Watch parts and manufacturing method for watch parts

A transparent substrate with a colored enamel layer and opacifying finish enhances watch component durability and decoration flexibility, addressing the limitations of existing bezel disc technologies.

JP2025530022APending Publication Date: 2025-09-10ROLEX SA
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Patent Information

Application Number
JP2025505716
Authority / Receiving Office
JP · JP
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2022-08-02
Filing Date
2023-08-02
Publication Date
2025-09-10

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing watch components, particularly bezel discs, face challenges in achieving durable and reproducible decoration without restrictions on color choice and resistance to environmental damage, while maintaining aesthetic appeal.

Method used

A watch component comprising a transparent substrate with a colored enamel layer applied via transfer, followed by a second opacifying or metallic finish layer, which can be decorated using techniques like chromodecal, PVD, CVD, or ALD, and optionally featuring recesses for enhanced durability and visibility.

Benefits of technology

The solution allows for robust, reliable, and reproducible decoration of watch components with varied colors and finishes, providing durability against environmental factors and maintaining aesthetic appeal.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Abstract

A watch component and a method for manufacturing the watch component. Abstract: A watch component (1) comprising a substrate (11) made of at least a partially transparent material and a first colored enamel layer (12) applied to the substrate (11) by means of transfer, in particular by means of chromodecal.
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Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a timepiece component. The present invention also relates to a timepiece including such a timepiece component. Finally, the present invention relates to a method for manufacturing such a timepiece component. [Background technology]

[0002] In the field of watches, and in particular in the field of external components for small watches, there is a need to obtain a bezel disc that is decorated and durable in a reliable, robust and reproducible manner, i.e. a disc whose decoration can be changed without restrictions on the choice and association of colors in any design, for monochrome or multicolored results, and that is resistant to aging and environmental damage (scratches, UV rays, etc.), without the need to adapt the engineering of the watch to achieve these objectives.

[0003] Patent documents 1 and 2 describe the manufacture of components from opaque technical ceramics (such as alumina or zirconia) in which the decoration is produced by impregnation of metal salts onto the surface of the component visible to the user of the watch. It is difficult to obtain all color combinations using the methods described above.

[0004] Patent document 3 discloses a transparent small watch crystal, the lower surface of which is locally enameled to participate in the masking of the system for assembling the crystal to the case body. The patent document primarily claims a sealed case comprising a case back and a case back that delimit a housing closed by a crystal made of a transparent material resistant to temperatures above 500°C, glued or welded at the level of the joining area that at least partially covers the shoulder of the case body, wherein the inner surface of the crystal includes an enamel deposit formed at the level of the joining area.

[0005] Patent document 4 discloses a rotating bezel including a transparent disc, the underside of which is - recesses are provided for forming the hour markers, which are covered with a metal deposit that colors the hour markers; and - coated, for example with a varnish, to give the disc outside the recess a coloured appearance; The transparent disc allows the metal colored symbols to be seen, which contrasts with the coloring applied to the underside. An example is given in which the coloring is due to a varnish.

[0006] Patent document 5 discloses a part comprising a transparent substrate decorated with an enamel layer disposed in a recess, and a method for obtaining the same. The variation in the shade of the enamel disclosed in this patent is caused by a variation in the enamel thickness, which is controlled by the depth of the recesses into which the enamel is deposited (the recesses are on the surface and / or side of the part). This provides a range of shades for a single composition of enamel. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0007] [Patent Document 1] Swiss Patent Application Publication No. 707424 [Patent Document 2] Swiss Patent Application Publication No. 707423 [Patent Document 3] European Patent Application Publication No. 1734420 [Patent Document 4] Swiss Patent Application Publication No. 320817 [Patent Document 5] International Publication No. 2006 / 133810 [Non-patent literature]

[0008] [Non-Patent Document 1] Title: "Transparent ceramics - general characteristics and manufacturing processes" (General characteristics and manufacturing processes of transparent ceramics), Les Techniques de l'Ingenieur, by Remy Boulesteix and Alexandre Maitre, July 10, 2018. Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0009] The object of the present invention is to provide a timepiece component that makes it possible to improve upon components known from the prior art. In particular, the invention proposes a timepiece component that can be decorated in a simple manner, without the need to design the rest of the timepiece with dedicated means for the formation and protection of the decorative surface, and that provides a good durability to the decoration produced on the component. [Means for solving the problem]

[0010] The object of the first aspect of the present invention is defined by the following propositions.

[0011] 1. A substrate (11) made of an at least partially transparent material; a first layer of colored enamel (12) applied to the substrate (11) by means of transfer, in particular by means of chromodecal, Including, Watch parts (1).

[0012] 2. The watch part (1) comprises a second finish layer (13), in particular a second opacifying finish layer (13), applied at least partially onto the layer (12) of colored enamel; The watch part (1) described in proposal 1.

[0013] 3. The substrate is made of an inorganic material, such as technical ceramic, quartz, spinel, magnesium aluminate, AlON, YAG, cubic zirconia, mineral glass, polycrystalline alumina, glass ceramic, single crystal alumina, and / or the substrate has, at least locally, a real in-line transmittance for light of a wavelength of 550 nm of more than 60%, or more than 70%, or more than 80%, or more than 85%. A watch part (1) according to proposal 1 or 2.

[0014] 4. The substrate has a hardness of greater than 800Hv or greater than 1000Hv; A watch part (1) according to any one of proposals 1 to 3.

[0015] 5. The second finish layer comprises: a layer of enamel, in particular a layer of enamel applied by means of transfer, and / or Metallic layers deposited by PVD, CVD, ALD, PLD, among others, and / or other coating layers, such as paint, That is, A watch component (1) according to any one of proposals 1 to 4 and proposal 2.

[0016] 6. The clock component (1) is, in particular, Glass, Back cover, Bezel disc, Wristband elements, or Torso, The outer casing parts of the watch (100) are: Or the watch part (1) is particularly dial, flange, or A disk that displays clock information, These are internal parts of the watch (100): A watch part (1) according to any one of proposals 1 to 5.

[0017] 7. The substrate (11) comprises a first surface (111) and a second surface (112), in particular the second surface (112) being parallel or substantially parallel to the first surface (111); the first layer (12) and / or the second layer (13) is applied onto the first surface (111); The first surface (111), and in particular the first layer and / or the second layer applied thereon, are visible through the second surface (112) and the substrate (11). A watch part (1) according to any one of proposals 1 to 6.

[0018] 8. The substrate (11) comprises at least one second recess (15) produced on the second surface (112), in particular at least one second recess (15) produced by laser processing; Clock part (1) described in proposal 7.

[0019] 9. The at least one second recess (15) is coated, in particular coated with a metal-based layer, in particular coated with a metal-based layer deposited by PVD, CVD, ALD or PLD, Clock parts as described in proposal 8 (1).

[0020] 10. The substrate (11) has an anti-reflection treatment on the second surface (112). A watch part (1) according to any one of proposals 7 to 9.

