizz to straightening curls and waves, without impairing the shine of the hair, the handleability of the hair and the conditioning of the hair; without giving unpleasant stinging and itching irritation; and without damaging the hair. The present invention also produces minimal steam when the hair is flat-ironed.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, method and use for semi-permanent shaping of hair. The cosmetic composition comprises at least one alpha-keto acid, optionally in the form of its salt or its hydrate; at least one quaternary ammonium salt of an ethoxylated methylglucose ether containing on average 5 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; diutan gum; at least one aliphatic alcohol; and at least one nonionic surfactant.

Background Art

[0002] Methods for semi-permanent shaping of hair comprising alpha-keto acids, as an alternative to conventional methods for permanent shaping of hair, are known. See, for example, PCT application WO2014 / 072491A1 published on May 15, 2014, European application EP3973944A1 and EP3973945A1 published on March 30, 2022.

[0003] Typically, complex formulations and chemical processes are used in order to achieve sufficient benefits with respect to straightening and hair smoothing. Even if sufficient straightening and hair smoothing can be achieved using known compositions, these compositions can impair the shine and handleability of the hair. These compositions can also impart stinging and itching sensations after performing flat ironing. These compositions can also leave undesirable residues on the hair. These compositions can also have a significant damage profile. To compensate for these disadvantages and thereby meet consumer demand, additional compounds are usually incorporated into the composition, which further complicates the composition. Various aspects, including the incorporation of a substantial amount of alpha-keto acid, the acidic pH of the composition, the incorporation of additional compounds, etc., impair the sustainability of the composition and they also generate a substantial amount of vapor during flat ironing, also changing the experience of the cosmetician and / or consumer, with additional disadvantages.

[0004] Accordingly, there is a need to provide a cosmetic composition suitable for semi-permanent deformation of keratin fibers, especially human hair. There is also a need to provide a composition that can be used in the so-called "Brazilian hair straightening method". There is also a need to provide a composition having a wide range of activities, from removing frizzy hair to straightening curls and waves. There is also a need to provide a composition that imparts excellent luster to hair while being suitable for semi-permanent deformation of hair. There is also a need to provide a composition that imparts excellent handleability to hair while being suitable for semi-permanent deformation of hair. There is also a need to provide a composition that imparts excellent conditioning to hair while being suitable for semi-permanent deformation of hair. There is also a need to provide a composition that reduces or even prevents any stinging and itching irritation while being suitable for semi-permanent deformation of hair. There is also a need to provide a composition that has a very low damage profile or even no damage profile while being suitable for semi-permanent deformation of hair. There is also a need to provide a composition that has sufficient sustainability, especially by being an eco-friendly formulation, while being suitable for semi-permanent deformation of hair.

[0005] Therefore, there is a need to provide a composition suitable for semi-permanent deformation of hair that generates a minimal amount of vapor during application of the hair composition while imparting to the hair the benefits of conventionally used hair compositions for semi-permanent deformation, such as hair luster, hair handleability, hair conditioning, and damage profile.

[0006] Accordingly, an object of the present invention is to provide a composition suitable for semi-permanent deformation of hair that generates a minimal amount of vapor during application of the hair composition while imparting to the hair the benefits of conventionally used hair compositions for semi-permanent deformation, such as hair luster, hair handleability, hair conditioning, and damage profile. SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

[0007] Surprisingly, a combination of a quaternary ammonium salt of an ethoxylated methylglucose ether containing on average 5 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and diutan gum, in particular a combination of lauryl methylgluceth-10 hydroxypropyldimonium chloride and diutan gum in a gel network system obtained from a mixture of aliphatic alcohols and nonionic surfactants, makes it possible to maintain the straightening performance brought about by alpha-keto acids, without in particular impairing the benefits expected from the point of view of hair gloss, hair handleability, hair conditioning and damage profile, and it has been found that less steam is generated when used in flat ironing. Without wishing to be bound by any theory, the inventors believe that the sufficient performance of the composition may be due to the physical and / or chemical interactions of both compounds. On the one hand, when applied to the hair, both compounds can form hydrogen bonds with each other (physical interaction). On the other hand, when further heat is applied, in particular using a heating device, both compounds can further form covalent bonds with each other (chemical interaction).

[0008] For this reason, in a first aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for the semi-permanent shaping of keratin fibers, preferably human hair, comprising: (a) at least one alpha-keto acid, optionally in the form of its salt or its hydrate; (b) at least one quaternary ammonium salt of an ethoxylated methylglucose ether containing on average 5 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; (c) diutan gum; (d) at least one aliphatic alcohol; and (e) at least one nonionic surfactant different from component (d) and relates to a cosmetic composition comprising the same.

[0009] In a preferred embodiment, at least one alpha-keto acid is selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, pyruvic acid, and 2-ketobutyric acid; preferably the alpha-keto acid is glyoxylic acid.

[0010] In a preferred embodiment, the quaternary ammonium salt of at least one ethoxylated methyl glucose ether containing an average of 5 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide is lauryl methyl gluceth-10 hydroxypropyldimonium chloride.

[0011] In a preferred embodiment, at least one aliphatic alcohol is from the group consisting of linear or branched C14-C30 aliphatic alcohols; more preferably linear C 14 -C 30 aliphatic alcohols; even more preferably selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol.

[0012] In a preferred embodiment, at least one nonionic surfactant is from the group consisting of polyoxyethylene C8-C 30 alkyl ethers; preferably polyoxyethylene C8-C 30 alkyl ethers having at least two ethylene oxide units, or at least five ethylene oxide units; more preferably polyoxyethylene C8-C 30 alkyl ethers having 10 to 50 ethylene oxide units; more preferably polyoxyethylene C8-C 30 alkyl ethers having 15 to 30 ethylene oxide units; even more preferably selected from the group consisting of cetareth-25 and steareth-20.

[0013] In a preferred embodiment, at least one alpha-keto acid is present in an amount in the range of 3.0 to 25.0% by weight, preferably in the range of 5.0 to 22.0% by weight, more preferably in the range of 10.0 to 19.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition; at least one quaternary ammonium salt of an ethoxylated methyl glucose ether is present in an amount in the range of 0.1 to 10.0% by weight, more preferably in the range of 0.1 to 5% by weight, even more preferably in the range of 0.5 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition; diutangum is present in an amount in the range of 0.01 to 1.0% by weight, preferably in the range of 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, more preferably in the range of 0.01 to 0.3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition; at least one aliphatic alcohol is present in an amount in the range of 2.5 to 20.0% by weight, preferably in the range of 3 to 15% by weight, more preferably in the range of 4 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition; and / or at least one nonionic surfactant is present in an amount in the range of 0.2 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably in the range of 0.5 to 4% by weight, even more preferably in the range of 1.0 to 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0014] In a preferred embodiment, the composition has a pH in the range of 4.0 or less, preferably in the range of 1 to 3.5, more preferably in the range of 1.5 to 3.0.

