Improved straightening method for keratin fibers

Abstract

The present invention relates to a method for straightening keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising the steps of: (i) applying a composition onto the keratinous fibers; (ii) optionally rinsing the keratinous fibers, with or without drying the keratinous fibers after rinsing; and (iii) straightening the keratinous fibers at a temperature above 50°C, preferably above 100°C, more preferably above 150°C, wherein the composition comprises: (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylates, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides, and mixtures thereof; (b) at least one betaine compound; and (c) water. The present invention can improve the method for straightening keratinous fibers such as hair by providing a long-lasting straightening effect based on heating the keratinous fibers with glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof.

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a method, in particular a cosmetic method, for straightening keratinous fibers such as hair. [Background technology]

[0002] Straightening keratinous fibers, such as hair, by heating them with an iron is popular for making unruly keratinous fibers more manageable, reducing the volume of the keratinous fibers, and making them appear more desirable. While such straightening methods using heated irons are convenient for instant styling, the style only lasts for a short time, for example, until the next hair wash. Many consumers need a method for straightening their hair that lasts longer.

[0003] On the other hand, conventional permanent hair straightening methods using reducing and alkaline agents and oxidizing agents and heating can provide keratin fibers with a long-lasting style, but have several drawbacks, such as long processing times, damage to keratin fibers, and unpleasant odors.

[0004] WO2014 / 131469 discloses a method for straightening keratin fibers by heating with an iron without using a reducing agent or an oxidizing agent, in which glyoxylic acid is used to straighten the keratin fibers. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0005] [Patent Document 1] WO2014 / 131469 [Patent Document 2] European Patent Application No. 0354835 [Patent Document 3] European Patent Application No. 0368763 [Patent Document 4] European Patent Application No. 0432000 [Patent Document 5] European Patent Application No. 0514282 [Patent Document 6] French Patent Application No. 2679448 Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0006] There remains a need for improved straightening of keratinous fibers based on heating the fibers with glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof.

[0007] It is an object of the present invention to provide an improved method for straightening keratinous fibers, such as hair, based on heating the keratinous fibers with glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof, which method is capable of providing a longer-lasting straightening effect on the keratinous fibers. [Means for solving the problem]

[0008] The object of the present invention is to provide a method for straightening keratin fibers, such as hair, comprising: (i) applying a composition onto keratinous fibers; (ii) optionally rinsing the keratinous fibers, with or without drying the keratinous fibers after rinsing; (iii) straightening the keratin fibers at a temperature above 50°C, preferably above 100°C, more preferably above 150°C; wherein the composition comprises: (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylates, glyoxylate esters, glyoxylate amides, and mixtures thereof; (b) at least one betaine compound; (c) Water and This can be achieved by a method comprising:

[0009] Preferably, the composition is applied onto wet keratinous fibers.

[0010] The pH of the composition may be 7 or less, preferably 6 or less, more preferably 5 or less.

[0011] The amount of the (a) compound in the composition may be 0.1% to 50% by mass, preferably 0.5% to 40% by mass, and more preferably 1% to 30% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0012] (b) The betaine compound may be selected from the group consisting of trimethylglycine, carnitine, and L-proline betaine or stachydrine, and mixtures thereof.

[0013] The amount of (b) the betaine compound in the composition may be 0.01% by mass to 15% by mass, preferably 0.05% by mass to 10% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% by mass to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0014] The amount of (c) water in the composition may be 20% by mass to 99% by mass, preferably 30% by mass to 95% by mass, and more preferably 40% by mass to 90% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0015] The composition may further comprise (d) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of keto acids, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, different from the (a) compound.

[0016] The (d) compound may be selected from levulinic acid, its salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0017] The amount of the (d) compound in the composition may be 0.1% by mass to 15% by mass, preferably 0.5% by mass to 10% by mass, and more preferably 1% by mass to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0018] The composition may contain no ammonia or thiol compounds or may contain less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, more preferably less than 0.1% by weight of ammonia or thiol compounds relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0019] The composition may contain no reducing or oxidizing agents or may contain less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, more preferably less than 0.1% by weight of reducing or oxidizing agents relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0020] The present invention also provides a composition for straightening keratinous fibers, such as hair, by heating, comprising: (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylates, glyoxylate esters, glyoxylate amides, and mixtures thereof; (b) at least one betaine compound; (c) Water and The present invention also relates to a composition comprising:

[0021] The present invention also provides a kit for straightening keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising: at least one heater, preferably a heating iron, capable of bringing temperatures above 50°C, preferably above 100°C, more preferably above 150°C, to the keratin fibers; (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylates, glyoxylate esters, glyoxylate amides, and mixtures thereof; (b) at least one betaine compound; (c) Water and At least one composition comprising The present invention also relates to a kit comprising:

[0022] The present invention also provides a method for producing a composition comprising (b) at least one betaine compound, (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylates, glyoxylate esters, glyoxylate amides, and mixtures thereof; (c) Water and 1. Use in a composition for straightening keratinous fibers such as hair by heating, comprising: The present invention also relates to uses for prolonging the straightening effect of the composition on keratinous fibers, in particular for the purpose of further maintaining the straight shape of keratinous fibers or preventing or reducing wavy keratinous fibers. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0023] After extensive investigation, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide an improved method for straightening keratinous fibers, such as hair, based on heating the keratinous fibers with glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof, which method is capable of providing a longer-lasting straightening effect on the keratinous fibers.