[0021] 11. The substrate (11) comprises at least one first recess (14) produced on the first surface (11) after application of the first and second layers, in particular at least one first recess (14) produced by laser processing; A watch component (1) according to any one of proposals 1 to 10 and proposal 7.

[0022] 12. The at least one first recess (14) is coated, in particular coated with a metal-based layer, in particular coated with a metal-based layer deposited by PVD, CVD, ALD or PLD, Clock parts as described in Proposal 11 (1).

[0023] 13. The at least one first recess (14) is formed such that the area of ​​material removed by cutting at the height of a plane perpendicular to the direction in which the at least one first recess is formed is: the surface in which the at least one first recess is formed, in particular the lower surface (111) or the surface of the first layer (12) or the surface of the second layer (13); a surface defining the bottom of the at least one first recess; and extending in the direction in which the at least one first recess is formed. and / or the area of ​​material removed by cutting at the height of any plane parallel to the direction in which the at least one first recess is formed extends in a direction orthogonal to the direction in which the at least one first recess is formed. A watch part (1) as described in proposal 11 or 12.

[0024] 14. The at least one first recess (14) has an area on the millimeter, micrometer or nanometer scale, in particular at the height of the surface defining the bottom of the recess and / or at the height of the surface in which the recess is formed, A watch part (1) according to any one of proposals 11 to 13.

[0025] 15. A manufacturing method for a watch part (1), obtaining a substrate (11) made of an at least partially transparent material, and applying a first layer of colored enamel (12) onto the substrate (11) by means of transfer, in particular by means of Chromodecal, Including steps, Manufacturing method.

[0026] 16. The method comprises the application, at least partially, of a second finishing layer (13), in particular a second opacifying finishing layer (13), onto the layer (12) of colored enamel; Proposition 15 method .

[0027] 17. The application of the second layer comprises: application of a layer of enamel, in particular by means of transfer, in particular by means of chromodecal, and / or application of metal-based layers, in particular by PVD, CVD, ALD, PLD, and / or application of other coating layers, such as paint; That is, The manufacturing method described in Proposal 16.

[0028] 18. The manufacturing method comprises the step of manufacturing at least one first recess (14) on a first surface (111) of the substrate (11), in particular at least one first recess (14) manufactured by laser machining, and / or the manufacturing method comprises the step of manufacturing at least one second recess (15) on a second surface (112) of the substrate (11), in particular at least one second recess (15) manufactured by laser machining, The manufacturing method according to any one of proposals 15 to 17.

[0029] 19. The step of producing at least one first recess and / or the step of producing at least one second recess is carried out after the step of applying the layer of enamel (12) onto the substrate (11), and during the step of producing at least one first recess and / or the step of producing at least one second recess, the decoration formed by the layer of enamel is used as a marker, in particular as a machining marker. The manufacturing method described in Proposal 18.

[0030] 20. The method comprises a step of covering the at least one first recess (14) and / or the at least one second recess (15) with a metal-based layer, in particular a metal-based layer deposited by PVD, CVD, ALD or PLD, The manufacturing method described in Proposal 18 or 19.

[0031] 21. A watch part (1) obtained using the method according to any one of proposals 15 to 20.

[0032] 22. A watch (100) comprising a watch part (1) according to any one of proposals 1 to 14 and 21, in particular a watch part (1) according to any one of proposals 7 to 14, arranged so that the wearer of the watch (100) can see the first surface (111), in particular the first layer (12) and / or the second layer (13), through the second surface (112) and the substrate (11).

[0033] According to a second aspect of the invention, the objective is defined by the following proposition.

[0034] 23. A substrate (11) made of an at least partially transparent material; a first layer of colored enamel (12) applied onto the substrate (11), in particular by means of transfer, in particular by means of chromodecal, and a second finishing layer (13), in particular a second opacifying finishing layer (13), applied at least partially onto said layer (12) of colored enamel; Including, Watch parts (1).

[0035] 24. The substrate is made of an inorganic material, such as technical ceramic, quartz, spinel, magnesium aluminate, AlON, YAG, cubic zirconia, mineral glass, polycrystalline alumina, glass ceramic, or single crystal alumina, and / or the substrate has, at least locally, a real in-line transmittance for light of a wavelength of 550 nm of more than 60%, or more than 70%, or more than 80%, or more than 85%. Clock parts as described in Proposal 23 (1).

[0036] 25. The substrate has a hardness of greater than 800 Hv or greater than 1000 Hv; A watch part as described in Proposal 23 or 24 (1).

[0037] 26. The second finish layer comprises: a layer of enamel, in particular a layer of enamel applied by means of transfer, and / or Metallic layers deposited by PVD, CVD, ALD, PLD, among others, and / or other coating layers, such as paint, That is, A watch part (1) according to any one of proposals 23 to 25.

[0038] 27. The clock part (1) is, in particular, Glass, Back cover, Bezel disc, Wristband elements, or Torso, These are small external components of the watch (100), Or the watch part (1) is particularly dial, flange, or A disk that displays clock information, These are internal parts of the watch (100): A watch part (1) according to any one of proposals 23 to 26.

[0039] 28. The substrate (11) comprises a first surface (111) and a second surface (112), in particular the second surface (112) being parallel or substantially parallel to the first surface (111); the first layer (12) and / or the second layer (13) is applied onto the first surface (111); The first surface (111), and in particular the first layer and / or the second layer applied thereon, are visible through the second surface (112) and the substrate (11). A watch part (1) according to any one of proposals 23 to 27.

[0040] 29. The substrate (11) comprises at least one second recess (15) produced on the second surface (112), in particular at least one second recess (15) produced by laser processing; A watch component (1) according to claim 28.

[0041] 30. The at least one second recess (15) is coated, in particular coated with a metal-based layer, in particular coated with a metal-based layer deposited by PVD, CVD, ALD or PLD, Clock parts as described in Proposition 29 (1).

[0042] 31. The substrate (11) has an anti-reflection treatment on the second surface (112). A watch part (1) according to any one of proposals 28 to 30.

[0043] 32. The substrate (11) comprises at least one first recess (14) produced on the first surface (111) after application of the first and second layers, in particular at least one first recess (14) produced by laser processing; A watch part (1) according to any one of Proposals 23 to 31 and Proposal 28.

[0044] 33. The at least one first recess (14) is coated, in particular coated with a metal-based layer, in particular coated with a metal-based layer deposited by PVD, CVD, ALD or PLD; Clock parts as described in Proposal 32 (1).

[0045] 34. The at least one first recess (14) is formed such that the area of ​​material removed by cutting at the height of a plane perpendicular to the direction in which the at least one first recess is formed is: the surface in which the at least one first recess is formed, in particular the lower surface (111) or the surface of the first layer (12) or the surface of the second layer (13); a surface defining the bottom of the at least one first recess; and extending in the direction in which the at least one first recess is formed. and / or the area of ​​material removed by cutting at the height of any plane parallel to the direction in which the at least one first recess is formed extends in a direction orthogonal to the direction in which the at least one first recess is formed. A watch part as described in proposal 32 or 33 (1).