[0015] In a preferred embodiment, the composition has a viscosity in the range of 100 to 2,000 mPa·s, preferably in the range of 200 to 1,500 mPa·s, more preferably in the range of 500 to 1,000 mPa·s, as determined according to the described method.

[0016] In a preferred embodiment, the composition contains component (d) relative to component (e) in a weight ratio in the range of 10.0:0.5 to 10:4.0, more preferably in the range of 10.0:1.0 to 10.0:3.5; even more preferably in the range of 10.0:1.5 to 10.0:3.0.

[0017] In a preferred embodiment, component (d) and component (e) are partially or entirely included in the composition in a gel network system.

[0018] In a preferred embodiment, the composition is a leave-on composition or a rinse-off composition; preferably a rinse-off composition.

[0019] In a second aspect, the present invention relates to a method for semi-permanent deformation of hair, comprising at least the following steps: (A) providing a cosmetic composition as defined above; (B) applying the cosmetic composition to the hair; and (C) applying heat to the hair using a heating device and relates to a method.

[0020] In a preferred embodiment, in step (C), the hair is heated to a temperature in the range of 150 to 250 °C, preferably in the range of 170 to 230 °C, more preferably in the range of 185 to 220 °C.

[0021] In a preferred embodiment, in step (C), the heating device is a hair iron; preferably the hair iron is selected from the group consisting of a straightening flat iron or a curling iron.

[0022] In a third aspect, the present invention relates to the use of a cosmetic composition for semi-permanent deformation of hair as defined above.

Brief Description of the Drawings

[0023]

Figure 1a-1b

Figure 2a-2b

Best Mode for Carrying Out the Invention

[0024] Before describing the composition of the present invention and the preparation of the present invention, since such compositions and preparations can naturally vary, it is understood that this invention is not limited to the specific compositions and preparations described. Also, since the scope of the present invention is limited only by the appended claims, it is also understood that the terms used in this specification are not intended to be limiting.

[0025] Hereinafter in this specification, when one group is defined as including at least a certain number of embodiments, this also means that it preferably includes a group consisting of only these embodiments. Further, terms such as "first", "second", "third" or "a", "b", "c", etc. in the description and in the claims are used to distinguish similar elements and are not necessarily for describing in sequential or temporal order. In appropriate circumstances, these terms used in this way are interchangeable, and it is understood that the embodiments of the present invention described in this specification can be operated in an order other than that described or exemplified herein. When the terms "first", "second", "third" or "(A)", "(B)", and "(C)" or "(a)", "(b)", "(c)", "(d)", "i", "ii", and other terms relate to steps of a method or use or assay, in this application, unless otherwise indicated above or below in this specification, there is no consistency in time or time intervals between the steps, that is, the steps can be performed simultaneously, or there can be time intervals of seconds, minutes, hours, days, weeks, months, and even years between such steps.

[0026] Furthermore, the ranges defined throughout the specification include the end values, that is, the range of 1 to 10 means that both 1 and 10 are included in the range. To avoid doubt, the applicant has rights to all equivalents in accordance with applicable laws.

[0027] In the following sections, different aspects of the present invention are defined in more detail. Each aspect so defined can be combined with any other aspect(s), unless explicitly indicated to the contrary. In particular, any feature(s) indicated as being preferred or advantageous can be combined with any other feature(s) indicated as being preferred or advantageous.

[0028] Throughout this specification, references to "one embodiment" or "an embodiment" mean that a particular feature, structure, or characteristic described in connection with the embodiment is included in at least one embodiment of the present invention. Thus, the appearances of the phrases "in one embodiment" or "in an embodiment" in various places throughout this specification are not necessarily all referring to the same embodiment, but may refer to the same embodiment. Further, as used hereinafter, the terms "preferably", "more preferably", "even more preferably", "most preferably", and "especially" or similar terms are used with optional features without limiting the possibility of alternatives. Thus, the features introduced by these terms are optional features and are not intended to limit the scope of the claims in any way.

[0029] Furthermore, specific features, structures, or characteristics can be combined in any suitable manner in one or more embodiments, as will be apparent to those skilled in the art from this disclosure. Further, as will be understood by those skilled in the art, some embodiments described herein include some features but not other features included in other embodiments, while combinations of features of different embodiments are within the scope of the present invention and mean forming different embodiments. For example, in the appended claims, any claimed embodiment can be used in any combination.

[0030] Furthermore, it should be noted that terms such as "at least 1", "one or more" or similar expressions indicating that a feature or element may be present one or more times are typically used only once when introducing each respective feature or element. Hereinafter, in most cases, when referring to each feature or element, the expressions "at least 1" or "one or more" are not repeated, despite the fact that each respective feature or element may be present one or more times.

[0031] As used herein, the term "hair" can be "living", i.e., on a living body, or "non-living", i.e., a wig, hairpiece or other aggregate of non-living keratin fibers. Mammalian, preferably human hair is preferred. However, wool, fur and other keratin fibers (keratin-containing fibers) are suitable substrates for the compositions of the present invention.

[0032] The "cosmetic composition for semi-permanent deformation of keratin fibers" means a hair composition that is not permanent but is suitable for changing the wave and curl of hair. Unless otherwise specified, such compositions will hereinafter be referred to in this specification as "compositions" or "the compositions of the present invention". The compositions of the present invention can be used to straighten, relax and / or smooth keratin fibers, preferably human hair. In contrast, the compositions of the present invention are not suitable for use as permanent shaping compositions for keratin fibers, preferably human hair, i.e., cosmetic compositions for permanent deformation (i.e., waving).

[0033] "Substantially free of" means a composition containing 0.1% by weight or less, preferably 0.01% by weight or less, more preferably 0% by weight of a compound, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0034] All percentages are by weight of the prepared composition, which is the composition of the present invention, i.e., the composition applied to the hair, unless otherwise specified. Ratios are also by weight, unless specifically specified otherwise.

[0035] Cosmetic composition In a first aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for the semi-permanent shaping of keratin fibers, preferably human hair, comprising: (a) at least one alpha-keto acid, optionally in the form of its salt or its hydrate; (b) at least one quaternary ammonium salt of an ethoxylated methylglucose ether containing on average from 5 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; (c) diutan gum; (d) at least one aliphatic alcohol; and (e) at least one nonionic surfactant relates to a cosmetic composition comprising

[0036] Alpha-keto acid The composition comprises at least one alpha-keto acid (component (a)), optionally in the form of its salt or its hydrate

[0037] In a preferred embodiment, at least one alpha-keto acid has the following formula (I) R-CO-COOH (I) [wherein R represents hydrogen or a linear or branched, unsubstituted C1-C6 alkyl] having

[0038] In a preferred embodiment, at least one alpha-keto acid in the composition is present in free form, its hydrate form, its salt form; more preferably in free form or its hydrate form

[0039] In a preferred embodiment, the salt of at least one alpha-keto acid is selected from the group consisting of alkali metal salts and alkaline earth metal salts; preferably the salt of at least one alpha-keto acid is a sodium salt

[0040] In a preferred embodiment, at least one alpha-keto acid is selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, pyruvic acid, and 2-ketobutyric acid, optionally in the form of their hydrates or their salts; preferably at least one alpha-keto acid is glyoxylic acid, optionally in the form of its hydrate.