[0024] Therefore, the present invention primarily relates to a method for straightening keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising: (i) applying a composition onto keratinous fibers; (ii) optionally rinsing the keratinous fibers, with or without drying the keratinous fibers after rinsing; (iii) straightening the keratin fibers at a temperature above 50°C, preferably above 100°C, more preferably above 150°C; wherein the composition comprises: (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylates, glyoxylate esters, glyoxylate amides, and mixtures thereof; (b) at least one betaine compound; (c) Water and The present invention relates to a method, comprising:

[0025] The present invention provides an improved method for straightening keratinous fibers, such as hair, by providing a longer-lasting straightening effect based on heating the keratinous fibers with glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof.

[0026] The present invention can provide a longer-lasting straightening effect to keratinous fibers, such as hair. Thus, the present invention can extend or prolong the straightening effect on keratinous fibers that is achieved by using a composition containing only glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof. In particular, the present invention can further maintain the straight shape of keratinous fibers or prevent or reduce the loss of the straight shape of keratinous fibers over time.

[0027] For example, if the keratin fibers are originally wavy, the present invention can better prevent the keratin fibers from returning to their original wavy shape after straightening them, especially after washing.

[0028] In the present invention, the use of at least one betaine compound can prolong or sustain the straightening effect on keratin fibers brought about by glyoxylic acid or its derivatives. In particular, the use of at least one betaine compound can further maintain the straight shape of keratin fibers brought about by glyoxylic acid or its derivatives, or can prevent or reduce wavy keratin fibers.

[0029] The present invention can also impart a sufficiently immediate straightening effect to keratinous fibers. Therefore, keratinous fibers treated with the present invention can reduce volume or frizz due to reduced curling of the keratinous fibers. The straightening effect provided by the present invention can last for a long time, for example, even after washing the keratinous fibers. Therefore, the present invention can also provide a keratinous fiber shape that is resistant to washing.

[0030] The present invention does not require the use of any reducing / oxidizing agents, and therefore can result in less damage to keratinous fibers compared to conventional hair straightening methods. Therefore, keratinous fibers treated by the present invention can be easily combed. Therefore, keratinous fibers treated by the present invention can be easily handled. In addition, keratinous fibers treated by the present invention can be stronger than those treated by conventional hair straightening methods.

[0031] In addition, the present invention can use no or very little ammonia or thiol compounds, and therefore can reduce odor during use of the present invention compared to conventional methods that require the use of ammonia or thiol compounds.The present invention also allows for good ease of use, for example, a short processing time.

[0032] The present invention will be described in detail below.

[0033] [method] The present invention relates to a method for straightening keratinous fibers, preferably hair, comprising the steps of: (i) applying a composition onto keratinous fibers; (ii) optionally rinsing the keratinous fibers, with or without drying the keratinous fibers after rinsing; (iii) straightening the keratin fibers at a temperature above 50°C, preferably above 100°C, more preferably above 150°C; wherein the composition comprises: (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylates, glyoxylate esters, glyoxylate amides, and mixtures thereof; (b) at least one betaine compound; (c) Water and The present invention relates to a method, comprising:

[0034] Details of the compositions used in the methods of the present invention are set forth below in the section entitled "Compositions."

[0035] The method according to the present invention aims to straighten keratinous fibers such as hair, preferably for a long period of time, and more preferably to keep the hair straight even after several washings. In this sense, the method according to the present invention can be considered a semi-permanent hair straightening method.

[0036] The keratinous fibers are preferably washed prior to step (i). This washing step can be carried out, for example, by washing the keratinous fibers with shampoo and then rinsing the keratinous fibers. After rinsing, the keratinous fibers may be dried. The keratinous fibers are preferably wet immediately prior to step (i).

[0037] In step (i), the composition described below is applied to keratinous fibers such as hair. Application of the composition can be carried out by any means, such as by using a brush or comb.

[0038] The liquor ratio of the applied composition to the keratinous fibers may range from 0.1 to 10, more preferably from 0.5 to 5, preferably between 0.3 and 2. The term "liquor ratio" is intended to mean the mass ratio between the total mass of the applied composition and the total mass of the keratinous fibers.

[0039] After application of the composition, the keratinous fibers may be left undisturbed for a certain length of time, typically from 1 minute to 1 hour, preferably 2 to 30 minutes, more preferably 3 to 10 minutes, if necessary, to allow the composition to penetrate into the keratinous fibers.

[0040] After step (i), the method according to the invention may comprise an optional step (ii) of rinsing the keratinous fibers, with or without drying the keratinous fibers after rinsing.