[0046] 35. The at least one first recess (14) has an area on the millimeter, micrometer or nanometer scale, in particular at the height of the surface defining the bottom of the recess and / or at the height of the surface in which the recess is formed. A watch part (1) according to any one of proposals 32 to 34.

[0047] 36. A manufacturing method for a watch part (1), obtaining a substrate (11) made of an at least partially transparent material; applying a first layer of colored enamel (12) onto said substrate (11), in particular by means of a transfer, in particular by means of a chromodecal, onto said substrate (11); and applying, at least partially, a second finishing layer (13), in particular a second opacifying finishing layer (13), onto said layer (12) of colored enamel, Including steps, Manufacturing method.

[0048] 37. The application of the second layer application of a layer of enamel, in particular by means of transfer, in particular by means of chromodecal, and / or application of metal-based layers, in particular by PVD, CVD, ALD, PLD, and / or application of other coating layers, such as paint; That is, The manufacturing method described in Prop. 36.

[0049] 38. The manufacturing method comprises the step of manufacturing at least one first recess (14) on a first surface (111) of the substrate (11), in particular at least one first recess (14) manufactured by laser machining, and / or the manufacturing method comprises the step of manufacturing at least one second recess (15) on a second surface (112) of the substrate (11), in particular at least one second recess (15) manufactured by laser machining, The manufacturing method described in Proposal 36 or 37.

[0050] 39. The step of producing at least one first recess and / or the step of producing at least one second recess is carried out after the step of applying the layer of enamel (12) onto the substrate (11), and during the step of producing at least one first recess and / or the step of producing at least one second recess, the decoration formed by the layer of enamel is used as a marker, in particular as a machining marker. Manufacturing methods described in Prop. 38.

[0051] 40. The method comprises a step of covering the at least one first recess (14) and / or the at least one second recess (15) with a metal-based layer, in particular a metal-based layer deposited by PVD, CVD, ALD or PLD, The manufacturing method described in Proposal 38 or 39.

[0052] 41. A watch part (1) obtained using the method according to any one of proposals 36 to 40.

[0053] 42. A watch (100) comprising a watch part (1) according to any one of proposals 25 to 35 and 41, in particular a watch part (1) according to any one of proposals 30 to 35, arranged so that the wearer of the watch (100) can see the first surface (111), in particular the first layer (12) and / or the second layer (13), through the second surface (112) and the substrate (11). [Brief explanation of the drawings]

[0054] [Figure 1] FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of an embodiment of a timepiece according to the present invention, with timepiece components shown in cross section. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0055] One embodiment of a watch 100 is described in detail below with reference to FIG.

[0056] The timepiece 100 is, for example, a small timepiece, particularly a wristwatch. - Clock movement and - Dial and The assembly includes:

[0057] The assembly is intended to be mounted within a case or watch case to protect it from the external environment.

[0058] The watch movement may be a mechanical movement, in particular an automatic movement, or a hybrid movement. Alternatively, the movement may be an electronic movement.

[0059] The watch 100, in particular the assembly or the casing or the dial or the movement, comprises a watch part 1. The watch part 1 is in particular - Glass, - Back cover, - bezel disc, - a wristband element, or - trunk, For example, it may be an outer casing part of the watch 100, such as Alternatively, the timepiece part 1 may in particular be - Dial, - flange, or - discs that display time information, For example, it may be an internal part of the watch 100.

[0060] Clock part 1 is a substrate 11 made of an at least partially transparent material; a first layer 12 of colored enamel applied, in particular by means of transfer, onto the substrate 11, in particular onto the first surface 111 of the substrate 11; Includes:

[0061] "Layer of colored enamel" means a layer of enamel that has a color visible to the naked eye, regardless of the color of the area in question. The color may therefore be, inter alia, achromatic (white, gray, or black). The "colored layer" therefore imparts its own color to the entire watch component or contributes to the color of the watch component. The final or resulting color of the watch component is a combination of the color of the colored layer, optionally adjusted by the color of a second finish layer and, if uncolored, the color of the substrate. The substrate is preferably uncolored, and the resulting color of the watch component is preferably the color resulting from the first layer of enamel 12 and the optional second finish layer 13. The substrate is preferably made of sapphire, an uncolored monocrystalline alumina, and the resulting color of the watch component is preferably the color resulting from the first layer of enamel 12 and the optional second finish layer 13.

[0062] the watch part comprises a first layer 12 of coloured enamel applied to the substrate 11 by means of chromodecal, in particular to the first surface 111 of the substrate 11; and / or the watch part comprises a second layer 13, either as a decorative finishing or support or opacifying layer, The second layer 13 is applied at least partially onto the first layer 12. The function of the second layer 13 is, inter alia, to provide a backing for the color of the colored enamel.

[0063] "Top layer" means the second of two conceivable superimposed layers, i.e., the one that completes the superposition or covers the first layer. Where the first layer and top layer are present, the first layer is between the substrate and the top layer. The function of the top layer is to act as a backing or opacifying layer, i.e., a layer that reduces or eliminates the transparency of the decoration formed by the colored layer, or more generally, to provide a backing for the color of the colored first layer.

[0064] "Backing layer" means a layer that enhances or modifies the color of a first layer.

[0065] "Opaque layer" or "opacifying layer" means a non-transparent layer, especially a layer of enamel that is not transparent. An opacifying layer reduces the transparency of the assembly it forms with the structure to which it is applied compared to the transparency of the structure itself. An opaque layer eliminates all transparency of the assembly it forms with the structure to which it is applied, regardless of the transparency of the structure itself. It is virtually impossible to see through an opaque layer.

[0066] The components are advantageously arranged within the watch 100 so that the wearer of the watch 100 can see the first layer 12 and / or the second layer 13 through the substrate 11. In other words, the wearer or user of the miniature watch advantageously sees through the substrate at the side of the first layer that is in contact with the substrate 11. The components are manufactured so that they are arranged in this configuration.

[0067] The first and / or second layer may be decorated, i.e. preferably - Graphic elements, or - Pattern, or - a combination of several graphic elements and / or patterns, or - Intricate Design Create a.

[0068] The decoration may be monochromatic or may be formed in multiple colors.

[0069] The main function of the first and / or second layer is decorative. The layer may also completely conceal elements located on the back side of the watch part 1, exposing certain areas through transparency.

[0070] According to one variant, when the timepiece part 1 is mounted on the rest of the timepiece: - Second layer 13 and / or - in the case of the absence of the second layer (possibly locally), the first layer 12; There are no contact elements.

[0071] The watch component 1 has the overall shape of a substrate, with the substrate 11 constituting the majority of the watch component 1 .

[0072] 1, the substrate 11 includes a first surface 111 and a second surface 112, particularly parallel or substantially parallel first and second surfaces 111, 112. Each of the first and second surfaces 111, 112 may be of any type, including planar, frustoconical, partially toroidal, dome-shaped, concave, or dome-convex shapes, among others.