[0041] In a preferred embodiment, component (a) is present in an amount in the range of 3.0 to 25.0% by weight, more preferably in the range of 5.0% to 22.0% by weight, even more preferably in the range of 10.0 to 19.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0042] Quaternary ammonium salt of ethoxylated methylglucose ether The composition comprises at least one quaternary ammonium salt of an ethoxylated methylglucose ether containing on average 5 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide (component (b)).

[0043] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one quaternary ammonium salt of an ethoxylated methylglucose ether containing on average 5 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide is lauryl methyl gluceth-10 hydroxypropyldimonium chloride.

[0044] Lauryl methyl gluceth-10 hydroxypropyldimonium chloride is commercially available from Lubrizol under the trade name Glucquat(™) 125 wetting agent.

[0045] In a preferred embodiment, component (b) is present in an amount in the range of 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably in the range of 0.1 to 5% by weight, even more preferably in the range of 0.5 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0046] Diutan gum The composition contains gellan gum (component (c)). Gellan gum is an anionic polysaccharide. Gellan gum is a thickening agent and / or a rheology modifier, and is added in an amount sufficient to impart viscosity to the composition so that the composition can be easily applied to the hair without dripping excessively from the hair and causing confusion.

[0047] In a preferred embodiment, gellan gum has a weight average molecular weight in the range of 2.8 million daltons to 5.2 million daltons.

[0048] Gellan gum is commercially available from CP Kelco France or Lubrizol under the trade name Kelco-Care™ gellan gum. Gellan gum is a water-soluble polysaccharide and can be produced, in particular, by bacterial fermentation from the genus Sphingomonas. Thus, gellan gum is a fermentation extract of the genus Sphingomonas. Gellan gum is composed of six sugar units of d-glucose, d-glucuronic acid, d-glucose (accompanied by 2 l-rhamnose in the side chain) and l-rhamnose, and forms a linear main chain with repeating side chains.

[0049] In a preferred embodiment, gellan gum is present in an amount in the range of 0.01 to 1% by weight, more preferably in the range of 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, and even more preferably in the range of 0.01 to 0.3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0050] Aliphatic alcohol The composition contains at least one aliphatic alcohol (component (d)). "Aliphatic alcohol" means an alcohol that is non-alkoxylated, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and has 14 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0051] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one aliphatic alcohol is selected from the group consisting of linear and / or branched C 14 ~C 30 aliphatic alcohols; more preferably linear C 14 ~C 30selected from the group consisting of aliphatic alcohols; more preferably selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol. In the most preferred embodiment, the aliphatic alcohol is cetearyl alcohol.

[0052] In a preferred embodiment, component (d) is present in an amount in the range of 2.5 to 20% by weight, preferably in the range of 3 to 15% by weight, more preferably in the range of 4 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. The amount of the aliphatic alcohol described above in this specification can account for up to 100% (or 100%) of the total amount of at least one nonionic surfactant in the composition.

[0053] Nonionic surfactant The composition contains at least one nonionic surfactant (component (e)). "Nonionic surfactant" means any nonionic surfactant other than aliphatic alcohol.

[0054] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one nonionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of nonionic surfactants containing one or more polyethylene oxide chains, such as the following compounds: polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene castor oil, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylene fatty amides and their monoethanolamine and diethanolamine derivatives, and polyethoxylated fatty amines. More preferably, the at least one nonionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of polyoxyethylene C8 - C 30 alkyl ethers; even more preferably, polyoxyethylene C8 - C having at least two ethylene oxide units, or at least five ethylene oxide units 30 alkyl ethers; still more preferably, polyoxyethylene C8 - C having 10 to 50 ethylene oxide units 30from the group consisting of alkyl ethers; most preferably polyoxyethylene C8-C having 15 to 30 ethylene oxide units 30 from the group consisting of alkyl ethers; particularly selected from the group consisting of cetareth-25 and steareth-20. Steareth-20 is particularly preferred.

[0055] In a preferred embodiment, component (e) is present in an amount in the range of 0.2 to 5% by weight, more preferably in the range of 0.5 to 4% by weight, and even more preferably in the range of 1.0 to 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. The amount of the nonionic surfactant described previously herein can account for up to 100% by weight (or 100% by weight) of the total amount of the nonionic surfactant in the composition.

[0056] Weight ratio of aliphatic alcohol to nonionic surfactant In a preferred embodiment, the composition contains component (d) relative to component (e) in a weight ratio in the range of 10.0:0.5 to 10.0:4.0, more preferably in the range of 10.0:1.0 to 10.0:3.5, and even more preferably in the range of 10.0:1.5 to 10.0:3.0.

[0057] Gel network system In a preferred embodiment, at least one aliphatic alcohol and nonionic surfactant are included in the composition, at least partially or entirely, in a gel network system.

[0058] In a preferred embodiment, the composition contains the total amount of component (d) and component (d) described above herein in the range of 2.7 to 25% by weight, preferably in the range of 3.5 to 19% by weight, and more preferably in the range of 5.0 to 12.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0059] In a preferred embodiment, the formation of the gel network involves heating a dispersion of at least one aliphatic alcohol in water containing a surfactant to a temperature above 80 °C. During the mixing process, the aliphatic alcohol melts and the surfactant is divided into aliphatic alcohol droplets. The surfactant brings water along with itself into at least one aliphatic alcohol. Thereby, isotropic aliphatic alcohol droplets are transformed into liquid crystal phase droplets. When the mixture is cooled below the melting temperature of the chains, the liquid crystal phase converts into a solid crystalline gel network. The gel network may in particular contribute to reducing or even removing the odor of the compound containing a mercapto functional group.

[0060] In a preferred embodiment, 50 to 100% by weight, more preferably 70 to 100% by weight, even more preferably 90 to 100% by weight, and most preferably 100% by weight of component (d) is included in the gel network. In a preferred embodiment, 50 to 100% by weight, more preferably 70 to 100% by weight, even more preferably 90 to 100% by weight, and most preferably 100% by weight of component (e) is included in the gel network.

[0061] Cosmetically acceptable carrier In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one cosmetically acceptable carrier or solvent.

[0062] In a preferred embodiment, the solvent is an aqueous carrier; more preferably, an aqueous carrier selected from the group consisting of water and water-soluble polyhydric alcohols; even more preferably, an aqueous carrier selected from the group consisting of water and glycerin; and most preferably, the aqueous carrier is water, or alternatively a mixture of water and glycerin.