[0041] Therefore, if step (ii) is present, the keratinous fibers are rinsed to remove the composition from the keratinous fibers. The rinsing step may be carried out using water. The keratinous fibers are preferably dried after rinsing. Drying of the keratinous fibers can be carried out using conventional drying means such as a hair dryer.

[0042] On the other hand, if step (ii) is not present, after step (i) the keratinous fibers can be treated with step (iii) without rinsing.

[0043] In step (iii), the keratinous fibers, which are preferably dry, are subjected to straightening using a heater, preferably a heating iron, at a temperature above 50° C., preferably above 100° C., more preferably above 150° C. This temperature may be below 250° C., preferably below 240° C., more preferably below 230° C. Thus, the temperature may be above 50° C. and below 250° C., preferably above 100° C. and below 240° C., more preferably above 150° C. and below 230° C.

[0044] The heating iron may be any conventional heating iron. The heating iron may have at least one plate, preferably two plates, which may be heated, for example, by electric heating. The heated plate is applied to the keratin fibers and moved along the direction of the keratin fibers to straighten the keratin fibers.

[0045] The heating iron preferably has two plates, and the keratin fibers are sandwiched between the two plates of the heating iron, at least one of which can be heated, and then the two plates are moved along the direction of the keratin fibers to straighten the keratin fibers.

[0046] Preferably, the heating iron, and in particular the part thereof (such as one or more heating plates) that comes into contact with the keratinous fibers, has a temperature above 50°C and below 250°C, more preferably above 100°C and below 240°C, even more preferably above 150°C and below 230°C.

[0047] Step (iii) can be carried out by one or more strokes of the heating iron moving along the direction of the keratin fibers, and step (iii) can be controlled not only by the temperature of the heating iron but also by the number of strokes of the heating iron.

[0048] The heating time may depend on the temperature of the heating iron, but also on the number of strokes of the heating iron, and may be, for example, from 1 second to 10 minutes, preferably from a few seconds to 5 minutes.

[0049] [Composition] The composition used in the method according to the invention or for straightening keratinous fibers according to the invention comprises: (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylates, glyoxylate esters, glyoxylate amides, and mixtures thereof; (b) at least one betaine compound; (c) Water and Includes.

[0050] The composition is preferably a cosmetic composition, more preferably a cosmetic composition for straightening keratinous fibers, even more preferably a cosmetic composition for straightening keratinous fibers in one step. It is particularly preferred that the keratinous fibers are hair.

[0051] (Glyoxylic acid and its derivatives) The composition used in the present invention comprises (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylates, glyoxylate esters, glyoxylate amides, and mixtures thereof.

[0052] A single type of (a) compound may be used, but two or more different types of (a) compounds may also be used in combination.

[0053] The (a) compound is selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylates, glyoxylate esters, glyoxylate amides, and mixtures thereof. In other words, the (a) compound is selected from glyoxylic acid and its derivatives.

[0054] Glyoxylic acid solvates include, for example, glyoxylic acid hydrates such as glyoxylic acid monohydrate.

[0055] Glyoxylates can include, for example, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts of glyoxylic acid, such as sodium or potassium glyoxylate and magnesium or calcium glyoxylate.

[0056] Examples of glyoxylic acid esters include alkyl glyoxylates such as methyl glyoxylate and ethyl glyoxylate.

[0057] Examples of glyoxylic acid amides include N-glyoxyloyl carbocysteine ​​and N-glyoxyloyl keratin amino acid.

[0058] It is preferred to use glyoxylic acid as the (a) compound.

[0059] The amount of the (a) compound in the composition used in the present invention may be 0.1% by mass or more, preferably 0.5% by mass or more, more preferably 1% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0060] On the other hand, the amount of the (a) compound in the composition used in the present invention may be 50% by mass or less, preferably 40% by mass or less, and more preferably 30% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0061] The amount of the (a) compound in the composition used in the present invention may be 0.1% by mass to 50% by mass, preferably 0.5% by mass to 40% by mass, and more preferably 1% by mass to 30% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0062] (betaine compounds) The composition used in the present invention contains at least one betaine compound (b). A single type of betaine compound (b) may be used, or two or more different types of betaine compounds (b) may be used in combination.

[0063] The term "betaine compound" as used herein means an amphoteric compound having a positively charged cationic moiety and a negatively charged anionic moiety, where no hydrogen atom is bonded to the positively charged atom of the positively charged cationic moiety and the positively charged cationic moiety cannot be adjacent to the negatively charged anionic moiety.

[0064] For purposes of this invention, the (b) betaine compounds herein are not surfactants that contain at least one hydrophilic moiety and at least one hydrophobic moiety.

[0065] The positively charged cationic moiety in the (b) betaine compound includes, but is not limited to, a quaternary ammonium cation, a phosphonium cation, and a sulfonium cation. Preferably, the (b) betaine compound includes a quaternary ammonium cation as the positively charged cationic moiety.

[0066] (b) Negatively charged anionic moieties in betaine compounds include, but are not limited to, carboxylate anions.