[0073] For example, in Figure 1, surfaces 111 and 112 form the faces of the part. These faces are parallel. Alternatively, they may be non-parallel. If we assume that the watch part 1 consists of a bezel disc, the first and second surfaces are, for example, preferably two parallel frusto-conical surfaces.

[0074] Note that in Figure 1, first layer 12 is applied onto first surface 111. The first layer may be applied to all of first surface 111 or to only a portion of first surface 111 as shown in Figure 1.

[0075] 1, second layer 13 is applied over the assembly formed by first layer 12 and a portion of first surface 111 of the substrate, either opposite first surface 111 or perpendicularly aligned to first surface 111. Like the first layer, the second layer may be applied perpendicularly aligned to the entire first surface 111, or perpendicularly aligned to only a portion of first surface 111 as shown in FIG.

[0076] Thus, depending on the area of ​​the first surface involved, within the material of the watch part, starting from the first surface 111 (perpendicular to the first surface 111) towards the outside of the part, - the first layer 12, and then the second layer 13, or - Tier 12 only, or - Second layer 13 only, or - no layer (the substrate is not coated in the relevant area of ​​the first surface 111), It is possible to encounter

[0077] Because the substrate 11 is transparent, the first surface 111 and in particular the first layer 12 and / or second layer 13 applied thereon can be seen through the second surface 112 and the substrate 11 .

[0078] The substrate is preferably - technical ceramics, - quartz, - Spinel, - magnesium aluminate, - AlON (aluminum oxynitride), - YAG (yttrium aluminum garnet), - Cubic Zirconia, - mineral glass, - polycrystalline alumina, - glass ceramic, - Single crystal alumina (sapphire), These are based on or made from inorganic materials such as:

[0079] The first surface 111 preferably has a mirror-polished surface condition, and / or the second surface 112 preferably has a mirror-polished surface condition. However, at least the first surface 111 and / or the second surface 112 may also have a roughened surface condition, for example a matte surface condition. The roughened surface condition may be achieved, inter alia, by sandblasting and / or satinizing and / or brushing. The roughened surface condition may be formed using traditional tools and / or using a laser. This allows the watch part 1 to have a matte appearance. Alternatively, this allows the watch part 1 to have a matte appearance at least at the level of the part of the watch part where the roughened surface condition is formed.

[0080] The substrate is at least partially transparent. The substrate is preferably transparent and uncolored. More generally, the substrate may be made of an at least partially transparent material.

[0081] "At least partially transparent" means - the substrate comprises at least one transparent area; and / or - at least one region of the substrate, or the entire substrate, has a degree of transparency such that some light is not transmitted through the substrate; This means, for example, that the substrate has a translucent surface and a "real in-line transmittance of greater than 60%, even greater than 70%, even greater than 80%, or even greater than 85% for light with a wavelength of 550 nm." In other words, there is at least one location on the substrate where at least 60%, even at least 70%, even at least 80%, or even at least 85% of light with a wavelength of 550 nm can pass through the substrate from the second surface to the first surface. According to paper E6418v1 extracted from Non-Patent Document 1, transparency can actually be characterized by measuring the "real in-line transmittance" (RIT) of light. The real in-line transmittance is determined by a small aperture angle (on the order of 0.5°) using a spectrophotometer. The real in-line transmittance corresponds to the ratio of the intensity of light transmitted through a sample of material to the incident intensity. The RIT transparency is given by the Beer-Lambert law, depending on the sample thickness (x) and the wavelength of light (λ): RIT(λ)=[1-Rs(λ)].e -α(λ).x where Rs is the loss due to reflection at the two surfaces of the sample, which is on the order of 0.14 to 0.16 and can be evaluated using the following formula: Rs = 2.R'(λ) / [1+R'(λ)] where, for normal incidence, R'={[n(λ)-1] / [n(λ)+1]} 2 where n is the refractive index of the material and α(λ) is the extinction coefficient of the material, which takes into account optical losses caused by various sources of dispersion and absorption of light passing through the material.

[0082] For example, the substrate may be colored.

[0083] The method for manufacturing the above-mentioned timepiece component 1 will now be described.

[0084] Generally speaking, the manufacturing method includes the following steps: - providing a substrate 11 made of an at least partially transparent material; and - applying a first layer 12 of colored enamel onto the surface of the substrate 11, in particular by means of transfer;

[0085] the application of the first layer 12 of colored enamel onto the substrate 11 is carried out by means of the application of a chromodecal onto the substrate 11, in particular onto the first surface 111 of the substrate 11; and / or The method may include applying a second finishing layer 13 at least partially on the first layer 12 of colored enamel, It is preferable.

[0086] In other words, the solution that is the object of this specification relies on the particular use of enamel, deposited by means of chromodecals (or enaneldecals; the expressions "enamel decals" and "chromodecals" are to be considered equivalent), onto the surfaces intended to be seen by the user of the watch through the substrate 11. This is preferably carried out in two stages: - The first colored enamel layer, visible through the substrate, indicates the decoration, The second finish layer of enamel eliminates the transparency of the decoration or, more generally, enhances the color of the first colored enamel layer. The second enamel layer is preferably opaque. The second enamel layer is preferably opaque and white.

[0087] This makes it possible to obtain decorated and durable watch parts (for example bezel discs) in a reliable, robust and reproducible manner.

[0088] The second finishing or decorative backing or opaque layer is a layer of enamel, in particular applied by means of a transfer, in particular by means of a chromodecal, and / or - metallic layers, deposited in particular by PVD, CVD, ALD, PLD, and / or - other coating layers, such as paint, may be.

[0089] According to the invention, the method for manufacturing the timepiece component 1, for example for manufacturing the bezel disc, is preferably as follows. obtaining a transparent substrate, preferably of sapphire; - the enamel decoration is applied by means of chromodecals to the surface of the substrate that is intended to be seen through the substrate; - A finishing or backing or opacifying layer is applied on top of the enamel decoration.

[0090] On the contrary, in the conventional manner, for producing the timepiece component 1, in particular for producing the bezel disc, a substrate (usually opaque in view of its use as a decorative watch) is obtained, - an optional underlayer is applied on the surface of the substrate that is seen by the user in the absence of a coating on said surface; - an enamel decoration is applied to the surface of the substrate, which may be previously coated with an underlayer, - Over the enamel decoration, a glaze (clear, colorless enamel) is applied. In the case of the use of watch components on the external casing of a miniature watch, it is known that the outer surface of the component is very often exposed to attacks by the external environment, which can deteriorate the durability of the integrity of the decoration if deposited on said surface. The solution according to the invention provides a solution to this problem by exposing the bare surface of the component to such attacks, protecting the decoration placed on a more protected surface that can be seen through the transparent substrate.

[0091] More specific uses are described in more detail below.

[0092] In a first step, the substrate 11 to be decorated is obtained. The substrate constitutes part of the watch part 1, preferably the majority of the watch part 1.

[0093] The substrate must be able to withstand the enamelling conditions, that is, it must be able to withstand temperatures above 500°C, preferably above 750°C, which allow the vitrification of the enamel without suffering damage such as deformation or oxidation.