[0063] Water-soluble polyhydric alcohols can have two or more hydroxyl groups in the molecule. Polyhydric alcohols include dihydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol, 1,2- or 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol; furthermore, trimethylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,4-butylene glycol, tetramethylene glycol, 2,3-butylene glycol, pentamethylene glycol, 2-butene-1,4-diol, hexylene glycol, octylene glycol; trihydric alcohols such as glycerol, trimethylolpropane, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, etc.; tetrahydric alcohols such as pentaerythritol; pentahydric alcohols such as xylitol, etc.; hexahydric alcohols such as sorbitol, mannitol; polyhydric alcohol polymers such as diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, diglycerol, polyethylene glycol, triglycerol, tetraglycerol, polyglycerol; dihydric alcohol alkyl ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monophenyl ether, ethylene glycol monohexyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-2-methylhexyl ether, ethylene glycol isoamyl ether, ethylene glycol benzyl ether, ethylene glycol isopropyl ether, ethylene glycol dimethyl ether, ethylene glycol diethyl ether, ethylene glycol dibutyl ether;Divalent alcohol alkyl ethers, such as diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol dimethyl ether, diethylene glycol diethyl ether, diethylene glycol butyl ether, diethylene glycol methyl ethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol monobutyl ether, propylene glycol isopropyl ether, dipropylene glycol methyl ether, dipropylene glycol ethyl ether, dipropylene glycol butyl ether; divalent alcohol ether esters, such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether acetate, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether acetate, ethylene glycol monophenyl ether acetate, ethylene glycol adipate, ethylene glycol succinate, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether acetate, diethylene glycol monobutyl ether acetate, propylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, propylene glycol monoethyl ether acetate, propylene glycol monopropyl ether acetate and propylene glycol monophenyl ether acetate. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the water-soluble polyhydric alcohol is selected from the group consisting of propylene glycol and glycerol.;

[0064] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetically acceptable carrier is present in an amount of 55.0% by weight or more, more preferably 60.0% by weight or more, even more preferably 65.0% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition. In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetically acceptable carrier is present in an amount in the range of 55.0 to 90.0% by weight, more preferably in the range of 60.0 to 85.0% by weight, even more preferably in the range of 65.0 to 80.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.;

[0065] The composition may contain water as the only cosmetically acceptable carrier. In this embodiment, the composition is substantially free of water-soluble polyhydric alcohols. In a preferred embodiment, water is present in an amount of 55.0% by weight or more, more preferably 60.0% by weight or more, even more preferably 65.0% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition. In a preferred embodiment, water is present in an amount in the range of 55.0 to 90.0% by weight, preferably in the range of 60.0 to 85.0% by weight, more preferably in the range of 65.0 to 80.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0066] Alternatively, the composition may contain water as the main cosmetically acceptable carrier and at least one water-soluble polyhydric alcohol as the second cosmetically acceptable carrier. In a preferred embodiment, water is present in an amount of 50.0% by weight or more, preferably 55.0% by weight or more, more preferably 60.0% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition, and the balance of the cosmetically acceptable carrier consists of one water-soluble polyhydric alcohol. In a preferred embodiment, water is present in an amount in the range of 50.0 to 85.0% by weight, preferably in the range of 55.0 to 80.0% by weight, more preferably in the range of 60.0 to 75.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, and the balance of the cosmetically acceptable carrier consists of one water-soluble polyhydric alcohol.

[0067] Additional surfactant In a preferred embodiment, the composition contains at least one surfactant other than a nonionic surfactant, in an amount which is small, for example in the range of 0.1 to 5.0% by weight. Suitable surfactants generally have a lipophilic chain of 8 to 30 carbon atoms in length and can be selected from anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants and cationic surfactants.

[0068] However, in an alternative preferred embodiment, the composition substantially does not contain additional surfactants other than nonionic surfactants. The composition can substantially not contain anionic surfactants. The composition can substantially not contain amphoteric surfactants. The composition can substantially not contain cationic surfactants.

[0069] Additional thickeners and / or rheology modifiers (substantially not contained) In a preferred embodiment, the composition substantially does not contain additional thickeners and / or rheology modifiers other than diutan gum.

[0070] For example, the additional thickeners and / or rheology modifiers are xanthan gum, tara gum, guar, hydroxypropyl guar, scleroglucan, methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, hydroxybutylmethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxyethylethylcellulose, cetylhydroxyethylcellulose, N-vinylpyrrolidone, acrylate / cetes-20 itaconate copolymer, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, polyethoxylated urethane or polycarbamyl polyglycol ester, such as PEG-150 / decyl / SMDI copolymer, PEG-150 / stearyl / SMDI copolymer, trihydroxystearin, acrylate copolymer or hydrophobically modified acrylate copolymer (such as acrylate / stearess-20 methacrylate copolymer), acrylate / stearess-20 methacrylate cross-polymer, acrylate / vinyl neodecanoate cross-polymer, acrylate / beheness-25 methacrylate copolymer, acrylate / Clu-30 alkyl acrylate cross-polymer, and nonionic amphoteric polymers containing at least one hydrophilic unit selected from at least one fatty chain and at least one polyether urethane containing at least one fatty chain; in particular, it can be selected from the group consisting of xanthan gum.

[0071] Cationic polymer (substantially not contained) In a preferred embodiment, the composition substantially does not contain a cationic polymer other than the quaternary ammonium salt of ethoxylated methyl glucose ether.

[0072] Reducing agent (substantially not contained) In a preferred embodiment, the composition substantially does not contain a reducing agent, especially a reducing agent containing a mercapto functional group. A reducing agent is a compound suitable for reducing the disulfide bonds of hair. Reducing agents are usually present in cosmetic compositions for the permanent deformation of keratin fibers. For example, the reducing agent can be selected from the group consisting of cysteamine, cysteine, thioglycolic acid and their salts.

[0073] Alkalizing agent (substantially not contained) In a preferred embodiment, the composition substantially does not contain an alkalizing agent other than a pH adjuster. Alkalizing agents are usually present in cosmetic compositions for the permanent deformation of keratin fibers. For example, the alkalizing agent can be selected from the group consisting of ammonia and monoethanolamine.

[0074] Colorant (substantially not contained) In a preferred embodiment, the composition substantially does not contain a colorant. Colorants can be selected from the group consisting of direct dyes, pigments and oxidation dye precursors (including bases and toners).

[0075] Liquid oil In a preferred embodiment, the composition contains at least one liquid oil.