[0067] (b) The betaine compound may be selected from the group consisting of trimethylglycine, carnitine, L-proline betaine or stachydrine, and mixtures thereof, and may preferably be trimethylglycine.

[0068] The amount of the (b) betaine compound in the composition used in the present invention may be 0.01% by mass or more, preferably 0.05% by mass or more, more preferably 0.1% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition. It may be even more preferable that the amount of the (b) betaine compound in the composition used in the present invention is 0.2% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0069] On the other hand, the amount of (b) betaine compound in the composition used in the present invention may be 15% by mass or less, preferably 10% by mass or less, more preferably 5% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition. It may be even more preferable that the amount of (b) betaine compound in the composition used in the present invention is 3% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0070] The amount of (b) betaine compound in the composition used in the present invention may be in the range of 0.01% to 15% by mass, preferably 0.05% to 10% by mass, more preferably 0.1% to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition. It may even be more preferable that the amount of (b) betaine compound in the composition used in the present invention is 0.2% to 3% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0071] (water) The composition used in the present invention comprises (c) water.

[0072] Therefore, the compositions used in the present invention are not anhydrous.

[0073] The amount of (c) water in the composition used in the present invention may be 20% by mass or more, preferably 30% by mass or more, more preferably 40% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0074] On the other hand, the amount of (c) water in the composition used in the present invention may be 99% by mass or less, preferably 95% by mass or less, and more preferably 90% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0075] The amount of (c) water in the composition used in the present invention may be 20% by mass to 99% by mass, preferably 30% by mass to 95% by mass, and more preferably 40% by mass to 90% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0076] (keto acid) The composition for straightening keratin fibers used in the present invention may contain at least one compound selected from (d) keto acids, their salts, and mixtures thereof, which is different from the (a) compound. Two or more (d) compounds may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of (d) compound or a combination of different types of (d) compounds may be used.

[0077] The keto acid may be selected from α-keto acids, β-keto acids, γ-keto acids, and mixtures thereof.

[0078] The α-keto acids are represented by the general formula (I): R 1 -C(=O)-COOH (I) (In the formula, R 1 represents a linear or branched C1 to C6 alkyl group optionally substituted with OH, COOH, or a halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom).

[0079] An example of an alpha keto acid is pyruvic acid.

[0080] β-keto acids are represented by the general formula (II): R 2 -C(=O)-R 3 -COOH (II) (In the formula, R 2 represents a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, optionally substituted with OH, COOH, or a halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom, R 3 represents a methylene group optionally substituted with a halogen atom, such as a chlorine or bromine atom).

[0081] An example of a β-keto acid is acetoacetic acid.

[0082] γ-keto acids are represented by the general formula (III): R 2 -C(=O)-R 4 -COOH (III) (In the formula, R 2 represents a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, optionally substituted with OH, COOH, or a halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom, R 4 represents an ethylene group optionally substituted with a halogen atom, such as a chlorine or bromine atom).

[0083] An example of a γ-keto acid is levulinic acid.

[0084] The salts of the keto acids may be alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts of the keto acids, such as sodium or potassium keto acid salts, and magnesium or calcium keto acid salts.

[0085] As the compound (d), it is preferable to use a γ-keto acid, and more preferably levulinic acid and / or a salt thereof, such as sodium levulinate.

[0086] The amount of the (d) compound in the composition used in the present invention may be 0.1% by mass or more, preferably 0.5% by mass or more, more preferably 1% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0087] On the other hand, the amount of the (d) compound in the composition used in the present invention may be 15% by mass or less, preferably 10% by mass or less, and more preferably 5% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0088] The amount of the (d) compound in the composition used in the present invention may be 0.1% by mass to 15% by mass, preferably 0.5% by mass to 10% by mass, and more preferably 1% by mass to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0089] (pH) The pH of the compositions used in the present invention may be 7 or less, preferably 6 or less, more preferably 5 or less, measured at 25°C.

[0090] The pH of the compositions used in the present invention may be 3 or greater, measured at 25°C.

[0091] The pH of the composition used in the present invention may be 3 to 7, preferably 3 to 6, more preferably 3 to 5, measured at 25°C.

[0092] (Alkaline agent) The composition for straightening keratin fibers used in the present invention may contain at least one alkaline agent. Two or more alkaline agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of alkaline agent or a combination of different types of alkaline agents may be used.

[0093] The alkaline agent is different from (b) the betaine compound.

[0094] (a) If the compound can function to lower the pH of the composition, it is preferred that the composition used in the present invention include an alkaline agent.

[0095] The alkaline agent may be an inorganic alkaline agent. Preferably, the alkaline agent is non-volatile. Preferably, the inorganic alkaline agent is selected from the group consisting of alkali metal hydroxides; alkaline earth metal hydroxides; and alkali metal phosphates and monohydrogen phosphates, such as sodium phosphate or sodium monohydrogen phosphate.