[0094] Furthermore, the substrate must preferably have sufficient hardness to withstand wear. The material from which the substrate is made preferably has a Vickers hardness greater than 800 Hv, or even greater than 1000 Hv. This is even more important in the case of external casing parts, where the parts may be exposed to mechanical attack.

[0095] In a second step, a first layer of enamel is applied. Thus, a decoration is applied to the substrate 11, in particular to the first surface 111 of the substrate 11. The decoration is preferably applied using chromo decals. Preferably, one or more chromo decals are applied to the substrate 11, in particular to the first surface 111 of the substrate 11, i.e. the enamel layer is applied using one or more chromo decals. Optionally, different chromo decals (e.g. of different colors) may be applied to different areas of the first surface 111, adjacent or not and / or at least partially stacked.

[0096] The decoration, the pattern of which is determined by chromo, is prepared in advance, for example by screen printing, lithography or chromolithography, on a transfer paper. Chromo consists of a colored film deposited on a transfer paper, one side of which is intended to come into contact with the first surface 111 of the substrate 11 during transfer.

[0097] The film consists of enamel powder mixed with a polymer that causes the film to coalesce, and may be transferred (or moved or placed) from the transfer paper onto the first surface of the substrate to produce the decoration.

[0098] For example, chromo is applied by wetting in water to separate the film from the transfer paper before or after application of the film onto the substrate (depending on whether the pattern to be transferred is on the front or back). The water and any air bubbles found between the substrate and the film are then expelled, for example, using an elastomeric wiper. The substrate is then allowed to dry, preferably air-dried.

[0099] Finally, the substrate on which the film is deposited is sintered. The film consists of enamel powder mixed with a polymer, and the curing serves, on the one hand, to remove the polymer and, on the other hand, to vitrify the enamel. The curing can be carried out in an oven in open air at high temperatures. The vitrification heat treatment is typically obtained at temperatures above 500°C, preferably above 750°C, for a duration of several minutes, typically 15 minutes. Following this step, the substrate is decorated with a colored enamel layer.

[0100] The coefficient of thermal expansion of the enamel used in chromo must match, closely approximate, or be compatible with that of the substrate to ensure adequate retention (adhesion) and aesthetics (i.e., no cracks, crazing, or flaking). Because layer 12 is very thin, the tolerance for differences in the coefficient of thermal expansion between layer 12 and substrate 11 is higher than when depositing thicker layers (e.g., deposited by conventional enameling). Thus, in the case of chromo, differences of up to 5%, even 10%, even 15%, even 20%, or even 25% can be expected. After curing, the chromo layer typically has a thickness of the order of 5 to 20 μm, even 7 to 10 μm (which corresponds to a thickness of 40 to 80 μm in the unprocessed state). This is why it is considered thin compared to conventional enamel deposits, which are considered thick (typically over 100 μm, even over 200 μm, even over 300 μm after hardening). The use of such thin chromo is made possible by the fact that the color of chromo is more saturated than the color of conventionally deposited enamel, given the same thickness.

[0101] Alternatively, the enamel may be deposited by pad printing or direct screen printing type transfer to produce the decoration. Alternatively, the enamel may also be deposited in a conventional manner, for example with a brush.

[0102] Depending on the desired appearance, the step of producing the first layer may be repeated. The first layer of enamel that constitutes the decoration, in particular the colored decoration, may therefore be a multi-layer structure of enamel. In the second step, hardening is preferably carried out between each application of a layer of enamel onto the substrate 11, in particular onto the first surface 111 of the substrate 11, or onto the layer that has just been applied. Alternatively, in the second step, a single hardening operation may be carried out after all layers of enamel have been applied.

[0103] In an optional third step, a second layer 13 is applied. The second layer is preferably a finishing, backing, or opacifying layer. The second layer is at least translucent, and ideally opaque. The second layer is preferably a uniform white and / or opaque layer of enamel. The second layer at least partially covers the decoration provided by the first layer provided during the second step.

[0104] As in the second step, after application of the second layer, hardening is carried out, which leads to vitrification of the enamel and, if the second layer enamel is formed using chromo, to removal of the polymer.

[0105] The coefficient of thermal expansion of the enamel used for the second layer 13 must match or be very close or compatible with the coefficient of thermal expansion of the layer on which it is deposited, for the reasons mentioned above. The combination of thin layers 12 and 13 allows for a greater tolerance for the difference in the coefficient of thermal expansion between these layers and the substrate 11 than in the case of depositing thicker layers, thus offering greater possibilities in terms of adhesion and aesthetics.

[0106] The second or finishing layer 13 is applied in a second step, as was the decoration, preferably by means of a transfer, in particular by means of a chromo decal.

[0107] Alternatively, the second layer 13 can be applied by other techniques (pad printing, brush, screen printing, etc.) as well.

[0108] This third step may be implemented in different variants as follows: - The second layer may be of any color. Any enamel color is possible. The color of the second layer may vary depending on the location on the decoration and / or substrate where it is applied. The opacity of the second layer may vary. Depending on the nature of the finish layer or layers, various levels of opacity are expected, ranging from semi-transparent to completely opaque. Depending on where the finish layer is applied on the decoration and / or substrate, the target opacity may also differ. The chemical nature of the finish may also vary. Any kind of inorganic material can be envisaged, meeting the criteria of opacity and resistance to environmental stress. The chemical nature of the finish may also vary depending on where it is applied on the decoration. For example: * Enamels to which luminescent zirconia powder or other luminescent minerals have been added, or * Metallized, or * metal-based layers, especially nitrides, deposited for example by PVD (physical vapor deposition), CVD (chemical vapor deposition), ALD (atomic layer deposition), PLD (pulsed laser deposition) or other suitable methods; can be used as a finishing layer. The application method of the finishing layer may therefore be by transfer, brush, screen printing, PVD, CVD, ALD, PLD, etc., depending on the nature of the layer, its thickness and the desired level of precision (in terms of location, thickness, distribution, etc.). A finishing layer is positioned over at least part of the area decorated during the second step. The distribution of the finish layer may vary across the first surface 111 . * The finishing layer may be positioned only over the areas that were decorated during the second step, in which case the finishing layer may be applied over all or part of the decoration. * The finishing layer may additionally be positioned over the areas that were not decorated during the second step, in which case the finishing layer may be on part or all of the non-decorated areas. - The thickness of the finish layer may vary. *The thickness may define its level of opacity, which is selected depending on where it is applied. The thickness may adjust the color tone resulting from the stacking of the first and second layers 12 and 13 .

[0109] Depending on how the method is carried out, the application of the second layer may be: - applying a layer of enamel, in particular by means of transfer, in particular by means of chromodecals, and / or - application of metal-based layers, in particular by PVD, CVD, ALD, PLD, and / or - applying other layers of coating, such as paint, may be.

[0110] Many variants are possible: in particular, one or more recesses may be formed on the first surface 111 of the watch part and / or one or more recesses may be formed on the second surface 112 of the watch part.