[0076] For example, the liquid oil can be selected from the group consisting of avocado oil, camellia oil, turtle oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, egg yolk oil, sesame oil, parsic oil, wheat germ oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, linseed oil, safflower oil, cottonseed oil, perilla oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, camellia oil, kaya seed oil, rice bran oil, Chinese tung oil, Japanese tung oil, jojoba oil, germ oil, triglyceride, glyceryl trioctanoate, glyceryl triisopalmitate, liquid lanolin, hexyl laurate, liquid hydrocarbon esters such as liquid paraffin, mineral oil, isododecane, fatty acid oil, squalene, ester oil such as cetyl octanoate and isopropyl myristate.

[0077] When present, at least one liquid oil is present in an amount in the range of 0.1 to 5.0% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. Alternatively, the composition can be substantially free of liquid oil. The absence of liquid oil can help avoid the generation of a significant amount of steam when the hair is heated, for example, by using a flat iron.

[0078] Solid fats and waxes In a preferred embodiment, the composition includes at least one solid fat and wax.

[0079] For example, solid fats and waxes can be selected from the group consisting of cocoa butter, coconut oil, horse fat, hydrogenated coconut oil, palm oil, tallow, mutton fat, hydrogenated tallow, palm kernel oil, lard, beef bone fat, wood wax kernel oil, hydrogenated castor oil; lanolin, kapok wax, lanolin acetate, isopropyl lanolin fatty acid, reduced lanolin, hard lanolin, POE lanolin alcohol ether, POE lanolin alcohol acetate, POE cholesterol ether, polyethylene glycol lanolin fatty acid, POE hydrogenated lanolin alcohol ether; hydrocarbons, non-volatile hydrocarbons and solid hydrocarbon esters such as solid paraffin, vaseline, ozokerite, pristane, ceresin, petrolatum, microcrystalline wax; phospholipids such as lecithin or ceramide, bead wax, apple wax, candelilla wax, cotton wax, carnauba wax, barberry wax, insect wax, whale wax, montan wax, rice bran wax, kapok wax, sugar cane wax, jojoba wax, and shellac wax. The wax is not an aliphatic alcohol.

[0080] When present, at least one solid fat and wax is present in an amount in the range of 0.1 to 5.0% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. Alternatively, the composition can be substantially free of solid fats and waxes. The absence of solid fats and waxes can help avoid the generation of a significant amount of steam when the hair is heated, for example, by using a flat iron.

[0081] Silicone In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one silicone. The silicone can be volatile or non-volatile, and soluble or insoluble. "Soluble type" means that the silicone is miscible with the aqueous carrier of the composition in order to form a homogeneous phase. "Insoluble type" means that the silicone forms a separate discontinuous phase from the aqueous carrier, for example, in the form of an emulsion or suspension of silicone droplets.

[0082] For example, soluble silicone can be selected from the group consisting of silicone copolyols such as dimethicone copolyol, such as polyether siloxane-modified polymers, such as polypropylene oxide and / or polyethylene oxide at levels sufficient to enable dissolution in the composition, polyethylene oxide-modified polydimethylsiloxane. Insoluble silicone can have a viscosity of 1,000 to 2,000,000 mPa·s at 25°C, preferably 10,000 to 1,800,000 mPa·s, more preferably 100,000 to 1,500,000 mPa·s. The viscosity can be measured by means of a glass capillary viscometer as described in the Dow Corning (Gorparate) test method CTM0004 of July 20, 1970. In particular, insoluble silicone can be selected from the group consisting of polyalkyl siloxane, polyaryl siloxane, polyalkylaryl siloxane, polyether siloxane copolymer, dimethyl polysiloxane containing terminal hydroxyl groups, methylphenyl polysiloxane containing terminal hydroxyl groups and mixtures thereof, low molecular weight oligomeric polydimethylsiloxane or cyclic polydimethylsiloxane, polyether siloxane copolymer. Particularly preferred silicone conditioning polymers are CTFA: dimethicone, amodimethicone, dimethicone bisaminohydroxypropyl copolyol, bisamino PEG / PPG-41 / 3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicone, dihydroxy polydimethylsiloxane (CTFA: dimethiconol). Also preferred are volatile silicones, such as CTFA: dimethicone, dimethicone copolyol and cyclodimethicone.

[0083] When present, at least one silicone is present in an amount in the range of 0.1 to 6.0% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. Alternatively, the composition can be substantially free of silicone.

[0084] Swelling agent In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one swelling agent. So-called swelling agents and penetration substances can be added to the hair shaping composition, examples being urea, melamine, ethers such as dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether, 2-pyrrolidone, imidazolidin-2-one, 1-methyl-2-pyrrolidone, alkali or ammonium thiocyanate, polyhydric alcohols, isopropanol; preferably the swelling agent and the penetration substance are urea.

[0085] When present, the swelling agent is present in an amount in the range of 0.1 to 5.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Alternatively, the composition can be substantially free of the swelling agent.

[0086] Additives The composition may further comprise conventional and known additives.

[0087] For example, suitable additives are: alcohols such as ethanol, propanol, isopropanol; sugar alcohols such as sorbitol, maltitol, maltotriose, mannitol, sucralose, erythritol, glucose, fructose, starch sugar, maltose, xylitol, starch sugar reduced alcohol; preservatives such as benzyl alcohol, methyl paraben, propyl paraben and imidazolidinyl urea; antioxidants such as tocopherol; sequestering agents such as disodium ethylenediaminetetraacetate, ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid and its salts; salts such as sodium chloride, potassium chloride, ammonium chloride, sodium sulfide, potassium sulfide and ammonium sulfide, salts such as sodium chloride, potassium chloride, ammonium chloride, sodium sulfide, potassium sulfide and ammonium sulfide; pearlescent aids such as ethylene glycol distearate and mica; UV filters and sunscreens such as isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, lipophilic cinnamate esters, salicylate esters, 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives or hydrophilic sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenone or 3-benzylidenecamphor; pH adjusters such as citric acid, formic acid, acetic acid, butyric acid, pyruvic acid, sodium citrate, succinic acid, phosphoric acid, sodium hydroxide, sodium carbonate; opacifying agents such as kaolin and titanium oxide; solubilizers; perfumes; dyes; and amino acids and / or hydrolyzed proteins.

[0088] When present, the alcohol is present in an amount in the range of 0.1 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition; each sugar alcohol, salt, pearlescent aid and UV filter and sunscreen is present in an amount in the range of 0.1 to 5.0% by weight; each antioxidant, pH adjuster, sequestering agent, opacifying agent, preservative, perfume, solubilizer, amino acid and hydrolyzed protein and / or dye is present in an amount in the range of 0.01 to 1.0% by weight.

[0089] pH In a preferred embodiment, the composition has a pH in the range of 4.0 or less, more preferably in the range of 1.0 to 3.5, and even more preferably in the range of 1.5 to 3.0.

[0090] The pH of the composition can be adjusted using a pH adjuster containing an oxidizing and / or basifying agent. The basifying agent can be selected from the group consisting of mineral alkali agents, organic alkali agents, and alkali hydrides. For example, suitable mineral alkali agents can be selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide; preferably, the mineral alkali agent is sodium hydroxide.