[0096] Examples of inorganic alkali metal hydroxides include sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, and potassium hydroxide. Examples of alkaline earth metal hydroxides include calcium hydroxide and magnesium hydroxide. Sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide are preferred as inorganic alkaline agents.

[0097] The alkaline agent may be an organic alkaline agent, preferably selected from the group consisting of monoamines and diamines.

[0098] Examples of monoamines include alkanolamines, such as mono-, di-, and tri-ethanolamines containing one to three hydroxyalkyl (C1-C4) groups. In particular, the alkanolamine may be selected from monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, and tris(hydroxymethylamino)methane.

[0099] Diamines have the following structural formula (B):

[0100] [ka]

[0101] where W represents alkylene, such as propylene, optionally substituted with hydroxyl or a C1-C4 alkyl group; R a , R b , R c and R d represent independently a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl group), which can be exemplified by 1,3-propanediamine and its derivatives.

[0102] The amount of alkaline agent in the composition used in the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0103] On the other hand, the amount of alkaline agent in the composition used in the present invention may be 15% by mass or less, preferably 10% by mass or less, more preferably 5% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0104] The alkaline agent may be used in a total amount of 0.01% to 15% by mass, preferably 0.05% to 10% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0105] (acid) The composition for straightening keratin fibers used in the present invention may contain at least one acid different from (a) the compound or (b) the betaine compound. Two or more acids may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of acid or a combination of different types of acids may be used.

[0106] Acids may be used to adjust the pH of the compositions used in the present invention.

[0107] (a) It is preferred that compositions used in the present invention include an acid, where the compound can function to increase the pH of the composition.

[0108] The acid may be any inorganic or organic acid commonly used in cosmetics, such as citric acid, lactic acid, sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid, or hydrochloric acid (HCl), with HCl being preferred.

[0109] The amount of acid in the composition used in the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0110] On the other hand, the amount of acid in the composition used in the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, more preferably 5% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0111] The acid may be used in a total amount of 0.01% to 15% by mass, preferably 0.05% to 10% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0112] (Other optional ingredients) The composition used in the present invention may also comprise at least one other optional component, which are in particular oils in the form of a liquid at atmospheric pressure and 25°C, preferably polar oils, more preferably ester oils; solid fatty substances at atmospheric pressure and 25°C, in particular C8-C 40 Esters, C8-C 40 Acids and C8-C 40 The cosmetic ingredients may be selected from the group consisting of alcohols, thickeners, sunscreens, moisturizers, anti-dandruff agents, antioxidants, chelating agents, pearlescent and opacifying agents, plasticizers or coalescers, fillers, emulsifiers, polymers, especially conditioning polymers such as cationic polymers, fragrances, silanes, crosslinkers, and surfactants, including anionic, cationic, amphoteric, and nonionic surfactants. The composition may, of course, contain several cosmetic ingredients appearing in the above list.

[0113] The compositions used according to the invention may contain one or several cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, which may be alcohols, in particular monohydric alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, and phenylethyl alcohol; diols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, and caprylyl glycol; other polyols such as glycerol; and ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl, and monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl, and monobutyl ether, and butylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl, and monobutyl ether.

[0114] Depending on their nature and the purpose of the composition, the above optional components can be present in conventional amounts that can be easily determined by those skilled in the art and that can be between 0.01% and 80% by weight for each component. Those skilled in the art will carefully select the components to be included in the composition, as well as their amounts, so that they do not impair the properties of the composition used in the present invention.

[0115] (Ammonia and thiol compounds) The composition used in the present invention is preferably free of ammonia or thiol compounds. The term "free of ammonia or thiol compounds" means that the composition used in the present invention does not contain a substantial amount of ammonia or thiol compounds. Preferably, the composition used in the present invention contains 1% by weight or less of ammonia or thiol compounds, more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, even more preferably 0.1% by weight or less of ammonia or thiol compounds, and in particular, does not contain ammonia or thiol compounds.

[0116] The very low or no amount of ammonia and / or thiol compounds reduces or prevents malodor during use of the compositions used in the present invention.

[0117] A thiol compound, as used herein, refers to a compound having at least one thiol (—SH) group.

[0118] The thiol compound may be a reducing agent. The thiol reducing agent may be selected from the group consisting of thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, particularly its esters such as glycerol monothioglycolate or glycol monothioglycolate; thiolactic acid and its derivatives, particularly its esters such as glycerol monothiolactic acid; 3-mercaptopropionic acid and its derivatives, particularly its esters such as glycerol 3-mercaptopropionate and ethylene glycol 3-mercaptopropionate; cysteamine and its derivatives, particularly its C1-C4 acyl derivatives such as N-acetylcysteamine and N-propionylcysteamine; monothioglycerol and its derivatives, particularly esters; cysteine ​​and its derivatives, particularly esters such as N-acetylcysteine, N-alkanoylcysteine, and cysteine ​​alkyl esters; thioglycerin and its derivatives, particularly s-alkyl derivatives, and salts thereof.