[0111] One or more recesses on the first surface and / or on the second surface may be formed before the second and / or third steps described above; and / or One or more recesses on the first surface and / or on the second surface may be formed during the second and / or third steps described above; and / or One or more recesses on the first surface and / or on the second surface may be formed after the second and third steps described above.

[0112] After hardening of the first layer, a recess is formed at the level of the first surface, the recess being: - only part of the thickness of the first layer, or - the entire thickness of the first layer, or the entire thickness of the first layer and part of the thickness of the substrate 11; may affect the

[0113] After the production of the first and second layers, a recess is produced at the level of the first surface, the recess being - only part of the thickness of the second layer, or - the entire thickness of the second layer, or - the entire thickness of the second layer and part of the thickness of the first layer, or - all of the thickness of the second layer and all of the thickness of the first layer, or the entire thickness of the second layer, the entire thickness of the first layer and part of the thickness of the substrate 11; may affect the

[0114] Thus, depending on the variant embodiment, at least one first recess 14, in particular at least one recess 14 produced by laser processing, may be produced on the first surface 111 and / or at least one second recess 15, in particular at least one second recess 15 produced by laser processing, may be produced on the second surface 112. The method preferably comprises a step of coating the at least one first recess 14 and / or the at least one recess 15, in particular with a metal-based layer, in particular with a metal-based laser deposited by PVD, CVD, ALD or PLD.

[0115] Of course, the recesses may have any shape or form.

[0116] In particular, the thickness of the material machined to form the recesses may be the same regardless of the location of the recesses, so that the depth of the recesses is constant; from the surface in which the recess is to be formed (which may be the lower surface 111, such as surface 112, or the surface of layer 12 or 13), - a surface defining the bottom of the recess, may be the same and correspond to the depth of the recess, regardless of location within the recess.

[0117] Alternatively, the depth of the recess may evolve, i.e. vary with the location or locations within the recess concerned. In particular, the height (or depth) of the sides or walls defining the contour of the recess may evolve and thus may not be constant. Furthermore, the surface defining the bottom of the recess may thus not be parallel to the surface in which the recess is formed.

[0118] The sides or walls may also be at an oblique angle (constant or variable) relative to, for example, the surface in which the recess is formed and / or the surface defining the bottom of the recess. - the direction in which the recess is formed; - normal to the surface on which the recess is formed, The angle between and can be any angle, allowing for any kind of design.

[0119] More generally, a surface in which the recess is to be formed (which may be a lower surface 111, such as surface 112, or a surface of layer 12 or 13); - a surface defining the bottom of the recess, The area of ​​material machined or removed by cutting at any level of a plane perpendicular to the direction in which the recesses are formed, located between the surface on which the recesses are formed and the surface defining the bottom of the recesses, may or may not be constant, depending on the location of the plane between the surface on which the recesses are formed and the surface defining the bottom of the recesses. In other words, the area of ​​material removed by cutting at any level of a plane perpendicular to the direction in which the recesses are formed, located between the surface on which the recesses are formed and the surface defining the bottom of the recesses, may evolve depending on the direction in which the recesses are formed. Furthermore, the area of ​​material removed by cutting at any level of a plane parallel to the direction in which the recesses are formed may be constant or may vary. In other words, the area of ​​material removed by cutting at any level of a plane parallel to the direction in which the recesses are formed may evolve in a direction orthogonal to the direction in which the recesses are formed.

[0120] The area of ​​material removed by ablation is measured on the millimeter scale (e.g., 1 mm 2 from 15mm 2 between 1 μm and 2 μm), and micrometer scale (e.g., 1 μm2 to 15 μm 2 between 1 μm and 2 μm, 2 The area of ​​material removed by ablation may be any area smaller than the surface in one dimension. - in millimeters (0.5 mm to 10 mm, or even 1 mm to 5 mm), or - micrometer (0.5 μm to 200 μm, even 1 μm to 50 μm), or - nanometer (50 nm to 500 nm, even 200 nm to 400 nm), In other words, the recess may have a millimetre or micrometre or nanometre area, in particular in the height of the surface defining the bottom of the recess and / or in the height of the surface in which the recess is formed.

[0121] These variations may be combined to create different visual effects, particularly to form tints and color gradients.

[0122] Additionally, such machining or cutting removal may be performed on chromium added before or after curing.

[0123] Below, - Glass, - Two-tone bezel, and - Two-tone bezel with metallized recesses The following examples will be described in detail with respect to the production of the above.

[0124] The first embodiment relates to the production of a miniature watch glass, notably made of sapphire and featuring two shades of red.

[0125] The first step consists in obtaining a small watch crystal, for example made of sapphire, whose lower surface 111 and / or upper surface 112 are for example flat.

[0126] The second step consists in producing the decoration (first layer 12). In this step, a red chromo is obtained (previously prepared, inter alia, by screen printing of a colored enamel onto a transfer paper). The colored enamel film is separated from the transfer paper by immersion in deionized water. This film is then applied to the lower surface 111 of the watch glass (the surface intended to be placed inside the watch case). The watch glass is then cured in an oven at 800°C for 15 minutes. As the temperature rise rate is high (approximately 30 minutes) and the cooling is carried out over a similar duration, the duration of the complete heat treatment allowing the enamel to vitrify is less than 1.5 hours.

[0127] The third step consists in producing the finishing layer (second layer 13). In this third step, a layer of white opaque enamel is applied to part of the decorative layer already deposited during the second step. The finishing layer is, for example, a layer of enamel applied using chromo in the same way as the decoration was applied during the second step. This is typically followed by hardening of the small watch glass in an oven at 800°C for 15 minutes. Since the temperature rise rate is high (about 30 minutes) and the cooling is carried out over a similar duration, the duration of the complete heat treatment allowing the enamel to vitrify is less than 1.5 hours.

[0128] After that, small watch glasses are obtained, characterized by the following two shades of red: - in places where only red enamel has been applied, a primary shade of red (translucent red); the appearance is translucent and light; in places where this part of the decoration is visible through the glass; and - A second shade of red (opaque red) where a finishing layer of opaque white enamel is deposited on the red enamel. The appearance is red, more saturated and opaque. In this place it is not possible to see through the glass.

[0129] This makes it possible to offer a wide variety of decorations, such as small watch crystals that, manufactured according to this same principle, have high-quality translucent or transparent decoration in some areas and high-quality opaque decoration in others, for example constituting symbols, graduations or hour markers.

[0130] The second example relates to the manufacture of a bezel disc made of two-tone red and black sapphire.

[0131] In a first step, a sapphire bezel disc is obtained with a mirror-polished surface. The upper surface 112 (which is seen directly by the user when the disc is placed in a watch) is, for example, dome-shaped. The lower surface 111 (which is seen indirectly by the user when the disc is placed in a watch, i.e., through the substrate) is, for example, flat.