[0091] Viscosity In a preferred embodiment, the composition has a viscosity at 25 °C in the range of 100 to 2,000 mPa·s, preferably in the range of 200 to 1,500 mPa·s, more preferably in the range of 500 to 1,000 mPa·s.

[0092] In a preferred embodiment, the viscosity is determined as follows: The viscosity measurement is performed using a TA Instruments AR500, AR1000 or AR2000 type controlled stress rheometer, or equivalent machine. A 6 cm flat acrylic cross-hatch parallel plate geometry (TA item 518600.901) and a stainless steel cross-hatch base plate (TA item 570011.001) are used. The rheometer is prepared for flow measurement according to standard manufacturer's procedures. The gap of the parallel plate geometry is set to 1,000 microns. The flow procedure is programmed into the rheometer using the following conditions: The continuous stress ramp is at 25 °C for 2 minutes, from 0.1 to 300 Pa, in linear mode with 250 measurement points. The product is loaded into the geometry according to standard procedures. The shear stress value at a shear rate of 10 sec -1 is obtained from the shear stress vs shear rate curve, and the corresponding viscosity is calculated by dividing the obtained shear stress by 10.

[0093] Application Forms In one embodiment, the composition is a leave-on composition. "Leave-on" means a composition that is not rinsed off after application to the hair, particularly before flat ironing the hair. In an alternative embodiment, the composition is a rinse-off composition. "Rinse-off" means a composition that is rinsed off after application to the hair, particularly before flat ironing the hair. The composition is preferably a rinse-off composition.

[0094] The inventors have shown that the composition produces minimal steam when the hair is heated after application, for example by using a flat iron. This is advantageous when compared to conventional cosmetic compositions that are used particularly for semi-permanent deformation of the hair. Indeed, conventional cosmetic compositions can produce a significant amount of steam when the hair is heated, for example by using a flat iron. This is inconvenient for the cosmetologist and / or the user because it can irritate the eyes and mucous membranes and produce an undesirable / unpleasant odor. This is particularly inconvenient in a beauty salon where several cosmetologists may be working simultaneously.

[0095] Method for semi-permanent deformation of hair In a second aspect, the present invention relates to a method for semi-permanent deformation of hair. The method comprises the following steps: (A) providing the cosmetic composition described above; (B) applying the cosmetic composition to the hair; (C) applying heat to the hair using a heating device.

[0096] The composition can be applied to dry hair. The composition can be left on the hair at room temperature, preferably at a temperature in the range of 18 to 35 °C. The contact time of the composition with the hair is preferably in the range of 10 to 60 min, more preferably in the range of 20 to 40 min.

[0097] The application of heat to the hair (i.e., the heat treatment) preferably consists of heating the hair to a temperature in the range of 150 to 250 °C, preferably in the range of 170 to 230 °C, more preferably in the range of 185 to 220 °C.

[0098] When applying heat, the heating device passes over the hair at least once, preferably 5 to 15 times, more preferably 8 to 10 times. The heating device is preferably selected from known heating devices; more preferably, the heating device is a hair iron, and the hair iron is preferably selected from the group consisting of a straightening flat iron and a curling iron. The hair iron usually includes heating tongs, which are generally metal heating tongs.

[0099] Prior to applying the composition of the present invention, the hair can be washed using, for example, a shampoo composition and a rinse with water. After rinsing, prior to applying the composition of the present invention, the hair can be dried using, for example, a blow dryer.

[0100] Prior to applying the composition of the present invention, a pre-treatment composition can be applied to the hair.

[0101] A post-treatment composition can be applied to the hair after applying heat. The post-treatment composition can be, for example, a conditioning composition.

[0102] Use In a third aspect, the present invention relates to the use of a composition for semi-permanent shaping of hair as described above.

[0103] Advantages The present invention presents one or more of the following advantages: - The composition provides excellent semi-permanent shaping performance; - The composition provides hair handleability and hair conditioning; - The composition does not impart any unpleasant stinging and itching irritation; - The composition does not damage the hair; - The composition generates a minimal amount of vapor upon application; - The composition provides sufficient concentration, rinsability, combability after washing (before flat ironing), combability with the product, feel of the hair before flat ironing, and feel of the hair after blow drying and / or using a straightening iron; - The composition is easy to manufacture because it contains only a very small number of components; and - The composition does not adhere to the hair.

[0104] Embodiments Exemplary embodiments of the present invention are listed below, but do not limit the present invention. In particular, the present invention also includes embodiments resulting from dependent references and thus combinations specified later in this specification. More specifically, when naming the scope of the following embodiments, for example, the expression "the method according to any one of Embodiments 1 to 4" means that any combination of the embodiments within this scope is explicitly disclosed to those skilled in the art, and it should be understood that this expression should be regarded as synonymous with "the method according to any one of Embodiments 1, 2, 3, and 4".

[0105] Embodiment 1 - A cosmetic composition for the semi-permanent deformation of keratin fibers, preferably human hair, comprising: (a) At least one alpha-keto acid, optionally in the form of its salt or its hydrate; (b) A quaternary ammonium salt of an ethoxylated methyl glucose ether containing at least one, on average, 5 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; (c) Dithangum; (d) At least one aliphatic alcohol; and (e) At least one non-ionic surfactant different from component (d) A cosmetic composition containing the above components.

[0106] Embodiment 2 - The composition according to Embodiment 1, wherein at least one alpha-keto acid is selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, pyruvic acid, and 2-ketobutyric acid, and preferably the alpha-keto acid is glyoxylic acid.

[0107] Embodiment 3 - The composition according to Embodiment 1 or 2, wherein component a) is present in an amount in the range of 3.0 to 25.0% by weight, preferably in the range of 5.0 to 22.0% by weight, more preferably in the range of 10.0 to 19.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0108] Embodiment 4 - The composition according to any one of Embodiments 1 to 3, wherein the quaternary ammonium salt of ethoxylated methylglucose ether containing an average of 5 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide is lauryl methylgluceth-10 hydroxypropyldimonium chloride.

[0109] Embodiment 5 - The composition according to any one of Embodiments 1 to 4, wherein component b) is present in an amount in the range of 0.1 to 10.0% by weight, more preferably in the range of 0.1 to 5% by weight, even more preferably in the range of 0.5 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0110] Embodiment 6 - The composition according to any one of Embodiments 1 to 5, wherein the diutan gum has a weight average molecular weight in the range of 2.8 million daltons to 5.2 million daltons as determined according to the described method.

[0111] Embodiment 7 - The composition according to any one of Embodiments 1 to 6, wherein component c) is present in an amount in the range of 0.01 to 1.0% by weight, preferably in the range of 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, more preferably in the range of 0.01 to 0.3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0112] Embodiment 8 - At least one aliphatic alcohol is selected from the group consisting of linear or branched C14 - C30 aliphatic alcohols; more preferably from the group consisting of linear C 14 ~C 30 aliphatic alcohols; even more preferably selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, the composition according to any one of Embodiments 1 to 7.