[0119] Examples of the salts include ammonium salts, primary, secondary, and tertiary amine salts, alkali metal salts, and alkaline earth metal salts. Examples of the primary, secondary, and tertiary amine salts include monoethanolamine, diisopropanolamine, and triethanolamine, respectively.

[0120] Other examples of thiol reducing agents include, but are not limited to, sugar N-mercaptoalkylamides such as N-(mercapto-2-ethyl)gluconamide, β-mercaptopropionic acid, and derivatives thereof; thiomalic acid; pantetheine; N-(mercaptoalkyl)ω-hydroxyalkylamides such as those described in European Patent Application No. 0354835 and N-mono- or N,N-dialkylmercapto 4-butylamides such as those described in European Patent Application No. 0368763; aminomercaptoalkylamides such as those described in European Patent Application No. 0432000 and alkylaminomercaptoalkylamides such as those described in European Patent Application No. 0514282; (2 / 3) hydroxy-2 propyl thioglycolate; and the hydroxy-2 methyl-1 ethyl thioglycolate-based mixture (67 / 33) described in French Patent Application No. 2679448.

[0121] (reducing and oxidizing agents) The compositions used in the present invention may contain reducing agents, however, it is preferred that the compositions used in the present invention contain reduced amounts of reducing or oxidizing agents, and preferably are free of reducing or oxidizing agents.

[0122] The term "free of reducing or oxidizing agents" means that the compositions used in the present invention do not contain substantial amounts of reducing or oxidizing agents. Preferably, the compositions used in the present invention contain no more than 1% by weight of reducing or oxidizing agents, more preferably no more than 0.5% by weight, even more preferably no more than 0.1% by weight, and in particular no reducing or oxidizing agents.

[0123] The reducing agent may be a thiol reducing agent or a non-thiol reducing agent. Thiol reducing agents are those described above.

[0124] The term "non-thiol reducing agent" as used herein refers to a reducing agent that does not contain a thiol group. The non-thiol reducing agent may be selected from the group consisting of sulfites, bisulfites, sulfinates, phosphines, sugars, reductones, and hydrides. The non-thiol reducing agent may be selected from ammonium sulfite and ammonium bisulfite, and metal sulfites and bisulfites, more preferably alkali metal or alkaline earth metal sulfites and bisulfites, more preferably sodium sulfite and sodium bisulfite.

[0125] The oxidizing agent may be selected from hydrogen peroxide, alkali metal bromates, peroxide salts of ferricyanide, and compounds capable of generating hydrogen peroxide by hydrolysis. For example, the oxidizing agent may be selected from aqueous hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, and persalts such as perborates and persulfates.

[0126] (form) The compositions used according to the invention may be in any form suitable for topical application, in particular in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic, aqueous-alcoholic or oily solution or suspension; in the form of a solution or dispersion of the lotion or serum type; in the form of an emulsion of the O / W, W / O or multiple type, in particular of a liquid or semi-liquid consistency (when the compositions used according to the invention contain at least one oil); in the form of a suspension or emulsion of the cream (O / W) or (W / O) type of a soft consistency; in the form of an aqueous gel or in the form of any other cosmetic preparation.

[0127] The compositions used in the present invention may be in any herbal form, for example, in any common hair treatment form such as a cream, lotion, gel, etc.

[0128] [kit] The present invention also provides a kit for straightening keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising: at least one heater capable of providing the keratin fibers with a temperature of more than 50°C, preferably more than 100°C, more preferably more than 150°C; and (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylates, glyoxylate esters, glyoxylate amides, and mixtures thereof; (b) at least one betaine compound; (c) Water and At least one composition comprising The present invention also relates to a kit comprising:

[0129] The heater in the kit is not limited as long as it can heat keratin fibers to a temperature of more than 50° C., preferably more than 100° C., more preferably more than 150° C. This temperature may be less than 250° C., preferably less than 240° C., more preferably less than 230° C. Therefore, this temperature may be more than 50° C. and less than 250° C., preferably more than 100° C. and less than 240° C., more preferably more than 150° C. and less than 230° C.

[0130] The heater is preferably a heating iron as described above in "Method."

[0131] The composition may further comprise at least one compound selected from the group consisting of (d) keto acids, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, different from the (a) compound. The (d) compound may be selected from levulinic acid, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0132] The above descriptions regarding (a) the compound, (b) the betaine compound, and (c) water, and (d) the compound are applicable to those in the compositions used in the kits according to the present invention.

[0133] [use] The present invention also provides a method for producing a composition comprising (b) at least one betaine compound, (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylates, glyoxylate esters, glyoxylate amides, and mixtures thereof; and (c) water 1. Use in a composition for straightening keratinous fibers such as hair by heating, comprising: The present invention also relates to uses for prolonging the straightening effect of the composition on keratinous fibers, in particular for the purpose of further maintaining the straight shape of keratinous fibers or preventing or reducing wavy keratinous fibers.

[0134] The heating is not limited as long as the keratin fibers can be heated to a temperature of more than 50° C., preferably more than 100° C., more preferably more than 150° C. This temperature may be less than 250° C., preferably less than 240° C., more preferably less than 230° C. Thus, the temperature may be more than 50° C. and less than 250° C., preferably more than 100° C. and less than 240° C., more preferably more than 150° C. and less than 230° C.