[0132] In the second step, the decoration is produced by applying the first layers. To this end, chromo (previously prepared by screen printing, among other things, enamel, one black and one red, onto transfer paper) is obtained to produce the areas intended for black and red. The chromo is then separated from the transfer paper by immersion in deionized water. These films are then placed on the lower surface 111. The black film is placed over half of the lower surface of the sapphire disk, and the red film is placed over the other half. Then, curing is carried out in an oven at 800 °C for 15 minutes. Because the temperature ramp-up is fast (about 30 minutes) and the cooling time is comparable, the duration of the complete heat treatment, allowing the enamel to vitrify, is less than 1.5 hours. Alternatively, a single chromo containing both black and red areas can be used.

[0133] One or more markers may be manufactured on the substrate to aid in the placement of the chromo film on the first surface 111. The marker or markers may advantageously be placed on the first surface or a surface adjacent to the first surface. The marker or markers may advantageously consist of a material that disappears during vitrification of the enamel.

[0134] In the third step, the finish layer is produced. For this, a layer of white opaque enamel is applied over the entire area already enamelled in the second step. The finish layer is also obtained using chromo and is applied in the same manner as the decoration in the second step. The resulting lower surface 111, seen through the substrate, has a first half in opaque red and a second half in opaque black.

[0135] The bezel disc with the opaque decoration may then be mounted in a steel ring to form the bezel, the technical parts of which may be highlighted by areas on the lower surface 111 of the disc that remain transparent after the decoration has been produced.

[0136] The third example relates to the fabrication of a two-tone red and black sapphire bezel disc with metallized recesses.

[0137] The decoration of the disc obtained in the second embodiment described above may be continued to obtain a third embodiment including metallized recesses or engravings.

[0138] The disk obtained by the method described in the second embodiment is used.

[0139] The upper surface 112 is then coated with a protective resin.

[0140] Thereafter, recesses are produced on the upper surface 112 through the resin, in particular using a femtosecond laser.

[0141] A metal coating, notably platinum, is then deposited on the upper surface by PVD (physical vapor deposition).

[0142] The layer of resin is then dissolved, so that the metal coating remains only on the bottom of the recess.

[0143] A sapphire disk is obtained with a saturated, opaque color and a two-tone appearance. The etched symbols (consisting of recesses) on the top surface 112 have a metallic appearance due to physical vapor deposition.

[0144] As in the second embodiment, the bezel disc may then be mounted within a steel ring to form the bezel, optionally with technical parts of the bezel exposed by areas that remain transparent after the decoration has been produced on the lower surface.

[0145] As a result of the solution described, thanks to the proposed innovative configuration, both the advantages of the chromo decoration and the advantages of the sapphire substrate can be obtained in a synergistic manner.

[0146] Due to the wide range of available enamel colors, chromo decoration offers aesthetic benefits without design limitations (except that the chromo resolution must be taken into account; for example, when produced by screen printing, the resolution is that of the mesh of the selected frame). Enamels deposited using chromo technology have very good adhesion. Nevertheless, it is necessary to match the thermal expansion coefficient of the enamel with that of the substrate. Enamels offer the advantage of good resistance to thermal shock, UV rays, humidity (including in combination with high temperatures), and chemicals, as well as ensuring usability of the manufactured parts over a wide temperature range. Chromo is not limited to flat surfaces. In fact, films can be deposited on surfaces with relief (for example, suitable for disks with frustoconical or domed surfaces). Because the film is a coherent object (unlike traditional enamels, which are deposited in liquid form and therefore require lateral surfaces to hold the enamel in place), chromo is not limited to surfaces bounded by lateral faces. Chromo deposition is more reproducible and automatable than traditional enameling with a brush, making it possible to achieve high quality in serial production.

[0147] The preferred material for manufacturing the substrate 11 is sapphire. Sapphire has a very high hardness, in fact, and therefore a good resistance to scratches. In the application of watch components, the fact that the upper surface 112 of the component (the surface that may be exposed to mechanical attacks) is made of sapphire makes it possible to provide a solution at least equivalent to current ceramic solutions. In fact, the hardness of sapphire is comparable to that of polycrystalline alumina, which is used to manufacture some components, and higher than that of zirconia, which is used to manufacture other components.

[0148] Furthermore, sapphire has a good fracture stress. When manufacturing a watch component, the fact that the upper surface 112 of the component is made of sapphire makes it possible to provide a solution at least equivalent to currently known solutions. In fact, on average, the fracture stress of sapphire has a value of about 1700 MPa along axis A and about 3500 MPa along axis C, which is greater than the fracture stress of zirconia (about 1300 MPa), which in turn is greater than the fracture stress of polycrystalline alumina (about 500 MPa).

[0149] The combination of sapphire and chromo in the proposed innovative configuration offers new advantages (application of chromo to the surface visible through the substrate, allowing the use of an opacifying finish layer). - The proposed solution, combining sapphire with enamel decoration, is completely inorganic and therefore does not require sealing of the decoration, is not decomposed by UV rays, humidity (even in combination with high temperatures), chemicals, over a very wide temperature range, and is resistant to wear. - the decoration has a distance from the upper surface 112 of the substrate that is directly visible to the user (the decoration is below the sapphire), resulting in a profound aesthetic and visual impact from this arrangement, which can be further amplified by rounded recessed or domed protruding shapes on the surface of the substrate that is directly visible to the user. - The design allows for the superposition of treatments and effects, e.g. * A treatment, especially an anti-reflective treatment, may be applied to the upper surface 112 of the sapphire; and / or * Recesses may be formed on the top surface 112 and / or bottom surface 111 of the sapphire. - The color of the color layer and its location allow for selection of aesthetic effects. The level of transparency and aesthetic effect can be varied by adding opacity and colour to the finish layer and its position can be changed. An opaque layer can be applied for a masking function.

[0150] The solution is highly favorable from an industrial point of view, in the sense that it makes it possible to obtain a high production quality due to the reproducibility of the manufacturing method for the watch component.

[0151] In particular, the above-described solution allows for the treatment of the upper surface 112 of the sapphire after the steps of obtaining the substrate, applying the first layer, and applying the second layer have been carried out. The transparency of the substrate can be utilized to perform this treatment, which allows for the positioning of the treatment on the upper surface 112 with reference to the decoration produced on the lower surface 111. This allows for the positioning of the treatment on the upper surface by observing / recognizing the shape of the decoration. This allows for the production of one or more recesses on the upper surface 112 at precise positions relative to the enamel decoration previously produced on the lower surface 111 of the watch component, i.e., using the decoration formed by the first layer of enamel as a marker, in particular as a machining marker. Conversely, it is possible to produce an enamel decoration on the lower surface 111 of the watch component at precise positions relative to the one or more recesses previously produced on the upper surface 112, i.e., using the one or more recesses formed by the first layer of enamel as a marker.

[0152] The above solution makes it possible to easily manufacture a large number of variations of the component: in fact, starting from a series of identical substrates 11, it is possible to obtain in the end watch components with very different appearances, depending on the options adopted for manufacturing the first and second layers.