[0113] Embodiment 9 - The composition according to any one of Embodiments 1 to 8, wherein component d) is present in an amount in the range of 2.5 to 20.0% by weight, preferably in the range of 3 to 15% by weight, more preferably in the range of 4 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0114] Embodiment 10 - At least one nonionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of polyoxyethylene C8 - C 30 alkyl ethers; preferably from the group consisting of polyoxyethylene C8 - C 30 alkyl ethers having at least two ethylene oxide units, or at least five ethylene oxide units; more preferably from the group consisting of polyoxyethylene C8 - C 30 alkyl ethers having 10 to 50 ethylene oxide units; preferably from the group consisting of polyoxyethylene C8 - C 30 alkyl ethers having 15 to 30 ethylene oxide units; more preferably selected from the group consisting of ceteth - 25 and steareth - 20, the composition according to any one of Embodiments 1 to 9.

[0115] Embodiment 11 - The composition according to any one of Embodiments 1 to 10, wherein component e) is present in an amount in the range of 0.2 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably in the range of 0.5 to 4% by weight, even more preferably in the range of 1.0 to 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0116] Embodiment 12 - (a) At least one alpha - keto acid is present in an amount in the range of 3.0 to 25.0% by weight, preferably in the range of 5.0% to 22.0% by weight, more preferably in the range of 10.0 to 19.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition; (b) At least one quaternary ammonium salt of an ethoxylated methylglucose ether is present in an amount in the range of 0.1 to 10.0% by weight, more preferably in the range of 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, even more preferably in the range of 0.5 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition; (c) The diutan gum is present in an amount in the range of 0.01 to 1.0% by weight, preferably in the range of 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, more preferably in the range of 0.01 to 0.3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition; (d) At least one aliphatic alcohol is present in an amount in the range of 2.5 to 20.0% by weight, preferably in the range of 3.0 to 15.0% by weight, more preferably in the range of 4.0 to 10.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition; (e) At least one nonionic surfactant is present in an amount in the range of 0.2 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably in the range of 0.5 to 4.0% by weight, even more preferably in the range of 1.0 to 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. The composition according to any one of Embodiments 1 to 11.

[0117] The composition according to any one of Embodiments 1 to 12, having a pH in the range of 13 - 4.0 or less, preferably in the range of 1 to 3.5, more preferably in the range of 1.5 to 3.0.

[0118] The composition according to any one of Embodiments 1 to 13, further comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable carrier.

[0119] The composition according to any one of Embodiments 1 to 14, having a viscosity in the range of 100 to 2,000 mPa·s, preferably in the range of 200 to 1,500 mPa·s, more preferably in the range of 500 to 1,000 mPa·s, as determined according to the method described at 25°C.

[0120] The composition according to any one of Embodiments 1 to 15, comprising component (d) in a weight ratio to component (e) in the range of 10.0:0.5 to 10.0:4.0, more preferably in the range of 10.0:1.0 to 10.0:3.5, even more preferably in the range of 10.0:1.5 to 10.0:3.0.

[0121] Embodiment 17 - The composition according to any one of Embodiments 1 to 16, wherein component (d) and component (e) are partially or wholly included in the composition in a gel network system.

[0122] Embodiment 18 - The composition according to any one of Embodiments 1 to 17, which is a leave-on composition or a rinse-off composition; preferably a rinse-off composition.

[0123] Embodiment 19 - A method for semi-permanent deformation of hair, comprising at least the following steps: (A) Providing a cosmetic composition according to any one of Embodiments 1 to 18; (B) Applying the cosmetic composition to the hair; and (C) Applying heat to the hair using a heating device The method comprising.

[0124] Embodiment 20 - The method according to Embodiment 19, wherein in step (C), the hair is heated to a temperature in the range of 150 to 250 °C, preferably in the range of 170 to 230 °C, more preferably in the range of 185 to 220 °C.

[0125] Embodiment 21 - The method according to Embodiment 19 or 20, wherein in step (C), the heating device is a hair iron.

[0126] Embodiment 22 - The method according to Embodiment 21, wherein the hair iron is selected from the group consisting of a straightening flat iron or a curling iron.

[0127] Embodiment 23 - Use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of Embodiments 1 to 18 for semi-permanent deformation of hair.

[0128] The present invention is described with respect to its specific embodiments, but specific modifications and equivalents will be apparent to those skilled in the art and are intended to be included within the scope of the present invention.

Examples

[0129] The present invention is illustrated in detail by the following non-limiting examples. More specifically, the test methods specified hereinafter are part of the entire disclosure of the application and are not limited to specific examples.

[0130] Materials Glyoxylic acid: Glyoxo HighPure 50 from Weylchem Lauryl methyl gluceth-10 hydroxypropyldimonium chloride: Glucquat (trademark) 125 wetting agent from Lubrizol Xanthan gum: Kelco-Care (trademark) xanthan gum from CP Kelco France or Lubrizol Ceteareth alcohol Steareth-20 Water Glycerin Sodium hydroxide

[0131] Preparation of the cosmetic composition The formation of the gel network involves heating a dispersion of aliphatic alcohol in water containing a nonionic surfactant to a temperature above 80°C. During the mixing process, the aliphatic alcohol melts and the surfactant is divided into droplets of aliphatic alcohol. The surfactant brings water with itself into the aliphatic alcohol. This changes the isotropic aliphatic alcohol droplets into liquid crystal phase droplets. When the mixture is cooled below the melting temperature of the chains, the liquid crystal phase is converted into a solid crystalline gel network. Then, other materials are added to obtain the mixture.

[0132] Formulation TIFF2025522040000002.tif90170

[0133] Method for semi-permanent deformation of hair The semi-permanent shaping method includes the following steps: (A) Washing the hair with a shampoo composition; (B) Combing or brushing the hair; (C) Towel-drying the hair; (D) Blow-dry the hair for, for example, 1 minute; (E) Comb or brush the hair; (F) Apply a cosmetic composition for semi-permanent deformation to the hair; (G) Comb or brush the hair; (H) Leave the composition on the hair for a sufficient time for deformation, for example, approximately 20 minutes; (I) Rinse the hair and thoroughly wash off the composition; (J) Blow-dry the hair; and (K) Divide the hair into small bundles and draw a flat iron through the bundles from the root to the tip 6 - 8 times.

[0134] Example 1: Half-head test The hair damage caused by the composition of the present invention (invention) was tested in five different models using a half-head test with a scanning electron microscope (SEM).