[0135] (b) The use of at least one betaine compound can prolong or sustain the straightening effect on keratin fibers provided by the (a) compound.

[0136] The composition may further comprise at least one compound selected from the group consisting of (d) keto acids, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, different from the (a) compound. The (d) compound may be selected from levulinic acid, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0137] The above descriptions of (a) compound, (b) betaine compound, and (c) water, and (d) compound are applicable to those in the compositions used in accordance with the present invention.

[0138] [Additional Inventions] The object of the present invention is also to provide a method for straightening keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising the steps of: (i) applying a composition onto keratinous fibers; (ii) optionally rinsing the keratinous fibers, with or without drying the keratinous fibers after rinsing; (iii) straightening the keratin fibers at a temperature above 50°C, preferably above 100°C, more preferably above 150°C; wherein the composition comprises: (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylates, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides, and mixtures thereof, in an amount greater than 5% by weight, preferably greater than 6% by weight, and more preferably greater than 7% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition; (c) water; (d) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of keto acids (particularly levulinic acid), salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, which is different from the compound (a), in an amount of 0.1% by mass to 15% by mass, preferably 0.5% by mass to 10% by mass, more preferably 1% by mass to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition; It may also be realized by a method including:

[0139] The above descriptions regarding (a) compound, (c) water, and (d) compound for the composition used in the method according to the invention are applicable to the composition used in the method.

[0140] The composition does not need to include (b) at least one betaine compound.

[0141] The method can also have the following effects: (1) the keratinous fibers treated with the method can be provided with a soft feeling, a moisturized feeling, and elasticity; (2) the keratinous fibers treated with the method can be easily managed; (3) the method can prevent the keratinous fibers from returning to their original shape before the method was performed, even after washing; and / or (4) the keratinous fibers treated with the method can maintain the resulting straight shape even under wet conditions. [Example]

[0142] The present invention will now be described in more detail by way of examples, which should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.

[0143] (Examples 1 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5) [Preparation] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 was prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 1. The numerical values ​​for the amounts of the components are all based on "mass %" of the raw materials.

[0144] [Table 1]

[0145] [evaluation] Each of the above compositions was used to straighten hair swatches, which were then evaluated according to the following protocol.

[0146] 1) A Chinese black, natural-colored, slightly wavy hair swatch (27 cm long) was washed with the SLS shampoo composition shown in Table 2 below. The hair swatch was thoroughly rinsed with tap water.

[0147] [Table 2]

[0148] 2) Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 was applied in an amount of 2 g onto a wet hair swatch. 3) The hair sample was left to stand at room temperature (25°C) for 10 minutes. 4) The hair swatches were rinsed thoroughly with tap water. 5) The hair sample was dried with a hair dryer (Nobby NB3100, Tescom Denki Co., Ltd., Japan) for approximately 90 seconds until dry. 6) The hair swatches were subjected to straightening with a hair straightening iron (ADST Premium DS2, Hakko Electric Co., Ltd., Japan) at 180°C, 4 seconds / stroke, 3 strokes. 7) Immediately after step 6, the hair sample was visually evaluated for straightening level under the following criteria (straightening effect at TO): 5: Very good 4: Good 3: Normal 2: Bad 1: Extremely poor The results are shown in Table 1 under "Hair straightening effect (T0)." 8) Immediately after step 6, a photograph was taken of the hair swatch and the area (in pixels) of the hair swatch was determined using the open source public domain software Image J. The results are shown in Table 1 under "Area (T0)". 9) The hair swatches were washed again with the SLS shampoo composition shown in Table 2, rinsed thoroughly with tap water, and dried with a hair dryer (approximately 90 seconds until dry). 10) The level of straightening and area of ​​the hair swatches were evaluated again as described above (T1sh). The results are shown in Table 1 under "Hair Straightening Effect (T1sh)" and "Area (T1sh)".

[0149] The evaluation results in Table 1 show that the use of a combination of glyoxylic acid and a betaine compound can further maintain the straight shape of hair or suppress an increase in hair volume, which reflects non-straightening or wavy hair, compared to the use of glyoxylic acid alone.

[0150] In particular, it should be noted that the use of glyoxylic acid can straighten hair, and the use of a betaine compound in combination with glyoxylic acid can prevent or reduce hair from becoming unstraight or wavy. In other words, the betaine compound can contribute to further maintaining the straight shape of hair brought about by glyoxylic acid, and can prevent hair from becoming wavy or from returning to its original shape if the original shape of hair is wavy.

[0151] (Example 7 and Comparative Example 6) [Preparation] Each of the compositions according to Example 7 and Comparative Example 6 was prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 3. The numerical values ​​for the amounts of the components are all based on "mass %" of the raw materials.