[0153] In summary, to obtain decorative, durable timepiece parts with unlimited variations in the choice of graphic elements, patterns, shapes and colors, or combinations thereof, and of any spatial distribution (i.e., no design limitations), it is proposed to produce a first layer of enamel on a partially transparent or transparent substrate, said first layer of enamel being intended to be seen through the substrate. The first layer of enamel may be produced by means of transfer, in particular by means of chromodecals, and / or the first layer of enamel may be at least partially covered by a second opacifying layer, in particular a white second opacifying layer.

[0154] As used herein, "using a transfer" refers to any method that allows the transfer (or transfer or placement) of enamel onto the surface to be enameled according to a pre-established design, i.e., a design that has already been constructed prior to the transfer (or transfer or placement). - Pad printing, or - Direct screen printing, or - programmed deposition by inkjet printing, may include: If the question is to transfer a film (enamel powder mixed with polymer) from a transfer paper onto the surface to be enameled, the transfer may be a decal, especially a waterslide decal.

[0155] This results in the inverse use of chromotype enameling, with the use of a second opacifying layer to cooperate with the first layer to participate in the creation of the decoration. - viewing the first layer, optionally formed by the use of chromo, through the substrate; and Optionally, the second layer is viewed through the substrate and the first layer.

[0156] In the case of the prior art use of chromo, the result is completely different: in fact, the user usually sees the decoration through a layer of non-pigmented and transparent enamel (covering) that covers and protects the decoration, the enamel being applied onto an opaque substrate.

Claims

1. a substrate (11) made of an at least partially transparent material; a first layer of colored enamel (12) applied to said substrate (11) by means of transfer, in particular by means of ChromoDecal, Including, Watch parts (1).

2. said watch part (1) comprises a second finishing layer (13), in particular a second opacifying finishing layer (13), applied at least partially onto said layer (12) of colored enamel; A watch component (1) according to claim 1.

3. the substrate is made of an inorganic material, such as technical ceramic, quartz, spinel, magnesium aluminate, AlON, YAG, cubic zirconia, mineral glass, polycrystalline alumina, glass ceramic, single crystal alumina, and / or the substrate has, at least locally, a real in-line transmittance for light of a wavelength of 550 nm of more than 60%, or more than 70%, or more than 80%, or more than 85%; A watch component (1) according to claim 1 or 2.

4. the substrate has a hardness of greater than 800 Hv or greater than 1000 Hv; A watch component (1) according to any one of claims 1 to 3.

5. The second finish layer comprises: a layer of enamel, in particular a layer of enamel applied by means of transfer, and / or Metal-based layers deposited by PVD, CVD, ALD, PLD, among others, and / or other coating layers, such as paint, That is, A watch component (1) according to any one of claims 1 to 4 and claim 2.

6. The watch component (1) is, in particular, Glass, Back cover, Bezel disc, Wristband elements, or Torso, The outer casing part of the watch (100) is Or the watch component (1) is, in particular, dial, flange, or A disk that displays clock information, These are internal parts of the watch (100): A watch component (1) according to any one of claims 1 to 5.

7. the substrate (11) comprises a first surface (111) and a second surface (112), in particular a second surface (112) parallel or substantially parallel to the first surface (111); said first layer (12) and / or said second layer (13) is applied onto said first surface (111); the first surface (111), and in particular the first and / or second layer applied thereon, are visible through the second surface (112) and the substrate (11); A watch component (1) according to any one of claims 1 to 6.

8. the substrate (11) comprises at least one second recess (15) fabricated on the second surface (112), in particular at least one second recess (15) fabricated by laser machining; A watch component (1) according to claim 7.

9. the at least one second recess (15) is coated, in particular coated with a metal-based layer, in particular coated with a metal-based layer deposited by PVD, CVD, ALD or PLD, A watch component (1) according to claim 8.

10. the substrate (11) has an anti-reflection treatment on the second surface (112); A watch component (1) according to any one of claims 7 to 9.

11. the substrate (11) comprises at least one first recess (14) produced on the first surface (111) after application of the first and second layers, in particular at least one first recess (14) produced by laser processing, A watch component (1) according to any one of claims 1 to 10 and claim 7.

12. the at least one first recess (14) is coated, in particular coated with a metal-based layer, in particular coated with a metal-based layer deposited by PVD, CVD, ALD or PLD, A watch component (1) according to claim 11.

13. The at least one first recess (14) is formed such that the area of ​​material removed by cutting at the height of a plane perpendicular to the direction in which the at least one first recess is formed is: the surface in which the at least one first recess is formed, in particular the lower surface (111) or the surface of the first layer (12) or the surface of the second layer (13); a surface defining the bottom of the at least one first recess; and extending in the direction in which the at least one first recess is formed. and / or the area of ​​material removed by cutting at the height of any plane parallel to the direction in which the at least one first recess is formed extends in a direction orthogonal to the direction in which the at least one first recess is formed. A watch component (1) according to claim 11 or 12.

14. the at least one first recess (14) has an area on the scale of millimeters, micrometers or nanometers, in particular at the height of the surface defining the bottom of the recess and / or at the height of the surface in which the recess is formed, A watch component (1) according to any one of claims 11 to 13.

15. A method for manufacturing a watch component (1), comprising: Obtaining a substrate (11) made of an at least partially transparent material, and applying a first layer of colored enamel (12) onto said substrate (11) by means of transfer, in particular by means of ChromoDecal, Including steps, Manufacturing method.

16. The method comprises applying, at least partially, a second finishing layer (13), in particular a second opacifying finishing layer (13), onto the layer (12) of colored enamel, 16. The method of claim 15.

17. said applying said second layer comprising: application of a layer of enamel, in particular by means of transfer, in particular by means of chromodecal, and / or application of metal-based layers, especially by PVD, CVD, ALD, PLD, and / or application of other coating layers, such as paint; That is, The method of claim 16.

18. the manufacturing method comprises the step of producing at least one first recess (14) on a first surface (111) of the substrate (11), in particular the at least one first recess (14) produced by laser processing, and / or the manufacturing method comprises the step of producing at least one second recess (15) on a second surface (112) of the substrate (11), in particular the at least one second recess (15) produced by laser processing, The method of any one of claims 15 to 17.

19. the step of producing at least one first recess and / or the step of producing at least one second recess is carried out after the step of applying the layer of enamel (12) onto the substrate (11), and during the step of producing at least one first recess and / or the step of producing at least one second recess, the decoration formed by the layer of enamel is used as a marker, in particular as a machining marker. The method of claim 18.

20. the method comprises a step of coating the at least one first recess (14) and / or the at least one second recess (15) with a metal-based layer, in particular a metal-based layer deposited by PVD, CVD, ALD or PLD, The method of claim 18 or 19.

21. A watch (100) comprising a watch part (1) according to any one of claims 1 to 14, in particular a watch part (1) according to any one of claims 7 to 14, arranged so that the wearer of the watch (100) can see the first surface (111), in particular the first layer (12) and / or the second layer (13), through the second surface (112) and the substrate (11).

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