[0135] Test preparations The composition (invention) has the following formulation: glyoxylic acid 15.0 wt%, cetearyl alcohol 6.75 wt%, glycerin 4.96 wt%, lauryl methyl gluceth - 10 hydroxypropyl dimonium chloride 2.0 wt%, steareth - 20 1.48 wt%, sodium hydroxide 3.0 wt%, diutan gum 0.15 wt%, appropriate amount of water 100 wt%. Untreated hair was used as a control.

[0136] Sample preparation Approximately 10 single hair fibers per sample were attached to an alumina stub using conductive double-sided adhesive tape.

[0137] SEM protocol SEM inspection was performed using the following conditions: - Instrument: Zeiss Ultra 55 from Mantis - Mode: HV - Acc. Voltage: 0 / 8 kV - Actuating distance (Fee working distance): 7 mm - Inclination: 0° - Detection: SE2 - Coating: Uncoated - Documentation: * .TIF

[0138] Results The untreated samples (controls) have only minor damage to almost no damage (see FIGS. 1a / b for examples).

[0139] Compared to the untreated samples, none of the five samples tested with this composition (invention) showed recognizable damage, corresponding to 100% success. For examples of samples that were treated with this composition (invention) and did not receive damage, see FIGS. 2a / b.

[0140] Modifications and variations of the present invention and further embodiments thereof will be apparent to those skilled in the art from the entire contents of this document in addition to what is described herein. The subject matter herein includes information, examples, and guidance that can be adapted for the practice of various embodiments of this invention and their equivalents. The appended claims are intended to cover all such modifications, variations, embodiments, and equivalents.

[0141] Example 2: Comparative Test The performance of the composition of the present application (Composition A) was compared with the performance of three comparative compositions (comparatives), any one of which does not contain diutan gum (Composition 1), does not contain a quaternary ammonium salt of ethoxylated methyl glucose ether containing an average of 5 - 30 moles of ethylene oxide (Composition 2), or does not contain both compounds (Composition 3).

[0142] Test Formulations The test compositions had the following formulations: TIFF2025522040000003.tif77170

[0143] Protocol A cosmetologist applied the compositions to the mannequin's hair and evaluated and compared their performance based on different characteristics, benefits, and / or advantages.

[0144] The cosmetologist evaluated the performance of each composition using the following scales for each characteristic, benefit, or advantage: TIFF2025522040000004.tif45170

[0145] Results The evaluation results by the cosmetologist are summarized in the table below: TIFF2025522040000005.tif71170

[0146] The results reported in Table 4 demonstrate that the compositions of the present invention provide equal or improved performance beyond expectation, according to the characteristics, benefits, or advantages considered.

[0147] Variations and modifications of the present invention and its further embodiments will be apparent to those skilled in the art from the entire content of this document in addition to what is described herein. The subject matter herein includes information, exemplifications, and guidance that can be adapted for the practice of various embodiments of this invention and their equivalents. The appended claims are intended to cover all such variations, modifications, embodiments, and equivalents.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition for the semi-permanent deformation of keratin fibers, preferably human hair, comprising: (a)At least one alpha-keto acid, optionally in the form of its salt or its hydrate; (b)At least one quaternary ammonium salt of an ethoxylated methyl glucose ether containing an average of 5 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; (c)Dithangum; (d)At least one fatty alcohol which is a non-alkoxylated, saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched-chain alcohol having 14 to 30 carbon atoms; and (e)At least one non-ionic surfactant different from component (d) A cosmetic composition containing.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein at least one alpha-keto acid is selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, pyruvic acid and 2-ketobutyric acid; preferably the alpha-keto acid is glyoxylic acid.

3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the quaternary ammonium salt of the ethoxylated methyl glucose ether containing an average of 5 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide is lauryl methyl gluceth-10 hydroxypropyl dimonium chloride.

4. At least one aliphatic alcohol is selected from the group consisting of linear C １４ -C ３０ aliphatic alcohols; preferably the composition according to claim 1, selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol.

5. At least one nonionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of polyoxyethylene C ８ to C ３０ alkyl ethers; preferably polyoxyethylene C having at least two ethylene oxide units, or at least five ethylene oxide units ８ to C ３０ alkyl ethers, more preferably polyoxyethylene C having 10 to 50 ethylene oxide units ８ to C ３０ alkyl ethers; preferably polyoxyethylene C having 15 to 30 ethylene oxide units ８ to C ３０ alkyl ethers; more preferably the composition according to claim 1, selected from the group consisting of ceteareth-25 and steareth-20.

6. (a)At least one alpha-keto acid is present in an amount in the range of 3.0 to 25.0% by weight, preferably in the range of 5.0 to 22.0% by weight, more preferably in the range of 10.0 to 19.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition; (b)At least one quaternary ammonium salt of an ethoxylated methyl glucose ether is present in an amount in the range of 0.1 to 10.0% by weight, more preferably in the range of 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, even more preferably in the range of 0.5 to 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition; (c)Dithangum is present in an amount in the range of 0.01 to 1.0% by weight, preferably in the range of 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, more preferably in the range of 0.01 to 0.3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition; (d)At least one fatty alcohol is present in an amount in the range of 2.5 to 20.0% by weight, preferably in the range of 3.0 to 15.0% by weight, more preferably in the range of 4.0 to 10.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition; and / or (e) At least one nonionic surfactant is present in an amount in the range of 0.2 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably in the range of 0.5 to 4.0% by weight, even more preferably in the range of 1.0 to 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. The composition according to claim 1.

7. The composition according to claim 1, having a pH in the range of 4.0 or less, preferably in the range of 1 to 3.5, more preferably in the range of 1.5 to 3.

0.

8. The composition according to claim 1, having a viscosity in the range of 100 to 2,000 mPa·s, preferably in the range of 200 to 1,500 mPa·s, more preferably in the range of 500 to 1,000 mPa·s, as determined according to the method described at 25°C.

9. The composition according to claim 1, containing component (d) in a weight ratio to component (e) in the range of 10.0:0.5 to 10.0:4.0, more preferably in the range of 10.0:1.0 to 10.0:3.5, even more preferably in the range of 10.0:1.5 to 10.0:3.

0.

10. The composition according to claim 1, wherein component (d) and component (e) are included in the composition, at least in part or entirely, in a gel network system.

11. A leave-on composition or a rinse-off composition; preferably a rinse-off composition, the composition according to claim 1.

12. A method for semi-permanent deformation of hair, comprising at least the following steps: (A) Providing a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11; (B) Applying the cosmetic composition to the hair; and (C) Applying heat to the hair using a heating device The method comprising.

13. In step (C), the hair is heated to a temperature in the range of 150 to 250°C, preferably in the range of 170 to 230°C, more preferably in the range of 185 to 220°C, the method according to claim 12.

14. In step (C), the heating device is a hair iron; preferably the hair iron is selected from the group consisting of a straightening flat iron or a curling iron, the method according to claim 12.

15. Use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11 for semi-permanent deformation of hair.

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