[0152] [Table 3]

[0153] [evaluation] The above composition was used to straighten the hair swatches, which were then evaluated according to the following protocol. 1) A Chinese hair swatch of slightly wavy black natural hair (27 cm long) was washed with the SLS shampoo composition shown in Table 2. The hair swatch was thoroughly rinsed with tap water. 2) Each of the compositions according to Example 7 and Comparative Example 6 was applied in an amount of 1 g onto a wet hair swatch. 3) The hair sample was left to stand at room temperature (25°C) for 10 minutes. 4) The hair swatches were rinsed thoroughly with tap water. 5) The hair sample was dried with a hair dryer (Nobby NB3100, Tescom Denki Co., Ltd., Japan) for approximately 90 seconds until dry. 6) The hair swatches were subjected to straightening with a hair straightening iron (ADST Premium DS2, Hakko Electric Co., Ltd., Japan) at 180°C, 4 seconds / stroke, 3 strokes. 7) Immediately after step 6, the hair sample was visually evaluated for straightening level under the following criteria (straightening effect at TO): 5: Very good 4: Good 3: Normal 2: Bad 1: Extremely poor The results are shown in Table 3 under "Hair straightening effect (T0)." 8) Immediately after step 6, a photograph was taken of the hair swatch and the area (in pixels) of the hair swatch was determined using the open source public domain software Image J. The results are shown in Table 3 under "Area (T0)". 9) The hair swatches were washed again with the SLS shampoo composition shown in Table 2, rinsed thoroughly with tap water, and dried with a hair dryer (approximately 90 seconds until dry). 10) The level of straightening and area of ​​the hair swatches were evaluated again as described above (T1sh). The results are shown in Table 3 under "Hair Straightening Effect (T1sh)" and "Area (T1sh)".

[0154] The evaluation results in Table 3 also show that the combination of glyoxylic acid and a betaine compound can further maintain the straight shape of hair or suppress an increase in hair volume, which reflects the non-straightening or wavy nature of hair, compared to the use of glyoxylic acid alone.

[0155] It is therefore clear that the present invention can work not only with relatively simple aqueous solutions (Examples 1-6), but also with emulsion-type formulations (Example 7) that may be closer to commercial hair conditioners.

Claims

1. 1. A method for straightening keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising: (i) applying a composition onto the keratinous fibers; (ii) optionally rinsing the keratinous fibers, with or without drying the keratinous fibers after rinsing; (iii) straightening the keratin fibers at a temperature above 50°C, preferably above 100°C, more preferably above 150°C; wherein the composition comprises: (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylates, glyoxylate esters, glyoxylate amides, and mixtures thereof; (b) at least one betaine compound; (c) Water and A method comprising:

2. The method of claim 1 , wherein the composition is applied onto wet keratinous fibers.

3. 3. The method of claim 1 or 2, wherein the pH of the composition is 7 or less, preferably 6 or less, more preferably 5 or less.

4. 4. The method according to claim 1, wherein the amount of the (a) compound in the composition is 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 40% by weight, more preferably 1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. 5. The method of claim 1, wherein the (b) betaine compound is selected from the group consisting of trimethylglycine, carnitine, and L-proline betaine or stachydrine, and mixtures thereof.

6. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the amount of the (b) betaine compound in the composition is 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the amount of (c) water in the composition is 20% by mass to 99% by mass, preferably 30% by mass to 95% by mass, and more preferably 40% by mass to 90% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

8. 8. The method of claim 1, wherein the composition further comprises (d) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of keto acids, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, that is different from the (a) compound.

9. 9. The method of claim 8, wherein the (d) compound is selected from levulinic acid, its salts, and mixtures thereof.

10. 10. The method according to claim 8 or 9, wherein the amount of the (d) compound in the composition is 0.1% by weight to 15% by weight, preferably 0.5% by weight to 10% by weight, and more preferably 1% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. 11. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the composition does not contain any ammonia or thiol compounds or contains less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, of ammonia or thiol compounds relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. 12. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein the composition does not contain any reducing or oxidizing agent or contains less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, of reducing or oxidizing agent relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. A composition for straightening keratin fibers such as hair by heating, comprising: (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylates, glyoxylate esters, glyoxylate amides, and mixtures thereof; (b) at least one betaine compound; (c) Water and A composition comprising:

14. A kit for straightening keratin fibers such as hair, comprising: at least one heater, preferably a heating iron, capable of bringing a temperature of more than 50°C, preferably more than 100°C, more preferably more than 150°C, to said keratinous fibers; (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylates, glyoxylate esters, glyoxylate amides, and mixtures thereof; (b) at least one betaine compound; (c) Water and At least one composition comprising Includes a kit.

15. (b) at least one betaine compound; (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylates, glyoxylate esters, glyoxylate amides, and mixtures thereof; (c) Water and 1. Use in a composition for straightening keratinous fibers such as hair by heating, comprising: Use for the purpose of prolonging the straightening effect of the composition on the keratinous fibers, in particular for the purpose of further maintaining the straight shape of the keratinous fibers or preventing or reducing wavy formation of the keratinous fibers.

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